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  • marrakech, morocco - take two

    There’s just something about Marrakech. It is more than just an ancient city in Morocco; it’s a sensory experience, filled with vibrant colors, flavors, smells, sounds, and unique sights. The city bombards your senses and holds nothing back in the process. The first time I visited was for just one day/one night, at the front-end of a wider Moroccan road trip. This time, because I went for three days, I got to experience a bit more of the excitement and energy that Marrakech beholds. Below are my recommendations for a weekend spent in the red city. STAY: The restored 18th-century Riad Kniza is a boutique-y 11 room hideout in the heart of Marrakech's old city. When you step through the front door, you leave the hustle of the old town behind you. The guesthouse's atmosphere is peaceful and serene with an authentic Moroccan decor. Our room, the royal suite (#11), was enormous, with a modern bathroom, seating area, fireplace and lots of Moorish detail. The riad has a rooftop, spa, pool, several courtyards and a wall of photographs featuring the owner alongside his many famous guests. If it's good enough for Brad Pitt, Will Smith and Goldie Hawn, it's good enough for me! DO: Marrakech is famous for its souks (markets). Take your time mooching around the labyrinth of covered alleys, getting lost amongst the paintings, rugs, leather goods, lanterns, spice stalls and crockery of all shapes and sizes. If you’re looking for a true Marrakechi experience, haggle with the vendors. Start at one quarter of the price you're told, and never pay more than a third of the initial given price. ROOFTOPS: Whilst the city has become a hotspot for those seeking Arabian luxuries in lavish lodgings, marble clad spas and chic dining experiences, it's interesting to see a different side of Marrakech, hidden from the streets below. From the rooftops, you get a peek behind the curtain, so to speak. You'll see clothes hanging out to dry, crumbling plaster, rusty satellite dishes and weakly installed cabling. Roof terraces are the perfect place to sit back, relax and note the juxtaposition that is Marrakech. I recommend the following (*Note: Some do, and some do not sell alcohol): Bazaar Cafe: Climb the stairs to the top floor for the best views. Up there, you'll find a relaxed terrace, charming atmosphere and a selection of wine, beer and spirits. Medina Sky doesn't serve booze, but it sure is pretty. Pop in for a traditional mint tea or have a snack before moving on to the next rooftop. If you want to visit the highest bar in the Medina and be seen at one of the newest and coolest spots, look no further than Kabana. Visit El Fenn's rooftop for a delicious lunch, then stay to enjoy the plunge pool and a few bottles of rose in one of the many lounging areas. It's an Instagrammer's paradise. DINNER: To sample some of the delectable dishes that Marrakech has to offer, dine at the following: At Comptoir Darna you'll get exotic decor, dinner and a show. Book in advance and be sure to order the roasted goats cheese starter followed by the famous mechoui for two. The lamb shoulder is cooked for seven hours and then roasted. It's served with vegetables and potatoes and is more than enough to feed four people. Whilst you dine, you will be entertained by belly dancers and women balancing lit candelabras on their heads. Ask to sit by the pool at Hotel La Maison Arabe. I had great service, a lovely meal and really enjoyed the live music. For the second time, Morocco did not disappoint. Marrakech is a must-visit destination for travellers seeking a quintessential Moroccan experience with a whole lot of surprises. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: The Moroccan dirham is a closed currency, meaning you can't get any in advance and you are not allowed to take any with you when you leave. Many places in Marrakech (restaurants, hotels, taxis and some stalls) will accept Euros, but you'll often get dirham as change, with what can be a poor exchange rate. Be aware of pick-pockets and backpack slashers in crowded markets. In the souq, be firm but polite. Haggling is part of the Moroccan experience. Most Moroccans speak French as well as their Berber dialects. Modest clothing is advised for both female and male travelers to avoid hassles and unwanted attention. Vendors and performers in the souqs expect to be paid for photographs. And many Moroccans don’t like having their photos taken. Respect their customs. #medina #marrakech #morocco #maroc #northafrica #africa

  • lake garda, italy

    My first weekend getaway, after moving to Munich, was to Lake Garda (that's 'Lago di Garda' if you're Italian or 'Gardasee' if you're German). This is the largest lake in Italy, located in the north of the country, on the edge of the Dolomites. It was formed by glaciers and is known for its crystal clear water. I flew into Verona (about a 40-min flight from Munich) on a Friday evening. No immigration, on either side, was necessary, as both Germany and Italy are in the EU and part of the Schengen area. As I was landing late at night, I didn't know where I was going and I haven't driven much in about 10 years, I decided it would be best to book a car service to take me to my hotel. Zip Transfers were the cheapest option I could find. It was €142 round-trip, for two people inclusive of luggage. Both drivers were on time and friendly. I stayed a pleasant hotel called Hotel Olivi, in Sirmione, a resort town on the southern bank of the lake. The first stop on my tour of Lake Garda, after a slow start on Saturday morning, was the famous Scaligero Castle, a medieval fortress in the historic center of Sirmione. Since I was starving, and it was directly across from the castle, Pizzeria Scaligeri's was selected for lunch. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Both the artichoke/parma ham bruschetta starter and the pizza I had were delicious. I washed it all down with a few glasses of Lugana (local white wine). Next on my self-created tour was a ferry ride. It cost €23.40 for an all-day, multi-stop ticket. I intended on taking the 14:06 to Lazise, but accidentally got on a slightly earlier boat, going the opposite direction. I ended up in Desenzano, which turned out to be a lovely spot for a lakeside drink. I had an hour to kill before the next ferry left. The second and final boat stop was Garda, where I had some wanders and sundowners. At 19:20, I took the last ferry back from Garda to Sirmione (which took about 45-minutes). I had just enough time to get freshen up, back at the hotel, and then walk to dinner at La Speranzina, a lakeside Michelin star restaurant. It was amazing! After the meal, I was so full, I didn't even have room for gelato! On Sunday, it was less sunny, but still warm, so I decided to walk to the north end of the Sirmione peninsula and visit the Grotte di Catullo (the entrance fee was €8). These ruins of a Roman villa were built at the end of the 1st century B.C. and the beginning of the 1st century A.D. Just down a short trail from the entrance to the Catullo Caves I found Jamaica Beach, with its slabs of rock and turquoise water. Overlooking the beach was the Jamaica Beach Bar, which had fun music playing and offered generous pours of Prosecco. Finally, it was time for the last lunch in Lake Garda before heading back to the airport. I had pasta with truffles at Ristorante il Girasole. Mmmmmmm! Back to Munich I went, fat and happy! #lakegarda #lagodigarda #gardasee #sirmione #garda #desenzano #italy #italia #europe

  • the lure of liverpool

    In the United Kingdom's primate city structure, London surpasses all other cities in size and importance. The 'Second City', however, is an unofficial title that is subjective and cultural in nature and has been claimed by many UK cities over the years. If you asked the inhabitants of Birmingham what they think the 'Second City' is, they'll say 'Birmingham'. If you ask Mancunians, they'd no doubt reply with 'Manchester'. But if you ask proud Liverpool scousers, they'll say 'London'. It may not be London, but for a compact and walkable city, Liverpool packs a big punch. It was named the second 'friendliest city in the UK' in the Condé Nast Traveler 2023 Readers Choice Awards. It is often used as a filming location due to its variety of architectural styles. It is England's only UNESCO City of Music. Sports wise, it's the home to two renowned Premier League football teams. And it's known for having some excellent restaurants and a lively nightlife. MUSIC I'd be remiss not to mention the Beatles first as one of the most famous, and best, gifts that Liverpool has given the world. Regarded as one of the most influential bands of all time, the Beatles rose to fame in the 1960s. The Fab Four are still celebrated around the globe today and responsible for vast amounts of tourism in Liverpool. You'll see references and landmarks dedicated to John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr all over the city. The hotel where I stayed even had references on their website and memorabilia in their lobby. I highly recommend taking a Beatles-themed tour. I did this one and my guide, Roy, was a delight! Many other influential and notable musical acts hail from Liverpool as well. Musicians from this city have released more chart-topping hit singles than anywhere else in the world. SPORTS Liverpool isn’t just about the Beatles. Football is also a vital component of Liverpool's culture and economy. Plenty of cities have two football clubs, but the Blues and the Reds rivalry is one of the most amicable because of their proximity (only meters separate Goodison Park and Anfield) and lack of fundamental difference between the supporters, in terms of religion and social status. If you can, get tickets to a match. I chose to see Everton because they were playing at home and Liverpool FC were away the weekend I was visiting. Both clubs also offer grounds tours, if there are no games on when you're in town. If you see the Toffees, get to Goodison Park with plenty of time and have some drinks with the supporters in one of the many nearby pubs. FOOD/BEVERAGE I wouldn't necessarily call Liverpool a foodie city, but it is home to several great restaurants. Most notable was 8 by Andrew Sheridan. Having achieved three AA-Rosettes, 8 is also listed in The Michelin Guide, was named by The Times as one of its top 10 worldwide dining experiences and won best restaurant in the UK and Best restaurant in Liverpool at the British Restaurant Awards. I stumbled upon the Petit Café by accident but I recommend experiencing this taste of France, on the edge of Liverpool's China Town. Enjoy specialist wines, crafted cocktails and live jazz every weekend. The Royal Albert Dock offers a glimpse of Liverpool’s maritime history. It is the most-visited free tourist destination in Northwest England, home to museums, galleries, shops, restaurants and bars. If you like gin, visit the Liverpool Gin Distillery on Castle Street. Located in the heart of the city, it is spread over four floors. On the ground floor you will find the Gin Bar, which is home to over 40 different gins. Regardless of where you stand on the ranking of UK's cities, if you're planning a trip to England and you fancy a change from the usual London-focused visit, then Liverpool is a great option. #liverpool #uk #unitedkingdom #england #evertonfc #liverpoolfc #beatles #scouse

  • where has the time gone?

    As today marks my two-year anniversary in London Town and it’s been a year and a half since I shared the 6 things I learned in my first 6 months in London, I thought I’d post a few more discoveries to round out my list at a total of 24. Without further ado, and in no particular order, below are my random thoughts and ramblings: Food & Drink 1. For the love of condiments: Malt vinegar or mayonnaise with your chips (french fries)? Brown sauce versus tomato ketchup. Does anyone actually like Marmite? What is salad cream? The list of sauce options in the UK is endless and the condiments sections of grocery stores are vast: horseradish, mustard, chili sauce, mint sauce, tartar sauce, gravy, curry, relish, etc. I can’t tell if Brits prefer their actual meals or if the dishes are just used as a vehicle for consuming condiments. Not being a condiment lover myself, I don’t claim to understand the British fondness for such things, but seriously, what IS salad cream? 2. Iced wine: In UK pubs, drinks are typically served cool, not cold. Simply put, ice is less essential here. My intent is not to moan about it, but to confess that since my wine is often not served at its optimal temperature, I am now a habitual vino icer. And I’m not upset about it. **GASP** 3. Flavored crisps (potato chips, for all you ‘Mericans): Are you brave enough to try 'Roast Chicken', 'Roast Beef and Peppercorn Sauce' or 'Pork Sausage and English Mustard' crisps? Would you pair a pack of 'Smoked Ham & Pickle' or 'Firecracker Lobster' chips with your sandwich? These flavors make me question whether crisps here are meant to be a snack or a meal replacement. 4. You can drink…everywhere: Anyone over 18 in the UK can drink alcohol. Location is of no consequence: in the street, in theaters, at parks. Even where outlawed, you’ll see people enjoying adult beverages (on buses, trains, tubes, trams, the London Eye, etc.). Public intoxication, although not always technically legal is socially acceptable just about everwhere and I love it! Healthcare 5. A&E: In the UK, A&E is not a place you’d want to spend a great deal of your time. Accident & Emergency is the hospital department dealing with life-threatening emergencies. In the US, A&E is a television network that airs programs like Intervention. I’d much prefer to watch an intervention on TV, from the comfort of my couch, then live through it in an emergency room. Just sayin’. 6. National Health Service (NHS): I think it’s fair to say that most Britons believe the NHS to be a symbol of one of the things that makes Britain great. A tribute to the NHS even featured in the opening ceremonies of the 2012 London Olympics. While I agree that national healthcare has its advantages, let me make one thing perfectly clear: it is not free. The second largest chunk of an average UK earner’s tax bill goes to the NHS. There are pros and cons to both the US and the UK healthcare systems that I won’t delve into here, but there’s one example in particular that I’d like to share which will help you understand why I don’t necessarily celebrate the NHS establishment as much as my neighbors. The first time I utilized NHS services, I was asked to provide a urine sample. Seems reasonable so far, right? There was nowhere to leave my cup o' pee in the bathroom, so I was left sitting in the waiting area, holding it, which felt slightly uncivilized. When the general practitioner called me into the exam room, I handed the cup over to him, at which point he took the lid off and…wait for it…smelled it. Yep, and then he diagnosed me as dehydrated. It’s worth noting that my sample was the color of lemon-lime Gatorade and probably didn’t require a sniff test for that level of professional analysis. Animals 7. Urban foxes and flying ants: In no other city in the world (at least that I am aware of) are foxes part of the urban landscape. The first time I saw one I had no idea what it was, but it scared the crap out of me. I quickly learned that they are quite common in London. Apart from their hideous, screeching mating cries (heard for a few weeks each January), they are generally harmless and spend most of their time patrolling the streets at night, eating rubbish and keeping the rodent count down. In addition to these weird city-dwelling creatures, the UK also has flying ants. One day each year, when the weather finally gets a little balmy and warm (usually July or August), millions of winged ants come out, in swarms, in an attack on the UK. They even have their own holiday (cleverly enough) called ‘Flying Ant Day’. I high recommend staying indoors on this day. Government & Law 8. United Kingdom (UK) vs Great Britain (GB): The United Kingdom (officially The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland) is comprised of four separate nations: England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Great Britain, on the other hand, refers to only England, Scotland and Wales. All people in the UK are technically British despite having different nationalities (although I wouldn’t recommend calling a Scotsman British to his face). Still following? Good! Let’s complicate things further for you then. In the Olympics, all four countries compete together as Team Great Britain (even though Northern Ireland is included). In Rugby, England, Wales and Scotland each compete as their own separate nations, but Northern Ireland and Ireland contend together and are collectively called Ireland. In the European Championships (football/soccer), each country competes individually. Clear as mud now, right? 9. Thievery: Starting in October of 2015, the law required all retailers in England who have 250+ employees to charge 5 pence per single-use plastic carrier bag. With this cost being applied, fewer and fewer people are opting for bags when only buying only a few small things. Combine this with the increase of contactless payments (tap and go technology for totals under £30, much like Apple Pay). When using contactless, you are given the option of receiving a receipt or not. I’d wager that most people don’t take the receipt. I know I never do. So, now it's becoming more and more common to see people walking out of shops, holding unbagged items, with no receipts, looking like thieves. Surveillance 10. CCTV (video surveillance): London is considered the most watched city in the world. There is said to be approximately one CCTV camera per every 11-14 people. In theory, all the surveillance should reduce crime, but, in reality, only ~3% of crimes are solved as a result of CCTV. Privacy activists view this as being spied on by Big Brother, but I personally don’t really mind. It’s the closest to celebrity status that I’ll probably ever get. Sport 11. English sport: Sport plays a prominent role in the English society. Many of the sports that the world competes in today were invented over here. That said, England is known to consistently under-perform on world sporting stages. The last World Cup win for England was in 1966; England last won a Rugby World Cup 13 years ago, in 2003; and it took nearly 80 years before one of Britain’s own won a men's singles Wimbledon Championship in 2013. Despite the constant sporting disappointments here, the fans maintain an incredible hopefulness. You can count on the English fanatical sport enthusiasts to tune in to each event with the confidence that this will be their year…Equally, you can almost always, just as reliably, count on failure and disappointment. Humor 12. The brilliance that is British humor: Combine a heavy-handed portion of sarcasm and a heaping serving of self-deprecation with a touch of wit. Add in a measured dose of spot-on timing, a dash of deadpan delivery and you’ve been served a dish of perfectly crafted British humor. The best part is that the Brits don’t leave the comedy to the professionals. I honestly don’t think I could make it through a full day of work if it wasn’t for the group of comedian colleagues who surround me. Vacation 13. Time off: Before I moved to the UK, I was under the impression that the British rarely ever worked. If they weren’t off for a bank holiday, they were sat at the pub all day. The bit about the pub isn’t entirely false, but the former is completely untrue. It turns out (much to my dismay) that in the UK there are in fact fewer annual public/bank holidays (8) than in the US (~11). That said, workers in the UK are entitled to considerably more paid vacation time (a minimum of 28 days inclusive of the bank holidays) than those in the US (no statutory minimum). However, compared to other countries in Europe, the time off in the UK is dismal. Once my UK visa is up, I might have to give serious consideration to moving to Austria or Portugal! 14. Flight length: When I lived in California, it was not uncommon to fly 6 hours cross-country for a weekend or even to more far off lands, such as Germany or Tel Aviv. Now that I live in Europe and everything is so close, I find myself reconsidering weekend trips if the flight duration is anything over 2 hours. I know, I know, spoiled, jet-setter problems. Measurement 15. Metric system fails: In the US, I grew up learning/using imperial units (feet, miles, gallons, inches, pounds) as a system of measurement. I’ve had to try to learn to adopt the metric system since my relocation...And I have not done so particularly well. A few months after my arrival in the UK, I ordered an engraved cutting board as a wedding present. On the site it was indicated to be 20x15x2cm. That pretty much meant nothing to me, so I went ahead and entered the engraving specifics, shipping and payment details. When it arrived, it was so tiny that you could barely cut and apple on it. Since it was personalized, I had no option but to wrap it up, gift it and sincerely apologize. (Sorry again, Morgan and Kevin). Public Transit 16. Who are these people?: I’ve seen some odd things on trains in this country. Perhaps it’s down to the sheer volume of hours spent in transit, but, either way, I’d like to share some photos that have my commutes more interesting. Bathrooms 17. Outlets: Or should I say lack thereof? Do THAT many people really die from electrocution in their lavatory? Is legislation banning electrical sockets in all UK bathrooms entirely necessary? Charging my electric toothbrush and blow-drying my hair in my bedroom is rather bothersome. 18. Warm water impossibilities: Why oh why are the hot and cold faucets separate in sinks over here? My options are boiling or freezing. It’s impossible to create lukewarm water without a mixer tap. So there you have it...All my very wise and clever learnings from two years spent in London. Stay tuned for more quips as my time here continues.

