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  • instant asia

    Singapore is the only place in the world that is a city, a state and an island. Its diversity (mainly Malay, Chinese, Indian and Eurasian) makes it a nation richly varied in heritage, cuisine, art and architecture. It has earned the nickname 'instant Asia' because it offers tourists a quick glimpse of the sights, tastes and cultures of all of Asia's main ethnic groups. 'Quick glimpse' described my fleeting visit perfectly. I went for only one day and one night, en route to longer trip around Indonesia. The short stopover was arranged purely to see a friend, check out a few landmarks that didn't exist the previous times I've visited and to enjoy Singapore's dynamic food/beverage scene. I landed bright and early on Friday morning. Luckily I was able to check into my sexy hotel straight away (Vagabond Club), allowing me to quickly clean up and get on with my full day. The first stop on my whirlwind daytrip was the Marina Bay Sands (which is new since that last time I was in Singapore). This extravagant three-columned building combines an ultra-luxury hotel with designer shops, upscale restaurants/bars, a casino, a theater, a nightclub and even a museum. The Sands SkyPark straddles the top of all three towers and provides cityscape views. There is a pool at the top as well, but access is limited to hotel guests only. Despite the scorching temperature and humidity, I walked the few minutes to Gardens by the Bay (which also didn't exist when I last visited, 13 years prior) to check out the Floral Fantasy exhibit and also to stroll amongst the supertrees on the OCBC Skyway (22 meters high). To keep my strength up, I stopped for a quick lunch at the Jurassic Nest food hall, where I ate at Tsuta, serving up the world's first Michelin starred ramen. After my sightseeing concluded, my indulgence began. I met up with my friend for a late afternoon, into evening, turned late night eating and drinking session, which included the following venues: Frozen (for a very short amount of time) margaritas at Piedra Negra on Haji Lane Blu Jaz Cafe for some prosecco Turkish cuisine at ByBlos Grill Mr. Stork rooftop, located on the 39th floor of the Andaz Singapore Hotel LeVeL 33, the world’s highest urban microbrewery Jigger & Pony, #2 on Asia's 50 Best Bars list After partying into the wee hours of morning, it was off to bed (for approximately four hours), before heading back to the airport to continue the holiday touring around Indonesia. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Arrival: Complete this online Immigration Card no more than 72-hours before arriving into Singapore, if you're not just transiting through the country. Getting Around: Use the Grab ride-hailing app to get around quick, cheap and easy Electrical: UK plugs (with three square prongs) Weather: It is hot and humid all year-round, with temperatures usually over 86°F/30°C. You should be prepared for rain at any time, which can be torrential, but usually brief. Tipping: This is encouraged when you have good service, and this would be in addition to the standard 10% gratuity that some restaurants/hotels already add to your bill. Drinking Water: You can drink straight from the tap as the water in Singapore passes World Health Organization standards. Language: Singaporeans are fluent in English. Currency: The Singapore dollar. Notes come in denominations of S$2, S$5, S$10, S$50, S$100, S$1,000 and S$10,000. Credit cards are widely accepted. #singapore #southeastasia #asia #piedranegra #hajilane #blujazcafe #mrstork #level33 #jiggerandpony

  • summertime in central spain

    Central Spain can be stifling hot during the summer months, with temperatures pushing 40°C (105°F). To escape the oppressive heat, many locals go on holiday in July and August, resulting in fewer people (which can be great), but also closed businesses (less great, if you're a tourist). TOLEDO I didn't feel the decrease in population as greatly in Madrid, as it's a big, bustling city, but it was hard not to notice it in Toledo, which was an utter ghost town. The windows on shopfronts and restaurants were barred and shuttered. Grocery stores were only open from 10am-2pm, on certain days of the week. And the streets and squares were completely desolate. Even with a lack of people and open establishments, Toledo is an enjoyable and cute place to explore. This ancient city is known as the 'city of three cultures' because Christians, Muslims and Jews managed to live and co-exist here for hundreds of years. It's history of diversity, tolerance and religious harmony is rare in this part of Western Europe. Other Toledo fun facts include: It was the capital of Spain before Madrid Swordsmithing has been world famous here for 2,000 years Toledian marzipan is the city’s most beloved confectionary and is said to be the best in Spain The city of Toledo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 Manchego comes from this region; there's a Museo del Queso Manchego in Toledo in its honor (but it wasn't open) Although summer in Toledo isn't a hive of activity, there are still some amazing places to eat. Chefs in Toledo take pride in their food, ingredients and the presentation of their dishes. Portions are fairly large, but it prices remain affordable. Below are my reccos for where to eat... Entre Dos Fuegos in Hotel Etre Dos Aguas - Formerly the Spanish guitarist Paco de Lucia's house, this hotel is boutiquey and adorable. It's set right in the center of the Old Town and there's a rooftop, where I recommend having a glass of wine before you dine. You must book in advance in order to eat here as the restaurant only serves eight people, with one seating per night (at 9:00pm). It's an eight-course tasting menu, starting with tapas and ending with shots. The chef and sous-chef prepare everything in front of you. It's a very special experience. Lacus - An optimal lunch or dinner option. I suggest you wash the cod loin and lobster dishes down with a glass of cold, white wine. Eugenia de Montijo, Autograph Collection - Indulge in a beverage (or two) at this swanky bar. La Cabala - Everything here is simply delicious! Be sure not to over-order though; it's easy to get carried away trying everything. La Ermitaña - A must visit, for dinner and views. This restaurant is located outside the Old Town walls, but overlooks them. This restaurant is beautiful and superb. The cheesecake is to die for (made with mascarpone and manchego). Maybe book for a table inside though, to avoid getting attacked by wasps. A 35-minute high-speed Avant train will take you from Toledo directly into Madrid's Puerta De Atocha station. MADRID Having been to Madrid only one time previously, it was great to further explore the Spanish capital. Below are my recommendations for accommodations, sights and where to dine/wet your whistle. STAY: I highly recommend staying at CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha. If you can get past the cheesy name, you'll be pleasantly surprised by this grand hotel. It's centrally located, the pool is an oasis and the staff are delightful. Also, the rooms are enormous, with giant bathrooms and amenities like a GHD flat iron/hairdryer and fluffy robes/towels. The only down side is that they stop serving drinks by the pool at midnight, which is quite early by Madrid standards. *If CoolRooms full or out of your budget, have a look at Hotel Urban as a very nice alternative. DO/SEE: Retiro Park - Leisurely saunter through this park to escape the buzz of the city. It’s filled with gardens, fountains, statues, art galleries, street performers and a pond where you can rent row boats. The most beautiful part is the Jardines de Cecilio Rodriguez, filled with glorious peacocks. IKONO Madrid - Take about an hour to play around at this immersive and interactive art experience. During the tour you will encounter a ball pool, indoor bamboo park, confetti rain, light installations and murals painted by local artists. Royal Palace of Madrid - Formerly the official residence of the Spanish royal family, this palace is now used only for state ceremonies. Plaza Mayor - Madrid's grand central square used to be the center of torture and executions during the Spanish Inquisition, but today is a very touristy spot that plays host to much less morbid events like concerts, Christmas markets, bullfights and football games. Torres Bermejas - Feel the rhythm of this classic Spanish dance, during a 1-hour performance. Although flamenco originated in southern Spain, dancers from far and wide come to the capital city to showcase their talents. MUNCH/SLURP: Florida Park - Eat lunch/brunch at this restaurant located inside Retiro. Each area of the restaurant has its own menu. I ate at El Pabellón (the outdoor terrace). Don't leave without trying the roasted avocado starter and the grilled octopus main. La Tasqueria - With all of its tasting menus incorporating ingredients such as brain, tongue, trotters, tripe, combs and head of suckling pig, this offal restaurant probably isn't for everyone. But, if you're into Michelin-stars and adventurous eating, give it a go. Mercado de San Miguel - Pop into this covered market for gourmet tapas. Over 30 different vendors sell a variety of freshly prepared tapas, hams, olives, baked goods, desserts and other foods. Beer, wine and champagne are also available. 360° Rooftop Skybar Hotel Rui Plaza de España - After you pay €10, you can access the roof terrace via a high-speed lift. This is one of the most spectacular roof terraces in Madrid, with 360° views of the entire city. If you're not afraid of heights, stroll across the glass walkway for views below as well as around you. Salmon Guru - You'll find this establishment in the #15 position on the 2023 50 Best Bars list and as the first place winner of the Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award, in 2021. Both designations are well deserved. If you like a gin-based cocktail, try the Salmon Sherbet. Santita - If you get sick of Spanish food and want some Mexican, head here for tacos and frozen margs. Dani Rooftop - At the top of the Four Seasons Madrid, which only opened in September 2020, you'll find a stylish indoor lounge and outdoor terrace. This dynamic venue is one of the most beautiful rooftops in Madrid. And the panoramic views over the city are not too shabby either. Thanks for stopping by. I hope these recommendations help you cool off during your summertime visit to Central Spain! #madrid #toledo #spain #españa #europe

  • lunch in liechtenstein

    Have you ever thought, 'Hey, maybe I'll go to Liechtenstein for a day next Saturday?' No? Okay, just me then! As I have now entered the final year on my UK work visa, I have become cognizant of how much more of Europe there is still to be explored. Liechtenstein is a very accessible day trip from London. Early in the morning, I flew about an hour and a half from London Heathrow to Zurich, Switzerland. The car hire was conveniently located right within Zurich's airport. From there, Vaduz (Liechtenstein's capital) was about an hour and 20-minute drive away. And just like that, I made it to Liechtenstein. Ta da! The first stop was the Vaduz Tourist Information Center. For 3 Swiss franc (or €2.75), I was able to buy a passport stamp. After getting stamped, I had a nice stroll through the pedestrianized center of Vaduz, where older buildings stand adjacent to recent structures, traffic circles have water features in the middle and the streets are full of modern/contemporary art installations. Gazing upward, I could see Vaduz Castle overlooking the city. Commoners are unable to visit the castle as the princely family still resides there. The next stop was about a 20-minute drive away, up switchback mountain roads, to Malbun. 1,600 meters (5,249 feet) above sea level, in the Alps, Malbun is Liechtenstein's only ski resort town. In non-winter months, only one chairlift operates. It was 15 Swiss francs to ride and took about 10 minutes to reach the top, climbing another 400-odd meters. At the top, breathtaking views of the Alps of Liechtenstein and the neighbouring region of Vorarlberg, Austria could be seen from the terrace of the Sareis mountain restaurant, where I dined. There, I ate typical Liechtensteinian food, had a glass of wine and enjoyed the sweeping vista, whilst being serenaded by cow bells. Post-lunch, I watched a paraglider launch himself from the summit, connected only to a fabric wing, which certainly seemed like the quickest way down the mountain, but I opted for the less adventurous chairlift approach. From Malbun to Triesen took 20-minutes in the car. The idea was to visit Seilpark im Forest - a rope adventure park. But, by the time I arrived, I had only about 20-minutes before having to head back to Zurich airport. Also, the mats zip-tied to the trees as a safety precaution didn't seem quite up to snuff, so I decided to give this a miss. An hour and a bit later, I was back at Zurich airport. I dropped the rental car, passed through security/passport control, walked to the gate, took off, flew and landed back in London all by 8pm. I found Liechtenstein to be a delightful, albeit tiny, alpine country that was definitely worth a day trip! For some interesting/funny tidbits about Liechtenstein, read this article. #alpine #liechtenstein #vaduz #malbun #triesen #switzerland #zurich #sareis

