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- olympics & minimoon in bordeaux, france
When the Olympic lottery system launched in early 2023, I bought a pair of men's football quarter-finals tickets. I had no idea back then that I would be getting married in the summer of 2024, but serendipitously my pre-purchased tickets fell one week after the wedding, so my husband and I hopped on a plane shortly after we got hitched and escaped to Bordeaux, France to combine the Olympics with a romantic micro honeymoon. Two days before the trip we discovered that we'd be seeing the home nation battle their rival nation in a bad-tempered grudge match that would lead France to the semi-finals. Tensions between France and Argentina have been ongoing since the FIFA World Cup final in December 2022, but most recently flared up again in mid-July, when a video circulated, after the Copa América final, where Argentina's squad were recorded chanting racist songs about French players. Hostility occurred throughout the match and ultimately spilled over at full-time with 30 players/staff brawling on the field and confrontations continuing down the tunnel. This match did not promote the spirit of solidarity, friendship and fair play as intended by Olympism, with 30 fouls, 10 yellow cards and 1 red card, but it certainly was an electric and intense match to watch. Olympics aside, below is some inspiration for how to spend 48-hours in France's wine capital. ACCOMODATION We stayed at the cozy Casa Blanca B&B , which I would highly recommend. It was set in a 200-year-old building in the Les Chartrons district of Bordeaux. Chartrons is laidback, charming, vibrant and filled with boutique shops, outdoor markets and art galleries. It's a two-minute walk from a tram stop and right near Jardin Public. The rooms are the B&B were large and airy, with beautiful furnishings. And the delicious continental breakfast was served in an understated sunroom. WINE TASTING The Bordeaux region is home to more than 7,000 wine chateaux producing some 700 million bottles each year, so there’s no shortage of wines to try nor vineyards to visit . On my previous visit to Bordeaux, I went to Saint Émilion to taste, which was amazing. But, wanting to change things up a little this time, we organized a wine tasting tour through our B&B to Médoc. The tour took us to two wine estates in the Left Bank appellations of Pauillac and Haut-Médoc. Stop 1 was Château Lynch-Bages , primarily known for their Cabernet Sauvignon blended red wines. The wines of Lynch-Bages are celebrated for retaining their power and complexity – blossoming with more flavor and complexity with time and age. Our second stop was to the beautiful Château d'Agassac , where the wines have been classified as 'Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel' and are among the most highly regarded and award-winning in the Haut-Médoc region. EATING/DRINKING Bordeaux isn’t just a city with the same name as the famous French wine though. It's also known for having some of the best food in all of France. Tiny bistros and fine dining establishments, on beautiful streets, pair their innovative menus with great wines for foodgasmic experiences. We had a lovely dinner at Le 1544 at the Gabriel Hotel, overlooking the world's largest reflecting pool, Miroir d’Eau. The bistro's cuisine was dreamy, and we paired it with a yummy bottle of 2016 Echo de Lynch-Bages to bring us full circle from our wine tasting earlier in the day. We also enjoyed a Parisian-style lunch at Brasserie 1925 , complete with snails and champagne. Hit up YARRA wine bar on your way back to the B&B, after your long day. It's located in a typical Chartrons building, in what used to be its wine cellar. The interior is a mix of an industrial bar at the front, a comfy sofa area in the middle and a terrace out back. Yarra offers a variety of wines from famous wine regions in France as well as smaller and lesser-known appellations around the world, which they love recommending. Although Bordeaux wasn't initially planned as a minimoon destination, it ended up being a perfectly romantic place to escape to for a post-wedding treat!
- hong kong left me wonton more
Hong Kong, also know as the Pearl of the Orient, is truly a gem. I only spent a few weekdays in Hong Kong, thus avoiding the ongoing weekend protests. Although I didn't observe any actual demonstrations nor violence, I did some see a bit of related graffiti and property destruction. It was also obvious that the city is emptier than usual, which is good news for tourists, as flights and hotel rooms are cheaper, the top tourist destinations have shorter-than-normal wait times and you can get into bars/restaurants of your choice, without reservations. The unfortunate, and inconvenient, side of things is that getting around has become unpredictable. Chaos is affecting services on Hong Kong’s famously efficient Mass Transit Railway (MTR) and vandalism has caused some stations to be shut down. With generally low crime rates and excellent standards of healthcare, even with the current unrest, Hong Kong still felt safe to me. Tourists should always be alert and vigilant, but deterred from visiting they should not be. Below is a suggested list of things to see and do and places to eat and drink in if you find yourself in this fabulous city for a few days. See/Do: *TRAM TO VICTORIA PEAK - The Peak Tram runs from Garden Road, up the mountain, ending at The Peak Upper Terminus, where you'll find the Sky Terrace. An adult return ticket will cost you HK$99 ($12.50 USD). The Peak is normally packed with visitors and is usually one of the most popular tourist spots in Hong Kong. To avoid long queues and crowds, I'd suggest taking the first tram up, at 7am. Given the current situation in HK, the 7am wasn't necessary for us, but we did still take an early train, with approximately four other people. Nothing actually opens at the top until 10am, but to kill time before heading up the viewing platform, I recommend that you wander around Lugard Road. It's a 2.4km pedestrian path that offers sweeping views of the city and Victoria Harbour. And it's free! In my opinion, Hong Kong has one of the best city skylines in the world, with the largest collection of buildings over 500ft (150m). The density and height of the buildings is incredible. *HOLLYWOOD ROAD - This street, in Central and Sheung Wan, on Hong Kong Island, was one of the first paved roads in HK. It was a prime trading area for sailors and smugglers, given it's proximity to the waterfront. Today, Hollywood Rd is the center of the art and antiques and a must see. *STAR FERRY: This beloved Hong Kong icon is both a mode of transportation and a very cheap means of sightseeing. To go across Victoria Harbour, from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon (or vice versa) will cost you less than one GBP/USD. *KOWLOON PARK: Escape the chaos of Tsim Sha Tsui at the tranquil Kowloon Park. Plus there's an aviary, turtles and the smallest pop-up McDonald's I've ever seen. *BIG BUDDHA - On Lantau Island, next to Po Lin Monastery, sits a very large buddha. 'Big Buddha' is the local nickname; the official name is Tian Tan Buddha. To see Big Buddha, take the MRT to Tung Chung. You'll then need to take the 25-minute Ngong Ping 360 cable car (it opens at 10am). You'll need to climb up 268 steps to see Big Buddha up close. This 34 meter tall statue weighs over 250 tons and is the second largest outdoor, bronze, seated Buddha. Eat/Drink: *TAI KWUN - After 8 years and HK$3.8 billion, the former Central Police Station, Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison were redeveloped into a cultural and shopping courtyard complex, in Central Hong Kong. Definitely pop by here for some drinks in the courtyard. *PIQNIQ ROOFTOP: This whimsical rooftop terrace is a great option for alfresco drinks and snacks served in a picnic basket. *SEVVA ROOFTOP: This is my favorite rooftop in Hong Kong. There is a 360-degree balcony offering stunning views and a sleek, elegant decor. *CHOM CHOM: Located in Hong Kong's Soho district, this is a great choice for Vietnamese fare, inspired by the street food of Hanoi. *DIN TAI FUNG: Although I went in Taipei, I just couldn't stay away. DTF is always a good idea! I went to the Tsim Sha Tsui location, on Kowloon Island. *OZONE ROOFTOP: On the 118th floor of the ICC building, within the Ritz-Carlton, you'll find Ozone, the highest bar in the world. Here you'll find unobstructed views of western Hong Kong island and Kowloon. The drinks are expensive, but it's a great viewing spot for the Symphony of Lights (SoL), which occurs every night at 8pm. *OZU BAR: This Japanese-themed bar/restaurant is a hidden gem on the bustling Hollywood Road. It's got a chilled vibe, graffiti murals, cool tunes and a stocked bar. This venue does appear to be permanently shut now, sadly (in June 2024). *SOCIAL PLACE: This modern Chinese dim sum restaurant serves delicious dishes with a unique twist, like the sweet potato piggy bun displayed below. *WOOLOOMOOLOO ROOFTOP: Not only is it fun to say, but it's also a vibrant rooftop, right in the heart of Wan Chai, offering a sky-high drinking experience. It was great to meet up with long lost friends of mine, from former days when we all used to live in San Diego. *THAIWAN: I ended up at this Wan Chai neighborhood bar late night. From what I remember, it was a casual and basic place serving up a mixture of Thai and Taiwanese themed drinks. Know Before You Go: US citizens do not need a visa, but must show proof of an onward journey (bring a printout of your flight leaving Taiwan). A landing card will need to be completed upon arrival (bring a pen). Hong Kong will not stamp your passport. They will give you a landing slip that you are supposed to hold on to until you depart (I never needed mine at time of departure). The Airport Express Travel Pass gets you return transit to/from the airport plus three consecutive days of unlimited MRT travel for $350 HKD (~$45 USD). The airport is 25-mins on the MRT from Hong Kong Station. My UK Vodafone worldwide corporate plan covered my mobile for £5/day. 'Use Uber if you want to live' is what my friends who are locals said. I used local taxi's as they were very cheap, but apparently using Uber is safer in Hong Kong. I stayed at the OZO Wesley Hotel in Wan Chai. It was a great location, comfortable and affordable. As a result of the protesting, security has been enhanced at the airports, so allow yourself enough time when you depart (at least two hours). #hongkong #china #eastasia #asia #hongkongisland #kowloon #pearloftheorient #asiasworldcity #bigbuddha #tiantanbuddha #victoriapeak #ritzcarlton #ozone #wooloomooloo #sevva #piqniq #rooftops
- casablanca - a modern morocco
Casablanca is one of the more overlooked cities in Morocco. It is the country's largest city, the cultural capital and the economic heartbeat. It's also the most liberal and progressive of Morocco’s cities. And yet, it is often bypassed by foreign visitors. Maybe this is because the city’s modern appearance doesn't fit with the romantic vision conjured up when we envision Morocco? The 'white city' is beautiful in its own way, but it is not for the faint of heart. It is congested and rough in parts. Vendors will be in your face, people seem to constantly be arguing and the pollution can be overwhelming. If you aren't deterred by the culture shock and find yourself in Casa, below are my recommendations. ACCOMODATION I stayed at the Hyatt Regency Casablanca, just a few steps away from the Medina and the Art Deco buildings, in the historical center of Casablanca. If you're there with the sole intention of lazing by the pool, I'd suggest checking that there isn't a private event going on during your stay and/or that the pool has been opened for the season. SEE/DO The Old Medina is a bazaar, where craftsmen and merchants sell leather goods, antiques, shoes, lanterns, linens, spices and knock-off handbags. If you go early in the morning, even on a weekend, it's fairly quiet in the souk. It's not nearly as frenetic as the medina in Marrakech. Allow yourself to get lost in the little alleyways and hidden corners. Be sure to visit the Hassan II Mosque (outside of prayer times). This is the only mosque in the city where non-Muslims are permitted to enter. The combined indoor and outdoor space can accommodate 105,000 worshippers (25,000 inside and 80,000 in the surrounding courtyard). It is the largest mosque in Morocco and the 13th largest in the world. This masterpiece took 10,000 artisans nearly six years to build - completing in 1993. The Arab League Park is an urban oasis in Casablanca. It's the city's largest and most significant public green space, offering a tranquil retreat amongst the city's chaos. On the north-west corner of the Arab League Park you'll find the Church of the Sacred Heart. This was constructed between 1930 and 1953. In the 1970's the building ceased to be a church. Today, mis-named The Cathedral of Casablanca, it is no longer a place of worship but rather a cultural and exhibition center. Ain Diab is the most famous and popular beach in Casablanca. It features a long stretch of sandy shoreline and offers a lively atmosphere with beach clubs, cafes and restaurants. CONSUME Dar Dada has made the 50 Best restaurants list with good reason. It's a hotspot for Casablancais and tourists alike. Nestled within a charming riad this space and cuisine are a mix of tradition and modernity. The lamb tagine is delicious and the belly dancing performances are fun to watch. Be sure to make a reservation as it fills up, despite how vast it is. Inspired by the movie 'Casablanca', Rick's Cafe transports visitors back in time, making them feel like part of the iconic film. Built in 2004, this is a replica of Rick's Café Americain gin-joint from the 1942 classic film. A visit to Casablanca would not be complete without having a meal/drink at Rick’s Cafe. Al Mounia is a cherished restaurant in Casablanca, with its quintessential Moroccan atmosphere/food and a lovely patio with a centuries-old tree. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Taxis: The Careem ridesharing app was a convenient and affordable way to get around Casablanca, but it was also extremly controversial. I was informed, by a taxi driver, that Careem operates illegally in Morocco, but I found no evidence confirming nor denying this online. The taxi drivers are lawless, angry and violent - not only towards Careem drivers but also towards passengers. I would recommend using hotel-provided cars where possible and either walking around town or hailing licensed taxis (identified by their red color). Make sure you have cash on you as most taxis don't take credit cards. Currency: The Moroccan dirham is a closed currency; as such you can't get any in advance and you are not allowed to take any with you when you leave. Many places in Casa (restaurants, hotels, taxis and some stalls) will accept Euros, but you'll often get dirham as change, with a poor exchange rate. Language: Moroccan Arabic is the official spoken language. French is not officially recognized, but is often used for business, diplomacy and government for non-Moroccans and non-Arabs. Clothing: Both female and male travelers should dress modestly to avoid hassles and unwanted attention. At the beach, you can wear shorts, dresses and swimwear. Pack comfortable footwear that’s suitable for uneven roads and a scarf to cover your shoulders. Drinking: Do not drink tap water in Morocco; bottled water only. Alcoholic beverages are not served in many establishments. Do your research to make sure restaurants you book do serve booze. #casablanca #morocco #thewhitecity #northafrica #africa #medina #hassanIImosque #arableaguepark #cathedralofcasablanca #churchofsacredheart #aindiab #dardada #rickscafe #almounia
- moroccan overland odyssey