  • the wild and wonderous azores

    The nine volcanic islands that make up the Portuguese archipelago, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, are collectively known as the Azores. They are divided into three clusters. The Western Group is comprised of Flores and Corvo. The Central Group has Terceira, Graciosa, Faial, São Jorge and Pico. And the Eastern Group consists of Santa Maria and São Miguel. My time was spent solely on São Miguel, aptly nicknamed ’The Green Island’ because of its lush landscapes, rolling hillsides, forests and plantations. Ponta Delgada serves as the capital of São Miguel and is the gateway to the island's famous crater lakes, thermal activities, waterfalls and rugged coastline. Despite being the largest and most populous municipality in the Azores, Ponta Delgado was pretty quiet when I was there. My friend and I arrived at João Paulo II airport (PDL), in Ponta Delgado, after flying via Lisbon, from London Heathrow. At the time of writing this, there were direct flights from Stansted, but not from any other London airports. We rented a new and very affordable car from Magic Islands rent-a-car, but I wouldn't recommend them as they turned out to be scam artists. We should have read the reviews in advance of booking with them. I guess you get what you pay for. After what felt like a long day of travel, we enjoyed a lengthy dinner at A Tasca and then went straight to bed, so we'd be fresh and ready to hit the road the next morning. We rested our heads in very comfortable beds at the Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico. ROAD TRIP DAY ONE The first day of the journey was focused on the western side of São Miguel. We drove about 25 minutes to the civil parish known as Sete Cidades, which has 15 attractions but is most famous for its Twin Lakes. We stopped at the following five spots (each had a small parking lot/pull-off nearby): 1. Miradouro do Pico do Carvão- We initially pulled over to see what the crowd of people were looking at. When we opened our car doors, and they nearly blew off their hinges, due to wind, we decided to snap a couple of quick photos and then promptly carry on to the next point of interest. 2. Aqueduto do Carvão - 600 meters down the road, we pulled over again, to check out the old stone aqueduct that has been preserved by the moss and vegetation covering it. Originally, it was built at the request of the Town Hall, to carry water from the Canário and Empadadas lakes to Ponta Delgada. 3. Lagoa do Canario - After driving another five minutes, we parked and walked down some cool forest steps that were built between tree trunks, to get to this lake. Later in the day, we attempted to go to Miradouro da Boco do Inferno, but were unable to navigate to it on Google Maps. Whilst writing this blog, I learned that you actually access it by taking the dirt track to the right of Lagoa do Canario. If you follow the road around to the left, after a few kilometers, you'll find some steps on the left. Climb those steps and continue on the trail for about ten minutes to reach the Boco do Inferno lookout (which looks pretty darn spectacular). 4. Miradouro da Vista do Rei - We drove for about another ten minutes to get to 'The King's View'. As one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Portugal, this is the showstopper that has put the Azores on the map. Here you'll experience a breathtaking panoramic view of a crater filled with two lakes. If you're lucky, and the weather is playing ball, one lake will appear blue (Lagoa Azul) and the other will be green (Lagoa Verde) - this is due to algae content and depth of each. When you get to this viewpoint, you'll notice the derelict Monte Palace looming overhead. This luxury hotel was abandoned from almost the day it was built, back in the 1980s. Deserted for over 25 years, it now looks a little like the set for a horror film. Despite the warning signs not to enter, you can wander around freely and climb up to the roof for even better views of the Twin Lakes. 5. Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras - Driving another four or so kilometers will bring you to another scenic wonder that offers a different perspective of the Twin Lakes of Sete Cidades, overlooking the bridge that divides them. As you descend from the above lookouts, into the crater, and towards the village of Sete Cidades, in the summer months, you’ll find yourself on 'hydrangea highway'. The hedgerows along this road are apparently drenched in flowers from May to September. Since it was mid-April when I was there, the flowers were not yet in bloom. We then drove across the bridge that bisects the Twin Lakes, into the teeny tiny town, for lunch at Tea House 'O Poejo'. After lunching, we left Sete Cidades and ventured (about 20 minutes) over to Feteiras, to check out the rocky coastline. En route back to Ponta Delgado, we made another pitstop in Relva, for more coastal views. It was unbearably windy though, so we didn't stay long. Once back in Ponta Delgado, we wandered around the sleepy city, stopping at a few places to eat and drink (Louvre Michaelense for drinks and then Taberna Boavista for dinner). That night we, again, stayed at the Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico. ROAD TRIP DAY TWO After another tranquil night's sleep, we ate breakfast, checked out and headed northeast to begin our 'thermal day', where everything we had planned revolved around geothermal activity. We had a reservation, from 10:30am to 12:30pm, to soak in the four naturally-heated thermal pools at Caldeira Velha. Leaving our hotel at 10:00am got us there with plenty of time to park (300m away), walk up a bunch of stairs, stand in a queue (despite having booked in advance) and still enter at our allotted timeslot. It was all a little hectic and the staff were unhelpful. In fact, this was the only place, anywhere on the island where we had anything less than perfect service, from the most delightful people. It wasn't clear how/where to get the padlocks for the hired (tiny) lockers and there was a TON of people/children all crowded around the very basic changing facilities (i.e. a wooden shed divided into three stalls). As such, I'd recommend wearing your bathing suit and flip-flops, bringing a towel and a bag for wet stuff and leaving any jewelry in the car (it'll tarnish). Although it was all a bit of a faff and overcrowded, the verdant, forested grounds were beautiful. 20 minutes further north and further east, we passed Gorreana Tea Plantation and decided to stop to check it out (the joys of a road trip!). It turns out that the Azores are the home to the oldest tea plantation in Europe. Gorreana is family-run and has been in operation for almost 300 years. It's free to walk around and bookings are not required. The neat rows of hedges were very satisfying for my OCD. We carried on driving about 20 minutes eastward, to Furnas. We had some time to kill before lunch so wandered around the quaint town. We passed a church and a water mill before we noticed clouds of sulphureous vapor ahead. Intrigued, we got closer, we noticed the bubbling hot springs and the plopping of boiling clay. It was like a mini Yellowstone. At 13:00 we had lunch at the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel. Our waiter generously gifted us with a voucher to visit Terra Nostra Park afterward, granting us access to the botanical gardens and the murky, golden-brown thermal pool. Don't let the color put you off though, it's just the iron in the mineral water. But if you are going to get wet, wear an old, dark-colored bathing suit that you don't care about staining. The Romantic-style botanical garden is stunning and full of exotic vegetation. Allow for time to walk around and enjoy the beauty and tranquility. That evening, we had dinner at Restaurante Tony's. If you want to try the famous 'Cozido', email to make a booking and pre-order at least 24 hours in advance. This regional dish is slowly cooked in pots buried in the ground, using the heat from volcanic activity. This meat stew is comprised of beef, pork, chicken, sausage and chorizo served with rice and vegetables. In a quick attempt to burn off a few of dinner's calories, before getting in a swimsuit, we walked 20 minutes to our next destination - Poça da Dona Beija. We soaked under the stars at this natural hot spring facility, which was pretty magical. This place was much more high-tech and civilized than Caldeira Velha in the AM. It is mandatory to book tickets in advance. The lovely people at Poça da Dona Beija called us a taxi (€5 for about a 5-minute ride) to take us back to our hotel, Octant Furnas. ROAD TRIP DAY THREE As an Octant Furnas guest, we had 24-hour access to the indoor and outdoor thermal pools, so we started the day off with a dip. We were also each gifted a 20-minute flotation bed treatment, so we continued our hydrotherapy circuit until we had to check out. After leaving Furnas, we headed west, to the Lagoa do Fogo viewpoint, which is located pretty much bang in the center of São Miguel Island. Seeing the lake with clear skies is the goal, but the weather changes quickly and varies vastly across the island. We were lucky enough to get a view of the lake, but the strong winds disincentivized us from hiking. The trail starting from that overlook, was steep and muddy and uninviting due to the heavy cloud cover. Since our attempt to hike had been obliterated by low lying clouds, mud and wind, we decided to have lunch and then give it another go. So, we drove 25 minutes to Bar Caloura in Vila Franca do Campo. This easy breezy seafood restaurant is very casual and right on the water. They don't take reservations, so you might have to wait for a seat. Get the Limpets. We went back to Lagoa do Fogo after lunch, but the winds were even stronger on this attempt. Hiking plans thwarted, we drove 25 minutes southwest to our beautiful hotel, White Exclusive Suites & Villas, and had a few wines on the terrace overlooking the sea instead. All was not lost. That evening, we dined at the hotel, Cardume Restaurant, and had the best meal of our whole trip. I can't recommend this hotel enough. ROAD TRIP DAY FOUR We enjoyed a lie in, a private Pilates session and breakfast White Exclusive Suite & Villas before we had to check out, fill up the car hire, drop the rental off and get to the airport for our flight back to London (via Lisbon). A visit to the Azores should be on everyone's list. It's a chance to immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage, explore rugged landscapes and enjoy the warm hospitality of the locals. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Driving: Roads were well paved and easy to navigate. We never drove more than about 40 minutes between sites. We saw no police. Be aware that people stop and park wherever they like. Weather: Although temperatures usually remain mild all year, the rain and cloud cover can be volatile and unpredictable. You can experience all four seasons in a day. Every time we opened the car door, we were unsure what we'd be stepping into - sun, rain, wind, cold. Attire: Bring lots of layers. It can be colder than you expect. There is no need to dress up anywhere on the island. People are mainly in hiking gear. Sustainability: The Azores is considered one of the top most sustainable travel destinations. From a focus on conservation of natural areas, hiking trails and marine life, the islands place an emphasis on renewable energy. Safety: The Azores is known to be one of the safest locations in the world. Affordability: Despite a remote location, the strong Euro and lack of mass tourism certainly help. Meals with a three-course dinner and drinks average only ~€40 per person. Azores vs Madeira: Both islands are filled with friendly people, English-speakers, stunning vistas and spectacular hiking. But I'd say that the Azores are more serene, eco-friendly and low-key in terms of modern development and tourism. The food is inferior. #açores #azores #azorean #saomiguel #pontodelgado #feteiras #relva #furnas #lagoa #portugal #setecidades

