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Berlin was vibrant during the Golden Twenties. The city was the third largest municipality in the world and revered for its leadership in science, music, film, education, government, diplomacy, the humanities and military affairs. However, all world leadership roles were lost when the city was virtually demolished and split in two by the Second World War. On 9th November 1989, East and West Germany were reunited and Berlin gradually returned from a walled city back to a world city. When I visited Berlin, it was just two weeks shy of the 30-year anniversary of the fall of the 96-mile-long wall. This was a particularly significant milestone because the wall had now been down longer than the 28-years it ever stood. Having spent only a weekend, I barely scratched the surface of what Berlin has to offer, but below is a short list of what I considered to be the highlights. *HOTEL ZOO - I stayed at this swanky hotel in City West. Don't be alarmed to feel like a celebrity when you get in the lift though. After you press the floor button and the doors shut, there will be a quick series of flashes from the paparazzi images on the elevator walls. *THE REICHSTAG - This is the home to the German Government and the meeting place of the German Parliament. This building was damaged in the historic fire, back in 1933, but then restored and resurrected, post Berlin Wall, making it an emblem of a unified Germany. This was also the venue for the official German Reunification ceremony in 1990. *BRANDENBURG GATE - From the Reichstag, cut through the corner of the Tiergarten and walk about five minutes to the next obligatory spot on your Berlin tour. The 18-century Brandenburg Gate serves as the icon of Berlin and also a symbol of reunification and peace. Unfortunately, when I went, it was gated off, in preparation for 30th anniversary events. *HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL (AKA Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe) - Just 600 meters from Brandenburg Gate you'll find this place of remembrance and warning. This memorial site was created to make you feel uneasy. It's comprised of 2,711 concrete blocks of varying heights, arranged in a grid pattern, on an undulating ground. *CHECKPOINT CHARLIE - The name comes from the NATO phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie), as Checkpoint Charlie was the third border crossing set up in Berlin. This was the most famous crossing between East and West Germany, during the Cold War. Here everyone, from diplomats to tourists had to pass through to get into Berlin's Soviet sector. A remnant of the Berlin Wall, which divided Berlin from 13th August 1961 until 9th November 1989, still stands here. *BERLINER DOM OR BERLIN CATHEDRAL - Although not strictly a cathedral (as it has never been the seat for a bishop), this church, on Museum island, is one of the main landmarks in Berlin's cityscape and great example of baroque architecture. *FERNSEHTURM - Berlin's TV Tower is the tallest structure in Germany. It contains an observation deck, a bar and a rotating restaurant. We had intentions of visiting but there was a two-hour wait, so decided to give it a miss. I suggest reserving a spot online, in advance, if you are keen to go up. *AMPELMANNCHEN - This little traffic light man is the symbol shown on pedestrian crossing signals all over Berlin and is arguably one of Berlin’s most recognizable symbols. Prior to reunification, the two German states had different traffic symbols - a generic human figure in West Germany, and a male figure wearing a hat in the East. After reunification, Germany tried to rid itself of all things from the East, pedestrian signals included. Outrage ensued and a group successfully lobby the government for preservation. Since then this little man is on traffic lights across West Berlin and has acquired a bit of a cult status. *MONKEYS - I didn't go to the Berlin Zoo itself, but I did go to Monkey Bar at the top of the 25hours Hotel, which overlooks the monkey enclosure within the zoo. Monkey Bar was too busy on Friday night to get in, but we managed to get a great window seat on Sunday afternoon. *KATZ ORANGE - I would never have just stumbled upon this place as it was located in a courtyard, set back from the street. It was recommended to me by a friend and I booked in advance. Highly recommended. The place was cozy and beautiful, the food was wonderful and hearty and the service was top-notch. Berlin is a fun-loving, scruffy, gritty, hip, eclectic and socially-conscious metropolis and definitely worth a visit!

In Greek mythology, the Phoenix died in a show of flames and combustion before its rebirth, rising from ashes to start anew. 'The Phoenix City', Warsaw's fitting moniker, emerged from its resurrection and transformation following WWII decimation and Communist oppression. In 1944, the anti-Nazi uprising infuriated German leaders. To punish the city, Hitler ordered that the Polish capital be flattened by fire and dynamite. More than 85% of the city's historic center was reduced to rubble. This past Saturday's free walking tour taught me that Warsaw's 'Old' Town was rebuilt post-war, largely based on 18th century paintings, so meticulously that UNESCO added it on the World Heritage List, in 1980. I also learned that the people of Poland love Christmas so much that festive decor and lights are put up in November and kept up through early February. Within the Old Town, located at 20-22 Kanonia Street, was one of the narrowest houses in Warsaw, constructed as a strategy for avoiding property taxes. The 17-century tax system was based on the width of a home's front-facing facade and the number of windows it had. Although the house got a lot wider in the back (pictured below), the clever construction of this property in the front would have saved its original owners a lot of złoty. Outside the Old Town, Warsaw's architecture varied widely, reflecting the city's long, turbulent history. There were Gothic churches, Renaissance-style historical landmarks, neoclassical palaces as well as Soviet-era blocks and modern skyscrapers. The Palace of Culture and Science (shown below) was a 'gift' from Stalin to symbolize how strategically important Poland was to Moscow. It stands taller than any other building in Poland and remains a divisive and controversial building, serving as constant reminder of the Soviet occupation. Despite being freezing cold, I had a wander through Warsaw's largest park, Łazienki Park, which occupies 76 hectares of the City Center. I was told that peacocks made this park their home, but they seemed to be hiding when I was there. To stay warm, I spent quite a bit of time indulging in Warsaw's eclectic international cuisine offerings. Below are my recommendations for meals and drinks: U TATO - Hearty Georgian cuisine at a fair price. Hala Koszyki - A hip food court. The tapas at Sobremesa were delicious. Taverna Patris - Traditional Greek food, in an unpretentious converted house. Hala Gwardii - Food market in an industrial building formerly used for boxing matches. I had the pierogis. Superiore Wine Bar: A hybrid wine shop, restaurant and bar. Panorama Sky Bar - Cocktails and city views from a swanky lounge on the 40th Floor of the Marriott. Prosta Historia - The food looked great, but I only had drinks. Momu: Nice atmosphere and helpful, English-speaking staff. Warsaw has come a long way since the systematic destruction of its city and Soviet occupation. This Phoenix City serves as an inspiring example of indestructibility. If you're looking for a modern city with an Old Town as colorful as its past, interesting architecture, peacocks, and an increasing number of shiny new skyscrapers, restaurants, designer shops and bars, then Warsaw might be the destination you're after.