When most people think of Morocco, they imagine a single-file line of camels crossing the rolling sand dunes of the Sahara Desert, snake charmers hypnotizing cobras in Marrakesh's fortified old quarter, or the 'Blue City' (AKA Chefchaouen) that's constantly featured on Instagram. Rarely though, do people realize how drastically diverse the landscapes of Morocco actually are. Topography ranges from flat, red granite terrain to snow-capped mountains. From volcanic and barren, to farmer's fields and stripey rolling hills. From cities built into cliffs and Berber villages stacked up against mountainsides to subtropical. There was even a solar power station in Ouarzazate that looked like a place where earthlings might make contact with space aliens. Let's start at the beginning... The journey kicked off in Marrakesh. We collected the Fiat Panda at the airport and drove to our accommodation, in the Medina, where nobody should ever drive. EVER! The roads in the Medina were barely wide enough to fit a car, but were still shared with donkey carts, motorcycles, pedestrians, trucks, stray dogs and children (knocking on your windows expecting money). At one point, I had to get out of the car to move a chair and a parked motorcycle so we could fit down the lane. Even the most savvy of drivers would be unnerved trying to navigate through these alleyways. By the time we arrived outside the door of Riad l'Orangeraie (only about a 20-min drive from the airport), we were frazzled. Luckily, the very kind staff took the car off of us and parked it in a secure lot nearby. Outside the riad was noisy and chaotic, but inside was an oasis of calm. From the courtyard, all we could hear was the lull of the call to prayer in the distance and singing birds. After a bit of Moroccan hospitality (tea, biscuits and advice), we took to the streets of Marrakesh, for some exploration. The first order of business was to get lost wandering through the souk (market). We dodged mopeds, admired colors, savored scents, bargained for tchotchkes and watched tortoises for sale try to escape (very slowly). With a little help from Google Maps, we weaved our way through the labyrinth of the souks, to Jemaa el-Fna (the central square). As the afternoon heat intensified, we decided to pop up to the roof terrace at hotel Les Jardins de la Médina for some refreshing cocktails. Post-aperitifs, we strolled through Parc Lalla Hasna and watched as the sun set over the minaret of Koutoubia (Marrakesh's biggest mosque). A short walk further, we arrived at La Mamounia, one Morocco's most elegant hotels, where people like Jennifer Aniston, David Beckham and Winston Churchill have enjoyed stays. Here, we dined at Le Marocain restaurant. The lobster tagine was worth the price. The loudest birds I have ever heard awoke me the next morning. Nature's alarm clock, I suppose. A lovely breakfast was served on the roof terrace of our riad, where I caught up on international news and chatted to the hotel owner (Cyril) before it was time to move on. Once we figured out where the car had been parked, the road trip officially began. We escaped the hustle and bustle of Marrakech early in the morning, before things got too busy. Our day's journey took us through the hairpin bends of the Atlas Mountains. There was a lot of construction and patches of unpaved road. It took about four hours to drive to Ouarzazate, where we stopped for a quick lunch. One speeding ticket was obtained along the way, but it only cost us MAD150 (~£11). From Ouarzazate, we carried on another two and a quarter hours to Dadès Gorges, which has been carved through the walls of the Atlas Mountains by the Dadès River. The lush, green vegetation of Dadès Valley contrasted against the crumbling kasbahs and sand-colored mountains, presented a dramatic landscape. We passed a geological feature known as 'Monkey Fingers.' This rock formation has smoothly eroded over the years to now look a bit like fingers raising from the earth (so they say). Arriving at our gorgeous hotel, Auberge Chez Pierre, with some sunlight still remaining, provided us the time for a wander through Ait Ouaddar and to have a sundowner before the amazing prix fixe meal at the hotel. One stroll around the village, one sunset, one delicious dinner and one sleep was all we had time for before we had to decamp. We didn't want to leave this beautiful, tranquil place, but the road was calling. This time, it was onwards to the Sahara Desert. The drive to Merzouga took four and three-quarter hours, on mostly flat, straight easy roads. We parked at Kasbah Le Berger, where our car was left for the evening. Ali, one of the co-owners of Ali & Sara's Desert Palace, took us dune bashing, in a 4-wheel drive vehicle, to our home for the night, in the Erg Chebbi dunes. After a few hours of quiet time at our desert palace, we met Casanova, George and Shee Shee (our camels) and hit the dunes, for the first (of two) treks. Sandy and hungry, we returned, post-sunset, to the glamping site for dinner and some entertainment (which consisted of a drum circle and singing around a campfire). The night's sky was breathtaking! The Sahara has been voted the top place on Earth for viewing spectacular stars. Bright and early the next morning, we were back up and saddled into our camels for a sunrise trek. Sunrise in the Sahara was spectacular! There were very few people around and the dunes were awash with a rich, golden light. It was serene and stunning. Plus, I got to watch my camel, Shee Shee, chew his cud for hours, which tickled me endlessly. Breakfast was served following the trek, but then it was time to move on the next destination. The journey to Aït Ben-Haddou took seven hours, inclusive of an hour and a half stop for lunch. Just as we arrived to Aït Ben-Haddou, it started to rain, which was the first and only precipitation we experienced on the whole trip. The rain storm only lasted a few minutes, but provided a terrific sky for photos. After paying €1 for parking and MAD10 entry, we gained access to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Aït Ben-Haddou is a traditional communal habitat made up of a group of earthen buildings surrounded by high walls. To me though, it looked like a life-sized sand castle. You might recognize this location as it has prominently featured in many Hollywood productions, including Gladiator, Game of Thrones, Babel, and Lawrence of Arabia . Our hotel for the night, Kasbah Titrit, was only a six-minute drive further along the road from Aït Ben-Haddou. It had all the amenities for modern comfort, with the charm of an old palace. The final stop on the road trip was Taghazout Bay. It took five and half hours to get there, on the N10. The road was good and very few cars were out until about the last hour. The temperature dropped substantially by the time we got to the coast, and it became quite cloudy. But that didn't stop us from having some lunch and drinks poolside at the Hyatt Place Taghazout Bay. For dinner, we hit the town, but found it to be pretty sleepy. From Taghazout Bay, it was about an hour drive to Agadir Al-Massira International Airport. Luckily, we gave ourselves plenty of extra time, as the car return took forever, as did security and passport control. I loved this trip and all that Morocco had to offer, from its wonderfully chaotic cities and majestic mountains to the serenity of the Sahara Desert and its charming coast. Upon reflection though, I probably squeezed too much physical mileage into a short amount of time. The funny thing about road trips is that, in some ways, they're the opposite of what a holiday should be. They're not particularly relaxed, they often require early wake-ups and a heightened sense of awareness and you are constantly packing and unpacking as you bounce from one accommodation to another. Yet they provide the ultimate form of freedom, and can be the best way to get under the skin of a country. I would highly recommend road tripping around Morocco and following the same itinerary, but give yourself more than six days to complete it...Or find yourself a magic carpet. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Pack a pen. You must complete a landing card upon arrival, and actually also at departure. They drive on the right side of the road in Morocco. When you collect your rental car, point out every scratch, mark and dent, making sure your papers reflect all the blemishes. Take a video as well. There are many random police checkpoints and speed traps. The police look scary, but are usually quite friendly to tourists. There doesn't seem to be much sense in how the locals drive. They pull over without any warning. They don't indicate unless they actually aren't turning. They stop in the middle of roundabouts. We never came across any tolls. Petrol stations are full service. There are a lot of hitchhikers. Children play in the streets and do not have electronic devices. They were all smiles and would wave to us as we drove by. Do not drink the water. Bottled water only. Alcoholic beverages were really only served in hotels. Eat all the tajines! Hospitality was top-notch at every accommodation where we stayed. We really felt like we were their guests. All the Moroccans we came across were warmhearted and friendly. Moroccans do not like to be photographed. Carry small denominations of dirhams for parking, tipping, etc. Morocco is cash culture, outside of finer hotels and restaurants, and change is often hard to come by. Learn the art of haggling, to get a good price. #morocco #marrakesh #marrakech #theredcity #jemaaelfna #ourzazate #dadesgorges #highatlasmountains #atlasmountains #merzouga #ergchebbi #saharadesert #sanddunes #camel #cameltrek #aïtbenhaddou #taghazoutbay #agadir
- marrakech, morocco - take two
There’s just something about Marrakech. It is more than just an ancient city in Morocco; it’s a sensory experience, filled with vibrant colors, flavors, smells, sounds, and unique sights. The city bombards your senses and holds nothing back in the process. The first time I visited was for just one day/one night, at the front-end of a wider Moroccan road trip. This time, because I went for three days, I got to experience a bit more of the excitement and energy that Marrakech beholds. Below are my recommendations for a weekend spent in the red city. STAY: The restored 18th-century Riad Kniza is a boutique-y 11 room hideout in the heart of Marrakech's old city. When you step through the front door, you leave the hustle of the old town behind you. The guesthouse's atmosphere is peaceful and serene with an authentic Moroccan decor. Our room, the royal suite (#11), was enormous, with a modern bathroom, seating area, fireplace and lots of Moorish detail. The riad has a rooftop, spa, pool, several courtyards and a wall of photographs featuring the owner alongside his many famous guests. If it's good enough for Brad Pitt, Will Smith and Goldie Hawn, it's good enough for me! DO: Marrakech is famous for its souks (markets). Take your time mooching around the labyrinth of covered alleys, getting lost amongst the paintings, rugs, leather goods, lanterns, spice stalls and crockery of all shapes and sizes. If you’re looking for a true Marrakechi experience, haggle with the vendors. Start at one quarter of the price you're told, and never pay more than a third of the initial given price. ROOFTOPS: Whilst the city has become a hotspot for those seeking Arabian luxuries in lavish lodgings, marble clad spas and chic dining experiences, it's interesting to see a different side of Marrakech, hidden from the streets below. From the rooftops, you get a peek behind the curtain, so to speak. You'll see clothes hanging out to dry, crumbling plaster, rusty satellite dishes and weakly installed cabling. Roof terraces are the perfect place to sit back, relax and note the juxtaposition that is Marrakech. I recommend the following (*Note: Some do, and some do not sell alcohol): Bazaar Cafe: Climb the stairs to the top floor for the best views. Up there, you'll find a relaxed terrace, charming atmosphere and a selection of wine, beer and spirits. Medina Sky doesn't serve booze, but it sure is pretty. Pop in for a traditional mint tea or have a snack before moving on to the next rooftop. If you want to visit the highest bar in the Medina and be seen at one of the newest and coolest spots, look no further than Kabana. Visit El Fenn's rooftop for a delicious lunch, then stay to enjoy the plunge pool and a few bottles of rose in one of the many lounging areas. It's an Instagrammer's paradise. DINNER: To sample some of the delectable dishes that Marrakech has to offer, dine at the following: At Comptoir Darna you'll get exotic decor, dinner and a show. Book in advance and be sure to order the roasted goats cheese starter followed by the famous mechoui for two. The lamb shoulder is cooked for seven hours and then roasted. It's served with vegetables and potatoes and is more than enough to feed four people. Whilst you dine, you will be entertained by belly dancers and women balancing lit candelabras on their heads. Ask to sit by the pool at Hotel La Maison Arabe. I had great service, a lovely meal and really enjoyed the live music. For the second time, Morocco did not disappoint. Marrakech is a must-visit destination for travellers seeking a quintessential Moroccan experience with a whole lot of surprises. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: The Moroccan dirham is a closed currency, meaning you can't get any in advance and you are not allowed to take any with you when you leave. Many places in Marrakech (restaurants, hotels, taxis and some stalls) will accept Euros, but you'll often get dirham as change, with what can be a poor exchange rate. Be aware of pick-pockets and backpack slashers in crowded markets. In the souq, be firm but polite. Haggling is part of the Moroccan experience. Most Moroccans speak French as well as their Berber dialects. Modest clothing is advised for both female and male travelers to avoid hassles and unwanted attention. Vendors and performers in the souqs expect to be paid for photographs. And many Moroccans don’t like having their photos taken. Respect their customs. #medina #marrakech #morocco #maroc #northafrica #africa
- lake garda, italy
My first weekend getaway, after moving to Munich, was to Lake Garda (that's 'Lago di Garda' if you're Italian or 'Gardasee' if you're German). This is the largest lake in Italy, located in the north of the country, on the edge of the Dolomites. It was formed by glaciers and is known for its crystal clear water. I flew into Verona (about a 40-min flight from Munich) on a Friday evening. No immigration, on either side, was necessary, as both Germany and Italy are in the EU and part of the Schengen area. As I was landing late at night, I didn't know where I was going and I haven't driven much in about 10 years, I decided it would be best to book a car service to take me to my hotel. Zip Transfers were the cheapest option I could find. It was €142 round-trip, for two people inclusive of luggage. Both drivers were on time and friendly. I stayed a pleasant hotel called Hotel Olivi, in Sirmione, a resort town on the southern bank of the lake. The first stop on my tour of Lake Garda, after a slow start on Saturday morning, was the famous Scaligero Castle, a medieval fortress in the historic center of Sirmione. Since I was starving, and it was directly across from the castle, Pizzeria Scaligeri's was selected for lunch. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Both the artichoke/parma ham bruschetta starter and the pizza I had were delicious. I washed it all down with a few glasses of Lugana (local white wine). Next on my self-created tour was a ferry ride. It cost €23.40 for an all-day, multi-stop ticket. I intended on taking the 14:06 to Lazise, but accidentally got on a slightly earlier boat, going the opposite direction. I ended up in Desenzano, which turned out to be a lovely spot for a lakeside drink. I had an hour to kill before the next ferry left. The second and final boat stop was Garda, where I had some wanders and sundowners. At 19:20, I took the last ferry back from Garda to Sirmione (which took about 45-minutes). I had just enough time to get freshen up, back at the hotel, and then walk to dinner at La Speranzina, a lakeside Michelin star restaurant. It was amazing! After the meal, I was so full, I didn't even have room for gelato! On Sunday, it was less sunny, but still warm, so I decided to walk to the north end of the Sirmione peninsula and visit the Grotte di Catullo (the entrance fee was €8). These ruins of a Roman villa were built at the end of the 1st century B.C. and the beginning of the 1st century A.D. Just down a short trail from the entrance to the Catullo Caves I found Jamaica Beach, with its slabs of rock and turquoise water. Overlooking the beach was the Jamaica Beach Bar, which had fun music playing and offered generous pours of Prosecco. Finally, it was time for the last lunch in Lake Garda before heading back to the airport. I had pasta with truffles at Ristorante il Girasole. Mmmmmmm! Back to Munich I went, fat and happy! #lakegarda #lagodigarda #gardasee #sirmione #garda #desenzano #italy #italia #europe
- the lure of liverpool
In the United Kingdom's primate city structure, London surpasses all other cities in size and importance. The 'Second City', however, is an unofficial title that is subjective and cultural in nature and has been claimed by many UK cities over the years. If you asked the inhabitants of Birmingham what they think the 'Second City' is, they'll say 'Birmingham'. If you ask Mancunians, they'd no doubt reply with 'Manchester'. But if you ask proud Liverpool scousers, they'll say 'London'. It may not be London, but for a compact and walkable city, Liverpool packs a big punch. It was named the second 'friendliest city in the UK' in the Condé Nast Traveler 2023 Readers Choice Awards. It is often used as a filming location due to its variety of architectural styles. It is England's only UNESCO City of Music. Sports wise, it's the home to two renowned Premier League football teams. And it's known for having some excellent restaurants and a lively nightlife. MUSIC I'd be remiss not to mention the Beatles first as one of the most famous, and best, gifts that Liverpool has given the world. Regarded as one of the most influential bands of all time, the Beatles rose to fame in the 1960s. The Fab Four are still celebrated around the globe today and responsible for vast amounts of tourism in Liverpool. You'll see references and landmarks dedicated to John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr all over the city. The hotel where I stayed even had references on their website and memorabilia in their lobby. I highly recommend taking a Beatles-themed tour. I did this one and my guide, Roy, was a delight! Many other influential and notable musical acts hail from Liverpool as well. Musicians from this city have released more chart-topping hit singles than anywhere else in the world. SPORTS Liverpool isn’t just about the Beatles. Football is also a vital component of Liverpool's culture and economy. Plenty of cities have two football clubs, but the Blues and the Reds rivalry is one of the most amicable because of their proximity (only meters separate Goodison Park and Anfield) and lack of fundamental difference between the supporters, in terms of religion and social status. If you can, get tickets to a match. I chose to see Everton because they were playing at home and Liverpool FC were away the weekend I was visiting. Both clubs also offer grounds tours, if there are no games on when you're in town. If you see the Toffees, get to Goodison Park with plenty of time and have some drinks with the supporters in one of the many nearby pubs. FOOD/BEVERAGE I wouldn't necessarily call Liverpool a foodie city, but it is home to several great restaurants. Most notable was 8 by Andrew Sheridan. Having achieved three AA-Rosettes, 8 is also listed in The Michelin Guide, was named by The Times as one of its top 10 worldwide dining experiences and won best restaurant in the UK and Best restaurant in Liverpool at the British Restaurant Awards. I stumbled upon the Petit Café by accident but I recommend experiencing this taste of France, on the edge of Liverpool's China Town. Enjoy specialist wines, crafted cocktails and live jazz every weekend. The Royal Albert Dock offers a glimpse of Liverpool’s maritime history. It is the most-visited free tourist destination in Northwest England, home to museums, galleries, shops, restaurants and bars. If you like gin, visit the Liverpool Gin Distillery on Castle Street. Located in the heart of the city, it is spread over four floors. On the ground floor you will find the Gin Bar, which is home to over 40 different gins. Regardless of where you stand on the ranking of UK's cities, if you're planning a trip to England and you fancy a change from the usual London-focused visit, then Liverpool is a great option. #liverpool #uk #unitedkingdom #england #evertonfc #liverpoolfc #beatles #scouse
- where has the time gone?
