porto revisited

I had the good fortune of ringing in 2018 in Porto. The city was alive with energy and charm then and still is now. Returning felt like revisiting an old friend - familiar, nostalgic and an opportunity to rediscover a connection.

Free from the pressure to see/do everything, this time I wandered further and dug a little deeper. Read on for recommendations on how to spend the perfect long weekend in this beautiful city.

ACCOMODATION:

I highly recommend staying at Hospes Infante Sagres, Porto's first five-star hotel (when it opened in 1951). In 2024, extensive refurbishments modernized the hotel's elegance and comfort whilst preserving its historical charm. It's located just steps from some of Porto’s most iconic attractions yet tucked away enough to feel like a peaceful retreat. Don’t miss the plunge pool area on the rooftop, perfect for cooling off or catching some rays on a hot day.

TOURS:

Guided tours are a great way to explore Porto’s beauty, soak up its culture and experience its welcoming atmosphere. Here are some tours to consider:

Get your bearings and learn the lay of the land with a private walking tour. André led us around Porto’s UNESCO-listed historic center, from Clerigos Tower to Ribeira. He pointed out various landmarks and regaled us with stories and interesting anecdotes behind every tiled facade.

Get out on the water with a Douro River Boat Cruise. This is a peaceful way to take in the city's architecture from a different perspective. Our cruise was intended to have seven people, but three no-shows meant we had the boat all to ourselves. Our guides, Ines and Antonio, were wonderful, hospitable and knowledgeable.

For wine lovers, no trip to Porto is complete without tasting its namesake export. Be sure to make time for a full-day tour and tasting in the Douro Valley. 

CONSUME:

Porto’s culinary scene is a delicious blend of hearty tradition and fresh innovation. Whether you’re craving classic dishes or modern twists, these spots should be on your list:

Brunch:

Dubbed by the press as 'the God of the brunch', Zenith is an all day, everyday brunch spot. Its menu is diverse and creative with a mix of sweet and savory dishes like Oreo pancakes, French toast, eggs Benedict, Brazilian açaí and shakshuka. The portion sizes are generous and pair well with their delicious signature cocktails.

Lunch:

If you’re in the mood for some of the Atlantic’s bounty, Armazém do Peixe is an excellent choice. It's only about a three-minute walk to the marina, so it's an ideal option for lunch pre-boat ride. Also, they'll let you take bottles of wine to go, to bring with you on your cruise.

For a taste of traditional Porto, we were directed to Cerca Velha to try their authentic Bifana sandwich (marinated pork slices with a flavorful sauce on a soft roll). While the sandwich absolutely delivered on flavor, the service left a bit to be desired. So we wandered across Largo da Pena Ventosa and ended up at Conte D’rei. The steak sandwich was insane, the cheeseboard was perfectly curated, the wine was cold and the service was genuinely friendly. It turned into one of our favorite lunch spots in the city. Highly recommend!

Dinner:

Cozinha das Flores is an absolute must. Helmed by acclaimed Chef Nuno Mendes (a friend of a friend), this restaurant celebrates northern Portuguese ingredients through inventive, open-fire cooking. The open kitchen adds an intimate, behind-the-scenes vibe, while the menu blends tradition with playful, contemporary twists. Every dish was stunning and mouth-watering.

Drinks:

Royal Cocktail Club is on the 50 Best list for a reason. It is a must for cocktail lovers. I was impressed by the creativity and presentation. Each drink is a work of art.

Porto is the perfect place for a long weekend escape. In just a few days, you can stroll along the Douro River, sip world-class wine, admire tiled buildings and indulge in unforgettable food. Compact yet bursting with charm, Porto invites you to slow down and savor every moment.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

• Reservations: Porto has some truly excellent eateries, including over a dozen places listed in the Michelin guide. If you plan to enjoy a meal at one of the city’s celebrated restaurants, reserve several weeks in advance.

• Footwear: The hills and uneven pavement in Porto are sure to give your legs a workout. If you don't want to twist an ankle, leave the heels at home and make sure you bring good walking shoes.

• Weather: While on the cold Atlantic, Porto has a Mediterranean-like climate, with warm, dry summers and cooler, wetter winters. Bring layers, as the temperature can vary considerably.

• Tipping: Locals don’t tip at all or simply round up when paying for a meal or a taxi. In more tourist-oriented establishments a 10% tip is common though and may even be pre-added as a service charge. It is not expected to tip in cafés nor bars. However, if you’re in a high-end place, you should plan on leaving an additional €1–2 per specialty drink.