For many, the association with Rwanda is still the horrific genocide of 1994, a 100-day mass slaughter in which Hutu extremists killed an estimated 800,000 people, mostly Tutsis. The scars of that tragedy remain deeply etched into the country's society, yet Rwanda has found a way to rebuild, unify, develop and move forward. The resilience of its people, and their efforts to forge a shared future in the decades since, is nothing short of remarkable. Beyond its painful history, however, lies a country of extraordinary beauty, warmth and wonder. Known as the land of a thousand hills and a million smiles, Rwanda is a place of rolling mountains and welcoming people who leave you with memories that last long after the holiday ends. Slightly larger than half of the Netherlands, Rwanda's compact size, relatively well-developed infrastructure and extraordinary mix of volcanoes, jungles, lakes and wildlife make it an ideal country for a road trip. I designed the journey, booked all the accommodations and then scoured Reddit and TripAdvisor reviews until I found a company to provide a driver and help arrange the necessary permits. Edison, director, founder and owner of Bamboo Ecotours, was incredibly helpful during the planning stages. I specifically requested Herbert as our driver, and I'm so glad I did! He was knowledgeable, friendly, professional, punctual and spoke excellent English. He also sneakily coordinated things behind the scenes, often without us realizing it - from sorting out logistics and anticipating when we might be hungry to altering our stops ahead of time and making sure everything ran smoothly. We always felt we were in capable hands. If you're planning a similar trip, I'd definitely recommend reaching out to this team. And if Herbert is available, request him! With the logistics sorted, the route mapped out and Herbert at the wheel, my parents and I were ready to discover Rwanda one bumpy road at a time. From monkey encounters, seasickness-inducing boat rides and game drives across the savannah, the next two weeks promised a little bit of everything. The journey began and ended in Kigali, with stops at Nyungwe National Park, Lake Kivu, Volcanoes National Park, Lake Ruhondo and Akagera National Park. Quick Links Kigali Nyungwe National Park Lake Kivu Volcanoes National Park Lake Ruhondo Akagera National Park Know Before You Go KIGALI Kigali International Airport is Rwanda's primary international gateway, located approximately seven miles from the capital. Chances are that this is where your Rwandan adventure will begin and end too. Getting There: I took RwandAir because it was the only airline offering direct flights to and from London at the time of my trip. My experience wasn't particularly positive, so if you have the option of flying with another carrier, I'd recommend doing your research before booking. The fact that I had four seats to myself because the entire plane was nearly empty was probably telling. On the plus side, I had plenty of room to stretch out! First Impressions: Kigali was safe, clean and remarkably free of litter, although the city was undergoing plenty of construction during our visit, which meant it was also incredibly dusty. And hilly. Very hilly. I quickly realized where Rwanda earned the first part of its nickname. The city was also chock-full of motorbikes, and getting around meant battling one traffic jam after another. Accommodations: We stayed at The Nest Hotel on the frontend and Home Free Hotel by Signature for one night at the end of the trip. Neither would be at the top of my recommendation list, although both had their positives. The Nest was a cute property with plenty of charm, but we experienced regular power outages, and the locks on at least two of the rooms were faulty. One unexpected perk? My mom and I each received a complimentary 30-minute massage from a blind masseuse! Our second hotel was, frankly, pretty crappy. However, its location in Kimihurura, an upscale neighborhood in Kigali's Gasabo District, was worth noting. If you're looking for somewhere to stay in the city, I'd suggest exploring this area. Things to Do: The Kigali Genocide Memorial: Although harrowing and difficult, this place of remembrance was incredibly well done and was an absolute must-see. It was a sobering and powerful experience that provided important context for understanding Rwanda's history while promoting reconciliation and peace through education. There was no official entrance fee, but donations were expected (to be paid by cash or credit card). Audio tours were also available for an additional cost. Photos were not allowed inside. Presidential Palace (AKA Rwanda Art Museum): You can probably skip this one. Our taxi driver didn't even know where it was, which should have been our first clue! Entrance was $10 per person, and the most interesting part for us was the remnants of the plane crash in the backyard. On 6th April 1994, a plane carrying Rwandan President Juvénal Habyarimana was shot down as it prepared to land in Kigali, which was a trigger for the genocide. Places to Dine: Five to Five Restaurant: A good option for lunch. Biryogo Car Free Food Street: A lively food street in a predominantly Muslim area, so alcohol and pork weren't served. Bring cash, as many vendors don't accept cards. Be prepared for some enthusiastic attention from vendors, particularly if you're visibly a tourist. Lilly Fine Dining: Located on the top floor of one of the tallest buildings in Kigali's Kimihurura neighborhood, the restaurant offered views across the city. The food was yummy, and the decor featured local artists showcasing Rwandan culture and creativity. Fire & Stone Pizza Company: A pizza spot with a cute courtyard that worked well for lunch. NYUNGWE NATIONAL PARK After a weekend in Kigali - and a year's worth of planning - we finally met Herbert! He picked us up on Monday morning, loaded the Land Cruiser with all our belongings (thankfully, we were traveling light - eye roll) and got our road trip underway. We hit some serious Monday-morning traffic as we made our way out of Kigali and headed toward Nyungwe (pronounced new-wooong-way). It was rush hour, but it was also the first day back at school after the summer break, so the roads were especially chaotic. It took us about five hours to reach Nyungwe in southwestern Rwanda, with the scenery changing quite dramatically along the way. We lunched in the park, where a cheeky L’Hoest’s mountain monkey helped itself to our leftover French fries, before we ventured onto the famous canopy bridges suspended high above the rainforest. Canopy Walk: I had imagined a leisurely stroll through the forest. Instead, we embarked on a roughly two-and-a-half-hour hike involving considerably more uphill and downhill walking than I had anticipated. Apparently canopy walk is a more attractive way of saying jungle hike with suspension bridges. We hired a porter to carry our bags and my mom ($10 plus tip) and set off along the Igishigishigi Trail (say that ten times fast - or even once). We crossed three canopy bridges before taking the Umuyove Trail back, where Herbert was waiting to collect us. The bridges were impressively high, and my dad, naturally, decided that the appropriate response was to jump up and down on them to make the rest of us bounce. And people wonder where I get my mischievousness from. Accommodation: Nyungwe Top View Hill Hotel was a 35-minute drive from the end of the canopy excursion, but it was already dark by the time we arrived. The website promised panoramic views of the surrounding forest, tea plantations and distant volcanoes, but all we got was darkness and stars, which, to be fair, was still pretty magical. We were up at 3:15am the following morning for our chimpanzee adventure, when it was still very much nighttime. Thankfully the hotel catered to chimp trekkers and allowed us to pre-order breakfast to eat at any time between 4 and 9am. They also packed lunches for us to take along. We left the hotel at 5am (still dark) for the hour-and-a-half drive to Cyamudongo Forest, a 19-square-kilometer forest that is separate from, but technically part of, Nyungwe National Park. Chimpanzee Trekking: The trek began with a briefing, during which we were told there was approximately a 50% chance of finding the chimpanzees. We were given walking sticks and the option to hire a porter, which we promptly took. Our porter, Red, cost $10 plus a substantial tip that was worth every penny. At 6:45am, we began our trek, hoping to spot the chimps in one of Africa's oldest mountain forests. The trail was dry, initially offering a manageable mix of gentle ups and downs. As we got closer to the chimpanzees, however, the terrain became considerably steeper, and the dry leaves made certain sections slippery. Fortunately, Red was there to steady and support us when needed. Exactly one hour into the hike, we were close. We paused and waited for instructions from the trackers, anticipation building as we prepared to meet our elusive neighbors. Success! We ended up seeing between 12 and 14 chimps, including one baby and two juveniles. Most were busy grooming one another, accompanied by funny clicking noises that made it sound as though they were having an animated conversation in Zulu. As the hour progressed, the chimpanzees became increasingly playful, giving us even more of a show. After a little more than an hour (shhh, we may have stretched our allotted viewing time slightly), we began the one-hour trek back, mostly uphill. We then climbed into the vehicle for another two-and-a-half-hour drive to Kibuye, on Lake Kivu, where a boat ride awaited us. We ate our packed lunches in the vehicle along the way, because this was the day of eating wherever we could squeeze it in. LAKE KIVU Our first introduction to beautiful Lake Kivu was a calm two-and-a-half-hour boat ride from Kibuye, located on the eastern shore roughly midway up the lake. We were the only people out on the water, which made the experience wonderfully peaceful and remote. We saw swimming cows, colorful birds, a whole slew of bats and a vervet monkey even jumped aboard to say hello. Accommodation: After another two hours of driving north, we finally arrived at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel in Gisenyi, after what felt like the longest day of our lives. The hotel itself was lovely, but, once again, we experienced nightly power outages. And then there was the mosquito that terrorized me for two nights, sucking my blood like a tiny vampire while apparently leaving everyone else alone. Rude. We spent three nights here and mainly used the downtime to relax and enjoy the hotel, including an hour-long massage that cost just $40. Gisenyi Boat Rides & The DRC: We did a few boat-related activities, but nothing too strenuous. Well, actually, I lie. The northern end of the lake was far windier and bumpier than in Kibuye. It looked more like the sea than a lake and it did end up being strenuous. Our first trip out took three guys to battle the waves and get the speedboat into the water. It then took another three men to gas it up, replace the flooded battery and unsuccessfully attempt to keep the inside of the boat dry. The waves were relentless. Getting in the bobbing boat was a whole other adventure, particularly with my parents' old joints. Once we were finally aboard, the waves just kept coming. We were bashed around, soaked through and wondering if we'd capsize. We did, however, get about as close as you could possibly get to the Democratic Republic of Congo, without actually crossing the border. Later that day, we visited the border by land, which was very much open despite what we had been led to believe from international news coverage. The following day, we took another boat ride, this time on an old wooden vessel to the Nyamyumba volcanic hot springs. It was another seasickness-inducing one-hour boat ride, because apparently, we hadn't suffered enough the day before. Entrance to the springs cost 10,000 RWF each (~$7), and the experience was about as authentic as it gets. There were no other tourists in sight, just us and the locals. We stayed for about 45 minutes before heading back to our hotel. VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK It was a two-hour drive from Lake Kivu to the Volcanoes National Park area, which has the most developed tourism infrastructure in Rwanda. This is, by far, the main event, where you'll hike through the bamboo forests to meet mountain gorillas and trek to see the golden monkeys. Museums & Cultural Experiences: Our first stop was The Ellen DeGeneres Campus for a crash course in gorilla fun facts, a cool 360° video and a surprisingly lifelike VR experience. A $25-per-person "donation" was suggested - but seemed pretty mandatory - but it was worth it. We spent about an hour and a half there. We then drove about five minutes to Gorilla Guardians Village, also known as the Iby'Iwacu Cultural Village, a community-run cultural tourism attraction in Kinigi, Musanze District. We were greeted by an energetic, and slightly terrifying, welcome performance, which Herbert had secretly arranged for us. We made fire, practiced archery, milled sorghum seeds and learned how remedies were crafted from indigenous plants and grasses. We were also taught how to make banana beer and got an introduction to traditional medicine before the real fun began. We explored a replica of an ancient Rwandan king's palace and took part in a mock wedding where we were dressed as king, queen and princess. With her head covered by a traditional cloth, my mom was lifted onto a wooden bridal litter and carried off by local villagers - lord knows where they all appeared from. She was brought to the hut where my dad was waiting. The ceremony really came alive with a symbolic procession of gifts, traditional drumming and celebratory singing and dancing. The final stop was considerably less traditional, when they accepted credit cards for the $35-per-person "contribution" that had become rather less optional. Still, it was worth the money for the hour and a half of throwing my parents headfirst into the culture. Accommodation: The hotel we chose, Kinigi Cottage, was one of my favorites of the trip. It was a cozy, highly-rated country house with only four rooms and a resident pet cat. The food was excellent and served family-style, and luckily we had some interesting fellow guests to get to know. We actually ran into some of them at various other tourist destinations throughout the rest of the trip. The location was also incredibly convenient, just about 10 minutes from the museums and the morning briefings for the various monkey activities. Trekking: The gorillas are undoubtedly the star attraction, so I dedicated an entire blog post to the experience. You can find more detailed information about gorilla trekking here. Golden monkey trekking starts in a similar fashion. You'll be collected from your lodge early in the morning and driven past the location of the annual gorilla naming ceremony to the Kinigi park headquarters. There, you'll go through security, have your permits checked, enjoy a hot beverage, use the facilities and, at 7am, be split into groups of up to 19 and assigned a guide and a monkey troop. Fidele was our guide, and we were assigned the Kabatwa Group - the first golden monkey troop ever monitored and studied in Rwanda. The group numbered between 80 and 100 members and is typically tracked around the foothills of Mount Sabyinyo. Because golden monkeys spend most of their time in the bamboo zone at the base of the volcanoes, the hike is generally less strenuous than gorilla trekking. Trackers locate them by looking for discarded bamboo shoots and leaves, among other signs. Following the briefing, we drove about 35-minutes, picked up our walking sticks and hired our porter, Patrick. At 8:25am, we began what was supposed to be an easy 10-minute walk through farmland to the wall surrounding Volcanoes National Park. We then climbed the stairs over the wall and entered the park. The actual trek inside the park took about six minutes. We were instructed to leave our bags and walking sticks in a pile and put on face masks in preparation for meeting the golden monkeys. The trackers, however, appeared to be having an off morning. We waited for about 40 minutes, but there were no monkeys in sight. Eventually, we gathered our belongings and continued trekking. When we finally found them, the monkeys were a little shy, hiding in the trees and darting around at impressive speed. We had exactly one hour to observe these ridiculously cute creatures, complete with their adorably fat cheeks, as they jumped through the trees and moved around the bamboo. The whole experience wrapped up around 10:45am, and we were back at the Land Cruiser by 11:15. With all our luggage already packed in the vehicle, we left Volcanoes National Park behind and began the short journey to Lake Ruhondo. LAKE RUHONDO Lake Ruhondo, one of two twin volcanic lakes near Musanze, was peaceful and surrounded by mountains, but if I were recreating this trip, I’d admire it from afar and give it a miss entirely. Accommodation & Food: I was completely unaware that we'd be arriving at our hotel by water taxi until Herbert dropped us, and all our luggage, off at the Ruhondo Boating Pier. Seven minutes later, we pulled up at Ruhondo Beach Resort. The hotel was tucked above the lake, with sweeping views of Mount Muhabura. Unfortunately, that was where the good news ended. The hotel itself was very basic. Like, summer overnight camp but with fewer comforts. Dinner didn't exactly redeem the experience. They had only about half the items listed on the menu, and the description for the Beef Burger was, rather confusingly, a "crispy fried chicken leg." There was a limited beer selection and exactly one glass of wine left. And despite being the only patrons in the restaurant, our food took an hour and 15 minutes to arrive. Meanwhile, right next door was Meza Malonga, probably the fanciest restaurant in all of Rwanda. Open only Thursday through Sunday from 11am to 5pm, reservations were required at least a month in advance, with a 100% deposit needed to secure your table. The eight-course tasting menu took four hours and cost $245 per person. The internet still seems to think the restaurant is in Kigali, although it definitely moved to Lake Ruhondo. There were only 26 TripAdvisor reviews when I visited, so I have absolutely no idea how this place managed to stay in business. But after our dinner at the resort, we would have happily traded our chicken-leg-that-was-supposed-to-be-a-burger for eight courses of pretty much anything. Boat: We had pre-arranged a boat ride with the hotel from 3 to 4pm. Thankfully, this one delivered exactly what you want from a lake excursion. It was slow, calm and serene, with none of the drama we'd experienced on Lake Kivu. The scenery was beautiful, with the volcanic mountains rising around us, and for an hour we simply enjoyed being out on the water. Then, just as we were finishing up, thunder and lightning rolled in, providing a suitably theatrical finale to our brief Lake Ruhondo experience. AKAGERA We ate a quick breakfast, hopped on the water taxi and hit the road at 8:20am. We couldn't get out of Ruhondo Beach Resort fast enough. After a checkpoint, a stop for roasted potatoes, one pee break and a minor traffic incident, we finally made it to Akagera at 4:05pm. Accommodation: Ihema Lodges was wonderful! The property had only five cabins, all spacious, elegant and comfortable, with large windows opening onto terraces overlooking Lake Ihema. There was no air conditioning, despite it being hotter than in other parts of Rwanda, but the fan provided did the trick. After our experience the previous night, at Lake Ruhondo, we were more than happy! Safari - Day 1: We organized all our safari drives through Emmanuel Twizeyimana (+250 782 035 258), who came recommended by the hotel. Emmanuel was something of a local celebrity and philanthropist in the Akagera area. He was a former professor turned independent tour provider and driver-guide, offering safari experiences, transfers and events. He also owned a local restaurant and cultural center and founded an NGO called Nyankora Kids. Unfortunately, Emmanuel had to attend a conference with the German embassy on climate change and agriculture, so he sent two lovely people in his place: Joseph, our driver, and Aime, a guide in training. We awoke at 5:30am, ate breakfast at 6am and began our day at 6:40am. It took 15 minutes to reach the south entrance at Akagera National Park, followed by another three kilometers to reception. Here, we paid our park entrance fees: $450 for three people for two days, $240 for two night safaris for three people and $105 for the boat safari for three people. The park was entirely cashless, so credit cards were accepted. Ihema Lodges had kindly provided us with a letter confirming that we were staying for more than one night, which entitled us to a $50-per-person discount on the park entrance fee (which came to $450 instead of $600). Definitely worth asking your accommodation about! The hunt for the "Big Five" began at 7:30am. The roads were dusty dirt tracks, and the southern end of the park was particularly dry. As Akagera is a protected national park, off-roading wasn't allowed, so we had to stick to the designated routes. Our first encounter was a shy bushbuck, and we were told it was lucky that it hadn't immediately run away. We took this as an omen of good things to come. We saw plenty of antelope, including roan, waterbuck, topi and impala. Aime joked that the distinctive M-shaped markings on the impalas' behinds were basically a McDonald's sign for lions. Nature's very own fast-food branding. Of the Big Five, we spotted African buffalo, elephants and white rhinos. There were also a few giraffes and zebras knocking about, although they mostly kept themselves hidden. We stopped for lunch from noon until 1pm before heading out for our boat safari on Lake Ihema from 3-4pm. The boat safari was the highlight of our 12.5-hour day! It was windy and bumpy, but absolutely fantastic. We expected to see hippos and Nile crocodiles in the water, but spotting them on land was an unexpected bonus. We also saw elephants and rhinos, which was a very lucky surprise that made the whole excursion even more special. Our night safari was operated by park rangers rather than our private guides and ran from approximately 5:30 to 8pm. We spotted plenty of nocturnal hares, along with a white-tailed mongoose and a genet, but that was about it. It was also far too dark to photograph them properly, so you'll just have to take my word for it. Despite the relatively limited sightings, being out in the park after dark was incredibly peaceful. The sky was enormous and filled with bright stars, with virtually no light pollution apart from the occasional firefly. Crickets and birds provided the soundtrack. Joseph collected us afterward and drove us back to the lodge, where we ordered dinner and were tucked up in bed by 10pm, ready to do it all again the following morning. Safari - Day 2: For the first time on the entire trip, we made it through a night without losing power. Luxury! We slept well, ate an early breakfast and were ready for our 6:35am pickup. It had rained overnight, which made the roads considerably less dusty. Today's adventure took us to the northern part of the park, where the landscape was more mountainous and lush. We were also incredibly lucky with our sightings, as the animals seemed determined to put on a show right beside our vehicle. It was a day of sibling rivalry. First up were two buffalo brothers having a disagreement. And then things escalated to a brother-and-sister lion battle. Apparently, family drama isn't exclusive to humans. It was also a day of mommas and babies. We saw white rhinos, zebras, hippos, lions, buffalo and baboons with their young, which was a lovely reminder that there's more to a safari than the Big Five. We also spotted some other fascinating creatures, including a feathery owl, a monitor lizard (a relative of the Komodo dragon) and a lone warthog. After buying lunch in the park, Joseph dropped us back at the lodge for an hour or so of rest before our final night drive. En route to the evening safari, Joseph pulled over at the side of the road, where a local woman appeared with a card machine. We paid Emmanuel $650 for his services: $280 per day for two days of game drives and $90 for the transfer to Kigali the following morning. The only particularly noteworthy sighting on our final night drive was a bushbaby, which was a tiny primate with enormous eyes that hopped around like a miniature kangaroo. It was a ridiculously cute and fitting little finale to our Rwandan safari adventures. The following morning, we faced a three-hour drive back to Kigali, where we spent one final night and another full day before the adventure came to an end. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: GETTING AROUND & LOGISTICS Tour Operator: Bamboo Ecotours was our choice for the driver and help arranging permits. Edison was incredibly helpful during the planning process, and Herbert was a fantastic driver throughout the trip. Edison (initial planning): mailto: info@bambooecotours.com | +256 779 499670 Herbert (driver): +256 702 408300 Ride Sharing in Kigali: I found Yego to be pretty terrible. I'd recommend trying the Move by Volkswagen app instead. Make sure you select a car rather than a moto, and choose your preferred payment method when booking. Kigali Traffic: Kigali traffic can be brutal. On a Friday at 6:30pm, my journey to the airport took 45 minutes to cover approximately 4.7 miles. My parents made the same journey in just 11 minutes at 7am. Timing really is everything, so give yourself enough of it. Road Conditions & Driving Culture: Expect a mixture of paved roads, gravel tracks, dirt roads and cobbled streets. The bumpier stretches provide what Herbert endearingly called free African massage. Outside Kigali, and sometimes within the city itself, daily life remains very traditional, and the roads are shared with pedestrians. People walk everywhere, at all hours, often carrying surprisingly large loads on their heads or transporting goods on bicycles. Cars, trucks, motorbikes, carts and animals all share the space, and somehow everyone seems to coexist remarkably well, with surprisingly little honking. Still, don't let the apparent harmony fool you: stay alert and drive cautiously, because you're rarely alone on the road! Mobile Payments and Cash: Mobile money (MoMo Pay) was widely used by locals, including in remote areas, but don't assume you'll be able to pay for everything with a card. We needed cash for some taxis, lots of tips, porters, trackers, hot springs and boat trips, as well as at smaller food markets. Ask locally about the best payment options, and carry some Rwandan francs and/or US dollars. Currency: Whenever possible, ask for prices in both Rwandan francs and US dollars. We encountered places that quoted or accepted both, and US dollars were useful for tips. Plugs: Rwanda generally uses European-style plugs, but almost every hotel we stayed at accommodated UK, European and US plugs in some form. One hotel had only UK-style sockets. I'd still pack a universal adapter rather than rely on luck. MOBILE SERVICE I had full bars on my phone but couldn't get anything to work on my regular service so I downloaded an eSIM through HolaFly, which worked great. It cost £98 for 14 days (~£7/day). You can use code H4YAIDAYM1UP for 10% off, subject to the provider's current terms. LOCAL CUSTOMS & CULTURE Umuganda: Rwanda holds a nationwide community-service day on the last Saturday of each month, generally from 8-11am. Participation requirements and exemptions can vary. It's one of the initiatives associated with Rwanda's emphasis on community participation and public cleanliness. Greetings and Manners: We found Rwandans to be generally soft-spoken. Before meals, it was common for staff to bring hot towels or a bucket of water for washing our hands. Tipping: We generally tipped around 5–10% at restaurants, or rounded up the bill. For guides, drivers and porters, ask about customary amounts and budget accordingly. Timekeeping: Things don't always run to the minute, so build a little flexibility into your itinerary. On the other hand, Herbert was consistently punctual, which we greatly appreciated. Language: Many people we encountered spoke at least some English, and English-language signs were common. Accents varied, so occasionally we had to listen carefully. The Smiles: People could look quite serious or tough from a distance, but a wave often elicited the biggest, whitest smile. It was one of my favorite little details of the trip. Muzungu! We attracted a lot of attention. Outside hotels and tourist destinations, we saw relatively few other white visitors, and children and adults alike sometimes called out “Muzungu!” (a term commonly used in the region for a foreigner, often someone perceived as white). Family Titles: Our guides regularly referred to my parents as “Mommy” and “Daddy,” which was rather endearing. Women at Work: We saw women working across a wide range of roles, including as police officers, construction workers, porters, guides and street cleaners. Many wore skirts or dresses while working, which I found particularly striking. SAFETY, HEALTH & REGULATIONS Safety: We generally felt safe throughout our trip, both when exploring Kigali and traveling between destinations. As anywhere, it's worth staying aware of your surroundings, taking sensible precautions and following local guidance. We also felt reassured on the water, where life jackets were required on all our boat excursions. Malaria Prevention: I took doxycycline after seeking advice from a travel clinic. I started the course two days before departure, took it daily during the trip and continued for four weeks afterward, as directed. I experienced vivid dreams and poor sleep, although I also received quite a few mosquito bites. Antimalarial medication isn't one-size-fits-all, so speak to a travel-health professional well before departure about the right precautions for your itinerary. Camouflage and Single-Use Plastics: I came across online claims that both camouflage clothing and single-use plastics were prohibited in Rwanda. During our trip, I saw people wearing camouflage and plastic water bottles being provided in many places. Akagera appeared to have restrictions on single-use plastics, although enforcement seemed inconsistent. Check current regulations before packing, especially for national parks. WEATHER & PACKING Temperatures: We experienced temperatures of approximately 65–87°F during our trip, although conditions varied considerably by location and altitude. Kigali, the rainforest, the volcanic highlands and Akagera felt like very different climates, so pack layers. Dust: Game drives and some of the dirt roads were extremely dusty, particularly in dry weather. Sunglasses and something to cover your nose and mouth may come in handy. Rain: Weather can change quickly, especially around the lakes and mountains. Bring a lightweight waterproof layer, even if the forecast looks promising. KIGALI AIRPORT INFO There was a vehicle and body-security checkpoint just before the airport entrance. I was instructed to leave my bags in the car, go through a metal detector, show my boarding pass and sanitize my hands before I could enter the terminal. Inside the airport, signs for the boarding gates weren't always easy to find. The escalators appeared to operate on sensors, but they did work! Passport control came before security, and both were surprisingly quiet when we passed through. I was also the only person in the airport lounge when I first arrived.

I’ve sipped champagne aboard the Orient Express, floated over Cappadocia in a hot air balloon and enjoyed more than my fair share of luxury travel experiences. But every now and then, a bucket-list adventure comes along that leaves you sweaty, dirty, shivering on a mountainside and yet somehow still blown away. Gorilla trekking in Rwanda was one of those. For years, I dreamed of venturing into the misty mountains of Volcanoes National Park in search of mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. I’d imagined walking through the forest, the air thick with anticipation, before coming face-to-face with one of the world’s most extraordinary creatures. What I hadn’t pictured was the amount of effort it would require getting there. For my dad and me, the day began with a 5am alarm that felt slightly offensive. By 6am, we were tucking into a hearty breakfast at Kinigi Cottage before our driver arrived promptly at 6:30am. The journey to Kinigi Park Headquarters took just 10 minutes. There, we went through security, had our permits validated and used the facilities before the briefing began. There was a little extra buzz in the air, as Rwanda’s Prime Minister, Dr. Justin Nsengiyumva, was also visiting the gorillas that day, accompanied by his own group and a bodyguard. Around 7am, we were divided into groups of eight, supposedly based on fitness levels and hiking ability. Despite my 75-year-old dad requesting an "easier" trek, we knew we were in trouble when the other six members of our group turned out to be German. We were introduced to our ranger, Ignace, and assigned to the Pablo gorillas. The family is named after Pablo, an orphaned infant gorilla who famously climbed on and interacted with Sir David Attenborough during the filming of Life on Earth in 1979 (episode 12). The family’s more recent story is explored in the Netflix documentary A Gorilla Story: Told by David Attenborough, which premiered in April 2026. Known for roaming the higher slopes of Mount Karisimbi, the Pablo family consisted of around 25 gorillas at the time of our visit. Group allocations wrapped up around 8am, at which point we climbed back into the vehicle for a 40-minute, bumpy drive to a village that appeared to be in the middle of nowhere. We were given walking sticks and the option of hiring a porter. The porter cost $10 (plus tip) and was worth every cent. Not only did the money provide financial support to local community members living near the park, but our porter was also incredibly useful throughout the trek. He carried my dad's heavy backpack and helped us both navigate steep terrain, pushing or pulling us when needed. At 8:50am, after our guide made contact with the trackers, we began walking through the surrounding farmland in the direction of the park entrance. It was uphill from the very beginning. The path was littered with loose stones and boulders, and the thin air at altitude made breathing difficult. The Germans, naturally, had no issues. After around an hour, we reached the perimeter of Volcanoes National Park. Getting inside involved scaling a rock wall, which was a fairly effective reminder that part two of the trek was not going to be a leisurely stroll through the woods. Once inside the jungle, we spent another 30 minutes fighting our way through dense vegetation. Thick bushes, sharp brambles, slippery undergrowth and tangled vines seemed determined to make our progress as complicated as possible. There was no clearly defined trail, so Ignace used a machete to hack a rough path. The exertion was real. The terrain was unforgiving. We were sweating. And the thicket and tangles had a personal vendetta against keeping our shoelaces tied. Every step required concentration, and there was no shortage of obstacles to navigate. Eventually, we met up with the trackers and were instructed to leave our walking sticks behind, as they could potentially frighten the apes. We also left our bags nearby in case they contained food. Face masks were handed out to help prevent the transmission of illnesses between humans and gorillas. The final stretch was a mix of anticipation, exhaustion and trying not to get caught on every thorn in our path. At 10:22am, we found the gorillas. Once we were standing in the presence of the Pablo family, all of the effort it had taken to get there was instantly forgotten. We had exactly one hour to observe the gorillas, during which I counted 14 members of the family (inclusive of two juveniles and two silverbacks). There was something both humbling and hilarious about watching the gorillas go about their daily lives. They burped, sneezed, passed gas, snored, played and even smiled. Despite their extraordinary size and strength, it was easy to spot the similarities between us. Afterall, humans and gorillas do share approximately 98.3% of their genetic makeup. The silverbacks were mesmerising, the juveniles were playful and curious, while the rest of the adults mostly just slept in a pile. The gorillas occasionally acknowledged our presence with a brief moment of eye contact, before returning to whatever was occupying their attention. Of course, no wildlife encounter would be complete without a little drama. Just as our hour was coming to an end, two female gorillas suddenly charged toward us. The trackers immediately ushered us humans back a few feet and began making low grunting noises to communicate that we were friends, not a threat. It was a momentarily terrifying and a stark reminder that, however magical the experience was, these were still wild animals, and we were in their home. The temperature was around 65°F, which might not sound particularly chilly, but after the excertion of getting up the mountain, trying to stand as still as possible for an hour and the adrenaline rush from the lunging gorillas, I was shivering by the time our visit came to an end. Part of me didn’t want to say goodbye, but the other half was ready to get moving again. At 11:30am, we began making our way out of the park, but the jungle wasn’t quite ready to let us go. It took 15 minutes of battling our way through it. We ducked beneath low-hanging branches, pushed through walls of thicket and picked our way over the uneven ground. Vines caught our ankles, while thorns snagged our clothes and boughs slapped us in the face. Then came another hour of what can best be described as sliding down the farmland. Going uphill had been challenging, but descending on loose stones and uneven ground presented its own set of problems. Every step required concentration, balance and the occasional silent negotiation with our knees. We then had a 50-minute drive back to the lodge, where the staff disappeared with our boots, only to return them later, cleaner than when we bought them. It was time for nourishment, a hot shower and the maximum allowable dosage of painkillers. I never expected the gorilla experience in Rwanda to be the easiest item on my travel list. I knew there was no guarantee that the trek would be simple, that the weather would cooperate nor that the gorillas would appear exactly when we wanted them to. But what followed was a privilege that no photograph, documentary nor daydream fully prepared me for. Somewhere between the dirt, the mountains, the exhaustion, the attacking gorillas and the post-trek painkillers, the Pablo family found a permanent place in my heart. WHAT TO WEAR/PACK: Gorilla trekking is not the time to prioritize looking stylish over being practical. Wear neutral colors like khaki, olive or brown; avoid bright colors and camouflage. Wear (all of which you shouldn't mind getting dirty): Underwear (sports bra, ladies) High socks Hiking pants (tucked into socks or worn with gaiters to keep creepy-crawlies out) Long-sleeved tops and layers High, waterproof hiking boots (ideally covering your ankles) Pack (in your waterproof daypack): Mobile phone Back-up mobile charger Camera and gear Raincoat Hair clip/tie Water bottle Gardening gloves (to protect your hands from thorns) Face mask (they will provide this if you don't want to bring your own) Sunscreen Sunglasses Wet wipes Tissues Snacks Insect repellent and bite treatment Chapstick First aid kit Passport KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Permits: There are only 96 permits available each day in Rwanda. It is highly recommended to book in advance, either online or via a reputable tour operator. Costs: At the time of writing, the permit was $1500 per person per day (discounts are available for Rwandan and East African residents). A portion of this revenue is directed toward local communities, to build schools and health centers and roads. There is also a compensation fund for local farmers should any gorillas damage their crops, which helps to ensure peaceful co-existence. Age: Minimum age limit is 15 years old. Passport: You should bring your passport, or confirm whether a copy will be accepted, as identification will be required when your permit is checked at the park headquarters. Duration: Treks typically last between 30 minutes and five hours, depending on where your gorilla family is resting. Distance: Try to stay 7-10 meters away from gorillas. Eye Contact: Avoid direct eye contact with the dominant silverback.

