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Although not easily accessible, a visit to Lake Ohrid (pronounced ock-rid) is definitely worthwhile! In my opinion, it's one of the most enticing destinations in the Balkans. The lake is the oldest and deepest in Europe and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. It’s absolutely beautiful, incredibly inexpensive and a great place to relax for a few days whilst immersing yourself into North Macedonian culture. It’s also relatively undiscovered compared to its Greek neighbor, making it an ideal retreat. GETTING THERE: It was easier/cheaper to fly direct from London into the Albania capital than to fly, with a layover, to either airport in North Macedonia (even though there is an airport in Ohrid). From Tirana, I organized a private transfer via Booking.com , in advance, to Lake Ohrid. The car journey took about 3.5 hours, including 30-minutes at the border, crossing between Albania and North Macedonia. Although we didn't spend much time in Albania, Tirana was surprisingly mountainous and modern. For a country that has had some stark years, I expected it to be dominated by grey concrete like other Post-Communist European cities. I might need to go back one day for a proper visit, but I digress... ACCOMODATION: In Lake Ohrid, I stayed at Villa Varosh - A boutique apartment-style lodging in the heart of the Old Town. It wasn't particularly modern, but it was clean, the staff were lovely and it had everything I could possibly have needed. I would recommend this hotel, but if I went again, I'd look to rent a lakefront villa/guest house in the Old Town instead. SEE/DO: Apparently every household in Ohrid makes their own wine. After years of practicing, a priest and an engineer decided to found Monastery Winery , in 2019. They now produce about 10k bottles/year. The Monastery Winery Tour I booked (for £30.31) started off with Stefan collecting us in Old Town. He drove us 25 minutes to a village with a population of 'eight old people'. The priest's son gave us a tour of the facilities and then we were served five full glasses of wine (2x white, 1x rose and 2x red), local cheeses and charcuterie, two types of rakija (brandy) and a shot of gin. At the end, Stefan got us home safely. No trip to Lake Ohrid would be complete without getting out on the water. I booked a one-hour private boat trip (for £23.30), in advance. Pre-booking was not necessary though. If you walk down to the Ohrid main harbor, there are tons of boats trying to sell you tours and I'm certain you can negotiate. I really wish I had booked a longer excursion; one hour was not enough. It was so peaceful and beautiful being on the lake. Because the tour was private, the captain was happy to drop us off at Cuba Libre Beach Club, instead of back at the Old Town. The rest of the day was spent at Cuba Libre Beach & Bar . I ate there, I drank there, I sunned myself there and I think I spent £35 in about six hours. You can't really spend money here, even if you try! For the most beautiful views of the lake, hike up the hill above the Church of Saint John the Theologian . After visiting Church of Saint John the Theologian, walk back along the man-made boardwalk. CONSUME: My favorite restaurant in Lake Ohrid Old Town was Restaurant Kajche . They have their own pier with unobstructed views of the lake. The service was great and the portions were generous. A few bottles of wine, some starters, two mains and a few sides all came to about £33 each. Be prepared for a lot of hungry cats to be hanging around, and begging. Located right on the water, Dolna Porta was a nice spot to enjoy your breakfast For fine dining, eat at Kaneo . From their terrace, you'll have views of one of the most famous sights - Church of Saint John the Theologian. it can get busy, so make a reservation for a lakeside table in advance. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Safety : The Republic of North Macedonia is one of the smallest and poorest countries in Europe, but it is perfectly safe for travelers, apart from maybe near the border with Kosovo. Petty crimes do exist, but they are rare. Visa : North Macedonia is not part of the EU nor the Schengen Zone, but a visa is not required for Europeans and many other foreign nationals. Currency : Since it's not part of the EU, North Macedonia does not use the Euro. Their currency is the Denar. Macedonia is arguably the cheapest country in Europe. When I went (July 2024) £1 GBP = 73 Macedonian Denars. Beaches : The lake is crystal clear and very clean, but its beaches are rocky. I suggest bringing water shoes. Transportation : There was no Uber and taxis were not plentiful, but there were water taxis. You can get to most places you'll need to go by foot. High Season : The majority of visitors come from around Macedonia itself or from neighboring countries. The shore of Ohrid is at its busiest in July and August - so don't come expecting an unspoiled paradise. #balkans #lakeohrid #ohrid #northmacedonia #republicofnorthmacedonia #europe

I had the good fortune of ringing in 2018 in Porto . The city was alive with energy and charm then and still is now. Returning felt like revisiting an old friend - familiar, nostalgic and an opportunity to rediscover a connection. Free from the pressure to see/do everything, this time I wandered further and dug a little deeper. Read on for recommendations on how to spend the perfect long weekend in this beautiful city. ACCOMODATION: I highly recommend staying at Hospes Infante Sagres , Porto's first five-star hotel (when it opened in 1951). In 2024, extensive refurbishments modernized the hotel's elegance and comfort whilst preserving its historical charm. It's located just steps from some of Porto’s most iconic attractions yet tucked away enough to feel like a peaceful retreat. Don’t miss the plunge pool area on the rooftop, perfect for cooling off or catching some rays on a hot day. TOURS: Guided tours are a great way to explore Porto’s beauty, soak up its culture and experience its welcoming atmosphere. Here are some tours to consider: Get your bearings and learn the lay of the land with a private walking tour . André led us around Porto’s UNESCO-listed historic center, from Clerigos Tower to Ribeira. He pointed out various landmarks and regaled us with stories and interesting anecdotes behind every tiled facade . Get out on the water with a Douro River Boat Cruise . This is a peaceful way to take in the city's architecture from a different perspective. Our cruise was intended to have seven people, but three no-shows meant we had the boat all to ourselves. Our guides, Ines and Antonio, were wonderful, hospitable and knowledgeable. For wine lovers, no trip to Porto is complete without tasting its namesake export. Be sure to make time for a full-day tour and tasting in the Douro Valley .  CONSUME: Porto’s culinary scene is a delicious blend of hearty tradition and fresh innovation. Whether you’re craving classic dishes or modern twists, these spots should be on your list: Brunch: Dubbed by the press as 'the God of the brunch', Zenith is an all day, everyday brunch spot. Its menu is diverse and creative with a mix of sweet and savory dishes like Oreo pancakes, French toast, eggs Benedict, Brazilian açaí and shakshuka . The portion sizes are generous and pair well with their delicious signature cocktails. Lunch: If you’re in the mood for some of the Atlantic’s bounty, Armazém do Peixe is an excellent choice. It's only about a three-minute walk to the marina, so it's an ideal option for lunch pre-boat ride. Also, they'll let you take bottles of wine to go, to bring with you on your cruise. For a taste of traditional Porto, we were directed to Cerca Velha to try their authentic Bifana sandwich ( marinated pork slices with a flavorful sauce on a soft roll ). While the sandwich absolutely delivered on flavor, the service left a bit to be desired. So we wandered across Largo da Pena Ventosa and ended up at Conte D’rei . The steak sandwich was insane, the cheeseboard was perfectly curated, the wine was cold and the service was genuinely friendly. It turned into one of our favorite lunch spots in the city. Highly recommend! Dinner: Cozinha das Flores is an absolute must. Helmed by acclaimed Chef Nuno Mendes (a friend of a friend), this restaurant celebrates northern Portuguese ingredients through inventive, open-fire cooking. The open kitchen adds an intimate, behind-the-scenes vibe, while the menu blends tradition with playful, contemporary twists. Every dish was stunning and mouth-watering. Drinks: Royal Cocktail Club is on the 50 Best list for a reason. It is a must for cocktail lovers. I was impressed by the creativity and presentation. Each drink is a work of art. Porto is the perfect place for a long weekend escape. In just a few days, you can stroll along the Douro River, sip world-class wine, admire tiled buildings and indulge in unforgettable food. Compact yet bursting with charm, Porto invites you to slow down and savor every moment. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Reservations : Porto has some truly excellent eateries, including over a dozen places listed in the Michelin guide. If you plan to enjoy a meal at one of the city’s celebrated restaurants, reserve several weeks in advance. Footwear : The hills and uneven pavement in Porto are sure to give your legs a workout. If you don't want to twist an ankle, leave the heels at home and make sure you bring good walking shoes. Weather : While on the cold Atlantic, Porto has a Mediterranean-like climate, with warm, dry summers and cooler, wetter winters. Bring layers, as the temperature can vary considerably. Tipping : Locals don’t tip at all or simply round up when paying for a meal or a taxi. In more tourist-oriented establishments a 10% tip is common though and may even be pre-added as a service charge. It is not expected to tip in cafés nor bars. However, if you’re in a high-end place, you should plan on leaving an additional €1–2 per specialty drink.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site town gave port wine its name, but the ceramic-tiled, pastel buildings built on the hills overlooking the Douro River give it its charm. It is the second largest city in Portugal, after Lisbon. You don’t need a lot of time to explore this city; a few days will do. I stayed in Ribeira, the oldest district of the city, in a lovely guest house with exposed stone walls and an old record player. It was about a five-minute walk to the famous Dom Luís I Bridge and the river promenade. There were only nine rooms in the guest house . The staff was helpful and wonderful. A bottle of champagne was left in my room to be enjoyed on New Year’s Eve, which I thought was a very nice touch! I busied myself most days pottering around the city with no real itinerary. It’s mild weather, hills, cobbled streets, colorful buildings and graffiti make for pleasant strolls and great photos. I walked across the Ponte Luiz I to the town on the other side, Gaia, for stunning views looking back at Porto. After walking up what seemed like 1,000,000 stairs, I stumbled upon the São Bento Station in Almeida Garret Square. It’s a nineteenth-century train station that has 20,000 tiles illustrating scenes from Portugal’s past. Also in this square, I spotted St. Anthony’s Congregados Church. I didn't find the Bolhão Market hugely exciting, but I did come across an odd street performance on the way out, which made it worthwhile for me. Yes that was a real bird on the kid's shoulder and a real chicken too. Rua das Flores is a busy, pedestrian street, good for cafes and shopping. Foz do Douro is slightly outside of the old town centre, but it’s a chic seaside area known for its beaches. Here, the Duoro River meets the Atlantic Ocean, which can be wild in winter. The waves were crashing along the breakers, spraying water higher than the lighthouse. Looking at the angry sea, you’d think a tropical storm was brewing, but in reality, it was a blue-skied, sunny, warm day. The sunsets viewed from Foz are also incredible! On 30th December, there was a 10K road race that was apparently quite a big deal. I was told that 15,000 people partook in the event and it felt like the remaining 201,000 of Porto's population was out supporting them. Between the turnout and the passion for the race, you'd have thought this was an Ironman. My New Year's eve was celebrated on a boat, cruising the Duoro River. For food, there were so many yummy hidden joints, all relatively inexpensive, but the following places stood out: Páteo das Flores - A modern wine bar set in an eighteenth-century manor house. It’s a juxtaposition of old and new that works really well. I recommend sitting in the glass-covered courtyard and eating all the truffle butter that they’ll give you. I had lunch here, but I think it would probably also be a suitable option for dinner as well. If you prefer to mainline carbs and coffee for brekkie you'll be in heaven in Portugal, but if you fancy a more substantial breakfast, wander over to The Traveller Caffé on Rua de Passos Manuel for eggs, hot chocolate and/or a smoothie. Don’t leave Porto without having a dinner at FLOW Restaurant . The ambiance was great, the staff were very good looking and friendly, the bar scene was vibrant and the food was delicious. For what you get, it’s very affordable as well. I would highly recommend the beef carpaccio, if you like that sort of thing. #porto #portugal #europe #douroriver #ribeira #ponteluiz #newyear39seve

My Bulgarian odyssey finally happened - five years and five itineraries later! Originally planned back in 2019, to travel in May 2020, COVID forced me to swap Bulgaria for banana bread baking. For the last half-decade, I have attempted to make this voyage every year, but it has not panned out for one reason or another....Until now! It was a road trip worth waiting for! Bulgaria is a Balkan beauty, filled with stunning topography! Its diverse landscapes mean you can chase waterfalls, explore caves, clamber up rock formations, gaze at pink lakes, float in salt flats and catch rays at the beach. From the capital to the Black Sea, this country's natural beauty shines. But, for every natural gem in Bulgaria, there is at least one crumbling, unoccupied building. In fact, almost half of the country's dwellings are abandoned and dilapidated. We passed through countless ghost villages where empty houses, decaying against their mountainous background, had been left for nature to reclaim. Bulgaria’s forgotten structures are remnants of their Soviet past and evoke a post-apocalyptic feel similar to Chernobyl . The road trip kicked off in Sofia, the nation's capital. Two friends and I arrived late in the evening, rented our car and drove straight to our hotel, the Sofia Balkan Palace , which is part of the President's Palace complex. We had booked a Deluxe King Suite for the three of us, which was immense and came with a bottle of champagne. Although the hotel and suite both appeared opulent and luxurious, everything was just a little off - it all smelled of cigarette smoke, the bar wasn’t open until 1am despite the signage, we were awoken by power tools at 8am in room next door and there wasn't any bedding provided for our pull-out couch. Sofia was a nice city to meander around for a few hours before hitting the road. It was a fairly modern, youthful city with a mix of architectural styles, from Soviet-era buildings to contemporary structures. It had wide, pedestrian-friendly streets, charming boutiques and a growing food scene.  It had numerous parks and green spaces. Within these parks, we saw a lot of above-ground extractor pipes that reminded me of the warp pipes in Super Mario Bros. We decided it would be wise to fuel up before we set off on the first leg of our road trip, so we enjoyed a hearty brunch at Izzy’s Cafe , located in a car park surrounded by cool graffiti. Three hours later, we arrived at Belogradchik, in the foothills of the Balkan Mountains, where we got to see the famous rock formations and the 2,000-year-old fortress nestled within them. The fortress is open 9am-9pm. We paid 8 BGN each for entrance and parking. The Belogradchik Rocks are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We hiked around and marveled at them for about an hour, pointing out the formations that resembled faces, animals and objects. For dinner that evening, we found a nice Serbian place with a rooftop, overlooking the Rocks, called Pri Ivan . We opened and closed the restaurant before hitting the hay at the very dated Hotel Skalite . The next morning, we were on the road by 9am, driving east, for 3.5 hours. Our first stop was Devetàshka cave, home to nearly 30,000 bats. It cost 3 leva each to enter. We were the only people there. I suggest bringing an extra layer as it's cool inside the cave. 20 minutes later we arrived at the majestic Krushuna Waterfalls. We paid a 5 leva entrance fee each and followed the 800m red route. The leisurely path took us only about 30 minutes to complete. It winds you up alongside the cascading, tiered falls, surrounded by lush vegetation. Since we were already there, we decided to take the blue route as well, which I do not recommend. You won't be missing anything, apart from an uphill 1.9 km hike, by skipping it. Next, we drove towards our hotel for the night, stopping first to see the roadside Hotnitsa Waterfall. The murky brown water did not look anything like the picturesque blue-green pool shown online . Feeling deceived, we were only there for about five minutes. 25 minutes later we arrived at the charming city of Veliko Tarnovo. We parked and checked into the most incredible boutique hotel - Bey House Royal Hotel . It had a unique blend of historical charm, luxurious furnishings and exceptional service. Each of its four rooms were kitted out with antique artifacts, plush towels, Malin+Goetz toiletries, Smeg kettles, Dyson hair dryers and iPad lighting/temperature controls. Every detail had been considered, and all amenities were top-notch. Included in the cost of the room was breakfast, dinner and 24/7 access to the Turkish bath facilities. Dinner was served on the terrace and was accompanied by live music. The meal was delicious, and the wine/drinks were superb. After a great night's sleep, on 300 thread count linens, we then drove two and a half hours to see Atanasovsko Lake. Note that Google takes you to the wrong part of the lake. When we arrived, the locals redirected us, but we still couldn't really figure out how to view this pink lake, so we wandered around a bit, saw the salt flats and then got back on the road. 40 minutes later, we arrived at the Castle of Ravadinovo. We paid 30 BGN each to view this unusual complex. Construction began on this modern castle in 1996, and it took two decades to complete. It is unique, extravagant, mystical and exotic. The castle was only about 10 minutes from our hotel for the final two nights. We stayed in Sozopol, the ancient gem of the Black Sea, at Olive Villas Beach Hotel , which had just opened for 'the season' the day before we arrived, so they were still working out some kinks. We spent our final days sunning ourselves. We enjoyed El Tubo Playa's beach club the most. The service and music were great, and it was surprisingly inexpensive. One of the evenings in Sozopol we checked out the historic Old Town, which had an artistic vibe and countless cats. We had dinner at the waterside seafood restaurant known as Panorama St Ivan, which had also just opened for the season the day before. Our final stop on the road trip was Burgas Airport. We were treated to a lovely view of Atanasovsko Lake upon take-off. It turns out it really is pink! Sometimes, the best journeys are the ones that don’t happen on schedule. Postponing this road trip gave me the chance to appreciate it even more when it finally happened. I'm glad I refused to give up on this road trip. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Car Hire : To hire a car in Bulgaria, you'll need a valid driver's license. If the license is from a non-EU country, you'll also need an International Driving Permit (IDP). It's a foolish scheme to extort more money. Sixt rental car charged us €36 per driver because we didn't have IDPs. You can get one in advance for £5.50 in the UK or for $20 at AAA in the US. Roads : We had no issues driving in Bulgaria. We never had any traffic, and the highways were in good condition. We did experience lots of potholes on the smaller roads though. Use Google for navigation as it warns you about speed cameras and road police. Smoking : Tobacco use remains high in Bulgaria. Many of the hotels we stayed in stunk. Fuel : All the gas stations we came across operated on a full-service model, meaning they pumped the petrol for us. Roses : Bulgaria is renowned as 'the Land of Roses'. It is famous for its extensive rose cultivation and is the leading global producer of rose oil . The harvest period is May/June. Currency : When Bulgaria joined the European Union on 1st January 2007, it committed to replacing its currency with the euro. The aim is to switch its lev currency to the euro by 1st January 2026.