  • las fallas in valencia, spain

    As Spain's third largest city, Valencia is often, unjustly, overshadowed by Barcelona and Madrid. This hidden gem of a city is full of tradition, color, gastronomy, fire, music and joy - Particularly during Las Fallas (the city's largest celebration and one of the craziest festivals in all of Spain)! The origin of Las Fallas dates back to the 15th century, when carpenters and other artisans celebrated the additional hours of daylight gained by the arrival of spring. Their parrots (the plank of wood attached to their lanterns, used to light up workshops during the winter months) were burnt at their doors in commemoration. Craftsmen and other people from the neighborhood would feed the fire with shavings of wood, old furniture and other flammable objects. Traditions gradually evolved and the parrots were given arms and legs, to make them more human-like. Clothes, hats and other adornments were eventually added. After a period of time, the parrots became known as ninots (doll-like effigies/puppets -- a group of ninots make up a fallas or fallero monument). Ninots today often depict famous people and/or critique current affairs, with a good dose of humor, satire and creativity. There are about 800 monuments set up in Valencia's streets and squares during the festival. Each take many months to design/build and can cost thousands of Euros. Individual ninots and elements of the fallas are hand-made, using various materials like cardboard, wood, plaster, Styrofoam, polyester and papier-mâché. They are constructed in warehouses and then installed in the streets, where the finishing touches are applied. The dates of Las Fallas festivities are officially 1st - 19th March, with things really ramping up from the 15th. The final five days and nights of Fallas are one big, continuous street party with lots of noise (fireworks, sparklers, poppers, music, parades, percussions, singing and car alarms). Around midnight on March 19th, at the culmination of the Fallas festival, the effigies are reduced to ashes in a ceremony known as La Cremà (the burning). Similar to the annual US pardoning of a turkey on Thanksgiving, one ninot is selected, by popular vote, and spared from the flames. That winning ninot goes on display at the Fallero Museum. I highly recommend experiencing this spectacular event in Valencia, but if your travels don't coincide with Las Fallas, below is a closer look at some of the other things that this lovely city on the coast of Spain has to offer. EXPLORE If it's nice out (and it probably will be since Valencia gets ~300 days of sunshine a year), go to the beach to catch some rays and shoot some hoops (errrr?). Check out one of the main works of Valencian Art Nouveau at Mercado de Colón. Whilst you're there, you might as well have a delicious sangria (for ~€4) at Wine & Flowers. Stroll through Plaza de la Reina (The Queen's Square) and take in the sights and sounds. The Lonja de la Seda (Valencian Silk Exchange) is one of Spain’s most beautiful, civil Gothic buildings. It was built during the Golden Age, when the city became famous for its silk trade. The Lonja became part of the UNESCO World Heritage in 1996. I only admired the building’s exterior, but it is possible to go inside. The Plaza de la Virgen, surrounded by historic buildings, was once the forum of Roman Valencia. Select an outdoor cafe, sit back, relax, have a drink and people watch. During Fallas, numerous parades will pass by you and the plaza will be buzzing. One of Valencia’s most iconic and futuristic landmarks is its City of Arts and Sciences. This architectural jewel is one of the largest scientific and cultural complexes in all of Europe. It is composed of impressive, avant-garde buildings, shallow blue pools and elevated walkways. Even if you don't have the time or desire to explore the museums, it's worth seeing the exterior of this complex. You'll find L'Oceanogràfic (Europe's largest aquarium) located at the far end of the City of Arts and Sciences complex. It is massive and impressive, and not just for kids. You could easily spend a whole day there. Buy tickets online, in advance, to avoid the queues. Valencia has one of the best urban parks in Spain. Turia Park is the perfect place to enjoy a walk, go for a jog, play sports or cycle. Just watch out for kiddos throwing firecrackers during Las Fallas. After dinner one night, enjoy an intimate flamenco show at El Toro y La Luna. You'll be welcomed here like you're family. CONSUME Valencia is the birthplace of paella, so get your fill. I had a lunch of champions, at El Tromp Paella House, when I was by the beach. Start with the Manchego and a sangria. Then share the lobster paella. Muy delicioso! If you fancy a cocktail and maybe a small bite, when you're by the beach, pop by the saloon-style Cerveseria Fregidura Sant Patrici. Indulge in some tapas at Clann, because, well, it's Spain! Try the stuffed tomatoes, grilled vegies and melted queso at this cozy joint, on a side street near The Plaza de la Virgen. Enjoy some egg-based dishes at Ahuevo in the Old Town. If you're nearby the Arts and Sciences complex and start to feel peckish, enjoy a few starters at Contrapunto. I recommend the shrimp and artichoke appetizers. Dinner at Vuelve Carolina is a must! This bright, contemporary space offers innovative cocktails and dishes. It's Michelin-level at a fraction of the price. If you like to be on a rooftop, like I do, I suggest daytime drinks at Hotel Puerta Serranos and night-time dessert/digestifs at El Mirador rooftop at Only YOU hotel. I was unable to get a reservation at Voltereta, but it looked beautiful and had great reviews. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Accommodations: If you visit for Las Fallas, stay centrally, near a Metro station so you can get to the airport. 700 streets are shut and become pedestrianized during the festival making it difficult for taxis/Ubers to operate. Local Eats: Try the Fartons. They may have a funny name, but they are typical Valencian confectionery sweets. Elongated and glazed with sugar, they are made of flour, milk, sugar, oil, eggs and a leavening agent. Language: Valencia has its own language - Valenciano. They do speak Spanish as well. #valencia #spain #espana #europe #lasfallas

  • cartagena de indias, colombia

    Counterpoint to my usual travel style, I didn't do a whole lot during my two weeks in Cartagena. I mainly worked on my tan, read a bunch of books, took lots of naps, walked on the beach, spent quality time with my family and ate my body weight in ceviche. That said, everything I did see, do and consume was wonderful! Below is my guide to the sights, sounds and flavors of this coastal Colombian gem. EXPLORE OLD TOWN (AKA OLD CITY, WALLED CITY, HISTORICAL CENTER, EL CENTRO) The first thing I noticed within the confines of this Walled City were the bright, colorful doors and intricate knockers, which served as a charming entryway into the soul of Cartagena's eclectic Old Town. In addition to doors, the narrow streets were full of modern shops, boutique hotels, exquisite restaurants and a vibrant nightlife. The architecture and vibe felt a little like if New Orleans' French Quarter and Havana had a love-child. GETSEMANÍ Next-door to Old Town, was its edgier sibling, Getsemaní. This artsy, semi-residential enclave is famous for its street art. Formerly a seedy area, full of prostitution and crime, Getsemaní is now a hip place to soak up culture, drink rum cocktails and interact with local artists. LA TUNA FEST Not to be confused with the fish, a tuna is a group of university students from Spanish-speaking and Latin American countries who sing and play traditional instruments. The second International University Tunas Festival was hosted in Cartagena's Historic Center whilst I was visiting, which meant that there were lots of parades and entertaining street performances. ROSARIO ISLANDS A visit to Cartagena would not be complete without venturing offshore to this 27-island archipelago. The journey, by boat, takes less than two hours. Although it's choppy and wet, it's well worth it! Isla Grande, AKA Escobar Island, was once a place of escape for the famous drug baron. Here the Cocaine King built La Casa Grande, his 300-bedroom secret party mansion. After his death, in 1993, and the gradual collapse of the Medellín cartel, the Colombian government bought the island. El Patrón's former island hacienda is now abandoned, only inhabited by squatters and a family of wild pigs. During your boat tour, I recommend stopping by Aura Beach Hotel, on Isla Barú, for lunch in a rustic, yet chic, thatched-roof tiki hut, overlooking the sea. Given the opportunity, have a delicious piña colada, shaken up in front of you, by a floating bartender, in a canoe filled with spirits and garnishes. LA BOQUILLA This stretch of sand, just off the tourist trail is worth a visit, if for no other reason than to see a functioning city self-contained on a beach. You name it, it's happening here - police patrol, trash collection, restaurants, city bus stops, taxi service, paratriking, kite surfing, photo shoots and commerce. Be warned though, a cacophony of hawkers, touting everything from cervezas and ceviche to jewelry and knock-off Ray-Bans, will pester you. If you're lucky enough to catch a youth football beach game, you'll be in for treat. These hearty kids have to contend with heat, sand, no boundary lines and traffic. EAT/DRINK: Foodies, rejoice! If there's a South American paradise for gastronomy, Cartagena is it. Hidden amongst the cobbled streets of the Walled City are some of the most talented chefs in Colombia, serving up delicious food in alluring restaurants. *Be sure to book far in advance, as many of these hot tickets fill up quickly. My favorites were... CARMEN This came recommended to me by three different people and it lived up to the hype! The food was yummy and beautifully plated, the cocktails list was extensive, the service was top-notch and the live music was delightful. On a windy evening, sit in the courtyard at your own peril (below are all the items that I got assaulted by). ALMA You'll find Alma tucked inside the incredibly chic Casa San Agustin, a boutique hotel where my interior dreams have been realized. Chef Eljach blends Japanese, Italian and French culinary influences together with local ingredients and anything that lives in the sea. CANDÉ Another star in Cartagena's dining constellation is this quirky, fanciful and very cool restaurant. It felt a little Alice in Wonderland-y, in a fun way. The food was an exotic blend of Colombian, Caribbean and Spanish and the dance shows throughout the meal were a bonus. LOBO DE MAR This is a slightly less formal dining option than some others on this list. It has a warm atmosphere, with great service and fun live music. Start with the tuna tataki. BUENA VIDA MARISQUERIA The restaurant's colorful and laid-back ambiance, great food and occasional live music make it a favorite rooftop dining spot for both locals and tourists. MAREA This delightful terrace overlooks the port where party-goers embark on their booze cruises. Go for the people watching, stay for the polpo starter and mujarra with creamy coconut rice. DOÑA LOLA Housed within the Casa Lola hotel, in the happening Getsemaní neighborhood, you'll find this decadently decorated space. If you're traveling with picky kids, the hamburger is served in an elaborate and unconventional way. SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA HOTEL Have a drink in the garden at this award-winning colonial luxury hotel located in the heart of Cartagena's historic center. Sofitel revived this former monastery, which dates back to 1621, but has maintained many of the historical elements and quirks. Every day at 6pm, waiters dressed as monks put candles on the tables in the courtyard to an accompaniment of chapel music. DONJUAN This buzzy, but relaxed, jungle atmosphere is perfect for lunch or dinner. The staff were friendly, but a tad slow. CAFÉ DEL MAR Take a walk along the wall at sunset. If you can get in, have a sundowner at Cafe del Mar. This place gets PACKED, so book in advance, via What’s App, from their website. LA MULATA Expect no-frills, filling Colombian food. The menu is limited, but the food is great and reasonably priced. You'll find mostly locals and backpackers in here. ROOFTOPS We attempted to go to the Movich Hotel rooftop, but it was closed for a private event. So we went to the Sophia Hotel to try to go to their rooftop, but it was at capacity. The La Cata rooftop, in the Santa Catalina Hotel was hosting a wedding. We finally found a spot at the Mirador Gastro Bar rooftop, but there was no sunset view. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Celele, voted one of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants, was on my list, but I had to cancel my reservation. Apparently this is not to be missed though. Likewise, I did not make it to Alquimico nor El Barón (both also on the 50 Best List), despite my best intentions. With its gorgeous Old City, funky neighborhoods, picturesque beaches, and top-notch culinary and nightlife scene, Cartagena ticks all the boxes for that South American vacation you’ve been longing for. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Airline Quirk: If you fly Avianca to/from Colombia, they will make you fold your blankets and put them behind your backs for take-off. No idea why. Weather: It's always hot and humid in Cartagena. And the sun is super strong! But, from January to March, the winds provide some relief and also eliminate flying bugs. Rainy season is considered to be September-November, with October being the rainiest month. Transportation: The Old Town/Getsemaní are best explored on foot. Outside the central area taxis and Ubers are widely available and affordable (a couple bucks for a 15-20 min drive). Be warned that the cars are small and junky, often held together by duct tape. Mobiles: I was told, by many people, including locals, not to have my mobile phone put in plain site. But I must admit that I wasn’t as careful as I should have been. All was fine in my case, but it's always good to be vigilant. Safety: Despite its dark and complicated past, Cartagena is one of the safest big cities in Colombia. Crime rates have dropped drastically. It felt safe to me and I didn't run into any issues, but like any city, be cautious and careful with your belongings and have your wits about you. Water: I wasn’t cautious about drinking from the tap and brushing my teeth with tap water and I didn't get sick. Tipping: Not necessary, but appreciated. Language: The language barrier is REAL! A lot of locals do not speak English. I would suggest downloading the Google Translate app. Currency Confusion: Colombia’s official currency is the peso (abbreviated as COP). Prices in Colombia are marked with a dollar sign, but remember that you’re seeing the price in Colombian pesos, not USD. The notes official denominations are $1,000, $2,000, $5,000, $10,000, $20,000, $50,000, and $100,000, but are labeled as 1 mil, 2 mil, 5 mil, 10 mil, 20 mil, 50 mil and 100 mil. And often times the amounts are written with periods instead of commas. So ‘20 mil’, 20.000, $20,000 and 20 (veinte) are all the same thing. #cartagena #getsemani #oldtown #bocagrande #rosarioislands #pabloescobar #baru #islagrande #colombia #southamerica #spanish

  • old new year in belgrade, serbia

    Like much of the world, Serbians celebrate New Year's Day on 1st January, but they also have a second observance on 14th January. The latter is known as the Old New Year, or Orthodox New Year. It's an informal, traditional holiday that follows the Julian calendar, and falls 13 days after the Gregorian calendar's NYE. 2024 was the year I decided I'd experience two New Years, two weeks apart. Technically, Belgrade became my 25th New Year's celebration spent in a new place. Although NYE part two ended up being fairly anticlimactic, it was still a good excuse to visit a new part of the world. Belgrade, Serbia's capital, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, existing for over 7,000 years. During that time, the city has quite literally been through the wars - it has been fought over in 115 conflicts and has been destroyed and rebuilt more than 44 times. It's a resilient, interesting city, refreshingly non-globalized, but aesthetically displeasing. The communist government that came to power after the Second World War didn’t seem to pay much attention to the decorative side of things. There's not doubt that Belgrade has been around the block and seen a few things. If you want to do the same, below are my recommendations for where to stay, eat, drink and wander. ACCOMODATION: I stayed at the four-star Townhouse 27, centrally located in the historic district. This boutique hotel has been awarded a Certificate of Excellence, from TripAdvisor, for five consecutive years. It was comfortable and affordable. The staff was lovely and helpful and the free continental breakfast was more than decent. Hotel Moskva - A landmark in Belgrade, dating back to 1908. It's one of the oldest hotels still operating in Serbia. Albert Einstein, Ray Charles, Robert De Niro, Louis Armstrong, Brad Pitt, Richard Nixon, Jack Nicholson and Alfred Hitchcock are some of their famous guests. Even if you don't book a room, go and enjoy a drink and cake. FOOD/DRINK: Communale is a nice Italian joint within in Beton Hala (a former abandoned warehouse transformed into a tourist landmark, along the Sava River, with many upscale restaurants and bars). Magellan - This Michelin-recommended, fine-dining establishment is across the Sava River, in New Belgrade. It felt a little like dining on a yacht. The food was plated beautifully, the wine was delicious, the service was impeccable, and we were even given a box of truffles as a parting gift. Demokratija Cocktails - This cocktail and coffee bar was so cute, good and cheap that I went twice! Damar Tartufi - Just down the street from Demokratija was this adorable truffle shop, offering truffle tastings for €10. Included in the tasting was a few tapenades, some shaved truffles in oil, cheese, chocolate and even truffle-infused wine. Iva New Balkan Cuisine - The minimalist dining room, along with a friendly staff made this space feel immediately welcoming. The cuisine was a modern take on traditional Serbian food and was delicious. Široka Staza - You'll find this cozy seafood restaurant along the Danube River, in Zemun (the view from the restaurant is below). We stumbled upon it by accident. To get there, go to the end of Dunavska Street and descend down the stairs. It'll be on your right. If you see a cat, or eight, milling about, you'll know you're in the right place. Be sure to order the grilled perch. DO/SEE: Temple of Saint Sava - One of the most recognizable symbols in Belgrade. This beacon of faith is not only the largest Serbian Orthodox church, it is the largest Orthodox place of worship in the Balkans and one of the largest in the world. Its total height reaches 82m with the dome being 70m high. The Square of the Republic - Located in the Stari Grad municipality, this is the site of some of Belgrade's most discernible public buildings, including the National Museum, the National Theatre and the statue of Prince Michael. Zemun - A cute, bohemian district, located within the Belgrade City area, known for its cafes, late-night bars and the fish restaurants along the riverside promenade. Gardoš hill, topped by an 1896 tower, offered vast Danube and city views. Visiting felt a little like a mini-break from the main metropolis of Belgrade. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Currency: Serbia is not part of the EU and therefore does not use the Euro (although prices are often quoted in Euros, and I think Euros are accepted in some places). Its currency, the Dinar, is valued low compared to the Euro, making Belgrade a spendthrift’s dream. Hospitality: Serbians are famously hospitable. It is a custom that can be traced back to their ancient Slavic belief that a host won’t gain any favor from the gods if they are not hospitable to guests. I found people to be warm and friendly and service was pretty much flawless. Tipping: Although not obligatory, if you are satisfied with your service then leave a tip of 10-15%, in cash. Tips cannot be added on to credit cards in restaurants. Smoking: You can still smoke everywhere - even inside restaurants and bars. Blah! Taxis: Car:Go is the closest thing to Uber that Belgrade has. Sadly, I wasn't able to set up an account with my UK mobile number. The Pink Taxi app was second best, but I still needed to communicate about my destination and pay at the end of the ride (usually in cash). Split Personality: Belgrade is bisected by the Sava River and is a town of two halves: the old and the new. The majority of my visit was spent on the Old Town side. Famous Serbs: The country has produced some significant athletes and scientific minds. Nikola Jokić, regarded as one of the greatest basketball players and centers of all-time hails from Serbia. Belgrade is the hometown of one of the world’s best tennis players – Novak Djokovic. And Nikola Tesla made great discoveries in the disciplines of electric current and magnetism. #belgrade #beograd #zemun #serbia #srbija #balkans #europe #newyearseve #orthodoxnewyears