I've visited Copenhagen twice before, in 2015 and 2018, but this trip was entirely different. It wasn't about checking off the city's major sights nor hunting down the latest restaurants. It was about spending a long weekend with eight of my closest friends from high school - a group that somehow has managed to stay close despite living in different places, pursuing different careers and navigating life's many chapters. Coordinating a trip for nine people was no small feat, especially in a city where restaurants and hotels tend to cater to smaller groups. There were countless messages, spreadsheets and polls before we finally settled on a plan, but every bit of effort was worth it. Copenhagen provided the perfect backdrop for a weekend filled with incredible food, long conversations, plenty of laughter and the kind of memories that remind you why lifelong friendships are so special. ACCOMMODATION: For a girls' getaway, I couldn't recommend Manon Les Suites more highly. For the nine of us, we booked two two-bedroom, two-bathroom suites, which struck the perfect balance between having our own space and spending time together. The apartment-style layout made getting ready surprisingly stress-free (well, as stress-free as it can be with nine women). The hotel itself was very impressive. Its famous Junglefish Pool felt like it was transported straight from Bali, complete with lush tropical plants and soaring palm trees beneath a glass ceiling. Add in an excellent restaurant, stylish cocktail bar and spa and it quickly became somewhere we looked forward to returning to after a day exploring the city. DO: Woodies on Green Island - One of the highlights of the weekend was renting a Woodies boat and cruising through Copenhagen's canals. It was a relaxed and fun way to see the city from the water, with plenty of drinks, music and dancing. La Banchina - If the weather is on your side, don't miss La Banchina, one of Copenhagen's most beloved waterfront spots. Go for a swim in the harbor, spend a few hours sunbathing on the dock and settle in for lunch overlooking the water. Reservations aren't accepted though, so arriving early is your best chance of getting a sunny spot and/or a table. EAT & DRINK: Reffen - If you aren't lucky enough to get a spot at La Banchina, or the weather isn't cooperating, take the 10-minute walk to Copenhagen's vibrant waterfront street food market. From fresh seafood to tacos and Asian fusion, there's something to satisfy every craving. BARR - With beautifully executed Nordic cuisine in a warm, relaxed setting, BARR was the perfect place to sample classic Scandinavian flavors with a contemporary twist. 20 Grams - Brunch here was exactly what we needed, with excellent breakfast beverages, delicious food and a laid-back atmosphere that encouraged us to linger longer than we'd planned. Vækst - The greenhouse-inspired dining room was almost as memorable as the food itself. Beautifully designed and full of natural light, it was another standout meal from the weekend. Uformel - Our final dinner was in a private dining room, where we enjoyed a superb five-course tasting menu. Modern Scandinavian cooking at its best and a fitting finale to an already memorable culinary lineup. Alexandra Hus - When dinner was over, we headed to Alexandra Hus for cocktails and dancing. It was the perfect end to a weekend that none of us wanted to end. Copenhagen may be known for its design, cycling culture and world-class restaurants, but this trip reminded me that the best destination is often simply the one you experience with the right people. Between canal cruises, exceptional meals, endless laughter and the joy of spending uninterrupted time together, it was the kind of weekend we'll still be talking about until we start planning the next one.

Northern Lights? 'Not real' is what I would have said, had you asked me any time between 2015 and a few weeks ago. After somehow missing the Aurora Borealis every night on a 10-day road trip around Iceland, it became somewhat of a mission to witness it. As such, this year's adventure with the parentals was spent chasing Northern Lights in Norway. The trip started in Norway's second largest city, Bergen (AKA Bryggen). Although Bergen is considered big, by Norwegian standards, it very much has the charm of a small town. Statistically one of the wettest cities in Europe, it gets drenched in about 2.25m/89in of precipitation a year. Luckily, we were rain-ready with our wet-weather gear, so the downpouring didn't stop us from exploring. I recommend seeing the colorful Hanseatic buildings on the harbor (shown below), taking the cable car up to Mount Fløyen, visiting the fish market and eating dinner at Spisekroken. Delightful as Bergen was, I believe the city was best served as a gateway to the surrounding fjord country. On the eve of Saturday 13th October, we boarded Ms Nordnorge, one of the more recently refurbished ships in the Hurtigruten fleet. Hurtigruten (meaning 'fast route'), is a cruise, ferry and cargo operator that was established in 1893, by the government, to improve communications along Norway's coastline. Ms Nordnorge wasn't a mammoth, luxurious cruise liner. It was informal and comfortable, with no dress code, locally sourced food and a delightful crew. Our tour was the Classic Voyage North. On this 134-hour journey up the Norwegian coast, we stopped at all of the ports indicated below, traversed deep fjords, enjoyed expeditions and crossed the Arctic Circle before we disembarked in Kirkenes. At 8pm sharp we set out to sea. When we awoke the next morning, we were in Ålesund, surrounded by mountains, mist and insane wind. Around mid-day, we found ourselves in the middle of Hjørundfjord. Smaller boats took us to land for our first excursion, 'Hike with a Visit to a Shieling'. I must admit that I wasn't particularly enthused when I first read the title, but that was partly because I didn't know what a shieling was and partially because I had my heart set on visiting one of the world's most stunning swings, which was located in the same fjord, at an inn/pub called Christian-Gaard. However, once we arrived into Urke, Hjørundfjord it became clear that we would not have time nor the proper transport to get to the very remote swing in the road-less village of Trandal. As we began our hike, the beautiful scenery quickly curbed my disappointment. The air was fresh, the Sunnmøre Alps snow-capped and the river had never been 'so rich and full’ (in the apt words of our guide). Once we arrived at the shielings and I learned that they were hobbit huts, I became infinitely more excited about this expedition! Not only were there a bunch of Sherry-sized cabins dotted around, which pleased me as I have an affinity for miniature versions of things, but we were also going to sample local delicacies within the hobbit-holes. Although the hike was not exceedingly challenging, we had been walking at an incline for about an hour and half and I had worked up a bit of an appetite. After three-hours had passed, it was time to return to the ship and sail back to Ålesund, where we were allowed to disembark for a second time that day. We had a little wander around the cute port town, but had been a long day and it wet outside so we didn't venture too far. By Monday morning we were in Trondheim, Norway's third largest city. The top attraction here was the 200-year old wooden, colored houses in the Bakklandet neighborhood (pictured below). Also cool to see was an islet we nicknamed Execution Island. The real name was Munkholmen Island (but that was harder to say and less fun to sing). This was Trondheim's execution site in the Viking era. Over the years, it changed from a monastery to a prison and fortress and is now a recreational area with a beach and restaurant (seasonally open from May to September). We got back underway in time to pass some cute villages and wind farms before seeing our first Norwegian Sea sunset. That night, it was announced over the ship's intercom that the Northern Lights had been spotted. Everyone on the boat ran out to deck 7. We found a less crowded spot on deck 5, where we were able to set up our tripods and get some proof that Northern Lights really existed. Points for those who spot the Big Dipper in the picture below. I have to be honest, all I could really see was a grey streak, arcing across the sky, which looked a lot like the vapor trail of a low-flying plane. It was certainly not a spectacular display of green as captured in my photo. I later learned that the human eye views the Northern Lights generally in black & white, whereas DSLR camera sensors don’t have the same limitation. Couple that with long exposure times and high ISO settings, and you'll find that your camera has a much more dynamic range of vision in the dark than we humans do. By the morning of day four, we had crossed the Arctic Circle. We awoke with certificates left at our door. We arrived at port in Bodø around 12:30pm and got geared up for the 'RIB (rigid inflatable boat) Safari To Saltstraumen' excursion. The Saltstraumen Maelstrom is the world's most powerful tidal current. When active, you can see wild whirlpools, boils and vortices. I'll have to take the Internet's word on that though, as the tides didn't cooperate for us. Regardless, the trip was fabulous. It was like being in a scene of an action film, as all the speed boats headed into the abyss, in formation, hitting waves at 30 knots. On Wednesday, we arrived into Tromsø, where we visited the Wilderness Centre and learned a bit about dog sledding before meeting the huskies and their pups. The puppies were naughty little rascals, but playful and super soft (and dirty). That night, very faint Northern Lights came out to play. On Thursday, we disembarked in Honningsvåg, on the island of Magerøya, which is the northernmost city in Norway, located in the Nordkapp Municipality, in Finnmark county. We took a bus journey to the northernmost point on the European continent, called North Cape. It is located at 71 degrees North, inside the Arctic Circle, about 2,000km from the North Pole. The globe monument is said to mark the northern tip of Europe. Although the North Cape claimed to be the most northernmost point of Europe, it's fake news. The northernmost point is actually Knivskjellodden (71 11"48" N). You can see it in the middle of the photo below. Our final Aruora display occurred that night, giving us a great end to our time spent on Ms Nordnorge. East met West on Thursday morning, at the far-northern Norwegian town of Kirkenes, a few short miles from the Russian border. This was where our cruise culminated. We disembarked at 9am and were bused the airport for our flight to Copenhagen, via Oslo. Kirkenes was the turning point for those passengers staying on the cruise longer. It's worth noting that Hurtigruten offers a Northern Lights Promise for those who do the full 12-day cruise. If the Northern Lights don't make an appearance during your time on board (journeys between 1st October and 31st March), you can go back and do another 6 or 7-day voyage, free of charge. Although I was ready to be on dry land by the end of the trip, I was overwhelmed by Norway's beauty and felt that a cruise was the best way to experience the fjords and the coastal landscapes. I am also ecstatic to confirm that the Polar Lights are real! PHOTOGRAPHING THE NORTHERN LIGHTS: I was shooting with a Canon 80D and an 18-135mm lens. I had a tripod and a shutter release remote. I set my camera to the Live View setting so I could use the LCD screen as a bigger viewfinder. In Program shooting mode, I switched my focus from automatic to manual and adjusted the focus ring to infinity. For my best shots, my camera was set at f/3.5 and 1600 ISO with the lens open for 30 seconds. Best results for photographing Northern Lights will depend on your gear, but generally fall within f/2.8-f/5.6 for the aperture, 800-3200 for the ISO and 15-30 seconds for the shutter speed. *NOTE: Regardless of your gear/settings, you'll struggle to get a perfectly clear photo when you're on a rocking boat, moving at 18 knots, with the wind blowing. KNOWN BEFORE YOU GO: In Bergen, it's easy and cheap to take the Light Rail from the airport into the city center (Byparken is the stop you'll want). It takes about 45-mins and costs £3.40. Be sure to bring warm clothes and proper rain/wind gear. Hiking boots are a must. Announcements on board are made in several languages and you can set the phone in your room to allow or refuse them. I would recommend keeping them on at night though, so you can run outside if the Northern Lights are spotted. The Aurora Borealis is skittish, elusive and unpredictable. Seeing the lights depends not just on the weather (dry, clear skies are best) but also on location and a good dose of luck. Norway is one of the most expensive countries in Europe so bring your credit card! #norway #northernlights #auroraborealis #bergen #kirkenes #hurtigruten #nordnorge #cruise

After recently spending a lovely weekend in København (AKA Copenhagen), Denmark’s capital, I can say, with full confidence, that the Danish are the tallest collection of people I've ever mingled amongst. Officially, the world's tallest people are the Dutch (average 6’1” or 1.85m), but the average Danish adult is only slightly shorter (6ft or 1.83m). I have never felt short in my life! In addition to being blessed with height, the Danes are also extremely happy. Denmark is ranked third on The Happiest Countries in the World list. Everyone, from waitstaff to hotel receptionists to fellow bar patrons, were smiling and exceedingly friendly (and all spoke perfect English). If you're planning to visit Copenhagen, bring your wallet - and make sure it's full of Danish Krone! Denmark recently placed seventh on the list of The World’s Most Expensive Countries to Visit. Below is a list of my personal recommendations on where to stay/eat/drink and what to do/see, if you find yourself in Copenhagen or are planning a trip there: STAY: I would recommend staying in the Nyhavn area of town, if it's your first time visiting. I was at a hotel called Scandic Front. It was fine for what I needed - great location, friendly staff and a comfy bed, but there wasn’t anything particularly brilliant about the hotel itself. It would have been nice if they had mentioned that the whole area outside the hotel was under construction before we booked (below is a view from my room) and also if they hadn't initially given me a key to a room that was already occupied. I’d recommend also looking into 71 Nyhavn Hotel as an option. I can’t speak to when the weather isn’t great, but on beautiful days, like I experienced, there were loads of people out and about on the streets in Hyhavn. Open container laws don't exist, so everyone was sat around with their friends, drinking adult beverages, chatting and enjoying the sunshine. EAT: If you're a foodie, you have no doubt heard of Noma, which has been voted third on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. If you want spend a small fortune, be sure to book several months in advance. As an alternative to Noma, try Amass, which is ranked #66 on The World’s 100 Best Restaurants list. The former head chef of Noma, Matt Orlando (who is coincidentally from the same town where I formerly lived in San Diego), has branched out and is now the owner of this eco-friendly, organic, sustainable restaurant where they grow their own herbs out back. It’s far easier to get a reservation here and about a quarter of the price of Noma. The space was very cool, the sunset was phenomenal, the wine was excellent, the Scottish waiter was adorable, the food was creative and the owner (who came over and chatted with us for about 15 mins) was absolutely lovely. Copenhagen Street Food (AKA Papiroen) is an old warehouse, on Paper Island, that has been filled with a wide array of international food stalls. We didn’t have an opportunity to eat there, but it looked amazing! DRINK: Ruby Cocktail Bar is a bit like having a drink in your grandmother’s sitting room. 1105 is an intimate cocktail bar, which is worth a visit. I don’t recommend ordering wine there though. SEE/DO: Put on some comfy shoes, acquaint yourself with the city and wander around. It’s a flat, very walkable city. Don't miss the following: Church of our Saviour - With it's external winding staircase, it has views all the way to Sweden on a nice day. Freetown Christiania - A self-governed, hippie-commune of about 850 residents, which is technically not part of the EU and where marijuana is legal. Take a canal tour - For views, from the water, of sites like the Little Mermaid Statue (unimpressive, but famous), the Copenhagen Opera House, Dome of Visions, etc. Carlsberg Tour - I didn't have time to do this, but I heard good things. Skip Tivoli Gardens unless you’re in the mood for an amusement park. Rent a bike and get lost - Cycling is the most popular means of transportation in this city. Shop on Strøget.

Living just two hours from Paris means it has become less of a destination and more of a habit. I've visited so many times that I've lost count - for long weekends, day trips, celebrations and, occasionally, simply because the Eurostar was calling. Which makes it all the stranger that I've never written about it. Perhaps it's because Paris resists being neatly packaged into a list of "must-sees". Every visit unfolds a little differently. Sometimes it's centered around a remarkable meal, other times an afternoon spent wandering Saint-Germain, meandering around Luxembourg Gardens or discovering a wine bar I immediately know I'll return to. After my latest visit, I decided it was finally time to put together this guide. Rather than a definitive itinerary, it's more of an evolving collection of places I genuinely recommend – the restaurants worth booking, the neighborhoods I choose to stay in and the experiences that, no matter how many times I visit, never seem to lose their magic. STAY: I recommend staying in one of two areas: the Latin Quarter or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Both are located on Paris’s Left Bank and are wonderfully placed for exploring the city. The two neighborhoods sit alongside each other and often blend together. For a lively, local atmosphere with excellent food, charming streets and a slightly more bohemian feel, the Latin Quarter is a fantastic choice. With its historic buildings, bookshops and student energy, it feels quintessentially Parisian. For something a little more refined, Saint-Germain offers elegant boutiques, art galleries, beautiful cafés and some of the city’s most iconic restaurants. It has a more sophisticated atmosphere while still retaining plenty of old-world charm. DO: Moulin Rouge - No first visit to Paris is complete without experiencing the city’s most famous cabaret. The Moulin Rouge remains an iconic institution, with elaborate costumes, music and the unmistakable atmosphere of Montmartre. Caveau de la Huchette - For a truly memorable night, head underground to this legendary jazz club. Hidden in a medieval cellar in the Latin Quarter, it has been hosting live jazz since the 1940s and feels like stepping back in time. They do not take bookings so show up early to queue. Le Speakeasy Paris - A stylish late-night option for cocktails and live jazz, perfect for when you want to continue the evening. Seine Boat Trip - While it may sound touristy, there is no better way to appreciate Paris' grand architecture than from the water. The views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame and the historic bridges are hard to beat. Jardin du Luxembourg - Created in the 17th century for the Luxembourg Palace, these gardens combine manicured French elegance with a more relaxed Parisian charm. EAT/DRINK: Riviera Fuga - Fancy lunch on a boat, overlooking Paris, from the Seine? This is a great choice when you want something a little different from a traditional restaurant. Pain Vin Fromages - A cosy spot dedicated to classic French comfort food. Perfect for a chilly evening when only bread, wine and cheese fondue will do. Café Pierre Hermé - Because no Paris trip is complete without macarons. Pierre Hermé is one of the city’s legendary pastry names and a must for anyone with a sweet tooth. Brasserie de Prés - A stylish modern brasserie offering a contemporary take on French dining, with a focus on quality ingredients and a beautiful setting. Chez Janou - There are plenty of reasons to visit, but let's be honest, you're here for the chocolate mousse. Served tableside from an enormous bowl, it's wonderfully rich, gloriously excessive and quite possibly the mousse by which all others should be judged. Maison Revka - A glamorous Slavic restaurant with a beautiful interior and a slightly more luxurious atmosphere. Restaurant Dandelion - It's worth the trip to the outskirts of the city for this for the excellent food in a relaxed setting. Le Jardin de Verre by Locke - A beautiful terrace for drinks when you want to slow down and enjoy the Parisian atmosphere. Bouillon - For classic French food, seek out one of Paris’s historic Bouillons. These bustling restaurants serve favourites such as steak frites, onion soup and escargots at surprisingly reasonable prices.