Firstly, let me set the record straight…I did not extend my Brazil trip in order to undergo plastic surgery, but I am pleased that so many of you thought so! In actuality, around 4am, on 6th May 2017, with only 13 hours remaining in my 16-day Peru / Brazil trip, one block from my hotel, my taxi driver advanced a red light. We were struck by a city bus, which spun us around into a metal gate...So, I'm told. I don't recall anything immediately before, during or just after the accident. I came to in the hospital as my chin was being stitched up. Asking where I was seemed like a dumb question as I stared up at what were clearly flickering hospital lights, so I opted for ‘What happened?’ The doctor replied, ‘You don’t remember? Are you on drugs?’ No, but it would be greatly appreciated if you could give me some!! In the hours following the accident I was in a semiconscious state and didn’t really have a sense of timing nor what exactly was going on around me. I did realize quite quickly that my purse/mobile did not make it with me on the ambulance journey to the hospital. Luckily, my passport was at the hotel, not on my person, but since I had no other identification, the hospital admitted me under the name Shirley Brchr. The loss of my possessions also meant that I had no way of getting in touch with anyone and no access to any money. Initial cat scans and x-rays revealed a broken pelvis (in at least five places), which would require surgery, and a fractured right elbow. I also nearly bit through my tongue, chipped a tooth, had quite a bit of bruising and required about nine facial sutures. I was whisked away to have my right arm set in a cast and then moved to a bed in a shared room, with seven other patients (and their families). I was pretty out of it, but I do recall hearing a lot of moaning and groaning. In fairness, most of it was probably coming from me. My friend, who was with me in the taxi, Victoria, sustained some painful injuries, but was lucky enough to be released from the hospital a few hours after the accident. Her mobile had also been stolen, but she had her laptop at the hotel, which allowed her to get the game of telephone going. By the time I got a hold of a doctor's phone and could ring my parents, they had already been informed. Thank goodness too, because with my tongue injury, I sounded a lot like I had sustained brain damage. It was a relief to make contact, hear familiar voices and to assure everyone that I was going to be okay. The doctors asked me a lot of questions like ‘Do you want to have surgery here or at a private hospital?’ and ‘Do you have insurance?’ My alter ego, Shirley Brchr, was not cognoscente enough to make a well thought out decision regarding the surgery, but did have the good sense to remember my travel insurance plan, which included emergency medical coverage. THANK GOODNESS! And luckily, I had emailed my dad an electronic copy of the policy some months earlier. I didn’t know it at the time, but my dad went into command center mode and was busying himself conversing with the Brazilian doctors via What’s App, obtaining second opinions from US surgeons, managing insurance claims, alerting my colleagues and cancelling my credit cards (which had all been maxed out). Meanwhile, my sister fielded endless queries from friends and family as the news spread. It’s worth mentioning that she was eight months pregnant and a superstar for handling all of that! Victoria, bless her, really wanted to come back to the hospital that evening to see me but was in so much pain that she sent Brigitte, from our hotel, on her behalf. Brigitte had a hard time locating me in the hospital due to my incorrect name, but ultimately did find me. I had never met Brigitte before, but she was truly a guardian angel. She was caring and selfless, despite not knowing me. Sadly for her, when she arrived, all I wanted assistance with was getting out of my strapless bra, which, let’s be honest, is uncomfortable at the best of times. Brigitte came to visit me nearly every day that I was in the hospital. She got my name corrected, translated from Portuguese to English, helped me fill out paperwork and snuck in edible food. It takes a special woman to show this level of kindness to a stranger and I am forever indebted to her. On the related note regarding guardian angels, there are two other woman who deserve this designation as well. My sister went to grad school with a guy who married a Brazilian. His wife was kind enough to reach out to two of her friends, Ana and Isabel, who lived in Rio. They came to visit me on numerous occasions, also provided translation services, fed me, picked glass out of my hair, entertained me and even paid for my private ambulance. This experience and these ladies taught me that compassion can be found in the most unexpected of places. But I digress. I spent the first night and the whole of the next day in that god awful public trauma hospital. I don’t really remember being attended to very much by the staff, but my roommates were quite interested in me. There was a small television in the room and apparently my accident was reported on the news. This was not the sort of 15 minutes of fame anyone ever hopes for, but I guess I’ll take what I can get. Finally, around 10pm the day after the accident, after Isabel paid for a private ambulance (don’t worry, she was reimbursed), I was transferred to the next hospital. As I was leaving the public hospital, one of the doctors informed me that the driver of the taxi had been badly injured but was being kept alive. Upon arrival at Clínica São Vicente, I was immediately met by my surgeon, Vincenzo Giordano. Blood and x-rays were taken. A chest x-ray unveiled a broken right clavicle, which made sense, because it did feel like I had a knife stuck in my shoulder. Both fractures on my arms were set as they were and did not require surgery, so the surgeon thought it would be best to cut the cast off on my right arm and just put me in a sling. For those of you keeping track, that’s a shattered pelvis, a broken right elbow and a fractured left shoulder. I was running out of working limbs! Of course, all was fixable by surgery, rest and time, and helped by generous quantities of painkillers. I was awoken around 4am the next morning, by the anesthesiologist, for some questions and explanations. I had to confirm medications I was taking, allergies I had and the like. I was then warned that a numbing agent would be utilized and that when I awoke, post-surgery, I would not be able to feel my legs. I was so grateful that he told me that in advance, because had he not, I might have had a meltdown! I was brought into surgery in the wee hours of the morning. I’m told the whole thing, from anesthesia to final x-rays took one hour. The actual insertion of the screws took about 20 minutes and the two incisions are minuscule. Modern medicine is absolutely incredible! Below is an image of my new pelvic accessories. Brazilian titanium, all the rage! I thought I appreciated my body in the past, but sitting there, after my surgery, feeling groggy and itchy, I realized that there was a lot that I had taken for granted. Until you sustain serious injuries and lose abilities, you have no idea how precariously and perfectly your body actually works. I had never had any real injuries previously – no broken bones/long-term hospital stays - so I had no idea what to expect nor what the recovery timeline would be like, but I remember thinking ‘I can do this, I can get through this…because I have to.’ I was very well cared for in the private hospital. The nurses were great, despite the language barrier. However, not being able to use a toilet on your own, wash yourself nor brush your own teeth was awful and doesn’t do much for your dignity. I can also confirm that sponge baths are not nearly as sexy as people make them out to be. Any humility/humanity/pride that I once had went out the window with that two weeks in the hospital. Over the course of the days following the surgery, a few significant things occurred. One, my new iPhone arrived (which my company was kind of enough to ship to me, from the UK). It was a relief to be connected again and to have a tool to help pass the long days. Second, the physical therapist got me up out of bed! I was only able to take about two steps though, before I crumbled with exhaustion into the chair beside the bed. After being made as comfortable as possible, I was left to sit upright for a bit, presumably to keep me from getting bedsores. Food had been delivered, but the tray was all the way across the room and I couldn’t feed myself with my dual broken arms. I started to feel dizzy and uncomfortable from being upright for so long and not having eaten. Additionally, my diaper was in need of changing. I pressed the nurse call button for assistance but it didn’t ring. I kept pressing it, but nothing happen. I panicked. My heart started racing, my vision went spotty, there was ringing in my ears, I began to sweat, my breathing became faulty and my fingertips became numb. In my hysteria, I dropped my mobile so I really had no way of contacting anyone, which created further feelings of dread and anxiety. I think I knew deep-down that I would be fine and that the nurses would come into my room to check on me at some point soon, but I was feeling a sense of terror that I just couldn’t shake, no matter how irrational it was. I started hyperventilating in between screams for help. It was absolutely terrifying. I later learned that this was a panic attack. I had never had one before and I really hope I never have one again. Eventually, the nurses got me back into bed and tranquilized me. They moved my room that night, to one closer to the nurse’s station, that had a working call button. However, that new room didn’t have strong wifi and the air conditioning couldn’t be controlled by remote, so I was then moved to a third room, where I remained for the rest of my stay. My mom arrived on the 13th May. I have never been so happy to see another human in my life! I had been on my own, in the hospital, for about five days at that point. I craved a good hug/cry, to hear some English and to have someone file my nails! Thanks to my mom and the São Vicente physio team, I made great strides in getting out of bed, beginning to use my legs again and being able to use the bathroom facilities (even though assistance was still required). As the days went on, I became strong enough to utilize the outdoor sitting area down the hall from my room. It was lovely, all jungle-y and Amazon-like, with very pleasant weather and I even spotted a monkey on one occasion. The fresh air did wonders for my psyche as well. Although, I could only sit comfortably for about an hour before I would get dizzy and tired and needed to retire to my bed for more sleep and drugs! I have never been able to swallow pills. My dad always told me that one day the time would come where I would have to learn, but this was not that time. After consulting Google translate, I was able to instruct the nurses to crush all my pills for me. I know I was being pumped full of iron because I was anemic after losing a lot of blood during surgery and I also know that there were some pain killers and antibiotics involved, but aside from those, the other meds I was fed were a mystery. On 19th May, I learned that whatever they were giving me in the hospital was magic! About six hours after I had been discharged, when the medication wore off, I was in a world of hurt and the prescription pain killers given to me did next to nothing to ease the pain. The first night out of the hospital was torture. The next morning, between tears, I managed to text my surgeon and he recommended I supplement the prescription pain killers with something that I could obtain over-the-counter, which turned out to be a winning concoction! The combination of trauma, anesthesia and all the medications left me with some odd bodily side effects including a distended abdomen, atrophy, baby/broken hair, dandruff, peeling/scaly skin, loss of eyebrows and dented/discolored nails. Pretty hot, huh? By the time the 23rd of May rolled around, I was finally deemed fit to leave Brazil. My mom and I flew 9.5 hours, in Business Class, to New York City. I was fairly uncomfortable but managed to get through it (what other choice did I have?). In NY, a car service had been organized by my dad to take us to my parents’ house in Connecticut. That journey took a few hours. I was absolutely knackered by the time I arrived at my family home, but it was so great to see my dad and be in comfortable/familiar surroundings. Being back at my folks’ home was exactly what I needed. I had lots of visitors and my parents provided full time assistance with everything from meals and laundry to help washing my hair and getting dressed to rides to doctor appointments/physical therapy. I started to get a little stronger with my crutches and, with a spotter, could even go up/down a few stairs. I thought I was making great progress until 30th May when I suffered a bit of a setback. I finally got an appointment to see the Orthopedic Surgeon in Connecticut. He did an examination, which included x-rays. He was concerned that the screw on my left side of my pelvis had shifted slightly. Any further movement/breakage of the screw could result in another, more invasive surgery so he wanted me non-weight bearing for three more weeks. I was able to do some physio, but it was to be minimal and only to focus on my core and range of motion of my arms. I was also prescribed aqua therapy…Or as I called it water walking. Two days later, I had received even more somber news. My grandmother had passed away at the ripe age of 102 years. Although she had lived a long life and died peacefully, it was heart-breaking to learn that she was not actually immortal. After the funeral, I decided a perspective adjustment was needed on my end. Although the bed-rest was disappointing, three weeks was a short amount of time in the overall timeline of life and much better than having to undergo another surgery. Needing something to occupy my time, I went online and ordered a new Apple TV and a gift card for a year of Netflix. Although secretly for me, these items would officially serve as a combined birthday/Father’s Day gift for my dad. Although the holidays weren't for about 3.5 more weeks, I presented dad with the presents early and then forced him to set it all up immediately, which actually ended up costing him money in the end because he had to upgrade the router and buy some sort of adapter/connector. It was pretty much the worst gift of all time, but an absolute necessity for me. I must have watched hundreds of hours of Netflix. In fact, I’m pretty sure I came to the end of Netflix. And there is a now permanent Sherry-shaped indent on my parents' couch. On the 15th June, the family finally had a reason to celebrate. My niece Natalie Belle was born. She was named after my maternal grandmother (first name) and one of guardian angels (middle name) which was very special to me. Even more good news followed on 19th June, after a second appointment with my Orthopedic Surgeon. I was upgraded from 0% weight bearing on my left leg to 50%, which meant I could ditch the wheelchair and get back to walking with the assistance of crutches. Over the course of the next six weeks or so, I started to experience many small milestones. I could get in and out of bed on my own, wash my own hair, get myself dressed, cross my legs, roll over and go up/downstairs. The rented hospital bed was sent back and the wheelchair retired. I was also doing a good job of weaning myself off the pain killers (mostly because I was ready to start drinking again). I still had pain, walked really slow and was uncomfortable sitting or standing for too long, but I was making real progress with the help of a positive attitude and my amazing physical therapist. About 12 weeks after the accident, on 31st July, I saw the doctor for the third and final time. The not-so-great news was that my right elbow had not yet healed, but the good news was that my left shoulder and my pelvis were looking good and I was cleared to get off crutches!! I promptly threw the walking sticks in trash and started doing about six hours of physio a week. I was sick of being useless and was determined to get back to being a normal human who could do normal human things. At this point I was off the pain killers entirely and just taking Ibuprofen a few times per day. I felt like I was about 198 years old when I would get out of bed or when it rained. My lower back ached, my neck was stiff and I still would get uncomfortable sitting for longer than a few consecutive hours, but I was happy to be alive, making progress and gaining some independence. By this point, it had now been over three months since I left London and all I had with me was the carry-on bag that I had packed for my Peru/Brazil trip. I was excited at the prospect of getting back to London and having a whole wardrobe of clothes that I hadn't seen in ages. As September rolled around, I was finally strong enough, mentally and physically, to return to London. I had a lot of admin to do in order to re-acclimate to life in London…Four months of mail to go through, doctor’s appointments to set up and attend, hours of physical therapy, osteopath appointments, x-rays, getting myself back in shape, catching up with friends and getting back to work. Shortly after I got back to London, I received an email from the Rio police indicating that the taxi driver was still in hospital. That email really gave me a new frame of mind. As bad as I thought my experience was, his was still ongoing and seemed much worse. I realized how easy it is to get caught up in your own problems and focus on what is lacking rather than counting your blessings. As I wrap this up, I'll leave you with the following two of my final thoughts on this matter... 1) The win for the best £48.99 I spent in 2016 goes to my 2017 travel insurance policy! Please let this be a cautionary tale to all of you out there who ‘risk it’ when you go on holiday. These sorts of things are unpredictable and can happen to anyone, anywhere. In my case, $45k had to be prepaid before the I could even be admitted into the private hospital, ahead of my surgery. And lord knows how much the total bill came to after two weeks there. Do yourself, and your family, a favor and get a travel insurance plan that covers you medically, in the event of an emergency. SafetyWing offers Nomad Insurance plans designed for every kind of adventure, big or small. 2) I want to take this opportunity to thank all my friends and family for their thoughts, messages, laughs, kind words, gifts, visits and help along the way. I’d especially like to thank my family for doing literally everything and my work for allowing me to get well without having to endure the added pressure of not being able to pay my bills. I am forever grateful to all the wonderful people in my life! #accident #automobileaccident #hospital #brazil #brasil #riodejaneiro #travelinsurance #usa