As today marks my two-year anniversary in London Town and it’s been a year and a half since I shared the 6 things I learned in my first 6 months in London, I thought I’d post a few more discoveries to round out my list at a total of 24. Without further ado, and in no particular order, below are my random thoughts and ramblings: Food & Drink 1. For the love of condiments: Malt vinegar or mayonnaise with your chips (french fries)? Brown sauce versus tomato ketchup. Does anyone actually like Marmite? What is salad cream? The list of sauce options in the UK is endless and the condiments sections of grocery stores are vast: horseradish, mustard, chili sauce, mint sauce, tartar sauce, gravy, curry, relish, etc. I can’t tell if Brits prefer their actual meals or if the dishes are just used as a vehicle for consuming condiments. Not being a condiment lover myself, I don’t claim to understand the British fondness for such things, but seriously, what IS salad cream? 2. Iced wine: In UK pubs, drinks are typically served cool, not cold. Simply put, ice is less essential here. My intent is not to moan about it, but to confess that since my wine is often not served at its optimal temperature, I am now a habitual vino icer. And I’m not upset about it. **GASP** 3. Flavored crisps (potato chips, for all you ‘Mericans): Are you brave enough to try 'Roast Chicken', 'Roast Beef and Peppercorn Sauce' or 'Pork Sausage and English Mustard' crisps? Would you pair a pack of 'Smoked Ham & Pickle' or 'Firecracker Lobster' chips with your sandwich? These flavors make me question whether crisps here are meant to be a snack or a meal replacement. 4. You can drink…everywhere: Anyone over 18 in the UK can drink alcohol. Location is of no consequence: in the street, in theaters, at parks. Even where outlawed, you’ll see people enjoying adult beverages (on buses, trains, tubes, trams, the London Eye, etc.). Public intoxication, although not always technically legal is socially acceptable just about everwhere and I love it! Healthcare 5. A&E: In the UK, A&E is not a place you’d want to spend a great deal of your time. Accident & Emergency is the hospital department dealing with life-threatening emergencies. In the US, A&E is a television network that airs programs like Intervention. I’d much prefer to watch an intervention on TV, from the comfort of my couch, then live through it in an emergency room. Just sayin’. 6. National Health Service (NHS): I think it’s fair to say that most Britons believe the NHS to be a symbol of one of the things that makes Britain great. A tribute to the NHS even featured in the opening ceremonies of the 2012 London Olympics. While I agree that national healthcare has its advantages, let me make one thing perfectly clear: it is not free. The second largest chunk of an average UK earner’s tax bill goes to the NHS. There are pros and cons to both the US and the UK healthcare systems that I won’t delve into here, but there’s one example in particular that I’d like to share which will help you understand why I don’t necessarily celebrate the NHS establishment as much as my neighbors. The first time I utilized NHS services, I was asked to provide a urine sample. Seems reasonable so far, right? There was nowhere to leave my cup o' pee in the bathroom, so I was left sitting in the waiting area, holding it, which felt slightly uncivilized. When the general practitioner called me into the exam room, I handed the cup over to him, at which point he took the lid off and…wait for it…smelled it. Yep, and then he diagnosed me as dehydrated. It’s worth noting that my sample was the color of lemon-lime Gatorade and probably didn’t require a sniff test for that level of professional analysis. Animals 7. Urban foxes and flying ants: In no other city in the world (at least that I am aware of) are foxes part of the urban landscape. The first time I saw one I had no idea what it was, but it scared the crap out of me. I quickly learned that they are quite common in London. Apart from their hideous, screeching mating cries (heard for a few weeks each January), they are generally harmless and spend most of their time patrolling the streets at night, eating rubbish and keeping the rodent count down. In addition to these weird city-dwelling creatures, the UK also has flying ants. One day each year, when the weather finally gets a little balmy and warm (usually July or August), millions of winged ants come out, in swarms, in an attack on the UK. They even have their own holiday (cleverly enough) called ‘Flying Ant Day’. I high recommend staying indoors on this day. Government & Law 8. United Kingdom (UK) vs Great Britain (GB): The United Kingdom (officially The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland) is comprised of four separate nations: England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Great Britain, on the other hand, refers to only England, Scotland and Wales. All people in the UK are technically British despite having different nationalities (although I wouldn’t recommend calling a Scotsman British to his face). Still following? Good! Let’s complicate things further for you then. In the Olympics, all four countries compete together as Team Great Britain (even though Northern Ireland is included). In Rugby, England, Wales and Scotland each compete as their own separate nations, but Northern Ireland and Ireland contend together and are collectively called Ireland. In the European Championships (football/soccer), each country competes individually. Clear as mud now, right? 9. Thievery: Starting in October of 2015, the law required all retailers in England who have 250+ employees to charge 5 pence per single-use plastic carrier bag. With this cost being applied, fewer and fewer people are opting for bags when only buying only a few small things. Combine this with the increase of contactless payments (tap and go technology for totals under £30, much like Apple Pay). When using contactless, you are given the option of receiving a receipt or not. I’d wager that most people don’t take the receipt. I know I never do. So, now it's becoming more and more common to see people walking out of shops, holding unbagged items, with no receipts, looking like thieves. Surveillance 10. CCTV (video surveillance): London is considered the most watched city in the world. There is said to be approximately one CCTV camera per every 11-14 people. In theory, all the surveillance should reduce crime, but, in reality, only ~3% of crimes are solved as a result of CCTV. Privacy activists view this as being spied on by Big Brother, but I personally don’t really mind. It’s the closest to celebrity status that I’ll probably ever get. Sport 11. English sport: Sport plays a prominent role in the English society. Many of the sports that the world competes in today were invented over here. That said, England is known to consistently under-perform on world sporting stages. The last World Cup win for England was in 1966; England last won a Rugby World Cup 13 years ago, in 2003; and it took nearly 80 years before one of Britain’s own won a men's singles Wimbledon Championship in 2013. Despite the constant sporting disappointments here, the fans maintain an incredible hopefulness. You can count on the English fanatical sport enthusiasts to tune in to each event with the confidence that this will be their year…Equally, you can almost always, just as reliably, count on failure and disappointment. Humor 12. The brilliance that is British humor: Combine a heavy-handed portion of sarcasm and a heaping serving of self-deprecation with a touch of wit. Add in a measured dose of spot-on timing, a dash of deadpan delivery and you’ve been served a dish of perfectly crafted British humor. The best part is that the Brits don’t leave the comedy to the professionals. I honestly don’t think I could make it through a full day of work if it wasn’t for the group of comedian colleagues who surround me. Vacation 13. Time off: Before I moved to the UK, I was under the impression that the British rarely ever worked. If they weren’t off for a bank holiday, they were sat at the pub all day. The bit about the pub isn’t entirely false, but the former is completely untrue. It turns out (much to my dismay) that in the UK there are in fact fewer annual public/bank holidays (8) than in the US (~11). That said, workers in the UK are entitled to considerably more paid vacation time (a minimum of 28 days inclusive of the bank holidays) than those in the US (no statutory minimum). However, compared to other countries in Europe, the time off in the UK is dismal. Once my UK visa is up, I might have to give serious consideration to moving to Austria or Portugal! 14. Flight length: When I lived in California, it was not uncommon to fly 6 hours cross-country for a weekend or even to more far off lands, such as Germany or Tel Aviv. Now that I live in Europe and everything is so close, I find myself reconsidering weekend trips if the flight duration is anything over 2 hours. I know, I know, spoiled, jet-setter problems. Measurement 15. Metric system fails: In the US, I grew up learning/using imperial units (feet, miles, gallons, inches, pounds) as a system of measurement. I’ve had to try to learn to adopt the metric system since my relocation...And I have not done so particularly well. A few months after my arrival in the UK, I ordered an engraved cutting board as a wedding present. On the site it was indicated to be 20x15x2cm. That pretty much meant nothing to me, so I went ahead and entered the engraving specifics, shipping and payment details. When it arrived, it was so tiny that you could barely cut and apple on it. Since it was personalized, I had no option but to wrap it up, gift it and sincerely apologize. (Sorry again, Morgan and Kevin). Public Transit 16. Who are these people?: I’ve seen some odd things on trains in this country. Perhaps it’s down to the sheer volume of hours spent in transit, but, either way, I’d like to share some photos that have my commutes more interesting. Bathrooms 17. Outlets: Or should I say lack thereof? Do THAT many people really die from electrocution in their lavatory? Is legislation banning electrical sockets in all UK bathrooms entirely necessary? Charging my electric toothbrush and blow-drying my hair in my bedroom is rather bothersome. 18. Warm water impossibilities: Why oh why are the hot and cold faucets separate in sinks over here? My options are boiling or freezing. It’s impossible to create lukewarm water without a mixer tap. So there you have it...All my very wise and clever learnings from two years spent in London. Stay tuned for more quips as my time here continues.
- the wild and wonderous azores
The nine volcanic islands that make up the Portuguese archipelago, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, are collectively known as the Azores. They are divided into three clusters. The Western Group is comprised of Flores and Corvo. The Central Group has Terceira, Graciosa, Faial, São Jorge and Pico. And the Eastern Group consists of Santa Maria and São Miguel. My time was spent solely on São Miguel, aptly nicknamed ’The Green Island’ because of its lush landscapes, rolling hillsides, forests and plantations. Ponta Delgada serves as the capital of São Miguel and is the gateway to the island's famous crater lakes, thermal activities, waterfalls and rugged coastline. Despite being the largest and most populous municipality in the Azores, Ponta Delgado was pretty quiet when I was there. My friend and I arrived at João Paulo II airport (PDL), in Ponta Delgado, after flying via Lisbon, from London Heathrow. At the time of writing this, there were direct flights from Stansted, but not from any other London airports. We rented a new and very affordable car from Magic Islands rent-a-car, but I wouldn't recommend them as they turned out to be scam artists. We should have read the reviews in advance of booking with them. I guess you get what you pay for. After what felt like a long day of travel, we enjoyed a lengthy dinner at A Tasca and then went straight to bed, so we'd be fresh and ready to hit the road the next morning. We rested our heads in very comfortable beds at the Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico. ROAD TRIP DAY ONE The first day of the journey was focused on the western side of São Miguel. We drove about 25 minutes to the civil parish known as Sete Cidades, which has 15 attractions but is most famous for its Twin Lakes. We stopped at the following five spots (each had a small parking lot/pull-off nearby): 1. Miradouro do Pico do Carvão- We initially pulled over to see what the crowd of people were looking at. When we opened our car doors, and they nearly blew off their hinges, due to wind, we decided to snap a couple of quick photos and then promptly carry on to the next point of interest. 2. Aqueduto do Carvão - 600 meters down the road, we pulled over again, to check out the old stone aqueduct that has been preserved by the moss and vegetation covering it. Originally, it was built at the request of the Town Hall, to carry water from the Canário and Empadadas lakes to Ponta Delgada. 3. Lagoa do Canario - After driving another five minutes, we parked and walked down some cool forest steps that were built between tree trunks, to get to this lake. Later in the day, we attempted to go to Miradouro da Boco do Inferno, but were unable to navigate to it on Google Maps. Whilst writing this blog, I learned that you actually access it by taking the dirt track to the right of Lagoa do Canario. If you follow the road around to the left, after a few kilometers, you'll find some steps on the left. Climb those steps and continue on the trail for about ten minutes to reach the Boco do Inferno lookout (which looks pretty darn spectacular). 4. Miradouro da Vista do Rei - We drove for about another ten minutes to get to 'The King's View'. As one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Portugal, this is the showstopper that has put the Azores on the map. Here you'll experience a breathtaking panoramic view of a crater filled with two lakes. If you're lucky, and the weather is playing ball, one lake will appear blue (Lagoa Azul) and the other will be green (Lagoa Verde) - this is due to algae content and depth of each. When you get to this viewpoint, you'll notice the derelict Monte Palace looming overhead. This luxury hotel was abandoned from almost the day it was built, back in the 1980s. Deserted for over 25 years, it now looks a little like the set for a horror film. Despite the warning signs not to enter, you can wander around freely and climb up to the roof for even better views of the Twin Lakes. 5. Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras - Driving another four or so kilometers will bring you to another scenic wonder that offers a different perspective of the Twin Lakes of Sete Cidades, overlooking the bridge that divides them. As you descend from the above lookouts, into the crater, and towards the village of Sete Cidades, in the summer months, you’ll find yourself on 'hydrangea highway'. The hedgerows along this road are apparently drenched in flowers from May to September. Since it was mid-April when I was there, the flowers were not yet in bloom. We then drove across the bridge that bisects the Twin Lakes, into the teeny tiny town, for lunch at Tea House 'O Poejo'. After lunching, we left Sete Cidades and ventured (about 20 minutes) over to Feteiras, to check out the rocky coastline. En route back to Ponta Delgado, we made another pitstop in Relva, for more coastal views. It was unbearably windy though, so we didn't stay long. Once back in Ponta Delgado, we wandered around the sleepy city, stopping at a few places to eat and drink (Louvre Michaelense for drinks and then Taberna Boavista for dinner). That night we, again, stayed at the Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico. ROAD TRIP DAY TWO After another tranquil night's sleep, we ate breakfast, checked out and headed northeast to begin our 'thermal day', where everything we had planned revolved around geothermal activity. We had a reservation, from 10:30am to 12:30pm, to soak in the four naturally-heated thermal pools at Caldeira Velha. Leaving our hotel at 10:00am got us there with plenty of time to park (300m away), walk up a bunch of stairs, stand in a queue (despite having booked in advance) and still enter at our allotted timeslot. It was all a little hectic and the staff were unhelpful. In fact, this was the only place, anywhere on the island where we had anything less than perfect service, from the most delightful people. It wasn't clear how/where to get the padlocks for the hired (tiny) lockers and there was a TON of people/children all crowded around the very basic changing facilities (i.e. a wooden shed divided into three stalls). As such, I'd recommend wearing your bathing suit and flip-flops, bringing a towel and a bag for wet stuff and leaving any jewelry in the car (it'll tarnish). Although it was all a bit of a faff and overcrowded, the verdant, forested grounds were beautiful. 