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  • luang prabang was anything but laos-y

    Laos is a country with a magnificent natural, religious, cultural and historical legacy. Although it is no longer a constitutional monarchy, Luang Prabang remains the jewel in the Laos crown. This ancient city was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1995, and is a perfect illustration of its country's rich heritage. Getting to Luang Prabang, from Bangkok, Hanoi, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur is quite easy now-a-days, but arriving from Hong Kong, takes a bit more patience. My journey involved a four-hour layover in Hanoi (where there is absolutely nothing to do), book-ended by one and half hour flights. By the time we finally arrived in LP we were knackered, so we just had some wine and went to bed. The next four days were spent mixing exploration with relaxation, whilst indulging in good eats and drinks. See below for all of my recommendations. Stay/See/Do: *STAY AT THE BELMOND - If you can, I highly recommend it! The hotel is beautiful, service is impeccable, the food is a gastronomic delight and the wine is delicious! Also, the pool is an necessary oasis, given Luang Prabang's year-round high temperatures and humidity. *MOUNT PHOUSI (AKA MOUNT PHU SI) - This sacred hill is right in the middle of Luang Prabang town, with Wat Chom Si temple at its summit. Unfortunately, there is no way around it, you're going to have to climb about 300+ steps if you want to get to the top. It's a very popular tourist spot at sunset, but it gets insanely overcrowded, so we battled the mid-day scorching heat, to avoid the masses. About midway up, you'll have to pay 20,000 KIP, in cash (~£2). Once you make it to the top and stop sweating, be sure to take in the stunning panorama of Luang Prabang and the tranquil valley in which it sits. You'll also pass golden Buddha statues (the Happy Buddha, with its big, round belly is pictured below) Keeping in mind that this hill is sacred, be sure to dress appropriately (despite the heat) and behave in a respectful manner. *STROLL AROUND LUANG PRABANG TOWN - Although the town center is quite small and consists of only four main roads, there is a lot there to keep you occupied. Visit the former royal palace square (which consists of the National Museum, the theater and Temple Haw Pha Bang). There are also many lovely cafes to pop in and shops to peruse. *SA SA SUNSET CRUISE - This slow-boat cruise sets sail down the Mekong River everyday around 4:30pm, and returns two-hours later. It'll set you back 95,000 KIP (which includes a mojito). Our voyage started out serene and calm, but the sky turned dark and it became apparent, quite quickly, that we were about to enter the eye of a storm. First we had lightning, then came the thunder and finally the torrential rain. Despite getting soaked to the bone, we had a great time. *KUANG SI FALLS & BEAR SANCTUARY - These stunning waterfalls might just be the highlight of your Laos trip! Some basics: The falls are about a 45-minute drive from LP. They are open everyday from 8am until 5:30pm. It costs 20,000 KIP to enter (have cash). You'll want to go early to avoid the busloads of tourists who arrive around noon. Bring a swimsuit and towel, if you can/want to swim, as well as a dry bag and a change of clothing. I recommend wearing sturdier shoes than flip flops (although I didn't) and insect repellent. The best time of year to go is December through April/May, when monsoon season has ended and the pools are calm and a lovely turquoise color. From July to October (when I went), heavy rains can transform the otherwise picturesque teal water into a muddy brown and swimming can become impossible. After paying your entrance fee, you'll pass the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Center, on the way to the falls. It's operated by Free the Bears and is home to more than 20 rescued black bears. As you continue walking, you'll see the first set of falls and tiered pools. You'll start to feel dazzled, but stay the course, things keep getting better... Walk further and the things continue to get more impressive. You'll think you've gotten to the main falls around this point in time, but you'll be wrong... After a few more moments of walking, you'll come to the grandest falls of them all! Stand on the wooden bridge for unobstructed views of the cascading waterfalls. Now is not the time to stop though. Persevere! There are two ways up to the top of the falls - to the left or to the right. We climbed up to the right and it was VERY steep, and also slippery from the thunderstorm the previous night. To the left, however, there are steps, which make things more navigable, despite heavy water flowing over them at points. I suggest going both up and down on the left side. Since many people don't bother hiking all the way up, the top of the falls is very peaceful. There's a rope swing up there, and a small picnic area for relaxing. You can also take a dip if you want to cool off from the hike. *FESTIVAL OF FIRE BOATS - It was serendipitous that we were in Luang Prabang on the 14th October, which happened to be the day of the 2019 Festival of Fire Boats. This event only happens once a year (dates vary) and it signifies the end of Buddhist lent. During this festival, each family in Luang Prabang make a large boat out of bamboo and banana trunks, colorfully decorated with bright colors, candles and money. There are more than 20,000 boats. They parade their boats along the main street before setting them afloat down the river, wishing good luck for the future and paying respect to the spirit of the waters. Eat/Drink: *MANDA DE LAOS - This Laotian restaurant was incredible! I was initially drawn to it for its magical and unique scenery, overlooking the UNESCO classified lily pond, but ended up going back three times because it was so delisious. *CHEZ MATT - Head here for a cheese plate and some French wines. I'm not sure if the card machines were down when I went or if it's always cash only. *EAT ALL THE KHAO NOM KOK AND LAAP - The two Laotian dishes that I am now obsessed with are 1) The bite-sized coconut cakes, made with rice flour and coconut cream. These semi-sweet street treats are ridiculously tasty and addictive. And 2) Laap, a meat-based dish, flavored with things like lime, garlic, fish sauce, mint leaves, spring onion and ground toasted rice. Once it's all mixed together (in front of you), you spoon it into lettuce, wrap it up and enjoy! Know Before You Go: Lots of paperwork needs to be completed upon arrival (bring a pen). For US citizens, a visa on arrival is necessary (you'll need two passport photos and $36 USD). My UK Vodafone worldwide corporate plan covered my mobile for £5/day. A taxi to the hotel took 12-minutes and cost 50,000 KIP. All prices at my hotel were in USD, so be careful. You can easily rack up quite a hefty bill if you're not careful. Don't drink the tap water in Laos. Bottled water only. Watch out for pick-pocketing at night markets. Make sure you have insect repellent with you. #luangprabang #loas #laopeoplesdemocraticrepublic #laopdr #southeastasia #asia #mekongriver #namkhanriver #mandadelaos #coconutcakes #laap #kuangsiwaterfalls #kuangxi #tatkuangsi #bearsanctuary #mountphousi #mountphusi #phoussihill #festivaloffireboat #belmondlarésidencephouvao #belmond #watchomsibuddhisttemple #templehawphabang