Slovenia is all about the l o ve - it's even in the country's name. Lovers Day is celebrated on 12th March each year and the capital, Ljubljana, means ‘beloved’. This association with love is fitting for a nation located in the heart of Europe that offers such a romantic and welcoming atmosphere. Slovenia's snow-capped mountains, cascading waterfalls, turquoise rivers, glacier-fed lakes, abundant vineyards, charming towns, hospitable population and reasonable prices will have you head over heels in no time. Continue reading for my top picks for a long weekend in Slovenia. ACCOMODATION: If you're looking for a blend of value and luxury, look no further than AS Boutique hotel. It's a Mr & Mrs Smith boutique property, centrally located in the traffic-free zone of Ljubljana. The attention to small details and personalized service of the staff makes all the difference. ACTIVITIES: Ljubljana Walking Tour I like to start a city break off with a walking tour, to get the lay of the land and learn a bit about the place. Ljubljana was no different, so I booked this 2.5 hour tour . Although the guide was knowledgeable and entertaining, the tour was far too long for such a compact city. Had I known that free, shorter tours were offered, I would have chosen that option instead. Wine Tasting Slovenia has what's known as a "wet" drinking culture, where alcohol consumption is normalized and integrated into daily life. This makes sense because Slovenian alcohol is top-notch - from craft beers and awarding-winning gin to their traditional blueberry schnapps. They are most passionate about their wine though , so it felt a rude not to support Slovenia’s viticulture. Our first stop on our Vipava Valley tour , by the Italian border, was Lavrencic Estate . All five wines we tasted (1x sparkling, 2x white, 1x orange and 1x red) were delicious. The nutty cheese, Karst prosciutto (which owes its flavor to the bora wind that dries it) and locally grown olives were all also out of this world. After, we went to Burja Estate , to taste some organic, sustainable, biodynamic wines. This place has a cool, bohemian, earthy and funky vibe. As Mateja, one of the owners, introduced us to her wines, her husband, Primoz, was out foraging for wild onions. These unique wines were paired masterfully with dehydrated celery & beetroot crisps and charcoal cheese. YUM! Lake Bled & Bohinj Day Trip You cannot get the full Slovenian experience without visiting its alpine lakes. On this full day tour , we explored two of the most famous lakes within the Julian Alps. The first stop was Bled Castle where I treated myself to a slice of Blejska kremšnita ( the famous Bled cream cake) and enjoyed the first scenic views of Lake Bled (more to come later). We were supposed to visit Vintar Gorge next, but it was closed for the winter, so instead we went to Savica Waterfall in the Lake Bohinj area of Triglav National Park. It's about a 20-30 minute hike up 500+ steps to see the falls. We stopped by the tranquil shores of Lake Bohinj after the waterfall hike. This is the largest lake in Slovenia. Although it doesn't have a fairy tale island with a church in the middle, like Bled, it is surrounded by beautiful mountains. And the misty weather made for mysterious and mystical photos. Then we headed back to Lake Bled, where we took a pletna (hand-made traditional wooden gondola driven by a pletnar ) to Bled Island. There isn't a whole lot on the island other than a cafe, a souvenir shop and The Church of Mary the Queen (also known as the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary or Our Lady of the Lake), but it's worth a short visit . Finally, around 3pm, we had the opportunity to have some lunch. We dined on the shores of Lake Bled, at a restaurant called Starkl , where we enjoyed some typical Slovenian Carniolan sausage and local wine. CONSUME: Modern Slovenian cuisine has developed recently and is quickly gaining recognition. Slovenia was declared the European Region of Gastronomy 2021 , and as of 2024, Michelin had recognized 63 Slovenian restaurants (1x with 3 stars, 1x with 2 stars and 8x with 1 star) - not bad for a tiny country! Restavracija Strelec Set within the capital's most iconic landmark - Ljubljana Castle, this fine dining experience was worth every cent. I opted for the 5-course menu (€95 at the time when I went). The most memorable courses were the kohlrabi, the venison and the Jerusalem artichoke and pear desert with brown butter. Service was impeccable and the plating was exquisite. It's everything you should expect from a one Michelin star restaurant. The Ljubljana Castle Jazz Club I stumbled upon this place, by accident. When I went down into the basement of the castle, after dinner at Strelec, to use the toilet, I happened to hear live music. I asked our server about it and he told us that right next door was Rock Hall, which hosts live concerts (mostly jazz) from 8-10:30pm every Friday. Normally you have to buy tickets, but when we went, at about 9:30pm, the bouncer granted us free entry. I believe tickets cost €15 (which also includes a roundtrip funicular ride). It was a really cool space and great music! Altroke The ambience here is pleasantly rustic, with exposed stonework and a brick-vaulted ceiling which blend in well with this old district of the city. They are known for their meat and fish dishes. I had the beef short ribs (melt in the mouth) with smooth mash and some nice local red wine. Slovenia truly lives up to the "love" in its name. It is a destination that satisfies all needs, wishes and whims. Whether you’re heading for a rest and reboot, an active adventure, a cultural excursion or a solid mix of everything, Slovenia will charm you. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Language : The official and primary language is Slovenian, which is considered one of the most archaic languages in Europe. W ith only a population of only about two million and no other countries speaking Slovenian, everyone speaks English. Bees : This country has about two million people and more than 100,000 of them are beekeepers. Funicular : The timetable online indicates that the funicular operates until 7pm between January and July and until 10pm from August - December. What isn't noted, that I learned later, is that on nights when there are concerts, it operates until 11pm. It's €3.30 for adults one-way or €6 for return. If you buy a concert ticket, it includes a roundtrip funicular ride. Reservations : By now, the masses have heard about Slovenia. It's necessary to book accommodations and tables at restaurants in advance as a result.

The Alsace region is located in north-eastern France, near the borders of Germany and Switzerland. This area has been occupied by both Germany and France over the centuries. As a result, Alsace has a distinctive culture, all its own, but with distinct French and German influences. It is most famous for storks, geraniums, Riesling and sauerkraut. Colmar, the third largest Alsatian town, is like a perfectly preserved and enchanting fairy tale. Its half-timbered houses, canals and bridges, cuisine, viticulture and charming accommodations make it an outstanding place to base yourself when exploring Alsace. If you're looking for the most charming things to do in Colmar, I’ve got you covered. Here’s a guide for where to stay, things to do and where/what to consume. ACCOMODATION: Nestled in the heart of the Petite Venise (Littel Venice) neighborhood, the Hotel Le Colombier Colmar offers 33 rooms and suites. It's a great location, with a cute courtyard. The rooms were nothing to write home about but were clean and functional. ACTIVITIES: Strolling through the pedestrianized old town is one of the best things to do in Colmar. It’s so cute and charming, with each street filled with candy-colored buildings, leftover Christmas lights/decorations and teddy bears. Once of the best ways to explore and acclimate yourself is to take a walking tour . Be sure to visit the market or Marché Couvert . It's open every day, apart from Mondays. Try the pretzels and Munster cheese. It's a 30-minute train from Colmar to Strasbourg, if you fancy spending a bit of time in a bigger Alsatian city. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Strasbourg is not to be missed! Don't leave the region without exploring at least some of the Alsatian Wine Route. I did this tour , which was FANTASTIC! We visited three wineries and tasted 23 Rieslings, Gewürztraminers, Pinot Gris, Muscats and Crémant d’Alsace. The Alsace Wine Trail offers kilometer after kilometer of happiness (170km to be exact). It passes through almost 119 winegrowing villages where almost 720 wine producers look forward to welcoming you to share their passion for wine. CONSUME: It’s fair to say that my daily consumption of cheese, wine and carbohydrates on this trip was closer, medically, to a cry for help than a diet. But, if that sounds good to you, here are my recommendations… Be sure to try Colmar's local delicacies like flammenkuchen/tartes flambées (pizza-like), munster cheese, kugelhopf  (bunt cake) and other specialties in traditional restaurants called Winstubs (bistros). Have lunch at the adorable Jadis et Gourmande . I overindulged on a goat cheese salad and potatoes smothered with cheese/bacon and washed it all down with some Riesling. For dinner the first night in Colmar, I dined at À l'Échevin , in the Hôtel Le Maréchal. The restaurant is Michelin-recommended . I suggest booking, in advance, for the blue dining room, which overlooks the river and order the duck two ways. The second night, I ate at Restaurant Girardin , one of Colmar's three restaurants with Michelin stars. We enjoyed a 5-course tasting menu, in a sparse room with only about 15 other diners. If you find yourself in Strasbourg and have a cheese craving, I highly recommend L’Epicier . They offer raclette, fondue and cheese plates. There are also many wines to choose from. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visit : The tiny town of Colmar, with a population of ~70,000, welcomes ~2.8 million people to its city between the end of November and the end of December. By about the 5th of January, following the Christmas rush, the town nearly shuts down for about a month. Many restaurants and shops are closed and there are very people on the streets. I would recommend visiting from about 2nd - 4th January for a quieter experience, relaxed atmosphere and cheaper rates, but still all lit up. Hours : Like other parts of France, opening hours in Colmar can be quite strange. Usually things are open 9am - 12pm and from 2pm - 7pm. Lunch is usually only served from 12pm - 2pm. Like in other parts of Europe, most shops are also closed on Sundays. Weather : Colmar is one of the driest cities in France. It has a sunny microclimate, with cold, dry winters and warm to hot summers. Disney : Rumor has it that Belle’s small French town in Beauty and the Beast was inspired by villages in the Alsace region. Language : The primary language spoken in Colmar is French, but there is also the German dialect of Alsatian. English is also spoken by many people in the tourist town.

2024 was a year full of irregular events that normally occur every four years, or even less frequently. It was a leap year (thanks, Julius Caesar , for the additional day of work) and the Year of the dragon (signifying power, strength, wisdom and good fortune ). This year gave us the Summer Olympics , the UEFA Euros and a record-setting amount of national elections (76 countries, representing over half of humanity). Skygazers were treated to a total solar eclipse in April. Powerful geomagnetic storms in May and October caused the Aurora Borealis to be seen all over the world, even making a scarce appearance in the southern hemisphere. Arguably though, the rarest celestial event  of 2024 was when the stars aligned, and I finally found someone who wanted to marry me. I visited 13 countries during these 12 months (five of them new to me) and hit my 10-years living in Europe milestone. Below is a recap of my journey, month-by-month... JANUARY At the flip of the calendar, I was eating my body weight in tacos, in Mexico City . When I arrived back in deary London, on the 2nd January, I was plumper and suffering from a severe holiday hangover. The cure for christmaslessness and post- vaca tion blues was another trip. Belgrade, Serbia was the destination of choice, to celebrate a second New Year's, Orthodox style. This was my 25th New Year's celebration in a new place since the turn of the century. The only way to get through the seemingly never-ending succession of cold, grey, icky, dark at 3:30pm days that made up the second half of January was to hibernate indoors and book heat-seeking escapes for the rest of the year. I took advantage of the British Airways January sale , and booked loads of flights so I had lots of treats to look forward to. February February gloom, equally as bad as January's, was nearly avoided as I set off to Cartagena, Colombia , for 15 days, to satisfy my need for sand between my toes. Cartagena was an absolute treasure of a city! It was colorful, tropical, vibrant, relaxing and delectable. March Ever heard of Las Fallas ? I hadn't either. I visited Valencia for a weekend in mid-March and unexpectedly experienced the city's largest celebration and one of the craziest festivals  in all of Spain. N oise levels were pushed to deafening decibels, sophisticated and satirical structures were erected in the city streets and the city's population tripled, creating an impressive five-day nonstop fiesta! Easter came early this year and was, sadly, spent at a funeral in Exeter. Despite the circumstances, I made the best of exploring an area of England that was new to me, and I learned that J.K. Rowling attended the University of Exeter in the mid-80's. Although none of the Harry Potter movies were filmed in Exeter, many nearby locations inspired the series. One example was the medieval door at 10 Cathedral Close (pictured below) was the inspiration for the Room of Requirement in the Wizarding World. April I braved the volatile weather conditions in São Miguel, Azores, Portugal for a six-day road trip. The Azores were beautiful, wild and wonderous. It was a great place to explore rugged landscapes whilst enjoying the warm hospitality of the locals. Liverpool was a lovely weekend city break from London! Scouseland was full of friendly people and had a wonderful, long-standing football tradition, a thriving nightlife and a ton of musical history. May I visited Casablanca, Morocco with the intention of parking my body poolside, on the rooftop of my hotel, for three glorious days. Unfortunately, the hotel's rooftop was closed to guests for a private event. Pool failure aside, Casablanca was a nice place to spend a few days, if you can cope with aggressive locals. Mid-week, I took a day off work to attend one of the premiere British summer social season events - the Chelsea Flower Show . Although it was a wet, muddy and cold day, I enjoyed the company of my mother-in-law-to-be and the beautiful gardens on display both at the show and on the streets of Chelsea . June Two dear friends pampered and spoiled me with a mini bachelorette/hen party at Soho Farmhouse . The rustic-chic countryside retreat was a rural, yet lush, escape from London. I was grateful for the wonderful company, food, drinks, wellness and outdoor activities. July A sports extravaganza was in full swing in Europe in July with the UEFA Euro 2024 in Germany, Paris Olympic Games, British Grand Prix, Wimbledon and the Tour de France all going on. On July 4th, the United States celebrated its independence from Great Britain with fireworks and BBQs. This year though, the 4th of July wasn't significant to only Americans. The UK celebrated its own version of 'Independence Day' when the opposition Labour Party ( led by Keir Starmer ) defeated the governing Conservative Party ( led by Rishi Sunak) in a landslide, during the UK general election. In the US, the race to presidency got bonkers as Donald Trump survived an assassination attempt and Joe Biden abandoned his bid for re-election in November's election. During all this political volatility , I took a four-day mini break to Europe's oldest and deepest lake. Lake Ohrid , straddled between North Macedonia and Albania, was absolutely beautiful, incredibly peaceful, insanely affordable & relatively undiscovered (especially compared to its Greek neighbor). It was a rare holiday where my experience far outweighed my expectations. The CrowdStrike ‘digital pandemic’ may have caused global cascading and widespread chaos, but the travel disruptions did not thwart my friends and family from flying over to London. It took a while, but I finally found my perfect partner with whom to experience all of life’s adventures and nobody was going to miss the celebration! August The first of our mini-moons was spent in Bordeaux, France , enjoying a mix of sport, wine and fine dining. We saw France beat Argentina in the Olympic men's football (soccer) quarterfinals, went wine tasting in Médoc and ate all the snails. Mini-moon part deux was spent in the Cotswolds, at The Fish , with some friends. We had a lot of laughs, communed with nature and enjoyed some needed rest and relaxation. Photo by Condé Nast Traveller 28th August marked a very special occasion for me - It was the tenth anniversary of when I first relocated from San Francisco to London. Though all these years have passed, I still don't have my UK passport (eye roll). September I went Seoul-searching in South Korea , with my folks, for the first half of the month. What an interesting, zany, delicious and fabulous country! Three days after returning from Korea, I flew to Nice, France to watch one of my best friends compete in the VinFast IRONMAN World Championship . This was a 'by qualification only' event, where the best female professional triathletes descended on the Côte d'Azur to conquer a 140.6-mile race (consisting of a 2.4-mile ocean swim, a 112-mile mountainous cycle in the Alps and a 26.22-mile coastal run). What an absolutely insane achievement to have witnessed! October My husband and I spent an autumn weekend in Zürich , one of Europe’s most expensive cities. Known for its walkable streets, fairy-tale architecture, high-end boutiques and proximity to nature, it was a great destination for a short European break. I had a harrowing journey to Connecticut, but it was all worth it to surprise my dad, following his open-heart surgery. It was a good excuse to spend a little extra time with friends and family, and to enjoy the beautiful foliage season. Then, it was back to France, for the third time in as many months. This time, I visited Aix-en-Provence to indulge in the 'Ros é All Day' way of life. November A convicted felon battling a cognitively impaired commander-in-chief, a last minute change in Democratic candidate, two attempted assassination plots and unsubstantiated rumors of immigrants eating pets were just a few of the unusual moments of the historic and frenzied 2024 US Presidential race, which culminated in early November, with Donald Trump retaking the White House as the 47th President. Three and a half weeks after the election, I braved a trip to Trump Land for the first half of my annual Thanksgiving vacation. I visited New York City first and then made my way to Connecticut for lots of family fun and turkey. December The first week of December was spent relaxing and itching in Antigua ! It was a beautiful island, and I had a great time, but I could have done without all the mosquitos and sand flies feasting on me. The next three weeks of December were spent at home because I was passportless. Even though my passport wasn't expiring for another 15 months, I had run out of empty pages. And, with all my impending immigration stuff finally happening in 2025, I didn't want to risk having to change passports in the middle of the process. I did go to Jersey for two nights over NYE though, for some self-care and to keep my NYE streak alive. Next year I've already got some far flung and interesting travels lined up, but there will be fewer overall trips as I prepare for the end of my immigration status and finally work towards my British citizenship. See ya on the flip side! STATS FROM 2024 TRAVELS: Trips: 21   Flights: 39 Air Miles Flown: 63 ,592  ( 2.6 x around the world)   Airlines Flown: 13 Airports Visited: 26 Flight Time: 154 hours   Hours Lost from Delays: 24 (plus several cancellations) Total Countries Visited: 13 New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 6   Continents Visited: 5  (North America, South America, Asia, Africa & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hired Accommodation: 65   #yearinreview #yearintravel #2024 #mexicocity #mexico #northamerica #belgrade #serbia #europe #cartagena #colombia #southamerica #valencia #spain #lasfallas #azores #saomiguel #portugal #zurich #switzerland #rhinefalls #exeter #unitedkingdom #harrypotter #liverpool #casablanca #morocco #africa #chelseaflowershow #sohofarmhouse #lakeohrid #northmacedonia #wedding #nuptials #olympics #bordeaux #france #cotswolds #seoul #southkorea #jejuisland #asia #provence #aixenprovence #newyorkcity #newyork #connecticut #thanksgiving #antigua #englishharbour #jersey