  • munching in mexico city

    From street tacos and casual cantinas to smart seafood restaurants, the Mexican capital is full of flavor. The combination of historical roots, indigenous and colonial influences as well as contemporary gastronomic trends have put CDMX and Mexican food firmly on the world's stage. And most of the city’s top chefs are women! 👊🏼 I was only in town for five days, so I had to make every meal count. Based on my consumption, below are my recommendations for a delicious culinary journey through Mexico City. Breakfast Restaurante Lardo - One of Elena Reygadas' creations (2023's world's best female chef). This cozy Mediterranean restaurant provides service at all mealtimes, but the breakfast really stands out. I highly recommend the saffron risotto with eggs, olives and pine nuts as well as the rosemary and sugar bun. Tr3s Tonala - Located in the Roma district, the quiet terrace provides a relaxing morning setting where you can enjoy typical Mexican breakfast dishes such as huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. Lunch/Dinner Cantina del Bosque - This traditional cantina, with its old school service, white tablecloths and roaming mariachi bands, has been a Condesa favorite since 1937. The salt-baked fish and the cheese and potato quesadillas are must-orders. Be sure to wash it all down with a margarita! Taqueria Orinoco - The length of the line to order is a great indication of how good this taqueria is. Don't leave without having the tacos al pastor, which are arguably the best in all of CDMX. Pigeon - After strolling through Plaza Rio de Janeiro, snag yourself a sidewalk seat at this bistro and people watch whilst sipping wine and slurping oysters. Contramar - You will find this Roma neighborhood gem packed for the entire extended Mexican 'lunch hour' (which seemingly runs from midday to about 6pm). It's a place to see and be seen, known for its fresh seafood and vibrant atmosphere. The restaurant's signature dish is the tuna tostadas. The chef, Gabriela Cámara, is kind of a big deal. In 2019, she was appointed as food advisor to Mexico's President, Andrés Manuel López Obrador. Cantón Mexicali - One of the more interesting spots in Condesa is this retro restaurant that pays homage to the Chinese immigrants of the capital of Baja California. Every Mexicali-style Chinese dish we ordered was delicious! La Gruta - If you find yourself in Mexico State (about 45-mins outside of Mexico City), by the UNESCO Teotihuacan Pyramids, be sure to pop into this mystical cave for a meal. Bring a coat as it gets chilly in the grotto. Do yourself a favor and order the guacamole and barbacoa (pit-roasted lamb) tacos. Bars/Clubs Tlecan - If you're looking for a mezcaleria run by a badass woman, this is your spot. Soho House Mexico City - Soho House opened their first location in Latin America, in September of 2023, and it's BEAUTIFUL! You have to be a member, or be with a member, to enter. New Year's Eve On 31st December 2023, my dear friend Jodi Moreno teamed up with Edo Kobayashi to cook eighteen of us a six-course meal, at a really cool, intimate chef's table. She served biscuits with chili chive butter, oysters with ginger mignonette and crispy shallots, million layer potatoes with whipped ricotta, cauliflower parmesan soup, fried chicken with salsa macha and caviar and ended it all with a mamey creme brulee. It was a truly unique and filling way to ring in the new year! I hope this list helps you navigate Mexico City's culinary tourism and captures the essence of its gastronomic prowess. Bon appétit! KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Airport Arrival: There are egates that US (and a few other) passport holders can use. Be sure to keep the printout for when you depart. Big Little City: The population is over 21 million and it's 573 square miles yet, somehow, everyone knows everyone. Weather: Temperate most of the year. A San Diego-like climate. Reservations: Book restaurants and museums well in advance. Tipping: Consider a 15% tip as standard. Water: Only drink bottled or filtered water. Ice in drinks is usually made with filtered water. Safety: Strolling around central neighborhoods like Roma, Polanco, Coyoacán or Condesa is generally safe, but always be vigilant. Police can be corrupt. Taxis: Stay away from regular taxis and opt for Uber instead. Altitude: Mexico City sits at an elevation of 2240m. You might notice you are more tired than usual after a day or two of arrival. Stay hydrated. Earthquakes: Mexico has a sophisticated seismic alarm system that gives up to a 60-second warning before an earthquake hits the city. #mexicocity #mexico #cdmx #ciudaddemexico #northamerica

  • chișinău, moldova

    Chișinău (pronounced “kee-shee-now”), the capital of Moldova, is one of the least aesthetically pleasing European capitals. Years of war and two devastating earthquakes have left it a mix of ramshackled buildings, potholed roads and soviet apartment blocks. For all you who are thinking "Moldwhere?"...It's a former Soviet state, landlocked on the far eastern edge of Europe, wedged between Romania and Ukraine. It is renowned for being the second-least visited country in the world and one of the poorest countries in Europe, by pretty much every measure. Last decade it was also famously named the least happy place in the world, in the New York Times bestseller, The Geography of Bliss: One Grump's Search for the Happiest Places in the World. After that list of accolades, you probably haven't immediately started researching flights, and I don't blame you, but, but going to Chișinău shouldn't be ruled out entirely; it does have some redeeming qualities. For one it's cheap! I mean £0.58 for a pint cheap. Visiting is also a bit like entering a strange time warp. It hasn't fully moved on yet from its Soviet past, but trendy bars and restaurants are springing up. It's a combination of old-world charm, brutalist architecture, a fascinating history and world-class wine. Speaking of wine...Although few people know where Moldova is, even fewer are aware that Moldova is significant player in the wine industry - the 11th largest producer in Europe, to be precise, with the highest per capita number of vineyards in the world. 25% of Moldova's working population are employed within the viticulture and winemaking industry. But the country is dependent on alcohol more than just economically. According to the World Health Organisation, Moldova has the highest levels of alcohol consumption, with each person, over the age of 15, consuming 15.2 litres a year (equivalent to about 167 bottles of wine)! A winery tour/tasting should be top of your list of things to do, should you choose to visit Moldova. I went to Cricova Winery, located in the small town of Cricova, 15km from the capital. After Milestii Mici, another Moldovan winery, Cricova is the second-largest wine cellar on the planet. It's most famous for producing sparkling, utilising methods made famous by French monk Dom Pérignon. The underground wine city is 250 feet below sea level and consists of a labyrinth of tunnels, stretching 120km. It's so vast that there are traffic lights and many of the underground passages have street names (such as Cabernet Street and Sauvignon Street). The “streets” and “avenues” that make up the underground booze-storage metropolis are named for the wines they store, helping tour guides navigate visitors through the network by mini-train. Among the dignitaries and world leaders who store their private wine collections at Cricova are German Chancellor Angela Merkel, US President Joe Biden and Russian President Vladimir Putin. After the tour, we sampled an array of wines in one of the facility’s extravagant tasting rooms. Ours was called “The Sea Bottom". Whilst in Moldova, don't just sample wine at the wineries though. Expand your booze horizons at the following Instagram-worthy bars: Nobil Luxury Boutique Hotel: Visit the rooftop for panoramic city views and to enjoy a lunch or an evening cocktail under the stars. I also stayed at this hotel (five-starred, by Moldovan standards, but probably more like 4* anywhere else). Zaxi Rooftop at the Radisson Blu Leogrand Hotel: Whether you go for a daytime cocktail and cityscapes or at night for bougie bottle service with sparklers and live DJ performances, you're guaranteed some good people watching. Oliva Verde: On a hot summer's day, sit in the garden and enjoy the overhead misters as you sip wine and snack on antipasto. La Sarkis: Every fancy, luxury car that I saw in Chișinău was parked in the lot at La Sarkis. The restaurant was beautifully decorated indoors and out. I didn't eat here, but the wine sure was refreshing. PIERS: This outdoor seafood restaurant, adjacent to Chișinău's manmade beach, felt less like being in landlocked Moldova and a little more like being on the coast in Spain. Eli-Pili: This bar was strange and eclectic. I wouldn't actually recommend sampling their wine, but do have a sugary cocktail and enjoy the weird decor. EscoBar: See what they did there with the name of this underground Mexican cocktail den? Also clever was Pablo hidden within their QR code drinks menu. Marlène: This cocktail bar was closing as I entered, so I wasn't able to get a drink, but it looked really cute and had an intimate Parisian atmosphere that I would have liked to have enjoyed. In between sips, I managed to do a little sightseeing walking tour. Below are the highlights. Chișinău Water Tower: Formerly the main part of Chișinău's water system, this architectural monument is now a museum dedicated to the evolution of the water supply system. Riveting stuff! Valea Morilor Park: This tranquil, leafy park has a lake with walking paths surrounding it, a beach, a theater, a playground and even a small amusement park. There are four entrances, but the waterfall staircase, consisting of 218 steps, was the most impressive. Inside the park, if you look hard enough, you can find the smallest public monument in all of Moldova - the Little Prince (the hero of a novella written by Antoine de Saint-Exupery). The statue stands only 11 centimeters/4 inches tall and can be found replacing one of the spheres on the metal fencepost surrounding the lake. touch the little bronzed prince for good luck. After you locate Little Prince, I recommend renting a paddle boat, for 130 Leu (~£6), and pedaling around the lake for 30 minutes. The Moldovan Parliament: Formerly the headquarters of the Central Committee of Moldova’s Communist Party, is today home to the country’s democratic parliament. Monument to Stephen The Great: This statue, on the edge of Ștefan cel Mare Park, commemorates Stephen III (Stephen the Great) of Moldova, who ruled for 47 years in the 15th century and was reputed to be one of the most astute rulers of Europe at that time. Triumphal Arch: Chișinău’s very own Arc de Triomphe next to the Cathedral of the Nativity, was completed in 1831 to commemorate the Russian Empire’s victory over the Ottoman Empire in the Russo-Turkish war. This compact city is edging towards real democracy and a truly European standard of living but still has an untouched charm that appeals to the few visitors who venture this far east. Enjoy it whilst it's still cheap, quirky, off the beaten track and unpoiled by bachelor parties and the budget airline brigade. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas are no longer required to enter if you plan on staying less than 90 days. Have your hotel book you an airport transfer for your arrival. Despite what the Internet says, Bolt does not operate in Moldova. Nor does Uber. They do have Yandex, but it's Russian and you won't be able to download the app if you're phone is UK or US based. There's also iTaxi, but you need a local number to complete the set up. Taxis can be hard to find and drivers don’t speak much English. Be on the lookout for overcharging as well. Always agree on fare before getting in the car and don't prepay. Many younger Moldovans spoke good English, but this was not always the case, so be prepared with a phrasebook if necessary. The official language of the Republic of Moldova is Romanian. However, most people living in the country also speak fluent Russian. The currency in Moldova is the Leu (or Lei when plural). One GBP is currently equivalent to £23 MDL and one USD to about £19 MDL. People eat dinner around 8pm. I did not rate the food very highly in Moldova, but for a traditional feast, go to La Taifas, below Vatra Neamului. Beef, pork and cabbage are staples of Moldovan cuisine. Organised crime, textiles and wine are the biggest industries in Moldova. However, many people have left to find work elsewhere. What makes the caves perfect for wine storage is a year-round temperature of about 54 degrees Fahrenheit. Dress accordingly. There was a queue to enter the airport that took about 40 minutes. And the airport does not have the capability to accept mobile boarding passes, so you will need to check-in on premise. Allow for enough time when departing to accomodate both these things. #chișinău #moldova #easterneurope #europe #soviet #wine #cricova