  • kenya & tanzania

    Guided tours are not typically my preferred style of travel, but, in this case, my parents booked their experience through Odysseys Unlimited and I decided to tag along. I'm not a total convert yet, but I must admit that flying private and having my bags carried/logistics managed, for two full weeks, was a delight. Plus, we had an amazing guide, drivers and tour companions! The trip was curated in such a way that it felt a little like the crescendo of a fine dining experience, with each course just a little tastier and more enticing than the previous. Everyone met in Nairobi for apéritifs. After our appetites were whetted, hors d'oeuvres (Amboseli) were passed around. Then we enjoyed appetizers (Lake Manyara) before moving on to the salad course (Ngorongoro Crater). Entrées followed (Serengeti). Finally, we ended with a decadent dessert (Maasai Mara). Starting from the beginning of the feast... Now the largest hub in East Africa, Kenya's capital has come a long way since it earned itself the nickname 'Nairobbery', in the 1990's. No longer so lawless, brutality and corruption have improved considerably over the past few decades. Nairobi's city center is now less threatening and there are fewer street children, beggars and touts. That said, like anywhere, it still pays to take precautions and to be vigilant. It was an interesting time to be in Kenya with the new president, William Ruto, being sworn in (a month after narrowly winning the election and then battling a challenge in the Supreme Court). Also, Queen Elizabeth II, the world’s longest-serving monarch, passed away. As a proud member of the Commonwealth, the flag of the Republic of Kenya was flown at half-mast in honor of Her Royal Highness, for the entire morning period. I stayed at the lovely Hotel Fairmont The Norfolk, a colonial landmark dating back to 1904. Its old-world charm is matched by its elegant design. It's about a 35-minute drive away from Nairobi's international airport. I arranged a car service in advance, but it wasn't necessary as both Uber and Bolt operate locally. I used them each multiple times and they proved to be easy, efficient, cheap and I felt safe. Top sights in Nairobi include the following: 1. Karura Forest: This little surprise, in the middle of the city, offers over 50kms of walking, biking and nature trails. It's open 6am-6pm every day of the week and, as a tourist, entry will set you back 600Ksh (~$6) per person. Highlights include wild monkeys, a 15-meter waterfall (which was supposed to be orange, but wasn't) and a very decent cafe. 2. Giraffe Center: This non-profit organisation was established to protect and breed the endangered Rothschild giraffes. These towering animals are interactive and love to be fed. The Giraffe Center shares a backyard with Giraffe Manor, a luxury boutique hotel that I tried stay at, but all 12 rooms were reserved over a year in advance. Due to the exclusivity of the manor, people are unable to visit if they're not staying there. 3. David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage: I didn't go because I wasn't organized enough, but I have it on good authority that it's worth a visit. It's only open to the public from 11am-12pm each day and you must book far in advance. During that hour, you get to see the orphaned baby elephants feed and play. 4. Eat at Carnivore: Similar to the concept of a Brazilian steakhouse, an army of carvers will visit your table to shave bits of various meats onto your plate, alongside a selection of salads and sauces. Different to other typical Brazilian steakhouses though is the exotic selection of meats available to try, including ostrich, crocodile and ox balls. If you're feeling indulgent, wash it all down with the house sugar-cane cocktail called 'dawa'. Leaving Nairobi, we journeyed to southern Kenya to begin the safari portion of the trip. Stop number one was Amboseli National Park, located in the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro (Africa’s highest mountain, which is actually a dormant volcano). Sadly Kili was being shy and she never came out from behind her cloud cover. Amboseli is known especially for its big-tusked elephant population (more elephants reside here than any other Kenyan preserve). Along with the celebrated elephants, there are 50 species of other large animals here, including giraffe, hyena, hippo, buffalo and Africa's mixed grill (wildebeest, gazelle and zebra). After two nights in Amboseli, we proceeded on to Lake Manyara, which required a border crossing, overland, from Kenya into Tanzania. We stopped for lunch at the beautiful Arusha Coffee Lodge, along the way. Peaceful Lake Manyara is one of Tanzania’s smallest parks, at just 125 square miles. It was deemed “the loveliest lake in Africa” by Ernest Hemingway. Whilst Manyara's most famous residents are its baboons, the lake and its surroundings are also a sanctuary for many other herbivores, like rooting warthogs and flocks of pink flamingos. A spectacular full moon lit up the sky the one night we stayed in Lake Manyara (9th September 2022). Next, we drove on a dusty, dry road to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, a protected area and UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Tanzania. The area is named after Ngorongoro Crater, the world's biggest intact volcanic caldera. We arrived at our accommodation, late in the afternoon. All rooms at the Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge are perched along the Crater's rim and have their own balcony, with uninterrupted views of the volcanic basin. Sunset was pretty, but when we awoke the next morning, the view was nothing short of breath-taking. Cotton candy-colored clouds cascaded into the crater, looking like a orangey-purple, fluffy waterfall. We set out early in morning for a game drive in the Crater and witnessed nuzzling zebras, piles of hippos, grazing elephants, curious wildebeests and graceful gazelles. Because Ngorongoro has abundant food and water year-round, the animals do not migrate as they do between Maasai Mara and the Serengeti. And because they live within the confines of the steep-walled depression, Ngorongoro’s animals are less shy and more approachable than those at other reserves. After Ngorongoro, we were Serengeti-bound. On the way, we visited the Olduvai Gorge, known as the "cradle of civilization". In 1959 anthropologist Mary Leakey discovered a 1.8 million-year-old skull and revolutionized the study of human evolution. Olduvai ranks as one of the world’s most important prehistoric archaeological sites. The Leakey family continues to research early human development at Olduvai to this day. That afternoon, we did our first game drive in the Serengeti, a 5,700-square-mile “endless plain”. With the highest concentration of large animals on the planet, the Serengeti is one of the best locales to get up close and personal with Africa's big kitties (lion, cheetah and leopard). Twice each year (December–March and June–October), some 1.3 million wildebeest, 200k zebra and 300k Thomson’s gazelle migrate to new grazing lands between the Maasai Mara and the Serengeti, sparking one of nature’s most spectacular sights. After two nights in the Serengeti, we left Tanzania, crossed back into Kenya overland and continued on to the Maasai Mara National Reserve, by air. Maasai Mara is Africa’s premier game reserve, rich with animal life and luxury accommodations. I stayed at Sarova Mara, in what was known as a "tented camp". Don't be fooled by the phrase though; I was in no way roughing it. My living quarters were equipped with plumbing, electricity, a full tub and separate rainfall shower, hardwood floors, lavish furnishing, an insanely comfortable bed and a porch. Thursday, 15th September 2022 will go down as the best day of the whole trip. It started off with a serene sunrise balloon ride over Maasai Mara. From the air, we saw herds of buffalo, elephant and wildebeest as well as dazzles of zebra and a tower of giraffe. Once back safely on the ground, we enjoyed a lovely champagne brunch followed by sightings of ALL of Africa's most iconic wildlife, known as the "Big Five" (lion, elephant, leopard, buffalo and rhinoceros). This term, coined in the late 1800s, refers to what trophy hunters considered the most challenging and dangerous animals to hunt on foot. Today, it's the holy grail for safari-goers to spot. It's a day-to-day struggle in the bush. For many of the animals, it's kill or be killed. Although it can be difficult to see death, it's also the circle of life. If you can turn a blind eye to the gore and appreciate the expertise survival required, a kill in the wild can be quite thrilling. We saw three on this day! Maybe don't look at the pictures below though, if you're squeamish. The Mara also provided glimpses of some very cute baby warthogs, smiling hippos and suntanning crocs. A beautiful sunset rounded off our perfect safari day. Sadly, all trips must come to an end though. I flew from Maasai Mara back to Nairobi's domestic airport, spent a few hours lounging around at the Fairmont and then headed to the international airport to return to my real life in London. The trip was magical! If you ever get the chance to go on safari in Africa, it's worth a fortune (although it costs one too). It's the sort of stuff bucket lists are made of! KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Check COVID requirements for both countries before you enter. For Kenya, there was a health form and proof of vaccination portal that were needed to be completed ahead of arrival, but these things keep changing. I needed a single entry eVisa to enter Kenya (crossing overland in and out apparently doesn't count as multiple entries). It didn't take very long to apply for and it got approved in a few days. You may not receive an email indicating that your visa has been approved, so keep checking the portal. Be sure to print 1-2 color copies of the visa and take them with you. For Tanzania, our visas were bought and processed on arrival ($100 USD had to be a new, crisp bill). Kenya has banned all single use plastics, so leave carrier bags and water bottles at home. Don't drink the tap water in either country and brush your teeth with bottled water. My mobile worked great in Kenya, but service was spotty in Tanzania. ‘Jambo’ is a greeting in Swahili and you will hear it everywhere. If your driver pulls over and says he's ‘checking the tires’, he's going for a wee. The Schilling is the official currency in Kenya, but USD are accepted. In Tanzania, they use the Shilingi, but USD is also common/accepted. Roads and the parks were very dusty, so don't wear white and bring a camera brush/cleaner. The roads were also bumpy, so ladies should wear sports bra. The tsi tsi flies in the Serengeti are no joke. Lube up with DEET/saltidin and don't wear navy blue nor black. The weather varied, be sure to pack accordingly. Temperatures are often much cooler in the mornings and evenings, during game drives. Layers are best. Risk of malaria was low at the time of year when I went, but it's worth checking with a travel clinic and deciding if you want to take antimalarials or not. Definitely bring binoculars. Because the parks are all protected, you can't off-road, and, in some places, the animals can be very far away from the roads. #safari #kenya #tanzania #nairobi #amboselinationalpark #amboseli #lakemanyaranationalpark #lakemanyara #ngorongorocrater #serengeti #masaimara #maasaimara #bigfive #gamedrive #africa #karuraforest #giraffecenter #giraffemanor #davidsheldrickelephantorphanage #carnivore

  • from the vineyard to the glass

    Cuvée, cellars, casks, corks, châteaus, charcuterie, cheese and charm pretty much sum up the wine-tasting tour that took me through some of France's most famous wine regions (Bordeaux, Saint Émilion, Beaujolais, Sancerre, Chablis and Paris). BORDEAUX Pair Bordeaux's production of world-famous fine wines with its exceptional gastronomy and it becomes evident why France's sixth largest city was a tasty place to begin my journey. Eat: Whilst in Bordeaux, do yourself a favor and enjoy a meal at Restaurant Influences. Started by a duo who met working at one of my favorite places to frequent when I used to live in San Francisco, La Folie (which has now closed, sadly), the couple then settled in Bordeaux and opened a restaurant with a delicious surprise tasting menu concept. SAINT ÉMILION About 30-miles from Bordeaux is a magical place that wine enthusiasts need no introduction to. This small wine appellation is renowned as one of the greatest wine regions in the world. It’s also an incredibly delightful ancient village, that was classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. STAY: As far as Airbnb's go, the one I stayed at in Saint Émilion was pretty fantastic. It was located right in the heart of the pedestrian village, had all the amenities one would need and was bright, charming and cozy. Taste: *Be sure to book your wine tastings in advance. **NOTE: Many places are not open on Sundays nor bank holidays. Château Ambe Tour Pourret - Try three wines, then buy a bottle of your favorite and enjoy it in the courtyard, along with some cheese and crackers. Château Croizille & Tour Baladoz - Experience both traditional and modern methods of wine production, with this two-for-one tour of neighboring wineries. It culminates in a tasting room with sweeping, panoramic views of the vineyards. Château Bellefont-Belcier - For €25 you'll taste a trio of wines in this 18th century estate (including one that retails for €150). Plus, you'll get some yummy paired nibbles as a bonus. Château Cardinal-Villemaurine - Just a few steps away from the center of Saint Émilion you'll find this lovely family-owned boutique winery. Christine, one of the owners, was welcoming and informative, the wines went down easily and the little, disabled dog was entertaining. Eat: L'Atelier de Candale - If you're getting around by foot, book this place for lunch, between tastings at Château Croizille and Château Bellefont-Belcier. Sit out on the beautiful terrace, amongst the grape vines, and enjoy the freshly grilled food. Le Bis - This place has a casual, neighborhoody sort of vibe. The cheese is out of this world and the entrecôte is cooked on an open flame, in a fireplace, by a comedic owner/chef. Chai Pascal - This 36-person cozy restaurant opened eight years ago and has since had an emphasis on traditional cuisine and, of course, wine. BEAUJOLAIS Beaujolais is bordered by Burgundy to the North; the Saône River to the East; Lyon to the South; and the Monts de Beaujolais to the West. I99% of the wines here are made from Gamay Noir grapes and tend to be light-bodied, acidic and low in tannins. Taste: To get a feel for the difference between commercial and independent wineries, I recommend doing tours/tastings at both of the following châteaus: Château de la Chaize - Designed by the same architect as Versailles, this 17th century castle is one of the most beautiful buildings in France. It covers more than 400 hectares, including 150 hectares of vines, making it the largest wine estate in Beaujolais. Following a recent major restoration of the chateau's wine making facilities, the equipment is top notch, pristine and very modern. Fabien de Lescure (Domaine de la Bouronière) - Conversely, this 11 hectare family-owned estate that has been passed down through the generations, follows a more traditional style of harvesting, crushing and pressing, fermentation and aging. I loved this winery the most. The lovely Joelle gave us a private tour, spent a lot of time answering our many questions and even refilled our glasses several time. Joelle is an active member of Femmes de Vin and is committed to highlighting the place of women in the world of wine. Eat: La Robe Rouge - The food is inventive, unique, delicious and prepared to perfection. You must book in advance. Lucienne fait des siennes - Located within a very cute, 11-room hotel, this funky little gem has mismatched furnishings and canine artwork adorns the walls. The dishes are designed to share and are full of flavor. Château de Pizay - I found the restaurant within this 4* hotel to be overwhelmingly just okay. The starters, bread, wine and desserts were delightful, but I didn't care for the mains all that much. It's still worth a visit to see the beautiful gardens and have a drink in the bar. SANCERRE Sancerre is not just a delicious, award-winning crisp, white wine, it's also an enchanting, medieval, hilltop village in the Loire Valley, with a maze of cobblestoned streets. Outside of the peak summer months, Sancerre is a pretty sleepy place, with only ~1,300 residents. A walk around the perimeter of town allows for beautiful views of lush vineyards and undulating fields. Stay: I highly recommend booking Le Logis St Pere for your accommodation. It's an unbelievable property, right in the center of the village. Parking is limited and a little difficult with the narrow streets, but it is free. Once we found a spot, we kept the car there for the duration and walked/taxied wherever else. Taste: Château de Sancerre - This was one of the most informative and interesting tours that we had on the whole trip. Coupled with a yummy tasting of four wines plus local goat's cheese and home-made biscotti, it was a real delight. Domaine de la Villaudière - Jean-Marie Reverdy & Fils - We didn't have a reservation, but we walked into this family run operation, to dodge the rain, and were pleasantly surprised! We tasted nine of their delicious wines and bought as much as we could carry back with us. Eat/Slurp: Taste Sancerre - We were welcomed here with a friendly atmosphere and beautiful views of the Sancerrois vineyards. With one Michelin star, dinner at Maison Medard is a must. In a recently renovated 13th century building, the local ingredients are honored in a modern and refined way. La Petite Maison - This spot has great service and inventive dishes, at an affordable price. At €20, the three-course lunch was a steal! Auberge Joseph Mellot - What this restaurant lacked in ambiance, it made up for in quality and price. We were the only people dining there, which was a bit odd. La Banque - This bar came recommended by just about every person we met in Sancerre, so we had to check it out. The former banking establishment turned trendy wine bar did not disappoint. Chèvrerie des Gallands - The perfect food to enjoy with a glass of Sancerre is the locally made creamy cheese known as Crottin de Chavignol. On our way out of Sancerre, we quickly stopped to taste some goat's cheese at a farm which is home to 150 goats and where the cheese is made fresh each morning. CHABLIS Chablis is the northernmost wine district of the Burgundy region in France. Its cool climate produces wines with more acidity and less fruitiness than Chardonnay vines grown in warmer conditions. Eat: Take a load off whilst enjoying some charcuterie, escargot, baguettes and, of course, locally produced Chablis at Marguerite de Chablis. This riverside spot is an ideal lunch spot. PARIS My French wine discovery adventure sadly came to an end in Paris. I had only planned on staying for one night, but ended up being there a few as a result of a Eurostar strike, which resulted in multiple train cancellations. Ultimately I ended up taking a grueling 9.5-hour bus-ferry-bus combination back to London. I would have flown, but I had bought too much wine in the previous 10 days. It wasn't the ideal end to a near-perfect trip, but there are worse places than Paris to get stuck for a few days. #bordeaux #saintemilion #beaujolais #sancerre #chablis #paris #france #wine #winetasting #frenchwine #vino #europe

  • the four corners of the middle east

    Whilst snorkeling in the Red Sea, above the Cedar Pride shipwreck, I took a minute to gaze out at the surrounding skylines of Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Israel and Egypt. Such an odd sensation to be so close to these interesting countries, but unable to explore them without proper documentation. It was during a recent 9-day tour around Jordan that I found myself at the junction of these four Middle Eastern nations. Jordan, officially called the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, is an Arab kingdom in Western Asia. It occupies a strategic location in the Middle East, sharing borders with Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria and Israel/Palestine and linking the Asian and African continents. Given the proximity of Jordan to its neighbors who are at war, it’s understandable that people have doubts about Jordan’s safety. While it is advised that all non-essential travel near the Syrian and Iraqi borders be avoided, the rest of Jordan is actually very safe. Jordanian security forces monitor conflict closely and they are committed to making security their number one priority, especially for tourists, since tourism is one of the most important elements contributing to Jordan’s economy. In addition to making tourists feel safe, the Jordanians are wonderfully welcoming. They view tourists as their guests. It’s not uncommon for the locals to strike up a conversation, ask lots of questions, give you information about their beloved nation or invite you to join them for tea. At one point a stranger in the airport even offered to let me use his mobile to contact the driver I had arranged. Lovely people is only one reason to visit Jordan. The real gems are the unique travel experiences and the archaeological interests including water activities in the Red Sea, visiting the lowest point on the planet, defying gravity in the Dead Sea, staying at a Bedouin Camp in Wadi Rum and exploring Petra (a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World). Jordan is quite small and can be navigated fairly easily by car or plane. Having now been, I would recommend some variation of the following itinerary, depending on how much time you have: Fly in and out of Amman Airport, but, in my opinion, there’s no real reason to spend a significant amount of time in Amman, unless you are there for business or to catch up with friends. Upon arrival in Amman, go straight to the Dead Sea. I visited both the Marriott and the Movenpick resorts there. Movenpick is much more spectacular, but the beach is quite a small area. The Marriott is also beautiful and has a bigger beach front area. Spend at least 1 day/night at the Dead Sea. Then fly or drive down to Aqaba and snorkel/dive/relax by the Red Sea. Royal Jordanian offers two cheap flights each day. I stayed at the Intercontinental. But there is also a very nice Movenpick down there and a brand new Westin is opening June 2017. From Aqaba, hire a driver or a car and go to Wadi Rum for a night or two. There are plenty of things to do there including: sleeping under the stars, rock climbing, trekking, horse riding, Jeep tours, etc. Head to Petra on a Monday, Wednesday or Thursday for Petra by Night (17 J.D.). Stay at either Petra Guest House or Movenpick. Both are very close to the entrance into Petra. Following Petra by Night, head to the Cave Bar, right at the entrance into Petra, for a drink or two. Wake up early the next morning and spend the full day exploring Petra (50 J.D.). You need a solid 4-6 hours to see Petra, and a comfy pair of shoes. One of the best parts about Petra is that you have the freedom to wander around anywhere within the confines. Don’t miss seeing the Monastery. It’s quite a hike, but well worth it. There are donkeys, mules and camels for hire, if you prefer not to climb all the stairs. Know Before You Go: Jordanian Dinar (J.D.) is the currency. At the time I visited it was 1:1 with the Great British Pound. Hotels are equipped with outlets that accommodate both UK and European plugs. Amman has Uber (albeit only a few drivers), but it’s a substantially cheaper option than taxi or car service arranged by hotels. The Dead Sea is about 50 minutes from Amman. At the Dead Sea, you will be at the lowest point on the planet – 420 meters below sea-level. If you have water shoes/waterproof sandals, you might want to consider bringing them and wearing them in the Dead Sea. It’s very rocky at the entrance. Don’t shave your legs before visiting the Dead Sea, ladies. Ouch! Don’t wear any jewelry in the Dead Sea. The minerals will tarnish it. Be prepared to be swatting a lot of flies when you’re by the Red or Dead Seas. Modesty and discretion should be exercised in both dress and behavior. You need your passport to buy your tickets into Petra. Driving in Jordan is a bit crazy. The traffic lanes are merely a suggestion. #jordan #middleeast #petra #wadirum #deadsea #redsea #amman #aqaba #petrabynight