Just so we're clear, I'm referring to the Channel Island, not New Jersey in the USA. The Bailiwick of Jersey is one of five main islands in the English Channel, which is geographically, closer to France than it is to England. Without a passport (mine was being renewed), but still with a desire to keep my New Year’s Eve streak alive, I selected a destination that I had never been to, that was technically within the UK and that was known for its Jersey Royal oysters. I thought 'why not give it a shuck?!'. I only went for two nights, and I only visited the port town of St Helier (the seaside capital). St Helier was named after a Belgian hermit who was beheaded by Viking raiders in 555 AD. Legend holds that he picked up his own head and walked to the shore. St Helier is considered the gateway to the Channel Islands, with its working port and nearby regional airport. It is the most populous town on the island of Jersey, with around 33,500 residents living in just over four square miles. The old town is a lovely blend of English and French history, with narrow pedestrianized streets. ACCOMODATION: I stayed about a 10-minute drive from the airport at a hotel called The Club Hotel & Spa . I chose this hotel because of its luxury spa, proximity to the old town and its Michelin Star & 5 AA Rosette Restaurant. DINE: Jersey is world-famous for its fresh, seasonal produce and shellfish. The island boasts great dairy produced by their local Jersey cows, Jersey Royal potatoes grown exclusively on the island (seasonally) and also offers f resh oysters, lobster and the islanders' favorite – Jersey crab. I recommend dining at the following places: Dinner the first night was consumed at Quayside Bistro & Grill , in Liberty Wharf. As Jersey's largest seafood restaurant, it caters for all but specializes in fresh fish. I had a bunch of yummy oysters, and I also really enjoyed the scallop, crab, melon and pancetta dish, with a balsamic glaze. For lunch the next day, I ate at Colmar , inspired by the grand brasseries and great boulevard cafés of Paris. They served delicious local ingredients combined with classic French cuisine. I particularly liked the Jersey Oysters poached in Beurre Blanc with dill oil and the warm beetroot and grilled goats cheese salad. The only other meal I ate out was on New Year's Eve, at Club Hotel´s restaurant, Bohemia . This restaurant is Jersey´s highest rated Michelin starred restaurant and bar. I had more oysters with red wine vinegar and shallots, and I also really liked the pan-fried Jersey scallops with apple and watercress. DO: I only really had one full day, and my intention was to relax, pamper myself and come back from the trip rejuvenated and ready to start off the new year. As such, I spent most of my time at The Club Spa . I had a massage and a facial and then indulged in the saltwater indoor swimming pool, salt cabin and herbal steam room. I did go for a little wander though and I got to see a glimpse of Elizabeth Castle, which is an island fortress that's 15 centuries old and covers 24 acres. It is only open to visitors in the summer; it's closed November - April. This Renaissance fortress is accessible by foot at low tide and castle ferry at high tide. St Helier is a prosperous financial center and a popular VAT-free shopping destination for visitors looking to buy perfume, spirits, luxury watches and other jewelry. Given the prevalence of oysters, it makes sense that Jersey is also known for pearls. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Immigration: If you are flying to/from the UK, a passport is not required, just a photo ID and you will not need to clear customs on either end. Currency: Pounds Sterling is the legal tender, but they have their own banknotes, which are classed as 'accepted tender' elsewhere in the UK. People do accept it elsewhere in the UK, but they don't have to, so don't forget to spend your last Jersey pounds before you leave.

The laid-back culture and relatively slow pace of Antigua, an eastern Caribbean country located in the West Indies, made it the perfect setting for some post-Thanksgiving R&R, a pair of birthday celebrations and the kick-off to the 2024 holiday season. With its 365 beaches, Antigua is a tropical paradise where you can do as little or as much as you like. You can spend your days sipping rum punch under thatched umbrellas and feasting on fresh seafood or, I'm told, you can get off your sun lounger and partake in the more active pursuits that Antigua has to offer. For those, like me, who want to laze around, read on for ways to enjoy Antiguan   tranquility. ACCOMODATION The tourist infrastructure in Antigua is well established and there are plenty of options to select from. I selected South Point Hotel , in English Harbour, because it was boutique-y, with only had a handful of suites, all with sea views. Its proximity to off-premises dining options was also appealing. The staff are friendly, responsive and professional. The rooms are spacious. They claim to have beach access, but they don't really and it would have been nice if they served poolside beverages, but hey ho. DO Ever dreamed of finding yourself a new beach every day of the year? Well, that’s exactly what the beautiful island nation of Antigua and Barbuda offers , famously boasting 365. At Pigeon Point Beach, a 10-minute walk from South Point Hotel, you’ll find what seems like an endless stretch of sugary, white sand and calm, turquoise waters. Right on the beach, there's a laid-back shack, called Bumpkins, where shirt and shoes are not required, but your appetite for jerk chicken and freshly blended Piña Coladas are . If you're looking for a luxury hideaway, check out one of the most sought-after spots in Antigua, at Cocobay Resort . The Sheer Rocks Couples Pool Experience offers a beautiful, private infinity pool overlooking the Caribbean Sea + tapas + drinks + mongooses. Fancy getting out on the open water? Hire Captain George and his first officer, Rasheem, to sail you around the coastline of Antigua. Book your charter through Gadaboat . Then , simply show up, eat, drink, snorkel and enjoy! My visit happened to coincide with the Antigua Charter Yacht Show , which meant that there were a ton of superyachts on showcase. It also meant that the island's party scene was in full force. CONSUME Antigua has an established (and underrated) food scene where you can find nearly any flavor. MAIA , at the South Point Hotel is a stunning and delicious place to dine, for breakfast (included if you're staying at South Point), lunch or dinner. Colibri is so good that we went twice - once for my birthday and again on our final night. This bistro offers a romantic, charming setting, genuine hospitality and a creative fusion of French and Créole cuisines. It is both chic and laid-back at the same time. It's been awarded TripAdvisor ’s  'Travelers’ Choice' award in 2022, 2023 & 2024, 'Top Choice' award by Lonely Planet and it has been named in many 'Best of Antigua' lists. Highly recommend. From the same group behind Sheer Rocks, Catherine’s Cafe is a beachfront French cafe tucked into the southern part of Pigeon Point Beach. The restaurant has a St. Tropez-esque beach club vibe with daybeds, live music and wicker furniture. Enjoy a sumptuous lunch at an elegant beachfront setting. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Getting Around : Antigua is only about 14 miles long and 11 miles wide, but it somehow takes about 45-minutes to get anywhere on the island. If you rent a car, be sure to know that they drive on the left side of the road. We opted to take a taxi everywhere, which was expensive, but convenient. Currency : One of the most important things to know is that there are two currencies in circulation: USD and Eastern Caribbean Dollars are both accepted, but EC Dollars are the official currency. Be sure to confirm which currency is being quoted/shown. Tipping : It is customary to tip 10-15%. Many restaurants automatically add a 10% service charge to your bill, so check your receipt to avoid double tipping. Biting Critters : Bug repellent + after bite is a must! Mosquitos were out in full force, and we were feasted on. There were also pesky sand flies at the beach. When To Go : Antigua is a year-round holiday destination that is busiest from mid-December to around Easter. Officially, the Caribbean hurricane season runs from June to November, with September and October the most likely time for storms Electrical : Standard voltage is 230V and they use US plugs. We experienced power outages several times. Water : Tap water is certainly safe to clean your teeth with, and ice should be fine, but I would recommend drinking bottled water, rather than tap. Fun Fact : It’s illegal to wear camouflage clothing.

Nearly three years ago I decided that I wanted to move to the UK. It took a lot of persistence and patience, but it finally happened! On August 27, 2014 I made the transition from San Francisco to London. For any of you out there who are wanting to make a similar move, below is a succinct list of things that had to happen to make my move successful, as well as some tips I learned along the way. Keep in mind that I have now only been in the UK one whole week, but I thought I’d post this list before I forget anything. Get a job! This may sounds easier than it is. I tried everything. I applied directly to companies in London, but inevitably got turned down because of the visa. The UK is also experiencing high unemployment, so it’s difficult to justify bringing foreigners in to do a job that someone in the UK could likely do. I learned that the best (and easiest) way to obtain a visa is by transferring with your current company, assuming they are global. As long as you have been with your company at least 12 months and they have a UK office, it’s not very difficult, nor expensive, for your company to sponsor you. It did take about a year of interviewing before I finally got an offer though. Negotiate! I desperately tried to negotiate a higher rate of pay, but London doesn’t seem to compensate all that well (which is strange considering the high cost of living). Since I couldn’t squeeze too much more money out of my company, I got a bit crafty and negotiated for things like relocation, transportation reimbursement, private healthcare and a flight home each year. I also had to negotiate my start date to give myself time to move. I was lucky and wasn’t in a lease in SF, but that’s another consideration to keep in mind. Relocation Funding – If you manage to negotiate some relocation money, ask for an advance on it. My company initially wanted me to keep all my receipts and then submit for reimbursement, but I insisted on receiving a wire transfer up front (which was not taxed). It was really handy having a chunk of money in advance, for all my moving costs. Visa – The UK residency permit and visa system now operates on a points-system. The Tier 1 route is now only open to Entrepreneurs, Investors, Exceptional Talent and Graduate Entrepreneurs. Tier 2 is main route for work visas which must be sponsored by a UK employer. The Tier 2 (General) permit is an option if the company can demonstrate your job cannot be filled by a local British worker. If you are transferring with your existing employer you can get a Tier 2 (ICT – intra-company transfer) visa. I am on a 5 year ICT visa. At the end of the 5 years, I have no chance of renewal. If possible, I would recommend requesting a Tier 2 General visa. My request for this was declined as it doesn’t benefit the company as much as it would benefit me. The ICT visa will not lead to settlement in the UK and makes it impossible to switch employers. If you’re planning to stay in the UK forever, the ICT visa is not the way to go. But beggers can’t be choosers, so here I am with my ICT visa. Plan Travel – First, I bought my one-way flight (eeeeeek!). Second, the moment I signed my offer letter, I bought the New York Times: 36 Hours 125 Weekends in Europe book. I have already started planning multiple European weekend adventures. Find a Flat – This is easier said than done. Who in their right mind would rent to someone who doesn’t have proof of employment, a bank account or any sort of credit? Luckily, I have a generous friend who is allowing me to crash with him until I find a suitable flat. If you don’t have friends there who can help you out, you’re going to need some sort of corporate housing or temporary accommodation (hotel or short-term housing). Once I actually find a flat, I can provide some more insight on this point (update here ). Right now I’m just focusing on exploring southwest London and finding the right area of the city for me. Send a Piece of Mail – You may be required to provide proof of residence in some instances. I would recommend sending yourself a piece of mail (from the US, to your new address). If you don’t yet know your address, you can probably use your work address in the interim. UK Bank Account – My friends in the UK recommended Barclays over all the other bank options. I went to their website and it turns out that you can actually apply for a Barclays bank account in advance . Upon arrival in the UK, you’ll just need to arrange a visit at one of the branches and bring the proper documentation (passport and proof of residence – that piece of mail you previously sent comes in handy now). In theory, setting this up in advance allows Barclays to review your application and complete their initial identification checks in advance. Sounds easy, right? It should have been, but it turns out that I was only the second person in the whole of the UK who has ever used this pre-application process. Because of that, it took about 2 hours sitting in the Barclays office and in the end I still had to call the next day before all my bank details and card were shipped to me. US Bank Account – I felt that I still needed an American bank account even though I won’t be accessing it often, mainly for having some dollars when I am back in the States or if I have to reimburse anyone in the US for anything, etc. I had Bank of America in the US. Don’t even get me started on how terrible they are. I tried to explain my situation to them, but they didn’t seem to care and weren’t willing to work with me, so after 10 years of being a BOA customer, I went ahead and closed my checking and savings accounts. There are far too many fees and in order to eliminate the fees, direct deposit and monthly transfers to a savings account are necessary. Since I won’t have any income in the US moving forward, these things are impossible. After a significant amount of research, I decided to open a Charles Schwab Brokerage account and linked a checking account to it. There are no minimum balance fees, no foreign transaction fees and all ATM fees are reimbursed. After setting up the Barclays account, I simply withdrew all my cash from Schwab and deposited it directly into my shiny new account. No wire fees, no hassles. It took a lot of patience to set up the Schwab account and it was all pretty confusing, but they have friendly customer service and, in the end, it’s a far better option than Bank of America. National Insurance (NI) Number – National Insurance is similar to Income Tax. It is designed to provide certain retirement benefits (state pension and Social Security). I did a bit of research on obtaining the NI number and it seems that it’s not that difficult to obtain, once you have your visa, but it can be tedious. I read, in several places, that it’s well worth the $50 to pay a company like Sable International to help get it set up for you. Again, you can do some of this in advance. Once you physically enter the UK, on your visa, Sable International will start your paperwork. They will send you a packet, which you’ll need to check over, sign and return to them. Then, they will submit your application on your behalf. You need a local address and phone number in order to do any of the initial set-up ahead of time. You’ll also need to submit images of your passport and your stamped visa before Sable will begin working on your application. Renter’s Insurance – Luckily for me, my US renter’s insurance was due to renew in August. I called State Farm and was able to just pay for one more month, instead of renewing the whole policy for another year. Once I find a new residence in the UK, I plan to set up a 'contents insurance' policy with Endsleigh . Identity Protection – Likewise, I cancelled my LifeLock account, since they don’t cover anyone who has an address outside of the United States. It seems that ID fraud protection comes standard with all UK credit cards, so it doesn’t appear to be something that I need to look into. Credit Cards – I paid off all my US credit cards before leaving the country. I didn’t want to have to worry about paying transaction fees or dealing with exchange rates. I do have one card that doesn’t incur any international fees, so I may have to use that until I can sort out a local UK credit card. Since I have no credit in the UK, my options were basically limited to opening up a starter account with Barclays or to sign up for an Amex card. Amex offers a Global Card Transfer Service to support their card members when moving from one country to another. They will reference your payment history and standing when going through the approval process for your new card. You’ll need your old card number and a home address/phone number in your new country. Doctor Appointments – I cancelled any/all remaining appointments for the rest of this year and early next year. I rescheduled whichever ones my current insurance would allow for. I figured it would be easier to get them all done before I leave, since I already have all my doctors in place. I also refilled all prescriptions before leaving. That way, I am not rushed to immediately find a new general practitioner in the UK. Healthcare – I was only be covered by my insurance until my final day of work in the US. However, once you enter the UK and have a visa, you should be covered by National Healthcare. My company is also providing me with private healthcare. I haven’t had to use it yet, so I can’t provide too many details, but I do know that it operates like an HMO. You’ll need to find a general practitioner and then get referrals for specialty doctors. Also, something to consider, you’ll need to invest in travel insurance for whenever you leave the UK, since other countries will not accept the UK's national healthcare. It’s nominal, but worth remembering to sign up for. Many companies offer these sorts of programs: HSBC, AMEX, 1st Contact, InsureandGo, etc. Personal Appointments – Like with doctors, you know all the people in your current city, so take advantage of that and go get waxed, spray tanned, haircuts, etc. before you depart. Plus, these services are likely to be cheaper Stateside than in the UK. I also set up an appointment with the DMV and renewed my license, one year ahead of time, so it will be valid for 4 more years while I’ll be living in the UK. Packing – I bought some boxes, bubble wrap and tape…The basics. As I started to pack, I realized that I had waaaaaay more stuff than I had anticipated. I brought about 6 garbage bags filled with stuff to Good Will. I also posted stuff for sale on Craig’s List (like my bed, glassware that likely won’t survive the move and appliances that won’t work in the UK). Next I worked out how many suitcases I could actually bring with me on the plane, for free. Because I am flying United over to London and I have Platinum status with them, I can check 3 bags (up to 70lbs each). I can also then carry-on my regular two pieces. As I packed, I kept an inventory of everything in each box/suitcase. This is not only helpful for organizational purposes, but also necessary for customs when you ship boxes overseas. Shipping – I weighed and measured each box. TIP: Be sure to add several pounds on to each box. Shipping companies LOVE to charge you overage fees if boxes are underweight. And the fees are way more than the extra couple of bucks you’ll pay initially for just adding on a few pounds. Once I had all the weight and dimension information, I was able to go online and price out my options. I looked into UPS, FedEx, DHL, USPS and several private shipping companies. USPS was, by far, the best value. They don’t have a good reputation, but I was willing to risk it to save several thousand dollars. I paid about $100/box versus the $350/box that UPS/FedEx were quoting me. Also, if you print off your own postage online at USPS.com , it’s about 15% less than at a retail location. USPS will also come collect your boxes from your place, for free, if you can be around between 2pm and 4pm on a weekday (at least in my area). What I didn’t do correctly was fill out the right customs paperwork. If you are moving from outside the UK, and have lived there for at least 12 months, you shouldn’t be subject to customs duties/import VAT taxes. All your belongings must have been in your possession for at least 6 months and must be for personal use only. Since I neglected to use proper documentation, I was charged approximately £900 in fees/taxes by the Border Force, on behalf of HMRC (Her Majesty’s Revenue & Customs). I am now fighting the fees, but who knows how that will go. I'm not very hopeful. Update Address – Luckily my parents allowed me to use their address going forward. I updated the address on all my credit cards and at all my banks to their address and also had my mail forwarded there, from San Francisco. Additionally, I changed my address in my old HR system so W2’s and such will be sent somewhere safe. My parents have been kind enough to send photos of every piece of mail they have received. I then instruct them to discard, save or post to me. Transportation – The cost of transportation in London is more than I had expected. Get yourself an Oyster Card straight away. It’s good for all transportation within London. Mobile Phones - I'm afraid I can't be of much help in this department. My company ordered my phone for me, in advance, set it up and pays the bills. You'll want to get a phone immediately, since a number is required to set up most accounts. I am on Vodafone and it seems to be just fine, if that helps. Update Your Stuff! - Once you have arrived, go ahead and update your new city on Facebook, your LinkedIn account/resume, your iTunes, your time zones on your computer, etc. It felt really good to make it all official! Know the Basics - Great Britain is the name of the island on which England, Scotland and Wales are situated. It is not a country. The UK (United Kingdom) consists of England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales. England is simply the largest and most populated portion of the United Kingdom. Don't confuse Great Britain with England. The Scots, Northern Irish and Welsh find it very offensive. Whatever you do, don't call the Scots, Northern Irish or Welsh "English." Be Prepared for the Weather! It rains more in England than you may be used to, although it is not as wet or dismal as has also been portrayed through ill-informed American media. Although it has very long, bright and remarkably pleasant days in summer, winter days are short and it can be dark for long periods of time. In the winter you will get about 5 hours of sunlight. If you know that you will miss the sun, get a room with a south facing window. #relocation #moving #us #uk #tips #usa #unitedstates #unitedkingdom

