yuletide at the bottom of the world

Sherry Brecher
18 hours ago
11 min read

My polar expedition took me to a place where time felt suspended and the sun almost never set. A frozen, mobile dead zone so quiet that the only sounds were penguins sneezing, the thunderous crack of calving icebergs and the breathy exhales of surfacing whales.

It’s a land so remote that fewer than a fraction of a percent of the world’s population will ever stand upon it. A place where the landscape feels utterly untouched by time and unspoiled by humans.

Celebrating Christmas at Earth’s final frontier, surrounded by endless white horizons on my seventh continent, was more than a holiday. It was a once-in-a-lifetime immersion into one of the rawest, most extraordinary places I’ve ever been.

That sense of isolation was interrupted only by the reality of ship life. Over 1,550 nautical miles, our vessel carried 113 passengers and 72 crew members, including a group from Flash Pack and 18 Ukrainians traveling with Bodo Travel. In total, 16 nationalities were represented, creating a young, lively crowd that set a fun, energetic tone from the very start.

Below is a play-by-play of my time in this frozen wonderland...

18th December 2025 - Embarkation

Our luggage was collected, by Poseidon, from our room at the Arakur Hotel, promptly at 8:00am. After breakfast at the hotel, we checked out at 10:00am. With time to spare before boarding the ship in the afternoon, we took the shuttle into town, ran a few errands, bought a few last minute necessities and enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch at Isabel.

At around 4:00pm, we boarded the Sea Spirit. At check-in, we handed our passports over to reception, where they were held for the duration of the trip. Then we made our way to our triple suite (#347) to unpack and settle in.

The afternoon unfolded with drinks and snacks, followed by a welcome meeting with our Expedition Leader, Chris Bruttel. Shortly after, we attended a safety briefing and completed the mandatory lifeboat drill - the official start to our Antarctic adventure.

Following dinner, we received our Poseidon expedition parkas and muck boots. My boots had been a point of contention in the lead-up to trip due to sizing issues. After months of back-and-forth, they had to be specially ordered from Canada and only arrived on the day we embarked. This whole ordeal ultimately resulted in a $150 onboard credit in my name.

That night, as we slept, the ship quietly carried us through the Beagle Channel and into the Drake Passage.

19th December 2025 - Day at Sea

We were jolted awake at 8:00am by a blaring, aggressive song and a morning announcement from Chris. The day was spent eating, reviewing environmental and safety procedures, bio-cleaning our gear, birdwatching and enjoying the unusually tranquil seas.

That evening, after enjoying ice cream and a welcome cocktail with the captain and expedition team, we were treated to the first sunset of the trip, casting its golden light at 10:40pm.

20th December 2025 - First Landing

Blessed with unusually calm waters in the Drake Passage (Drake Lake), we navigated it in just a day and a half. That smooth crossing earned us an unexpected bonus - an extra landing, ahead of schedule.

Today was the day we’d step off the boat and have an adventure! Penguins swimming and porpoising around us like tiny dolphins were our first sign that Antarctica was close.

Our first landfall was on Half Moon Island, located in the South Shetland Islands. Despite the snowy and windy conditions, we were thrilled to see chinstrap and gentoo penguins, and even one lost Adélie penguin wandering amongst them. The little waddlers were tending to their chicks and courting each other, offering pebbles to their mates. They were loud, a little stinky, delightfully clumsy and absolutely hilarious. I was smitten!

21st December 2025 - Summer Solstice

The morning was spent cruising around Spert Island (another of the South Shetland Islands) in a zodiac. The towering icebergs around us were utterly breathtaking.

Between excursions, we were entertained by humpback whales circling the ship.

Later that day, we visited Palaver Point, a famous, rocky headland on the west side of Two Hummock Island, located within the Palmer Archipelago of the South Shetland Islands. True to its name, the penguins were delightfully chaotic. Many were nesting, sitting on eggs and honking like confused donkeys.

On the longest day of the year, we had a third landing of the day, but our first on the actual Antarctic continent, at Portal Point. With little wildlife in sight, we were free to play in the snow and have a bit of fun. The sun set around 12:40am and, in true polar fashion, rose again just a couple of hours later.

22nd December 2025

Our early start took us on Danco, a mile-long island tucked into the southern Errera Channel. In one extraordinary stretch of time, Antarctica put on a full performance - fornicating gentoo penguins, sculpted icebergs, the crack and roar of an avalanche, passing whales and a lone leopard seal sunning itself atop an iceberg.

It was here, too, that I captured my favorite video of the trip.

Later, in Paradise Harbor, a pod of roughly twenty killer whales closed in on our ship, playing and socializing in the icy stillness. The captain even rerouted our course so we could linger with the orcas. It was a rare sighting that I won’t soon forget.

For our second continental landing, we stepped ashore at Brown Station, an Argentine research base that now operates during the summer only.

The day was so warm and sunny that we shed our gloves and outer layers.