  • ibiza, spain - still as charming as ever

    It's been some time since I last visited this blissful Balearic island, but I'm pleased to report that Ibiza is still just as heavenly as I remember it! All my previous recommendations still stand, but I thought I'd include a few more, based on my most recent trip. Beach Clubs: Ibiza offers a superb mix of beach clubs that cater to all all types of visitors, whether you’re looking for the best DJ set on the island, something bougie or just a chilled-out vibe. Because of Ibiza’s popularity, the beach clubs are often sold out months in advance. You can get lucky with a last-minute booking, but in order to avoid disappointment, I suggest advanced planning. Zazú: Right in the heart of Ibiza Town, this beachfront location has a delightful decor, a relaxed atmosphere and pretty yummy Asian style cuisine. Beachouse: Open for its 10th season. The bed packages, for four people, start at €200 - inclusive of a fruit platter, a bottle of champagne and four cans of water. Eat: Amante: I have been to Amante previously and can confirm that it is one of the best beach clubs and restaurants in Ibiza. Perched high on the edge of a cliff overlooking Sol Den Serra beach, Amante Ibiza is perfection from start to finish. Es Molí de Sal: You'll find this waterfront restaurant on the island of Formentera. The restaurant will come collect you, via speed boat, if you arrive by sea. Go for the view and ambience, stay for the salt crusted sea bass. Private Chef: If you're staying a villa or Airbnb and you want a really special meal, hire Tess to come cook for you. She is an absolute delight, very professional, easy to work with and her food is not only delicious, but also beautiful. I'm so pleased that Ibiza is still the charming destination I recall. It's a place where you can really choose your own adventure - let your hair down, enjoy the atmosphere, people watch to your heart's content, sip rosé all day, chill out on a Bali bed next to the sea and/or party into the wee hours at one of the island's world-famous clubs. #ibiza #eivissa #spain #formentera #balearicisland #europe #mediterranean

  • weekending in lyon, france

    Despite being France's third-largest city (behind Paris and Marseille), contestably the country's culinary capital and the home to a whole heap of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Lyon somehow remains largely overlooked by tourists. This underrated city manages to be simultaneously old and new, relaxed and exciting, metropolitan and intimate, making it a fabulous place to spend three-four days. Be sure to arrive in Lyon with an empty stomach because you’re going to want to eat everything. From family-owned bouchons, bistros, street cafés and brasseries to Michelin-starred contemporary cuisine, Lyon is a gastronomical paradise. I recommend dining at the following dinner spots: Les Enfants Terribles - You can't really go wrong with any of the restaurants on Rue Mercière, but this is one I happened upon. The space is quaint, the service is attentive and the food is traditional Lyonnaise. Regain - Don't let the lack of dress code and unassuming industrial, distressed interior confuse you, this is new-age fine dining. For dinner, they offer a three or four-course prix fixe menu, but there are several amuse-bouches included. Every dish is presented beautifully and is delicious. The portions are the perfect size, leaving you full, but not feeling uncomfortable. Léon de Lyon - This is a culinary institution of Lyon, dating back from 1904. A fine restored interior sets the stage for purebred French dishes with a new twist. In terms of daytime activities, let’s start at the top - literally. Take the funicular up from Vieux-Lyon station to Fourvière. It only takes a few minutes and costs €3.50. As soon as you exit the station, you will find yourself facing Notre-Dame de Fourvière. From almost anywhere in Lyon you can look up and see this basilica atop the city’s tallest hill. Built in the late 19th century, to honor the Virgin Mary and demonstrate the city’s wealth, this neo-Byzantine basilica has become the symbol of Lyon. Fourvière Hill is one of the best places to glimpse a panoramic view of Lyon. After exploring the ornate belly of the basilica head over to the terrace to view 2,000 years of history. Take the funicular back down to Vieux-Lyon and pop into Saint Jean Cathedral to admire the stained-glass work. If it's a nice day, take a stroll along the banks of the Saône and Rhône rivers, which split the city in three before converging in the south. If you have time, fixtures align and you're interested, go watch Olympique Lyonnais play football at Groupama Stadium. After exploring this lovely city, I highly recommend resting your head at the Boscolo Hotel. I really appreciated the lion touches (Lyon, lion...Get it?). It’s hard to resist the allure of Lyon, particularly without the bother of large crowds. Get there before that changes! #lyon #france #europe #auvergnerhônealpesregion #rhôneriver #saôneriver #olympiquelyonnais #groupamastadium

  • month in madeira, portugal

    I had visited Madeira only once, back in April 2022, for a long weekend. But I loved it so much that I recommended it to my parents as a destination to be considered for a month-long visit. Below were reasons I thought it would be a good extended-stay location: Everyone was so friendly Getting by in English was rather easy It was safe, clean and beautiful The food was amazing, and not terribly expensive It was easy to get around There were lots of things to do/see The weather was temperate After selling the idea to my folks, I decided to tag along. I thoroughly enjoyed spending the month of love and celebration on this delightful Portuguese island! Despite technically being 'off-season', with Valentine's Day and Carnival both occurring in February, Madeira was alive with color, decorations, festivities, parades, music and performances. The highlight of Carnival was the exuberant 'Allegoric Parade', which was held on Saturday 18th February, in Funchal. It featured about a dozen floats and more than 1,500 participants. On Fat Tuesday (21st February 2023), the 'Cortejo Trapalhão' (AKA the Slapstick Parade) took place. I had no idea what was happening, and I didn't understand most of the satire, but it was random, hilarious and good fun! As you can probably imagine, after such a long time spent in Madeira, I have quite a few recommendations (for dining, drinking, suntanning, hiking and visiting)... Restaurants: Whilst in Madeira, I ate. Boy did I eat! Nearly every morsel I inhaled, from hole in the wall bistros to Michelin-starred eateries, did not disappoint. My favorite dinners were at the following venues (in no particular order): Casal da Penha - This restaurant was not Michelin-starred, but Michelin did grant it a Bib Gourmand Award. This family-run restaurant was simple yet authentic. The terrace was adorable, with a view of a quaint church. Vila do Peixe - Located in Câmara de Lobos, a pretty fishing village, five kilometers from Funchal, was another delicious 'Bib' restaurant. We selected our fish, like we were at a market (sea bass and parrot fish for us). The fishies were weighed and grilled immediately. They were served with fresh veggies, potatoes and a beautiful view of the sea. Armazém do Sal - This rustic restaurant offered a contemporary take on traditional cuisine. I had ricotta ravioli with tempura asparagus, accompanied by a few glasses of Vinho Verde. Terreiro - As far as romantic courtyards were concerned, this place took the cake. We were able to comfortably dine outside because of the heaters, which was a bonus. Avista - With truly spectacular views, service and cuisine, this restaurant was deserving of its Michelin-star. I highly recommend the beef fillet, with lightly smoked mashed potatoes and barbecued pineapple. Wash it all down with a bottle of 2018 Casa da Passarella 'O Oenólogo' Vinhas Velhas. Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva Restaurant - Located within a former fort, both the space itself and the food served were works of art. I actually ate here twice during my time in Madeira because it was so unique. Start with the scallop carpaccio. For mains, I enjoyed both the courgette-wrapped scabbard fish and the fillet of Black Angus. Save room for the chocolate gold dessert. The Dining Room at Quinta da Casa Branca - The website did not do this place justice. Situated in a historic house, surrounded by gardens, The Dining Room was distinguished and elegant, but not pretentious. You really need to try the venison carpaccio with truffle ice cream to start. Mmmmmm! Kampo by Chef Júlio Pereira - This was my second time visiting this restaurant in as many trips to Madeira. Both times, I sat at the chef's table, which I highly recommend requesting when you book. The tuna tartare in a crunchy cone was the best starter. It sounds weird, but be sure to order the white chocolate, olive and passion fruit mousse for dessert. Ákua - Kampo's (more fishy, less meaty) sister restaurant. The chef's table at Akua was smaller and more intimate than at Kampo. It turned out, after pulling up photos from my April 2022 trip, that I had the same two chefs as when I visited Kampo the first time (shout out to Rodolfo and A. Ferreira). I tasted nearly every appetizer on the menu and I recommend them all. Il Gallo D'Oro - This culinary delight has well earned its two Michelin Stars. The 8-moment Top Experience menu + wine pairing (which was actually 12 courses), took 4-hours and was more of an edible 5* production than a meal. The cuisine was fresh, delicious and creative. It showcased a multitude of flavors using contemporary techniques and ingredients. Dishes ranged from gold foie gras hearts, to lobster with frozen gazpacho pearls and fancy breads/butters/salts to crab and suckling pig. Some less formal spots that were well worth munching at (for lighter meals) included: Why Not? - Bad name, good food. Really nice staff. Beef & Wines - Even worse name, but the chocolate mousse was to die for. Trust me! Rei da Poncha - Pair this steak sandwich with a poncha (or two) and you've got yourself an enjoyable afternoon. Bars: Whilst in Madeira, do as the Madeirans do...and drink Madeira wine, poncha and vino verde. I recommend consuming libations at the following watering holes: Skybar Galaxy at Savoy Palace Rooftop (16th Floor) - You must pay €15 per person to enter, but then the cover charge gets deducted from your tab at the end. Reid's Palace at the Belmond Hotel - This clifftop haven is classic and classy. Enjoy a libation alongside exquisite views on the terrace or a fancy cocktail in the Gastrobar. Dash Cocktail Bar - The cocktails were sweet, but the space was cool and the staff were attentive. Beaches: Many of Madeira's beaches were rocky, but I recommend catching some rays at the following sandy beaches: Calheta - Located west of Funchal, on Madeira's unspoiled southern shoreline. The sand was imported from the Sahara. The beach was quite small, but very pretty. Machico - East of Funchal you'll find this beautiful beach, with its artificial yellow sand and clear waters, nestled within lush mountains. Porto Santo Beach - To get here you need to take a 2.5-hour ferry from Funchal. But it's well worth the journey! Move over Greece, Italy and Spain, because this golden sand beach was awarded the title Best Beach in Europe 2022. Seixal Beach - Ranked #3 on Europe's Best Beaches 2022 list, was the volcanic black sand beach located on the north western coast of Madeira. It was definitely one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. Levadas: Madeira was home to more than 2,500kms of hiking (mostly footpaths alongside a network of narrow canals called levadas). In my time on the island, I hiked the following three: PR8 Ponta de São Lourenço (AKA Dragon's Tail) - Located at the far east of the island. This hike was moderately challenging and about 7.4km (there and back). Throughout the trek, I was rewarded with amazing coastal cliff and beautiful azure sea views. PR9 Levada Do Caldeirão Verde Trail - You'll find this lush stroll in the north/central part of the island, in Queimadas. It was a flat 12km jungley hike, with a waterfall at the halfway point. PR11 Levada dos Balcões - This was the perfect trail for a short, easy adventure (only 3km roundtrip). Be prepared for epic, dramatic views over Laurel Forest once you reach the balcony. Bring some birdseed with you if you fancy feeding the brave Firecrest birdies who will eat right from the palm of your hand. Other Things To Do: Visit the village of Santana, on the north coast of Madeira, to see the cute, small thatched roof A-framed houses. Cape Girão (Cabo Girão) Skywalk - At 580 meters above sea level, this glass-floored viewing platform (the second highest in the world) offered exhilarating downward views of the Atlantic Ocean. 4x4 Jeep Tour - I did a few half day Jeep tours, to various parts of the island. I highly recommend using Madeira Offroad Tours (ask for João to be your driver). Valley of the Nuns (AKA Curral das Freiras) - This village was built in the crater of an extinct volcano. It was once a place where nuns hid when pirates attacked Funchal. We didn't go to the actual village itself; instead we overlooked it from the Eira do Serrado viewpoint. The views were spectacular, and it was very peaceful up at 1,095 meters above sea level. 3D Museum - This interactive museum was goofy and fun for the whole family! Luckily, we had the place to ourselves so we could take endless pictures without any photobombers. Funchal to Monte Cable Car - Take a 15-minute cable car up from downtown Funchal to Monte. Once in Monte, to your left you'll find Monte Palace and Tropical Gardens. I did not go but it looked beautiful online. To your left, after exiting the cable car, you'll find Babosas Village, where I suggest you stop and get a bite to eat and/or a drink, before carrying on further to the left, down to cable car #2, which takes you to the Botanical Gardens. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Must try typical Madeiran foods include: Scabbard fish with flambéed banana and passion fruit, limpets (sort of like mussels), bolo do coca (bread) and lupini beans (a bar snack). If you take enough Bolts around the island you'll start to recognize the drivers. According to my Apple weather app, in February, it was 59°F/15°C every single day, which was hilarious because the weather actually varied from hot to hail and everything in between. We experienced 75-mph winds, sand storms (from the Sahara), cloudy weather, rain and even a cracking thunder and lightning storm. #funchal #câmaradelobos #capegirão #monte #seixal #machico #calheta #santana #portosanto #monte #madeira #madeiraisland #portugal #europe #carmnival #valentinesday #parade #levadas