I was slightly disappointed that there wasn't a murder. After all, when you board the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, it's almost impossible not to picture Hercule Poirot wandering the corridors in search of a killer. And the scene was almost too perfect: an impossibly glamorous train, a cast of intriguing strangers and, as it happened, familiar faces from The Walking Dead and Troy. If Agatha Christie had been assembling a list of suspects, she'd have been spoiled for choice. Alas, there was no murder to solve. Instead, my 26-hour passage from Venice to Paris delivered nothing more sinister than impeccable service, extraordinary food and scenery that shifted from the lakes of northern Italy, through the Swiss Alps and into the French countryside. The biggest crime committed on board was how quickly the experience came to an end. I was incredibly lucky to enjoy Belmond's legendary train as the guest of a travel journalist friend. It is one of those experiences that many people only ever dream about, and from the moment I stepped aboard in Venice, it felt as though I had returned to the golden age of rail travel. The journey ended in Paris, but the adventure began in Venice... VENICE TRANSIT: Venice is unlike almost any other city in the world. Even getting from the airport to your hotel is a unique endeavor. Whether you opt for the budget-friendly Alilaguna water bus (my choice), a speedy private water taxi, or the more economical bus/Vaporetto combo, your first glimpse of the floating city is unforgettable. After exiting customs, I followed the clearly marked “Water Transport” signs at the airport, where I purchased my one-way ticket (€18) from the Alilaguna kiosk. I then joined the queue for the Orange Line. I alighted at Madonna dell'Orto, the first and closest stop to my hotel. From there, it was a sweaty 12-minute walk up, over and down the Venetian bridges, navigating cobblestone streets and narrow passageways with my luggage in tow. ACCOMMODATION: As if traveling on the Orient Express wasn't enough, I was fortunate to spend the night before at Orient Express Venezia. Opening its doors on 1st April 2026, after an eight-year restoration, the hotel occupies a magnificent 15th-century aristocratic residence, blending centuries of history with contemporary luxury. Although the hotel and the train share a name, they are separate brands. The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is operated by Belmond, while Orient Express Venezia is part of the newly revived Orient Express hotel brand from Accor. DINING: I had fewer than 24 hours in Venice, so this isn't an exhaustive food guide, but there were two places that made my brief stay memorable - one wonderfully traditional, the other unapologetically sumptuous. Taverna al Remer - Just a short walk from the Rialto Bridge, this taverna feels like one of those places you almost don't want to tell anyone about. Hidden away in a quiet courtyard, it's refreshingly free from the crowds that dominate much of central Venice. Rustic and authentic, it's a great place to enjoy cicchetti (Venice's answer to Spanish tapas) and a spritz. La Casati - Located within Orient Express Venezia, La Casati is the culinary vision of three-Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck, whose philosophy centers around exceptional Italian ingredients and elegant simplicity. Every dish was beautifully considered, and the service was as polished as you'd expect from one of Venice's newest luxury hotels. The highlight, however, wasn't just the food. We were fortunate enough to meet Chef Heinz Beck himself, who was incredibly warm, generous with his time and genuinely passionate about what he and his team are creating. BELMOND VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS At 9:50am, my friend and I were collected from our hotel by private water taxi. As we cruised up the Grand Canal, we had our last views of the Floating City before our adventure truly began. We were dropped off at Venice Santa Lucia station, where passengers gathered patiently on the platform, cameras in hand, waiting for the blue-and-gold silhouette to appear. And then, it did. There was something undeniably magical about seeing the train for the first time. The gleaming Art Deco carriages, polished brass details and iconic livery somehow managed to exceed even the highest expectations. We were welcomed aboard by the impeccably dressed crew, who greeted us as though we were returning old friends rather than first-time guests. We were escorted through the beautifully restored carriages to our suite (Le Lac) in cabin B, where bite-sized snacks and a server waiting to serve chilled champagne were already waiting. The cork had barely popped before the train gently eased away from the platform. Our first stop was the legendary Bar Car. With its polished wood paneling, heavy velvet drapery and decadent cinematic noir atmosphere, it was the social heart of the train. The saxophonist provided the soundtrack, whilst guests whispered secrets over martinis as Venice disappeared behind us. Before long, it was time for our first dining experience. We opted for the earlier noon lunch seating so we could watch Italy drift past the windows while we ate. The afternoon elapsed in the most delightful way possible. There was no itinerary to follow and no sightseeing to tick off, just the gentle rhythm of the train, spectacular scenery and great conversations with fascinating fellow passengers. As evening approached, it was time to return to our suite and embrace one of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express's most cherished traditions: dressing for dinner. The Dyson hairdryer in our cabin was a particularly welcomed treat. By 7pm (the first of the two dinner options), the train had transformed. Black tie, elegant gowns and sparkling jewelry filled the aisles. Dinner was every bit as glamorous as you'd imagine, with beautifully presented dishes, lots of caviar and free-flowing Veuve Clicquot. Of course, the night didn't end there. Back in the Bar Car, bartenders mixed negronis, martinis, spritzes and whisky sours while the resident pianist took requests on the baby grand. Guests danced, laughed and swapped stories well into the early hours. Nobody seemed to care what time it was, which was good, because we ended up being there until 4am. Even the staff had gone to bed. Although there was no mysterious murder to solve and no Poirot-style drama unfolding in the carriages, the reality was even better. This trip was never about getting from Venice to Paris; it was about everything that happened in between. The beautifully restored carriages, the extraordinary attention to detail, the friendships formed over dinner and drinks and the rare chance to slow down and celebrate the elegance, romance and the simple joy of the journey itself. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat! Although next time, I’d add a few more nights in Venice beforehand, choose a longer route, and perhaps pack a detective novel in my suitcase…just in case. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Orient Express Dress Code: 'In keeping with the spirit of the occasion, you can never be overdressed on board‘. Jeans, shorts and trainers are not permitted outside the privacy of your cabin. Passport: Staff will collect your passport when you board in Venice and return it just before arrival in Paris. Luggage: At check-in, you will need to hand over your larger pieces of luggage, which will be stored for you and returned when you arrive in Paris. Each passenger is permitted one carry-on bag/suitcase and one garment bag, which will be delivered directly to your cabin. In fact, your porter will manage your luggage throughout the entire journey, from collection at your hotel in Venice to helping you into a taxi in Paris (thank you, Nikolay!). Cabins: There are three suite cabins and three grand suites, with many of accommodations consisting of standard cabins. Occasionally, an additional carriage called L'Observatoire is added, but it was not part of my train. Facilities: In each standard cabin, you will find a basin and a vanity unit. There are no showers nor toilets in the cabin; instead, each carriage has shared bathrooms. The suites and grand suites have private toilets and showers. Meals: There are set menus for each meal, but you can order off-menu or additional drinks for an extra cost. The team is attentive to allergies and dietary restrictions, which should be disclosed at time of booking. Swag: Our cabin came with a selection of elegant keepsakes. We were each gifted a kimono and a beautifully crafted vanity case made from fabrics preserved during one of the train's restorations. There were also luxurious toiletries, as well as VSOE-branded stationery, pens, postcards and playing cards for us to take home as souvenirs. Security: Increased security measures have been introduced in response to pickpocketing around the train's arrival and departure points. Guests are advised to remain mindful of their belongings, be cautious of anyone offering assistance who is not clearly identifiable as a member of the staff and keep valuables close at hand.

When people think of a holiday in Spain, Murcia might not immediately spring to mind, but that's part of its charm. One of the most attractive areas is La Manga del Mar Menor, a stunning strip of coastline perfect for relaxing, playing golf and enjoying the sea. With 3,000+ hours of sunshine each year, Murcia offers an authentic, off-the-beaten-path slice of Spanish life, without all the crowds. A long weekend is enough to hit the highlights, though a longer visit allows you explore at a leisurely pace. ACCOMMODATION: I stayed at the Grand Hyatt La Manga Club Golf & Spa, about a 35-min drive away from the Región de Murcia International Airport (RMU). The hotel is located within the wider La Manga Club, a premier gated 1,400-acre luxury sports resort. Whether you want to completely unwind or stay active, the Grand Hyatt has what you need with golf courses, tennis and padel facilities, several restaurants and bars, an Arabian-inspired spa, and multiple pools to enjoy under the Murcian sun. DO: Decompress at a spa: Mar Menor is renowned for its hyper-saline waters and mineral-rich therapeutic mud, which have made the region a hub for wellness and beauty retreats. Staying at Grand Hyatt gives you the perfect excuse to indulge in some pampering at Alma's Spa, a serene escape offering soothing treatments, thermal facilities and tranquil spaces designed to help you unwind. Explore Cartegena: About a 30-min drive from the hotel, you'll find the port of Cartagena, a prized city since Carthaginian times. Due to its strategic position on the Murcia coast, it has been inhabited by several cultures which have left their mark on its artistic heritage. When I visited, it happened to coincide with Las Cruces de Mayo (the Crosses of May), a vibrant spring fiesta held on 3rd May, when flower-decorated crosses are displayed throughout the historic city center. The celebration blends religious traditions with lively street festivities, filling the city with music, dancing and an infectious atmosphere. This was the second time I’ve unexpectedly stumbled upon a Spanish festival on a weekend away (the first being Las Fallas in Valencia). Visit the seaside: The Grand Hyatt is located roughly 10-miles from the main tourist area of La Manga del Mar Menor. Driving to the start of the 13-mile peninsula (near Cabo de Palos) typically takes around 15–20 minutes. Once there, you can enjoy fresh seafood at one of the many waterside restaurants, stroll along the rugged coastline, admire the iconic Cabo de Palos Lighthouse, dip your feet in the sea, or sip a piña colada at one of the laid-back beach bars overlooking the Mediterranean. CONSUME: I didn’t come across any particular restaurants that completely blew me away, but everything we ate and drank was consistently very good. Murcia is widely recognized as “Europe’s Vegetable Garden”, a nickname earned thanks to its incredibly fertile land, more than 300 days of sunshine each year and its role as one of Europe’s major suppliers of fresh produce. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Getting Around: Ride-sharing apps, like Uber, are not available. Transport is typically via taxis, pre-booked car services or private hire vehicles. Credit cards are generally accepted. Tipping: Not mandatory nor expected, as service staff are paid a living wage. It is treated as a reward for exceptional service rather than an obligation. Rounding up to the nearest euro is common, while 5–10% is generous for good service Weather: Known as one of Europe's warmest and driest regions. July/August are often very hot, making the coast more appealing. Spring/autumn offer ideal temperatures for sightseeing. Winter months are mild and can be suitable for off-season travel. Currency: Euro (€).

A calm week in Barbados was just what the doctor ordered after a fun, but hectic, Thanksgiving week, spent between New York and Connecticut. Contrary to popular belief, Barbados is geographically located in the western Atlantic Ocean, just east of the Caribbean Sea. Although this independent British Commonwealth island nation is not technically part of the Caribbean, it is still known for its tropical climate, white sand beaches, crystal clear waters, rich marine life, laid-back vibe and delicious local cuisine. It's also the birthplace of rum and has an exciting pirate history! ACCOMODATION I stayed at the Colony Club , set on seven acres of land in the exclusive St. James area of the island. I was upgraded to a spacious suite surrounded by lush tropical scenery. Although the room was very comfortable, offered a lot of amenities and the grounds were lovely, the hotel was in need of renovations - which happened in 2025. ACTIVITIES There probably were many things to do and see on the island, but I mainly spent my week relaxing. The biggest decisions I made each morning were what to have for breakfast and whether to sun myself by the beach or the pool. I did spend a bit of time at sea though. I went out on a two-hour glass bottom boat excursion, where I drank rum punch and snorkeled amongst beautiful coral reefs and the S.S. Stavronikita f reighter that sunk in 1978. Another day, I hired a luxury private boat for six hours (through Seaduced , which I HIGHLY recommend ) . Sebastian and Stacey collected me from the beach, at my hotel. We sailed up and down the West Coast, looking at posh residences and restaurants, all whilst being plied with delicious snacks and a full bar selection. I was dropped off at The Fish Pot for lunch. Afterward, I had the most magical experience snorkeling with a green turtle. The reptile swam with me for about ten minutes, popping his head above water to say hello and letting me pet him. I expected his shell to be rough and barnacley, but it was very smooth. *Fun fact: If turtles get too fat they can fracture their shell and become unable to pull their legs in and out. Poor little guys. FOOD/DRINK I enjoyed some delicious slices of paradise at the following restaurants... QP Bistro - Go for good food and good vibes! This place is breath taking with its multi-levels, hanging plants, water features and the most captivating view of the ocean. The live music is a bonus. You do have to book in advance and put down a sizeable deposit. About a five-minute walk from my hotel was the Horny Ram . I expected it to be a total dive, but it was actually a really lovely, informal, local gastro pub. The owners have a boat and catch the fish fresh each day. It was so good that we went twice. Next-door to the Horny Ram, is its sister restaurant, SeaCat , owned by the same people. The term sea cat is slang for octopus and the starter with the same name is not to be missed. The Tides is one of the top fine-dining beachfront restaurants in Barbados. Here, you'll eat whilst being serenaded by waves crashing against the rocky shore. There are also large trees in between the tables providing privacy and making it feel like you're in some sort of fancy treehouse. Lone Star  is a glamorous beachfront restaurant and boutique hotel, renowned for attracting high-profile guests such as Simon Cowell and Rihanna, alongside a stylish, trend-conscious crowd. With its idyllic seaside setting, exceptional cuisine crafted by a celebrated chef, and effortlessly elegant atmosphere, it embodies the very essence of tropical chic. Lobster Alive is the island’s only restaurant dedicated to serving fresh, locally caught lobster. Nestled in Carlisle Bay, this quaint open-air spot offers a relaxed atmosphere that blends laid-back beach charm with the smooth sounds of live jazz, creating an effortlessly inviting dining experience. I received a lot of recommendations but didn't have time to visit many of them. Below is a list that I cannot vouch for, but I would like to go back and try: Sea Shed - Said to be ultra-chic, yet relaxed. Enjoy a ‘Shed Sunday’, sipping champagne by the magnum whilst listening to Bajan DJs. Due to growing popularity, it is recommended to book in advance. Baia - I'm told the ceviche is to die for. La Cabane - You can relax at this St. Tropez-style beach bar haven all day. Pier One Restaurant - A full-service bar and restaurant set on a man-made island at the Port St. Charles Yacht Club. The Local - A farm-to-table restaurant, drinkery, beach club and marketplace housed in an early 1800's building on the beach. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas: Not required for Brits nor Americans Online Customs & Immigration Form : Save yourself some time and complete this up to 72-hours before you land Currency: Most places accept local Bajan currency or USD Taxis: Very expensive and require cash (USD or Bajan Dollars). There are no ride-sharing apps. It was 122 BBD from airport to the hotel (35 mins), 80 BBD to and from QP (9 mins) and 60 BBD to and from Tides (5 mins). Plugs: They use the same plugs as in the USA Weather: It was 26° - 29°C the whole week. We had two day of on/off quick rain showers, but mostly it was perfection Service & Tipping: Restaurants tend to run on island time (very slow), but everyone is friendly, so it makes it bearable. Tipping in Barbados is discretionary and should reflect the service you have received , however, a service charge of 10-15% is typically added to your bill in hotels and restaurants. Seating: In Barbados, you should be aware of the concept of wet or dry seating when making bookings. Wet seating offers you a beach chair and access to the beach/sea. Dry seating would be within the restaurant. Independence Day: 30th November Beaches: All beaches in Barbados are public, so you can visit any beach on the island, including those in front of luxury hotels and resorts Camouflage: It is illegal for civilians, including children, to wear or possess camouflage clothing or military-style apparel in Barbados Airport: Get to the BGI airport early as it took ages to get through check-in and security #barbados #caribbean #island #holetown #stjames #bridgetown

Tucked away in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Bologna is a city made for slow wandering and enthusiastic eating. Its terracotta porticos stretch endlessly, sheltering bustling markets and the promise of fresh tagliatelle at every corner. Every street smells like dinner. Just when you’ve settled into the rhythm of pasta, piazzas and aperitivos, a short train-and-bus journey takes you somewhere entirely different. In just a few hours, Bologna’s bustle gives way to sweeping views, steep streets and a maze of staircases in San Marino (the world’s fifth smallest country). A weekend might not sound like enough time to explore both a city and a country, but Bologna and San Marino make it surprisingly doable. From unforgettable meals in Bologna to panoramic viewpoints in San Marino, here are the bites, spots and experiences that made this two-country escape so worthwhile. BOLOGNA, ITALY ACCOMMODATION: As I was travelling solo, I opted for an Airbnb rather than a hotel. I chose a unique loft that was once the music room of a palace. The space felt grand, with ceiling frescoes that made it easy to imagine life during the Italian Renaissance. The flat was conveniently located between the train station and Bologna’s historic centre. It was more beautiful than functional, but it worked perfectly for a short stay. If you prefer a hotel experience, the Grand Hotel Majestic is worth considering for its central location and classic elegance. DO: Garisenda Tower is Bologna’s famous leaning tower. It was once open to visitors but is currently closed for restoration due to its increasingly precarious tilt. Just off Piazza del Nettuno, you’ll find Biblioteca Salaborsa. Look through the transparent floor in the main hall to spot Roman ruins below, then head down to level -1 to walk through the archaeological site itself. When in Italy, a gelato making class feels essential. At La Soffritta cooking school, I spent two hours learning the fundamentals - from selecting quality ingredients to mixing, churning and freezing. The blood orange flavor was a standout surprise. CONSUME: For a relaxed, no-frills lunch, Bodega Zapap offers an inexpensive, yet delicious, pizza and wine that hits the spot. Book ahead for Vicolo Colombina , a Michelin-listed restaurant known for its traditional Emilian cuisine. My tagliatelle al ragù, paired with a half bottle of Lambrusco, came to just €44, including bread, water and tip. Still craving bolognese on my second night, I headed to Trattoria Osteria Buca Manzoni for another plate of tagliatelle al ragù and a glass of house red. SAN MARINO GETING THERE: This landlocked microstate, surrounded by Italy, is the third smallest country in Europe. Despite its size, getting there requires a bit of planning as there’s no train station nor airport, so access is by car or bus only. I took a direct train from Bologna Centrale to Rimini (about 1 hour and 10 minutes). From there, it’s a short walk across the road to catch the Bonelli Bus , located in front of Hotel Napoleon. With just 10 minutes between connections, the transfer was tight but manageable. The bus ride to the Centro Storico Capolinea (the final stop) took about an hour. Booking both legs in advance made the journey smooth and stress-free. DO: From the bus stop, it’s about a 15-minute uphill walk to Guaita, the first of San Marino’s three iconic towers. After exploring the fortress and climbing the tower, I followed the scenic Passo delle Streghe (Witches’ Path) to the second tower, Cesta. It was about a 5–10 minute walk with incredible views. Unless you’re particularly interested in weapons and armor, 20 minutes per tower is plenty. I skipped the third tower as it’s not open to the public. Entry to the first two towers and several museums cost €11, while the path between them is free. San Marino’s shopping scene is unlike anywhere else. Its cobbled streets are lined with medieval-themed shops selling everything from armor and swords to traditional souvenirs. The country’s relatively liberal weapons laws make this an unexpectedly prominent feature of the experience. CONSUME: For lunch, I chose Ritrovo dei Lavoratori XXVIII Luglio. Arriving right at opening (noon) meant immediate seating, but by 2pm the place was completely full. San Marino is known for its love of truffles, so I ordered the truffle ravioli, which was a rich and fitting choice for the setting. Bologna and San Marino make for an unexpectedly perfect pairing: one grounded in rich culinary tradition, the other perched dramatically above it all, offering a completely different perspective - both literally and figuratively. It’s a journey that balances indulgence with adventure, and history with simplicity. And perhaps that’s the real takeaway: sometimes the best trips aren’t about going far, but about experiencing something entirely different just a few hours away. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Bologna Airport (BLQ) : The new EU Entry/Exit System (EES) is being rolled out. During my visit, this meant going through multiple biometric checks and  a passport stamp. Expect some teething issues for now. Bologna Taxis : Uber isn’t widely used, so taxis are the easiest option. A 15-minute journey to/from the airport cost just under €25, and cards are accepted. San Marino Border Control : Despite being a separate country, there is no passport check when entering. San Marino Terrain : San Marino is built on a mountain, with steep streets and plenty of stairs. Comfortable shoes and light layers to easily shed are essential. San Marino Timings : One day is more than enough. I spent about six and a half hours there but could have comfortably seen everything in around four. Connectivity : Both mobile signal and Wi-Fi were patchy in restaurants in Bologna and everywhere in San Marino. Tipping : Not expected but appreciated. A small cover charge (€1–€3 per person) is standard for bread and table settings. Currency : The Euro is used in both Italy and San Marino.

