no murder, just magic: a journey aboard the orient express

I was slightly disappointed that there wasn't a murder.

After all, when you board the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, it's almost impossible not to picture Hercule Poirot wandering the corridors in search of a killer. And the scene was almost too perfect: an impossibly glamorous train, a cast of intriguing strangers and, as it happened, familiar faces from The Walking Dead and Troy. If Agatha Christie had been assembling a list of suspects, she'd have been spoiled for choice.

Alas, there was no murder to solve.

Instead, my 26-hour passage from Venice to Paris delivered nothing more sinister than impeccable service, extraordinary food and scenery that shifted from the lakes of northern Italy, through the Swiss Alps and into the French countryside. The biggest crime committed on board was how quickly the experience came to an end.

I was incredibly lucky to enjoy Belmond's legendary train as the guest of a travel journalist friend. It is one of those experiences that many people only ever dream about, and from the moment I stepped aboard in Venice, it felt as though I had returned to the golden age of rail travel.

The journey ended in Paris, but the adventure began in Venice...

VENICE

TRANSIT:

Venice is unlike almost any other city in the world. Even getting from the airport to your hotel is a unique endeavor.

Whether you opt for the budget-friendly Alilaguna water bus (my choice), a speedy private water taxi, or the more economical bus/Vaporetto combo, your first glimpse of the floating city is unforgettable.

After exiting customs, I followed the clearly marked “Water Transport” signs at the airport, where I purchased my one-way ticket (€18) from the Alilaguna kiosk. I then joined the queue for the Orange Line.

I alighted at Madonna dell'Orto, the first and closest stop to my hotel. From there, it was a sweaty 12-minute walk up, over and down the Venetian bridges, navigating cobblestone streets and narrow passageways with my luggage in tow.

ACCOMMODATION:

As if traveling on the Orient Express wasn't enough, I was fortunate to spend the night before at Orient Express Venezia. Opening its doors on 1st April 2026, after an eight-year restoration, the hotel occupies a magnificent 15th-century aristocratic residence, blending centuries of history with contemporary luxury.

Although the hotel and the train share a name, they are separate brands. The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is operated by Belmond, while Orient Express Venezia is part of the newly revived Orient Express hotel brand from Accor.

DINING:

I had fewer than 24 hours in Venice, so this isn't an exhaustive food guide, but there were two places that made my brief stay memorable - one wonderfully traditional, the other unapologetically sumptuous.

Taverna al Remer - Just a short walk from the Rialto Bridge, this taverna feels like one of those places you almost don't want to tell anyone about. Hidden away in a quiet courtyard, it's refreshingly free from the crowds that dominate much of central Venice. Rustic and authentic, it's a great place to enjoy cicchetti (Venice's answer to Spanish tapas) and a spritz.

La Casati - Located within Orient Express Venezia, La Casati is the culinary vision of three-Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck, whose philosophy centers around exceptional Italian ingredients and elegant simplicity. Every dish was beautifully considered, and the service was as polished as you'd expect from one of Venice's newest luxury hotels.

The highlight, however, wasn't just the food. We were fortunate enough to meet Chef Heinz Beck himself, who was incredibly warm, generous with his time and genuinely passionate about what he and his team are creating.

BELMOND VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS

At 9:50am, my friend and I were collected from our hotel by private water taxi. As we cruised up the Grand Canal, we had our last views of the Floating City before our adventure truly began.

We were dropped off at Venice Santa Lucia station, where passengers gathered patiently on the platform, cameras in hand, waiting for the blue-and-gold silhouette to appear.

And then, it did.

There was something undeniably magical about seeing the train for the first time. The gleaming Art Deco carriages, polished brass details and iconic livery somehow managed to exceed even the highest expectations.

We were welcomed aboard by the impeccably dressed crew, who greeted us as though we were returning old friends rather than first-time guests. We were escorted through the beautifully restored carriages to our suite (Le Lac) in cabin B, where bite-sized snacks and a server waiting to serve chilled champagne were already waiting.

The cork had barely popped before the train gently eased away from the platform.

Our first stop was the legendary Bar Car. With its polished wood paneling, heavy velvet drapery and decadent cinematic noir atmosphere, it was the social heart of the train. The saxophonist provided the soundtrack, whilst guests whispered secrets over martinis as Venice disappeared behind us.

Before long, it was time for our first dining experience. We opted for the earlier noon lunch seating so we could watch Italy drift past the windows while we ate.

The afternoon elapsed in the most delightful way possible. There was no itinerary to follow and no sightseeing to tick off, just the gentle rhythm of the train, spectacular scenery and great conversations with fascinating fellow passengers.

As evening approached, it was time to return to our suite and embrace one of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express's most cherished traditions: dressing for dinner. The Dyson hairdryer in our cabin was a particularly welcomed treat.

By 7pm (the first of the two dinner options), the train had transformed. Black tie, elegant gowns and sparkling jewelry filled the aisles. Dinner was every bit as glamorous as you'd imagine, with beautifully presented dishes, lots of caviar and free-flowing Veuve Clicquot.

Of course, the night didn't end there.

Back in the Bar Car, bartenders mixed negronis, martinis, spritzes and whisky sours while the resident pianist took requests on the baby grand. Guests danced, laughed and swapped stories well into the early hours. Nobody seemed to care what time it was, which was good, because we ended up being there until 4am. Even the staff had gone to bed.

Although there was no mysterious murder to solve and no Poirot-style drama unfolding in the carriages, the reality was even better.

This trip was never about getting from Venice to Paris; it was about everything that happened in between. The beautifully restored carriages, the extraordinary attention to detail, the friendships formed over dinner and drinks and the rare chance to slow down and celebrate the elegance, romance and the simple joy of the journey itself.

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat! Although next time, I’d add a few more nights in Venice beforehand, choose a longer route, and perhaps pack a detective novel in my suitcase…just in case.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

• Orient Express Dress Code: 'In keeping with the spirit of the occasion, you can never be overdressed on board‘. Jeans, shorts and trainers are not permitted outside the privacy of your cabin.

• Passport: Staff will collect your passport when you board in Venice and return it just before arrival in Paris.

• Luggage: At check-in, you will need to hand over your larger pieces of luggage, which will be stored for you and returned when you arrive in Paris. Each passenger is permitted one carry-on bag/suitcase and one garment bag, which will be delivered directly to your cabin. In fact, your porter will manage your luggage throughout the entire journey, from collection at your hotel in Venice to helping you into a taxi in Paris (thank you, Nikolay!).

• Cabins: There are three suite cabins and three grand suites, with many of accommodations consisting of standard cabins. Occasionally, an additional carriage called L'Observatoire is added, but it was not part of my train.

• Facilities: In each standard cabin, you will find a basin and a vanity unit. There are no showers nor toilets in the cabin; instead, each carriage has shared bathrooms. The suites and grand suites have private toilets and showers.

• Meals: There are set menus for each meal, but you can order off-menu or additional drinks for an extra cost. The team is attentive to allergies and dietary restrictions, which should be disclosed at time of booking.

• Swag: Our cabin came with a selection of elegant keepsakes. We were each gifted a kimono and a beautifully crafted vanity case made from fabrics preserved during one of the train's restorations. There were also luxurious toiletries, as well as VSOE-branded stationery, pens, postcards and playing cards for us to take home as souvenirs.

• Security: Increased security measures have been introduced in response to pickpocketing around the train's arrival and departure points. Guests are advised to remain mindful of their belongings, be cautious of anyone offering assistance who is not clearly identifiable as a member of the staff and keep valuables close at hand.