A university town, less than 30-minutes from Marseille, with a population of about 145k, Aix-en-Provence is big enough to be lively, but small enough to explore in two days. Aix is full of sun-drenched, cobbled streets, elegant architecture, refined fountains and picturesque squares. It’s known for its markets, art museums and as the birthplace of rosé. Rosé is more than just a specialty in this region; it's a way of life! Here’s how to spend the perfect weekend in Aix-en-Provence. CHECK-IN Le Pigonnet  is an excellent hotel to base your stay. The former private estate is a short walk from the city center with buildings dating back to the 18th century, all currently being renovated. The grounds and gardens are beautiful, and the staff are super helpful, professional and courteous. CONSUME Start your day off with breakfast or brunch at Kava . The little gem is fairly small, and they don't take bookings, so be prepared to wait on the weekend. But it's worth it! I had the Eggs Factor with two fried eggs, mushrooms and hashbrowns. I also tried the bacon and truffle gouda. I highly recommend all of it! For a bistro serving French and Provençal cuisine, p op by Le Ramus . The staff is uniformly charming and attentive, and the courtyard is a lovely spot to enjoy al fresco dining. I asked our hotel concierge where to get the best croissants in Aix and there was no hesitation directing me to Maison Weibel . Go and enjoy all things baked - deserts, pastries, tarts, etc. La Petite Ferme  is a chic, contemporary brasserie showcasing dishes from all over the world, but specializing in a wide choice of meat (cooked over embers, spit-roasted or in a wood-fired oven). For a unique setting, try La Table du Pigonnet . This gourmet restaurant is located within the enchanting gardens of the historic Le Pigonnet hotel, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Book ahead to guarantee a table. I have no idea why Le Singe Vert  is called The Green Monkey, but it's a very cute spot, centrally located on the Cours Mirabeau promenade. Stop by and enjoy a cocktail whilst watching the world go by. I would not recommend going for a meal, but definitely worth it for a beverage. DO A weekend visit to Aix wouldn’t be complete without exploring the city’s famous markets on a Saturday. Start with the market along the city’s main thoroughfare, Cours Mirabeau. This central avenue is taken over by dozens of stands selling Provençal textiles and clothing. At the end, go left and make your way toward Place de Verdun for vendors selling local produce, olive oils, tapenades and honeys. From there, weave through the narrow streets to the Place l’Hôtel-de-Ville, where you’ll find the flower market. Take a tour to from Aix-en-Provence to discover the vines and wines of the famed Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence  appellation . I did this Half Day Wine Tasting Tour , which took a small group of five us to Bargemone & Château Paradis , to try 12 acclaimed rosés, reds and whites. Aix-en-Provence is a sophisticated and cultural city break destination, bursting with Provençal charm. Although you can see most of Aix in a matter of days, it's also a fantastic base from which to take day trips around the region. I will definitely go back at some point to experience more of Provence.

Most people associate Zürich with banking and high-end watches. And they'd be accurate, but there's also so much more to this historic, alpine city. It's o ne of the top-rated cities in the world for well-being, quality of life and satisfaction. It has castles, forts, churches, museums, a great nightlife and delicious food/wine. It's known for its walkable streets, fairy-tale architecture and high-end boutiques and it's perfect for a short break. Your itinerary should include a mix of meandering through narrow alleyways, cruising on the river, visiting museums, drinking Swiss wine, indulging in local delicacies and chasing waterfalls. Below are my recommendations for maximizing your weekend in this lovely city. STAY: The Hotel Wellenberg is situated right in the heart of the Old Town, which is a quaint area that's centrally located, beside the Limmat River. The bar, terrace, library and the breakfast were all great (and were accurately pictured on their website), but the rooms were a bit dated and not nearly as nice as they were represented on the hotel's site. Although I would probably stay in a different hotel, if I went back, I would still want to stay in Old Town. I would look at the Widder Hotel and/or the Storchen . DO/SEE: Stroll around the Altstadt (Zürich's historic Old Town), exploring its cobbled streets, shops, bars and touristy restaurants. Take a river cruise along the Limmat to see the city from a different perspective. The boat starts at Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum) and takes about an hour, roundtrip. If you only have time for one gallery, make it the Kunsthaus Zurich art museum. This houses over 95k pieces of work, including sculptures, paintings and sketches that date from the 15th century to the present day.  The Matthew Wong/Vincent Van Gogh exhibit is excellent. But my absolute favorite is the beautiful a nd mesmerizing Pipilotti Rist art installation - made up of 3,000 multicolored LED lights set to music. It was so soothing; I could have watched for hours. I highly recommend taking a trip to the spectacular Rhine Falls (only about a 35-minute drive away, if there's no traffic). It is possible to take the train and plan the whole trip yourself, but the private half-day tour we took was well worth the price. Our guide, Martin, was prompt, knowledgeable, funny and had everything sorted for us ahead of time. When we arrived at the falls, we walked down to the various, tiered viewing platforms to see the roaring falls up close. Then we took a very short ferry across the upper Rhine River to board our 15-minute boat ride, which took us right up to the falls. The 15-minute boat ride operates between April and October. The best views are from the front of the vessel, but you will get sprayed if you sit there. On the way back from the waterfalls, since we went when it wasn't all that busy, we had extra time. Martin did a bit of research and found us a place to wine taste, right by a castle, in a picturesque Swiss village. We stopped at Nadine Saxer for some (free) tastings of various pinot noirs and sauvignon blancs. The place was modern and beautiful, and the wines were delicious. Prior to this trip, I had no idea how good Swiss wines were because they don't really export them. Then we drove by Walt Castle. We couldn't get too close though, because it's privately owned. EAT/DRINK: Le Dézaley is a cozy Zurich institution that has been serving up fondue, charcuterie and other Swiss classics for over 120 years. It's touristy, but it delivers! The space is huge and packed. Our service was attentive and friendly. The cheese fondue, and all the fixings, were top-notch and the white wine was delicious. La Muña is located on the sixth floor of the La Réserve Eden au Lac Zürich Hotel. The Peruvian-Japanese inspired menu is filled with ceviche, sushi and steak, complemented with a very impressive wine list. With its antique-style furniture, age-old wooden floors, mysterious objects and spectacular dome, the interior is reminiscent of a cruise ship from the turn of the century. End your evening with a nightcap at the legendary Tina cigar and whisky bar. If you can handle the smoke, it's an intimate, sexy spot known by every full-blooded citizen of Zürich. In just a couple days, you can really explore the depths of Zürich and get a sense of its rich history, elegant culture and gorgeous setting.