  • madeira, portugal

    For the second time this year, I ventured to an island in the Atlantic Ocean, off the coast of Northwest Africa (the first time was to Lanzarote). On this occasion, I visited the relatively petite Portuguese archipelago known as Madeira - a volcanic island commonly referred to as the “Hawaii of Europe” because of its beautiful black-sand beaches, lush forests, cascading waterfalls, tropical flora and reliable sunshine. The journey from London was quick and trouble-free. The flight was just about three-hours as we landed 40-minutes early. I had pre-arranged an airport taxi (for €22.50), to take me to my hotel, NEXT Savoy Hotel, in Funchal (about a 30-min drive). The hotel granted me early check-in and upgraded me to a sea view. All was going my way! After checking into the hotel, my first order of business was to get some grub. I took a 15-minute cab to the civil parish of Monte and ate lunch at Babosas Village, which did not disappoint. I walked about five-mins to Monte Toboggan, paid €30 (cash only), hopped in a traditional wicker basket and was pushed/pulled down the steep hill, for about 2kms, from Monte to Livramento. The descent took about 10 minutes. I highly recommend this experience as it was completely unique to Madeira. *Tip: I asked the runners to take my photo beforehand, rather than buying the professional photos taken by photographers along the way. In the evening, I headed to the Câmara de Lobos municipality (traditional fishing village) for some poncha (an alcoholic mixture of lemon or orange juice, sugar, honey and sugarcane spirit). *Warning, after two, you might find that you can speak Portuguese, even if you can't. On the hill overlooking the fishing village, I had dinner at Vila do Peixe. This was said to be Câmara de Lobos' best seafood restaurant, offering high quality Madeiran fare. As you could probably guess, the restaurant's menu was largely seafood-based. I selected dragon fish from the display counter. It was sold by weight, lightly salted and grilled to perfection on acacia embers. Delicious and seasoned boiled potatoes, a selection of vegetables and a bottle of wine served as the perfect accompaniments. On Saturday morning, I had a little lie-in and then spent half of the day soaking up vitamin D at my hotel. After munching a quesadilla poolside, I walked into central Funchal, past Cristiano Ronaldo's hotel/museum/statue (a reminder of both a great talent and a great ego), to the 360° Sky & Poolside Bar at the Vine Hotel. Here I enjoyed a cocktail with a side of panoramic views. Just a few minutes further away by foot, I arrived at Funchal's new waterfront marina, at 3:30pm, for a three-hour whale watching tour. In terms of wildlife, I only saw a loggerhead turtle and a pod of common dolphins. No whales were spotted, but the weather was spectacular and the crew members were accommodating, so I wasn't too bothered. Snacks and an open bar were included and there was an opportunity to swim, if desired. Viewing Funchal from the ocean offered a unique perspective of the island's mountainous terrain and how the houses were nestled seemingly on top of one another into the steep hillside. It was nearly time for dinner by the time I disembarked from the catamaran. Since you're so close, I'd recommend heading into the Old Town (Zona Velha) and picking one of the traditional restaurants. Or maybe select one of the eight Michelin-starred restaurants Funchal has to offer?! For a nightcap, head to the Belmond Reid's Palace, a historic hotel located in the west of Funchal Bay, where Winston Churchill went, in 1950, to write his memoirs. Sit outside on the terrace at this luxurious haven and enjoy a Bellini with a view. My penultimate day in Madeira was spent exploring the island's striking landscapes in an open-top 4x4 Jeep. The terrain was very bumpy, and the temperature varied substantially, based on time of day and how much sunlight there was. *Tip: Wear layers and bring a towel/swimsuit. Also, bring money for lunch and cash for a gratuity, as neither of those were included. The full-day tour started and ended at my hotel (at 8:30am and 5:30pm respectively). Along the way, the tour took us through forests and mountains, to beaches, volcanic pools and waterfalls. It was an exciting way to see more of the island! Bouncing around in the back of a Jeep all day really made me develop an appetite. For dinner, it was Restaurant Kampo on my final night. At the Chef's Table, I had a ‘first class’ view of all that was happening. The menu was inventive, elegant and prepared with technique and originality - a real sensory dining experience! The video below was of the dancing 'black rice with octopus and shrimp' dish. After dinner, I went to the fifth floor of the funky Se Boutique Hotel where Rui made me a few delicious basil gin martinis. The next morning, I left Madeira behind physically, but it would not easily be forgotten! I was sad to say good bye to this truly stunning island, with its old-world charm, excellent gastronomy and adventurous spirit. Know Before You Go: Bolt was in operation, but taxis were also easily accessible Everyone spoke perfect English Carry cash for things like taxis, tips, ice cream and hot beverages The official currency was the Euro Driving was on the right side of the road Madeira had many newly asphalted roads and a recent dual carriage motorway with highly engineered tunnels that took you through/under the huge mountains The island was very safe Madeira was home to more than 2,500 kms of hiking (mostly footpaths alongside a network of narrow canals called levadas) #madeira #portugal #funchal #europe #atlanticocean #archipelago #volcanic #babosasvillage #monte #toboggan #livramento #câmaradelobos #poncha #portuguese #seafood #cristianoronaldo #oldtown #zonavelha #funchalbay #winstonchurchill #offroad #4x4 #jeep #levada

  • sidi bou säid, tunisia

    Perched on top of a cliff and surrounded by views of azure waters, you'll find Sidi Bou Säid. With its blue and white color scheme, it bears a certain resemblance to Santorini, Greece, but Sidi Bou Säid is actually in Africa, located about 12 miles north of Tunis, the capital of Tunisia. The village has become synonymous with art and creativity and its cobbled streets are lined with bohemian art shops, souvenir stalls and quaint cafés. ACCOMODATION: I was lucky enough to be able to stay in a friend of a friend's property, which has over 200 years of history. It was the formerly the family home of my acquaintance, but is now available to rent via Airbnb. This place is right smack in the middle of the pedestrian area of the village and offers five bedrooms with 11 beds, a library, two kitchens, a living room with a huge bay window, a dining room, a patio and a rooftop with breath-taking views of the Gulf of Tunis. It has all the charm of an old dwelling but has been modernized and decorated impeccably. FOOD/DRINK: Start your day by filling your belly at bleue! cafe. They offer delicious hot breakfast options, cakes/pastries and tea/coffee. Then, have lunch at Au Bon Vieux Temps, a romantic restaurant featuring Mediterranean and Tunisian classics. The food is complemented by mesmerizing ocean views and attentive service, and the wine list offers a chance to try local Tunisian vintages. I only went for a drink, but you could also try Dar Zarrouk for a meal. Also, there's The Cliff, if you fancy a fine-dining experience. DO/SEE: The most fruitful way to spend time in Sidi Bou Säid is to stroll through its winding passageways, taking photos of all the doors and visiting art galleries/restaurants at your leisure. Even with the crowds, Sidi Bou Säid somehow manages to feels both touristy and undiscovered at the same time. Once you've explored the tangle of narrow streets (maybe 2-3 hours if you inspect every nook and cranny), have a wander over to Carthage for a bit of culture and history. Carthage was strategically built on the Tunisian coast, to influence and control ships passing between Sicily and the North African. Rapidly becoming a thriving port and trading center, it eventually developed into a major Mediterranean power and a rival to Rome. From the middle of the 3rd century to the middle of the 2nd century BCE, Carthage was engaged in a series of wars with Rome, which ended in the defeat of Carthage and the expansion of Roman control. When Carthage finally fell in 146 BCE, the site was plundered and burned. The archaeological site of Carthage was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1979. After visiting Carthage, walk around the corner to the Baths of Antoninus (10 DT entrance fee) - ruins of the largest Roman baths outside Rome itself. Only the foundations remain, but they are substantial enough to give an impression of the complex’s size and opulence in its heyday. *Note: It is illegal to take photographs in the direction of the presidential palace. Doing so may land you in jail for up to three years, though the guards don't appear too concerned. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: I had barely any mobile service whilst in Tunisia, and WiFi was scarce. The currency is the Tunisian Dinar, but you can also use Euros. Credit cards can be used in some places, but AMEX is not accepted anywhere. European plugs are used. When you fly out of Tunis-Carthage International Airport, you will need to have a paper boarding pass; they cannot accommodate mobile boarding passes, even though the airline will allow you to check in online and download them. Bolt operates in Tunisia and is the best way to get around, although you can't pay through the app; you must have cash. Smoking is allowed everywhere - even in restaurants. #sidibousaid #carthage #tunis #tunisia #africa

  • 2022 travels

    Good riddance, 2021! You were less like a year, and more of a mutated variant of 2020. Yet again we, monotonously, spent the majority of the year working from/staying at home, watching too much telly and feeling uncertain about everything - particularly travel, where plans were everchanging to align with fluctuating COVID-19 infection rates and restrictions. Some were fortunate enough to have traveled domestically in 2021, mostly dipping their toes into staycations. Few were lucky enough to have gone away internationally - returning home, visiting loved ones or maybe even ticking off a bucket list trip. Others were left with only tales of cancellations, monetary losses and quarantines. In 2022 though, civilization rebooted, and we emerged from the pandemic with restored confidence. Society reimagined what travel looked like and realized new experiences. But there were setbacks as we eased into The Next Normal. According to CWT, air fares in 2022 rose by 48.5% and hotel rates by 18.5%. This was due to pent-up holiday demand coupled with skyrocketing inflation, rising fuel prices, labor shortages, strikes, the Russian-Ukraine conflict and travel companies trying to claw back lost earnings from the previous few years. This year, instead of racing to get the next passport stamp, I found that I traveled more intentionally. I took fewer, but longer, trips. Being a digital nomad, liberated me from having to go into the office and afforded me extended stays. Highlights in 2022 included dining in caves (Lanzarote and Polignano a Mare), drifting above mystical and magical landscapes in hot air balloons (Cappadocia and the Serengeti) and straddling continents in intercontinental states (Turkey, Georgia and Armenia). Read on for more about the lands where my tiny green shoes tread. JANUARY I managed to completely switch off during my winter break in the Canary Islands. The eight days spent in Fuerteventura and Lanzarote were incredibly relaxing and left me feeling revived, refreshed and ready for a fresh year. With Omicron still sweeping the globe, most of the remainder of January was spent at home, with reduced social contact and taking the recommended precautions to avoid infection...unsuccessfully. After nearly two years of avoiding the virus, I joined the COVID club, alongside 334M others worldwide. Luckily, I wasn't all that ill, didn't have too many plans to cancel/reschedule and no travel plans were affected. FEBRUARY Recovered from COVID, but sick of the UK's dark, damp and dreary winter weather, I really appreciated a solid dose of Floridian sunshine. After 21 hours of transit, I was pleased to arrive in St. Augustine, for a family wedding. At the end of President's Day weekend, I headed south, to Naples, where my next few weeks consisted of dolphin watching, airboat cruising, fantasy house hunting, suntanning, playing tennis/pickleball/bocce, living it up in Miami and enjoying lots of quality time with family/friends/colleagues. MARCH On my penultimate day in Florida, I attended the 2022 Swamp Buggy Cup Championship in Naples. Unique to Collier County, I had never seen anything like this before. It was like NASCAR met mud wrestling on Tinder and had a baby out of wedlock. Buggies lost wheels, capsized, broke down, got caught in sink holes and crashed into each other. The spectators were as interesting as the races. I returned to London in time to observe the first St. Paddy's Day in three years where we were able to celebrate outside of our living rooms. You can bet your pot of gold that I was shaking my shamrocks. APRIL I took advantage of the first two bank holidays of 2022 by visiting Polignano a Mare, Puglia, Italy, for the Easter long weekend. The high point was dining at Grotto Palazesse, a restaurant built into a cliff, that I've been wanting to eat at for many years! Just four days after returning from Italy, I traipsed down to the South of France to meet up with a friend who was on gardening leave (lucky girl). We visited Nice, Cannes and Antibes over the course of five days, experiencing all the glitz and glamor that Côte d'Azur had to offer! MAY The bank holiday weekend was spent exploring the 'Hawaii of Europe' (AKA Madeira, Portugal). The island was truly stunning, with its old-world charm, excellent gastronomy and adventurous spirit! JUNE Her Majesty The Queen became the first British Monarch to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee, after 70 years of service. As such, we in the UK received an extra day off, providing a four-day weekend. I took two additional days off and jetted off to Turkey, which officially changed its name to Türkiye whilst I was there. I visited Cappadocia and Istanbul. I absolutely adored everything about this trip! The hot-air balloon ride over the surreal terrain of Cappadocia, in particular, was an experience I won't soon forget. JULY A long weekend was spent in Marbella, Spain with some friends. We had a nice, relaxing time, eating all the Spanish tapas and exploring swanky beach clubs like Nosso. Then I went to the bohemian city known as Tblisi, Georgia, with a day trip to Armenia. If for no other reason (although there are many), go to Georgia for the food! Georgian cuisine is highly under-rated. AUGUST Anyone keen to visit the ugliest European capital, in one of the least visited, poorest and unhappiest countries, which also happens to border a nation at war with Russia? I did. So off I went to Chișinău, Moldova. And I must say, I was surprised at how much I liked it. Low expectations did help. SEPTEMBER After a year and a half of planning, I finally made it to Kenya and Tanzania. I went with my parents, to celebrate my mum's 70th. The trip was exceptional! There's nothing quite like being out in the African bush, up close and personal with free-roaming lions, buffalos, leopards, zebras, elephants, cheetahs, giraffes, hippos, etc., etc. OCTOBER Japan reopened for tourists (yay!), fall colors were on display in a big way (gorgeous!) and the UK's political system was crumbling (eek!). Kwasi Kwarteng was dismissed as Chancellor after his 'mini-budget' was negatively received by the world financial markets, resulting in the British Pound falling to near-historic lows against the US dollar. Shortly after, British Prime Minister Liz Truss announced her resignation just six crisis-filled weeks after taking office, becoming the shortest-lived PM in UK history. Rishi Sunak took office next. He would become the fifth PM we've had in the UK in the eight years I have lived here. Leaving politics behind, myself and eight family members met in Ireland to watch my cousin cross the finish line at the Dublin Marathon. NOVEMBER Four of us escaped to Marrakech, Morocco for a luxurious and relaxing girl's weekend filled with all that the Red City has to offer: sunshine, massages, shopping, dining and rooftops. My annual United States Thanksgiving Turkey Tour started off in mid-November, when I flew into Boston, Massachusetts. It continued on to Connecticut and then New York City. DECEMBER Turkey Tour 2022 ended with six days spent in Nashville, Tennessee, which was absolutely brilliant! Nashville was oozing with Southern hospitality, endless entertainment and was delicious in every way! After an uncharacteristically cold month, the I was ecstatic to ring in 2023 in Muscat, Oman, where the weather was lovely and there were wadis and sinkholes to explore! While many aspects of travel returned to pre-pandemic normalcy this year, there is still plenty to remind us that things aren’t quite the same as they used to be. It is encouraging, however, to see that our world is getting a little bit easier to explore. As this year comes to a close, I’d like to say good bye to a smattering of UK Prime Ministers, crossbody bum bags, Kanye West, endless strikes and Twitter...And a great big hello to a four-day work week (a girl can dream), steps towards lifting the 100ml liquids restriction and a new year filled with travel, laughter and adventure. STATS FROM MY 2022 TRAVELS: Trips: 14 (23 in 2019; 8 in 2020; 10 in 2021) Air Miles Flown: 53,719 (it's 24,900 miles around the world) Airline Segments Flown: 29 (48 in 2019; 18 in 2020; 12 in 2021) Airlines Flown: 10 (14 in 2019; 5 in 2020; 4 in 2021) Amount of Time Spent in the Air: 121 hours (183 in 2019; 57 in 2020; 55 in 2021) Total Countries Visited: 16 (17 in 2019; 6 in 2020; 6 in 2021) New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 7 (9 in 2019; 0 in 2020; 1 in 2021) Continents Visited: 4 (North America, Asia, Africa & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hotel/Airbnb: 60 (67 in 2019; 35 in 2020; 25 in 2021) #yearinreview #yearintravel #2022 #lanzarote #spain #canaryislands #europe #florida #usa #naples #maimi #staugustine #northamerica #puglia #italy #southoffrance #cannes #antibes #nice #france #madeira #funchal #portugal #turkey #cappadocia #istanbul #asia #marbella #spain #costadelsol #georgia #tbilisi #armenia #chisinau #moldova #nairobi #kenya #amboseli #lakemanyara #ngorongorocrater #serengeti #maasaimara #masaimara #safari #tanzania #marrakech #marrakesh #morocco #boston #massachusetts #newington #connecticut #newyorkcity #newyork #nashville #tennessee #dublin #ireland #muscat #oman #middleeast