20 minutes further north and further east, we passed Gorreana Tea Plantation and decided to stop to check it out (the joys of a road trip!). It turns out that the Azores are the home to the oldest tea plantation in Europe. Gorreana is family-run and has been in operation for almost 300 years. It's free to walk around and bookings are not required. The neat rows of hedges were very satisfying for my OCD. We carried on driving about 20 minutes eastward, to Furnas. We had some time to kill before lunch so wandered around the quaint town. We passed a church and a water mill before we noticed clouds of sulphureous vapor ahead. Intrigued, we got closer, we noticed the bubbling hot springs and the plopping of boiling clay. It was like a mini Yellowstone. At 13:00 we had lunch at the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel. Our waiter generously gifted us with a voucher to visit Terra Nostra Park afterward, granting us access to the botanical gardens and the murky, golden-brown thermal pool. Don't let the color put you off though, it's just the iron in the mineral water. But if you are going to get wet, wear an old, dark-colored bathing suit that you don't care about staining. The Romantic-style botanical garden is stunning and full of exotic vegetation. Allow for time to walk around and enjoy the beauty and tranquility. That evening, we had dinner at Restaurante Tony's. If you want to try the famous 'Cozido', email to make a booking and pre-order at least 24 hours in advance. This regional dish is slowly cooked in pots buried in the ground, using the heat from volcanic activity. This meat stew is comprised of beef, pork, chicken, sausage and chorizo served with rice and vegetables. In a quick attempt to burn off a few of dinner's calories, before getting in a swimsuit, we walked 20 minutes to our next destination - Poça da Dona Beija. We soaked under the stars at this natural hot spring facility, which was pretty magical. This place was much more high-tech and civilized than Caldeira Velha in the AM. It is mandatory to book tickets in advance. The lovely people at Poça da Dona Beija called us a taxi (€5 for about a 5-minute ride) to take us back to our hotel, Octant Furnas. ROAD TRIP DAY THREE As an Octant Furnas guest, we had 24-hour access to the indoor and outdoor thermal pools, so we started the day off with a dip. We were also each gifted a 20-minute flotation bed treatment, so we continued our hydrotherapy circuit until we had to check out. After leaving Furnas, we headed west, to the Lagoa do Fogo viewpoint, which is located pretty much bang in the center of São Miguel Island. Seeing the lake with clear skies is the goal, but the weather changes quickly and varies vastly across the island. We were lucky enough to get a view of the lake, but the strong winds disincentivized us from hiking. The trail starting from that overlook, was steep and muddy and uninviting due to the heavy cloud cover. Since our attempt to hike had been obliterated by low lying clouds, mud and wind, we decided to have lunch and then give it another go. So, we drove 25 minutes to Bar Caloura in Vila Franca do Campo. This easy breezy seafood restaurant is very casual and right on the water. They don't take reservations, so you might have to wait for a seat. Get the Limpets. We went back to Lagoa do Fogo after lunch, but the winds were even stronger on this attempt. Hiking plans thwarted, we drove 25 minutes southwest to our beautiful hotel, White Exclusive Suites & Villas, and had a few wines on the terrace overlooking the sea instead. All was not lost. That evening, we dined at the hotel, Cardume Restaurant, and had the best meal of our whole trip. I can't recommend this hotel enough. ROAD TRIP DAY FOUR We enjoyed a lie in, a private Pilates session and breakfast White Exclusive Suite & Villas before we had to check out, fill up the car hire, drop the rental off and get to the airport for our flight back to London (via Lisbon). A visit to the Azores should be on everyone's list. It's a chance to immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage, explore rugged landscapes and enjoy the warm hospitality of the locals. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Driving: Roads were well paved and easy to navigate. We never drove more than about 40 minutes between sites. We saw no police. Be aware that people stop and park wherever they like. Weather: Although temperatures usually remain mild all year, the rain and cloud cover can be volatile and unpredictable. You can experience all four seasons in a day. Every time we opened the car door, we were unsure what we'd be stepping into - sun, rain, wind, cold. Attire: Bring lots of layers. It can be colder than you expect. There is no need to dress up anywhere on the island. People are mainly in hiking gear. Sustainability: The Azores is considered one of the top most sustainable travel destinations. From a focus on conservation of natural areas, hiking trails and marine life, the islands place an emphasis on renewable energy. Safety: The Azores is known to be one of the safest locations in the world. Affordability: Despite a remote location, the strong Euro and lack of mass tourism certainly help. Meals with a three-course dinner and drinks average only ~€40 per person. Azores vs Madeira: Both islands are filled with friendly people, English-speakers, stunning vistas and spectacular hiking. But I'd say that the Azores are more serene, eco-friendly and low-key in terms of modern development and tourism. The food is inferior. #açores #azores #azorean #saomiguel #pontodelgado #feteiras #relva #furnas #lagoa #portugal #setecidades
- las fallas in valencia, spain
As Spain's third largest city, Valencia is often, unjustly, overshadowed by Barcelona and Madrid. This hidden gem of a city is full of tradition, color, gastronomy, fire, music and joy - Particularly during Las Fallas (the city's largest celebration and one of the craziest festivals in all of Spain)! The origin of Las Fallas dates back to the 15th century, when carpenters and other artisans celebrated the additional hours of daylight gained by the arrival of spring. Their parrots (the plank of wood attached to their lanterns, used to light up workshops during the winter months) were burnt at their doors in commemoration. Craftsmen and other people from the neighborhood would feed the fire with shavings of wood, old furniture and other flammable objects. Traditions gradually evolved and the parrots were given arms and legs, to make them more human-like. Clothes, hats and other adornments were eventually added. After a period of time, the parrots became known as ninots (doll-like effigies/puppets -- a group of ninots make up a fallas or fallero monument). Ninots today often depict famous people and/or critique current affairs, with a good dose of humor, satire and creativity. There are about 800 monuments set up in Valencia's streets and squares during the festival. Each take many months to design/build and can cost thousands of Euros. Individual ninots and elements of the fallas are hand-made, using various materials like cardboard, wood, plaster, Styrofoam, polyester and papier-mâché. They are constructed in warehouses and then installed in the streets, where the finishing touches are applied. The dates of Las Fallas festivities are officially 1st - 19th March, with things really ramping up from the 15th. The final five days and nights of Fallas are one big, continuous street party with lots of noise (fireworks, sparklers, poppers, music, parades, percussions, singing and car alarms). Around midnight on March 19th, at the culmination of the Fallas festival, the effigies are reduced to ashes in a ceremony known as La Cremà (the burning). Similar to the annual US pardoning of a turkey on Thanksgiving, one ninot is selected, by popular vote, and spared from the flames. That winning ninot goes on display at the Fallero Museum. I highly recommend experiencing this spectacular event in Valencia, but if your travels don't coincide with Las Fallas, below is a closer look at some of the other things that this lovely city on the coast of Spain has to offer. EXPLORE If it's nice out (and it probably will be since Valencia gets ~300 days of sunshine a year), go to the beach to catch some rays and shoot some hoops (errrr?). Check out one of the main works of Valencian Art Nouveau at Mercado de Colón. Whilst you're there, you might as well have a delicious sangria (for ~€4) at Wine & Flowers. Stroll through Plaza de la Reina (The Queen's Square) and take in the sights and sounds. The Lonja de la Seda (Valencian Silk Exchange) is one of Spain’s most beautiful, civil Gothic buildings. It was built during the Golden Age, when the city became famous for its silk trade. The Lonja became part of the UNESCO World Heritage in 1996. I only admired the building’s exterior, but it is possible to go inside. The Plaza de la Virgen, surrounded by historic buildings, was once the forum of Roman Valencia. Select an outdoor cafe, sit back, relax, have a drink and people watch. During Fallas, numerous parades will pass by you and the plaza will be buzzing. One of Valencia’s most iconic and futuristic landmarks is its City of Arts and Sciences. This architectural jewel is one of the largest scientific and cultural complexes in all of Europe. It is composed of impressive, avant-garde buildings, shallow blue pools and elevated walkways. Even if you don't have the time or desire to explore the museums, it's worth seeing the exterior of this complex. You'll find L'Oceanogràfic (Europe's largest aquarium) located at the far end of the City of Arts and Sciences complex. It is massive and impressive, and not just for kids. You could easily spend a whole day there. Buy tickets online, in advance, to avoid the queues. Valencia has one of the best urban parks in Spain. Turia Park is the perfect place to enjoy a walk, go for a jog, play sports or cycle. Just watch out for kiddos throwing firecrackers during Las Fallas. After dinner one night, enjoy an intimate flamenco show at El Toro y La Luna. You'll be welcomed here like you're family. CONSUME Valencia is the birthplace of paella, so get your fill. I had a lunch of champions, at El Tromp Paella House, when I was by the beach. Start with the Manchego and a sangria. Then share the lobster paella. Muy delicioso! If you fancy a cocktail and maybe a small bite, when you're by the beach, pop by the saloon-style Cerveseria Fregidura Sant Patrici. Indulge in some tapas at Clann, because, well, it's Spain! Try the stuffed tomatoes, grilled vegies and melted queso at this cozy joint, on a side street near The Plaza de la Virgen. Enjoy some egg-based dishes at Ahuevo in the Old Town. If you're nearby the Arts and Sciences complex and start to feel peckish, enjoy a few starters at Contrapunto. I recommend the shrimp and artichoke appetizers. Dinner at Vuelve Carolina is a must! This bright, contemporary space offers innovative cocktails and dishes. It's Michelin-level at a fraction of the price. If you like to be on a rooftop, like I do, I suggest daytime drinks at Hotel Puerta Serranos and night-time dessert/digestifs at El Mirador rooftop at Only YOU hotel. I was unable to get a reservation at Voltereta, but it looked beautiful and had great reviews. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Accommodations: If you visit for Las Fallas, stay centrally, near a Metro station so you can get to the airport. 700 streets are shut and become pedestrianized during the festival making it difficult for taxis/Ubers to operate. Local Eats: Try the Fartons. They may have a funny name, but they are typical Valencian confectionery sweets. Elongated and glazed with sugar, they are made of flour, milk, sugar, oil, eggs and a leavening agent. Language: Valencia has its own language - Valenciano. They do speak Spanish as well. #valencia #spain #espana #europe #lasfallas
- cartagena de indias, colombia
Counterpoint to my usual travel style, I didn't do a whole lot during my two weeks in Cartagena. I mainly worked on my tan, read a bunch of books, took lots of naps, walked on the beach, spent quality time with my family and ate my body weight in ceviche. That said, everything I did see, do and consume was wonderful! Below is my guide to the sights, sounds and flavors of this coastal Colombian gem. EXPLORE OLD TOWN (AKA OLD CITY, WALLED CITY, HISTORICAL CENTER, EL CENTRO) The first thing I noticed within the confines of this Walled City were the bright, colorful doors and intricate knockers, which served as a charming entryway into the soul of Cartagena's eclectic Old Town. In addition to doors, the narrow streets were full of modern shops, boutique hotels, exquisite restaurants and a vibrant nightlife. The architecture and vibe felt a little like if New Orleans' French Quarter and Havana had a love-child. GETSEMANÍ Next-door to Old Town, was its edgier sibling, Getsemaní. This artsy, semi-residential enclave is famous for its street art. Formerly a seedy area, full of prostitution and crime, Getsemaní is now a hip place to soak up culture, drink rum cocktails and interact with local artists. LA TUNA FEST Not to be confused with the fish, a tuna is a group of university students from Spanish-speaking and Latin American countries who sing and play traditional instruments. The second International University Tunas Festival was hosted in Cartagena's Historic Center whilst I was visiting, which meant that there were lots of parades and entertaining street performances. ROSARIO ISLANDS A visit to Cartagena would not be complete without venturing offshore to this 27-island archipelago. The journey, by boat, takes less than two hours. Although it's choppy and wet, it's well worth it! Isla Grande, AKA Escobar Island, was once a place of escape for the famous drug baron. Here the Cocaine King built La Casa Grande, his 300-bedroom secret party mansion. After his death, in 1993, and the gradual collapse of the Medellín cartel, the Colombian government bought the island. El Patrón's former island hacienda is now abandoned, only inhabited by squatters and a family of wild pigs. During your boat tour, I recommend stopping by Aura Beach Hotel, on Isla Barú, for lunch in a rustic, yet chic, thatched-roof tiki hut, overlooking the sea. Given the opportunity, have a delicious piña colada, shaken up in front of you, by a floating bartender, in a canoe filled with spirits and garnishes. LA BOQUILLA This stretch of sand, just off the tourist trail is worth a visit, if for no other reason than to see a functioning city self-contained on a beach. You name it, it's happening here - police patrol, trash collection, restaurants, city bus stops, taxi service, paratriking, kite surfing, photo shoots and commerce. Be warned though, a cacophony of hawkers, touting everything from cervezas and ceviche to jewelry and knock-off Ray-Bans, will pester you. If you're lucky enough to catch a youth football beach game, you'll be in for treat. These hearty kids have to contend with heat, sand, no boundary lines and traffic. EAT/DRINK: Foodies, rejoice! If there's a South American paradise for gastronomy, Cartagena is it. Hidden amongst the cobbled streets of the Walled City are some of the most talented chefs in Colombia, serving up delicious food in alluring restaurants. *Be sure to book far in advance, as many of these hot tickets fill up quickly. My favorites were... CARMEN This came recommended to me by three different people and it lived up to the hype! The food was yummy and beautifully plated, the cocktails list was extensive, the service was top-notch and the live music was delightful. On a windy evening, sit in the courtyard at your own peril (below are all the items that I got assaulted by). ALMA You'll find Alma tucked inside the incredibly chic Casa San Agustin, a boutique hotel where my interior dreams have been realized. Chef Eljach blends Japanese, Italian and French culinary influences together with local ingredients and anything that lives in the sea. CANDÉ Another star in Cartagena's dining constellation is this quirky, fanciful and very cool restaurant. It felt a little Alice in Wonderland-y, in a fun way. The food was an exotic blend of Colombian, Caribbean and Spanish and the dance shows throughout the meal were a bonus. LOBO DE MAR This is a slightly less formal dining option than some others on this list. It has a warm atmosphere, with great service and fun live music. Start with the tuna tataki. BUENA VIDA MARISQUERIA The restaurant's colorful and laid-back ambiance, great food and occasional live music make it a favorite rooftop dining spot for both locals and tourists. MAREA This delightful terrace overlooks the port where party-goers embark on their booze cruises. Go for the people watching, stay for the polpo starter and mujarra with creamy coconut rice. DOÑA LOLA Housed within the Casa Lola hotel, in the happening Getsemaní neighborhood, you'll find this decadently decorated space. If you're traveling with picky kids, the hamburger is served in an elaborate and unconventional way. SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA HOTEL Have a drink in the garden at this award-winning colonial luxury hotel located in the heart of Cartagena's historic center. Sofitel revived this former monastery, which dates back to 1621, but has maintained many of the historical elements and quirks. Every day at 6pm, waiters dressed as monks put candles on the tables in the courtyard to an accompaniment of chapel music. DONJUAN This buzzy, but relaxed, jungle atmosphere is perfect for lunch or dinner. The staff were friendly, but a tad slow. CAFÉ DEL MAR Take a walk along the wall at sunset. If you can get in, have a sundowner at Cafe del Mar. This place gets PACKED, so book in advance, via What’s App, from their website. LA MULATA Expect no-frills, filling Colombian food. The menu is limited, but the food is great and reasonably priced. You'll find mostly locals and backpackers in here. ROOFTOPS We attempted to go to the Movich Hotel rooftop, but it was closed for a private event. So we went to the Sophia Hotel to try to go to their rooftop, but it was at capacity. The La Cata rooftop, in the Santa Catalina Hotel was hosting a wedding. We finally found a spot at the Mirador Gastro Bar rooftop, but there was no sunset view. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Celele, voted one of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants, was on my list, but I had to cancel my reservation. Apparently this is not to be missed though. Likewise, I did not make it to Alquimico nor El Barón (both also on the 50 Best List), despite my best intentions. With its gorgeous Old City, funky neighborhoods, picturesque beaches, and top-notch culinary and nightlife scene, Cartagena ticks all the boxes for that South American vacation you’ve been longing for. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Airline Quirk: If you fly Avianca to/from Colombia, they will make you fold your blankets and put them behind your backs for take-off. No idea why. Weather: It's always hot and humid in Cartagena. And the sun is super strong! But, from January to March, the winds provide some relief and also eliminate flying bugs. Rainy season is considered to be September-November, with October being the rainiest month. Transportation: The Old Town/Getsemaní are best explored on foot. Outside the central area taxis and Ubers are widely available and affordable (a couple bucks for a 15-20 min drive). Be warned that the cars are small and junky, often held together by duct tape. Mobiles: I was told, by many people, including locals, not to have my mobile phone put in plain site. But I must admit that I wasn’t as careful as I should have been. All was fine in my case, but it's always good to be vigilant. Safety: Despite its dark and complicated past, Cartagena is one of the safest big cities in Colombia. Crime rates have dropped drastically. It felt safe to me and I didn't run into any issues, but like any city, be cautious and careful with your belongings and have your wits about you. Water: I wasn’t cautious about drinking from the tap and brushing my teeth with tap water and I didn't get sick. Tipping: Not necessary, but appreciated. Language: The language barrier is REAL! A lot of locals do not speak English. I would suggest downloading the Google Translate app. Currency Confusion: Colombia’s official currency is the peso (abbreviated as COP). Prices in Colombia are marked with a dollar sign, but remember that you’re seeing the price in Colombian pesos, not USD. The notes official denominations are $1,000, $2,000, $5,000, $10,000, $20,000, $50,000, and $100,000, but are labeled as 1 mil, 2 mil, 5 mil, 10 mil, 20 mil, 50 mil and 100 mil. And often times the amounts are written with periods instead of commas. So ‘20 mil’, 20.000, $20,000 and 20 (veinte) are all the same thing. #cartagena #getsemani #oldtown #bocagrande #rosarioislands #pabloescobar #baru #islagrande #colombia #southamerica #spanish
- old new year in belgrade, serbia
Like much of the world, Serbians celebrate New Year's Day on 1st January, but they also have a second observance on 14th January. The latter is known as the Old New Year, or Orthodox New Year. It's an informal, traditional holiday that follows the Julian calendar, and falls 13 days after the Gregorian calendar's NYE. 2024 was the year I decided I'd experience two New Years, two weeks apart. Technically, Belgrade became my 25th New Year's celebration spent in a new place. Although NYE part two ended up being fairly anticlimactic, it was still a good excuse to visit a new part of the world. Belgrade, Serbia's capital, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, existing for over 7,000 years. During that time, the city has quite literally been through the wars - it has been fought over in 115 conflicts and has been destroyed and rebuilt more than 44 times. It's a resilient, interesting city, refreshingly non-globalized, but aesthetically displeasing. The communist government that came to power after the Second World War didn’t seem to pay much attention to the decorative side of things. There's not doubt that Belgrade has been around the block and seen a few things. If you want to do the same, below are my recommendations for where to stay, eat, drink and wander. ACCOMODATION: I stayed at the four-star Townhouse 27, centrally located in the historic district. This boutique hotel has been awarded a Certificate of Excellence, from TripAdvisor, for five consecutive years. It was comfortable and affordable. The staff was lovely and helpful and the free continental breakfast was more than decent. Hotel Moskva - A landmark in Belgrade, dating back to 1908. It's one of the oldest hotels still operating in Serbia. Albert Einstein, Ray Charles, Robert De Niro, Louis Armstrong, Brad Pitt, Richard Nixon, Jack Nicholson and Alfred Hitchcock are some of their famous guests. Even if you don't book a room, go and enjoy a drink and cake. FOOD/DRINK: Communale is a nice Italian joint within in Beton Hala (a former abandoned warehouse transformed into a tourist landmark, along the Sava River, with many upscale restaurants and bars). Magellan - This Michelin-recommended, fine-dining establishment is across the Sava River, in New Belgrade. It felt a little like dining on a yacht. The food was plated beautifully, the wine was delicious, the service was impeccable, and we were even given a box of truffles as a parting gift. Demokratija Cocktails - This cocktail and coffee bar was so cute, good and cheap that I went twice! Damar Tartufi - Just down the street from Demokratija was this adorable truffle shop, offering truffle tastings for €10. Included in the tasting was a few tapenades, some shaved truffles in oil, cheese, chocolate and even truffle-infused wine. Iva New Balkan Cuisine - The minimalist dining room, along with a friendly staff made this space feel immediately welcoming. The cuisine was a modern take on traditional Serbian food and was delicious. Široka Staza - You'll find this cozy seafood restaurant along the Danube River, in Zemun (the view from the restaurant is below). We stumbled upon it by accident. To get there, go to the end of Dunavska Street and descend down the stairs. It'll be on your right. If you see a cat, or eight, milling about, you'll know you're in the right place. Be sure to order the grilled perch. DO/SEE: Temple of Saint Sava - One of the most recognizable symbols in Belgrade. This beacon of faith is not only the largest Serbian Orthodox church, it is the largest Orthodox place of worship in the Balkans and one of the largest in the world. Its total height reaches 82m with the dome being 70m high. The Square of the Republic - Located in the Stari Grad municipality, this is the site of some of Belgrade's most discernible public buildings, including the National Museum, the National Theatre and the statue of Prince Michael. Zemun - A cute, bohemian district, located within the Belgrade City area, known for its cafes, late-night bars and the fish restaurants along the riverside promenade. Gardoš hill, topped by an 1896 tower, offered vast Danube and city views. Visiting felt a little like a mini-break from the main metropolis of Belgrade. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Currency: Serbia is not part of the EU and therefore does not use the Euro (although prices are often quoted in Euros, and I think Euros are accepted in some places). Its currency, the Dinar, is valued low compared to the Euro, making Belgrade a spendthrift’s dream. Hospitality: Serbians are famously hospitable. It is a custom that can be traced back to their ancient Slavic belief that a host won’t gain any favor from the gods if they are not hospitable to guests. I found people to be warm and friendly and service was pretty much flawless. Tipping: Although not obligatory, if you are satisfied with your service then leave a tip of 10-15%, in cash. Tips cannot be added on to credit cards in restaurants. Smoking: You can still smoke everywhere - even inside restaurants and bars. Blah! Taxis: Car:Go is the closest thing to Uber that Belgrade has. Sadly, I wasn't able to set up an account with my UK mobile number. The Pink Taxi app was second best, but I still needed to communicate about my destination and pay at the end of the ride (usually in cash). Split Personality: Belgrade is bisected by the Sava River and is a town of two halves: the old and the new. The majority of my visit was spent on the Old Town side. Famous Serbs: The country has produced some significant athletes and scientific minds. Nikola Jokić, regarded as one of the greatest basketball players and centers of all-time hails from Serbia. Belgrade is the hometown of one of the world’s best tennis players – Novak Djokovic. And Nikola Tesla made great discoveries in the disciplines of electric current and magnetism. #belgrade #beograd #zemun #serbia #srbija #balkans #europe #newyearseve #orthodoxnewyears
- munching in mexico city
From street tacos and casual cantinas to smart seafood restaurants, the Mexican capital is full of flavor. The combination of historical roots, indigenous and colonial influences as well as contemporary gastronomic trends have put CDMX and Mexican food firmly on the world's stage. And most of the city’s top chefs are women! 👊🏼 I was only in town for five days, so I had to make every meal count. Based on my consumption, below are my recommendations for a delicious culinary journey through Mexico City. Breakfast Restaurante Lardo - One of Elena Reygadas' creations (2023's world's best female chef). This cozy Mediterranean restaurant provides service at all mealtimes, but the breakfast really stands out. I highly recommend the saffron risotto with eggs, olives and pine nuts as well as the rosemary and sugar bun. Tr3s Tonala - Located in the Roma district, the quiet terrace provides a relaxing morning setting where you can enjoy typical Mexican breakfast dishes such as huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. Lunch/Dinner Cantina del Bosque - This traditional cantina, with its old school service, white tablecloths and roaming mariachi bands, has been a Condesa favorite since 1937. The salt-baked fish and the cheese and potato quesadillas are must-orders. Be sure to wash it all down with a margarita! Taqueria Orinoco - The length of the line to order is a great indication of how good this taqueria is. Don't leave without having the tacos al pastor, which are arguably the best in all of CDMX. Pigeon - After strolling through Plaza Rio de Janeiro, snag yourself a sidewalk seat at this bistro and people watch whilst sipping wine and slurping oysters. Contramar - You will find this Roma neighborhood gem packed for the entire extended Mexican 'lunch hour' (which seemingly runs from midday to about 6pm). It's a place to see and be seen, known for its fresh seafood and vibrant atmosphere. The restaurant's signature dish is the tuna tostadas. The chef, Gabriela Cámara, is kind of a big deal. In 2019, she was appointed as food advisor to Mexico's President, Andrés Manuel López Obrador. Cantón Mexicali - One of the more interesting spots in Condesa is this retro restaurant that pays homage to the Chinese immigrants of the capital of Baja California. Every Mexicali-style Chinese dish we ordered was delicious! La Gruta - If you find yourself in Mexico State (about 45-mins outside of Mexico City), by the UNESCO Teotihuacan Pyramids, be sure to pop into this mystical cave for a meal. Bring a coat as it gets chilly in the grotto. Do yourself a favor and order the guacamole and barbacoa (pit-roasted lamb) tacos. Bars/Clubs Tlecan - If you're looking for a mezcaleria run by a badass woman, this is your spot. Soho House Mexico City - Soho House opened their first location in Latin America, in September of 2023, and it's BEAUTIFUL! You have to be a member, or be with a member, to enter. New Year's Eve On 31st December 2023, my dear friend Jodi Moreno teamed up with Edo Kobayashi to cook eighteen of us a six-course meal, at a really cool, intimate chef's table. She served biscuits with chili chive butter, oysters with ginger mignonette and crispy shallots, million layer potatoes with whipped ricotta, cauliflower parmesan soup, fried chicken with salsa macha and caviar and ended it all with a mamey creme brulee. It was a truly unique and filling way to ring in the new year! I hope this list helps you navigate Mexico City's culinary tourism and captures the essence of its gastronomic prowess. Bon appétit! KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Airport Arrival: There are egates that US (and a few other) passport holders can use. Be sure to keep the printout for when you depart. Big Little City: The population is over 21 million and it's 573 square miles yet, somehow, everyone knows everyone. Weather: Temperate most of the year. A San Diego-like climate. Reservations: Book restaurants and museums well in advance. Tipping: Consider a 15% tip as standard. Water: Only drink bottled or filtered water. Ice in drinks is usually made with filtered water. Safety: Strolling around central neighborhoods like Roma, Polanco, Coyoacán or Condesa is generally safe, but always be vigilant. Police can be corrupt. Taxis: Stay away from regular taxis and opt for Uber instead. Altitude: Mexico City sits at an elevation of 2240m. You might notice you are more tired than usual after a day or two of arrival. Stay hydrated. Earthquakes: Mexico has a sophisticated seismic alarm system that gives up to a 60-second warning before an earthquake hits the city. #mexicocity #mexico #cdmx #ciudaddemexico #northamerica
- chișinău, moldova
Chișinău (pronounced “kee-shee-now”), the capital of Moldova, is one of the least aesthetically pleasing European capitals. Years of war and two devastating earthquakes have left it a mix of ramshackled buildings, potholed roads and soviet apartment blocks. For all you who are thinking "Moldwhere?"...It's a former Soviet state, landlocked on the far eastern edge of Europe, wedged between Romania and Ukraine. It is renowned for being the second-least visited country in the world and one of the poorest countries in Europe, by pretty much every measure. Last decade it was also famously named the least happy place in the world, in the New York Times bestseller, The Geography of Bliss: One Grump's Search for the Happiest Places in the World. After that list of accolades, you probably haven't immediately started researching flights, and I don't blame you, but, but going to Chișinău shouldn't be ruled out entirely; it does have some redeeming qualities. For one it's cheap! I mean £0.58 for a pint cheap. Visiting is also a bit like entering a strange time warp. It hasn't fully moved on yet from its Soviet past, but trendy bars and restaurants are springing up. It's a combination of old-world charm, brutalist architecture, a fascinating history and world-class wine. Speaking of wine...Although few people know where Moldova is, even fewer are aware that Moldova is significant player in the wine industry - the 11th largest producer in Europe, to be precise, with the highest per capita number of vineyards in the world. 