  • 2023 travels

    It's that time of year again -- when I reflect on the past 12 months, document the places I've visited and reminisce about travel memories, adventures and achievements. This is my tenth year writing these! If you care to low-key stalk my whereabouts for the past nine years, you can view my travel summaries here: 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 / 2019 / 2020 / 2021 / 2022. In 2023, from a travel standpoint, I was most proud of the fact that I became a member of the Travelers' Century Club (TCC) - an international non-profit social organization for travelers who have visited at least one hundred of the world's countries and territories. Enough chit chat, let’s get to recapping... JANUARY I was in Manama, Bahrain, of all places, at the start of 2023. I was only there for about 28-hours, on an extended layover, as I made my way back to London from Muscat, Oman. The short stint worked out well though because the weather was rubbish. To circumvent the dampness, I visited the man-made Reef Island for lunch and then visited Gold City, where I treated myself to something sparkly to ring (💍) in the new year. In an attempt to combat the bleak, post-festive slump that the UK bestows upon its residents in January, I escaped for a weekend to the picturesque seaside Tunisian village known as Sidi Bou Säid (which means "Little Paradise"). It bears a striking resemblance to Santorini, with its white and blue architecture. It wasn't quite as warm as I had hoped it would be, but it sure was beautiful...and inexpensive. FEBRUARY The whole month of February was spent with my family in Madeira, Portugal. I had been once before, but only for a weekend. This time, I got to know the island more intimately and really took advantage of all the eating, drinking, hiking and Carnival festivities that Madeira had to offer! MARCH Aside from one countryside weekend spent enjoying long doggie walks, cherry blossom blooms and lazy pub lunches, I stayed put so I could catch up on life admin and with friends after being gone the entire previous month. APRIL Over the four-day Easter break, I enjoyed the historic sights, winding alleyways, shopping, buzzing riverside and distinctive cuisine that made Lyon, France a perfect destination for a long weekend. At the end of the month, I jetted off to Ibiza, Spain, with a group, to celebrate a friend's birthday. I was pleased to find the island to be just as fun and beautiful as I remembered it from previous visits. MAY On 6th May 2023, the UK celebrated its first royal Coronation since 1953. The Prime Minister proclaimed Monday, 8th May 2023 an additional UK bank holiday, in honor of His Majesty King Charles III. I took advantage of the extra day off and utilized it as part of a wider France wine tasting tour - in which I visited various châteaus throughout Bordeaux, Saint Émilion, Beaujolais, Sancerre, Chablis and Paris. JUNE Because I had to renew my work visa (for the final time), I was forced to remain stationary and wasn't able to leave the country for what ended up being ten consecutive weeks. I used this time to partake in all of London's summer offerings. I played a fair bit of tennis, picnicked with friends, visited Wisely Gardens, took a boat trip down the Thames, watched Wether at the Royal Opera House and attended the Cinch Championships tennis finals. I also dined at Le Petit Chef, which wasn't the most delicious tasting menu I've ever consumed, but it was a fun concept. This theatrical experience used 3D projection mapping and holograms to take me on an immersive culinary journey with the world's smallest chef, as he cooked right on my table, and found himself in precarious situations along the way. JULY I was lucky enough to score a pair of tickets to Wimbledon on the men's singles finals day. This was my fifth time attending the Grand Slam tournament and I love it more and more every time. I also had the pleasure of experiencing the relentless conditions that the heatwave of 2023 behest upon Spain when I visited Madrid & Toledo. Watching the peacocks display their feathers in Retiro Park was one of the highlights, but there were many culinary delights along the way as well. AUGUST For a week of relaxation (despite still having to work), I went to my aunt and uncle's new house in Pine River Pond, New Hampshire, USA. I thoroughly enjoyed lake life and got to see some spectacular sunrises and sunsets. After New Hampshire, I spent a week in Connecticut, catching up with friends and family. There seemed to be a bit of an unintentional sunflower theme during my time in CT, inclusive of a maze and vase painting. SEPTEMBER There are a myriad of reasons to love travel within the Autumn shoulder season, not least of which includes temperate weather nearly globally, fewer crowds/kiddos and lower costs on flights and lodgings. This year's trip between the peak and off-seasons was spent in Southeast Asia. I was in Singapore for one day/night, to visit a friend. I hadn't visited in 13 years, so there was a lot to see and do during my short stay. Then, it was onward to Indonesia, where I monkeyed around Bali, Nusa Penida, Borneo, Java and the Komodo National Park islands, for the better part of three weeks. Immediately following my Southeast Asia trip, I went to Athens, Greece, to top up my tan and eat all the Greek food. I heard mixed reviews about Athens before visiting, and, although it was gritty, I really enjoyed it. OCTOBER I got into the Halloween spirit in Romania. I stayed in Bucharest but made a special trip out to Bran Castle (home of Dracula). COVID may not have been working against the travel industry so much anymore, but other setbacks started to rear their ugly heads. This time, in the form of a recession, bedbugs and war. I had three, back-to-back, trips canceled in October due to circumstances relating to these issues - Prague, Amsterdam and Paris. NOVEMBER On 18th November, I hit the Big Apple for a couple of wild nights, before taking the train to Connecticut to celebrate Thanksgiving. It's always a hectic, but fun and delicious week filled with family, friends, gratefulness and carbs. This year, I was extra thankful for the special guests who surprised us from Florida and Georgia. DECEMBER After the craziness in New York and Connecticut, it was off to Barbados, for a full week of R & R. Beautiful beaches, clear sea, delicious seafood, boats, sunsets, rum, lovely people and swimming with turtles were just a few of the many highlights! My 24th consecutive New Year's Eve away was spent munching my way through in Mexico City, Mexico with my dear friend from university! 2023 was great for me personally, travel-wise, but it was a weird year overall. There were many world changes - natural disasters, economic turmoil, humanitarian crises and the ravages of terrorism, conflict and war. Hopefully next year will be calmer and simpler and full of further explorations for everyone! STATS FROM 2023 TRAVELS: Trips: 13 (14 in 2022) Air Miles Flown: 60,027 (2.4x around the world) Airline Segments Flown: 34 (29 in 2022) Airlines Flown: 10 (10 in 2022) Amount of Time Spent in the Air: 132 hours (121 in 2022) Total Countries Visited: 12 (16 in 2022) New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 5 (7 in 2022) Continents Visited: 4 (North America, Asia, Africa & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hired Accommodation: 84 (60 in 2022) #yearinreview #yearintravel #2023 #manama #bahrain #middleeast #sidibousäid #tunisia #africa #northafrica #funchal #madeira #portugal #lyon #france #casablanca #morocco #ibiza #formentera #spain #balearicislands #france #bordeaux #saintemilion #beaujolais #loirevalley #sancerre #paris #winetasting #madrid #toledo #spain #newhampshire #connecticut #usa #northamerica #singapore #indonesia #bali #borneo #nusapenida #java #komodonationalparkislands #floresisland #asia #southeastasia #athens #greece #bucharest #romania #newyork #newyorkcity #europe #barbados #caribbean #mexicocity #mexico

  • cancellations, cancellations and more cancellations

    Four weeks ago, I stood shocked, unsettled and saddened by London Heathrow's departures board. There were exactly seven flights departing from one of the world's busiest airports, on a Sunday evening. I was one of approximately ten passengers flying from London to Munich as the Coronavirus epidemic ramped up and the world began to shut down. I never thought I would say this, but I'm actually starting to miss some of the in-flight things that typically annoy me -- the people who are incapable of putting a number and a letter together to locate their assigned seat, those who linger in the aisles when everyone is trying to board, the mouth breathers, the fidgetters, the chatters (who insist on talking to you, even when when you're wearing headphones), even the crying babies. Okay, I lie, I'm not at all missing the crying babies. 28-days into quarantine and every single one of my 2020 travel plans have systematically unraveled. I've spent countless hours undoing all my meticulous planning. I've had to request refunds from hotels, airlines, tours, car hire companies, restaurants and airport transfers, for the following trips: 13th - 15th March: Tirana, Albania 20th - 27th March: London, UK 2nd - 6th April: Georgia & Armenia 10th - 13th April: Reykjavik, Iceland 16th - 20th April: Western Romania Road Trip 24th - 26th April: Madeira, Portugal 1st - 3rd May: Leeds, UK 5th - 10th May: Bulgaria Road Trip, with a stopover in London 16th - 25th May: Germany, Austria and Czech Republic Road Trip 28th May - 1st June: London, UK 19th - 22nd June: Corfu, Greece 24th - 26th July: London, UK In general, companies have been accommodating with cancellations, apart from the airlines. They have been difficult to deal with and keep trying to weasel their way out refunding people for flights they are cancelling, which, by the way, is illegal in the EU. I have dealt with nine different airlines so far and I can confirm they are not all equally terrible. Lufthansa has been, by far, the worst and British Airways has been the best in terms of speedy refunds and friendly customer service. The option to reschedule or get a voucher is quite easy, but refund options have been eliminated or buried deep within websites. The way I see it, the landscape is too uncertain to reschedule for later in the year and why would I want a voucher for an airline that may or may not even be in business much longer? If you want a refund, you must call and it's nearly impossible to get through to customer service, due to 'higher than normal call volumes'. Some automated systems hang up on you unless your flight is in the next 48 hours, leaving you no option to speak with a representative. Things are even more difficult if you were unlucky enough to have booked through a third party (Opodo, Dream World Travel, Expedia, etc.), rather than direct. The last time I have been flightless for this amount of time was three years ago, as I convalesced from a car accident. I feel like a bird whose flight feathers have been clipped and is grounded until the plumage becomes intact again, which could range anywhere from several months, up to years. I worry how humanity and travel will be impacted long-term. Will travel surge after stay-at-home orders are lifted or will people rethink things and only take meaningful trips? Will work travel be re-evaluated and limited, once work from home requirements are lifted, because people realize that face-to-face meetings aren't as necessary as they were once thought to be? How long will curfews and social gathering bans stick around for? How will accommodation, food and beverage services, recreation and entertainment, transportation and travel services be impacted? Will travel insurance policies be amended to specifically include or exclude pandemics moving forward? Will COVID-19 testing upon entry be required in most countries? Will visitors be required to quarantine upon arrival in certain destinations? Will certificates of immunity be required (once there is a vaccination)? Will visas be stricter or more relaxed? Will travel prices rise or fall as a result? A lot remains to be seen, but I personally can not wait for my wings to regrow and to start putting mileage on my tiny green shoes again. Stay safe, healthy and sane!!

  • roaming around romania

    Romania is a country that is often overlooked as a travel destination, despite its rich history, diverse landscapes, affordability and many myths and legends. Its capital, Bucharest, architecturally experienced its heyday between the First and Second World Wars, when French-inspired designers transformed it into a grand city. A good portion of the Belle Époque buildings were destroyed by World War II bombings and many more by the 7.2 magnitude earthquake in 1977. In the 1980's, dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu undertook a demolition and rebuilding program to create a Socialist capital, resulting in mostly rectangular, concrete blocks, devoid of decoration or individuality. Since the fall of the Communist regime, in 1989, the city has evolved, but scars from the past remain - many in the form of eyesore structures. As Bucharest continues to emerge from its Soviet times, it still is not a conventionally beautiful city, but what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in grit, determination, edgy spirit and a vibrant nightlife. I'd recommend spending a short while here before dashing off to find Dracula in Transylvania. BUCHAREST Stay Housed in the former building of Romania’s most influential bank during the late 19th century, the five-star Marmorosch Hotel is expansive and opulent. It features 217 rooms, four ballrooms, a pair of bars (be sure to have a drink in the Vault Bar), a fitness center and a spa with an indoor pool. It's located on the edge of Old Town, just 30-minutes from the airport. Sightsee Bucharest's pedestrian 'Old Town' is one of the youngest Old Towns in the world, with renovations only completing in 2011. What is now a touristy, nightlife-infused hub of Eastern Europe was a derelict and dangerous district of Romania’s capital at the turn of the 21st century. It's full of bachelor parties, cafes, pubs, clubs, restaurants and shops. You won't be able to miss the city's most notorious landmark - the Casa Poporului (also known as the People's House or People's Palace). It is the second largest administrative building in the world, after the Pentagon. One-sixth of Bucharest's land area was cleared, and 40,000 residents displaced, to make way for this building. It measures 365,000 square meters and contains 1,100 rooms. This colossal structure was commissioned by Nicolae Ceaușescu to reflect communist values. He was executed before it was finished though, and, in an ironic twist, this oversized symbol of communism became the headquarters of Parliament, a key democratic institution. Bulevardul Unirii (Union Boulevard), which was constructed at the same time as the Casa Poporului, connects the Palace with Unirii Square. Be sure to visit the Urban Fountains, at night, to witness the Water Symphony. The show runs every Friday, Saturday and Sunday between May and October. Consume If you are looking for traditional Romanian cuisine, stop by Caru’ cu bere for a meal. It is the oldest restaurant in Bucharest and its atmosphere is authentic. The establishment is known for its richly decorated interior, its large portions and live music/dancing. If you want a bird's-eye view of Bucharest, grab a cocktail at Amethyst Sky Bar (atop the Union Plaza Hotel). TRANSLYVANIA DAY TOUR Your tour will start with a 7:30am pick up at Hilton Garden Inn Bucharest Old Town. It's about a two-and-a-quarter-hour drive to your first stop: Peles Castle. Nestled at the foot of the Bucegi Mountains, in the picturesque town of Sinaia, Peles Castle is a masterpiece of German new-Renaissance architecture. Commissioned by King Carol I in 1873 and completed in 1883, this castle served as the summer residence of Romania's royal family, until 1947. It boasts 160 rooms, all adorned with the fine European artwork, paintings, chandeliers and stained-glass. Each room is decorated in a different theme. From Sinaia, you'll motor on for about another hour, to Brasov (a city in the southern Transylvania region of Romania). There you can see the Black Church (it's not actually black, but its exterior was somewhat blackened by a fire in 1689) and then you'll have lunch in the cute Old Townhall Square. Another 30-minutes further into Transylvania will bring you to Bran Castle, where you can experience all the history, myths and intrigue of Count Dracula - a fictitious character created by author Bram Stoker, in 1897. Vlad III Draculea also known as Vlad the Impaler (Vlad Tepes in Romanian) was the historical figure whom the literary character was loosely based upon. Vlad was a brutal, sadistic leader famous for torturing and killing his enemies, mainly by impalement. Because Bran Castle is the only castle in all of Transylvania that actually fits Stoker’s description of Dracula’s Castle, it is known throughout the world as Dracula’s Castle. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Getting Around: People drive on the right-hand side of the road. The roads are in very good condition. You can use Bolt and Uber ride-hailing apps to get around Bucharest easily and cheaply. Electrical: You'll need standard European plugs/adaptors in Romania (two round prongs). Tipping: Tips are not included on bills and servers like to remind their patrons. It's become expected that tourists leave small tips - 10–15%. Drinking Water: Tap water is drinkable. Currency: Although Romania is in the EU, it has not adopted the euro. They still use the Romanian leu or lei as their currency. Banknotes come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 although the 200 and 500 RON notes are seldom used. Homeless: Romania have a high rate of homeless. Don’t engage with the beggars, as they can become quite aggressive. #bucharest #sinaia #brașov #transylvania #pelescastle #brancastle #blackchurch #romania #easterneurope #europe #dracula

  • unexpected athens

    Is Athens gritty and graffiti-ridden? Yes. Is it also rich in history, artifacts, culture, heritage and cuisine? For sure. Is it worth Visiting? Absolutely! Athens is one of the oldest cities and longest inhabited cities in the world, dating back thousands of years. It has gifted the world with democracy, trial by jury, theater, the Olympics and clock towers. Most people quickly stop through the Greek capital, en route to the islands, but it has a lot to offer and is worth a dedicated itinerary of its own. Below are my endorsements... Stay The Foundry Suites: I initially looked at this hotel as a joke (my travel buddy and I both work for a company called Foundry). But, after clicking around only a short while, I booked it. Centrally located in Psyrri (a vibrant, edgy and gentrified district), this boutiquey accommodation is not your standard hotel. They have only 12 luxury, industrial-style lofts and offer a slew of cute amenities. TV's have been swapped for record players in the suites. For breakfast, which is included, you pick your menu and then an adorable picnic basket arrives at the time of your choosing, either to your room or to you on the roof terrace. A free welcome beverage, that you can enjoy any time during your stay, is provided. The staff are lovely and helpful. Oh, and it's super affordable! Historic Sites No trip to Athens is complete without visiting the Acropolis. I suggest booking your tickets in advance, for 8:00am (the first available slot), when there's a chance of smaller crowds. Don't bother showing up too early because they won't let you enter more than 15-minutes prior to your allotted time. Leave your stilettos at home, ladies. Since 2009, it's forbidden to wear heals when you're touring ancient monuments in Athens, because of concerns about scratching and damaging the stones. This ancient citadel consists of several important buildings, including the Parthenon and the Temple of Athena. During a visit to this iconic landmark, you can still see the age-old statues, beautiful ionic columns and old temples of worship. I suggest also visiting the Panathenaic Stadium. It's far less busy than the Acropolis and really neat. You can buy tickets onsite, for €10. Built in 330 BC, this stadium was home to the first modern Olympic Games, in 1896, and remains the only arena in the world built entirely out of marble. Don't miss the “Memories from Olympic Games: Posters and Torches from 1896 till today” permanent exhibition, which can be accessed through the tunnel located towards the rear of the stadium. Neighborhoods Right under the Acropolis sits a little village called The Plaka. Most of the streets are car-free, apart from the occasional motorbike/delivery truck. It's commercialized but has clean, picturesque streets and a ton of bustling cafes. Spend an hour or so café-hopping and taking photos of all of the colors. Adjacent to Plaka, you'll find the 19th-century neighborhood known as Anafiotika. The hustle and bustle of the city center melts away here. The cobblestoned alleys, white-washed walls, coloful doors and fuchsia bougainvillea will make you forget you're in the heart of a busy metropolitan city. Food/Drink If you're looking for one of the most Instagramable spots in Athens, look no further than Little Kook. It's not just a café; it's an experience. Serving mainly coffee and cakes, I don't necessarily recommend eating here, but definitely go have a look. The extravagant and quirky decorations change regularly and vary according to season (Valentine's Day, Halloween, Christmas, etc.). The Athenians do seem to love a theme. And once they pick one, they really commit! Noel is another of these overly-themed venues. Here, the magic of Christmas lasts all year. It's a nice place to go and have a drink, if you're feeling festive. I stumbled upon Thes "Greek creative cuisine", in search for lunch, and it was a great find! The flavors are fresh and bold, the atmosphere is chic and modern and the staff is friendly and attentive. Whether you’re in the mood for something light or something hearty, Thes has what you need. Make sure you order the Naxos Potatoes Triple Cooked. Boo! is an all-day cocktail bar, right in the beating heart of Athens. Its combination of wooden furniture and unique furnishings creates an eccentric and cozy atmosphere. Clumbsies is #19 on the World's 50 Best Bars list. Outside, it just looks like a house, with no signage. Inside, it's a cocktail lover’s paradise. The Attic Urban Rooftop has a sophisticated, contemporary, bohemian design and an unobstructed view of the Acropolis. Visit for a coffee or brunch in the morning, a sunny lunch, a highly Instagramable sunset drink on the flower-decorated swings or a stylish-casual dining and some tunes in the evening. Set in a restored neoclassical villa, Aleria is an elegant and delicious place to have dinner. The Greek cuisine is beautifully presented in two tasting menus (both with 5- or 6-course options): one 'Earth & Sea', the other, 'Garden & Nature'. The courtyard is beautiful, and the service is slick. T The view of the Acropolis from Strofi's roof terrace is one of the most impressive in town. Expect classic Greek dishes, white linen tablecloths and romantic vibes. Beach The beach isn't usually what springs to mind when you think of Athens, but like so many things about this diverse city, it is one of the many delights on offer. If it's nice weather, be sure to spend a day in the Athens Riviera. I went to Varkiza Resort Seaesta, which took about 30-minutes by cab. Athens is often overlooked and overshadowed by more glamorous European capitals and its own beautiful islands, but it boasts plenty of things to see, do and experience. Don't discount this destination for a city break. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Getting Around: People drive on the right-hand side of the road. You can use Free Now and Uber ride-hailing apps to get around easily and cheaply. Electrical: You'll need standard European plugs/adaptors in Greece (two round prongs). Tipping: There is not a strong tradition of tipping in Greece, particularly among the locals, but it's become expected that tourists leave small tips. 10–15% is standard. Drinking Water: Tap water is drinkable. Currency: Greece is a member of the Eurozone and its official currency is the Euro (€). #athens #ancientgreece #greece #europe #acropolis #parthenon #panathenaicstadium