  • oman and bahrain

    For 22 consecutive years, I have celebrated New Year's Eve in a different city/country. To keep the tradition alive for a 23rd year, I made way to the Middle East. It was a bit of a funny choice, since Muslim nations don't celebrate the Gregorian New Year, but it was warm and sunny, and I got to explore two lands where I had never been before. The first stop was Oman... OMAN Only in the last 50-odd years, under the rule of the former, and beloved, Sultan Qaboos, was Oman's infrastructure and landscape transformed from near-medievalism to modernity. Using oil revenues, schools and hospitals were erected, hundreds of miles of road were paved, a telecommunications network was established, discrimination and slavery were abolished and ports and airports were built. Qaboos was determined to preserve Oman’s traditional society while incorporating a modern framework. As such, Oman isn't flashy like its Emirati neighbour (I'm looking at you, Dubai). There are no high-rises and it's not in the running for the biggest, tallest, newest, glitziest of anything. In fact, no building in Muscat (the capital) is permitted to be more than 17 stories and all buildings must be white. Residents must obtain special permission to paint their house any other color. Today, Oman is still a developing nation, but it has a solid infrastructure for tourism and globetrotters are starting to catch on. Although there are many things to do and see in Oman, I must admit that I was pretty lazy. After a long year, I was craving pure relaxation. The only thing I had any desire to work on was my tan. I did manage one excursion though, which I highly recommend. On this day trip, the first, and best, stop was Wadi Shab. It was about a 1.5-hour drive from Muscat (I recommend getting there for 8am). If you're lucky, a tribe of wild goats will greet you in the parking lot. After parking, be sure to use the bathroom, as you'll have a long journey ahead of you (bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer). Post-pitstop, take a very short boat ride across the river (I'm talking REALLY short, like under three minutes). Unless you're going as part of a pre-arranged tour, the journey will cost you about 1 Omani Rial. The first boat is at 8am and the final one coming back is around 5pm. The opposite side of the river is where the 45-minute hike begins. Do not listen to anyone who tells you that this is an easy walk. It's definitely more of a moderate hike. You must climb slippery boulders, hop over puddles, navigate uneven surfaces and balance on narrow viaducts. Be sure to wear shoes with good tread (like trainers or hikers). Once you get to the crystal-clear blue water pools, you'll know it. You won't be able to walk any further. The only way to carry on to the secret waterfall inside a cave is by swimhiking. Find a spot to stash your gear and get in! The water was surprisingly warm. The first pool was shallow and crowded. The second pool got deeper and the third required strong swimming skills. At the very end of the third pool, there was a narrow passage, just about big enough for your head to fit through, if you swim sideways. Once through the slender sea corridor, you end up in a cave with a waterfall. Do not attempt this if you are not a confident swimmer, as you will have to be able to tread water/swim for quite a while. You will not be able to stand once inside the cave and there aren’t many places to hang on. I don't have any pictures from within because I couldn't get my phone out of my dry bag without drowning. Once you're tired and can't hang on in the cave any longer, do the whole thing in reverse -- swimhike, hike, boat. Allow at least 3 hours for the whole adventure. *A few tips: Wear your swimsuit as there is nowhere to change; don't have any valuables with you as there is no secure place to store belongings (although Oman is very safe); bring water for the hike, a towel that you don't mind getting dirty, a bag for wet stuff, water shoes (it's very rocky); goggles and a dry bag for your camera/phone. After Wadi Shab, it was onwards to Fins Beach, which you could probably give a miss. It's pretty much just a pebbly fishing beach. The last stop on the day trip was the Bimah Sinkhole natural wonder. It was late in the day by the time we arrived, and it was moderately crowded, so we didn't stay long nor swim. New Year's Eve was rung in at both the Intercontinental and the Crowne Plaza hotels. The Intercontinental offered more of a kid-friendly vibe whilst the Crowne Plaza was a paaartay. There were approximately 600 people, carrying on into the wee hours of the morning! After Oman, it was on to Bahrain... BAHRAIN The Kingdom of Bahrain (AKA the pearl of the Arabian Gulf) is located in one of the world’s chief oil-producing regions, but only stores small amounts of petroleum itself. Instead, its economy relies on financial, commercial services and communications sectors, as well as tourism. The country’s chief city, port and capital, Manama, is strikingly modern, relaxed and cosmopolitan. Bahrain was really just a long stopover on my journey. I spent about 28-hours there in total. And it rained for most of that time. To pass the hours, I lunched at a restaurant on Manama's artificial Reef Island and then spent the afternoon shopping at the Gold City, where I decided to treat myself to something sparkly to start the year off right. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: E-visas are necessary for Americans in both Oman (~$97) and Bahrain (~$25). Brits can visit Oman for up to 14-days without a visa, but do require an e-visa for Bahrain. In Oman, don’t worry about tipping; it is not customary nor expected. Service charges may be added on to hotel meal bills though. In both locations, tourists can only drink alcohol in hotels and restaurants with a proper liquor license. There wasn’t an ‘Omani Cuisine’ as such, but rather an eclectic mix of traditional Middle Eastern fare enhanced with foreign spices from India and East Africa. Both Muscat and Manama were safe and clean. The people were friendly, but there was no real sense of urgency in either place, so bring your patience with you. UK plugs are used in both countries. In Oman, you can use Otaxi to get around. Bahrain has Uber. #muscat #oman #sultanateofoman #manama #wadishab #finsbeach #bimahsinkhole #bahrain #kingdomeofbahrain #reefisland #goldcity #middleeast #newyearseve #nye #arabiangulf #arabianpeninsula #gulfofoman #persiangulf #arabiansea

  • nashville, tennessee

    Nashville is known as the Music City because of the important role it has played in music history, but it's so much more than just a music mecca. This city has something for everyone, whether you're a foodie, party animal, history buff or sports fanatic. Nashville is absolutely brilliant, oozing with Southern hospitality, endless entertainment and is delicious in every way! Read on for my suggested guide to this fine city... Where to Stay: Dream Nashville is a sleek 168-room hotel located on 4th Avenue, in walking distance to just about everything that makes Nashville's heart beat: Printer's Alley, Broadway, the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum, Ryman Auditorium, Bridgestone Arena, Nissan Stadium as well as endless bars, rooftops and restaurants. It's also, conveniently, only a 15-minute drive from BNA International Airport. Getting Around: The best way to explore Nashville is on foot, so hotel location is clutch. As far as I can tell, public transportation isn't really a thing in Nashville, apart from a few busses. It's also not a city where it's easy to raise your arm and hail a taxi, but ride share apps like Lyft and Uber are affordable and work rather well. Where to Eat: Unique and appetizing restaurants are plentiful and can be found in every Nashville neighborhood. Whether you’re seeking traditional Southern country cooking or want to indulge in Michelin-starred cuisine, Nashville's food scene is guaranteed to leave you fat and happy. Fuel up for the day with breakfast at Biscuit Love or brunch at Church and Union. For lunch, gorge on BBQ at Peg Leg Porker in the Gultch, enjoy Mexican at Mas Tacos Por Favor in East Nashville or overindulge with a basket of hot chicken at one of the four Hattie B’s locations. If you have any space left in your tummy for dinner, I recommend Skull’s Rainbow Room. Go for the prime rib and stay for the live jazz/burlesque. You'll need to book in advance. If you're celebrating a special occasion and you feel like splurging, dine at Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak on the 34th floor of the JW Marriott, with spectacular views of Nashville's city lights. Broadway Honky Tonks: Nashville is the home of country, the birthplace of bluegrass and a hotspot for nearly all other musical genres. Y'all best put on your faded blue jeans and cowboy hats, shine up them boots and head on down to Broadway (AKA Honky Tonk Highway), day or night, for world-class live music, 365 days a year. Visit any of the down-home bars along this neon-lit strip to hear legends and wannabe stars playing covers for tips and free booze. Of all the honky tonks, my favorites were Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, Robert’s Western World, Lucky Bastard Saloon and The Stage. Be sure to have your ID on you (I got carded in most places). Other Things to Do: If you can tear yourself away from the music and alcohol for a few hours, take in a bit of music history at the Country Music Hall of Fame and/or the Johnny Cash museums. Both were great! Attend a live radio show taping at one of America's most iconic venues: The Grand Ole Opry or the Ryman theater. With three professional sports teams and a AAA baseball team, sports fans are spoiled for choice in Nashville. If schedules align, I highly recommend going to Bridgestone Arena, home of the Nashville Predators, for a fun-filled night of ice hockey. Whatever you fancy, you're likely to find it in Tennessee's capital city. Nashville delivers a far more diverse experience than its music-centric reputation might have you believe. #nashville #smashville #broadway #honkytonk #honkytonk #musiccity #tennessee #usa #northamerica #predators

  • day trip to armenia

    As Tbilisi, Georgia is only about an hour and a half from the Armenian border and I thought it might be interesting to spend a day seeing what there is to see in Armenia. For ease and convenience, I booked a full-day private tour via Get Your Guide. I was picked up and dropped off at my hotel, which was quite handy. As an American, an entrance visa is not required for Armenia, but it's worth researching your nationality's visa requirements ahead of time, so you have the correct paperwork and aren't held up at the border.. Border crossing process: Bagratashen-Sadakhlo is the most popular and busiest border control point between Georgia and Armenia. The immigration process is pretty straightforward, and your driver/guide will chaperone you through. When you arrive at the border, you’ll have to get out of the car and exit Georgia by foot. You'll then get back in the car and drive across the river to the Armenian checkpoint, where you again cross by foot. The driver will clear customs with the car then pick you up on the other side, ready to drive into Armenia. Currency exchange: Armenia uses the Armenian dram (AMD), a different currency to their neighbors using the Georgian lari (GEL). You'll want to have some cash on you for lunch, a possible boat trip, souvenirs and tips. The restaurant we went to did accept credit cards, but I don't know if that's common or not. I suggest exchanging 30-50 GEL. After the border crossing, our driver stopped at a supermarket/currency exchange desk where you can buy dram. ATM's are very hard to come by and if you do find one, its likely to be out of order, so get money when you can. Language: I did not find English to be widely used in Armenia. People obviously speak Armenian, but also, Russian is common. It was helpful to have a guide with us who could speak English and Russian and could communicate on our behalf. Our first stop, after driving several hours, was lunch. We ate Sevan trout, a fish species endemic to Lake Sevan, whilst overlooking Lake Sevan. You can't really get fresher than that! After lunch, we started our tour of Lake Sevan - the Jewel of Armenia. It is one of the largest high-mountainous freshwater lakes in the world. In the northwest part of Sevan Lake, on a narrow rocky peninsula, there stands one of the most prominent examples of medieval Armenian architecture – Sevanavank Monastery. If the weather is nice and you get the opportunity, make sure to enjoy a water cruise on Lake Sevan. Looking back at the shore, from the water, is a nice perspective! After Lake Sevan, we visited Lake Parz - a small lake located in Dilijan National Park. The lake was formed by natural climatic changes. Our final stop was at a vantage point where we could see the border between Armenia and Azerbaijan (that strip of land in the middle of the reservoir). I found this particularly interesting because Armenia and Azerbaijan do not have a friendly past. They have fought each other in two wars since the Soviet Union collapsed: First from 1988-1994 and then in 2020, when more than 6,500 people died in six weeks of fighting. The most recent conflict ended with Russia brokering a ceasefire agreement under which Armenia ceded large parts of Nagorno-Karabakh -- a territory nestled between the two countries. On the same day I visited Armenia, 16th July 2022, Foreign ministers of Armenia and Azerbaijan met for the first time in 2020, in neutral Tbilisi, to "advance discussions" on a peace treaty. On our way back toward the Georgian border, we passed a convoy of black vehicles transporting the Armenian Foreign minister home, which was pretty cool. It's impossible to get a good feel for Armenia in such a short period of time, covering such a small part of the country, but I think a day trip to Armenia, from Tbilisi, is worthwhile, as long as you do the day trip with a private guide and arrive with realistic expectations. #armenia #lakesevan #lakeparz #georgia #tbilisi #azerbaijan #sevanavankmonastery

  • tbilisi, georgia

    If sleeping in a chic converted printing house, eating delightful cuisine, trying anti-corporate wines, visiting bars/galleries/vintage concept stores housed in repurposed factories and discovering hidden, or at least sparsely marked, speakeasies interests you, then you should consider visiting Tbilisi, Georgia! Located between Western Asia and Eastern Europe, there is some debate as to which continent Georgia belongs. Although the Caucasus Mountains are sometimes considered to be the easternmost border of Europe, and, culturally, many Georgians identify as European, the country is technically located on the Asian continent. If you want to be diplomatic and precise, you can say that Georgia is located in the Caucasus region of Eurasia. Tbilisi is the capital of and the largest city in Georgia. It is also one of the oldest and safest cities in the world. In the past few years, Tbilisi has undergone something of a bohemian renaissance and is now an eclectic, dynamic and intriguing destination to visit. Thus far, it's been spared from mass tourism as well. Here are a few of my top recommendations for Tbilisi, if you visit for a weekend: ACCOMODATION I highly recommend staying in the modern and whimsical Stamba Hotel, which is located in a former Soviet publishing house, with quirky elements of the building still preserved, such as the Communist-era print-drying beams in the atrium. It is frequented by trendy locals, oligarchs, influencers, models and hippies alike. According to CNN, "Stamba isn't just the best hotel in Georgia—it's one of the best urban hotels in the northern hemisphere." WALKING TOUR Each of Tbilisi’s neighborhoods has a completely different history and feel. Free walking tours are available, if you want to take advantage of a local guide's knowledge. Otherwise, for more flexibility, you can follow the self-guided tour I have mapped out below. Tbilisi is a relatively small city. It shouldn't take you more than a few hours to see many of the highlights, by foot. If you do want to use taxis at any point though, Bolt is operational in Tbilisi and is a good, cheap option. Start off your walking tour in the labyrinth that is the Old Town (known as the Kala district), characterized by its cozy pedestrian streets and pastel-colored houses, with traditional carved wooden balconies. Walk up Betlemi Street, famous and visit the vintage, stained-glass Kaleidoscope House. This architectural jewel was unfortunately closed due to its poor condition (you will notice that large parts of the Old Town are in a shocking state of disrepair), but maybe you'll have more luck when you visit. Walk up the hill to Narikala Fortress, which can be seen from every part of Tbilisi (if you don't fancy the steep schlep, you can also take the cable car up from Rike Park). The fortress was established in the 4th century, around the period when the city itself was founded. From here, you will have great views of the Mtkvari River and the rest of the city. To cool yourself off, after hiking up to the fortress, visit the Leghvtakhevi Waterfall, located within the Botanical Gardens. Whilst still in Old Town, wander around the ancient district of Abanotubani. Abanotubani literally translates to 'bath district', which explains why this area is known for its traditional public bathhouses (they use the sulphurous waters of hot springs that run underneath the city). One of the most famous is the Orbeliani Bath (pictured below). Be sure to also visit the fairy-tale-like leaning clock tower, located in front of the Gabriadze Puppet Theater. If you get there at the top of any hour, you'll see an angel pop out of a door on the top balcony to strike the bell. Walk along the Peace Bridge. Made of glass and curvy steel, this 150-meter pedestrian modern structure connects the Old Town and the New Town. At night, 5,300 white LED lights rhythmically travel across the bridge translating messages of life and peace in Morse code. If you cross the bridge to the left bank of the river, you'll find yourself in Rike Park. The park is full of flowers and fountains. Fun fact: The park is built in the shape of Georgia, which you can see from an aerial view (which is now possible, from a nearby tethered hot air balloon). SWIM At the height of summer, Tbilisi is a heat trap. Simply traversing the city can be a life-sapping slog. The most expensive thing I did in Tbilisi, but also the most refreshing, was hiring a sunbed at the Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel pool. It was worth every Georgian Lari (all 125 of them) to get some relief from the high temperature. EAT ALLLLLLL THE CHEESE A Nineteenth-Century Russian poet, Alexander Pushkin, once wrote that “Every Georgian dish is a poem”. That's pretty high, but deserved, praise! In my opinion, Georgian food is one of the most underappreciated cuisines. Georgia’s food reflects its geographic position between Europe and Asia, combining ingredients from East and West. My two favorite dishes include khachapuri (Georgia's cousin to pizza) and khinkhali (boiled dumplings, the size of tennis balls). Below are a few restaurants that I recommend: Located in an old house, down a narrow street, in the gold quarter of Tbilisi, you'll find Shavi Lomi (which means black lion). This restaurant has no signage and is even difficult for even local taxi drivers to find. But once you locate the entrance, you'll enter a quaint garden with a huge mural of a lion. It's the ideal setting for hipsters, cool kids, artsy types and tourists. They offer a unique menu, using the freshest of ingredients, creating traditional Georgian cuisine with a twist. Lolita, located across the street from Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, is in a 19th-century building that was once a residency to some of Georgia's most prominent cultural and artistic figures. Its informal, vibey, indoor-outdoor courtyard design is unique and the open kitchen makes you feel like you're in Manhattan. Enjoy views of Abanotubani while eating delicious food, at a reasonable price at Terrace Botanica. If you tire of Georgian cuisine, fill up on pasta at Republic Rooftop, at almost any time of day or night (its open until 4am). In addition to good food, there was also live music when I was there. DRINK Despite Georgia's reputation as the birthplace of winemaking, I struggled to find any that I actually enjoyed (not for lack of trying). Georgia uses the qvevri method whereby clay pots filled with grape juice are buried and the liquid is left to slowly ferment, over five-six months. This process produces unique wines that Georgians are tremendously proud of, but the flavor profile isn't attractive to everyone (including me). No wonder they were giving it away for free on the streets! If you want to try to enjoy the wines (or other adult beverages), here are few places to do so: Balcony 12 on Shavteli Street is a romantic and cozy place to sit, enjoy a beverage and listen to the nice lady play the piano. The Fabrika complex is a former sewing factory that has been transformed into a hub for artist studios, co-working space, cafes, bars and a hostel. It's a vibrant place full of young hipsters, creativity and good vibes. Despite its small size, Georgia's capital has a lot to offer and is worth a visit before everyone else discovers this secret spot. While the city is small enough to be covered in a weekend, its architectural eclecticism, thriving restaurant and bar scene and wealth of cultural offerings make it worth a longer stay. #westernasia #easterneurope #georgia #caucasusmountains #europe #asia #eurasia #tbilisi