25% of Moldova's working population are employed within the viticulture and winemaking industry. But the country is dependent on alcohol more than just economically. According to the World Health Organisation, Moldova has the highest levels of alcohol consumption, with each person, over the age of 15, consuming 15.2 litres a year (equivalent to about 167 bottles of wine)! A winery tour/tasting should be top of your list of things to do, should you choose to visit Moldova. I went to Cricova Winery, located in the small town of Cricova, 15km from the capital. After Milestii Mici, another Moldovan winery, Cricova is the second-largest wine cellar on the planet. It's most famous for producing sparkling, utilising methods made famous by French monk Dom Pérignon. The underground wine city is 250 feet below sea level and consists of a labyrinth of tunnels, stretching 120km. It's so vast that there are traffic lights and many of the underground passages have street names (such as Cabernet Street and Sauvignon Street). The “streets” and “avenues” that make up the underground booze-storage metropolis are named for the wines they store, helping tour guides navigate visitors through the network by mini-train. Among the dignitaries and world leaders who store their private wine collections at Cricova are German Chancellor Angela Merkel, US President Joe Biden and Russian President Vladimir Putin. After the tour, we sampled an array of wines in one of the facility’s extravagant tasting rooms. Ours was called “The Sea Bottom". Whilst in Moldova, don't just sample wine at the wineries though. Expand your booze horizons at the following Instagram-worthy bars: Nobil Luxury Boutique Hotel: Visit the rooftop for panoramic city views and to enjoy a lunch or an evening cocktail under the stars. I also stayed at this hotel (five-starred, by Moldovan standards, but probably more like 4* anywhere else). Zaxi Rooftop at the Radisson Blu Leogrand Hotel: Whether you go for a daytime cocktail and cityscapes or at night for bougie bottle service with sparklers and live DJ performances, you're guaranteed some good people watching. Oliva Verde: On a hot summer's day, sit in the garden and enjoy the overhead misters as you sip wine and snack on antipasto. La Sarkis: Every fancy, luxury car that I saw in Chișinău was parked in the lot at La Sarkis. The restaurant was beautifully decorated indoors and out. I didn't eat here, but the wine sure was refreshing. PIERS: This outdoor seafood restaurant, adjacent to Chișinău's manmade beach, felt less like being in landlocked Moldova and a little more like being on the coast in Spain. Eli-Pili: This bar was strange and eclectic. I wouldn't actually recommend sampling their wine, but do have a sugary cocktail and enjoy the weird decor. EscoBar: See what they did there with the name of this underground Mexican cocktail den? Also clever was Pablo hidden within their QR code drinks menu. Marlène: This cocktail bar was closing as I entered, so I wasn't able to get a drink, but it looked really cute and had an intimate Parisian atmosphere that I would have liked to have enjoyed. In between sips, I managed to do a little sightseeing walking tour. Below are the highlights. Chișinău Water Tower: Formerly the main part of Chișinău's water system, this architectural monument is now a museum dedicated to the evolution of the water supply system. Riveting stuff! Valea Morilor Park: This tranquil, leafy park has a lake with walking paths surrounding it, a beach, a theater, a playground and even a small amusement park. There are four entrances, but the waterfall staircase, consisting of 218 steps, was the most impressive. Inside the park, if you look hard enough, you can find the smallest public monument in all of Moldova - the Little Prince (the hero of a novella written by Antoine de Saint-Exupery). The statue stands only 11 centimeters/4 inches tall and can be found replacing one of the spheres on the metal fencepost surrounding the lake. touch the little bronzed prince for good luck. After you locate Little Prince, I recommend renting a paddle boat, for 130 Leu (~£6), and pedaling around the lake for 30 minutes. The Moldovan Parliament: Formerly the headquarters of the Central Committee of Moldova’s Communist Party, is today home to the country’s democratic parliament. Monument to Stephen The Great: This statue, on the edge of Ștefan cel Mare Park, commemorates Stephen III (Stephen the Great) of Moldova, who ruled for 47 years in the 15th century and was reputed to be one of the most astute rulers of Europe at that time. Triumphal Arch: Chișinău’s very own Arc de Triomphe next to the Cathedral of the Nativity, was completed in 1831 to commemorate the Russian Empire’s victory over the Ottoman Empire in the Russo-Turkish war. This compact city is edging towards real democracy and a truly European standard of living but still has an untouched charm that appeals to the few visitors who venture this far east. Enjoy it whilst it's still cheap, quirky, off the beaten track and unpoiled by bachelor parties and the budget airline brigade. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas are no longer required to enter if you plan on staying less than 90 days. Have your hotel book you an airport transfer for your arrival. Despite what the Internet says, Bolt does not operate in Moldova. Nor does Uber. They do have Yandex, but it's Russian and you won't be able to download the app if you're phone is UK or US based. There's also iTaxi, but you need a local number to complete the set up. Taxis can be hard to find and drivers don’t speak much English. Be on the lookout for overcharging as well. Always agree on fare before getting in the car and don't prepay. Many younger Moldovans spoke good English, but this was not always the case, so be prepared with a phrasebook if necessary. The official language of the Republic of Moldova is Romanian. However, most people living in the country also speak fluent Russian. The currency in Moldova is the Leu (or Lei when plural). One GBP is currently equivalent to £23 MDL and one USD to about £19 MDL. People eat dinner around 8pm. I did not rate the food very highly in Moldova, but for a traditional feast, go to La Taifas, below Vatra Neamului. Beef, pork and cabbage are staples of Moldovan cuisine. Organised crime, textiles and wine are the biggest industries in Moldova. However, many people have left to find work elsewhere. What makes the caves perfect for wine storage is a year-round temperature of about 54 degrees Fahrenheit. Dress accordingly. There was a queue to enter the airport that took about 40 minutes. And the airport does not have the capability to accept mobile boarding passes, so you will need to check-in on premise. Allow for enough time when departing to accomodate both these things. #chișinău #moldova #easterneurope #europe #soviet #wine #cricova
- 2023 travels
It's that time of year again -- when I reflect on the past 12 months, document the places I've visited and reminisce about travel memories, adventures and achievements. This is my tenth year writing these! If you care to low-key stalk my whereabouts for the past nine years, you can view my travel summaries here: 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 / 2019 / 2020 / 2021 / 2022. In 2023, from a travel standpoint, I was most proud of the fact that I became a member of the Travelers' Century Club (TCC) - an international non-profit social organization for travelers who have visited at least one hundred of the world's countries and territories. Enough chit chat, let’s get to recapping... JANUARY I was in Manama, Bahrain, of all places, at the start of 2023. I was only there for about 28-hours, on an extended layover, as I made my way back to London from Muscat, Oman. The short stint worked out well though because the weather was rubbish. To circumvent the dampness, I visited the man-made Reef Island for lunch and then visited Gold City, where I treated myself to something sparkly to ring (💍) in the new year. In an attempt to combat the bleak, post-festive slump that the UK bestows upon its residents in January, I escaped for a weekend to the picturesque seaside Tunisian village known as Sidi Bou Säid (which means "Little Paradise"). It bears a striking resemblance to Santorini, with its white and blue architecture. It wasn't quite as warm as I had hoped it would be, but it sure was beautiful...and inexpensive. FEBRUARY The whole month of February was spent with my family in Madeira, Portugal. I had been once before, but only for a weekend. This time, I got to know the island more intimately and really took advantage of all the eating, drinking, hiking and Carnival festivities that Madeira had to offer! MARCH Aside from one countryside weekend spent enjoying long doggie walks, cherry blossom blooms and lazy pub lunches, I stayed put so I could catch up on life admin and with friends after being gone the entire previous month. APRIL Over the four-day Easter break, I enjoyed the historic sights, winding alleyways, shopping, buzzing riverside and distinctive cuisine that made Lyon, France a perfect destination for a long weekend. At the end of the month, I jetted off to Ibiza, Spain, with a group, to celebrate a friend's birthday. I was pleased to find the island to be just as fun and beautiful as I remembered it from previous visits. MAY On 6th May 2023, the UK celebrated its first royal Coronation since 1953. The Prime Minister proclaimed Monday, 8th May 2023 an additional UK bank holiday, in honor of His Majesty King Charles III. I took advantage of the extra day off and utilized it as part of a wider France wine tasting tour - in which I visited various châteaus throughout Bordeaux, Saint Émilion, Beaujolais, Sancerre, Chablis and Paris. JUNE Because I had to renew my work visa (for the final time), I was forced to remain stationary and wasn't able to leave the country for what ended up being ten consecutive weeks. I used this time to partake in all of London's summer offerings. I played a fair bit of tennis, picnicked with friends, visited Wisely Gardens, took a boat trip down the Thames, watched Wether at the Royal Opera House and attended the Cinch Championships tennis finals. I also dined at Le Petit Chef, which wasn't the most delicious tasting menu I've ever consumed, but it was a fun concept. This theatrical experience used 3D projection mapping and holograms to take me on an immersive culinary journey with the world's smallest chef, as he cooked right on my table, and found himself in precarious situations along the way. JULY I was lucky enough to score a pair of tickets to Wimbledon on the men's singles finals day. This was my fifth time attending the Grand Slam tournament and I love it more and more every time. I also had the pleasure of experiencing the relentless conditions that the heatwave of 2023 behest upon Spain when I visited Madrid & Toledo. Watching the peacocks display their feathers in Retiro Park was one of the highlights, but there were many culinary delights along the way as well. AUGUST For a week of relaxation (despite still having to work), I went to my aunt and uncle's new house in Pine River Pond, New Hampshire, USA. I thoroughly enjoyed lake life and got to see some spectacular sunrises and sunsets. After New Hampshire, I spent a week in Connecticut, catching up with friends and family. There seemed to be a bit of an unintentional sunflower theme during my time in CT, inclusive of a maze and vase painting. SEPTEMBER There are a myriad of reasons to love travel within the Autumn shoulder season, not least of which includes temperate weather nearly globally, fewer crowds/kiddos and lower costs on flights and lodgings. This year's trip between the peak and off-seasons was spent in Southeast Asia. I was in Singapore for one day/night, to visit a friend. I hadn't visited in 13 years, so there was a lot to see and do during my short stay. Then, it was onward to Indonesia, where I monkeyed around Bali, Nusa Penida, Borneo, Java and the Komodo National Park islands, for the better part of three weeks. Immediately following my Southeast Asia trip, I went to Athens, Greece, to top up my tan and eat all the Greek food. I heard mixed reviews about Athens before visiting, and, although it was gritty, I really enjoyed it. OCTOBER I got into the Halloween spirit in Romania. I stayed in Bucharest but made a special trip out to Bran Castle (home of Dracula). COVID may not have been working against the travel industry so much anymore, but other setbacks started to rear their ugly heads. This time, in the form of a recession, bedbugs and war. I had three, back-to-back, trips canceled in October due to circumstances relating to these issues - Prague, Amsterdam and Paris. NOVEMBER On 18th November, I hit the Big Apple for a couple of wild nights, before taking the train to Connecticut to celebrate Thanksgiving. It's always a hectic, but fun and delicious week filled with family, friends, gratefulness and carbs. This year, I was extra thankful for the special guests who surprised us from Florida and Georgia. DECEMBER After the craziness in New York and Connecticut, it was off to Barbados, for a full week of R & R. Beautiful beaches, clear sea, delicious seafood, boats, sunsets, rum, lovely people and swimming with turtles were just a few of the many highlights! My 24th consecutive New Year's Eve away was spent munching my way through in Mexico City, Mexico with my dear friend from university! 2023 was great for me personally, travel-wise, but it was a weird year overall. There were many world changes - natural disasters, economic turmoil, humanitarian crises and the ravages of terrorism, conflict and war. Hopefully next year will be calmer and simpler and full of further explorations for everyone! STATS FROM 2023 TRAVELS: Trips: 13 (14 in 2022) Air Miles Flown: 60,027 (2.4x around the world) Airline Segments Flown: 34 (29 in 2022) Airlines Flown: 10 (10 in 2022) Amount of Time Spent in the Air: 132 hours (121 in 2022) Total Countries Visited: 12 (16 in 2022) New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 5 (7 in 2022) Continents Visited: 4 (North America, Asia, Africa & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hired Accommodation: 84 (60 in 2022) #yearinreview #yearintravel #2023 #manama #bahrain #middleeast #sidibousäid #tunisia #africa #northafrica #funchal #madeira #portugal #lyon #france #casablanca #morocco #ibiza #formentera #spain #balearicislands #france #bordeaux #saintemilion #beaujolais #loirevalley #sancerre #paris #winetasting #madrid #toledo #spain #newhampshire #connecticut #usa #northamerica #singapore #indonesia #bali #borneo #nusapenida #java #komodonationalparkislands #floresisland #asia #southeastasia #athens #greece #bucharest #romania #newyork #newyorkcity #europe #barbados #caribbean #mexicocity #mexico
- unwinding in beautiful barbados
A calm week in Barbados was just what the doctor ordered after a fun, but hectic, Thanksgiving week, spent between New York and Connecticut. Contrary to popular belief, Barbados is geographically located in the western Atlantic Ocean, just east of the Caribbean Sea. Although this independent British Commonwealth island nation is not technically part of the Caribbean, it is still known for its tropical climate, white sand beaches, crystal clear waters, rich marine life, laid-back vibe and delicious local cuisine. It's also the birthplace of rum and has an exciting pirate history! ACCOMODATION I stayed at the Colony Club, set on seven acres of land in the exclusive St. James area of the island. I was upgraded to a spacious suite surrounded by lush tropical scenery. Although the room was very comfortable, offered a lot of amenities and the grounds were lovely, the hotel was in need of renovations - which I hear will be happening in 2024. ACTIVITIES There probably were many things to do and see on the island, but I mainly spent my week relaxing. The biggest decisions I made each morning were what to have for breakfast and whether to sun myself by the beach or the pool. I did spend a bit of time at sea though. I went out on a two-hour glass bottom boat excursion, where I drank rum punch and snorkeled amongst beautiful coral reefs and the S.S. Stavronikita freighter that sunk in 1978. Another day, I hired a luxury private boat for six hours (through Seaduced, which I HIGHLY recommend). Sebastian and Stacey collected me from the beach, at my hotel. We sailed up and down the West Coast, looking at posh residences and restaurants, all whilst being plied with delicious snacks and a full bar selection. I was dropped off at The Fish Pot for lunch. Afterward, I had the most magical experience snorkeling with a green turtle. The reptile swam with me for about ten minutes, popping his head above water to say hello and letting me pet him. I expected his shell to be rough and barnacley, but it was very smooth. *Fun fact: If turtles get too fat they can fracture their shell and become unable to pull their legs in and out. Poor little guys. FOOD/DRINK I enjoyed some delicious slices of paradise at the following restaurants... QP Bistro - Go for good food and good vibes! This place is breath taking with its multi-levels, hanging plants, water features and the most captivating view of the ocean. The live music is a bonus. You do have to book in advance and put down a sizeable deposit. About a five-minute walk from my hotel was the Horny Ram. I expected it to be a total dive, but it was actually a really lovely, informal, local gastro pub. The owners have a boat and catch the fish fresh each day. It was so good that we went twice. Next-door to the Horny Ram, is its sister restaurant, SeaCat, owned by the same people. The term sea cat is slang for octopus and the starter with the same name is not to be missed. The Tides is one of the top fine-dining beachfront restaurants in Barbados. Here, you'll eat whilst being serenaded by waves crashing against the rocky shore. There are also large trees in between the tables providing privacy and making it feel like you're in some sort of fancy treehouse. I received a lot of recommendations but didn't have time to visit many of them. Below is a list that I cannot vouch for, but I would like to go back and try: Sea Shed - Said to be ultra-chic, yet relaxed. Enjoy a ‘Shed Sunday’, sipping champagne by the magnum whilst listening to Bajan DJs. Due to growing popularity, it is recommended to book in advance. Baia - I'm told the ceviche is to die for. Lone Star - This beachfront restaurant and boutique hotel attracts high-profile guests (such as Simon Cowell and Rihanna) as well as other trendy clientele. La Cabane - You can relax at this St. Tropez-style beach bar haven all day. Pier One Restaurant - A full-service bar and restaurant set on a man-made island at the Port St. Charles Yacht Club. The Local - A farm-to-table restaurant, drinkery, beach club and marketplace housed in an early 1800's building on the beach. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas: Not required for Brits nor Americans Currency: Most places accept local Bajan currency or USD Taxis: Very expensive and require cash (USD or Bajan Dollars). There are no ride-sharing apps. It was 122 BBD from airport to the hotel (35 mins), 80 BBD to and from QP (9 mins) and 60 BBD to and from Tides (5 mins). Plugs: They use the same plugs as in the USA Weather: It was 26° - 29°C the whole week. We had two day of on/off quick rain showers, but mostly it was perfection Service & Tipping: Restaurants tend to run on island time (very slow), but everyone is friendly, so it makes it bearable. Tipping in Barbados is discretionary and should reflect the service you have received, however, a service charge of 10-15% is typically added to your bill in hotels and restaurants. Seating: In Barbados, you should be aware of the concept of wet or dry seating when making bookings. Wet seating offers you a beach chair and access to the beach/sea. Dry seating would be within the restaurant. Airport: Get to the BGI airport early as it took ages to get through check-in Independence Day: 30th November #barbados #caribbean #island #holetown #stjames #bridgetown