  • monkeying around in indonesia

    More than 18,000 islands and 50 species of primates make up the archipelago of Indonesia. It's a country full of natural beauty, rare animals and warm, hospitable people. Over the course of two and a half weeks, I visited ten islands, got attacked by two monkeys and was urinated on by one orangutan. What an adventure! Read on for my recommendations, broken out by location and peppered with monkey tales. Quick Links: 1 Bali: 1.1 Ubud 1.2 Nusa Dua 2 Nusa Penida 3 Borneo: Pangkalan Bun 4 Java: Surabaya 5 Komodo National Park: 5.1 Flores Island 5.2 Padar Island 5.3 Komodo Island 5.4 Taka Makassar Island 5.5 Manta Point 5.6 Kanawa Island 6 Know Before You Go In anticipation of my Indo trip, Bali was the bit that I was most excited about visiting, but it ended up being the most disappointing. I can see why influencers, looking to promote their picture-perfect lifestyles, are drawn to Bali's beauty, but overtourism is tainting the island. The infrastructure is not robust enough to cope with the traffic nor waste management, there is incessant construction to keep pace with the demand, peaceful atmospheres have been ruined by badly behaved tourists, and, most upsetting of all, is the sorrowful amount of litter. That all said, with realistic expectations, research and a bit of patience, you can still find moments of tranquility in Bali. UBUD: Located in the uplands of Bali, Ubud is famous for its 'Eat, Pray, Love' vibes, wood carvings, Hindu temples, lush jungles, terraced rice fields, waterfalls and a whole lot of monkey business. Central Ubud is abuzz with motorbikes and young visitors searching for balance and harmony. Whilst in Ubud, I would recommend hiring a driver or booking a series of tours that include the following sights: Tanah Lot: This ancient Hindu shrine is famed for its unique offshore setting, perched on top of an outcrop amidst crashing waves. Ulan Danu Temple: A temple floating along the banks of Lake Bratan, devoted to the Hindu gods Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Tirta Empul Temple: One of the busiest and oldest (it's been around more than 1,000 years) sacred water temples in Indonesia. You'll find shrines, gates, courtyards and purification pools where hordes of people 'baptize' themselves underneath a succession of waterspouts. Jatiluwih Rice Terraces: Over 600 hectares of lush green paddy fields cascade in tiers from the mountains down to the valleys. In recognition of the ancient rice-growing culture, these fields became listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2012. Wanagiri Hidden Hill: Also known as 'selfie peak', panoramic views from up here are very popular amongst Instagrammers. We were planning to give it a miss as visibility was restricted by a foggy mist, but we ended up getting suckered into feeding some monkeys a bowl of bananas and peanuts (for about $1.30). At first, I wasn't that keen on getting so close to the Macaques, but it ended up being a hoot. Monkey Forest: Home to over 1,000 long-tailed monkeys, this sanctuary is one of the most well-known and visited places in Ubud. For a fee, the staff will take photos of you with a monkey on your lap. Be careful though, the monkeys are known to steal mobile phones, jewellery and sunglasses. They also can attack, if they feel threatened. Don't make eye contact nor smile with your teeth showing, as these are signs of aggression in the non-human world. Kemenuh Butterfly Park: Over 500 butterfly specimens flutter around you as you meander on paved pathways through a garden enclosure – all covered by netted canopies. It's very beautiful and serene, and not overrun with tourists...yet. Banyumala Twin Waterfalls: This is another place that, so far, hasn't been discovered by the masses. From the car park it's about a 20-minute walk, down steep steps to get to the waterfall. There are a few sketchy bamboo stairs, and it can be tough on the way back up! Tegenungan Waterfall: Opposite to Banyumala, this waterfall is heaving with tourists. It's one of the busiest and most famous falls in Bali. Swing Heaven: Swing parks, around Bali, allowing people to soar high above magnificent vistas, have become one of the most popular attractions on the island as a result of the Instagram craze. I was curious, so I decided to check one out. Swing Heaven was recommended, so off I went. There are various packages offered, at different price points. They will even rent you a flowy dress, if that is your desire. I found it all a bit silly, but I must admit that I had fun. After you've got your fill of sightseeing, fill your belly at the following Ubud restaurants: Swept Away: Upon arrival at the Samaya Hotel, a golf cart will shuttle you down to the restaurant, which is situated along bank of the Ayung River. You'll be treated a romantic setting, the peaceful sound of babbling water and delicious food. Sayan House: The cuisine is an interesting mix of Balinese, Japanese and Mexican (think sashimi tacos and guacamole rolls). It sounds weird, but it works. Book in advance and arrive in time to enjoy the sunset. Hujan Locale: This is one of Will Meyrick's creations (a Scottish celebrity chef, born in Portugal, based in Bali). The main dining room is on the second floor, surrounded by large windows, overlooking a Balinese temple. I liked its family-style grazing menu concept. Be sure to order the scallop ceviche, tuna betel leaf and braised beef rawon. Cafe Lotus: This restaurant overlooks a beautiful lotus pond and the iconic Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati (Water Palace). If you go for dinner on a Wednesday, you'll get a free traditional dance show along with your meal (show starts at 7:30pm). NUSA DUA This area of Bali is perfect for families, honeymooners and travelers who want to enjoy the perks of large luxurious resorts. It is a gated area, developed in the 1970’s, and is known for its fancy hotels, serenity, manicured gardens, golf and spas. If you're into lavish 5-star beachfront accommodations, with meticulously landscaped grounds, set against white sands bordering the Indian Ocean, then you might want to consider staying at the Sofitel. What I found most unique about the hotel was the swim-out rooms, which I had never seen before. Many of their ground-level rooms allow you to literally roll of out of bed and slide into a lagoon-like plunge waterway system. It's only 3.5' deep, so you can walk, float or swim directly to the main pool. Whilst in Nusa Dua, make sure you go to the Kecak Fire Dance Show at Uluwatu temple. You must pay an admission fee to enter the temple (40,000 IDR), separate to the fee for the show (100,000 IDR). The temple doesn’t accept plastic so make sure to bring enough cash. I recommend buying the ticket for the show in advance though, as it sells out very quickly, every night. Sarongs are provided at entry to the temple, for everyone to wear - men and women. Watch out for the monkeys walking around the complex. The primates are EVERYWHERE and WILL steal your snacks. They have acquired a taste for human food and can get aggressive if they don’t get what they want. One cheeky fella disrobed me in an attempt to get at my grocery bag. Luckily, he only got away with my sarong and some Pringles in the end. From Nusa Dua, we went on a one-day tour around Nusa Penida. We took a fast boat from Sanur, which took about 45-mins. Once we arrived, we had a private driver take us around to the following places: Kelingking Beach: The unique rock formation on this beach resembles the backbone of a dinosaur. It’s even nicknamed 'T-Rex Bay' on Google Maps. Broken Beach AKA Pasih Uug Beach: This horseshoe-shaped cove's limestone archway has been carved out by the water over the years. You cannot swim here; you can only admire it from the viewing area above. Angel's Billabong: Located right next to Broken Beach, this beautiful rockpool is a natural infinity pool that sits between rocky cliffs and the Indian Ocean. Many holidaymakers have perished trying to swim in it, so I recommend you keep your feet firmly planted on sturdy ground. Virgin Beach Club: We ended the tour relaxing at this beachfront restaurant, where we enjoyed swinging, sunning, shell searching and strawberry daiquiris. PANGKALAN BUN If you were to fly the 55-minutes from Bali to Surabaya you'd land five minutes before you took off, as a result of a one-hour time difference. After a short layover and a slight delay, we took another flight to Indonesian Borneo -- *Fun fact: Borneo is not a country; it is an island that is politically divided amongst three nations: Indonesia, Malaysia and Brunei. Of the three, Brunei is the only sovereign state situated entirely on the island. I spent the second flight, from Surabaya to Pangkalan Bun, reflecting on a time, 23 years ago, when the first ever series of Survivor aired. I remembered being intrigued by the remoteness of Borneo and mentally adding it to my bucket list. Whilst I was pleased not to be stranded in an isolated location, battling other contestants for food, shelter and fire, I certainly felt like I was going on quite an adventure! Pangakalan Bun was the jumping off point for our orangutan tour. We stayed at the Grand Kecubung Hotel, for one night, before the tour began. It was nicer than I expected it to be, but I was surprised to find out that there was no alcohol served onsite. I was even more surprised to learn that you cannot buy alcohol anywhere in Pangkalan Bun, because of Muslim customs. The next morning, we were collected around 10am to begin our dry three-day/two-night private tour aboard a klotok (a traditional river houseboat). We booked through a company called Be Borneo, but there were many tour operators to choose from (which all seem pretty similar). We had a staff of four onboard with us (a guide, a chef, a captain and a deckhand/wildlife spotter). Our tour guide, TeeTee, was awesome, but I would consider booking a boat with air conditioning if I had to do it all over again. The day light hours were spent relaxing to sounds of the jungle as we wound down the lazy Sekonyer River, into Tanjung Puting National Park. All our meals were prepared for us onboard and were abundant and delicious. We made the mistake of leaving a box of cookies out on the table one afternoon, which were never to be seen again, as a result of thieving monkeys. A couple of times a day, we would disembark for jungle walks and to observe orangutan feedings. The comedic apes swung effortlessly through the trees, like Tarzan, whilst consuming a mixture of sweet potatoes, mangos and sugar cane. Some of these primates were more generous than others with sharing their food. In Malay, orangutan means ‘man of the forest’. Albert, a particularly large male orangutan, verified the namesake when he walked directly at me, climbed a tree about three feet away (staring at me the whole time), made himself comfortable on a branch directly above me and then relieved his bladder. At night we played cards by candlelight, watched fireflies light up trees like twinkle lights, stargazed, doused ourselves in bug repellent and tried our best to sleep in the heat (on mats laid out on the deck of the boat, surrounded by mosquito netting). SURABAYA After three days of bug repellent build-up, sweating and not showering, we were pleased to arrive at the luxurious Shangri-La. We didn't do much, other than shower and bask in the joy of our newfound cleanliness. Komodo National Park is made up of 29 islands including Rinca, Padar and Komodo. It has been UNESCO protected since 1991. FLORES ISLAND The gateway to Komodo National Park is via Labuan Bajo, on Flores Island. It's often hidden in the shadows of its more famous neighbor, Bali, but is a lot more fascinating and charming. We stayed at the boutiquey and lovely Komodo Sudamala Resort, which I highly recommend. The 16-person speedboat excursion we went on, from Labuan Bajo, was my favorite! We saw so much and every stop was incredible. PADAR ISLAND This first stop on this daytrip was Padar, for an early morning hike up about 700 steps. There was no shade and it was sweaty work, but we were rewarded with spectacular views of what looked like Jurassic Park. It took about 30-minutes to climb and another 30 to descend. Next up was Pink Beach, on the north side of the island, reached by a short boat ride. The pink hue comes from tiny single-celled red organisms (foraminifera) that grow beneath the coral reefs. When these organisms die, they fall to the ocean floor and mix with bits of coral and crushed shell. The sand turns pink when this mixture washes onto the beach. KOMODO ISLAND Stop number three was the volcanic island that is home to the beastly and prehistoric Komodo dragons. They exist nowhere else in the world. We were lucky enough to see four adults and one baby. The babies are a particularly rare sight because as soon as they hatch, they climb up trees to avoid being eaten by their mother (savage, right?!). They don't usually come back until they are four years old and about four feet long. TAKA MAKASSAR ISLAND Also known as the ‘Maldives of Indonesia’, this island is smaller than a football field. The crescent-shaped sandbar is surrounded by shallow turquoise waters that look unreal! MANTA POINT This isn't technically an island, but, as the name implies, Manta Point is where manta rays can be spotted. It's a popular location to meet these gentle marine giants. KANAWA ISLAND Our final stop was the quiet and pristine Kanawa Beach. Its turquoise water was exceptionally calm and clear. Swimming and snorkeling are the most popular activities here. Indo has a bit of everything - beautiful beaches, deep seas, volcanoes, tropical rainforests, mountains, unique creatures, culture, good food, temples, world-class diving, friendly people and the most expensive coffee in the world (Google Kopi Luwak). What more could a tourist want?! I know that many people would feel short-changed going all the way to Indonesia and not visiting Bali, but please remember there is a lot more to this far-flung archipelago than just Bali. I recommend squeezing in as much variety and exoticism as possible. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Arrival: 96 nationalities may now enter Indonesia for up to 30-days, using a single entry Visa on Arrival (VoA). It can be attained at the airport and you can pay using cash or card, in various currencies. You will also need to complete an online customs form, which will generate a QR code that needs to be scanned before you can leave the airport. Getting Around: The Grab ride-hailing app can be used to get around Bali quick, cheap and easy. On other islands you'll need to arrange taxis through your hotel or just hail them the old-fashioned way. Driving: Indonesia drive on the left. There is a lot of traffic and motorbikes are everywhere. It is very chaotic on the roads, especially in Bali. You'll hear a lot of horn honking, but it's used more for safety and as a precaution, as opposed to aggressive rage. Electrical: EU on most islands (two round prongs), but I saw UK plugs (with three square prongs) in Surabaya. I'd recommend bringing both. Weather: There are typically two seasons - wet and dry - with warm tropical temperatures averaging 28°C during the day, throughout the year. In most regions, the dry season spans from May to September, with the rains falling between October and April. Tipping: Generally, this is not mandatory, but there is a government tax of 10% added to the bill in most restaurants and hotels. Since base salaries are low and service workers seek tips to provide extra income, it's best to tip if you're happy with your service. Drinking Water: Tap water isn't drinkable. You should always opt for bottled, filtered or boiled water, for drinking and brushing your teeth. Eating: I was surprised to learn that Indonesians do not eat with chopsticks. Instead they push food onto a spoon, using a fork. Food was mostly fried and could be very spicy. Mosquitos: Bring repellent and after bite care. Language: Indonesian is the official language of Indonesia, but there are 700-800 languages spoken in Indonesia according to the 2010 census. Most islands have their own language as well. Religion: The Indonesian government recognizes six religions: Islam, Protestantism, Catholicism, Hinduism, Buddhism and Confucianism. Bali was predominantly Hindu, Flores is mostly Catholic, but most other islands I visited were Muslim. Currency: The Indonesian Rupiah. Notes come in 1000, 2000, 5000, 10.000, 20.000, 50.000 and 100.000. You will need cash more than you think (there are admission fees, donations and lots of small tips). ATMs limit how much you can withdraw, so get cash whenever you have an opportunity. #indonesia #bali #ubud #nusadua #nusapenida #borneo #pangkalanbun #surabaya #java #komodonationalpark #floresisland #padarisland #komodoisland #takamakassarisland #mantapoint #kanawaisland #kelingkingbeach #brokenbeach #pasihuugbeach #angelsbillabong #tanjungputingnationalpark #orangutan #asia #southeastasia #monkey #primate #temple #ricefield #ricepaddy #riceterrace #waterfall #swing #lotuspond