  • turkey today; türkiye tomorrow

    Merhaba, fellow travelers! When I started my trip, the country was called Turkey; when I left it was Türkiye. Three days into my visit, the nation reclaimed its non-anglicized name by registering as Türkiye (pronounced tur-key-yay) with the United Nations. The official reason, according to the President, was that “Türkiye represents and expresses the culture, civilization and values of the nation in the best way”, but I believe the rebrand was more of an attempt to dissociate from the bird. Let's see if the new moniker catches on. There were many places I wanted to visit in Turkey/Türkiye, but I only had six days, so I limited myself to two destinations - the geological wonderland of Cappadocia and the eclectic metropolis of Istanbul. Both were incredibly picturesque and had welcoming people, delightful cuisine, a culture with depth, bucket-list-worthy adventures and a wealth of Instagrammable views. Speaking of Instagram, Türkiye made a real effort to cater to the image-focused influencer culture. In Cappadocia, very early each morning, hotels set up a full breakfast spread so that people could use it as a prop when capturing their perfect snaps. In Istanbul, Kubbe rooftop, formerly a café and art gallery, was turned specifically into a photography location with an entrance fee of 100 TL. Instagrammers were welcomed here to take photos amongst Turkish carpets, patterned cushions, ornamental fruit-filled platters and traditional glasses of tea. Travel to the Cappadocia region in central Türkiye was arduous, as the UK airports struggled to cope with the increased demand brought on by school vacation and the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee bank holiday. I queued at check-in for over two hours, even though I wasn't checking a bag (my Turkish visa needed to be examined before a boarding card could be issued). Security lines were just as long and chaotic, which meant I had to sprint to my gate - a fruitless endeavor, as the flight to Istanbul ended up being delayed, on the tarmac, for two-hours. The setback's knock-on effect meant that I missed my connection to Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (after yet another gate dash). Luckily, the Turkish Airlines customer service team rerouted me, on a much later flight, into Kayseri Airport. It was a long, sweaty and frustrating day, but I arrived at my hotel with two hours to spare before my pre-booked hot-air balloon adventure. I stayed at the lovely, Insta-famous Sultan Cave Suites. Terraced above the town of Göreme (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985), this unique cave hotel offered panoramic views of the village, surrounding valleys, mountains and Mount Erciyes. The staff members were incredibly accommodating and the food was excellent (breakfast was included). The good people at Turquaz Balloons collected me at my hotel at 4:10am the morning of my hot-air balloon flight. I was taken to their headquarters to check-in and was offered tea and pastries before being driven to the launch site (which varied each day based on wind direction and flight zones). As we arrived, the balloon was being filled with hot air in preparation for the 12 passengers (maximum capacity of 20) who would be flying that morning. More than 25 companies and 200 hot-air balloons have been registered to operate balloon tours in Cappadocia. 150 fly nearly every morning (weather permitting), giving over 2,000 people the experience of a lifetime. The balloons, like airplanes, were registered with the aviation authority and were subject to regular safety checks to ensure airworthiness. Hot-air balloon pilots in Cappadocia have undergone examinations, have a prescribed number of flight hours, have passed flight tests and have aced medical checks. This was our pilot's first ever commercial flight, which he did not disclose until after we safely landed. The formation of the magical landscape of Cappadocia dates back millions of years. Ancient volcanic eruptions blanketed the region in thick ash, which later solidified into a soft rock called 'tuff'. Rain, wind and other weather conditions created the valleys, canyons and the unique rock formations called ‘Peri Bacaları’ (AKA Fairy Chimneys) seen today. Floating above one of the most interesting and surreal terrains in the world was a magical experience and an exceptional way to get breath-taking views of this stunning region. Our pilot had us ebbing and flowing above and right down into valleys, amongst the volcanic formations. The post-flight champagne medal ceremony was a nice touch too. Even if you don’t fancy a flight, it’s worth getting up early to see the colorful aerial display from the ground. For optimal views, aim to be on your hotel's rooftop by 5:10am. Exhausted from lack of sleep and two consecutive early mornings, I spent the majority of the day lounging by the pool at Kelebec Special Cave Hotel (one of Sultan Cave Suites sister properties). After catching up on rest and vitamin D, I wandered into the center of Göreme to see what it was all about and to indulge in Turkish food and wine. I visited Haruna Restaurant, in the Carus Hotel, first for a drink. The terrace provided spectacular views of the town. Then it was onwards to Viewpoint Cafe & Restaurant for more panoramic views and adult beverages as well as some shisha and catchy tunes! I ended the night with dinner at Dibek, Göreme's best and most authentic restaurant. I wish I made a reservation in advance for downstairs (where the seating was traditional Turkish style, on cushions on the floor), but it was fully booked. Instead, I was seated on the rooftop. No matter though, the food and wine were still great. Definitely try a testi kebab (terrible name, but very delicious). It was one of their most popular dishes. I was really sad to leave Cappadocia, I have to say; I was going to miss that rocky wonderland. I was even more depressed though when I arrived at Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV) to find out that we were going to be delayed over two hours. The entire airport was one room (the whole of it is pictured below) and all announcements were in Turkish. Turkish destination number two was Istanbul, an intoxicating mix of east and west. Istanbul was one of only a few transcontinental cities who claim residence on two continents (Europe and Asia in this case). The European part was separated from its Asian part by the mighty Bosphorus. The European side had historical significance as well as the city’s commercial center with banks, stores and corporations and two-third of its population. The Asian side was more relaxed, with wide boulevards, residential neighborhoods and fewer hotels and tourist attractions. I stayed in the touristy district of Sultanahmet because I only had two days and wanted to spend my time exploring the historical landmarks, not transiting around the sprawling city. I highly recommend Hagia Sophia Mansions; it was a dream. The location was super close to all the main attractions, a reasonably short walk to Karaköy and about an hour from the Istanbul Airport (IST), but was reasonably priced with pre-booked transfers (via booking.com). Here (and below) you will find the route I roughly followed on my day of sightseeing. Hagia (pronounced Aya) Sophia Grand Mosque was the first place I ventured to on my Istanbul walking tour. Built 1,500 years ago as an Orthodox Christian cathedral, it is now a mosque and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its doors were open to all visitors, locals, foreigners, Muslims and non-Muslims, every day of the week, from 9am until 5pm (although the day I visited it didn't open until 10am). It did close five times per day though, during prayer times. Entry was free, so don't get scammed by guides offering to jump the line. Visitors had to remove their shoes before stepping onto the mosque's carpet (warning, the whole place smelled of feet). Women were required to wear a head covering (headscarves were available at the entrance, without a fee). Photography was allowed; pictures should not be taken of those praying though. The first floor of the mosque was closed for restoration, which was a bummer in terms of a photo vantage point. On the other side of Sultanahmet Park, facing the Hagia Sophia, was the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, which most people referred to as the Blue Mosque because of the color of its interior tiles. It was built to not only rival Hagia Sophia, but to surpass it. It's the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets. The Blue Mosque was undergoing major renovations when I was there (and until 2024). Only about 20% of it was open, so there wasn't a whole lot to see. It was free to enter. After seeing what I could of the pair of mosques, I headed around the corner to Topkapi Palace, which cost 320 or 420 TL to enter, depending on if you want to visit the Harem or not. It was open 9am-6pm everyday apart from Tuesdays. This palace served as the main residence and administrative headquarters for the Ottoman sultans. It had large collections of porcelain, robes, weapons, Ottoman miniatures, Islamic calligraphic manuscripts as well as other treasures and jewels. It overlooked both the Marmara Sea and the Bosphorus strait at the historical peninsula (Fatih district) of Istanbul. Lunch was necessary by the time the Palace was ticked off the sightseeing list. I went to the colorful Kybele Hotel Cafe and indulged in some delicious typical Turkish fare. Fueled up on meze and wine, I visited the Grand Bazaar. With over 4,000 shops, the Grand Bazaar was one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world. It has been regarded as one of the first shopping malls of the world. Within this market you could find everything from food, clothing and accessories to jewelery, textiles, lanterns, counterfeit luxury goods and tourist junk. It was a good place to practice your negotiating skills. The Basilica Cistern was closed for ongoing restoration work, so that got struck from my explorations and, instead, I headed back to my hotel for a massage, before dinner at Nusr-Et Steakhouse Sandal Bedesteni. The Nusr-Et chain has been globally praised as a unique concept combining an innovative menu (making meat into art) with some theatrics. The menu can be found here (including prices, in Turkish Lira). The owner, Nusret Gökçe (nicknamed Salt Bae), is a Turkish butcher, chef, food entertainer and restaurateur whose techniques for preparing and seasoning meat became an Internet meme back in January 2017. I have to admit that I didn't expect much. I thought dinner would be an over-priced, gimmicky bit of fun, but it was actually really good. Where else can you order gold beef? And, with the exchange rate, it wasn't nearly as expensive as some of Nusret's other locations around the world. The next day was spent on a private yacht, cruising the Bosphorus strait, between Europe and Asia. I kid, that wasn't our boat. This was... The journey started and ended at Karaköy Pier. In between, we followed the European coastline for about an hour and then returned along the Asian side. The Bosphorus was the veritable heart of the city, dotted with magnificent palaces, famous bridges, elaborate Ottoman mansions and spectacular seaside residences from different centuries. Being at sea was also a lovely way to spend a few hours on a sunny Saturday! Since Karaköy was where I disembarked and my dinner was booked nearby, I decided to explore the area after the boat ride. One of the oldest and most historic districts in Istanbul, Karaköy was also home to the Galata Tower as well as a bunch of cool boutiques and art exhibitions. It was a whirl of activity, all noisy and beautiful and colorful and alive. I dined that evening at Aheste (on the 50 Best restaurants list). Its good-value, meze-led menu, informal atmosphere and laid-back service drew a hip crowd. Floors were tiled, walls were exposed bricks and tables were dressed simply with white tablecloths. The menu offered a range of hot and cold sharing plates and although small, the wine list was strong. To end my night, and my time in Türkiye, I went to Le Cuistot Bistro to enjoy some Latin music, dancing and mojitos. Then it was time to Hoşçakal, Türkiye. Until next time! KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: A visa was necessary for American persons. In just three easy steps, my e-visa was issued (for ~$51.50/£43.20). Check here to confirm if you would need a visa, depending on your citizenship. At the time I visited, a COVID online health form still needed to be completed, but nobody ever checked it. In terms of other COVID restrictions, there were none. Masks were not worn anywhere - not on airplanes, nor in taxis/mosques/etc. Turkish Lira was the local currency. When I visited, it was ~20 TRY to £1 GPB, which was huge value for people spending British quid. Always carry cash. Credit cards were widely accepted in major cities, but I heard that many smaller towns and independent shops required payment in cash. Not all American cards were accepted and Wi-Fi was unreliable. You’ll also need to cash money for taxi fares, tips and public bathrooms. The best time to visit Cappadocia was from March - June or September - November, when the crowds were thinner, and the weather was milder. June - August was the peak season and was crowded. It can get bitterly cold during the winter months from November to late February. I paid €180 for the hot-air balloon ride, which I had organized by Sultan Cave Hotel and also came with a free one-way airport transfer. Definitely pre-book your balloon; they filled up months in advance. *Tip: Book your flight for the first day you're there to maximize your chances of getting on a flight, if there are poor weather conditions. Taxis in Turkey were notorious for cheating and scamming. You can call a metered taxi via Uber in Istanbul, if you can get one to pick you up. Drivers have to enter the final meter number into the Uber app, so take a picture of the meter and let them see you taking that picture. In terms of electricity, Turkey followed the 2-pin round sockets in common with most other European countries and standard voltage is 220V. #cappadocia #göreme #nevşehir #anatolia #fatih #karaköy #sultanahmet #istanbul #sultanahmet #turkey #türkiye #turkishdelight #asia #europe #fairychimney #hagiasophia #bluemosque #topkapipalace #grandbazaar #bosphorus #galatatower #galatabridge

  • don't get hanoi'd by my vietnopsis

    Hanoi, the ancient Vietnamese capital and French-colonial city, is known for its cuisine, nightlife, silks and handicrafts. It's a great place to explore on foot, as long as you figure out how to navigate the streets that are surging with scooters. It's not quite as mental as Ho Chi Minh City, but close. Below is my compilation of what you should do and see, as well as some recommendations for where to indulge in food and beverage, if you find yourself in Hanoi. See/Do: *HANOI OLD QUARTER - In this quarter each street used to specialize in one specific type of manufacturing or commerce. Street names were derived from the crafts of each area. Today, most of the crafts have been replaced by attractions, food, tourist services and entertainment. *HANG GAI STREET - Also known as Silk Street, this is one of the streets in the Old Quarter where original craft products still exist. Here you can find high quality, inexpensive silk products. They make great gifts that don't take up too much room in your suitcase. You can also get clothes tailor-made here. *HOAN KIEM LAKE - In the middle of Hanoi's Old Quarter you'll find a lake. Leisurely circle its perimeter, alongside tourists and locals alike. Or simply sit on a bench and observe the Hanoian pace of life. *TRAIN STREET - High-speed locomotives barrel through this residential area, colloquially known as 'Train Street', at various times of the day. The schedule seems to be more of a suggestion/estimation than fixed. Even the sign (below) is made using adjustable tape, rather than permanent text. The government is doing its best to shut down many of its Instagram-famous Train Street cafes, because they have become overrun with selfie-taking tourists. But, some of them are still in operation (like Xóm Tàu Cafe). We arrived at Train Street just before 2:30pm, and had just enough time for a beer before the sidewalks were cleared and everyone was instructed to stand pressed up against the buildings. And then the train came, tooting its horn and flying by just inches away. After the train passed, the tiny chairs and tables were set up again, in a flash, and normal life resumed as if nothing had happened. Our cafe employees had put our bottle caps on the tracks, before the train came along, and then gave us the flattened caps as a keepsake. *HALONG BAY/BAI TU LONG BAY - Dotted with jagged limestone islands, surrounded by emerald sea, Halong Bay is one of Vietnam's biggest attractions (and also a World Heritage Site). About ten million people visit each year. Sadly, as a result, it's become littered, polluted and overpopulated. In an effort to curb some of the litter and pollution, strict single-use plastic regulations have been put in place by the government. But the overcrowding has not been addressed. My friends and I decided to visit Bai Tu Long Bay, Halong Bay's lesser known relative, instead. Bai Tu Long Bay is far less congested and the waters are cleaner. Bai Tu Long Bay is a less touristy, quieter alternative (for now). We selected a Swan Cruise two-night/three-day option, which we found to be the right amount of time to relax and soak up the beauty of the atmosphere. There were 16 cabins on-board. We correctly anticipated that the rooms would be small/not have a great amount of storage, so we left most of our luggage with the hotel back in Hanoi and just took what we absolutely needed. Transportation (about four-hours) was included, between Hanoi and the cruise ship, in the price. There was no WiFi on the ship and service was spotty. All meals were included (and were abundant and delicious), but booze incurred additional costs. When I went, in October, it was mostly blue skies (one foggy day), moderate temperatures, calm seas and no bugs. Most of the first day was spent in transit. Once we finally arrived, we had an opportunity to kayak and swim a bit, before returning to the boat for sunset. Day two was spent kayaking some more, exploring caves and going on a rowing boat tour of Vung Vieng fishing village, where we also learned how pearls are grown. On the last day, I got up early to watch the sunrise (~5:20am at the time of year when I visited). I was alone and content in my solitude. It was so peaceful and beautiful. After breakfast, we visited a cave and a pretty beach and then had a cooking demonstration and lunch before being transported back to Hanoi. Eat/Drink: *CAPTAIN SKYBAR - Go to this rooftop for a fun vibe, snacks, drinks and live music! *LUC THUY RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE - We stopped here on our walk around Lake Hoan Kiem. The view of the lake from the restaurant terrace is great and it's a nice spot to rest your feet and have a drink/bite. *PHO MAU - This little gem, in the Old Quarter, has truly amazing pho and spring rolls. *GREEN TANGERINE - Sadly, I had to give this dinner a miss, because I was suffering from an unwell tummy, but I am told that it's great. *POLITE & CO - This cozy and dark speakeasy has a 1920's gentleman's club vibe. It feels like the sort of place you'd bring your mistress, to indulge in craft cocktails and whisky. *PIZZA 4P'S - If it's the last night of your 16-day trip and you're just a tad sick of Asian food, head to this Italian option for delicious pizza and pasta. Be sure to make a reservation in advance. Known Before You Go: A visa is required for US Citizens. I suggest applying for an eVisa in advance. My UK Vodafone worldwide corporate plan covered my mobile for £5/day. It was far less hot in Hanoi then previous destinations on this trip. Wifi is available everywhere, apart from on the Swan Cruises boat. Use Grab for taxi's (set it up in advance, in your home country). Be safe on the roads! Crossing the streets in Saigon is worse, but it's still harrowing in Hanoi. Follow the locals and do as they do. Don't drink the tap water in Vietnam. Strictly bottled water only. Vietnamese Dong comes in denominations ranging from 200 to 500,000. ATMs are widely available and credit cards are accepted at larger hotels, restaurants and travel agencies. US Dollars are also widely accepted. Violent crime is rare in Vietnam, but snatch-and-grabs/pick-pocketing does happen, so be vigilant. #hanoi #vietnam #northvietnam #halongbay #baitulongbay #trainstreet #asia #southeastasia #redriver #grab