As we headed back to the ship by zodiac, my dad snapped this beautiful photo of our vessel surrounded by icebergs. If you look closely, you can even spot a little whale tail to the right of the ship.

Tonight was when the ice campers slept rough in Leith Cove. I took a different approach, staying dry and warm in the ship’s bar, drinking far too much for far too long, lulled by the endless daylight and the absence of any real signal to call it a night.

23rd December 2025

With no early wake-up call, we enjoyed a slow morning. I skipped breakfast and used the time to sleep off some of the night before.

When I finally awoke, I was thrilled to step out onto the deck and watch as we passed through the Lemaire Channel. This renowned 11-kilometer strait in Antarctica, nestled between the Kyiv Peninsula and Booth Island, is often called 'Kodak Gap' or 'Kodak Alley' for its breathtaking beauty. Soaring, snow-covered cliffs rose on either side and dense, picturesque fields of ice floated across the still, mirror-like water, making reflections a photographer’s dream. The channel is known to become blocked with sea ice, sometimes making passage impossible, but luck was on our side.

After cruising through the Channel, we landed on Yalour Island, where a parade of adorable Adélie penguins were hard at work nesting and having an absolute blast belly-sliding across the snow. Watching them tumble, waddle and skitter around was endlessly entertaining.

With only 60 guests allowed on the island at a time, the rest of us set out on zodiac tours, which were just as thrilling. We weaved between icebergs that seemed to take on all sorts of shapes, dodged playful seals lounging on the floes and watched penguins dart and dive through the water. Every turn brought a new scene that never grew old.

For dinner, it was warm and dry enough for us to enjoy a BBQ on Deck 5 aft. It was one of the most spectacular dining views I’ve ever experienced, with whales and icebergs all around.

24th December 2025 - Christmas Eve

Christmas Eve looked a little different this year. It kicked off at Vernadsky Station, a Ukrainian research base, where we toured the facilities, mailed postcards to our loved ones from the edge of the world and toasted the season with a free shot of homemade vodka at the world’s southernmost pub - Antarctica style!

Our second stop of the day was at the neighboring Wordie House, named after Scottish polar explorer James Wordie, who served as chief scientist and geologist on Shackleton’s 1914–1917 Endurance expedition. The base was in use until 1954, when operations moved to Vernadsky. Preserved with hundreds of original artifacts (lamps, bunks, equipment, food cans, artwork, etc.), it offered a fascinating glimpse into the harsh realities of early Antarctic life.

Later, at Port Charcot, a small bay at the northern end of Booth Island, we got up close to playful seals and spotted rare 'headless' and flying penguins.

That night, a ship record was broken when 79 people voluntarily jumped into the 3°C water, all to say they’d taken part in the Polar Plunge. Human participants ranged in age from 10 to 73 - but I’m not sure how old the curious whale was that joined the party. By the end, peer pressure had even convinced the expedition leader, Chris, and his wife, Fabi, to dive in.

Hot mulled wine raised all the plungers' core temperature as we cruised back through the Lemaire Channel, signaling the start of our return to Argentina. The festive drinks continued well into the wee hours of Christmas.

25th December 2025 - Christmas Day

The news on Christmas morning wasn’t great. It felt impossible that our run of good luck could end, but Antarctica reminded us of who was in charge. The captain decided to depart about 12 hours earlier than anticipated, to avoid a storm that threatened to make the Drake Passage unnavigable. This meant our final zodiac ride was canceled and we faced a rocky day at sea (~3.5-meter waves). Many people battled seasickness. A few lectures were offered to entertain those well enough to attend, but most passengers stayed in their cabins.

26th December - Boxing Day

Waves built from 4–5 meters to a punishing 6–7 meters at their worst. I couldn’t eat and only felt okay when I was horizontal. Moving around the ship was a challenge - you had to keep 'one hand for yourself and one hand for the ship.'

Experiencing the infamous Drake Shake was far less magical than everything that had come before. The one thing I did manage was to participate in the photo contest, where I took third place with this shot of a seal.

27th December 2025 - Day at Sea

The smooth waters of the Beagle Channel, where we were for most of the day, were a welcomed change from being tossed around by the Drake. It was mainly an administrative day spent returning boots and name tags, settling bills, paying gratuities and swapping contact information with our shipmates. We enjoyed one last dinner together as one big Antarctic family, followed by a few goodbye drinks in the bar.

28th December 2025 - Disembarkation

Since we were already so close to Ushuaia, we were unceremoniously kicked off the boat at the ungodly hour of 7:00am. Luckily, luggage storage had been organized by Poseidon, because our flight wasn’t until 6:00pm, leaving us with nearly a full day to wander, explore, eat and try to stay awake.

