ongoing guide to paris

Living just two hours from Paris means it has become less of a destination and more of a habit. I've visited so many times that I've lost count - for long weekends, day trips, celebrations and, occasionally, simply because the Eurostar was calling.

Which makes it all the stranger that I've never written about it.

Perhaps it's because Paris resists being neatly packaged into a list of "must-sees". Every visit unfolds a little differently. Sometimes it's centered around a remarkable meal, other times an afternoon spent wandering Saint-Germain, meandering around Luxembourg Gardens or discovering a wine bar I immediately know I'll return to.

After my latest visit, I decided it was finally time to put together this guide. Rather than a definitive itinerary, it's more of an evolving collection of places I genuinely recommend – the restaurants worth booking, the neighborhoods I choose to stay in and the experiences that, no matter how many times I visit, never seem to lose their magic.

STAY:

I recommend staying in one of two areas: the Latin Quarter or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Both are located on Paris’s Left Bank and are wonderfully placed for exploring the city. The two neighborhoods sit alongside each other and often blend together.

For a lively, local atmosphere with excellent food, charming streets and a slightly more bohemian feel, the Latin Quarter is a fantastic choice. With its historic buildings, bookshops and student energy, it feels quintessentially Parisian.

For something a little more refined, Saint-Germain offers elegant boutiques, art galleries, beautiful cafés and some of the city’s most iconic restaurants. It has a more sophisticated atmosphere while still retaining plenty of old-world charm.

DO:

• Moulin Rouge - No first visit to Paris is complete without experiencing the city’s most famous cabaret. The Moulin Rouge remains an iconic institution, with elaborate costumes, music and the unmistakable atmosphere of Montmartre.

  

• Caveau de la Huchette - For a truly memorable night, head underground to this legendary jazz club. Hidden in a medieval cellar in the Latin Quarter, it has been hosting live jazz since the 1940s and feels like stepping back in time. They do not take bookings so show up early to queue.

• Le Speakeasy Paris - A stylish late-night option for cocktails and live jazz, perfect for when you want to continue the evening.

  

• Seine Boat Trip - While it may sound touristy, there is no better way to appreciate Paris' grand architecture than from the water. The views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame and the historic bridges are hard to beat.

• Jardin du Luxembourg - Created in the 17th century for the Luxembourg Palace, these gardens combine manicured French elegance with a more relaxed Parisian charm.

  

EAT/DRINK:

• Riviera Fuga - Fancy lunch on a boat, overlooking Paris, from the Seine? This is a great choice when you want something a little different from a traditional restaurant.

• Pain Vin Fromages - A cosy spot dedicated to classic French comfort food. Perfect for a chilly evening when only bread, wine and cheese fondue will do.

  

• Café Pierre Hermé - Because no Paris trip is complete without macarons. Pierre Hermé is one of the city’s legendary pastry names and a must for anyone with a sweet tooth.

• Brasserie de Prés - A stylish modern brasserie offering a contemporary take on French dining, with a focus on quality ingredients and a beautiful setting.

• Chez Janou - There are plenty of reasons to visit, but let's be honest, you're here for the chocolate mousse. Served tableside from an enormous bowl, it's wonderfully rich, gloriously excessive and quite possibly the mousse by which all others should be judged.

• Maison Revka - A glamorous Slavic restaurant with a beautiful interior and a slightly more luxurious atmosphere.

• Restaurant Dandelion - It's worth the trip to the outskirts of the city for this for the excellent food in a relaxed setting.

  

• Le Jardin de Verre by Locke - A beautiful terrace for drinks when you want to slow down and enjoy the Parisian atmosphere.

  

  Bouillon - For classic French food, seek out one of Paris’s historic Bouillons. These bustling restaurants serve favourites such as steak frites, onion soup and escargots at surprisingly reasonable prices.