  • lanzarote is ace

    *Apologies for the punny title (ACE is the code for Lanzarote airport). Lanzarote is one of the eight main Canary Islands, located off the north coast of Africa, in Spain. It's a land where tourism, art and nature are combined. With gorge-worthy cuisine, dreamy volcanic backdrops and year-round sunshine, it’s no surprise as many as 12 million tourists visit every year. Full disclosure, at the end of another long year, I stayed an incredible 5* hotel (which I HIGHLY recommend), and spent the majority of my trip in extreme relaxation mode. I didn't do nearly as much adventuring as I typically do, but below are my top five recommendations for things to do/places to eat. 1. Take A Day Trip to Fuerteventura The ferry takes 25-minutes and costs between €29 and €34. You will leave out of Playa Blanca, Lanzarote and arrive into Corralejo, Fuerteventura. I suggest arranging this tour (or something similar). The first stop is Lobos Island, where you'll have four hours to wander, hike, climb, snorkel, swim, sunbathe and/or eat. The little restaurant on the island doesn't look like much but is surprisingly delicious! Next, you'll be taken to feed chipmunks. I wasn't particularly keen on this part of the trip initially, but it ended up being really cute and fun. From there, it's onward to the highlight of the tour - Popcorn Beach. This beach is unlike any others I've ever seen. Instead of sand, it's made up of calcareous algae that looks like fluffy popcorn. The final stop of the day is the Sand Dunes of Correlejo. The dunes here are not blown over from the Sahara, but are, in fact, composed of the shells of marine creatures. 2. Visit Jameos del Aqua This underground complex is the masterwork of local artist and architect César Manrique. It features a concert hall, restaurant and salt lake, within a series of natural volcanic tunnels and lava caves formed by the eruption of the La Corona volcano some 4,000 years ago. I'd recommend either driving or booking a return taxi in advance, so you don't find yourself stuck in the middle of nowhere. 3. Visit Timanfaya National Park (AKA the Fire Mountains) & Volcanic Vineyards This national park is the result of volcanic eruptions that took place between 1730 and 1736 and then later in 1824. It's extraordinarily beautiful, with otherworldly and eerie landscapes. It's open year-round and costs €12 for entry. As the national park is protected, the only way to see it is by organized and guided tours. Stay after the tour for some geothermal demonstrations and to have lunch at El Diablo (another of César Manrique's creations), where the heat from the volcano is used to cook your meat. Not too far from the Fire Mountains you'll find wine country. As Lanzarote is a volcanic island, it has almost no soil nor natural vegetation. In order to grow grapevines here, winemakers have to separate vines into individual craters. The volcanic soil of the island gives the wine a unique and delicious taste - a must try! 4. Eat at Kentia Gourmet Kitchen This magical restaurant in Puerto del Carmen is not only Instagrammable, but also delicious! It's not be missed if you're in the area. 5. Eat at Kaori I didn't have to travel far to get to this Asian restaurant, as it was in my hotel. I opted for the tasting menu and it was a gastronomic delight! Visiting Lanzarote is like leaving Earth, with its volcanic/lunar landscapes, Mars-like sands and its delicious wine/seafood. There are countless reasons to visit this Canary Island not listed here, but don't take my word for it - go see for yourself! #lanzarote #fuerteventura #canaryislands #spain #europe #hotelfariones #excursioncenter #playablanca #corralejo #lobosisland #isladelobos #chipmunks #popcornbeach #correlajosanddunes #jameosdelaqua #timanfayanationalpark #firemountains #kentiagourmetclub #kaori