My polar expedition took me to a place where time felt suspended and the sun almost never set. A frozen, mobile dead zone so quiet that the only sounds were penguins sneezing, the thunderous crack of calving icebergs and the breathy exhales of surfacing whales. It’s a land so remote that fewer than a fraction of a percent of the world’s population will ever stand upon it. A place where the landscape feels utterly untouched by time and unspoiled by humans. Celebrating Christmas at Earth’s final frontier, surrounded by endless white horizons on my seventh continent, was more than a holiday. It was a once-in-a-lifetime immersion into one of the rawest, most extraordinary places I’ve ever been. That sense of isolation was interrupted only by the reality of ship life. Over 1,550 nautical miles , our vessel carried 113 passengers and 72 crew members, including a group from Flash Pack and 18 Ukrainians traveling with Bodo Travel. In total, 16 nationalities were represented, creating a young, lively crowd that set a fun, energetic tone from the very start. Below is a play-by-play of my time in this frozen wonderland... 18th December 2025 - Embarkation Our luggage was collected, by Poseidon , from our room at the Arakur Hotel , promptly at 8:00am. After breakfast at the hotel, we checked out at 10:00am. With time to spare before boarding the ship in the afternoon, we took the shuttle into town, ran a few errands, bought a few last minute necessities and enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch at Isabel . At around 4:00pm, we boarded the Sea Spirit. At check-in, we handed our passports over to reception, where they were held for the duration of the trip. Then we made our way to our triple suite (#347) to unpack and settle in. The afternoon unfolded with drinks and snacks, followed by a welcome meeting with our Expedition Leader, Chris Bruttel. Shortly after, we attended a safety briefing and completed the mandatory lifeboat drill - the official start to our Antarctic adventure. Following dinner, we received our Poseidon expedition parkas and muck boots. My boots had been a point of contention in the lead-up to trip due to sizing issues. After months of back-and-forth, they had to be specially ordered from Canada and only arrived on the day we embarked. This whole ordeal ultimately resulted in a $150 onboard credit in my name. That night, as we slept, the ship quietly carried us through the Beagle Channel and into the Drake Passage. 19th December 2025 - Day at Sea We were jolted awake at 8:00am by a blaring, aggressive song and a morning announcement from Chris. The day was spent eating, reviewing environmental and safety procedures, bio-cleaning our gear, birdwatching and enjoying the unusually tranquil seas. That evening, after enjoying ice cream and a welcome cocktail with the captain and expedition team, we were treated to the first sunset of the trip, casting its golden light at 10:40pm. 20th December 2025 - First Landing Blessed with unusually calm waters in the Drake Passage ( Drake Lake) , we navigated it in just a day and a half. That smooth crossing earned us an unexpected bonus - an extra landing, ahead of schedule. Today was the day we’d step off the boat and have an adventure! Penguins swimming and porpoising around us like tiny dolphins were our first sign that Antarctica was close. Our first landfall was on Half Moon Island, located in the South Shetland Islands. Despite the snowy and windy conditions, we were thrilled to see chinstrap and gentoo penguins, and even one lost Adélie penguin wandering amongst them. The little waddlers were tending to their chicks and courting each other, offering pebbles to their mates. They were loud, a little stinky, delightfully clumsy and absolutely hilarious. I was smitten! 21st December 2025 - Summer Solstice The morning was spent cruising around Spert Island (another of the South Shetland Islands) in a zodiac. The towering icebergs around us were utterly breathtaking. Between excursions, we were entertained by humpback whales circling the ship. Later that day, we visited Palaver Point, a famous, rocky headland on the west side of Two Hummock Island, located within the Palmer Archipelago of the South Shetland Islands. True to its name, the penguins were delightfully chaotic. Many were nesting, sitting on eggs and honking like confused donkeys. On the longest day of the year, we had a third landing of the day, but our first on the actual Antarctic continent, at Portal Point. With little wildlife in sight, we were free to play in the snow and have a bit of fun. The sun set around 12:40am and, in true polar fashion, rose again just a couple of hours later. 22nd December 2025 Our early start took us on Danco, a mile-long island tucked into the southern Errera Channel. In one extraordinary stretch of time, Antarctica put on a full performance - fornicating gentoo penguins, sculpted icebergs, the crack and roar of an avalanche, passing whales and a lone leopard seal sunning itself atop an iceberg. It was here, too, that I captured my favorite video of the trip. Later, in Paradise Harbor, a pod of roughly twenty killer whales closed in on our ship, playing and socializing in the icy stillness. The captain even rerouted our course so we could linger with the orcas. It was a rare sighting that I won’t soon forget. For our second continental landing, we stepped ashore at Brown Station, an Argentine research base that now operates during the summer only. The day was so warm and sunny that we shed our gloves and outer layers. As we headed back to the ship by zodiac, my dad snapped this beautiful photo of our vessel surrounded by icebergs. If you look closely, you can even spot a little whale tail to the right of the ship. Tonight was when the ice campers slept rough in Leith Cove. I took a different approach, staying dry and warm in the ship’s bar, drinking far too much for far too long, lulled by the endless daylight and the absence of any real signal to call it a night. 23rd December 2025 With no early wake-up call, we enjoyed a slow morning. I skipped breakfast and used the time to sleep off some of the night before. When I finally awoke, I was thrilled to step out onto the deck and watch as we passed through the Lemaire Channel. This renowned 11-kilometer strait in Antarctica, nestled between the Kyiv Peninsula and Booth Island, is often called 'Kodak Gap' or 'Kodak Alley' for its breathtaking beauty. Soaring, snow-covered cliffs rose on either side and dense, picturesque fields of ice floated across the still, mirror-like water, making reflections a photographer’s dream. The channel is known to become blocked with sea ice, sometimes making passage impossible, but luck was on our side. After cruising through the Channel, we landed on Yalour Island, where a parade of adorable Adélie penguins were hard at work nesting and having an absolute blast belly-sliding across the snow. Watching them tumble, waddle and skitter around was endlessly entertaining. With only 60 guests allowed on the island at a time, the rest of us set out on zodiac tours, which were just as thrilling. We weaved between icebergs that seemed to take on all sorts of shapes, dodged playful seals lounging on the floes and watched penguins dart and dive through the water. Every turn brought a new scene that never grew old. For dinner, it was warm and dry enough for us to enjoy a BBQ on Deck 5 aft. It was one of the most spectacular dining views I’ve ever experienced, with whales and icebergs all around. 24th December 2025 - Christmas Eve Christmas Eve looked a little different this year. It kicked off at Vernadsky Station, a Ukrainian research base, where we toured the facilities, mailed postcards to our loved ones from the edge of the world and toasted the season with a free shot of homemade vodka at the world’s southernmost pub - Antarctica style! Our second stop of the day was at the neighboring Wordie House, named after Scottish polar explorer James Wordie, who served as chief scientist and geologist on Shackleton’s 1914–1917 Endurance expedition. The base was in use until 1954, when operations moved to Vernadsky. Preserved with hundreds of original artifacts (lamps, bunks, equipment, food cans, artwork, etc.), it offered a fascinating glimpse into the harsh realities of early Antarctic life. Later, at Port Charcot, a small bay at the northern end of Booth Island, we got up close to playful seals and spotted rare 'headless' and flying penguins. That night, a ship record was broken when 79 people voluntarily jumped into the 3°C water, all to say they’d taken part in the Polar Plunge. Human participants ranged in age from 10 to 73 - but I’m not sure how old the curious whale was that joined the party. By the end, peer pressure had even convinced the expedition leader, Chris, and his wife, Fabi, to dive in. Hot mulled wine raised all the plungers' core temperature as we cruised back through the Lemaire Channel, signaling the start of our return to Argentina. The festive drinks continued well into the wee hours of Christmas. 25th December 2025 - Christmas Day The news on Christmas morning wasn’t great. It felt impossible that our run of good luck could end, but Antarctica reminded us of who was in charge. The captain decided to depart about 12 hours earlier than anticipated, to avoid a storm that threatened to make the Drake Passage unnavigable. This meant our final zodiac ride was canceled and we faced a rocky day at sea (~3.5-meter waves). Many people battled seasickness. A few lectures were offered to entertain those well enough to attend, but most passengers stayed in their cabins. 26th December - Boxing Day Waves built from 4–5 meters to a punishing 6–7 meters at their worst. I couldn’t eat and only felt okay when I was horizontal. Moving around the ship was a challenge - you had to keep 'one hand for yourself and one hand for the ship.' Experiencing the infamous Drake Shake was far less magical than everything that had come before. The one thing I did manage was to participate in the photo contest, where I took third place with this shot of a seal. 27th December 2025 - Day at Sea The smooth waters of the Beagle Channel, where we were for most of the day, were a welcomed change from being tossed around by the Drake. It was mainly an administrative day spent returning boots and name tags, settling bills, paying gratuities and swapping contact information with our shipmates. We enjoyed one last dinner together as one big Antarctic family, followed by a few goodbye drinks in the bar. 28th December 2025 - Disembarkation Since we were already so close to Ushuaia, we were unceremoniously kicked off the boat at the ungodly hour of 7:00am. Luckily, luggage storage had been organized by Poseidon, because our flight wasn’t until 6:00pm, leaving us with nearly a full day to wander, explore, eat and try to stay awake. Antarctica was more than just an extraordinary piece of geography, it was an experience that recalibrated my sense of scale, silence and significance. The landscapes were vast beyond comprehension, the wildlife felt impossibly intimate and the stillness lingered long after the gear was returned and the seasickness faded. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Blog : Read this account of the same cruise, from a different year, for more history and logistical information. Accommodations : Antarctica is remote. Nobody lives there year-round. There are super expensive options where you can fly in and stay on the ice for a short period, but for most travelers, you eat, sleep and explore from your cruise ship. Landings are made using zodiacs. Ships : There are many options. I recommend choosing a ship with fewer than 200 passengers to maximize your time on land, since there are limits on how many people can visit each site at once. Embarkation : The primary gateways to Antarctica are Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, with South America being the closest and most popular launch point. Cost : Antarctica is not a budget destination. Expect to pay at least $8,000 USD per person for the ship alone. Flights, gear and extras will be added on top of that. Tips : Gratuities for the housekeeping and expedition teams came to £710 for the three people on my trip. Fuel Surcharge : We were warned this might apply, but it didn’t. Some travelers report being hit with a hefty fee at the end of their trip, so it’s best to ask in advance. Currency : Our ship operated in USD; other ships may vary. Electricity : Our ship used 110V with US plugs. Check your own ship’s requirements ahead of time. Visas : No country owns Antarctica, so there’s no passport control there. You may still require visas for the country you depart from. Always check ahead of time. IAATO : The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators governs Antarctic tourism to ensure safe and environmentally responsible practices. Strict biosecurity rules apply - you cannot kneel, crouch nor sit on the ground in most areas, and no food is allowed ashore. Leave nothing behind but footprints; bring nothing home but memories! Mobile Service and Wi-Fi : There is no mobile service; coverage ends in the Beagle Channel. Wi-Fi onboard was limited, with a small daily allowance and was generally poor. On our ship, there was a special Wi-Fi on the 5th deck, specifically for the Ukrainian passengers, that worked very well once you had the secret login details. Accessibility : This kind of travel isn’t for everyone. Zodiac landings can be tricky, with uneven surfaces, deep snow, and slippery rocks. Hikes on land were often steep, slippery, and challenging. Landscape : Antarctica is mountainous. It’s the highest, coldest and driest continent - a true polar desert. Weather : Summer can be surprisingly bright and warm. Many people got sunburned, so sunscreen and sunglasses are a must. But it can also be cold and windy, so thermal and waterproof layers are also essential. White Lights : From roughly November through March, the sun remains above the horizon, creating 'white nights' with light around the clock, particularly near the solstice. Seasickness : Once you reach Antarctica, the seas are calm but getting there can be rough. I wore half a Scopolamine patch, each way, through the Drake Passage. They can have scary side effects, so consider carefully. Penguins : On land, penguins have no natural predators so are therefore not afraid of humans. Maintain at least a 5-meter distance but be prepared for them to wander into your space. Lectures : Onboard expedition leaders run educational and fascinating lectures throughout the trip. Food : Three meals a day: breakfast and lunch are buffets, and most dinners were ordered from an extensive menu. Room service was also available for seasick passengers. Allergies : Oddly, I had hay fever in Antarctica, though I can’t imagine what triggered it. Some penguins were sneezing too, so maybe they suffer from allergies as well. PACKING LIST For a full, detailed packing list, check out Adventurous Kate’s guide . Keep in mind that you’ll change multiple times per day on excursion days, so plan on layers and quick-access items. Some things that I highly recommend are below: Essentials Passport Evidence of travel insurance Cruise paperwork Wallet Credit cards / cash Air Tags (lifesaver if your bags get lost!) Suitcase lock Extra luggage tags Pen Health & Medication Prescriptions First aid kit Scopolamine patches for seasickness Vitamins Toiletries & Personal Care All your usual toiletries Face sunscreen (don’t forget to apply it under your nose & chin as the ice reflects sunlight) Lip balm with SPF Eye drops & hand cream for dryness Laundry detergent sheets Earplugs Tissues Hand & foot warmers (foot warmers are better because they stick, so they won't get dropped) Electronics iPhone / mobile iPad / tablet Chargers & adapters Long charging cords Back-up mobile charger Headphones Camera, lenses, batteries, SD cards, filters Clothing Undergarments: underwear, bras, sports bras Socks: thermal, liner, wool, ankle 2x PJs Thermals / base layers Waterproof Pants Snow Pants Waterproof jacket Uniqlo puffy jacket Hats (warmth + sun protection) Waterproof gloves & glove liners Gaiter / neck warmer 2x sunglasses + strap (so they're easy to take on and off for photography) Yoga / comfy clothes for downtime Insoles for muck boots Sturdy, comfy shoes for around the ship Waterproof hiking boots Special Occasion & Fun Christmas attire (hat, sweater) Dress-up outfit for Captain’s Night (optional) Playing cards / games / books Bags Small day bag for onboard use Waterproof bag for cruises & landings Bag for dirty laundry Ziplock bags for electronics and wet items

