from tagliatelle to a tiny republic - a weekend in bologna and san marino

Tucked away in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Bologna is a city made for slow wandering and enthusiastic eating. Its terracotta porticos stretch endlessly, sheltering bustling markets and the promise of fresh tagliatelle at every corner. Every street smells like dinner.

Just when you’ve settled into the rhythm of pasta, piazzas and aperitivos, a short train-and-bus journey takes you somewhere entirely different. In just a few hours, Bologna’s bustle gives way to sweeping views, steep streets and a maze of staircases in San Marino (the world’s fifth smallest country).

A weekend might not sound like enough time to explore both a city and a country, but Bologna and San Marino make it surprisingly doable. From unforgettable meals in Bologna to panoramic viewpoints in San Marino, here are the bites, spots and experiences that made this two-country escape so worthwhile.

BOLOGNA, ITALY

ACCOMMODATION:

As I was travelling solo, I opted for an Airbnb rather than a hotel. I chose a unique loft that was once the music room of a palace. The space felt grand, with ceiling frescoes that made it easy to imagine life during the Italian Renaissance.

The flat was conveniently located between the train station and Bologna’s historic centre. It was more beautiful than functional, but it worked perfectly for a short stay.

If you prefer a hotel experience, the Grand Hotel Majestic is worth considering for its central location and classic elegance.

DO:

• Garisenda Tower is Bologna’s famous leaning tower. It was once open to visitors but is currently closed for restoration due to its increasingly precarious tilt.

  

• Just off Piazza del Nettuno, you’ll find Biblioteca Salaborsa. Look through the transparent floor in the main hall to spot Roman ruins below, then head down to level -1 to walk through the archaeological site itself.

  

  

• When in Italy, a gelato making class feels essential. At La Soffritta cooking school, I spent two hours learning the fundamentals - from selecting quality ingredients to mixing, churning and freezing. The blood orange flavor was a standout surprise.

  

CONSUME:

• For a relaxed, no-frills lunch, Bodega Zapap offers an inexpensive, yet delicious, pizza and wine that hits the spot.

  

• Book ahead for Vicolo Colombina, a Michelin-listed restaurant known for its traditional Emilian cuisine. My tagliatelle al ragù, paired with a half bottle of Lambrusco, came to just €44, including bread, water and tip.

• Still craving bolognese on my second night, I headed to Trattoria Osteria Buca Manzoni for another plate of tagliatelle al ragù and a glass of house red.

  

SAN MARINO

GETING THERE:

This landlocked microstate, surrounded by Italy, is the third smallest country in Europe. Despite its size, getting there requires a bit of planning as there’s no train station nor airport, so access is by car or bus only.

I took a direct train from Bologna Centrale to Rimini (about 1 hour and 10 minutes). From there, it’s a short walk across the road to catch the Bonelli Bus, located in front of Hotel Napoleon. With just 10 minutes between connections, the transfer was tight but manageable.

The bus ride to the Centro Storico Capolinea (the final stop) took about an hour. Booking both legs in advance made the journey smooth and stress-free.

DO:

• From the bus stop, it’s about a 15-minute uphill walk to Guaita, the first of San Marino’s three iconic towers. After exploring the fortress and climbing the tower, I followed the scenic Passo delle Streghe (Witches’ Path) to the second tower, Cesta. It was about a 5–10 minute walk with incredible views.

  

• Unless you’re particularly interested in weapons and armor, 20 minutes per tower is plenty. I skipped the third tower as it’s not open to the public. Entry to the first two towers and several museums cost €11, while the path between them is free.

  

• San Marino’s shopping scene is unlike anywhere else. Its cobbled streets are lined with medieval-themed shops selling everything from armor and swords to traditional souvenirs. The country’s relatively liberal weapons laws make this an unexpectedly prominent feature of the experience.

  

CONSUME:

• For lunch, I chose Ritrovo dei Lavoratori XXVIII Luglio. Arriving right at opening (noon) meant immediate seating, but by 2pm the place was completely full. San Marino is known for its love of truffles, so I ordered the truffle ravioli, which was a rich and fitting choice for the setting.

  

  

  

Bologna and San Marino make for an unexpectedly perfect pairing: one grounded in rich culinary tradition, the other perched dramatically above it all, offering a completely different perspective - both literally and figuratively.

It’s a journey that balances indulgence with adventure, and history with simplicity. And perhaps that’s the real takeaway: sometimes the best trips aren’t about going far, but about experiencing something entirely different just a few hours away.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

• Bologna Airport (BLQ): The new EU Entry/Exit System (EES) is being rolled out. During my visit, this meant going through multiple biometric checks and a passport stamp. Expect some teething issues for now.

• Bologna Taxis: Uber isn’t widely used, so taxis are the easiest option. A 15-minute journey to/from the airport cost just under €25, and cards are accepted.

• San Marino Border Control: Despite being a separate country, there is no passport check when entering.

• San Marino Terrain: San Marino is built on a mountain, with steep streets and plenty of stairs. Comfortable shoes and light layers to easily shed are essential.

• San Marino Timings: One day is more than enough. I spent about six and a half hours there but could have comfortably seen everything in around four.

• Connectivity: Both mobile signal and Wi-Fi were patchy in restaurants in Bologna and everywhere in San Marino.

• Tipping: Not expected but appreciated. A small cover charge (€1–€3 per person) is standard for bread and table settings.

• Currency: The Euro is used in both Italy and San Marino.