  • instant asia

    Singapore is the only place in the world that is a city, a state and an island. Its diversity (mainly Malay, Chinese, Indian and Eurasian) makes it a nation richly varied in heritage, cuisine, art and architecture. It has earned the nickname 'instant Asia' because it offers tourists a quick glimpse of the sights, tastes and cultures of all of Asia's main ethnic groups. 'Quick glimpse' described my fleeting visit perfectly. I went for only one day and one night, en route to longer trip around Indonesia. The short stopover was arranged purely to see a friend, check out a few landmarks that didn't exist the previous times I've visited and to enjoy Singapore's dynamic food/beverage scene. I landed bright and early on Friday morning. Luckily I was able to check into my sexy hotel straight away (Vagabond Club), allowing me to quickly clean up and get on with my full day. The first stop on my whirlwind daytrip was the Marina Bay Sands (which is new since that last time I was in Singapore). This extravagant three-columned building combines an ultra-luxury hotel with designer shops, upscale restaurants/bars, a casino, a theater, a nightclub and even a museum. The Sands SkyPark straddles the top of all three towers and provides cityscape views. There is a pool at the top as well, but access is limited to hotel guests only. Despite the scorching temperature and humidity, I walked the few minutes to Gardens by the Bay (which also didn't exist when I last visited, 13 years prior) to check out the Floral Fantasy exhibit and also to stroll amongst the supertrees on the OCBC Skyway (22 meters high). To keep my strength up, I stopped for a quick lunch at the Jurassic Nest food hall, where I ate at Tsuta, serving up the world's first Michelin starred ramen. After my sightseeing concluded, my indulgence began. I met up with my friend for a late afternoon, into evening, turned late night eating and drinking session, which included the following venues: Frozen (for a very short amount of time) margaritas at Piedra Negra on Haji Lane Blu Jaz Cafe for some prosecco Turkish cuisine at ByBlos Grill Mr. Stork rooftop, located on the 39th floor of the Andaz Singapore Hotel LeVeL 33, the world’s highest urban microbrewery Jigger & Pony, #2 on Asia's 50 Best Bars list After partying into the wee hours of morning, it was off to bed (for approximately four hours), before heading back to the airport to continue the holiday touring around Indonesia. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Arrival: Complete this online Immigration Card no more than 72-hours before arriving into Singapore, if you're not just transiting through the country. Getting Around: Use the Grab ride-hailing app to get around quick, cheap and easy Electrical: UK plugs (with three square prongs) Weather: It is hot and humid all year-round, with temperatures usually over 86°F/30°C. You should be prepared for rain at any time, which can be torrential, but usually brief. Tipping: This is encouraged when you have good service, and this would be in addition to the standard 10% gratuity that some restaurants/hotels already add to your bill. Drinking Water: You can drink straight from the tap as the water in Singapore passes World Health Organization standards. Language: Singaporeans are fluent in English. Currency: The Singapore dollar. Notes come in denominations of S$2, S$5, S$10, S$50, S$100, S$1,000 and S$10,000. Credit cards are widely accepted. #singapore #southeastasia #asia #piedranegra #hajilane #blujazcafe #mrstork #level33 #jiggerandpony

  • summertime in central spain

    Central Spain can be stifling hot during the summer months, with temperatures pushing 40°C (105°F). To escape the oppressive heat, many locals go on holiday in July and August, resulting in fewer people (which can be great), but also closed businesses (less great, if you're a tourist). TOLEDO I didn't feel the decrease in population as greatly in Madrid, as it's a big, bustling city, but it was hard not to notice it in Toledo, which was an utter ghost town. The windows on shopfronts and restaurants were barred and shuttered. Grocery stores were only open from 10am-2pm, on certain days of the week. And the streets and squares were completely desolate. Even with a lack of people and open establishments, Toledo is an enjoyable and cute place to explore. This ancient city is known as the 'city of three cultures' because Christians, Muslims and Jews managed to live and co-exist here for hundreds of years. It's history of diversity, tolerance and religious harmony is rare in this part of Western Europe. Other Toledo fun facts include: It was the capital of Spain before Madrid Swordsmithing has been world famous here for 2,000 years Toledian marzipan is the city’s most beloved confectionary and is said to be the best in Spain The city of Toledo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 Manchego comes from this region; there's a Museo del Queso Manchego in Toledo in its honor (but it wasn't open) Although summer in Toledo isn't a hive of activity, there are still some amazing places to eat. Chefs in Toledo take pride in their food, ingredients and the presentation of their dishes. Portions are fairly large, but it prices remain affordable. Below are my reccos for where to eat... Entre Dos Fuegos in Hotel Etre Dos Aguas - Formerly the Spanish guitarist Paco de Lucia's house, this hotel is boutiquey and adorable. It's set right in the center of the Old Town and there's a rooftop, where I recommend having a glass of wine before you dine. You must book in advance in order to eat here as the restaurant only serves eight people, with one seating per night (at 9:00pm). It's an eight-course tasting menu, starting with tapas and ending with shots. The chef and sous-chef prepare everything in front of you. It's a very special experience. Lacus - An optimal lunch or dinner option. I suggest you wash the cod loin and lobster dishes down with a glass of cold, white wine. Eugenia de Montijo, Autograph Collection - Indulge in a beverage (or two) at this swanky bar. La Cabala - Everything here is simply delicious! Be sure not to over-order though; it's easy to get carried away trying everything. La Ermitaña - A must visit, for dinner and views. This restaurant is located outside the Old Town walls, but overlooks them. This restaurant is beautiful and superb. The cheesecake is to die for (made with mascarpone and manchego). Maybe book for a table inside though, to avoid getting attacked by wasps. A 35-minute high-speed Avant train will take you from Toledo directly into Madrid's Puerta De Atocha station. MADRID Having been to Madrid only one time previously, it was great to further explore the Spanish capital. Below are my recommendations for accommodations, sights and where to dine/wet your whistle. STAY: I highly recommend staying at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. If you can get past the cheesy name, you'll be pleasantly surprised by this grand hotel. It's centrally located, the pool is an oasis and the staff are delightful. Also, the rooms are enormous, with giant bathrooms and amenities like a GHD flat iron/hairdryer and fluffy robes/towels. The only down side is that they stop serving drinks by the pool at midnight, which is quite early by Madrid standards. *If CoolRooms full or out of your budget, have a look at Hotel Urban as a very nice alternative. DO/SEE: Retiro Park - Leisurely saunter through this park to escape the buzz of the city. It’s filled with gardens, fountains, statues, art galleries, street performers and a pond where you can rent row boats. The most beautiful part is the Jardines de Cecilio Rodriguez, filled with glorious peacocks. IKONO Madrid - Take about an hour to play around at this immersive and interactive art experience. During the tour you will encounter a ball pool, indoor bamboo park, confetti rain, light installations and murals painted by local artists. Royal Palace of Madrid - Formerly the official residence of the Spanish royal family, this palace is now used only for state ceremonies. Plaza Mayor - Madrid's grand central square used to be the center of torture and executions during the Spanish Inquisition, but today is a very touristy spot that plays host to much less morbid events like concerts, Christmas markets, bullfights and football games. Torres Bermejas - Feel the rhythm of this classic Spanish dance, during a 1-hour performance. Although flamenco originated in southern Spain, dancers from far and wide come to the capital city to showcase their talents. MUNCH/SLURP: Florida Park - Eat lunch/brunch at this restaurant located inside Retiro. Each area of the restaurant has its own menu. I ate at El Pabellón (the outdoor terrace). Don't leave without trying the roasted avocado starter and the grilled octopus main. La Tasqueria - With all of its tasting menus incorporating ingredients such as brain, tongue, trotters, tripe, combs and head of suckling pig, this offal restaurant probably isn't for everyone. But, if you're into Michelin-stars and adventurous eating, give it a go. Mercado de San Miguel - Pop into this covered market for gourmet tapas. Over 30 different vendors sell a variety of freshly prepared tapas, hams, olives, baked goods, desserts and other foods. Beer, wine and champagne are also available. 360° Rooftop Skybar Hotel Rui Plaza de España - After you pay €10, you can access the roof terrace via a high-speed lift. This is one of the most spectacular roof terraces in Madrid, with 360° views of the entire city. If you're not afraid of heights, stroll across the glass walkway for views below as well as around you. Salmon Guru - You'll find this establishment in the #15 position on the 2023 50 Best Bars list and as the first place winner of the Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award, in 2021. Both designations are well deserved. If you like a gin-based cocktail, try the Salmon Sherbet. Santita - If you get sick of Spanish food and want some Mexican, head here for tacos and frozen margs. Dani Rooftop - At the top of the Four Seasons Madrid, which only opened in September 2020, you'll find a stylish indoor lounge and outdoor terrace. This dynamic venue is one of the most beautiful rooftops in Madrid. And the panoramic views over the city are not too shabby either. Thanks for stopping by. I hope these recommendations help you cool off during your summertime visit to Central Spain! #madrid #toledo #spain #españa #europe

  • lunch in liechtenstein

    Have you ever thought, 'Hey, maybe I'll go to Liechtenstein for a day next Saturday?' No? Okay, just me then! As I have now entered the final year on my UK work visa, I have become cognizant of how much more of Europe there is still to be explored. Liechtenstein is a very accessible day trip from London. Early in the morning, I flew about an hour and a half from London Heathrow to Zurich, Switzerland. The car hire was conveniently located right within Zurich's airport. From there, Vaduz (Liechtenstein's capital) was about an hour and 20-minute drive away. And just like that, I made it to Liechtenstein. Ta da! The first stop was the Vaduz Tourist Information Center. For 3 Swiss franc (or €2.75), I was able to buy a passport stamp. After getting stamped, I had a nice stroll through the pedestrianized center of Vaduz, where older buildings stand adjacent to recent structures, traffic circles have water features in the middle and the streets are full of modern/contemporary art installations. Gazing upward, I could see Vaduz Castle overlooking the city. Commoners are unable to visit the castle as the princely family still resides there. The next stop was about a 20-minute drive away, up switchback mountain roads, to Malbun. 1,600 meters (5,249 feet) above sea level, in the Alps, Malbun is Liechtenstein's only ski resort town. In non-winter months, only one chairlift operates. It was 15 Swiss francs to ride and took about 10 minutes to reach the top, climbing another 400-odd meters. At the top, breathtaking views of the Alps of Liechtenstein and the neighbouring region of Vorarlberg, Austria could be seen from the terrace of the Sareis mountain restaurant, where I dined. There, I ate typical Liechtensteinian food, had a glass of wine and enjoyed the sweeping vista, whilst being serenaded by cow bells. Post-lunch, I watched a paraglider launch himself from the summit, connected only to a fabric wing, which certainly seemed like the quickest way down the mountain, but I opted for the less adventurous chairlift approach. From Malbun to Triesen took 20-minutes in the car. The idea was to visit Seilpark im Forest - a rope adventure park. But, by the time I arrived, I had only about 20-minutes before having to head back to Zurich airport. Also, the mats zip-tied to the trees as a safety precaution didn't seem quite up to snuff, so I decided to give this a miss. An hour and a bit later, I was back at Zurich airport. I dropped the rental car, passed through security/passport control, walked to the gate, took off, flew and landed back in London all by 8pm. I found Liechtenstein to be a delightful, albeit tiny, alpine country that was definitely worth a day trip! For some interesting/funny tidbits about Liechtenstein, read this article. #alpine #liechtenstein #vaduz #malbun #triesen #switzerland #zurich #sareis