Antarctica was more than just an extraordinary piece of geography, it was an experience that recalibrated my sense of scale, silence and significance. The landscapes were vast beyond comprehension, the wildlife felt impossibly intimate and the stillness lingered long after the gear was returned and the seasickness faded.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Blog: Read this account of the same cruise, from a different year, for more history and logistical information.
Accommodations: Antarctica is remote. Nobody lives there year-round. There are super expensive options where you can fly in and stay on the ice for a short period, but for most travelers, you eat, sleep and explore from your cruise ship. Landings are made using zodiacs.
Ships: There are many options. I recommend choosing a ship with fewer than 200 passengers to maximize your time on land, since there are limits on how many people can visit each site at once.
Embarkation: The primary gateways to Antarctica are Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, with South America being the closest and most popular launch point.
Cost: Antarctica is not a budget destination. Expect to pay at least $8,000 USD per person for the ship alone. Flights, gear and extras will be added on top of that.
Tips: Gratuities for the housekeeping and expedition teams came to £710 for the three people on my trip.
Fuel Surcharge: We were warned this might apply, but it didn’t. Some travelers report being hit with a hefty fee at the end of their trip, so it’s best to ask in advance.
Currency: Our ship operated in USD; other ships may vary.
Electricity: Our ship used 110V with US plugs. Check your own ship’s requirements ahead of time.
Visas: No country owns Antarctica, so there’s no passport control there. You may still require visas for the country you depart from. Always check ahead of time.
IAATO: The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators governs Antarctic tourism to ensure safe and environmentally responsible practices. Strict biosecurity rules apply - you cannot kneel, crouch nor sit on the ground in most areas, and no food is allowed ashore. Leave nothing behind but footprints.
Mobile Service and Wi-Fi: There is no mobile service; coverage ends in the Beagle Channel. Wi-Fi onboard was limited, with a small daily allowance and was generally poor. On our ship, there was a special Wi-Fi on the 5th deck, specifically for the Ukrainian passengers, that worked very well once you had the secret login details.
Accessibility: This kind of travel isn’t for everyone. Zodiac landings can be tricky, with uneven surfaces, deep snow, and slippery rocks. Hikes on land were often steep, slippery, and challenging.
Landscape: Antarctica is mountainous. It’s the highest, coldest and driest continent - a true polar desert.
Weather: Summer can be surprisingly bright and warm. Many people got sunburned, so sunscreen and sunglasses are a must. But it can also be cold and windy, so thermal and waterproof layers are also essential.
White Lights: From roughly November through March, the sun remains above the horizon, creating 'white nights' with light around the clock, particularly near the solstice.
Seasickness: Once you reach Antarctica, the seas are calm but getting there can be rough. I wore half a Scopolamine patch, each way, through the Drake Passage. They can have scary side effects, so consider carefully.
Penguins: On land, penguins have no natural predators so are therefore not afraid of humans. Maintain at least a 5-meter distance but be prepared for them to wander into your space.
Lectures: Onboard expedition leaders run educational and fascinating lectures throughout the trip.
Food: Three meals a day: breakfast and lunch are buffets, and most dinners were ordered from an extensive menu. Room service was also available for seasick passengers.
Allergies: Oddly, I had hay fever in Antarctica, though I can’t imagine what triggered it. Some penguins were sneezing too, so maybe they suffer from allergies as well.

PACKING LIST

For a full, detailed packing list, check out Adventurous Kate’s guide.

Keep in mind that you’ll change multiple times per day on excursion days, so plan on layers and quick-access items.

Some things that I highly recommend are below:

Essentials

Passport
Evidence of travel insurance
Cruise paperwork
Wallet
Credit cards / cash
Air Tags (lifesaver if your bags get lost!)
Suitcase lock
Extra luggage tags
Pen

Health & Medication

Prescriptions
First aid kit
Scopolamine patches for seasickness
Vitamins

Toiletries & Personal Care

All your usual toiletries
Face sunscreen (don’t forget to apply it under your nose & chin as the ice reflects sunlight)
Lip balm with SPF
Eye drops & hand cream for dryness
Laundry detergent sheets
Earplugs
Tissues
Hand & foot warmers (foot warmers are better because they stick, so they won't get dropped)

Electronics

iPhone / mobile
iPad / tablet
Chargers & adapters
Long charging cords
Back-up mobile charger
Headphones
Camera, lenses, batteries, SD cards, filters

Clothing

Undergarments: underwear, bras, sports bras
Socks: thermal, liner, wool, ankle
2x PJs
Thermals / base layers
Waterproof Pants
Snow Pants
Waterproof jacket
Uniqlo puffy jacket
Hats (warmth + sun protection)
Waterproof gloves & glove liners
Gaiter / neck warmer
2x sunglasses + strap (so they're easy to take on and off for photography)
Yoga / comfy clothes for downtime
Insoles for muck boots
Sturdy, comfy shoes for around the ship
Waterproof hiking boots

Special Occasion & Fun

Christmas attire (hat, sweater)
Dress-up outfit for Captain’s Night (optional)
Playing cards / games / books

Bags

Small day bag for onboard use
Waterproof bag for cruises & landings
Bag for dirty laundry
Ziplock bags for electronics and wet items