From one of the quietest places on Earth to one of South America’s loudest celebrations, Chile snapped the world back into focus. Glaciers gave way to graffiti. Santiago welcomed me with mountains and the vibrance of a big city, and before I could fully thaw, Valparaíso had me counting down to New Year’s Eve under a sky primed for fireworks. If Antarctica  felt like a dream; Chile made sure I woke up fast. SANTIAGO With just two nights in the city, we didn’t attempt to see Santiago in full. Instead, we settled into Barrio Italia charming, bohemian neighborhood centered around Avenida Italia. It was a hub for design, art, food and antiques, where historic houses have been converted into artisan shops, boutiques, galleries and inventive restaurants. ACCOMODATION: We stayed in a small but stylish boutique hotel founded by a pair of local women, set within a classic early-20th-century house and offering just eight rooms. Featured in the Michelin Hotel Guide, Maison Italia 1029 was an absolute delight. The rooms were beautifully designed, and most were equipped with charming little terraces, perfect for quiet moments amid the city. DO: I highly recommend taking a day trip into the Andes . We booked what was meant to be an eight-hour private excursion, which happily stretched into ten with our lovely guide, JJ. The day took us through Cajón del Maipo, up to a San José de Maipo volcano lookout where horses grazed beneath, and on to Parque Valle del Yeso/El Yeso Dam, which was stunning, windswept and dramatic. We also stopped to see a glacier perched atop a mountain. Instead of a picnic, we shared freshly made empanadas from a local farm, which was an unexpected highlight. CONSUME: Tio Tomate : Just near our hotel, this cozy spot was a lucky find for a late lunch. The salmon and tuna ceviche were light, fresh and just enough to tide us over until dinner. Lusitano : Hidden in a small galería off Avenida Italia, this Portuguese restaurant was simple perfection. Slow-cooked brisket, seafood with rice, and sangria were all beautifully executed and refreshingly inexpensive. Casaluz : This gem felt like a New York bistro with a touch of Cartagena-style décor. The warm, inviting atmosphere, seasonal dishes, and delightful bar made it a memorable spot for dinner. VALPARAISO From Santiago, a private transfer carried us west, leaving the mountains behind and following the road toward the sea. Two hours later, we arrived in a city completely different from the capital. Valparaíso announced itself with fog, stacked hills and shabby-chic facades. The city was an exercise in graffiti maximalism, every inch clad in tags, scrawls and murals. STAY: Valparaíso is one of the most famous, and busiest, places in South America to celebrate New Year’s Eve, which means accommodations book up fast. Book early. We didn’t. By the time we finally reserved a room, options were limited. We ended up at Hotel Boutique 17 . It w as perfectly fine, but not especially memorable. The real advantage was its location, in the heart of Cerro Concepción. If I were to do it again, I’d aim for the nearby Hotel Brighton . Perched on one of the oldest and most traditional hills in Valpo, next to the Atkinson Promenade, it stood out immediately. Set in a Victorian-style building, the hotel felt distinctive and romantic. NEW YEAR'S EVE: Hours slipped away as we wandered the streets, every alley and stairway revealing fresh, vibrant layers of street art. As New Year’s Eve approached, the city’s energy began to shift. The quiet thrill of wandering alleys gave way to a hum of anticipation. Disco balls sparkled, stages were erected in plazas, and streets seemed to pulse with the promise of the night ahead. By nightfall, Valparaíso had transformed into a living celebration, ready to ring in the New Year in full cheer and chaos. Rather than joining the crowds in the streets, we celebrated from our hotel, enjoying a three-course meal on the terrace with a front-row view of the city’s fireworks. The cold and fog muted some of the spectacle, but bursts of color still cut through the mist over the harbor. NEW YEAR'S DAY: Many places were closed on New Year’s Day, so we grabbed an Uber and headed to Concón. We had a blast climbing the dunes and watching the city’s edges seemingly sink into the sand. CONSUME: Rosmarino: This charming, old home–turned–restaurant impressed us with impeccable service and even better machas (a beloved Chilean seafood delicacy of surf clams baked with parmesan cheese). The ceviche was also fantastic. Inquilino: Another perfect spot for ceviche and machas, with the added bonus of sweeping views of the bay that made the meal as much about the scenery as the food. La Concepción : For a top-rated dinner, consider this restaurant, featured on the 50 Best list. Housed in a mansion built in 1880, with a charming garden terrace, it served up gourmet Chilean and international dishes. Weather permitting, reserve a table on the terrace for sea views. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Airport Receipt : When entering Chile by plane, you’ll receive a small but important document called the Tourist Card ( Tarjeta de Turismo ). This slip proved your legal entry, was essential for avoiding hotel VAT, and must be presented when you exit the country. Keep it safe with your passport, as you’ll need to return it at immigration upon departure. Visa : I did not need a visa to visit Chile, but, as always, check in advance, as requirements can change and visas vary by nationality. Safety : We felt perfectly safe, but many locals and fellow travelers had advised us to be mindful of our belongings. In Santiago, this was especially important around the downtown area (Plaza de Armas and the central market), while in Valparaíso, the warning applied everywhere, particularly with the crowds that flocked to the city for New Year’s. Wildfires : Wildfires are common in Chile during their summer months, due to high temperatures and dry weather. Supper Time : Chileans eat later and heavier than Brazilians, but unlike Argentinians, dinner doesn’t stretch into the middle of the night. Tipping : A 10% tip is usually included automatically on restaurant bills, so no need to calculate extra unless you want to reward exceptional service. Currency : Chile uses the Chilean Peso (CLP), though US dollars are often accepted, especially in tourist spots. Weather : While Santiago sizzled in proper summer heat, Valparaíso greeted us with cool, misty mornings. Layers were a must!

Japan’s reputation as a world-class honeymoon destination is gathering pace - and not just because of the accelerating slide in the value of their yen. The Land of the Rising Sun is a country where the combination of ancient tradition and ultra modernity provides countless opportunities for romantic moments. It's an intoxicating location for newlyweds looking to explore somewhere unfamiliar and have a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Japan oozes with vibrance, charisma, craftsmanship, punctuality and social harmony. There’s very little that this country doesn’t do just a little bit better than everywhere else: food, design, trains, hospitality, cocktails, knives, whisky and even denim! It's a wacky, wild and fascinating place that’s simultaneously safe, approachable and welcoming. Quick Links: Tokyo Accommodation Shibuya Shinjuku Minato, Chiyoda & Ginza Ryogoku, Akihabara & Ochanomizu Bunkyo Nakano Asakusa Kyoto Accommodation Do/See Eat/Drink Osaka One day itinerary Hakone Accommodation Know Before You Go   Helpful information TOKYO Japan's capital is the country's beating heart and, in a lot of ways, a model city - the people are polite, crime rates are low, public transport is extensive and efficient, the streets are clean and pedestrian-friendly, car horns are used sparingly and there is a strong focus on sustainability and smart city initiatives. What really gives Tokyo an edge though is its thirst for novelty. This megacity is the land of endless discovery with its futuristic facade, immersive digital art installations, zany restaurant concepts and eccentric fashion. Tokyo offers a sensory overload that's as exciting as it is unusual. It is the largest metropolitan area in the world, made up of 37+ million people and 23 'special wards' (municipalities), each with its own distinct charm and attractions. To make the most of this expansive urban sprawl, I suggest basing yourself somewhere well connected and grouping sightseeing by district(s) each day. ACCOMMODATION: One of the few things that I was not impressed by in Japan was the hotels, particularly at their distorted market rates . They were all clean and mostly comfortable, but very small and basic. In Tokyo, we stayed at the Shibuya Stream Hotel , which was conveniently located within a mixed-use skyscraper, with an event hall, 30 restaurants/bars and office space (Google occupied floors 14-35). It was directly connected to the C2 exit of Shibuya Station on the subway/Tokyu lines and to JR Shibuya Station's new south exit, making it very easy to get around. I wouldn't necessarily recommend the hotel, but I would suggest staying in Shibuya if you're a first-time visitor. SHIBUYA: Shibuya is a bustling district known for fashion, entertainment, culture and commerce. Do/See: Hachikō Statue: Every evening, an Akita Inu dog (named Hachikō) would wait for his owner at Shibuya Station. Even after his master's death, the dog continued to wait every day, for ten years, until his own passing. The small bronze statue is now a symbol of devotion and commemorates the dog's unwavering loyalty. Shibuya Scramble Crossing: The world’s busiest pedestrian intersection sees up to 3,000 people crossing per green light (every 80 seconds). An estimated 1.5 million people cross the street here each week. It's incredible how smooth and orderly the flow of pedestrians is, despite the volume of foot traffic. Shibuya Sky : This 46-floor observation deck normally provides spectacular sights of the area with a 360° view. The day we went, however, was grey and rainy and visibility was terrible. Buy tickets in advance to skip the line. If the weather isn't nice when you've booked, you can opt to receive a refund. Eat/Drink: Gyoza no Ohsho (literally the 'King of Gyoza'): The specialty is crisp, delicious dumplings, sold six pieces per plate, for just 240 yen (~£1.22). Reservations are not accepted. Han no Daidokoro Bettei Shibuya Branch : Offers sumptuous yakiniku (Japanese BBQ), serving two of Japan's finest cuts of beef: Kobe and Yamagata. Book in advance. Din Tai Fung Shibuya Scramble Square : This popular Taiwanese dim sum chain restaurant is located one floor below the Shibuya Sky. The signature dish is xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) and they are as good as everyone says. The SG Club - Featured on The World's 50 Best list, this sexy bar is a fine place to sip or guzzle a fancy cocktail. SHINJUKU: Considered by many to be the city center of present-day Tokyo. It's a lively and crowded district, with the world's busiest train station. This major commercial and administrative area, by day, becomes a vivid entertainment district at night. Do/See: 3D Cat Billboard: Installed in 2021, this billboard has gained Internet stardom and won a bunch of design/advertising awards. The calico cat appears on the screen between various other advertisements throughout the day. It also materializes for a longer animation sequence once every 15 minutes. It is a point of interest on Google Maps, making it easy to find, but using the East Exit gates at Shinjuku Station will help you find it quicker. Godzilla Head: This prominent landmark has been located atop the Shinjuku Toho Building since 2015. The statue's eyes light up and it roars and emits smoke every hour from 12pm to 8pm.  Samurai Restaurant : This is a hyper-stimulated cabaret show that is a bit gimmicky and tacky but also entertaining. If you want a neon-lit, pop culture, 'only-in-Tokyo' smack in the face, this is the show for you. It features a variety of cultural cliches including samurai vs ninja sword battles, dancers in revealing samurai armor, shrine maidens and demon-themed floats. I suggest securing tickets in advance, so you don't risk a sellout. Be sure to bring your passport/ID (a digital copy is okay) as the staff will verify that you’re 18+. Eat/Drink: Golden-Gai: Comprised of 290 tiny bars squeezed into a network of six alleyways, this is a bar-hopping paradise for people who enjoy an intimate nightlife atmosphere. T he buildings are just a few feet wide and can only fit five or so customers at a time. Most are two-stories, having a small bar at street level and another upstairs, reached by a steep set of steps. A few establishments discouraged tourists with 'no foreigners' signs, but most were welcoming. We particularly liked Plage and Open Book . Omoide Yokocho: Known as 'Memory Lane', this nostalgic alleyway houses roughly 80 bite-sized izakaya (taverns) and yakitori (grilled skewers) joints serving some of the best street food in Japan. It had its roots in the chaotic period just after WWII when, amid the rubble and rebuilding of Tokyo, a bustling black market sprung up with vendors selling hard-to-obtain food, drinks and daily necessities. Over time, these makeshift stalls have evolved into more permanent eateries. MINATO, CHIYODA & GINZA: These three adjacent areas are often associated with high-end residences, business headquarters, politics, luxury and designer boutiques. Do/See: teamLabs Borderless : A world of interactive digital artwork installations without a map. The concept is to immerse you in one continuous world, without boundaries. Buy tickets in advance, go early in the AM and don’t wear a short dress/skirt because the floors are mirrored in many of the rooms. Tokyo Tower : Inspired by the Eiffel Tower, this structure stands 333 meters tall and was the tallest freestanding tower in the world when completed, in 1958. From the highest viewing deck, you can see Mt. Fuji on a clear day. Atago Shrine: This was not on my original itinerary, but I when noticed that the Imperial Palace was closed on Mondays, I had to pivot and this shrine was walking distance from the Tokyo Tower. After climbing the 86 'stone steps to success', we were rewarded with a tranquil environment where locals come to pray for professional success. Eat/Drink: Ginza Kagari : Nestled in a back alley of the Ginza district, you'll find this ramen gem. It is globally renowned and draws long lines of visitors from all over the world. First, you'll need to wait in the queue to the right of the front door. When it's your turn, you'll order and pay (credit card only). They will give you a receipt and then you must queue in the line to the left of the door to wait to be seated. The signature dish is Tori Paitan - a rich, creamy chicken-based broth made by simmering whole chicken and chicken bones for hours and it's worth the wait! Mint Ginza Rooftop : Located at the top of the Tokyu Plaza Ginza, this casual all-day cafe/bar is surrounded by greenery and skyline views. Bar High Five : This basement venue in glitzy Ginza has no menu. The bartenders ask for your preferred flavor profile and then whip something up for you. The combination of Japanese bartending techniques plus modified classic recipes has resulted in High Five being a regular in the World’s 50 Best list. The bar’s notoriety and small size means it is often busy and that you’ll likely encounter more Westerners than locals. JBA Bar Suzuki : Upstairs from Bar High Five, you'll find another famous bar that was founded in 1967 by the president of the Japan Bartenders’ Association (J.B.A.). The bar is traditional, modern and sophisticated, with a wide array of whiskies, a selection of original cocktails and jazz playing in the background. Sanshuya Ginza : This izakaya (tavern) is tucked away in a small alley in Ginza. They specialize in seafood and beer. It was an authentic and affordable, no-frills sort of place filled with locals and old-school charm. Nobody spoke any English. Several waitresses, speaking at the same time, in Japanese, told us what we would have and then dishes promptly started arriving. RYOGOKU, AKIHABARA & OCHANOMIZU: Each of these three neighborhoods are located just a few minutes apart on the JR Chūō-Sōbu Line. Ryogoku is renowned for its connection to sumo; Akihabara for its electronics and anime and Ochanomizu is a popular district fo r bargain-conscious musicians and sportsmen. Do/See: Ryogoku Sumo Morning Practice Session : This tour allowed us to experience and appreciate the history and tradition of Japan's national sport by observing a morning training session at the Tokitsukaze stable . The tour was supposed to be two hours, but ended up being only about an hour, which was fine because we had to sit on the floor and be silent for the duration. There was a whole heap of rules (no shoes, no pointing bare feet at wrestlers, no talking, no sitting in the front row, no videoing, no eating/drinking) out of respect for the athletes. Akihabara Electric Town: Affectionately known as Akiba , this area of the city is famous for its densely packed buildings crammed full of anime, manga and gaming paraphernalia. It's a must-go spot for visitors who want to bask in geeky otaku culture. Guitar Street: This street, near Ochanomizu Station, is famous for new/used guitars and other musical gear. We ended up here to kill some time before the baseball game. Despite not being musically inclined, it was fun to walk around and look at all the pretty guitars. Eat/Drink: Syabu-Yō atre Akihabara 2 : Hidden on the 4th floor of the food hall outside Akihabara station, you'll need to hunt to find this place. Once you find this shabu shabu (Japanese hot pot) restaurant, seat yourself, order on the iPad and begin your 100-minute all-you-can-eat and drink session. A human will serve your broths, but your meats will be delivered by a cat-faced robot. Get all your drinks, veggies, noodles and sauces at the buffet. Finally, pay at the front counter. BUNKYO: Bunkyo is home to some of Tokyo's most important historical shrines and culturally significant gardens and landscapes, as well as the ultra-modern Tokyo Dome. Do/See: Baseball : If you can, I highly recommend catching a ball game at the very cool, indoor Tokyo Dome stadium. We watched the Yomiuri Giants annihilate the Chunichi Dragons 8 to 1, alongside 41,402 other fans. All Japan Pro-Wrestling : Located next to the Tokyo Dome, Kōrakuen Hall is a popular venue for professional wrestling, boxing and Mixed Martial Arts. We saw the Champion Carnival 2025 match. It was lively and loud and a whole lot of fun. NAKANO: This special ward is a popular spot for ramen and exploring retro Tokyo. Do/See: Nakano Broadway: This is a somewhat old-fashioned-looking mall where the top floors were claimed by anime/manga shops in the early eighties. Businesses here are generally small and focus on selling second-hand anime items, but you'll also find some impressive watch shops, like Jackroad , selling rare vintage timepieces and pet shops selling the tiniest of kittens and puppies. Additionally, there’s a vending machine selling insect snacks. Rumor has it that there’s a gachapon machine selling worn panties hidden somewhere in the complex, but I cannot confirm this. The alleys around Nakano Broadway are worth some time as well - they’re narrow and a bit dingy, with power cables running between buildings like vines, but there are plenty of cozy bars and restaurants to enjoy. ASAKUSA: Asakusa, often referred to as Old Tokyo, is known for its traditional atmosphere that transports you back in time. Do/See: Tokyo Skytree : This broadcasting and observation tower has been the tallest tower in Japan since opening in 2012. Given that we had already gone up the Shibuya Sky and the Tokyo Tower, we decided to skip the experience. I hear it's particularly beautiful in the evening though. Nakamise Street: The most famous shopping street in Asakusa runs for 250 meters on the main approach to Sensō-ji Temple and is lined on both sides with shops selling traditional souvenirs, snacks and sweets. Sensō-ji Temple : The oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo, dating back to AD 645. It draws visitors from around the world to admire its lavish main hall and imposing gates. It is considered a must-see on any visit to Tokyo, which also means it's completely overrun with tourists. Kappabashi Kitchen Street: About a 15-minute walk from the Sensō-ji Temple area, you'll find 160 shops selling everything from high-end Japanese knives, plastic food samples, crockery and other kitchen-related goods. Eat/Drink: Noura : The most famous French restaurant in Asakusa is Hommage , which has earned two Michelin stars. Affiliated with and located right behind Hommage is Noura which literally means 'behind'. On the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand list, Noura is a great little French bistro, which is a more casual and affordable experience than Hommage. Vineria Il Passaggio: This cozy, cash only wine bar serves its natural and organic wines in seashells. KYOTO From Tokyo Station, we took the Tokaido Shinkansen Line to Kyoto Station. With speeds up to 200 MPH, the bullet train took only two hours and fifteen minutes. We opted for the Mount Fuji seats (seats D & E) so we'd have a chance of seeing the majestic snow-capped volcano about 40-minutes into the journey. Make sure to reserve luggage when you book your train tickets, if you have oversized suitcases (bigger than a carry-on bag). Unlike Tokyo's fast-pace, neon lights and skyscapers, Kyoto is more calm and tranquil, with its network of alleyways, gardens, temples, traditional architecture, mountains and forests. ACCOMMODATION: Although Kyoto is roughly a third of the size of Tokyo, it's still quite large and choosing where you want to stay is a big decision. We opted for convenience and tradition over luxury and ended up at Kyoto Granbell Hotel in the Gion District ( renowned as being one of the most iconic and atmospheric areas of town). I would highly recommend the location, but maybe not the hotel. DO/SEE: Explore Gion: K nown for its traditional wooden machiya houses, narrow alleyways, cobblestone streets and preservation of geisha (AKA geiko) culture. Lining the main street are ochayas (teahouses where geishas/geikos entertain), small shops and countless tiny eateries and bars. Gion Corner Show : This 50-minute show at the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theater provides an opportunity to enjoy several traditional performing arts on one stage. The program includes a tea ceremony, music, flower arrangement, dance and comedy. If you opt for premium seats, you'll get a digital tablet with additional information and English translations. Fushimi-Inari Taisha Shrine : We got up at 5am to get to the shrine just before 6am, to beat the crowds. We were rewarded with a peaceful and spiritual experience. The shrine is made up of thousands of vermilion torii gates lining a path leading up Mount Inari. Each gate has been donated by individuals or companies as an offering to the shrine. The names and dates of the donations are inscribed on the back of the gates. Nishiki Market : This narrow, five-block-long marketplace in downtown Kyoto is lined with more than 100 stalls/restaurants and was insanely overcrowded. It was so packed that we couldn't stop anywhere nor try anything. According to Lonely Planet and the Japan National Tourism Organization, the best time to visit is between 10:00 and 11:00 AM, right when it opens. Shūsui-tei Teahouse: This historical landmark was built about 200 years ago and is located in the southwest corner of the beautiful I mperial Palace Park. Arashiyama Bamboo Forest: This is another one of Kyoto's top spots and is best to visit early in the AM, before the crowds. We arrived at 7am. The trail through the beautiful bamboo grove is short (only 0.3 miles one-way), but it's an enchanting and magical experience! Kameyama-koen Park (next door to the Bamboo Forest): From the top, you will be able to enjoy excellent views of the Arashiyama Mountains and the Hozugawa River. Afterward, walk down to the Katsuragawa River. Kimono Forest of Arashiyama : The lesser-known forest in Arashiyama is not actually a forest at all, but rather a colorful art installation. At the Kimono Forest, you'll find a collection of 600 clear acrylic cylinders, each standing 2 meters tall, wrapped with vibrant kimono fabrics. It’s recommended to visit at dusk so you can see the pillars illuminated by LED lights. Sagano Romantic Train : This sightseeing train line runs along the Hozugawa River, between Arashiyama and Kameoka. The charming, old-fashioned train winds its way through the mountains at a slow pace, taking about 25 minutes to make the seven-kilometer journey and giving passengers beautiful scenic views. One of the ways to get back from Kameoka to Arashiyama is to take a river cruise , which is what we intended to do, but it was too windy and cold for a two-hour boat ride, so instead we took a quick train. Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama : An amazing chance to get close to cute, free-roaming snow monkeys (Japanese macaques). You must buy tickets at the gate; they can't be bought in advance. It'll cost you 800 yen per adult, to be paid in cash. EAT/DRINK: Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera Kyoto : This is a sushi bar, where the sushi is served on a conveyor belt. The restaurant offers a variety of sushi and other dishes, with a focus on fresh ingredients and a fun atmosphere. Mouriya Gion : This restaurant served up some of the best Kobe beef in Japan, Teppanyaki style. It was, by far, the most expensive meal we had on our honeymoon, but was well worth it. We had top-notch service, premium food and a cozy ambiance. Gion Duck Rice: This restaurant features a unique emoji-based menu, and the whole setup was more like a science experiment than a lunch. Lots of explaining was necessary, which the staff handled well, with great English. The rice was covered with a generous layer of low-temperature cooked duck and served with three spices (grape sansho, yuzu and homemade black shichimi). The broth for ochazuke (rice with green tea) is made by boiling bonito by yourself using a dripper. The food and sake were a delight. Giro Giro Hitoshina : A non-traditional kaiseki (multi-course dinner emphasizing seasonal ingredients) restaurant offering with only kaunta seki (counter) seating around an open kitchen. I had no idea what I was eating but most of it was delicious. You must book in advance. Pontocho Kappa Sushi : Located on one of the cutest alleyways in Kyoto, Pontocho, this sushi restaurant was a great find - yummy, fresh and affordable. Kyoto Gion Okaru: A low-key udon restaurant in Gion popular with local geiko (geishas) and maiko (geishas in training). It's cheap and good. They do not take reservations and there is often a queue. enen Gyoza: Be prepared for the whole staff at this tiny eatery to simultaneously greet you with a hearty irasshai (welcome) when you enter. Also, the gyoza is awesome! Hirobun Nagashi Somen (flowing noodles): We took a taxi to Hirobun in Kibune, Kyoto, but it is possible to take the train. From 1st May to the end of September, you can enjoy the cold noodle flowing from a bamboo chute, between 11am and 4pm, on days when it's not raining. First you need to wait in a line to get a number and pay 2,000 yen each, in cash. Then you'll go down the stairs to a lower waiting area, where you'll have to remove your shoes and sit on a mat. When your number matches the number on the blackboard, you'll move to the upper deck waiting area (also a shoe-off area). 10 people catch noodles at a time, for 15 minutes. There is a 5-minute gap between groups for cleaning and setting up. You have your own lane, based on where you're seated. The noodles come out slow enough to catch in your chopsticks but frequently, so eat quickly. (THISIS)SHIZEN : The prettiest ice cream in Kyoto - possibly the world! This place has gained popularity because of its artistic ice cream cones which resemble intricate flower bouquets. The flower choices change seasonally. Bar Alchemist : If you can find this speakeasy, hidden behind a bookshelf, then you'll be in for a treat. The atmosphere is cozy and the bartenders are skilled and attentive. Rinken : We stumbled across this tiny bar accidentally, but were delighted to meet Master Ken, who amused us with his charm and cheeky banter and provided recommendations as well as a history lesson. The bar could only hold about seven patrons at a time and space is limited that each seat had its own door. Hello Dolly : Amongst the many bars and restaurants in the historic Pontocho alleyway, you'll find this darling, dark jazz and whisky joint overlooking the Kamo River. UE Rooftop Bar: If it's a nice day and you want some views or a nice evening and you want to experience a sunset, then UE Rooftop is the spot. OSAKA If Tokyo is the brain of Japan and Kyoto is the heart, then Osaka is the stomach. Known as 'Japan's kitchen', Osaka is home to mouth-watering seafood and other delicacies . Unfortunately, we only spent one day in Osaka, which was not nearly enough to even scratch the surface but below are the highlights that I recommend for a one-day visit. If you're visiting Osaka, from Kyoto, on a holiday or a weekend, I advise taking the Kyo-Train Garaku , operated by Hankyu Railway. Each carriage of this elegant train is decorated with a beautiful, seasonal motif. Leaving out of the Kyoto-kawaramachi station and arriving at Osaka-umeda, the journey takes about 45-minutes one way. In Kyoto, the train departs from track 2, which appears between tracks 1 & 3 if you keep walking, like something out of Harry Potter. Arrive early to get a window-facing bench seat in either car 3 & 4. You can't pre-book and seats are all unreserved. Passengers pay the standard fare that they would between the two cities and can use their normal travel card (Suica, IC, etc.) for this special train. Umeda is Osaka's business district. Walk about 10-minutes from Osaka-umeda Station to the Umeda Sky Building . The Kuchu Teien Observatory connects the East and West Towers on the 39th, 40th and rooftop floors. Take in the Osaka cityscape with a bird’s-eye view from the 360-degree open air rooftop. After, walk to Osaka Station, take the JR Osaka Loop Line to Osakajokoen Station and walk another 20 minutes to Osaka Castle. This castle is one of Japan's most famous and historic landmarks and played a major role in the unification of Japan during the sixteenth century. Osaka Castle Park, surrounding the castle, provides citizens and visitors with a peaceful haven in the middle of the bustling city. Retrace your steps back to Osakajokoen Station, jump back on the JR Loop Line (make sure you're heading in the correct direction) and alight at Shin-Imamiya Station, which will land you in the Shinsekai District. Allow Google Maps to direct you to Janjan Yokocho Alley, which is one of Osaka's more colorful, energetic and chaotic neighborhoods. After you get your fill of bright lights, lanterns, oversized buddhas, retro signboards and life-sized food displays head back to Shin-Imamiya Station, take the Nankai-Koya Line to Namba Station and explore Dotonbori, Osaka’s entertainment district. Make your way to Shin-Osaka Station to take the Tokaido Shinkansen train back to Kyoto (last train is 10:30pm I believe), which takes about 13 minutes. Note that this bullet train leaves and arrives at different stations than the Kyo-Train Garaku (Shin-Osaka station to Kyoto Station). I purchased non-reserved seat tickets, one-way, in advance, through SmartEx , which allowed us the flexibility to take any train. HAKONE The final stop on our Japan honeymoon tour was Hakone. Part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, less than one hundred kilometers from Tokyo, Hakone is a famous resort area full of onsen (natural hot springs) and known for its views of nearby Mount Fuji. You can get to Odawara (Hakone), from Kyoto Station, on a two-hour bullet train. It was absolutely pouring during our journey, which led to flooding on local train lines/streets and limited the number of available taxis/Ubers. We had to wait over an hour at the train station for a taxi to take us on the 40-minute journey to our hotel, Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu . This hotel was a sanctuary. All rooms have their own private open-air baths, there's free sparkling wine on tap, a heated footbath and they offer hair straighteners. The rate we paid included breakfast and dinner. The first night we enjoyed shabu shabu and the second was Teppanyaki - both delicious. I had intentions of doing some sightseeing, but our hotel was so lovely, and we were feeling quite zen, so we decided to just hang out for the final few days and rest up ahead of our 14.5-hour flight home. If we had one more full day, I'd have hired a driver to take us to around to the nearby cable car, Lake Ashi for a pirate ship cruise, and to see the Hakone Shrine and Chisuji Falls. I guess we'll just have to go back another time! Japan stands as an enigmatic paradise that captivates the soul and leaves an indelible mark on every traveler fortunate enough to step onto its shores. Exploring this breathtaking country is not just a journey; it's an awakening to the wonders of an entire universe within a single nation. What more could a couple ask for from a honeymoon destination!? KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Planning : This country has so many gems that you couldn’t uncover them all on multiple trips. My advice is to admit defeat before you even start and recognize that you can't do everything. Pick what's most important and create an itinerary from there. Reservations : Spontaneity is fun, but many things need to be pre-booked in Japan or else you're likely to miss out or spend much of your time waiting in queues. I found that I could only book restaurants, shows, trains and other tickets between two weeks and one month in advance. Also, I had to pre-pay, at time of booking, for most of our reservations. Operating Hours : When planning, pay attention to opening hours. Many places are closed at least one day a week - some on Mondays, some on Wednesdays. We found that most bars didn’t open until 5pm and many restaurants are closed 2-6pm. Airports : If you can, I suggest arriving at Haneda Airport (HND), rather than Narita (NRT), as it is much more convenient. Arrival into Japan : I pre-registered our trip, online , so we could scan a QR code instead of having to fill out the customs/landing forms (instructions for setting your account up are here ) . After you land and deplane, you'll line up for immigration. About halfway through the queue we used the kiosks for customs declaration and verification (follow the instructions on the screen). After immigration, we collected our suitcases at baggage claim and then cruised through customs with facial recognition. Airport Transfers : I arranged car service to/from the airport, both ways. I used Booking.com upon arrival into Tokyo and Blacklane for our departure from Hakone. Both were smooth and easy processes. Plugs : The outlets are the same as they are in the US, but voltage is different, so you might not need a plug adaptor, but you might need a converter. Japan's standard voltage is 100V, compared to North America (120V) and most of Europe (230 V). My UK nor US hair straightener would work at all. I suggest bringing a cordless one or buying one there. Tipping : They don’t tip, and you shouldn’t try. It’s not secretly charming, it’s awkward and makes people uncomfortable. Trash : For a clean city, Japan has surprisingly few public garbage bins. This is because people carry their trash home and sort it properly, following Japan’s strict recycling rules. Reading : In traditional Japanese writing, text is typically read vertically, from top to bottom, and then right to left, with each new column starting on the left. Slurping Noodles : Unlike in many other cultures, slurping your noodles loudly in Japan is a sign of enjoyment and appreciation for the meal! Fake Food Displays : Replica food is a billion-yen industry in Japan. Many restaurants use sampuru (realistic plastic food models) to show customers what the dishes look like before they order. Expect the Unexpected : You can walk into a subway station and find a Michelin-star restaurant. Many cool bars and intimate restaurants are tucked away on various floors within office buildings. In the US or UK, it would feel like you were getting your teeth cleaned or visiting your accountant, but in Japan 'office bars' are quite common. Getting Around : One of the biggest hurdles for first-time travelers is Tokyo’s railway system. Thankfully, each station has signs in English, and Google Maps is very reliable - it even tells you the platform, which carriage to be in, entrances/exits and prices. Add Suica card to your Apple wallet ahead of time (start with 3k JPY). To use Suica, you don’t even need to double tap/use face recognition, just tap it on many lines/special trains across Japan, not just in Tokyo. You cannot use it on the bullet trains though. Taxis : You can set up GO taxi hailing app, once you have arrived in Japan. Or you can just use Uber, which is what I opted for. Escalator Etiquette :  In Tokyo, people stand on the left and walk on the right, while in Osaka, it’s the opposite! Change Purse : As Japan is largely still a cash-based society, although many places are cashless entirely as well, bring a change purse. You'll end up with lots of coins. ATMs : 7-11 (7 Bank) is the best for fee-free ATM withdrawals. Language & Customs : Everyone is so friendly and helpful, but English is a challenge and not widely spoken. People generally bow instead of shaking hands. Bowing also means “thank you” and “sorry.” Making an X with fingers or arms means 'no, we’re closed' or 'there are no seats available'. Greetings & Good Byes : Most restaurants in Japan will greet you with a loud irasshai ( welcome) that will be echoed by the entire staff. This happens when you leave too, with arigatou gozaimashita (thank you for coming). At some shops, the staff will walk you all the way out of the building. Cover Charges : Many bars, terraces, and some restaurants will charge a fee of 300-700 yen per person. Golden Week : This is a collection of four Japanese national holidays that occur within a seven-day period in late April and early May. It is one of the busiest travel periods in Japan. Expect more crowded transportation, fully booked accommodations and higher prices. Bookings are necessary for trains, hotels and attractions. Footwear : Wear socks and make sure they don't have holes. You'll have to take shoes off in a lot of places (bars/restaurants/sumo/anywhere with tatami mats ) and bare feet are considered rude as are flip flops. Vending Machines : They're everywhere. Every street corner has one, and there are even some on hiking trails, near shrines and even at other locales where food/drink are forbidden! Apart from selling your regular cans of soda, in Japanese vending machines you can find anything from ties and pizzas to eggs, canned bread and wigs for dogs.