The Korean version of ‘say cheese’ is ‘say kimchiiiiiii’, which is as amusing as it is effective for eliciting big smiles in pictures. And boy do the South Koreans love a photo-op. Kimchi is not just an adorable grin prompt though, it's also a delicious superfood and a symbol of identity and pride for Korean people. It has been an integral part of Korean food culture for thousands of years. You can count on this salted and fermented cabbage, seasoned with spices, being served as a side dish ( banchan ) with every meal in South Korea. There is so much more to Korean cuisine than just kimchi though. Food, in general, holds a huge cultural significance in South Korea. It is as much for nourishment as it is for mental well-being and for bringing families together. A meal in Korea is a communal event, usually with one large, shared dish and a plethora of sides. Koreans prefer to dine out, rather than eat at home, so finding good food in South Korea is quite an easy task. O ptions range from casual bites at market stalls and experimental street food pop-ups to traditional tea houses and five-star restaurants. It’s not uncommon for Koreans to wait in line for hours or travel long distances to eat something specific. Sink your teeth into the ultimate Korean experience with my recommendations for where to stay, what to do, and, most importantly, where to eat in Seoul and Jeju Island. Quick Links: Seoul Jung-gu Jungnang-gu Gangnam-gu Han River Jongno-gu Dongdaemun-gu Songpa-gu DMZ Day Trip Jeju Island Jeju Town Southwest Jeju East Jeju Know Before You Go  Seoul, South Korea’s capital and largest city is full of contrasts. It's a place where tradition and modernity co-exist. 21st-century skyscrapers tower above ancient palaces and 600-year-old wooden houses whilst a web of exposed wires and unsightly cables hang overhead in a city renowned for its digital communications infrastructure and smart city initiatives. This formerly impoverished city, decimated by the Korean War, is now one of the most prosperous and high-tech places in the world but remains rooted in the past in many ways. Seoul is also the center of the 'Korean Wave' that is sweeping the world. As Korean dramas, film, music and beauty reach wider audiences abroad, more and more visitors are coming to Seoul to experience Korea's rich culture. With the division of the nation and its proximity to North Korea, some might think Seoul is a risky place to visit, but it's one of the safest places in the world for foreign travelers. Crime rates are low, gun violence is nonexistent, the population is hospitable, medical facilities are cutting-edge and the police are capable. Plus, Hechi, Seoul's mascot, is widely regarded as the city's divine guardian, who represents justice and protects people. Seoul is a massive metropolis, with a ( rapidly declining ) population of ~10 million. The city has 25 districts ( gu ), divided into 522 sub-districts ( dong ), with the artificially shaped Han River running through the middle. To maximize time and limit transit, I've split out my recommendations for exploring Seoul by district. I didn't have time to visit all 25, but I did get to see many of the notable attractions. JUNG-GU Myeongdong, a sub-district of Jung-gu, is probably the most popular shopping district in the entire city. Pop into Myeongdong Main LOTTE Department Store  for Sulwhasoo  premiere Korean skin care products, interesting apparel and intriguing food court snacks. Myeongdong is also one of the most popular areas for tourists to stay because it is centrally located. From luxury to budget, there is something for everyone in this district. I stayed at upscale THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection ,  for just shy of a week. There's a spa, fitness center, indoor swimming pool and six onsite restaurants. The rooms offer high-tech amenities , plush bedding and views of downtown Seoul. Myeongdong is walking distance to a variety of tourist spots, including the following: It is said that the best panoramic views of the city are from N Seoul Tower, situated on top of Namsan Mountain. I can neither confirm nor deny as the day I visited was wet, cloudy and grey. Visibility was zero, as you can see in my photo below. To get there you can either hike or buy tickets for the Namsan Park Cable Car . Then you'll need to buy a subsequent ticket up to the N Seoul Observatory . Do not visit Seoul without seeing Nanta . It is impossible not to be entertained by this cooking comedy filled with K-beats, singing, drumming, acrobatics, dancing, comical martial arts, some rather dangerous knife-work, audience participation, juggling, slapstick and even some simple magic tricks.  Not speaking Korean does not affect the enjoyment. Nanta is the longest-running show in Korean history and still sells out, so buy tickets in advance ( Get Your Guide ) . It's worth nothing that photography is forbidden during the performance. If you want to try traditional Korean BBQ, fried chicken and/or dumplings, I suggest the following restaurants in the Myeongdong area: At Arirang Restaurant , you'll get top-notch Korean BBQ, prepared on a charcoal grill at your table. The meats are all premium cuts and it is one of the few restaurants in Seoul with Western wine options on the menu!  Two Two Chicken is one of the most popular KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) joints, with over a hundred branches. I ate at the City Hall location. The chain has been around over 30 years and is known for its special frying pressure machines, batter and secret sauce. It's a no-fuss, laid-back place with a simple interior and limited menu. When I went, it was full of businessmen, enjoying ChiMaek ( chicken and beer) after work. Myeongdong Kyoja Main Store  only offers four menu items: Kalguksu (handmade noodle soup), Mandu (dumplings), Bibimguksu (spicy wheat noodle) and Kongguksu (bean noodles). Seoul restaurants with limited menus are great because they focus on perfecting their dishes rather than diversifying. Order at a touchscreen kiosk, take your receipt with you to the third floor, sit and then wait to be served. It's all very casual, with a simple decor. You'll find cutlery/chopsticks and tiny napkin tissues in the drawer under the table. Expect hefty portions at affordable prices. The place is packed day and night. JUNGNANG-GU Yongma Land (AKA Magic Land) is a small, failed children's amusement park in northeastern Seoul that has become popular amongst photographers, Instagrammers and people reproducing videos to mimic their favorite K-pop artists. It’s not the most common attraction, but it’s a cool spot if you want to see something unique in the capital of Korea. You need cash to enter (10k per person). I would also suggest bringing your own toilet paper, in case nature calls. GANGNAM-GU Gangnam is the Beverly Hills of Seoul. It's a playground for celebrities and the wealthy. It's not uncommon to see people walking around with bandages after undergoing high-end cosmetic surgery. Gangnam gained international attention in 2012 after Psy released his mega-hit 'Gangnam Style'. In fact, the song has been iconified by a giant pair of bronze hands, modeled after the signature hand motion from the song, that sits in front of the east entrance to the COEX Mall. If you enter the mall through that east gate, by the hands statue, you'll find yourself in the largest underground shopping mall in Asia and right by the beautiful Starfield Library . This library is beyond impressive! It is open to the public and free of charge. Most of the books are real, however the ones on the very top shelves are decorative. HAN RIVER I thought seeing Seoul from a boat would be a nice way of gaining an alternative perspective, so I booked a 40-minute, daytime, Eland River Cruise , which I wanted to love, but didn't. Perhaps a moonlight or fireworks cruise would be a bit less boring? The most entertaining part of my boat trip was watching the kids onboard feed the seagulls. For some reason Korean passport holders are unable to go on these cruises, so you'll have to show your passport as proof of being foreign. If you do go on one of these river cruises, be sure to pre-arrange transportation, both ways. Drivers had a difficult time finding the dock. JONGNO-GU You can easily spend a whole day exploring this district, with its abundance of tourist attractions...And I suggest you do. Here's an itinerary for you to follow (pick any day other than a Tuesday, when the palace is shut). Start the morning off, bright and early, with breakfast at one of Seoul's most popular cafes - London Bagel Museum (Anguk Branch) . It opens at 8am, but queues form long before that. I attempted to go, but it was a five-hour wait to eat inside and a two-hour wait for take away...FOR BAGELS! And London isn't even known for bagels. I ended up at Randy’s Donuts , just down the road, instead. After breakfast, walk about five minutes to Bukchon Hanoi Village . This famous neighborhood was originally home to high-ranking government officials and nobility. Today, it's full of restored traditional Korean houses, called hanok . While some hanoks have been converted into cafes, restaurants and museums, about 80% of the dwellings remain residential. T his popular tourist destination has caused some friction with the residents, so be respectful and quiet while you’re walking the narrow alleys. Jogyesa Temple , your next destination, is about a 20-minute walk from Bukchon Hanoi Village. If you’re expecting the tranquility and quiet reflections often associated with Buddhist temples, Jogyesa might be disappointing. Although it is the birthplace of Korean Buddhism and is highly symbolic, it's also right smack in the center of the city. For lunch, chow down on dumplings at Gaeseong Mandu Koong  (Insadong The Main location). This traditional mandu house has been family-run for over 70 years and Michelin has awarded them a Bib Gourmand designation every year since 2017. You'll have an opportunity to burn off some of your mid-day meal on the 20-minute stroll over to Gyeongbokgung Palace . Be sure to arrive in time for the 2pm Royal Guard Ceremony (there is also a ceremony at 10am). It's a 20-minute reenactment of the guard-changing procedure that took place during the Joseon dynasty. Costumes and weapons have been reproduced, based on historical records. Knock around for a bit and kill some time before making your way to Gwangjang Market , at 7pm, to meet up with your group for the Night Market Food Tour  with Jae (be sure to pre-book). This market is a chaotic paradise of food with some of the best bites in Seoul. There's steam raising from everywhere and vendors will shout at you. The market, which is one of the oldest and largest traditional markets in South Korea , is home to the Netflix ‘knife-cut noodle lady’, Cho Yonsoon, who appeared in episode six of the Netflix: Street Food Asia series. Below are the dishes the group enjoyed during this food tour: Mayak Kimbap (addictive - as in dangerously irresistible - seaweed-wrapped rice rolls) Tteokbokki (traditional spicy rice cakes) Kimchi and Yachae Mandu (kimchi and vegetable dumplings) Kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) Dakbal (spicy chicken feet) Yukhoe (raw beef) Sannakji (live octopus that tried to escape) Nokdu Bindaetteok (mung bean pancake) Ttukbaegi Bulgogi (soy-marinated beef with broth) Makgeolli (rice wine), Soju (distilled rice wine) and Maekju (beer) Bibimbap (mixed rice with vegetables) Kkwabaegi (a twisted donut - like a churro) DONGDAEMUN-GU The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, often referred to as 'DDP' by locals, has been likened to a flying saucer or a giant mushroom. If the building itself isn't cool enough, there are often interesting artistic exhibitions happening. When I was in Seoul, it was the final night of the DDP 2024 Autumn Light Show . SONGPA-GU Get ready to look down on Seoul from the top of the LOTTE  World Tower skyscraper, which stands 555.7 meters tall and looks a heck of a lot like the Shard in London. Seoul Sky is the name of the observation area located on floors 117-123 of the tower. It's the third highest observatory globally and features the highest glass deck in the world (on floor 120). I had lunch on the 123rd floor, at 123 Lounge . It is suggested that you book in advance as the restaurant is quite small, but I was able to talk my way in without a reservation. DMZ DAY TRIP The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a famous tourist destination in South Korea, about an hour's drive north of Seoul. I opted for a nine-hour tour, with about 20 other people, on a bus. If I had to do it over again, I would have splurged for a smaller or private tour. The DMZ was established in 1953 to act as a buffer between the North and the South, dividing the Korean Peninsula almost in half. The Zone is 250 km long and about 4 km wide. It is one of the most heavily militarized borders in the world. There are no troops in the DMZ itself, but the area is closely monitored because, theoretically, the two countries are still at war. The Korean Armistice Agreement was designed to temporarily stop the conflict, back in 1953, whilst a more permanent solution was established. But 70+ years later, that solution has still not been found. Before you decide if you want to go to the DMZ, it's worth knowing that the general public are currently unable to visit the Joint Security Area (JSA), which is where tourists were famously allowed to step across the border into North Korea. The JSA has been off limits since July 2023 due to a foolish American soldier who made a run for it across the border. It's unclear when or if the JSA will reopen to tourists. Although disappointing to not be able to visit the JSA, it's still worth going to the DMZ, if you want to learn about the ongoing conflict between North and South Korea. Below are the places my tour stopped. Imjingak Park, located 7 km from the Military Demarcation Line, was the starting point . It was built in 1972 to console those who are unable to return to their hometowns, friends or families because of the division of Korea. It's full of statues and monuments dedicated to those who were separated and it's a place where South Koreans can tie colorful prayer ribbons, with messages of peace and reunification wishes . Stop number two was Gamaksan Suspension Bridge, a 220 m long and 10 m high bridge built across the Gamaksan Valley, in memory of British soldiers who fought for South Korea in the Korean War. This bridge commemorates the sacrifices the British Army made in a foreign land. Next, we visited the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel or 3rd Tunnel of Aggression. It got its names from being the third (of four) tunnels that South Korea discovered after North Korea attempted to invade them by building a series of tunnels under the border. The North Koreans were caught before any of the tunnels were completed. Visitors to the 3rd Tunnel must go through a passport checkpoint and wear a hardhat. Photos are not permitted, but I managed to sneak my phone through security (shhh). The tunnel's ceiling is low, and if you're any taller than me (5 feet), you can expect to bump your head a lot. After the bridge and tunnel experience, it was time for lunch, which consisted of a buffet at the Unification Village. We passed through another checkpoint when leaving lunch, where the soldiers came on to our bus to check all of our passports individually. The final stop, the Dora Observatory, was the highlight of the tour, by far. Visiters are encouraged to peer into North Korea, with provided binoculars, to see the north's propaganda villages (intended to show the south that the north is a good place to live). This is probably as close as I'll ever get to one of the world's most mysterious nations. Situated 85 km off the south coast of South Korea, the fastest and most convenient way to get from Seoul to Jeju Island is to traverse the friendly skies. Gimpo and Incheon Airports both offer frequent flights, with a travel time of just over an hour. Fun fact: Seoul-Jeju is the busiest domestic flight route  in the world. Jeju is a fascinating and unusual place, full of untamed landscapes and wacky tourist attractions. It's a true paradise if you are a nature lover. In fact, the island has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site , a Global Geopark  and a Biosphere Reserve . It's also in good company as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature . Jeju is South Korea's crown jewel and a very popular destination all year round. My time there coincided with Korean Thanksgiving or Chuseok , one of the most significant holidays in Korea, making it wildly busy. Although not very big (2.5 times larger than Singapore) , Jeju, like Seoul, is best explored by area. I booked a private driver (Louis) for two days through Get Your Guide . I focused on a different part of the island each day. JEJU CITY I stayed in Jeju City, at the Hotel Regent Marine , because it was a central jumping off point and close to the airport. The hotel was on the water, but pretty basic. It served its purpose. For food in Jeju City try the following: Dongmun Traditional Market is one of Jeju's oldest traditional markets. Open daily, this market is not only famous for offering Jeju specialties and daily necessities but is also an excellent place to enjoy local dishes. Be sure to try the famous Jeju tangerines. Namyang Chicken is a casual and local spot for delicious fried chicken and beer. I highly recommend it after a long, hot day of sightseeing! Visit Black Pork Street, one of Jeju's longest-standing food streets. Pick any of the restaurants as they all specialize in grilled black pork delicacies. The meat is flavorful and grilled at your table, accompanied by endless side dishes. The stretch of seafood restaurants that line the promenade, in front of the harbor, is aptly named Sashimi Street. Each shop has tanks outside filled with lively fish, so you know it's fresh. DAY 1: SOUTHWEST JEJU The day's journey began at Camellia Hill Botanical Garden . Many of the flowers and plants were out of bloom, but it was still a beautiful and tranquil place to visit. You will notice many Dol Hareubang dotted around the gardens. These cute stone grandpa statues are thought to provide fertility and protection and are seen as the guardians of the island. After enjoying the flora, it was time to see the Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls , k nown as the 'The Pond of God.' This series of three cascades are set amidst a serene forest. The first waterfall is said to be 22 m tall, dropping into a crystal-clear plunge pool, but it only turns on after a heavy raintorm. The second fall is the most spectacular of the trio. I did not bother hiking out to the third because it required the most effort and was the smallest of the bunch. On the southern coastal edge of Jeju, is Jusangjeolli . This cliff was formed 140,000-250,000 years ago when thick basalt lava from Hallasan Mountain erupted into the sea of Jungmun. The molten lava rapidly cooled, contracted and split, forming the hexagonal black columns seen today. This is a must-see attraction for all visitors to Jeju Island. A massive lunch was up next, at a place called Sinwoosung Town, in Seogwipo City. Black pork, a bunch of side dishes and various fresh seafood were all enjoyed. The food was prepared on a grill built into the table. For the second time on this trip, my food tried to escape from me (it was abalone this time). After gorging, I took a little coastal walk to burn off some of the calories. On the way back to the hotel, Louis introduced me to Mysterious Road . This road is just a road, but it has earned its name because of a gravity-defying optical illusion. At the starting line, if you put your vehicle in neutral and take your foot off the brake, rather than moving backward, as you would have thought, it will appear like your car is rolling uphill. The countryside makes the road appear like it’s traveling uphill, but in reality, the road is on a downward slope. It's pretty wild! DAY 2: EAST JEJU It was raining in the morning, so Louis suggested going to Seonnyeo and Namuggun (The Fairy and Lumberjack Theme Park). This place was less of a theme park and more of a museum full of antique junk. It also had nothing to do with fairies nor lumberjacks, and more to do with Korean nostalgia. It turns out that ' The Fairy and the Woodcutter ' is an old Korean folktale and the museum is geared toward transporting adult Koreans back to rediscover the innocence and dreams of their childhood. Not having grown up in Korea, I found it all a bit strange, but once I embraced it for what it was, it was kind of fun...but still really odd. Next, it was onwards to one of Jeju's most iconic landmarks - Seongsan Ilchulbong . This volcanic cone, formed by eruptions over 100,000 years ago, is famous for its stunning sunrise views. I opted for an afternoon climb but was still rewarded with beautiful views. The ascent took about 30 minutes, with many stops, along a well-maintained staircase. Lunch was consumed at Deung Gyeongdol Restuarant , where I tried grilled cutlassfish, which was delicious! The famous Manjanggul Lava Tube was closed for maintenance, so Louis suggested Ilchul Land instead. I was nervous that this was going to be another quirky or gimmicky Korean 'theme park', but was pleasantly surprised to find out that it was an ecology and cultural park with a different lava tube to explore, within the Micheongul Cave . That night and trip ended with a brilliant moon lighting up Jeju Island and showing off its beauty. Korea is a place with a never-ending list of things to discover, learn and eat. There are a lot of amazing things about South Korea, but it’s the delicious food that really makes Korea such an exciting country. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Arrival : As part of a plan to support the revitalization of tourism and to commemorate ' Visit Korea Year ', a temporary visa and K-ETA exemption for travelers from 22 countries/regions has been put in place between 1st April 2023 and 31st December 2024. You can check your status here . On my flight, health declaration forms were handed out to be completed, but were never collected upon landing. However, entry forms were not provided in flight but were required upon landing. Getting Around : Kakao T is the most widely used taxi app in South Korea. There is a separate foreigner-exclusive app, but I could never get it to work. Luckily, Uber was also an option. Local taxis take cash and cards and have dispatcher services so you can communicate in English. Taxi drivers all seem to wear gloves. Public transportation is the fastest and most affordable way to get around Seoul, but I didn't use it. Map Apps: I had to use three different apps to figure out how to get anywhere in Seoul. Finding places in Seoul, using English, is easiest on Google Maps , but only public transport navigation is provided and it was unreliable. Apple Maps provide driving and walking instructions only. NAVER provided public transport, walking and driving options, but it was difficult to find destinations using English, despite being available in English. Underground : Seoul’s pedestrian sidewalks are wide, open and well paved, making walking a great option for getting around. However, there are often no crosswalks. I discovered that moving around in the subterranean world was sometimes easier to navigate than being above ground. Plus, it provided an opportunity to shop, with endless stores occupying both sides of the underground corridors. Driving : Koreans drive on the right and often adhere to traffic lights and recognize pedestrian right of way. There is a lot of traffic in Seoul at times. Electrical : Standard voltage is 220V and they use EU plugs (two round prongs). Weather : The year divides neatly into four distinct seasons. Spring (April to June) is delightful. Summer (July and August) is muggy and wet. Autumn (September to November) is usually refreshing, although it was a heat wave when I was there. Winter (December to March) is freezing cold and snowy, but dry. Tipping : Tipping is not customary in South Korea and can even be considered rude or demeaning in some cases. However, one waitress did ask specifically for a tip. In hotels and some restaurants though, you will sometimes see a 10% service charge on your bill. Drinking Water : Tap water is safe to consume. Dining Etiquette : Only one menu was ever given out when seated in a restaurant. I think this might be because all meals are served family-style, with dishes served as and when they're ready. Portions are large. Koreans generally use a spoon for rice and soup and chopsticks for all other dishes. They use scissors to cut meat and noodles. Napkins are not readily available; they are more like tissues. Tables in restaurants almost all have a 'call' button which you can press for service. You usually need to go up to pay for a meal. The server won't come to you. Drinking Traditions : It’s considered rude to refill your own drink, especially for alcohol. Always pour for others at the table and let them fill yours. Alcohol is so cheap that food must be ordered to sit at a table in a restaurant. Koreans pair their drinks with food. With BBQ/pork they drink shots of cold soju, fried chicken goes hand-in-hand with beer and pancakes with rice wine. Koreans tend to start out with a hearty meal, then move on to a cocktail bar, followed by a karaoke bar, and end in a Korean pub. Language : Korean is the official language of South Korea although Japanese, English and Mandarin are also widely spoken and understood. The Korean spoken in South Korea has been influenced by globalization since the separation from North Korea in 1948. Religion : Religion in South Korea has been characterized by a rise of Christianity and a revival of Buddhism, though the majority of South Koreans have no religious affiliation or follow folk religions. Currency : They use the South Korean won, abbreviated as KRW and the symbol is ₩ . Notes come in 1000, 5000, 10000 and 50000. Apparently, there are coins, but I never saw any. Card payments are common - and often preferred - in South Korea. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted and, in most places, you can make contactless payments with your physical card or Apple Pay. While Koreans walk around swiping everywhere and probably have no cash in their wallets, as a traveler, you’ll want to have some. Children : Koreans are family-oriented and follow family traditions. Kids are well-behaved and well-mannered since they learn to respect their elders early. However, South Korea has the lowest fertility rate in the world, with the population expected to halve by 2100. Cosmetics : Koreans are well-known for their flawless beauty and youthful appearance. The South Korean cosmetology products include unique ingredients such as volcanic clay and snail mucin. Be sure to stock up whilst you're there. K-Pop : In recent years, Korean popular music (K-pop) has made its position prominent in the global music industry. The two most popular groups BTS and BlackPink, have surpassed all cultural barriers with millions of fans worldwide. Finger Heart : This trend began in South Korea in the 1990's. It involves the index finger and thumb coming together, like a snap, to form a tiny heart. The gesture was popularized by K-pop idols, to express their love and gratitude to their fans.