- cancellations, cancellations and more cancellations
Four weeks ago, I stood shocked, unsettled and saddened by London Heathrow's departures board. There were exactly seven flights departing from one of the world's busiest airports, on a Sunday evening. I was one of approximately ten passengers flying from London to Munich as the Coronavirus epidemic ramped up and the world began to shut down. I never thought I would say this, but I'm actually starting to miss some of the in-flight things that typically annoy me -- the people who are incapable of putting a number and a letter together to locate their assigned seat, those who linger in the aisles when everyone is trying to board, the mouth breathers, the fidgetters, the chatters (who insist on talking to you, even when when you're wearing headphones), even the crying babies. Okay, I lie, I'm not at all missing the crying babies. 28-days into quarantine and every single one of my 2020 travel plans have systematically unraveled. I've spent countless hours undoing all my meticulous planning. I've had to request refunds from hotels, airlines, tours, car hire companies, restaurants and airport transfers, for the following trips: 13th - 15th March: Tirana, Albania 20th - 27th March: London, UK 2nd - 6th April: Georgia & Armenia 10th - 13th April: Reykjavik, Iceland 16th - 20th April: Western Romania Road Trip 24th - 26th April: Madeira, Portugal 1st - 3rd May: Leeds, UK 5th - 10th May: Bulgaria Road Trip, with a stopover in London 16th - 25th May: Germany, Austria and Czech Republic Road Trip 28th May - 1st June: London, UK 19th - 22nd June: Corfu, Greece 24th - 26th July: London, UK In general, companies have been accommodating with cancellations, apart from the airlines. They have been difficult to deal with and keep trying to weasel their way out refunding people for flights they are cancelling, which, by the way, is illegal in the EU. I have dealt with nine different airlines so far and I can confirm they are not all equally terrible. Lufthansa has been, by far, the worst and British Airways has been the best in terms of speedy refunds and friendly customer service. The option to reschedule or get a voucher is quite easy, but refund options have been eliminated or buried deep within websites. The way I see it, the landscape is too uncertain to reschedule for later in the year and why would I want a voucher for an airline that may or may not even be in business much longer? If you want a refund, you must call and it's nearly impossible to get through to customer service, due to 'higher than normal call volumes'. Some automated systems hang up on you unless your flight is in the next 48 hours, leaving you no option to speak with a representative. Things are even more difficult if you were unlucky enough to have booked through a third party (Opodo, Dream World Travel, Expedia, etc.), rather than direct. The last time I have been flightless for this amount of time was three years ago, as I convalesced from a car accident. I feel like a bird whose flight feathers have been clipped and is grounded until the plumage becomes intact again, which could range anywhere from several months, up to years. I worry how humanity and travel will be impacted long-term. Will travel surge after stay-at-home orders are lifted or will people rethink things and only take meaningful trips? Will work travel be re-evaluated and limited, once work from home requirements are lifted, because people realize that face-to-face meetings aren't as necessary as they were once thought to be? How long will curfews and social gathering bans stick around for? How will accommodation, food and beverage services, recreation and entertainment, transportation and travel services be impacted? Will travel insurance policies be amended to specifically include or exclude pandemics moving forward? Will COVID-19 testing upon entry be required in most countries? Will visitors be required to quarantine upon arrival in certain destinations? Will certificates of immunity be required (once there is a vaccination)? Will visas be stricter or more relaxed? Will travel prices rise or fall as a result? A lot remains to be seen, but I personally can not wait for my wings to regrow and to start putting mileage on my tiny green shoes again. Stay safe, healthy and sane!!
- roaming around romania
Romania is a country that is often overlooked as a travel destination, despite its rich history, diverse landscapes, affordability and many myths and legends. Its capital, Bucharest, architecturally experienced its heyday between the First and Second World Wars, when French-inspired designers transformed it into a grand city. A good portion of the Belle Époque buildings were destroyed by World War II bombings and many more by the 7.2 magnitude earthquake in 1977. In the 1980's, dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu undertook a demolition and rebuilding program to create a Socialist capital, resulting in mostly rectangular, concrete blocks, devoid of decoration or individuality. Since the fall of the Communist regime, in 1989, the city has evolved, but scars from the past remain - many in the form of eyesore structures. As Bucharest continues to emerge from its Soviet times, it still is not a conventionally beautiful city, but what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in grit, determination, edgy spirit and a vibrant nightlife. I'd recommend spending a short while here before dashing off to find Dracula in Transylvania. BUCHAREST Stay Housed in the former building of Romania’s most influential bank during the late 19th century, the five-star Marmorosch Hotel is expansive and opulent. It features 217 rooms, four ballrooms, a pair of bars (be sure to have a drink in the Vault Bar), a fitness center and a spa with an indoor pool. It's located on the edge of Old Town, just 30-minutes from the airport. Sightsee Bucharest's pedestrian 'Old Town' is one of the youngest Old Towns in the world, with renovations only completing in 2011. What is now a touristy, nightlife-infused hub of Eastern Europe was a derelict and dangerous district of Romania’s capital at the turn of the 21st century. It's full of bachelor parties, cafes, pubs, clubs, restaurants and shops. You won't be able to miss the city's most notorious landmark - the Casa Poporului (also known as the People's House or People's Palace). It is the second largest administrative building in the world, after the Pentagon. One-sixth of Bucharest's land area was cleared, and 40,000 residents displaced, to make way for this building. It measures 365,000 square meters and contains 1,100 rooms. This colossal structure was commissioned by Nicolae Ceaușescu to reflect communist values. He was executed before it was finished though, and, in an ironic twist, this oversized symbol of communism became the headquarters of Parliament, a key democratic institution. Bulevardul Unirii (Union Boulevard), which was constructed at the same time as the Casa Poporului, connects the Palace with Unirii Square. Be sure to visit the Urban Fountains, at night, to witness the Water Symphony. The show runs every Friday, Saturday and Sunday between May and October. Consume If you are looking for traditional Romanian cuisine, stop by Caru’ cu bere for a meal. It is the oldest restaurant in Bucharest and its atmosphere is authentic. The establishment is known for its richly decorated interior, its large portions and live music/dancing. If you want a bird's-eye view of Bucharest, grab a cocktail at Amethyst Sky Bar (atop the Union Plaza Hotel). TRANSLYVANIA DAY TOUR Your tour will start with a 7:30am pick up at Hilton Garden Inn Bucharest Old Town. It's about a two-and-a-quarter-hour drive to your first stop: Peles Castle. Nestled at the foot of the Bucegi Mountains, in the picturesque town of Sinaia, Peles Castle is a masterpiece of German new-Renaissance architecture. Commissioned by King Carol I in 1873 and completed in 1883, this castle served as the summer residence of Romania's royal family, until 1947. It boasts 160 rooms, all adorned with the fine European artwork, paintings, chandeliers and stained-glass. Each room is decorated in a different theme. From Sinaia, you'll motor on for about another hour, to Brasov (a city in the southern Transylvania region of Romania). There you can see the Black Church (it's not actually black, but its exterior was somewhat blackened by a fire in 1689) and then you'll have lunch in the cute Old Townhall Square. Another 30-minutes further into Transylvania will bring you to Bran Castle, where you can experience all the history, myths and intrigue of Count Dracula - a fictitious character created by author Bram Stoker, in 1897. Vlad III Draculea also known as Vlad the Impaler (Vlad Tepes in Romanian) was the historical figure whom the literary character was loosely based upon. Vlad was a brutal, sadistic leader famous for torturing and killing his enemies, mainly by impalement. Because Bran Castle is the only castle in all of Transylvania that actually fits Stoker’s description of Dracula’s Castle, it is known throughout the world as Dracula’s Castle. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Getting Around: People drive on the right-hand side of the road. The roads are in very good condition. You can use Bolt and Uber ride-hailing apps to get around Bucharest easily and cheaply. Electrical: You'll need standard European plugs/adaptors in Romania (two round prongs). Tipping: Tips are not included on bills and servers like to remind their patrons. It's become expected that tourists leave small tips - 10–15%. Drinking Water: Tap water is drinkable. Currency: Although Romania is in the EU, it has not adopted the euro. They still use the Romanian leu or lei as their currency. Banknotes come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 although the 200 and 500 RON notes are seldom used. Homeless: Romania have a high rate of homeless. Don’t engage with the beggars, as they can become quite aggressive. #bucharest #sinaia #brașov #transylvania #pelescastle #brancastle #blackchurch #romania #easterneurope #europe #dracula
- unexpected athens
Is Athens gritty and graffiti-ridden? Yes. Is it also rich in history, artifacts, culture, heritage and cuisine? For sure. Is it worth Visiting? Absolutely! Athens is one of the oldest cities and longest inhabited cities in the world, dating back thousands of years. It has gifted the world with democracy, trial by jury, theater, the Olympics and clock towers. Most people quickly stop through the Greek capital, en route to the islands, but it has a lot to offer and is worth a dedicated itinerary of its own. Below are my endorsements... Stay The Foundry Suites: I initially looked at this hotel as a joke (my travel buddy and I both work for a company called Foundry). But, after clicking around only a short while, I booked it. Centrally located in Psyrri (a vibrant, edgy and gentrified district), this boutiquey accommodation is not your standard hotel. They have only 12 luxury, industrial-style lofts and offer a slew of cute amenities. TV's have been swapped for record players in the suites. For breakfast, which is included, you pick your menu and then an adorable picnic basket arrives at the time of your choosing, either to your room or to you on the roof terrace. A free welcome beverage, that you can enjoy any time during your stay, is provided. The staff are lovely and helpful. Oh, and it's super affordable! Historic Sites No trip to Athens is complete without visiting the Acropolis. I suggest booking your tickets in advance, for 8:00am (the first available slot), when there's a chance of smaller crowds. Don't bother showing up too early because they won't let you enter more than 15-minutes prior to your allotted time. Leave your stilettos at home, ladies. Since 2009, it's forbidden to wear heals when you're touring ancient monuments in Athens, because of concerns about scratching and damaging the stones. This ancient citadel consists of several important buildings, including the Parthenon and the Temple of Athena. During a visit to this iconic landmark, you can still see the age-old statues, beautiful ionic columns and old temples of worship. I suggest also visiting the Panathenaic Stadium. It's far less busy than the Acropolis and really neat. You can buy tickets onsite, for €10. Built in 330 BC, this stadium was home to the first modern Olympic Games, in 1896, and remains the only arena in the world built entirely out of marble. Don't miss the “Memories from Olympic Games: Posters and Torches from 1896 till today” permanent exhibition, which can be accessed through the tunnel located towards the rear of the stadium. Neighborhoods Right under the Acropolis sits a little village called The Plaka. Most of the streets are car-free, apart from the occasional motorbike/delivery truck. It's commercialized but has clean, picturesque streets and a ton of bustling cafes. Spend an hour or so café-hopping and taking photos of all of the colors. Adjacent to Plaka, you'll find the 19th-century neighborhood known as Anafiotika. The hustle and bustle of the city center melts away here. The cobblestoned alleys, white-washed walls, coloful doors and fuchsia bougainvillea will make you forget you're in the heart of a busy metropolitan city. Food/Drink If you're looking for one of the most Instagramable spots in Athens, look no further than Little Kook. It's not just a café; it's an experience. Serving mainly coffee and cakes, I don't necessarily recommend eating here, but definitely go have a look. The extravagant and quirky decorations change regularly and vary according to season (Valentine's Day, Halloween, Christmas, etc.). The Athenians do seem to love a theme. And once they pick one, they really commit! Noel is another of these overly-themed venues. Here, the magic of Christmas lasts all year. It's a nice place to go and have a drink, if you're feeling festive. I stumbled upon Thes "Greek creative cuisine", in search for lunch, and it was a great find! The flavors are fresh and bold, the atmosphere is chic and modern and the staff is friendly and attentive. Whether you’re in the mood for something light or something hearty, Thes has what you need. Make sure you order the Naxos Potatoes Triple Cooked. Boo! is an all-day cocktail bar, right in the beating heart of Athens. Its combination of wooden furniture and unique furnishings creates an eccentric and cozy atmosphere. Clumbsies is #19 on the World's 50 Best Bars list. Outside, it just looks like a house, with no signage. Inside, it's a cocktail lover’s paradise. The Attic Urban Rooftop has a sophisticated, contemporary, bohemian design and an unobstructed view of the Acropolis. Visit for a coffee or brunch in the morning, a sunny lunch, a highly Instagramable sunset drink on the flower-decorated swings or a stylish-casual dining and some tunes in the evening. Set in a restored neoclassical villa, Aleria is an elegant and delicious place to have dinner. The Greek cuisine is beautifully presented in two tasting menus (both with 5- or 6-course options): one 'Earth & Sea', the other, 'Garden & Nature'. The courtyard is beautiful, and the service is slick. T The view of the Acropolis from Strofi's roof terrace is one of the most impressive in town. Expect classic Greek dishes, white linen tablecloths and romantic vibes. Beach The beach isn't usually what springs to mind when you think of Athens, but like so many things about this diverse city, it is one of the many delights on offer. If it's nice weather, be sure to spend a day in the Athens Riviera. I went to Varkiza Resort Seaesta, which took about 30-minutes by cab. Athens is often overlooked and overshadowed by more glamorous European capitals and its own beautiful islands, but it boasts plenty of things to see, do and experience. Don't discount this destination for a city break. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Getting Around: People drive on the right-hand side of the road. You can use Free Now and Uber ride-hailing apps to get around easily and cheaply. Electrical: You'll need standard European plugs/adaptors in Greece (two round prongs). Tipping: There is not a strong tradition of tipping in Greece, particularly among the locals, but it's become expected that tourists leave small tips. 10–15% is standard. Drinking Water: Tap water is drinkable. Currency: Greece is a member of the Eurozone and its official currency is the Euro (€). #athens #ancientgreece #greece #europe #acropolis #parthenon #panathenaicstadium