Traveling is about more than just seeing new places; it’s about expanding your culinary canvas, tasting flavors and experiencing cultures, one dish at a time. There are restaurants all over the world successfully combining palate and palette. In no particular order, below is my shortlist for eateries that are as beautiful and memorable as they are mouth-watering. Manda de Laos in Luang Prabang, Laos - Dine day or night, surrounded by a UNESCO-classified lotus pond. You'll feel immersed in a tropical fairy-tale. The Laotian family cuisine is as delectable as the ambience, making this a truly special spot. La Plongeoir in Nice, France - This restaurant, situated on two pillars of rock, occupies an iconic location in the French Riviera. Enjoy fresh, locally-sourced, gourmet, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine whilst perched six meters above the sea. Grotto Palazzese in Polignano A Mare, Puglia, Italy - An exclusive, magical and enchanted space located within a natural cave, overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Although the food wasn't as good as it should have been for the price, the wine, live saxophone and cliffside atmosphere made up for it. Amante in Ibiza, Spain - This three-tiered hideaway haven captures the essence of Ibiza, with a modern, natural decor and dramatic views of Sol d'en Serra bay and Formentera. The award-winning kitchen produces exquisite food and the cocktails are amongst the best on the island. QP Bistro in St. James, Barbados - Nestled along the idyllic and picturesque West Coast of Barbados, this restaurant boasts magnificent views and lots of hanging plants. Go here to indulge in the perfect blend of gastronomy, Caribbean delights and live entertainment. Good food, good vibes. Hirobun in Kibune, Kyoto, Japan - From May to the end of September, this is the only restaurant in Kibune that offers nagashi somen (flowing noodles). Perched just above the river’s surface, you'll find this Insta-popular kawadoko (river dining) restaurant where you catch cold noodles with chopsticks as they float down a bamboo chute. It wasn't the most filling nor rich meal I've ever had, but it was one of the more fun and interactive ones. Dinner on Deck 5 of the M/V Sea Spirit , in Antarctica , with icebergs all around and whales cruising by, was the ultimate combination of adventure and indulgence. The BBQ was pretty darn good as well.

2025 was packed with unforgettable memories. Some of the greatest hits included honeymooning in Japan, waddling alongside penguins in the Great White South, finally ticking off a long-postponed road trip around Bulgaria, attending the Wimbledon men's finals and making serious progress toward becoming a dual citizen. It was truly a blockbuster year! Read on for the highlight reel. JANUARY Most of my January 1sts kick off the same way: groggy, dehydrated and boarding a flight home from wherever I rang in the New Year the previous night. This year I tried something completely different. I booked a solo spa break in Jersey (the Channel Island, not the US state), and spent 48 blissful hours doing very little, apart from being pampered. Wrapped in a robe, I rotated between massages, facials and saunas and let the weight of 2024 dissolve into steam and essential oils. I feasted on scallops and oysters and stockpiled sleep like it was currency. This ultra short-haul island escape left me clear-headed, relaxed, restored and rejuvenated for the year ahead. Colmar, France felt like stepping into a perfectly preserved fairy tale. With its storybook half-timbered houses, winding canals and quaint stone bridges, every corner of the town looked like it had leaped straight from a postcard. Colmar was an idyllic home base for exploring the Alsace region, especially if you appreciate charming accommodations, rich regional cuisine and world-class viticulture. FEBRUARY I was hoping for some winter sun when I headed down to Destin, but Mother Nature had other plans. Known for its sugar-white sand beaches, emerald-green waters and playful dolphins, this part of the Florida Panhandle didn’t disappoint. Despite the cooler temps and persistent precipitation, I had a wonderful time making memories with my family! MARCH It's hard to find a country with more love in it than Slovenia - literally. No other country has 'love' in its name. And this nation doesn’t just celebrate Valentine’s Day (February 14th), but also Lovers’ Day (March 12th). I visited over Lover's Day weekend and Slovenia's beautiful landscapes, charming villages, booming culinary scene, unique wines and hospitable population completely captured my heart. I was all set to surprise one of my closest friends at her engagement party in Washington, D.C., when a fire at Heathrow brought everything to a halt. The blaze knocked out power and shut down the entire airport for a full day, unleashing global travel chaos. I later found out the disruption cost British Airways a staggering $56 million. APRIL Half of April was spent honeymooning in Japan , an enigmatic paradise that captivates souls and leaves an unforgettable mark on every traveler fortunate enough to step onto its shores. Exploring this breathtaking country wasn't just a journey, it was an awakening to all of the nation's wonders and delights . Highly recommended as a honeymoon destination! MAY After five years of trying to make it happen, my Bulgaria road trip finally became a reality. COVID forced a cancellation initially, but then life kept throwing curveballs in the years that followed. Bulgaria was definitely worth the wait! It was a true Balkan gem, bursting with stunning landscapes that ranged from ancient rock formations and cascading waterfalls to quaint cities and pink lakes. JUNE June 21st wasn’t just the summer solstice this year, it was my friend’s bachelorette party in Paris, right in the middle of Fête de la Musique . The city was bursting at the seams, easily four times more crowded than usual, and the heat was no joke, but a great time was had by the whole gang! The following weekend was the wedding celebration, in Toulouse, France. It was a beautiful affair, held at a stunning château, filled with love, laughter and unforgettable memories. JULY Seeing the Wimbledon Men's Final was a true bucket list moment! And what a match!  Under the sweltering summer sun, Centre Court buzzed with energy. The crowd was on edge for every rally, rising to their feet as Jannik Sinner battled past Carlos Alcaraz in a thrilling rematch of their French Open showdown. The heat was intense, but the excitement was even hotter. A weekend in Porto, Portugal with my high school girlfriends was an absolute blast. We cruised along the Douro River, went wine tasting, feasted on incredible food, caught some live music and laughed for hours over old memories and new gossip. It was one of those trips that filled my heart (and my camera roll). AUGUST I remained in London all month, as I went through the process of applying for UK settlement. After eleven years of living here, my application for Indefinite Leave to Remain was approved, meaning I no longer required a visa to work in the country. It was an emotional, long-awaited milestone. Without hesitation, I submitted my application for British citizenship the very next day, ready to take the final step toward making the UK my permanent home. Spoiler:  My British citizenship application was approved in November, though I had to postpone the ceremony/getting my passport until January 2026. Although I didn’t travel abroad, I did treat myself to a countryside escape for a relaxing spa break. My friend and I enjoyed delicious meals, rejuvenating treatments and plenty of much-needed girlie time. SEPTEMBER I flew to Snowmass Village, Colorado, to celebrate the wedding of one of my nearest and dearest friends. The high altitude and dramatic shifts in temperature certainly kept things interesting, but nothing could dampen the joy of the occasion. We hiked through the stunning Maroon Bells, explored Aspen and danced the night away under the stars. My time in the United States continued after Colorado. I spent a week in Boston, reconnecting with friends, spending quality time with my niece/nephew and celebrating my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary. OCTOBER Just three weeks before Bodrum, Türkiye would shut down for the season, I squeezed in a final hurrah. I spent four days out on the water, soaking up the sun, enjoying Turkish delights and fully embracing the laid-back coastal vibe before the town went quiet for next six months. The celebrations for my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary continued a month later, in Paris. My husband and I took the Eurostar over for a weekend getaway to join them, making more special memories in one of the most romantic cities in the world. The final weekend of October was spent in Belfast, Northern Ireland, with fellow Travelers’ Century Club members. The city was rich in history, and we had the opportunity to learn a great deal about The Troubles , but the private lunch at Stormont (Parliament) was the true highlight. NOVEMBER As always, I returned to the United States for Thanksgiving to spend time with friends and family and to remind myself of all that I have to be thankful for. DECEMBER Argentina was the first destination of my 3.5-week end-of-the-year trip. My parents and I began in Buenos Aires and then continued south to Ushuaia, fondly known as the End of the World . I had visited Buenos Aires once before, 14 years ago, so it was a pleasure to return and see it again with fresh eyes. Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city, was a charming town surrounded by striking natural beauty, complete with a historic railway and delicious king crab. It also served as our gateway to Antarctica. After years of fantasizing, months of planning and endless saving, I finally set foot on the seventh continent. Antarctica was a thrilling polar expedition unlike anything I had experienced before. I’ll never forget the sneezing penguins, honking like confused donkeys; the thunderous cracks of calving icebergs; the explosive blows of whales; and the vast, unspoiled white horizons of this frozen wonderland. The final stop of the year was Chile , a brand-new country for me. We experienced a rich mix of cities and landscapes, traveling through Santiago, the Andes, Valparaíso, and Concón. That’s a wrap on my 2025 travels. Onward to planning 2026 and checking off the next adventures. Out with the old and in with the new! STATS FROM 2025 TRAVELS: Trips: 16 Flights: 36 Air Miles Flown: 60,630  ( 2.4 x around the world)   Flight Time: ~ 6 days  Hours Lost from Delays: 5 (plus several cancellations) Airlines Flown: 9 Airports Visited: 26 Total Countries/Territories Visited: 13 New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 4   Continents Visited: 5   (North America, South America, Antarctica, Asia   & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hired Accommodation: 74