Millionaires’ coastal villas, exclusive boutiques, casinos, ostentatious cars and luxury yachts are some of the things that come to mind when I think about the French Riviera. To others, Côte d'Azur is an overdeveloped victim of its own hype. Whichever side you land on, I think we can all agree that it captivates. I visited the South of France at the end of April, which was right on the cusp of the low and high seasons. From mid-April to mid-May, there's a lot of construction in Cannes and Monaco, as setups for the Film Festival and Grand Prix are in full swing. Off-season, many restaurants and beach clubs are closed and the weather isn't guaranteed to be as beach friendly. However, once 'season' begins, the coast gets a lot more expensive, crowded and booked-up, so pick your poison. My southern France mini tour began in Cannes, a sleek and glittery pleasure garden for the world’s wealthy, and a honeypot for people seduced by the glamor. I stayed, very centrally, in an Airbnb, in the quaint old quarter (Le Suquet). If you want to get a sense of where the city started, over 400 years ago, take a stroll through these steep, cobbled streets, and enjoy a drink and/or a meal at any of the subterranean bars and family-run restaurants. At the foot of the Le Suquet district, you'll find Marché Forville. Get yourself some fresh picky bits from this market to snack on. You'll thank me later! Continue your wander along Rue d’Antibes, a particularly nice place to window-shop and people watch. Then, slip on your most chic set of heels and stroll along Boulevard de la Croisette, one of the most iconic streets in France, which separates upscale boutiques from the beach. Nearby La Croisette, be sure to walk the red carpet at the Palais des Festivals, the site of the well-known Cannes Film Festival. If it's a sunny day, pop into one of the beach clubs: Hyde , CBeach or Stephanie and enjoy an Aperol (or two). Carry on with the libations at Vertigo Rooftop , located on the seventh-floor of the Radisson Blu 1835 Hotel. Don't forget to take in the views of the Mediterranean. If you're feeling hungry and you want to carry on the party from day into night, into day again, book a table at Bâoli Beach Cannes (things don't really heat up before 9/9:30pm). At midnight, the restaurant transforms into a roaring nightclub where sparkler-filled magnums are the norm. Dress to impress. After Cannes, it was onwards to Antibes, a cute port town tucked on the coast between Cannes and Nice. The train from Cannes took about 8-minutes and cost about €3. I crossed the street from the Antibes train station and walked along the marina, until I found myself in the Old Town (Vieille Ville). I could have easily spent an entire day strolling through Vieille Ville's weathered stone arches and cobblestoned paths, but I had a lunch reservation, so I had to limit my time. After walking another 35-minutes or so, I arrived at Cap d’Antibes, the southernmost point in the Antibes. Here I dined, overlooking the sea, at Plage Keller's Restaurant Le César . The final destination on my Côte d'Azur mini-tour was Nice. Often considered nothing more than a stopover town, because it is the Riviera’s main point of entry, Nice is actually quite pleasant. there’s lots to see and about 320 days of sunshine a year. In terms of where to eat, Le Plongeoir was not to be missed. It was such a unique and beautiful setting. And the food and wine was on point! I stayed in the Old Port, where I was able to admire the mega yachts and the colorful houses built into the dramatic cliffs. As far as French Riviera Old Towns go, Nice was my least favorite, but it was still worth getting lost in its labyrinth of streets for a little while. And having lunch on the rooftop at Bocca Nissa . When you're done there, head over to the Promenade des Anglais – The 7km seaside boardwalk. You can stroll along here with the blue sea and rocky beach on one side, and a string of palm trees on the other. When feeling toasty from the Riviera sun, relax and enjoy a drink at Plage Beau Rivage , Castel or one of the other beach clubs along the seafront. #cotedazur #cannes #nice #antibes #frenchriviera #southoffrance #southernfrance #mediterranean #france #europe #cannesfilmfestival #monacograndprix

If 10 years sounds like a long time, that's because it is! It’s a full decade. It's the difference between 33 and 43 candles on my birthday cake. It's how long it took to build the Colosseum. It's the amount of seasons that Friends aired. And it's now the number of years that have passed since I relocated from North America to Europe. To commemorate this anniversary, I'm sharing 10 things about the UK that still tickle me, all these years later, as well as 10 significant moments that I've experienced over the last decade. AMUSEMENTS & MUSINGS 1. LAVATORY MAPS: In a typical London eatery/pub, you'll rarely find that the loos are on the same floor as you are. In many instances, a map is required to locate the washrooms. You'll most likely have to climb or descend at least one flight of stairs, follow a narrow passageway and then complete a mini obstacle course to find the facilities. Be prepared for approximately 20-30 minutes to pass before rejoining your party. 2. LAME NAME GAME: Though you will eat superbly at many restaurants in London, you may not recognize just how glamorous, delicious nor spendy said establishment is based solely on what it's called. Many of the names are curiously obscure and/or do not encourage appetite. The following are just a few examples of class acts masked by head-scratching designations: Crazy Bear (what part of an insane, feral, carnivorous mammal doesn't whet your palette?), BiBo (are we eating or beatboxing?), Sexy Fish (just gross), Jacuzzi (this might be one of London’s most glamorous and opulent Italian eateries, but it's named after a soggy breeding ground for festering germs), One Twenty One Two (someone here is lacking the most basic of math skills ) or The Soak (sounds more like a spa than an expensive dim sum spot). 3. PRESSING BUTTONS : Locals are guilty of laughing at the hapless tube newbies hammering away at the 'open' or 'close' buttons, unaware that the doors will operate only whenever the driver decides, and no sooner. Despite their existence, the Underground door buttons serve absolutely no purpose. They are not passenger-operated and are utterly redundant. 4. THREE LIONS : I mentioned this point back in 2016, after two years (point 11) of living in the UK, but the fact still remains...England's commitment to their beloved men's national team is commendable, but football still hasn't ' come home' since 1966, despite many close encounters. Although, it would be one heck of a party if it did! 5. PRIVILEGE : After 10 years of living without, I have just about accepted that air conditioning, garbage disposals, clothes dryers and window screens are a privilege, not a right. Although these household items feature standardly in most American homes, you won’t find them in the majority of European dwellings. 6. ETIQUETTE : An excellent, and quick, way to learn the British curse words is to queue improperly or stand on the lefthand side of any escalator in Britain. 7. PHUNNY PHRASES : England and America are two nations separated by a common language. Pissed is a prime example -- In America, it's synonymous with angry, whilst in Britain it means drunk/tipsy/sloshed/wankered/trolleyed. I'm still learning to fully speak British, but some of my favorite Britishisms include - Picky bits (snacks), going out out (having a big night out), banger (great song), punching (dating someone who is out of your league), lollipop lady (crossing guard), squeaky-bum time (tense climax at the end of a sporting event), swifty (a quick, alcoholic beverage), full of beans (enthusiastic). 8. ADVERTS : TV advertisements in the UK are generally rubbish. They rarely make sense and frequently have nothing to do with what they are supposed to be promoting. However, the annual John Lewis Christmas commercials are heartwarming and have become as much a part of the festive season in the UK as tinsel and Santa. Every year, these short stories get the public talking...and sobbing. What they have to do with John Lewis though still remains a bit of a mystery. 9. BLUE PLAQUES: For over 150 years, more than 900 plaques have been placed on London buildings, humble and grand, to honor the notable women and men who have lived or worked in them. I love how these historical markers serve as permanent reminders of important contributions made to the history of this country. 10. THIRSTY THURSDAYS: Post-Pandemic, Thursdays have become the new Friday, with commuters making the final day of the work week a permanent work-from-home fixture. There's something magical and joyous about the streets of Central London filling up on a summer Thursday, as people spill out onto the pavement to enjoy a pint and the rare, pleasant weather. Collared shirts become unbuttoned, bottles pop, music levels increase and morals get looser. EXPERIENCES, ACHIEVEMENTS & DEFINING MOMENTS 1. HITCHED: After five-years of soul-destroying, yet humorous, dating in the UK, I finally found my person. Little did I know that he had been sat beside me at work all along. It took another five years before he 'Put a Ring on It', but we celebrated, with our nearest and dearest, one month before this anniversary. 2. CENTURY CLUB : London is a great place to live if you want to spread your international wings. It's a global metropolis and incredibly well-connected. During my time in Europe, I became a member of the Travelers' Century Club - having visited over one hundred of the world's countries and territories. In the past decade alone, I visited over 70 countries (the green bits on the map below), many of them on multiple occasions. 3. GLORY FORTY : Graduating from the Dirty Thirties, I entered my forties whilst living in the UK. The milestone wasn't celebrated in the Caribbean, as originally planned, because COVID was tormenting humanity, but, as a birthday miracle, England lifted its national restrictions on the exact date of my birth (2nd December), allowing me to dine in a restaurant and stay in a hotel! What a treat! 4. SPORTS : I have attended some thrilling sporting events over the past 10 years, including the round of sixteen at the FIFA World Cup in Russia  (which resulted in the host nation's penalty shootout triumph over Spain), sitting Centre Court at the prestigious Wimbledon (on a few occasions) and going to the 2024 Paris Olympics (to see France and Argentina quite literally duke it out in the football quarterfinals, in Bordeaux). 5. FESTIVALS : I'm not big on music festivals, but I love a good event. Over the past decade, the top European celebrations that I have frequented include the Running of the Bulls (Pamplona, Spain), Las Fallas (Valencia, Spain), Oktoberfest (Munich, Germany) and Carnival ( Madeira , Portugal). 6. BRITISH SUMMER SOCIAL SEASON EVENTS : There are a few 'see and be seen' London festivities that take place each summer and I have had the pleasure of attending almost all of them: Chelsea Flower Show, Royal Ascot, Polo in the Park, the Oxford vs Cambridge Boat Race, BST Hyde Park Concert Series and the Tennis Championships at Queen's Club. Still on the list is the Henley Royal Regatta. There's always next year! 7. DUAL CITIZENSHIP : No, I still don’t have my UK passport (it is on trajectory for mid-2026), but I did become a citizen of Lamb Island! Psychic illusionist, Uri Geller, bought the island, off the coast of Scotland, for £30,000, in 2009. Since buying The Lamb, Uri turned it into a micronation with its own flag, constitution and anthem. In 2022, he offered citizenship to anyone who wanted it, for $1 (£0.82 at the time). All proceeds went to charity. It would be amazing if one day Lamb Island joined the EU! 8. NEW YEARS EVE CELEBRATIONS : Over the past decade, I spent NYE in a different city each year, and in most cases, a different country. Below is the list: 2014-2015: Madrid, Spain 2015-2016: Valletta, Malta 2016-2017: Kerala, India 2017-2018: Porto, Portugal 2018-2019: Sal, Cape Verde 2019-2020: Vilnius, Lithuania 2020-2021: Surrey, UK 2021-2022: Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain 2022-2023: Muscat, Oman 2023-2024: Mexico City, Mexico & Belgrade, Serbia 9. EMPLOYEE OF THE YEAR : In 2023, I achieved peer acknowledgement in the workplace when I was voted Western Europe/META Employee of the Year by my colleagues. It was humbling and encouraging to be appreciated and recognized by my coworkers. 10. TRAVEL + LEISURE: Back in 2016, I had a photo featured in Travel + Leisure as a 'Top Editor’s Pick' for the T&L annual photo competition. This photo was taken at Blagaj Tekke ( a historic monastery ) in Bosnia & Herzegovina. My time overseas has been enriching and rewarding. I have experienced new things and places; I have gained cultural awareness and life-long relationships and I have become even more resilient and resourceful. I look forward to seeing what's in store for me, over the next 10 years of my life, wherever they may be spent! #10years #anniversary #10yearanniversary #usa #northamerica #uk #london #germany #munich #europe #move #internationalmove #expat #immigrant #livingabroad

When the Olympic lottery system launched in early 2023, I bought a pair of men's football quarter-finals tickets. I had no idea back then that I would be getting married in the summer of 2024, but serendipitously my pre-purchased tickets fell one week after the wedding, so my husband and I hopped on a plane shortly after we got hitched and escaped to Bordeaux, France to combine the Olympics with a romantic micro honeymoon. Two days before the trip we discovered that we'd be seeing the home nation battle their rival nation in a bad-tempered grudge match that would lead France to the semi-finals. Tensions between France and Argentina have been ongoing since the FIFA World Cup final in December 2022, but most recently flared up again in mid-July, when a video circulated, after the Copa América final, where Argentina's squad were recorded chanting racist songs about French players. Hostility occurred throughout the match and ultimately spilled over at full-time with 30 players/staff brawling on the field and confrontations continuing down the tunnel. This match did not promote the spirit of solidarity, friendship and fair play as intended by Olympism, with 30 fouls, 10 yellow cards and 1 red card, but it certainly was an electric and intense match to watch. Olympics aside, below is some inspiration for how to spend 48-hours in France's wine capital. ACCOMODATION We stayed at the cozy Casa Blanca B&B , which I would highly recommend. It was set in a 200-year-old building in the Les Chartrons district of Bordeaux. Chartrons is laidback, charming, vibrant and filled with boutique shops, outdoor markets and art galleries. It's a two-minute walk from a tram stop and right near Jardin Public. The rooms are the B&B were large and airy, with beautiful furnishings. And the delicious continental breakfast was served in an understated sunroom. WINE TASTING The Bordeaux region is home to more than 7,000 wine chateaux producing some 700 million bottles each year, so there’s no shortage of wines to try nor vineyards to visit . On my previous visit to Bordeaux, I went to Saint Émilion to taste, which was amazing. But, wanting to change things up a little this time, we organized a wine tasting tour through our B&B to Médoc. The tour took us to two wine estates in the Left Bank appellations of Pauillac and Haut-Médoc. Stop 1 was Château Lynch-Bages , primarily known for their Cabernet Sauvignon blended red wines. The wines of Lynch-Bages are celebrated for retaining their power and complexity – blossoming with more flavor and complexity with time and age. Our second stop was to the beautiful Château d'Agassac , where the wines have been classified as 'Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel' and are among the most highly regarded and award-winning in the Haut-Médoc region.  EATING/DRINKING Bordeaux isn’t just a city with the same name as the famous French wine though. It's also known for having some of the best food in all of France. Tiny bistros and fine dining establishments, on beautiful streets, pair their innovative menus with great wines for foodgasmic experiences. We had a lovely dinner at Le 1544 at the Gabriel Hotel, overlooking the world's largest reflecting pool, Miroir d’Eau. The bistro's cuisine was dreamy, and we paired it with a yummy bottle of 2016 Echo de Lynch-Bages to bring us full circle from our wine tasting earlier in the day. We also enjoyed a Parisian-style lunch at Brasserie 1925 , complete with snails and champagne. Hit up YARRA wine bar on your way back to the B&B, after your long day. It's located in a typical Chartrons building, in what used to be its wine cellar. The interior is a mix of an industrial bar at the front, a comfy sofa area in the middle and a terrace out back. Yarra offers a variety of wines from famous wine regions in France as well as smaller and lesser-known appellations around the world, which they love recommending. Although Bordeaux wasn't initially planned as a minimoon destination, it ended up being a perfectly romantic place to escape to for a post-wedding treat!