  • kenya & tanzania

    Guided tours are not typically my preferred style of travel, but, in this case, my parents booked their experience through Odysseys Unlimited and I decided to tag along. I'm not a total convert yet, but I must admit that flying private and having my bags carried/logistics managed, for two full weeks, was a delight. Plus, we had an amazing guide, drivers and tour companions! The trip was curated in such a way that it felt a little like the crescendo of a fine dining experience, with each course just a little tastier and more enticing than the previous. Everyone met in Nairobi for apéritifs. After our appetites were whetted, hors d'oeuvres (Amboseli) were passed around. Then we enjoyed appetizers (Lake Manyara) before moving on to the salad course (Ngorongoro Crater). Entrées followed (Serengeti). Finally, we ended with a decadent dessert (Maasai Mara). Starting from the beginning of the feast... Now the largest hub in East Africa, Kenya's capital has come a long way since it earned itself the nickname 'Nairobbery', in the 1990's. No longer so lawless, brutality and corruption have improved considerably over the past few decades. Nairobi's city center is now less threatening and there are fewer street children, beggars and touts. That said, like anywhere, it still pays to take precautions and to be vigilant. It was an interesting time to be in Kenya with the new president, William Ruto, being sworn in (a month after narrowly winning the election and then battling a challenge in the Supreme Court). Also, Queen Elizabeth II, the world’s longest-serving monarch, passed away. As a proud member of the Commonwealth, the flag of the Republic of Kenya was flown at half-mast in honor of Her Royal Highness, for the entire morning period. I stayed at the lovely Hotel Fairmont The Norfolk, a colonial landmark dating back to 1904. Its old-world charm is matched by its elegant design. It's about a 35-minute drive away from Nairobi's international airport. I arranged a car service in advance, but it wasn't necessary as both Uber and Bolt operate locally. I used them each multiple times and they proved to be easy, efficient, cheap and I felt safe. Top sights in Nairobi include the following: 1. Karura Forest: This little surprise, in the middle of the city, offers over 50kms of walking, biking and nature trails. It's open 6am-6pm every day of the week and, as a tourist, entry will set you back 600Ksh (~$6) per person. Highlights include wild monkeys, a 15-meter waterfall (which was supposed to be orange, but wasn't) and a very decent cafe. 2. Giraffe Center: This non-profit organisation was established to protect and breed the endangered Rothschild giraffes. These towering animals are interactive and love to be fed. The Giraffe Center shares a backyard with Giraffe Manor, a luxury boutique hotel that I tried stay at, but all 12 rooms were reserved over a year in advance. Due to the exclusivity of the manor, people are unable to visit if they're not staying there. 3. David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage: I didn't go because I wasn't organized enough, but I have it on good authority that it's worth a visit. It's only open to the public from 11am-12pm each day and you must book far in advance. During that hour, you get to see the orphaned baby elephants feed and play. 4. Eat at Carnivore: Similar to the concept of a Brazilian steakhouse, an army of carvers will visit your table to shave bits of various meats onto your plate, alongside a selection of salads and sauces. Different to other typical Brazilian steakhouses though is the exotic selection of meats available to try, including ostrich, crocodile and ox balls. If you're feeling indulgent, wash it all down with the house sugar-cane cocktail called 'dawa'. Leaving Nairobi, we journeyed to southern Kenya to begin the safari portion of the trip. Stop number one was Amboseli National Park, located in the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro (Africa’s highest mountain, which is actually a dormant volcano). Sadly Kili was being shy and she never came out from behind her cloud cover. Amboseli is known especially for its big-tusked elephant population (more elephants reside here than any other Kenyan preserve). Along with the celebrated elephants, there are 50 species of other large animals here, including giraffe, hyena, hippo, buffalo and Africa's mixed grill (wildebeest, gazelle and zebra). After two nights in Amboseli, we proceeded on to Lake Manyara, which required a border crossing, overland, from Kenya into Tanzania. We stopped for lunch at the beautiful Arusha Coffee Lodge, along the way. Peaceful Lake Manyara is one of Tanzania’s smallest parks, at just 125 square miles. It was deemed “the loveliest lake in Africa” by Ernest Hemingway. Whilst Manyara's most famous residents are its baboons, the lake and its surroundings are also a sanctuary for many other herbivores, like rooting warthogs and flocks of pink flamingos. A spectacular full moon lit up the sky the one night we stayed in Lake Manyara (9th September 2022). Next, we drove on a dusty, dry road to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, a protected area and UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Tanzania. The area is named after Ngorongoro Crater, the world's biggest intact volcanic caldera. We arrived at our accommodation, late in the afternoon. All rooms at the Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge are perched along the Crater's rim and have their own balcony, with uninterrupted views of the volcanic basin. Sunset was pretty, but when we awoke the next morning, the view was nothing short of breath-taking. Cotton candy-colored clouds cascaded into the crater, looking like a orangey-purple, fluffy waterfall. We set out early in morning for a game drive in the Crater and witnessed nuzzling zebras, piles of hippos, grazing elephants, curious wildebeests and graceful gazelles. Because Ngorongoro has abundant food and water year-round, the animals do not migrate as they do between Maasai Mara and the Serengeti. And because they live within the confines of the steep-walled depression, Ngorongoro’s animals are less shy and more approachable than those at other reserves. After Ngorongoro, we were Serengeti-bound. On the way, we visited the Olduvai Gorge, known as the "cradle of civilization". In 1959 anthropologist Mary Leakey discovered a 1.8 million-year-old skull and revolutionized the study of human evolution. Olduvai ranks as one of the world’s most important prehistoric archaeological sites. The Leakey family continues to research early human development at Olduvai to this day. That afternoon, we did our first game drive in the Serengeti, a 5,700-square-mile “endless plain”. With the highest concentration of large animals on the planet, the Serengeti is one of the best locales to get up close and personal with Africa's big kitties (lion, cheetah and leopard). Twice each year (December–March and June–October), some 1.3 million wildebeest, 200k zebra and 300k Thomson’s gazelle migrate to new grazing lands between the Maasai Mara and the Serengeti, sparking one of nature’s most spectacular sights. After two nights in the Serengeti, we left Tanzania, crossed back into Kenya overland and continued on to the Maasai Mara National Reserve, by air. Maasai Mara is Africa’s premier game reserve, rich with animal life and luxury accommodations. I stayed at Sarova Mara, in what was known as a "tented camp". Don't be fooled by the phrase though; I was in no way roughing it. My living quarters were equipped with plumbing, electricity, a full tub and separate rainfall shower, hardwood floors, lavish furnishing, an insanely comfortable bed and a porch. Thursday, 15th September 2022 will go down as the best day of the whole trip. It started off with a serene sunrise balloon ride over Maasai Mara. From the air, we saw herds of buffalo, elephant and wildebeest as well as dazzles of zebra and a tower of giraffe. Once back safely on the ground, we enjoyed a lovely champagne brunch followed by sightings of ALL of Africa's most iconic wildlife, known as the "Big Five" (lion, elephant, leopard, buffalo and rhinoceros). This term, coined in the late 1800s, refers to what trophy hunters considered the most challenging and dangerous animals to hunt on foot. Today, it's the holy grail for safari-goers to spot. It's a day-to-day struggle in the bush. For many of the animals, it's kill or be killed. Although it can be difficult to see death, it's also the circle of life. If you can turn a blind eye to the gore and appreciate the expertise survival required, a kill in the wild can be quite thrilling. We saw three on this day! Maybe don't look at the pictures below though, if you're squeamish. The Mara also provided glimpses of some very cute baby warthogs, smiling hippos and suntanning crocs. A beautiful sunset rounded off our perfect safari day. Sadly, all trips must come to an end though. I flew from Maasai Mara back to Nairobi's domestic airport, spent a few hours lounging around at the Fairmont and then headed to the international airport to return to my real life in London. The trip was magical! If you ever get the chance to go on safari in Africa, it's worth a fortune (although it costs one too). It's the sort of stuff bucket lists are made of! KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Check COVID requirements for both countries before you enter. For Kenya, there was a health form and proof of vaccination portal that were needed to be completed ahead of arrival, but these things keep changing. I needed a single entry eVisa to enter Kenya (crossing overland in and out apparently doesn't count as multiple entries). It didn't take very long to apply for and it got approved in a few days. You may not receive an email indicating that your visa has been approved, so keep checking the portal. Be sure to print 1-2 color copies of the visa and take them with you. For Tanzania, our visas were bought and processed on arrival ($100 USD had to be a new, crisp bill). Kenya has banned all single use plastics, so leave carrier bags and water bottles at home. Don't drink the tap water in either country and brush your teeth with bottled water. My mobile worked great in Kenya, but service was spotty in Tanzania. ‘Jambo’ is a greeting in Swahili and you will hear it everywhere. If your driver pulls over and says he's ‘checking the tires’, he's going for a wee. The Schilling is the official currency in Kenya, but USD are accepted. In Tanzania, they use the Shilingi, but USD is also common/accepted. Roads and the parks were very dusty, so don't wear white and bring a camera brush/cleaner. The roads were also bumpy, so ladies should wear sports bra. The tsi tsi flies in the Serengeti are no joke. Lube up with DEET/saltidin and don't wear navy blue nor black. The weather varied, be sure to pack accordingly. Temperatures are often much cooler in the mornings and evenings, during game drives. Layers are best. Risk of malaria was low at the time of year when I went, but it's worth checking with a travel clinic and deciding if you want to take antimalarials or not. Definitely bring binoculars. Because the parks are all protected, you can't off-road, and, in some places, the animals can be very far away from the roads. #safari #kenya #tanzania #nairobi #amboselinationalpark #amboseli #lakemanyaranationalpark #lakemanyara #ngorongorocrater #serengeti #masaimara #maasaimara #bigfive #gamedrive #africa #karuraforest #giraffecenter #giraffemanor #davidsheldrickelephantorphanage #carnivore

  • from the vineyard to the glass

    Cuvée, cellars, casks, corks, châteaus, charcuterie, cheese and charm pretty much sum up the wine-tasting tour that took me through some of France's most famous wine regions (Bordeaux, Saint Émilion, Beaujolais, Sancerre, Chablis and Paris). BORDEAUX Pair Bordeaux's production of world-famous fine wines with its exceptional gastronomy and it becomes evident why France's sixth largest city was a tasty place to begin my journey. Eat: Whilst in Bordeaux, do yourself a favor and enjoy a meal at Restaurant Influences. Started by a duo who met working at one of my favorite places to frequent when I used to live in San Francisco, La Folie (which has now closed, sadly), the couple then settled in Bordeaux and opened a restaurant with a delicious surprise tasting menu concept. SAINT ÉMILION About 30-miles from Bordeaux is a magical place that wine enthusiasts need no introduction to. This small wine appellation is renowned as one of the greatest wine regions in the world. It’s also an incredibly delightful ancient village, that was classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. STAY: As far as Airbnb's go, the one I stayed at in Saint Émilion was pretty fantastic. It was located right in the heart of the pedestrian village, had all the amenities one would need and was bright, charming and cozy. Taste: *Be sure to book your wine tastings in advance. **NOTE: Many places are not open on Sundays nor bank holidays. Château Ambe Tour Pourret - Try three wines, then buy a bottle of your favorite and enjoy it in the courtyard, along with some cheese and crackers. Château Croizille & Tour Baladoz - Experience both traditional and modern methods of wine production, with this two-for-one tour of neighboring wineries. It culminates in a tasting room with sweeping, panoramic views of the vineyards. Château Bellefont-Belcier - For €25 you'll taste a trio of wines in this 18th century estate (including one that retails for €150). Plus, you'll get some yummy paired nibbles as a bonus. Château Cardinal-Villemaurine - Just a few steps away from the center of Saint Émilion you'll find this lovely family-owned boutique winery. Christine, one of the owners, was welcoming and informative, the wines went down easily and the little, disabled dog was entertaining. Eat: L'Atelier de Candale - If you're getting around by foot, book this place for lunch, between tastings at Château Croizille and Château Bellefont-Belcier. Sit out on the beautiful terrace, amongst the grape vines, and enjoy the freshly grilled food. Le Bis - This place has a casual, neighborhoody sort of vibe. The cheese is out of this world and the entrecôte is cooked on an open flame, in a fireplace, by a comedic owner/chef. Chai Pascal - This 36-person cozy restaurant opened eight years ago and has since had an emphasis on traditional cuisine and, of course, wine. BEAUJOLAIS Beaujolais is bordered by Burgundy to the North; the Saône River to the East; Lyon to the South; and the Monts de Beaujolais to the West. I99% of the wines here are made from Gamay Noir grapes and tend to be light-bodied, acidic and low in tannins. Taste: To get a feel for the difference between commercial and independent wineries, I recommend doing tours/tastings at both of the following châteaus: Château de la Chaize - Designed by the same architect as Versailles, this 17th century castle is one of the most beautiful buildings in France. It covers more than 400 hectares, including 150 hectares of vines, making it the largest wine estate in Beaujolais. Following a recent major restoration of the chateau's wine making facilities, the equipment is top notch, pristine and very modern. Fabien de Lescure (Domaine de la Bouronière) - Conversely, this 11 hectare family-owned estate that has been passed down through the generations, follows a more traditional style of harvesting, crushing and pressing, fermentation and aging. I loved this winery the most. The lovely Joelle gave us a private tour, spent a lot of time answering our many questions and even refilled our glasses several time. Joelle is an active member of Femmes de Vin and is committed to highlighting the place of women in the world of wine. Eat: La Robe Rouge - The food is inventive, unique, delicious and prepared to perfection. You must book in advance. Lucienne fait des siennes - Located within a very cute, 11-room hotel, this funky little gem has mismatched furnishings and canine artwork adorns the walls. The dishes are designed to share and are full of flavor. Château de Pizay - I found the restaurant within this 4* hotel to be overwhelmingly just okay. The starters, bread, wine and desserts were delightful, but I didn't care for the mains all that much. It's still worth a visit to see the beautiful gardens and have a drink in the bar. SANCERRE Sancerre is not just a delicious, award-winning crisp, white wine, it's also an enchanting, medieval, hilltop village in the Loire Valley, with a maze of cobblestoned streets. Outside of the peak summer months, Sancerre is a pretty sleepy place, with only ~1,300 residents. A walk around the perimeter of town allows for beautiful views of lush vineyards and undulating fields. Stay: I highly recommend booking Le Logis St Pere for your accommodation. It's an unbelievable property, right in the center of the village. Parking is limited and a little difficult with the narrow streets, but it is free. Once we found a spot, we kept the car there for the duration and walked/taxied wherever else. Taste: Château de Sancerre - This was one of the most informative and interesting tours that we had on the whole trip. Coupled with a yummy tasting of four wines plus local goat's cheese and home-made biscotti, it was a real delight. Domaine de la Villaudière - Jean-Marie Reverdy & Fils - We didn't have a reservation, but we walked into this family run operation, to dodge the rain, and were pleasantly surprised! We tasted nine of their delicious wines and bought as much as we could carry back with us. Eat/Slurp: Taste Sancerre - We were welcomed here with a friendly atmosphere and beautiful views of the Sancerrois vineyards. With one Michelin star, dinner at Maison Medard is a must. In a recently renovated 13th century building, the local ingredients are honored in a modern and refined way. La Petite Maison - This spot has great service and inventive dishes, at an affordable price. At €20, the three-course lunch was a steal! Auberge Joseph Mellot - What this restaurant lacked in ambiance, it made up for in quality and price. We were the only people dining there, which was a bit odd. La Banque - This bar came recommended by just about every person we met in Sancerre, so we had to check it out. The former banking establishment turned trendy wine bar did not disappoint. Chèvrerie des Gallands - The perfect food to enjoy with a glass of Sancerre is the locally made creamy cheese known as Crottin de Chavignol. On our way out of Sancerre, we quickly stopped to taste some goat's cheese at a farm which is home to 150 goats and where the cheese is made fresh each morning. CHABLIS Chablis is the northernmost wine district of the Burgundy region in France. Its cool climate produces wines with more acidity and less fruitiness than Chardonnay vines grown in warmer conditions. Eat: Take a load off whilst enjoying some charcuterie, escargot, baguettes and, of course, locally produced Chablis at Marguerite de Chablis. This riverside spot is an ideal lunch spot. PARIS My French wine discovery adventure sadly came to an end in Paris. I had only planned on staying for one night, but ended up being there a few as a result of a Eurostar strike, which resulted in multiple train cancellations. Ultimately I ended up taking a grueling 9.5-hour bus-ferry-bus combination back to London. I would have flown, but I had bought too much wine in the previous 10 days. It wasn't the ideal end to a near-perfect trip, but there are worse places than Paris to get stuck for a few days. #bordeaux #saintemilion #beaujolais #sancerre #chablis #paris #france #wine #winetasting #frenchwine #vino #europe

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