When the clock struck midnight on 1st January 2001, I was in Montreal, Canada and did not yet know that a tradition spanning over two decades had begun. I have spent New Year's Eve in a different city and/or country for the past 27 celebrations/26 years. Moving slightly south from Canada, but sticking to North America, the first chunk of my New Year's Eve tour began in Texas. 2001-2002: Blanco, Texas . The night was spent in a barn, two-stepping to Tupac, eating BBQ and drinking cheap booze from an ice-filled horse trough. Does it get any more Texas than that? 2002-2003: Las Vegas, Nevada. Having just returned from a semester abroad in Sydney, it seemed appropriate to celebrate New Year's Eve with the boys from Australia's Thunder from Down Under. 2003-2004: Washington D.C. No politics were discussed and no fireworks were seen in my nation's capital, but a good time was had by all. 2004-2005: Boston, Massachusetts. We pahtied like only Bostonians do and had a 'wicked pissah!' In 2005, I moved from the east coast to California and the next batch of celebrations took place in the great Golden State. 2005-2006: San Diego, California. A group of us rang in 2006 at the Big Night San Diego gala held at the Hilton San Diego Bayfront. 2006-2007: Lake Tahoe, California. It was a white New Year's Eve. There was skiing and broomball in the daytime. At night we warmed up by dancing and toasting to 2007. 2007-2008: San Francisco, California. On 30th December 2007, two of my best friends and I decided to head to Napa to buy some bubbles for the next night's festivities. On this innocent endeavor we ended up drinking more than we bought. New Year's Eve day was a bit of a struggle, but we managed to get out of bed and put on dresses. If I remember correctly, we all fell asleep well before the clock struck 12am. 2008-2009: Los Angeles, California. What a truly gnarly and rad party it was! In 2009, I broadened my horizons, internationally, and have rung in the new year in a different country ever since (apart from during that wretched pandemic in 2020). 2009-2010: Derbyshire, England. This celebration was quintessentially British, celebrated in a traditional Victorian gastropub, in the historic village of Repton (which was basically Hogwarts). 2010-2011: Prague, Czech Republic. The evening was spent at a stylish cocktail venue, called Bugsy's Bar , adjacent to Prague's most renowned high-end shopping street. The mixologists were talented and the champagne was vintage. 2011-2012: Punta del Este, Uruguay. We wined and dined our way into 2012 at Boca Chica Carnes Asadas! 2012-2013: Cape Town, South Africa. The wind nearly blew us away, but we managed to hunker down for the countdown, at Zenzero , in Camps Bay. 2013-2014: Koh Phi Phi, Thailand. New beginnings were celebrated on a beach with fire jumping, neon body paint, buckets of booze, fireworks and non-stop music. 2014-2015: Madrid , Spain. The most famous Spanish New Year's tradition is to eat twelve grapes, one per second, for the first twelve strokes of the clock following midnight. This is meant to bring good luck for each of the upcoming year's months. *Top Tip: Choose grapes without seeds! 2015-2016: Valletta, Malta . Tucked between the bastion walls of Valletta was Rampila , the restaurant where we left 2015 and started 2016. After dinner, we took to the streets of Malta's capital to watch the display of pyrotechnics. 2016-2017: Kerala, India . In Kochi, Kerela, the Cochin Carnival takes place for ten days, ending on New Year's Day. It is famous for its colorful costumes, street parades, decorated elephants, music and dancing. On the night of 31st December, everyone heads to the beach. And I mean everyone. There were about 100,000 people there with me - probably 90% men and about 98% sober. At the stroke of midnight, the 37-foot Panaanji was lit on fire to resemble the end of the old year and birth of new (a 500-year-old tradition). 2017-2018: Porto , Potugal. Similar to Spain, in Portugal it is customary to eat twelve raisins, one by one, at midnight. Each raisin is said to bring you good luck for the months to come. I learned that raisins were less of a choking hazard and much easier to consume in quick succession than grapes. 2018-2019: Sal, Cape Verde . Unable to get a reservation, we arrived at PalmBeach Tropical Restaurant around 6pm to get a prime seat for sunset and fireworks. Celebrating the new year with your feet in the sand, seaside, with red wine and pizza was the way forward! 2019-2020: Vilnius , Lithuania. Slightly different to the previous year where there was warmth and sandy feet, this most recent New Year's was spent bundled up, as wet snow fell. After a hearty, delicious meal at Town Steakhouse , we popped outside, with our champagne in hand, to watch the fireworks over Cathedral Square. 2020-2021: Sutton, United Kingdom. COVID thwarted all international travel, so I got dressed up and celebrated at home, with my boyfriend. It wasn't a new country, but it was a new city for a NYE celebration, so my streak lived on. 2021-2022: Lanzorate , Canary Islands, Spain. Although COVID was still lurking, I managed to escape and meet one of my besties for an island getaway. New Year's wasn't a crazy celebration, but Lanzarote was a relaxing and fabulous start to a new year! 2022-2023: Muscat, Oman . Each year, New Year's Eve is celebrated with dancing, eating, drinking and watching fireworks on 31st December, per the Gregorian calendar. However, in Islamic countries this is not the case, as they follow the Muslim calendar. In Islamic Oman though, all the major hotels put on elaborate black-tie bashes, so the Westerners can party. 2023- 2024: Mexico City, Mexico . I ventured south of the US border to the tastiest destination in North America right now, to visit one of my dear friends from university, who also happens to be a very talented chef. On New Year's Eve, she prepared a six-course tasting menu for eighteen of us at a really cool space. What a tasty way to close out a year! 2023 - 2024 : Belgrade, Serbia . In 2024, I celebrated two New Year's Eves, two weeks apart. The second, Old New Year AKA Orthodox New Year was celebrated on 13th January, in Belgrade, Serbia. 2024 - 2025 : Jersey, Channel Islands . At the end of 2024, I was renewing my passport, so I was limited in where I could travel for NYE. I decided to have a relaxing spa break, in Jersey, so I'd kick off the year fresh and recharged. 2025 - 2026: Valparaíso , Chile . Valpo is the epicenter of New Year's Eve ( Año Nuevo ) celebrations in Chile. Its famous fireworks show, considered one of the largest in South America, lights up the entire bay beneath the moonlight. Cheers to another new year, everyone...And wishes for many more New Year's celebrations around the globe! #newyearseve #auldlangsyne #resolutions #montreal #canada #unitedstatesofamerica #usa #blanco #texas #lasvegas #nevada #washingtondc #boston #massachusetts #sandiego #california #laketahoe #sanfrancisco #losangeles #northamerica #derbyshire #england #unitedkingdom #uk #greatbritain #europe #prague #czechrepublic #puntadeleste #uruguay #southamerica #capetown #southafrica #africa #kohphiphi #thailand #asia #madrid #spain #valletta #malta #kerela #india #porto #portugal #sal #capeverde #vilnius #lithuania #sutton #lanzarote #canaryislands #muscat #oman #middleeast #valparaiso #valpo #chile

The six days before embarking on my Antarctic expedition were spent in Argentina - Buenos Aires then Ushuaia. I had visited BA once before, fourteen years ago, but it was a pleasure to return and rediscover the city after so many years away. Ushuaia, which was new to me, felt like a quaint outpost primarily serving travelers en route to Patagonia or the White Continent. With its alpine-Nordic feel and hiker- and backpacker-friendly charm, it seemed perfectly suited to its role as a gateway to the end of the world. Below are my recommendations for short stays in Buenos Aires and/or Ushuaia. BUENOS AIRES ACCOMODATION: I stayed at a boutique hotel on a charming street in Palermo Soho called Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa . The location was great, situated about 45-mins from the international airport (EZE) and 15-mins from the domestic airport (AEP). The hotel staff were warm and helpful, and the common areas were very pleasant. However, I found the rooms to be somewhat dated and on the smaller side. I would highly recommend staying in the same neighborhood but perhaps opt for a different hotel if you’re able to find a better option. DO: Wander around Palermo Soho : This neighborhood was home to some of the best street art in Buenos Aires along with cafés serving expertly brewed coffee, and an abundance of hip bars and restaurants. Pop into cafés, eat empanadas, browse the shops, visit the botanical gardens (free admission) and generally allow yourself to get lost. Who knows what you might see - perhaps even a parrot making off with a packet of mayo, if you're lucky!? Visit Recoleta: One of Buenos Aires’ more elegant and affluent barrios , Recoleta was filled with leafy streets, trendy cafés, luxury apartments, parks, museums and art galleries. Be sure to visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid, an opulent theater-turned-bookshop, before making your way to the famous cemetery, the final resting place of Eva Perón. The burial grounds felt like a city unto itself, complete with avenues, side streets and street signs. I highly recommend experiencing tango while in Buenos Aires, though not all shows are created equal. Skip Aljibe . I chose it because it started earlier than most, but it felt hokey, and the accordion-heavy soundtrack quickly became monotonous. On my previous visit, I went to the Rojo Tango Show at The Faena Hotel, which was sexy, passionate and mysterious, though undeniably expensive. Do a bit of research and find a show that suits your taste, but don’t leave the city without seeing tango performed live. CONSUME: Moshu Treehouse : Linger over breakfast or lunch in the leafy courtyard of this whimsical, treehouse-inspired café. Don Julio : One of the world’s most famous Michelin-starred steakhouses, Don Julio is a must when in Buenos Aires. Book online as far in advance as possible, as tables fill quickly. Arrive about 30 minutes prior to your reservation to enjoy complimentary champagne and empanadas while you wait. The steaks were enormous, though smaller cuts are available off-menu, if you ask. Parrilla Doña Tota: Known for its authentic Argentine barbecue, this popular steakhouse was decorated with football memorabilia celebrating Diego Maradona. It offered a vibrant atmosphere and great service for fans of both meat and football. For a meal that promised something a little different, we booked a Backyard BBQ . It was an eight-course menu at an authentic Argentine asado (meat cooked over an open fire/grill), paired with thoughtfully selected wines from local vineyards and accompanied by live music from local musicians. Unfortunately, a storm literally rained on our parade, and the event was cancelled. USHUAIA Affectionately referred to as 'the end of the world,'  Ushuaia is the where the map ends and adventure begins. The town was colorful and compact, framed by snow-capped mountains and lined with outdoor-gear and souvenir shops. It was a pleasant place to spend a few days, though there wasn’t a great deal to do beyond soaking up the scenery and preparing for onward adventures. ACCOMODATION: The only five-star option in Ushuaia was the Arakur Resort & Spa . Perched on a hill about 15 minutes from the city center, it offered spectacular views, excellent food and a luxurious spa. A complimentary shuttle to and from town made staying here both convenient and indulgent. DO: Book a half-day Tierra del Fuego tour with train . You’ll be mesmerized by the landscapes of the southernmost national park and get to ride the historic 'End of the World' train. Our group was small, with just 11 people, and we stopped at four scenic spots along the way. The tour ended with a shot of Licor Fino Legui, a traditional Argentine herbal liqueur made from sugarcane molasses and infused with herbs, caramel and citrus. At nearly 30% alcohol, it warmed us right up. If you have some free time to kill in Ushuaia, visit the Maritime Museum , located in the former penal colony. The complex also housed an Antarctic Museum and a Prison Museum, offering insight into the region’s harsh history and its legacy of maritime exploration. CONSUME: María Lola Restó : For delicious Argentine and Patagonian cuisine complemented by views of the city and port, this is a lovely spot for a meal. La Cantina De Freddy : An ideal spot for sampling fresh centolla  (king crab) in Ushuaia. The atmosphere was cozy, welcoming and perfectly suited to a relaxed, hearty meal. The Dublin - I’ve yet to visit a city that didn’t have an Irish pub, and Ushuaia was no exception. A stop at the southernmost Irish pub in the world feels imperative, even if only so you can say you’ve been. Next up: Antarctica ! KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas : On my previous visit to Argentina, a visa was required, but this time it was no longer necessary for U.S. passport holders. Always double-check entry requirements before you travel, as policies can change. Cash : You’ll mainly need cash for tipping and taxis. Avoid using ATMs and opt for a currency exchange instead. Your hotel can usually recommend a trustworthy one. Tipping : A 10% tip is standard for good service in restaurants. In most cases, tips must be given in cash. We were unable to add them to credit card payments in most places. Currency : The official currency was the Argentine peso, though U.S. dollars are also widely accepted. This can be confusing, as prices are typically written with a dollar sign ($) regardless of the currency. Always confirm which currency you’re being charged in. Additionally, commas were commonly used as decimal separators, instead of periods, which added to the confusion. Food : Portion sizes were enormous everywhere. Sharing dishes is highly recommended. Language : English was widely spoken, and we didn’t encounter any major communication issues. Taxis : I was advised to avoid local taxis, so I relied on pre-arranged drivers or Uber throughout my trip. Electricity : Argentina used both Type C (two-pin round European plugs) and Type I (Australian-style) outlets. The voltage was 220V, similar to most of Europe, so be prepared with the appropriate adapters and converters. Weather : Despite it being summer in both destinations, Buenos Aires was very hot while Ushuaia was bitterly cold—it even snowed. Be ready for all four seasons in a single day at the end of the world.

The beautiful Bodrum Peninsula sits on Türkiye ’s southwest coast, where the Aegean and Mediterranean seas meet. Once a quiet fishing village, Bodrum has transformed into a glamorous summer destination for wealthy Turkish holidaymakers, and more recently, a global hotspot attracting celebrities and the jet-set elite. From May to October, Bodrum buzzes with high-energy beach clubs, couture boutiques, opulent accommodations and world-class restaurants. But by 1st November, many of these businesses shut down as European charter flights and package holidays come to an end. There’s more to Bodrum than high-season hype though. Visiting in October, just as the crowds thin and the pace slows, offers a more relaxed experience of the Turkish Riviera. Getting around is easier, with far fewer tourists and an abundance of taxis. And the weather is milder, but still pleasantly warm and sunny. Despite some closures, there's still plenty to explore in Bodrum. Based on my experience, here are the best things to do when visiting this little slice of paradise in the shoulder season...  STAY: If you're looking for luxury, it doesn’t get better than The Bodrum EDITION . This chic resort features 110 guest rooms, suites and villas - most with sea views, private pools, balconies and gardens. Every room features custom furnishings and indulgent marble bathrooms. On the premise, there's a spa, fitness center, infinity pool, beach club, two bars, a night club, all-day casual dining venues and a Michelin-starred restaurant. You get around by buggy, which is fun. The resort is so well-equipped, you might not feel the need to leave, but if you do, here’s what I recommend... DO/EAT: Get a feel Bodrum's glitzy side at Yalıkavak Marina, where superyachts dock alongside designer boutiques and upscale beach clubs. Even though most places were already closed when I visited in early October, it's still a lovely spot to stroll at sunset and take in the views. Book a table at Sait , a seafood favorite (it was closed for a private event when I tried to go, but I've only heard great things). Yalıkavak is a 10-minute drive from the EDITION and 300 lira each way. For a completely different vibe, head to the laid-back village of Gümüşlük, often described as 'the untouched side of Bodrum.' It is unpretentious and perfect for a tranquil evening. Whilst there enjoy an authentic Turkish sunset dinner at Melengeç Balık Restaurant (they don't have a website, but the EDITION's concierge team can make a booking for you). Gümüşlük is about a 25-minute drive from the hotel, for 600 lira. Bodrum’s 175 kilometres of jagged coastline is home to dozens of stunning, impossibly blue coves, making it an ideal place to get out on a boat. What's App Ibrahim Kaptan Golkoy (+90 532 470 04 96) to arrange a private tour. He speaks limited English, but Google Translate does the job. He picked us up/dropped us off at our hotel, took us out on the boat for about seven hours and cooked us a lovely lunch - all for €350. He even threw in a free bottle of wine. October in Bodrum offers a quieter, more restful escape. It's still warm, still beautiful and with just enough happening to make it feel special. If you’re after peace, luxury and a taste of the Aegean without the summer chaos, visiting before Bodrum sleeps for the winter is the sweet spot that just might be the ticket. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas : When I last visited Türkiye , I needed an eVisa, but this time, it was no longer required for trips up to 90 days. Always double-check before you travel though as things do change. Tipping : 10-15% for good service in restaurants, bars and hotels is customary and appreciated, especially in touristy areas . For smaller services, such as taxis or housekeeping, rounding up the bill or leaving a few small bills is a polite gesture.  Taxis : The hotel will arrange taxis for you. Note that they only accept cash. Most tourist spots have ATMs, but the EDITION will happily charge the fare to your room as well. Most popular tourist spots have designated taxi ranks to get you back to the hotel. Currency : Turkish Lira (TRY) is the local currency. Money : Be prepared for higher prices due to its popularity as a tourist destination.  Electricity : Türkiye uses 2-pin round European sockets, 220V voltage (same as most of Europe).