Hong Kong, also know as the Pearl of the Orient, is truly a gem. I only spent a few weekdays in Hong Kong, thus avoiding the ongoing weekend protests. Although I didn't observe any actual demonstrations nor violence, I did some see a bit of related graffiti and property destruction. It was also obvious that the city is emptier than usual, which is good news for tourists, as flights and hotel rooms are cheaper, the top tourist destinations have shorter-than-normal wait times and you can get into bars/restaurants of your choice, without reservations. The unfortunate, and inconvenient, side of things is that getting around has become unpredictable. Chaos is affecting services on Hong Kong’s famously efficient Mass Transit Railway (MTR) and vandalism has caused some stations to be shut down. With generally low crime rates and excellent standards of healthcare, even with the current unrest, Hong Kong still felt safe to me. Tourists should always be alert and vigilant, but deterred from visiting they should not be. Below is a suggested list of things to see and do and places to eat and drink in if you find yourself in this fabulous city for a few days. See/Do: *TRAM TO VICTORIA PEAK - The Peak Tram runs from Garden Road, up the mountain, ending at The Peak Upper Terminus, where you'll find the Sky Terrace. An adult return ticket will cost you HK$99 ($12.50 USD). The Peak is normally packed with visitors and is usually one of the most popular tourist spots in Hong Kong. To avoid long queues and crowds, I'd suggest taking the first tram up, at 7am. Given the current situation in HK, the 7am wasn't necessary for us, but we did still take an early train, with approximately four other people. Nothing actually opens at the top until 10am, but to kill time before heading up the viewing platform, I recommend that you wander around Lugard Road. It's a 2.4km pedestrian path that offers sweeping views of the city and Victoria Harbour. And it's free! In my opinion, Hong Kong has one of the best city skylines in the world, with the largest collection of buildings over 500ft (150m). The density and height of the buildings is incredible. *HOLLYWOOD ROAD - This street, in Central and Sheung Wan, on Hong Kong Island, was one of the first paved roads in HK. It was a prime trading area for sailors and smugglers, given it's proximity to the waterfront. Today, Hollywood Rd is the center of the art and antiques and a must see. *STAR FERRY: This beloved Hong Kong icon is both a mode of transportation and a very cheap means of sightseeing. To go across Victoria Harbour, from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon (or vice versa) will cost you less than one GBP/USD. *KOWLOON PARK: Escape the chaos of Tsim Sha Tsui at the tranquil Kowloon Park. Plus there's an aviary, turtles and the smallest pop-up McDonald's I've ever seen. *BIG BUDDHA - On Lantau Island, next to Po Lin Monastery, sits a very large buddha. 'Big Buddha' is the local nickname; the official name is Tian Tan Buddha. To see Big Buddha, take the MRT to Tung Chung. You'll then need to take the 25-minute Ngong Ping 360 cable car (it opens at 10am). You'll need to climb up 268 steps to see Big Buddha up close. This 34 meter tall statue weighs over 250 tons and is the second largest outdoor, bronze, seated Buddha. Eat/Drink: *TAI KWUN - After 8 years and HK$3.8 billion, the former Central Police Station, Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison were redeveloped into a cultural and shopping courtyard complex, in Central Hong Kong. Definitely pop by here for some drinks in the courtyard. *PIQNIQ ROOFTOP: This whimsical rooftop terrace is a great option for alfresco drinks and snacks served in a picnic basket. *SEVVA ROOFTOP: This is my favorite rooftop in Hong Kong. There is a 360-degree balcony offering stunning views and a sleek, elegant decor. *CHOM CHOM: Located in Hong Kong's Soho district, this is a great choice for Vietnamese fare, inspired by the street food of Hanoi. *DIN TAI FUNG: Although I went in Taipei, I just couldn't stay away. DTF is always a good idea! I went to the Tsim Sha Tsui location, on Kowloon Island. *OZONE ROOFTOP: On the 118th floor of the ICC building, within the Ritz-Carlton, you'll find Ozone, the highest bar in the world. Here you'll find unobstructed views of western Hong Kong island and Kowloon. The drinks are expensive, but it's a great viewing spot for the Symphony of Lights (SoL), which occurs every night at 8pm. *OZU BAR: This Japanese-themed bar/restaurant is a hidden gem on the bustling Hollywood Road. It's got a chilled vibe, graffiti murals, cool tunes and a stocked bar. This venue does appear to be permanently shut now, sadly (in June 2024). *SOCIAL PLACE: This modern Chinese dim sum restaurant serves delicious dishes with a unique twist, like the sweet potato piggy bun displayed below. *WOOLOOMOOLOO ROOFTOP: Not only is it fun to say, but it's also a vibrant rooftop, right in the heart of Wan Chai, offering a sky-high drinking experience. It was great to meet up with long lost friends of mine, from former days when we all used to live in San Diego. *THAIWAN: I ended up at this Wan Chai neighborhood bar late night. From what I remember, it was a casual and basic place serving up a mixture of Thai and Taiwanese themed drinks. Know Before You Go: US citizens do not need a visa, but must show proof of an onward journey (bring a printout of your flight leaving Taiwan). A landing card will need to be completed upon arrival (bring a pen). Hong Kong will not stamp your passport. They will give you a landing slip that you are supposed to hold on to until you depart (I never needed mine at time of departure). The Airport Express Travel Pass gets you return transit to/from the airport plus three consecutive days of unlimited MRT travel for $350 HKD (~$45 USD). The airport is 25-mins on the MRT from Hong Kong Station. My UK Vodafone worldwide corporate plan covered my mobile for £5/day. 'Use Uber if you want to live' is what my friends who are locals said. I used local taxi's as they were very cheap, but apparently using Uber is safer in Hong Kong. I stayed at the OZO Wesley Hotel in Wan Chai. It was a great location, comfortable and affordable. As a result of the protesting, security has been enhanced at the airports, so allow yourself enough time when you depart (at least two hours). #hongkong #china #eastasia #asia #hongkongisland #kowloon #pearloftheorient #asiasworldcity #bigbuddha #tiantanbuddha #victoriapeak #ritzcarlton #ozone #wooloomooloo #sevva #piqniq #rooftops

Casablanca is one of the more overlooked cities in Morocco. It is the country's largest city, the cultural capital and the economic heartbeat. It's also the most liberal and progressive of Morocco’s cities. And yet, it is often bypassed by foreign visitors. Maybe this is because the city’s modern appearance doesn't fit with the romantic vision conjured up when we envision Morocco? The 'white city' is beautiful in its own way, but it is not for the faint of heart. It is congested and rough in parts. Vendors will be in your face, people seem to constantly be arguing and the pollution can be overwhelming. If you aren't deterred by the culture shock and find yourself in Casa, below are my recommendations. ACCOMODATION I stayed at the Hyatt Regency Casablanca, just a few steps away from the Medina and the Art Deco buildings, in the historical center of Casablanca. If you're there with the sole intention of lazing by the pool, I'd suggest checking that there isn't a private event going on during your stay and/or that the pool has been opened for the season. SEE/DO The Old Medina is a bazaar, where craftsmen and merchants sell leather goods, antiques, shoes, lanterns, linens, spices and knock-off handbags. If you go early in the morning, even on a weekend, it's fairly quiet in the souk. It's not nearly as frenetic as the medina in Marrakech. Allow yourself to get lost in the little alleyways and hidden corners. Be sure to visit the Hassan II Mosque (outside of prayer times). This is the only mosque in the city where non-Muslims are permitted to enter. The combined indoor and outdoor space can accommodate 105,000 worshippers (25,000 inside and 80,000 in the surrounding courtyard). It is the largest mosque in Morocco and the 13th largest in the world. This masterpiece took 10,000 artisans nearly six years to build - completing in 1993. The Arab League Park is an urban oasis in Casablanca. It's the city's largest and most significant public green space, offering a tranquil retreat amongst the city's chaos. On the north-west corner of the Arab League Park you'll find the Church of the Sacred Heart. This was constructed between 1930 and 1953. In the 1970's the building ceased to be a church. Today, mis-named The Cathedral of Casablanca, it is no longer a place of worship but rather a cultural and exhibition center. Ain Diab is the most famous and popular beach in Casablanca. It features a long stretch of sandy shoreline and offers a lively atmosphere with beach clubs, cafes and restaurants. CONSUME Dar Dada has made the 50 Best restaurants list with good reason. It's a hotspot for Casablancais and tourists alike. Nestled within a charming riad this space and cuisine are a mix of tradition and modernity. The lamb tagine is delicious and the belly dancing performances are fun to watch. Be sure to make a reservation as it fills up, despite how vast it is. Inspired by the movie 'Casablanca', Rick's Cafe transports visitors back in time, making them feel like part of the iconic film. Built in 2004, this is a replica of Rick's Café Americain gin-joint from the 1942 classic film. A visit to Casablanca would not be complete without having a meal/drink at Rick’s Cafe. Al Mounia is a cherished restaurant in Casablanca, with its quintessential Moroccan atmosphere/food and a lovely patio with a centuries-old tree. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Taxis: The Careem ridesharing app was a convenient and affordable way to get around Casablanca, but it was also extremly controversial. I was informed, by a taxi driver, that Careem operates illegally in Morocco, but I found no evidence confirming nor denying this online. The taxi drivers are lawless, angry and violent - not only towards Careem drivers but also towards passengers. I would recommend using hotel-provided cars where possible and either walking around town or hailing licensed taxis (identified by their red color). Make sure you have cash on you as most taxis don't take credit cards. Currency: The Moroccan dirham is a closed currency; as such you can't get any in advance and you are not allowed to take any with you when you leave. Many places in Casa (restaurants, hotels, taxis and some stalls) will accept Euros, but you'll often get dirham as change, with a poor exchange rate. Language: Moroccan Arabic is the official spoken language. French is not officially recognized, but is often used for business, diplomacy and government for non-Moroccans and non-Arabs. Clothing: Both female and male travelers should dress modestly to avoid hassles and unwanted attention. At the beach, you can wear shorts, dresses and swimwear. Pack comfortable footwear that’s suitable for uneven roads and a scarf to cover your shoulders. Drinking: Do not drink tap water in Morocco; bottled water only. Alcoholic beverages are not served in many establishments. Do your research to make sure restaurants you book do serve booze. #casablanca #morocco #thewhitecity #northafrica #africa #medina #hassanIImosque #arableaguepark #cathedralofcasablanca #churchofsacredheart #aindiab #dardada #rickscafe #almounia

When most people think of Morocco, they imagine a single-file line of camels crossing the rolling sand dunes of the Sahara Desert, snake charmers hypnotizing cobras in Marrakesh's fortified old quarter, or the 'Blue City' (AKA Chefchaouen) that's constantly featured on Instagram. Rarely though, do people realize how drastically diverse the landscapes of Morocco actually are. Topography ranges from flat, red granite terrain to snow-capped mountains. From volcanic and barren, to farmer's fields and stripey rolling hills. From cities built into cliffs and Berber villages stacked up against mountainsides to subtropical. There was even a solar power station in Ouarzazate that looked like a place where earthlings might make contact with space aliens. Let's start at the beginning... The journey kicked off in Marrakesh. We collected the Fiat Panda at the airport and drove to our accommodation, in the Medina, where nobody should ever drive. EVER! The roads in the Medina were barely wide enough to fit a car, but were still shared with donkey carts, motorcycles, pedestrians, trucks, stray dogs and children (knocking on your windows expecting money). At one point, I had to get out of the car to move a chair and a parked motorcycle so we could fit down the lane. Even the most savvy of drivers would be unnerved trying to navigate through these alleyways. By the time we arrived outside the door of Riad l'Orangeraie (only about a 20-min drive from the airport), we were frazzled. Luckily, the very kind staff took the car off of us and parked it in a secure lot nearby. Outside the riad was noisy and chaotic, but inside was an oasis of calm. From the courtyard, all we could hear was the lull of the call to prayer in the distance and singing birds. After a bit of Moroccan hospitality (tea, biscuits and advice), we took to the streets of Marrakesh, for some exploration. The first order of business was to get lost wandering through the souk (market). We dodged mopeds, admired colors, savored scents, bargained for tchotchkes and watched tortoises for sale try to escape (very slowly). With a little help from Google Maps, we weaved our way through the labyrinth of the souks, to Jemaa el-Fna (the central square). As the afternoon heat intensified, we decided to pop up to the roof terrace at hotel Les Jardins de la Médina for some refreshing cocktails. Post-aperitifs, we strolled through Parc Lalla Hasna and watched as the sun set over the minaret of Koutoubia (Marrakesh's biggest mosque). A short walk further, we arrived at La Mamounia, one Morocco's most elegant hotels, where people like Jennifer Aniston, David Beckham and Winston Churchill have enjoyed stays. Here, we dined at Le Marocain restaurant. The lobster tagine was worth the price. The loudest birds I have ever heard awoke me the next morning. Nature's alarm clock, I suppose. A lovely breakfast was served on the roof terrace of our riad, where I caught up on international news and chatted to the hotel owner (Cyril) before it was time to move on. Once we figured out where the car had been parked, the road trip officially began. We escaped the hustle and bustle of Marrakech early in the morning, before things got too busy. Our day's journey took us through the hairpin bends of the Atlas Mountains. There was a lot of construction and patches of unpaved road. It took about four hours to drive to Ouarzazate, where we stopped for a quick lunch. One speeding ticket was obtained along the way, but it only cost us MAD150 (~£11). From Ouarzazate, we carried on another two and a quarter hours to Dadès Gorges, which has been carved through the walls of the Atlas Mountains by the Dadès River. The lush, green vegetation of Dadès Valley contrasted against the crumbling kasbahs and sand-colored mountains, presented a dramatic landscape. We passed a geological feature known as 'Monkey Fingers.' This rock formation has smoothly eroded over the years to now look a bit like fingers raising from the earth (so they say). Arriving at our gorgeous hotel, Auberge Chez Pierre, with some sunlight still remaining, provided us the time for a wander through Ait Ouaddar and to have a sundowner before the amazing prix fixe meal at the hotel. One stroll around the village, one sunset, one delicious dinner and one sleep was all we had time for before we had to decamp. We didn't want to leave this beautiful, tranquil place, but the road was calling. This time, it was onwards to the Sahara Desert. The drive to Merzouga took four and three-quarter hours, on mostly flat, straight easy roads. We parked at Kasbah Le Berger, where our car was left for the evening. Ali, one of the co-owners of Ali & Sara's Desert Palace, took us dune bashing, in a 4-wheel drive vehicle, to our home for the night, in the Erg Chebbi dunes. After a few hours of quiet time at our desert palace, we met Casanova, George and Shee Shee (our camels) and hit the dunes, for the first (of two) treks. Sandy and hungry, we returned, post-sunset, to the glamping site for dinner and some entertainment (which consisted of a drum circle and singing around a campfire). The night's sky was breathtaking! The Sahara has been voted the top place on Earth for viewing spectacular stars. Bright and early the next morning, we were back up and saddled into our camels for a sunrise trek. Sunrise in the Sahara was spectacular! There were very few people around and the dunes were awash with a rich, golden light. It was serene and stunning. Plus, I got to watch my camel, Shee Shee, chew his cud for hours, which tickled me endlessly. Breakfast was served following the trek, but then it was time to move on the next destination. The journey to Aït Ben-Haddou took seven hours, inclusive of an hour and a half stop for lunch. Just as we arrived to Aït Ben-Haddou, it started to rain, which was the first and only precipitation we experienced on the whole trip. The rain storm only lasted a few minutes, but provided a terrific sky for photos. After paying €1 for parking and MAD10 entry, we gained access to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Aït Ben-Haddou is a traditional communal habitat made up of a group of earthen buildings surrounded by high walls. To me though, it looked like a life-sized sand castle. You might recognize this location as it has prominently featured in many Hollywood productions, including Gladiator, Game of Thrones, Babel, and Lawrence of Arabia . Our hotel for the night, Kasbah Titrit, was only a six-minute drive further along the road from Aït Ben-Haddou. It had all the amenities for modern comfort, with the charm of an old palace. The final stop on the road trip was Taghazout Bay. It took five and half hours to get there, on the N10. The road was good and very few cars were out until about the last hour. The temperature dropped substantially by the time we got to the coast, and it became quite cloudy. But that didn't stop us from having some lunch and drinks poolside at the Hyatt Place Taghazout Bay. For dinner, we hit the town, but found it to be pretty sleepy. From Taghazout Bay, it was about an hour drive to Agadir Al-Massira International Airport. Luckily, we gave ourselves plenty of extra time, as the car return took forever, as did security and passport control. I loved this trip and all that Morocco had to offer, from its wonderfully chaotic cities and majestic mountains to the serenity of the Sahara Desert and its charming coast. Upon reflection though, I probably squeezed too much physical mileage into a short amount of time. The funny thing about road trips is that, in some ways, they're the opposite of what a holiday should be. They're not particularly relaxed, they often require early wake-ups and a heightened sense of awareness and you are constantly packing and unpacking as you bounce from one accommodation to another. Yet they provide the ultimate form of freedom, and can be the best way to get under the skin of a country. I would highly recommend road tripping around Morocco and following the same itinerary, but give yourself more than six days to complete it...Or find yourself a magic carpet. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Pack a pen. You must complete a landing card upon arrival, and actually also at departure. They drive on the right side of the road in Morocco. When you collect your rental car, point out every scratch, mark and dent, making sure your papers reflect all the blemishes. Take a video as well. There are many random police checkpoints and speed traps. The police look scary, but are usually quite friendly to tourists. There doesn't seem to be much sense in how the locals drive. They pull over without any warning. They don't indicate unless they actually aren't turning. They stop in the middle of roundabouts. We never came across any tolls. Petrol stations are full service. There are a lot of hitchhikers. Children play in the streets and do not have electronic devices. They were all smiles and would wave to us as we drove by. Do not drink the water. Bottled water only. Alcoholic beverages were really only served in hotels. Eat all the tajines! Hospitality was top-notch at every accommodation where we stayed. We really felt like we were their guests. All the Moroccans we came across were warmhearted and friendly. Moroccans do not like to be photographed. Carry small denominations of dirhams for parking, tipping, etc. Morocco is cash culture, outside of finer hotels and restaurants, and change is often hard to come by. Learn the art of haggling, to get a good price. #morocco #marrakesh #marrakech #theredcity #jemaaelfna #ourzazate #dadesgorges #highatlasmountains #atlasmountains #merzouga #ergchebbi #saharadesert #sanddunes #camel #cameltrek #aïtbenhaddou #taghazoutbay #agadir