- monkeying around in indonesia
More than 18,000 islands and 50 species of primates make up the archipelago of Indonesia. It's a country full of natural beauty, rare animals and warm, hospitable people. Over the course of two and a half weeks, I visited ten islands, got attacked by two monkeys and was urinated on by one orangutan. What an adventure! Read on for my recommendations, broken out by location and peppered with monkey tales. Quick Links: 1 Bali: 1.1 Ubud 1.2 Nusa Dua 2 Nusa Penida 3 Borneo: Pangkalan Bun 4 Java: Surabaya 5 Komodo National Park: 5.1 Flores Island 5.2 Padar Island 5.3 Komodo Island 5.4 Taka Makassar Island 5.5 Manta Point 5.6 Kanawa Island 6 Know Before You Go In anticipation of my Indo trip, Bali was the bit that I was most excited about visiting, but it ended up being the most disappointing. I can see why influencers, looking to promote their picture-perfect lifestyles, are drawn to Bali's beauty, but overtourism is tainting the island. The infrastructure is not robust enough to cope with the traffic nor waste management, there is incessant construction to keep pace with the demand, peaceful atmospheres have been ruined by badly behaved tourists, and, most upsetting of all, is the sorrowful amount of litter. That all said, with realistic expectations, research and a bit of patience, you can still find moments of tranquility in Bali. UBUD: Located in the uplands of Bali, Ubud is famous for its 'Eat, Pray, Love' vibes, wood carvings, Hindu temples, lush jungles, terraced rice fields, waterfalls and a whole lot of monkey business. Central Ubud is abuzz with motorbikes and young visitors searching for balance and harmony. Whilst in Ubud, I would recommend hiring a driver or booking a series of tours that include the following sights: Tanah Lot: This ancient Hindu shrine is famed for its unique offshore setting, perched on top of an outcrop amidst crashing waves. Ulan Danu Temple: A temple floating along the banks of Lake Bratan, devoted to the Hindu gods Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Tirta Empul Temple: One of the busiest and oldest (it's been around more than 1,000 years) sacred water temples in Indonesia. You'll find shrines, gates, courtyards and purification pools where hordes of people 'baptize' themselves underneath a succession of waterspouts. Jatiluwih Rice Terraces: Over 600 hectares of lush green paddy fields cascade in tiers from the mountains down to the valleys. In recognition of the ancient rice-growing culture, these fields became listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2012. Wanagiri Hidden Hill: Also known as 'selfie peak', panoramic views from up here are very popular amongst Instagrammers. We were planning to give it a miss as visibility was restricted by a foggy mist, but we ended up getting suckered into feeding some monkeys a bowl of bananas and peanuts (for about $1.30). At first, I wasn't that keen on getting so close to the Macaques, but it ended up being a hoot. Monkey Forest: Home to over 1,000 long-tailed monkeys, this sanctuary is one of the most well-known and visited places in Ubud. For a fee, the staff will take photos of you with a monkey on your lap. Be careful though, the monkeys are known to steal mobile phones, jewellery and sunglasses. They also can attack, if they feel threatened. Don't make eye contact nor smile with your teeth showing, as these are signs of aggression in the non-human world. Kemenuh Butterfly Park: Over 500 butterfly specimens flutter around you as you meander on paved pathways through a garden enclosure – all covered by netted canopies. It's very beautiful and serene, and not overrun with tourists...yet. Banyumala Twin Waterfalls: This is another place that, so far, hasn't been discovered by the masses. From the car park it's about a 20-minute walk, down steep steps to get to the waterfall. There are a few sketchy bamboo stairs, and it can be tough on the way back up! Tegenungan Waterfall: Opposite to Banyumala, this waterfall is heaving with tourists. It's one of the busiest and most famous falls in Bali. Swing Heaven: Swing parks, around Bali, allowing people to soar high above magnificent vistas, have become one of the most popular attractions on the island as a result of the Instagram craze. I was curious, so I decided to check one out. Swing Heaven was recommended, so off I went. There are various packages offered, at different price points. They will even rent you a flowy dress, if that is your desire. I found it all a bit silly, but I must admit that I had fun. After you've got your fill of sightseeing, fill your belly at the following Ubud restaurants: Swept Away: Upon arrival at the Samaya Hotel, a golf cart will shuttle you down to the restaurant, which is situated along bank of the Ayung River. You'll be treated a romantic setting, the peaceful sound of babbling water and delicious food. Sayan House: The cuisine is an interesting mix of Balinese, Japanese and Mexican (think sashimi tacos and guacamole rolls). It sounds weird, but it works. Book in advance and arrive in time to enjoy the sunset. Hujan Locale: This is one of Will Meyrick's creations (a Scottish celebrity chef, born in Portugal, based in Bali). The main dining room is on the second floor, surrounded by large windows, overlooking a Balinese temple. I liked its family-style grazing menu concept. Be sure to order the scallop ceviche, tuna betel leaf and braised beef rawon. Cafe Lotus: This restaurant overlooks a beautiful lotus pond and the iconic Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati (Water Palace). If you go for dinner on a Wednesday, you'll get a free traditional dance show along with your meal (show starts at 7:30pm). NUSA DUA This area of Bali is perfect for families, honeymooners and travelers who want to enjoy the perks of large luxurious resorts. It is a gated area, developed in the 1970’s, and is known for its fancy hotels, serenity, manicured gardens, golf and spas. If you're into lavish 5-star beachfront accommodations, with meticulously landscaped grounds, set against white sands bordering the Indian Ocean, then you might want to consider staying at the Sofitel. What I found most unique about the hotel was the swim-out rooms, which I had never seen before. Many of their ground-level rooms allow you to literally roll of out of bed and slide into a lagoon-like plunge waterway system. It's only 3.5' deep, so you can walk, float or swim directly to the main pool. Whilst in Nusa Dua, make sure you go to the Kecak Fire Dance Show at Uluwatu temple. You must pay an admission fee to enter the temple (40,000 IDR), separate to the fee for the show (100,000 IDR). The temple doesn’t accept plastic so make sure to bring enough cash. I recommend buying the ticket for the show in advance though, as it sells out very quickly, every night. Sarongs are provided at entry to the temple, for everyone to wear - men and women. Watch out for the monkeys walking around the complex. The primates are EVERYWHERE and WILL steal your snacks. They have acquired a taste for human food and can get aggressive if they don’t get what they want. One cheeky fella disrobed me in an attempt to get at my grocery bag. Luckily, he only got away with my sarong and some Pringles in the end. From Nusa Dua, we went on a one-day tour around Nusa Penida. We took a fast boat from Sanur, which took about 45-mins. Once we arrived, we had a private driver take us around to the following places: Kelingking Beach: The unique rock formation on this beach resembles the backbone of a dinosaur. It’s even nicknamed 'T-Rex Bay' on Google Maps. Broken Beach AKA Pasih Uug Beach: This horseshoe-shaped cove's limestone archway has been carved out by the water over the years. You cannot swim here; you can only admire it from the viewing area above. Angel's Billabong: Located right next to Broken Beach, this beautiful rockpool is a natural infinity pool that sits between rocky cliffs and the Indian Ocean. Many holidaymakers have perished trying to swim in it, so I recommend you keep your feet firmly planted on sturdy ground. Virgin Beach Club: We ended the tour relaxing at this beachfront restaurant, where we enjoyed swinging, sunning, shell searching and strawberry daiquiris. PANGKALAN BUN If you were to fly the 55-minutes from Bali to Surabaya you'd land five minutes before you took off, as a result of a one-hour time difference. After a short layover and a slight delay, we took another flight to Indonesian Borneo -- *Fun fact: Borneo is not a country; it is an island that is politically divided amongst three nations: Indonesia, Malaysia and Brunei. Of the three, Brunei is the only sovereign state situated entirely on the island. I spent the second flight, from Surabaya to Pangkalan Bun, reflecting on a time, 23 years ago, when the first ever series of Survivor aired. I remembered being intrigued by the remoteness of Borneo and mentally adding it to my bucket list. Whilst I was pleased not to be stranded in an isolated location, battling other contestants for food, shelter and fire, I certainly felt like I was going on quite an adventure! Pangakalan Bun was the jumping off point for our orangutan tour. We stayed at the Grand Kecubung Hotel, for one night, before the tour began. It was nicer than I expected it to be, but I was surprised to find out that there was no alcohol served onsite. I was even more surprised to learn that you cannot buy alcohol anywhere in Pangkalan Bun, because of Muslim customs. The next morning, we were collected around 10am to begin our dry three-day/two-night private tour aboard a klotok (a traditional river houseboat). We booked through a company called Be Borneo, but there were many tour operators to choose from (which all seem pretty similar). We had a staff of four onboard with us (a guide, a chef, a captain and a deckhand/wildlife spotter). Our tour guide, TeeTee, was awesome, but I would consider booking a boat with air conditioning if I had to do it all over again. The day light hours were spent relaxing to sounds of the jungle as we wound down the lazy Sekonyer River, into Tanjung Puting National Park. All our meals were prepared for us onboard and were abundant and delicious. We made the mistake of leaving a box of cookies out on the table one afternoon, which were never to be seen again, as a result of thieving monkeys. A couple of times a day, we would disembark for jungle walks and to observe orangutan feedings. The comedic apes swung effortlessly through the trees, like Tarzan, whilst consuming a mixture of sweet potatoes, mangos and sugar cane. Some of these primates were more generous than others with sharing their food. In Malay, orangutan means ‘man of the forest’. Albert, a particularly large male orangutan, verified the namesake when he walked directly at me, climbed a tree about three feet away (staring at me the whole time), made himself comfortable on a branch directly above me and then relieved his bladder. At night we played cards by candlelight, watched fireflies light up trees like twinkle lights, stargazed, doused ourselves in bug repellent and tried our best to sleep in the heat (on mats laid out on the deck of the boat, surrounded by mosquito netting). SURABAYA After three days of bug repellent build-up, sweating and not showering, we were pleased to arrive at the luxurious Shangri-La. We didn't do much, other than shower and bask in the joy of our newfound cleanliness. Komodo National Park is made up of 29 islands including Rinca, Padar and Komodo. It has been UNESCO protected since 1991. FLORES ISLAND The gateway to Komodo National Park is via Labuan Bajo, on Flores Island. It's often hidden in the shadows of its more famous neighbor, Bali, but is a lot more fascinating and charming. We stayed at the boutiquey and lovely Komodo Sudamala Resort, which I highly recommend. The 16-person speedboat excursion we went on, from Labuan Bajo, was my favorite! We saw so much and every stop was incredible. PADAR ISLAND This first stop on this daytrip was Padar, for an early morning hike up about 700 steps. There was no shade and it was sweaty work, but we were rewarded with spectacular views of what looked like Jurassic Park. It took about 30-minutes to climb and another 30 to descend. Next up was Pink Beach, on the north side of the island, reached by a short boat ride. The pink hue comes from tiny single-celled red organisms (foraminifera) that grow beneath the coral reefs. When these organisms die, they fall to the ocean floor and mix with bits of coral and crushed shell. The sand turns pink when this mixture washes onto the beach. KOMODO ISLAND Stop number three was the volcanic island that is home to the beastly and prehistoric Komodo dragons. They exist nowhere else in the world. We were lucky enough to see four adults and one baby. The babies are a particularly rare sight because as soon as they hatch, they climb up trees to avoid being eaten by their mother (savage, right?!). They don't usually come back until they are four years old and about four feet long. TAKA MAKASSAR ISLAND Also known as the ‘Maldives of Indonesia’, this island is smaller than a football field. The crescent-shaped sandbar is surrounded by shallow turquoise waters that look unreal! MANTA POINT This isn't technically an island, but, as the name implies, Manta Point is where manta rays can be spotted. It's a popular location to meet these gentle marine giants. KANAWA ISLAND Our final stop was the quiet and pristine Kanawa Beach. Its turquoise water was exceptionally calm and clear. Swimming and snorkeling are the most popular activities here. Indo has a bit of everything - beautiful beaches, deep seas, volcanoes, tropical rainforests, mountains, unique creatures, culture, good food, temples, world-class diving, friendly people and the most expensive coffee in the world (Google Kopi Luwak). What more could a tourist want?! I know that many people would feel short-changed going all the way to Indonesia and not visiting Bali, but please remember there is a lot more to this far-flung archipelago than just Bali. I recommend squeezing in as much variety and exoticism as possible. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Arrival: 96 nationalities may now enter Indonesia for up to 30-days, using a single entry Visa on Arrival (VoA). It can be attained at the airport and you can pay using cash or card, in various currencies. You will also need to complete an online customs form, which will generate a QR code that needs to be scanned before you can leave the airport. Getting Around: The Grab ride-hailing app can be used to get around Bali quick, cheap and easy. On other islands you'll need to arrange taxis through your hotel or just hail them the old-fashioned way. Driving: Indonesia drive on the left. There is a lot of traffic and motorbikes are everywhere. It is very chaotic on the roads, especially in Bali. You'll hear a lot of horn honking, but it's used more for safety and as a precaution, as opposed to aggressive rage. Electrical: EU on most islands (two round prongs), but I saw UK plugs (with three square prongs) in Surabaya. I'd recommend bringing both. Weather: There are typically two seasons - wet and dry - with warm tropical temperatures averaging 28°C during the day, throughout the year. In most regions, the dry season spans from May to September, with the rains falling between October and April. Tipping: Generally, this is not mandatory, but there is a government tax of 10% added to the bill in most restaurants and hotels. Since base salaries are low and service workers seek tips to provide extra income, it's best to tip if you're happy with your service. Drinking Water: Tap water isn't drinkable. You should always opt for bottled, filtered or boiled water, for drinking and brushing your teeth. Eating: I was surprised to learn that Indonesians do not eat with chopsticks. Instead they push food onto a spoon, using a fork. Food was mostly fried and could be very spicy. Mosquitos: Bring repellent and after bite care. Language: Indonesian is the official language of Indonesia, but there are 700-800 languages spoken in Indonesia according to the 2010 census. Most islands have their own language as well. Religion: The Indonesian government recognizes six religions: Islam, Protestantism, Catholicism, Hinduism, Buddhism and Confucianism. Bali was predominantly Hindu, Flores is mostly Catholic, but most other islands I visited were Muslim. Currency: The Indonesian Rupiah. Notes come in 1000, 2000, 5000, 10.000, 20.000, 50.000 and 100.000. You will need cash more than you think (there are admission fees, donations and lots of small tips). ATMs limit how much you can withdraw, so get cash whenever you have an opportunity. #indonesia #bali #ubud #nusadua #nusapenida #borneo #pangkalanbun #surabaya #java #komodonationalpark #floresisland #padarisland #komodoisland #takamakassarisland #mantapoint #kanawaisland #kelingkingbeach #brokenbeach #pasihuugbeach #angelsbillabong #tanjungputingnationalpark #orangutan #asia #southeastasia #monkey #primate #temple #ricefield #ricepaddy #riceterrace #waterfall #swing #lotuspond




