  • 2021 travels

    Season 2 of '2020' picked up exactly where the first series ended...In lockdown, with soaring (no-longer-so-novel) coronavirus infections, hospitalizations and deaths. Global virus cases were in the range of 87 million, with just shy of 1.9 million worldwide deaths. BUT, the race was on! There were vaccines in one lane and the virus in the other (which had picked up some speed because of the ways it had mutated). Spectators from all over the world tuned in, from their home offices and living rooms, to watch this rollercoaster of an event, and to see just how long it would take for the vaccinations to triumph. JANUARY I was desperate to dust off my green shoes and return to globetrotting, but reluctant to book anything until the confusion and uncertainty around new restrictions, travel corridors, fluctuating borders, isolations, paperwork, tests, vaccinations and quarantine hotels subsided. So I stayed home as much as humanly possible, wore a mask when I did venture out, scrolled Kayak, dreamt of distant lands and waited (not so patiently), with my sleeve rolled up, for my inoculations. I had never looked forward to a sore arm and potential side effects so much! Alert Level 5, Week 1 (3rd January): Monday was both my first day back at work, after the long holiday break, and the day that all of England went into Alert Level 5 (national lockdown 3.0). On the vaccine front, the first person in the world (who happened to be in the UK) got the Oxford/AstraZeneca jab, Buckingham Palace confirmed that the Queen (94) had received her first COVID-19 shot and Moderna (the third vaccine in the UK) was approved by the UK medicines regulator, which was yet another weapon in the arsenal to win the competition against COVID. Meanwhile, across the pond, fervent Trump supporters stormed the US Capitol and Jake Angeli got his 15-minutes of fame, as the (painted) face of the siege. After the blood and broken glass was cleaned up, Congress reconvened to certify Biden's victory, allowing us all to watch Donald lose the 2020 Presidential election for the 112th time. In an effort to stop Trump from inciting any further violence via online rhetoric, he was unceremoniously banned from all social media platforms, indefinitely. Alert Level 5, Week 2 (10th January): Evidence of a negative COVID test result became a requirement for all people entering the UK by plane, train or ferry. Hospitals in London were nearly at capacity and NHS staff were stretched to the max, putting COVID as the frontrunner in the relay. But, competition was heating up as seven mass vaccination centers began administering shots, 12-hours per day. The goal was to jab our way out of lockdown by vaccinating 13.9 million of the population's most vulnerable by mid-February. All other adults in England were intended to be offered their first injection by autumn. For the second time, in his one-term presidency, Mr. Trump was impeached, for inciting insurrection against the very country and Constitution he took an oath to defend. Alert Level 5, Week 3 (17th January): On 20th January, my nephew turned seven, I celebrated my ten-year work anniversary, Trump was dethroned (after he doled out 143 pardons), Kamala Harris was sworn in as the USA’s first female Vice President and Joe Biden took office as the 46th US President! In preparation for its new residents, 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue was fumigated and Trump's on-demand Diet Coke button was removed from the Oval Office. Whether Biden's Peloton would be permitted to enter the White House became a hot topic. In the absence of Trump's Tweets, the internet, instead, celebrated Senator Bernie Sanders' patchwork mittens and commitment to social distancing, with a barrage of memes. Alert Level 5, Week 4 (24th January): Major hedge funds bet billions of dollars that GameStop's shares would fall. Playing Wall Street at its own game, amateur investors, who swapped tips on social media, catapulted the share price by more than 700%. The UK became the first European country to officially record more than 100,000 coronavirus deaths and the fifth nation in the world to hit that six figure mark (following in USA, Brazil, India and Mexico's footsteps). FEBRUARY After 365 days of January, it was nice to move on to a new month! Alert Level 5, Week 5 (31st January): The UK surpassed the 10 million administered injections milestone. 40 million vials of (not-yet-approved) Valneva, were purchased, bringing the UK's various vaccine doses total to 407m (more than enough for the ~52m adult population). For all its failures and misjudgements in controlling the spread of the virus, testing and tracing, preventing deaths and protecting the economy, the British government was doing a bang up job with its vaccine program, especially in comparison to its EU neighbors. Flags flew at half-mast in honor of Captain Sir Tom Moore, who passed away at 100-years-old, after a battle with coronavirus. Jeff Bezos, founder of Amazon, and one of the world's richest men, coincidentally stepped down from his CEO position at the same time as the US Federal trade Commission announced it would fine his company $61.7m. Pennsylvania's most famous groundhog emerged from his burrow and saw his shadow, indicating six more weeks of winter. Groundhog Day served as another reminder, to all of us living in Britain, just how suffocating and oppressively familiar lockdown had become. Alert Level 5, Week 6 (7th February): Super Bowl LV had the smallest attendance in its 55-year history - just shy of 25,000 spectators. 7,500 of them were healthcare workers (having already received both doses of the vaccine), whom the NFL gifted tickets, to thank them for their work on the frontlines. The second impeachment trial against former President Donald Trump began in the Senate on 9th Feb, almost exactly a year after his first. Alert Level 5, Week 7 (14th February): After only five days of debates, Donald Trump was acquitted in impeachment trial #2. In the UK, it took ten weeks to get the first dose of the COVID-19 vaccination injected into more than 15.5 million people's arms. The success of the UK’s vaccination programme was starting to be felt, with decreasing numbers of deaths among the country’s oldest and most vulnerable. In an attempt to minimize foreign coronavirus variants from entering England, tighter (more confusing and expensive) border controls were put into place. All international arrivals were already required to complete a passenger locator form (48-hours pre-flight), produce a negative COVID test (3-days pre-flight) and self-isolate for 10 days upon arrival. But, as of 15th February, negative tests on days two and eight of quarantine, were also introduced. If any tests came back positive, isolation had to continue for an additional 10 days. Only UK nationals and residents were permitted to arrive from any of the 'red listed' countries. Travelers arriving from these high-risk countries had to quarantine in government designated hotels (arrangements to be made in advance), at a cost of £1,750 per passenger. The punishments that were implemented for people who were not truthful and/or did not comply with these new rules ranged from hefty fines to a 10-years prison sentence. Below is a flowchart, for clarity. Alert Level 5, Week 8 (21st February): Yet another weekend passed, in an endless loop spent on the sofa, mainlining cheese, wine and Netflix, whilst daydreaming of a time with no more sanitizing, distancing nor COVID worries. There was some hope though, as Boris Johnson announced a four-step roadmap out of lockdown, aiming to have the country fully unlocked by 21st June (the 60-plus page document has been visually summed up quite succinctly for you in the graph below). Over 20 million people in the UK were starting to receive protection from this dreadful disease (~38% of the adult population), including my boyfriend who got injected with his first shot of AstraZeneca! Data revealed that the odds were shifting in the vaccine's favor as UK hospitalizations and infections decreased by more than three quarters. MARCH As we entered March, winter, which had felt like it would never end, seemed to have finally loosened its grip a little. Cherry blossoms started to bloom, days were lighter for longer, temperatures increased slightly, and we even saw a bit of sunshine. Alert Level 5, Week 9 (28th February): Mystery flights were launched in Australia, which demonstrated just how desperate travellers were to hit the friendly skies again. Portugal, Greece and Cyprus announced that they'd welcome vaccinated British holidaymakers into their countries this summer. Worldwide COVID cases were at 118 million, with 2.62 million deaths. A 33-year-old woman, Sarah Everard, disappeared in London whilst walking home. About a week later she was found dead. This case sent shockwaves across the UK as a police officer was charged with her kidnapping and murder. The incident also spurred a national conversation about violence against women. Alert Level 5, Week 10 (7th March): The highly-anticipated Oprah with Meghan and Harry: A CBS Primetime Special broadcasted this week with lots of drama dished up. Step 1A of the great British unlocking went into effect - Two people were permitted to sit together outdoors (for a drink or picnic) and kids returned to school (in-person). Foreign travel from the UK was already banned, apart from in exceptional cases, but beginning this week, international travellers departing from England were required to complete a form, declaring the reason they needed to travel abroad, or risk a £200 fine. Alert Level 5, Week 11 (14th March): No one knew how the pandemic would unfurl exactly and few, if any, back in March 2020, believed that the world would still be in and out of lockdowns a year on, but here we were. I decided to commemorate my quarantinaversary by re-reading my 2020 quarantine chronicles post. In March 2020, I had noted that 'downloads for apps like Houseparty and Zoom spiked as people virtually connected with friends/family members and work video chats soared in volume.' One year later, it seemed to me that nobody really wanted to talk anymore. Messages seemed briefer and personal Zoom chats were perpetually on hold. As a caged society, we had nothing left to chat about and were tired of saying 'I miss you' and 'I can't wait for this to end'. On Saturday, 20th March a record-breaking amount of vaccine doses were administered in the UK, with 844,285 arms injected, including Boris Johnson's. Alert Level 5, Week 12 (21st March): Almost 450 million doses of various coronavirus vaccines had been dispensed, in more than 135 countries worldwide. Over 30 million of those were in Britain (more than half the UK's adult population). After a week of the European Union threatening to block exports of the Oxford/AstraZeneca jab to the UK because current supply arrangements were slowing down its own vaccine rollout, the EU and UK issued a joint statement in which both sides pledged to play nice. In a creative attempt to service those passengers missing travel, whilst recouping revenue from lack of airline travel, British Airways started offering the opportunity to 'enjoy' airplane food from the comfort of one's own home. Alert Level 5, Week 13 (28th March): On 29th March step 1B of the UK lockdown ease was enacted. The government message shifted from 'Stay Home' to 'Stay Local'. Outdoor meet-ups (within the 'rule of six') resumed and outdoor sports facilities reopened. The night of 29th March, I received a text message from my GP indicating that I was due for my COVID vaccinations. I called my doctor's office the next morning and was able to book my first and second jabs for 12th April and 21st June, respectively. 30th March was the warmest March day on record in the UK in 53 years, which seemed to raise everyone's spirits. APRIL So far, the UK was still on track to open the economy and society per the roadmap laid out in February, but an anticipated reduction in vaccination supply this month threatened to potentially set things back. However, the UK government remained confident that all adults would still be offered their first jab by autumn. Alert Level 5, Week 14 (4th April): The UK began the rollout of its third coronavirus vaccine, Moderna, which was intended to be administered to those under the age of 30, amid increasing theoretical reports of links between AstraZeneca and blood clots in young adults. England began trialling ethically controversial COVID passports. Divisiveness and discrimination aside, if the vaccine passport scheme turned out anything like the widely-criticized test and trace system, by the time it was finally introduced, it would be pointless and disastrous waste of time and money. Everyone in England, from 9th April, was given access to two rapid coronavirus tests per week, to help stop outbreaks as lockdown began to lift. The Queen's beloved husband, Prince Philip, died at 99 years old. Lockdown Ease, Week 1 (11th April): 12th April was my happiest 2021 Monday to date! Not only was it the day I got my first dose of AstraZeneca and a haircut (after 9 months); it was also stage two of the UK lockdown lift, moving us another step closer to some level of normality. Snow showers and freezing cold temperatures did little to dampen enthusiasm for al fresco pints, nor early-morning queuing for reopened shops and salons. Life without bars had felt like life behind bars. Although domestically things were opening, internationally, things were tightening. As the 3rd wave of the virus was making its mark on the rest of Europe, a £5,000 penalty came into force as part of the new coronavirus laws, for anyone attempting to leave the UK to take a holiday. Lockdown Ease, Week 2 (18th April): At the start of the week, over 33 million UK residents had received their first dose of the COVID-19 vaccine (~64% of the adult population) and more than 19% of English adults were fully vaccinated. After weeks of waiting for the trial to unfold and the final 10 hours of jury deliberations, former Minneapolis police officer Derek Chauvin was convicted of all charges in the murder of George Floyd. This monumental verdict served as a significant first step in the fight against racial police brutality in the US. Lockdown Ease, Week 3 (25th April): An estimated 91.5% of people aged 45+ in England had received their first dose of COVID-19 vaccine. The UK government had secured another 60 million doses of the Pfizer vaccine, to use as booster jabs, to protect the country's progress in the colder months. In the UK, the vaccine was making real strides in its race against COVID. MAY I craved an escape but was still too hesitant to book anything abroad. Luckily, some London venues had created urban oases that felt like you'd been transported to a tropical/foreign land. Lockdown Ease, Week 4 (2nd May): According to the Office for National Statistics, fewer than one in 1,000 people in the UK had coronavirus (0.09% of the population). It was announced that beginning 17th May, the ban on leisure travel would be lifted and replaced with a traffic light system, with countries rated green, amber or red, based on their number of COVID cases and the success of their vaccine rollout. England revealed the 12 countries on its initial 'green list' (which would be reviewed every three weeks). Just because a country was on the UK's green list though, did not mean that travel authorization was reciprocated, and in most cases it wasn't. Lockdown Ease, Week 5 (9th May): England reported zero new coronavirus deaths for the first time in 14 months! The COVID variant causing the current deadly surge in India was elevated from a 'variant of interest' to a 'variant of global concern' by the World Health Organization. It had only been one month since we were all allowed out again and people already seemed to be suffering from social exhaustion. After such a long period of lockdown, we had become unaccustomed to our calendars being filled up with brunches, meals out, pub gardens, shopping and socializing. Lockdown Ease, Week 6 (16th May): This week, we entered the penultimate lap of the race against COVID (AKA stage three in the relaxation of lockdown restrictions). Social contact rules were reduced further, and indoor hospitality resumed for the first time since December 2020. International leisure travel also became legal again, but UK border force was deeply concerned about being able to cope with large quantities of travellers and all the additional COVID checks that had been implemented. Passengers were warned that they might have to endure airport queues and wait times longer than normal. Lockdown Ease, Week 7 (23rd May): I was one of the millions of people who took a walk down memory lane with the cast from 'Friends: The Reunion'. British regulators authorized the use of the single-dose vaccine from Johnson & Johnson, which brought the number of vaccines in the UK's armory to four. The spread of the Indian COVID variant caused concerns around whether or not the final milestone in England's roadmap for ending lockdown, when all legal limits on social contact were due to be lifted, would move forward. JUNE Halfway through the year, global coronavirus cases had passed the 171 million mark, nearly double from where we were at the beginning of the year. There were an additional 1.7 million deaths as well, now totalling 3.6 million across the globe. It was apparent that nobody would really be protected from this virus until everyone was. Also, I had only taken (an unprecedented) one day off work in first six months of 2021. Lockdown Ease, Week 8 (30th May): The first review of the UK's traffic light system for traveling abroad took place this week. No new countries were added to the green list, Portugal (the only mainstream holiday quarantine-free country) was downgraded to amber and seven new countries were made red. Only two destinations remained on the green list that could be visited from the UK, without quarantining on either end: Gibraltar and Iceland (although the latter required that visitors provided proof they had received their second vaccination at least two weeks prior). Lockdown Ease, Week 9 (6th June): The week started off by the sea, in Hastings, UK, with three girlfriends. We had amazing weather and whole lot of serious belly laughs! Lockdown Ease, Week 10 (13th June): As speculated, concerns around the spread of the Delta variant (first identified in India, then dominant in the UK), led to a delay in ending lockdown restrictions (initially planned for 21st June). The government didn't want to squander all the progress it made in tackling the virus, so 'Freedom Day' was delayed. In an effort to outpace the Delta strain, all over-18's became eligible for their first vaccination. I knew there was pressure from the airlines to get transatlantic routes re-opened, and, following Boris Johnson and Joe Biden's meeting at the G7 summit, I took a risk and booked a flight back to the US in August/September. I felt confident that the restrictions would be eased and I wanted to secure my flight before prices massively inflated. Lockdown Ease, Week 11 (20th June): I'M INVINCIBLE! Okay, maybe not, but 70 days after my first, I was injected with my second dose of AstraZeneca. I was now immunized against Measles, Mumps, Rubella, Tetanus, Diphtheria, Pertussis, Influenza, Human Papillomavirus, Hepatitis A, Yellow Fever, Typhoid and COVID. The UK's second traffic light review took place this week, adding Malta, Madeira, the Balearic Islands and a swathe of Caribbean islands to the quarantine-free travel register (although most that were added remained inaccessible to people in Britain). A 'green watchlist' was also introduced, to keep a close eye on green countries at risk of being relegated to amber. Adults in England were being urged to 'grab a jab' at hundreds of walk-in vaccination centers and pop-up clinics this weekend, without appointments. With more than 63 million jabs already delivered by the NHS, we were in the final stretch to the finish line. Lockdown Ease, Week 12 (27th June): Britain's health minister, Matt Hancock resigned over a breach of coronavirus distancing restrictions that he himself had implemented, after photos and a video emerged of him kissing an aide in his office. My weekend was spent in Lake District, UK. Although it was mostly gloomy and soggy, it was a beautiful and peaceful place. Highlights included having a reason to dust off my tiny green shoes, the Lake Windermere boat cruise and dinner at Holbeck Ghyll! JULY July brought with it the hope that the success of the vaccine program would lead to the end of COVID restrictions. To date, 86% of UK adults had received their first injection and 64% were fully vaccinated. Data from Public Health England showed that two doses of the vaccines offered 79% protection against becoming ill from the Delta variant and reduced the likelihood of needing hospitalization by 96%. Despite this incredible achievement, the UK continued to fall behind the US and the EU with its cautious approach towards international travel. Lockdown Ease, Week 13 (4th July): Two weeks after my second jab, I had built up the maximum possible protection against COVID and therefore had earned my NHS COVID Pass. I got to put the Pass to use immediately, at Wimbledon. It wasn't at full capacity the day I went, but being in a crowd felt both weird and familiar, at the same time. In a baffling move, the Kremlin ruled that only sparkling wine produced in Russia could be sold as 'Champagne'. French suppliers were taken aback by a new law, approved by President Putin, that meant French fizz would now have to be sold as 'sparkling wine'. British Airways and Virgin Atlantic started trialling fast-track lanes at Heathrow airport, for fully-vaccinated arrivals, on certain flight patterns. At the weekend, to get away for a few days, I ventured to Tenby, an adorable and colorful Welsh seaside town, with the friendliest people! Lockdown Ease, Week 14 (11th July): More than 60,000 fans attended Wembley Stadium on Sunday night, to watch Italy defeat England, in penalties, at the Euro 2020 final. This was the first major final the England men’s team had reached since their World Cup triumph in 1966. Although football wasn't coming home, there was a good chance COVID was. A leading virus modeler predicted that the semi-final and final of the Euros would lead to an extra million cases of COVID-19 in the UK. FREEDOM WEEK (18th July): After 2021's fourteen weeks of full lockdown, and a subsequent fourteen weeks of lockdown easing, all coronavirus restrictions were lifted on Monday 19th July, despite surging COVID cases. Legal limits on social contact were removed and all final sectors of the economy were reopened. Also, citizens/residents fully vaxxed under the UK vaccination program, returning from an 'amber' country, were no longer required to quarantine for 10-days. The term 'pingdemic' was coined as a record number of people (over 615,000 in England and Wales) were 'pinged' by the NHS app and instructed to self-isolate after coming into contact with a positive coronavirus case. Meanwhile, Israel was the first country offering at-risk individuals a third COVID booster shot. On July 23rd, the Tokyo 2020 Olympics went ahead, despite widespread public opposition and spiking cases in Japan. The opening ceremony was devoid of fans and low on athletes. Sponsors distanced themselves from the games. I re-treated myself to the gift of sight, nearly 15-years later, with LASEK eye surgery. People seemed awash with conflicting feelings as they grappled with the swings and mixed signals of threats, shifting public health policies and uncertain social behaviors. It turned out that emerging from a pandemic wasn't as easy as we all hoped. AUGUST The business of global travel had become a tangled mess that needed unravelling. International restrictions were ever-changing and there were significant differences between countries on what vaccines were validated, how to provide proof of vaccination, what forms needed to be completed and the rules around testing and quarantining, which caused tremendous confusion. A common approach, with standardized rules for vaccine authorization, COVID travel passes and testing regimes, was desperately called for. I hadn't travelled, by air, in 330 days, so I had a lot of uncertainty around vaccines, testing requirements and necessary forms/documents. This handy dandy tool proved useful though. In preparation for my trip, I booked a 'fit to fly' (£135) test, two-days prior to my flight. The results were emailed to me the next day. I ordered a rapid antigen self-test kit (£29) to take with me to the US, to be used as a pre-departure test, three-days prior to coming back to the UK. I also ordered a day-2 PCR test (£49), to take after I returned to London. After all the admin and expenditure, I headed off to San Diego for a week filled with relaxation, catching up with friends and eating all my favorite SoCal foods. I desperately needed a recharge as I hadn't taken a full week's vacation in eighteen months. SEPTEMBER My three-week USA tour continued into early September, as I moved east from Southern California to Newington, Connecticut and then north, to Boston, Massachusetts. As of 19th July 2021, fully dosed Britons/UK residents returning from amber list countries needed the following to return to England: A negative pre-departure COVID test (three-days prior to flying) Proof of full vaccination (at least 14-days after second dose) A completed passenger locator form (to be submitted no more than 48-hours before arriving into the UK). This form required a code to be included for a day-2 test (which needed to be ordered in advance) Since the US was still on the UK's amber list, I took my rapid antigen self-test three-days before flying and electronically received a negative lab result, within a few hours. I already had my unique identification number, via email, for my Day 2 PCR test, so I could complete my PLF (Passenger Locator Form). I uploaded the QR code for my negative test result, proof of vaccinations and confirmation of my passenger locator form into to my VeriFLY app. After about an hour, VeriFly approved my checklist of items and I was good to go. That VeriFly confirmation was all that was needed to check-in at Boston Logan International Airport. On the 20th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks, two unseeded women, both born after 11th September 2001, faced off in the US Open grand-slam final. Britain, and the world, had a new sporting superstar in Emma Raducanu. At the end of the month, I flew to Corfu, Greece for a week-long get-away with three girlfriends, inclusive of a day-trip to Albania, for good measure. OCTOBER COVID-19 border rules in England changed on 4th October, to create a 'new, clearer travel system'. The traffic light system was replaced with a single red list and simplified travel measures were streamlined for those of us who completed our full vaccination cycle. A pre-departure test to re-enter the UK also became no longer necessary for doubled-dosed persons. Further changes took place on 24th October, allowing a private lateral flow test to be taken on/before day 2, rather than a more expensive PCR test. The petrol crisis in the UK, was not actually a shortage of fuel so much as a lack of drivers to deliver it. In the wake of Brexit, and as a result of the coronavirus pandemic, supply-chains were disrupted for a range of products, including poultry, soft drinks, beer, medicines, milk, fuel and pork. Facebook suffered a global outage, rendering all services (including Instagram and WhatsApp) unusable for nearly six hours. The social network blamed a faulty internal configuration issue. It had been two years since I suffered from a common head cold. All the eating outdoors, hand washing and being germ conscious turned out to be a perk. I spent five days in Sicily's second largest city, Catania, exploring volcanoes and gorges, eating all the pasta, drinking all the prosecco and catching a few rays of sunshine! NOVEMBER I was lucky enough to be able to make it back to the US for my favorite holiday of the year - Thanksgiving! I flew into Philadelphia the weekend prior, then took the train to Connecticut and finally ended up in Boston, MA, all in 12 days. It was wonderful to have so much family time and to catch up with friends I hadn't seen in several years! DECEMBER I landed back in London, from Boston, at 6am on my 41st birthday! I went straight out to Bristol, UK for a celebratory birthday weekend, after a quick stop at a COVID testing center, for a rapid PCR test (the Omicron variant had emerged whilst I was in the US and the UK's COVID travel rules had changed yet again). The next few weeks were spent endlessly eating and drinking, for my birthday and other festive gatherings. London had never looked more glorious, with all its halls decked out with boughs of holly (and lights and decorations). In addition to old travel restrictions being re-imposed, in an attempt to combat the Omicron variant, other guidelines around working safely and face coverings were also put in place. Mounting public fury over the rules consistently being disobeyed by those making them meant that people were hesitant to abide though. On Boxing Day, I flew to Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands, Spain. The highlight of this island was by far Popcorn Beach, where the 'sand' was actually small white, algae fossils that looked like puffy popcorn! From Fuerteventura, I ferried over to Lanzarote to ring in the New Year. I also go to check out some volcanoes whilst I was there, and dine in a volcanic tube, which was pretty cool. The year ended with global cases in the ballpark of 293 million (up 206 million from the start of 2021), and just shy of 5.4 million worldwide deaths (up 3.5 million). This year may not have brought an immediate end to the coronavirus pandemic, but it brought a renewed sense of hope and taught us that nothing is ever certain. Hoperfully year three of COVID will be our best one yet, filled with memorable adventures, big and small! STATS FROM MY 2021 TRAVELS: Trips: 10 (23 in 2019; 8 in 2020) Air Miles Flown: 25,405 (83,789 in 2019; 25,269 in 2020) Airline Segments Flown: 12 (48 in 2019; 18 in 2020) Airlines Flown: 4 (14 in 2019; 5 in 2020) Amount of Time Spent in the Air: 55 hours (183 hours in 2019; 57 hours in 2020) Total Countries Visited: 6 (17 in 2019; 6 in 2020) New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 1 (9 in 2019; 0 in 2020) Continents Visited: 2 (North America & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hotel/Airbnb: 25 (67 in 2019; 35 in 2020) Travel COVID Tests Taken: 10 #europe #london #uk #unitedkingdom #england #brexit #coronavirus #covid19 #pandemic #stayathome #socialdistancing #flattenthecurve #covidiots #superspreaders #shelterinplace #herdimmunity #coronacoaster #vaccine #jab #innoculation #moderna #astrazeneca #pfizer #biontech #johnsonandjohnson #novavax #valneva #glaxosmithkline #janssen #impeachment #presidentbiden #vicepresidentkamalaharris #hastings #lakedistrict #lakewindermere #tenby #wales #sandiego #socal #california #usa #unitedstatesofamerica #newington #connecticut #boston #massachusetts #corfu #greece #paxos #anitpaxos #saranda #albania #sicily #catania #italy #mountetna #spain #canaryislands #fuerteventura #popcornbeach #lanzarote

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