from buenos aires to ushuaia and beyond

The six days before embarking on my Antarctic expedition were spent in Argentina - Buenos Aires then Ushuaia. I had visited BA once before, fourteen years ago, but it was a pleasure to return and rediscover the city after so many years away. Ushuaia, which was new to me, felt like a quaint outpost primarily serving travelers en route to Patagonia or the White Continent. With its alpine-Nordic feel and hiker- and backpacker-friendly charm, it seemed perfectly suited to its role as a gateway to the end of the world.

Below are my recommendations for short stays in Buenos Aires and/or Ushuaia.

BUENOS AIRES

ACCOMODATION:

I stayed at a boutique hotel on a charming street in Palermo Soho called Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa. The location was great, situated about 45-mins from the international airport (EZE) and 15-mins from the domestic airport (AEP). The hotel staff were warm and helpful, and the common areas were very pleasant. However, I found the rooms to be somewhat dated and on the smaller side. I would highly recommend staying in the same neighborhood but perhaps opt for a different hotel if you’re able to find a better option.

DO:

Wander around Palermo Soho: This neighborhood was home to some of the best street art in Buenos Aires along with cafés serving expertly brewed coffee, and an abundance of hip bars and restaurants. Pop into cafés, eat empanadas, browse the shops, visit the botanical gardens (free admission) and generally allow yourself to get lost. Who knows what you might see - perhaps even a parrot making off with a packet of mayo, if you're lucky!?

Visit Recoleta: One of Buenos Aires’ more elegant and affluent barrios, Recoleta was filled with leafy streets, trendy cafés, luxury apartments, parks, museums and art galleries. Be sure to visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid, an opulent theater-turned-bookshop, before making your way to the famous cemetery, the final resting place of Eva Perón. The burial grounds felt

like a city unto itself, complete with avenues, side streets and street signs.

I highly recommend experiencing tango while in Buenos Aires, though not all shows are created equal. Skip Aljibe. I chose it because it started earlier than most, but it felt hokey, and the accordion-heavy soundtrack quickly became monotonous. On my previous visit, I went to the Rojo Tango Show at The Faena Hotel, which was sexy, passionate and mysterious, though undeniably expensive. Do a bit of research and find a show that suits your taste, but don’t leave the city without seeing tango performed live.

CONSUME:

Moshu Treehouse: Linger over breakfast or lunch in the leafy courtyard of this whimsical, treehouse-inspired café.

Don Julio: One of the world’s most famous Michelin-starred steakhouses, Don Julio is a must when in Buenos Aires. Book online as far in advance as possible, as tables fill quickly. Arrive about 30 minutes prior to your reservation to enjoy complimentary champagne and empanadas while you wait. The steaks were enormous, though smaller cuts are available off-menu, if you ask.

Parrilla Doña Tota: Known for its authentic Argentine barbecue, this popular steakhouse was decorated with football memorabilia celebrating Diego Maradona. It offered a vibrant atmosphere and great service for fans of both meat and football.

For a meal that promised something a little different, we booked a Backyard BBQ. It was an eight-course menu at an authentic Argentine asado (meat cooked over an open fire/grill), paired with thoughtfully selected wines from local vineyards and accompanied by live music from local musicians. Unfortunately, a storm literally rained on our parade, and the event was cancelled.

USHUAIA

Affectionately referred to as 'the end of the world,' Ushuaia is the where the map ends and adventure begins. The town was colorful and compact, framed by snow-capped mountains and lined with outdoor-gear and souvenir shops. It was a pleasant place to spend a few days, though there wasn’t a great deal to do beyond soaking up the scenery and preparing for onward adventures.

ACCOMODATION:

The only five-star option in Ushuaia was the Arakur Resort & Spa. Perched on a hill about 15 minutes from the city center, it offered spectacular views, excellent food and a luxurious spa. A complimentary shuttle to and from town made staying here both convenient and indulgent.

DO:

Book a half-day Tierra del Fuego tour with train. You’ll be mesmerized by the landscapes of the southernmost national park and get to ride the historic 'End of the World' train. Our group was small, with just 11 people, and we stopped at four scenic spots along the way. The tour ended with a shot of Licor Fino Legui, a traditional Argentine herbal liqueur made from sugarcane molasses and infused with herbs, caramel and citrus. At nearly 30% alcohol, it warmed us right up.

If you have some free time to kill in Ushuaia, visit the Maritime Museum, located in the former penal colony. The complex also housed an Antarctic Museum and a Prison Museum, offering insight into the region’s harsh history and its legacy of maritime exploration.

CONSUME:

María Lola Restó: For delicious Argentine and Patagonian cuisine complemented by views of the city and port, this is a lovely spot for a meal.

La Cantina De Freddy: An ideal spot for sampling fresh centolla (king crab) in Ushuaia. The atmosphere was cozy, welcoming and perfectly suited to a relaxed, hearty meal.

The Dublin - I’ve yet to visit a city that didn’t have an Irish pub, and Ushuaia was no exception. A stop at the southernmost Irish pub in the world feels imperative, even if only so you can say you’ve been.

Next up: Antarctica!

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

• Visas: On my previous visit to Argentina, a visa was required, but this time it was no longer necessary for U.S. passport holders. Always double-check entry requirements before you travel, as policies can change.

• Cash: You’ll mainly need cash for tipping and taxis. Avoid using ATMs and opt for a currency exchange instead. Your hotel can usually recommend a trustworthy one.

• Tipping: A 10% tip is standard for good service in restaurants. In most cases, tips must be given in cash. We were unable to add them to credit card payments in most places.

• Currency: The official currency was the Argentine peso, though U.S. dollars are also widely accepted. This can be confusing, as prices are typically written with a dollar sign ($) regardless of the currency. Always confirm which currency you’re being charged in. Additionally, commas were commonly used as decimal separators, instead of periods, which added to the confusion.

• Food: Portion sizes were enormous everywhere. Sharing dishes is highly recommended.

• Language: English was widely spoken, and we didn’t encounter any major communication issues.

• Taxis: I was advised to avoid local taxis, so I relied on pre-arranged drivers or Uber throughout my trip.

• Electricity: Argentina used both Type C (two-pin round European plugs) and Type I (Australian-style) outlets. The voltage was 220V, similar to most of Europe, so be prepared with the appropriate adapters and converters.

• Weather: Despite it being summer in both destinations, Buenos Aires was very hot while Ushuaia was bitterly cold—it even snowed. Be ready for all four seasons in a single day at the end of the world.