  • girls just taiwanna have fun

    Taipei is the capital of Taiwan, which is officially known as the Republic of China (ROC). There may be some controversy over whether Taiwan is recognized as an independent country or not, but there's no doubt that Taipei is a modern, clean, wacky metropolis with a lively night market scene and friendly people who LOVE a claw machine. Taipei has the all expected temples, museums and tourist attractions, but there's another side to the city that is quirky and wonderful. Below is a list of what I recommend for things to do and places to eat/drink (some standard, some weird), if you find yourself in Taipei for a few days. Things to do: *GREEN CROSSING MAN: I don't know why, but one of the things that tickled me the most was the pedestrian crossing signals. Whilst exploring, note the animated green man at crosswalks. He walks to start, then runs as the time counts down, before turning red and stationary. This gave me a little chuckle at every corner! *TAIPEI 101: This skyscraper, at a height of 1,667 feet, was once the world’s tallest building (from 2003-2007). From the fifth floor of the 101 building, you can buy tickets to the observation deck. Take the lift up to the 89th floor (which takes only 37-seconds) for 360-degree panoramic views of Taipei. Whilst you're up there, walk down to the 88th floor and have yourself a cocktail at Bar 88. *LONGSHAN TEMPLE: The most well known temple in Taiwan is the Longshan Temple, built in 1738. It's free to enter, but donations are accepted, to maintain upkeep. *XIMENDING PEDESTRIAN ZONE: This was the first pedestrian zone in Taiwan and the biggest in the country. Whether you want to shop, eat or people watch, this bustling place is wort a stroll. *228 PEACE PARK: This park memorializes the victims of the February 28, 1947 incident in which an anti-government uprising in Taiwan was violently suppressed by the Kuomintang-led Republic of China government, killing thousands of civilians (~10,000). The massacre marked the beginning of the White Terror where tens of thousands of subsequent Taiwanese went missing, died or were imprisoned. *CHIAN KAI-SHECK MEMORIAL HALL AND LIBERTY SQUARE: Chian Kai-Sheck is a national monument, landmark and tourist attraction, erected in memory of Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, former President of the Republic of China. It looks out over Liberty Square. At the top of each hour, from 9am to 5pm, you can see the changing of the guards at Chian Kai-Sheck Memorial Hall. This bizarre ceremony is unlike any other guards changing I have ever seen (video below). *IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE HELLO KITTY CRAZE: Despite originating in Japan, Taiwanese adults and children alike have adopted the Hello Kitty cartoon as if it was their own. There is a whole terminal (#2) dedicated to Hello Kitty in Taipei's Taoyuan International Airport, from which you can fly Eva Air's Hello Kitty jet. Taiwan also has a Hello Kitty-inspired tourist train, Hello Kitty-themed accommodations and a maternity hospital with a Hello Kitty motif. And don't forget the specialty souvenir shops and cafes dotted around Taipei that are all centered around this cat. *JIANGUO HOLIDAY FLOWER AND JADE MARKETS: If you find yourself in Taipei on a weekend, and you want to buy yourself a jade souvenir or some flowers, this is the place. Both markets are located under an overpass and operate from 9am to 6pm. The earlier you go, the less busy it is. *BEITOU HOT SPRINGS: Just under one-hour's metro journey from Taipei's Main Station, you'll find Beitou Hot Springs. To get there, take the red Tamsui-Xinyi metro line to Beitou Station and then transfer to the pink line, for one stop, to Xinbeitou (the pink line train is super cute and colorful). There are over 20 hotels and bath houses in the area, offering public or private bathing options, but we went to the mixed gender, public Beitou Public Hot Spring (AKA Millennium Hot Spring because it was opened to the public in December 1999). This open-air complex includes three hot pools (ranging from warm to scalding) and two cold ones. It can be quite crowded. The pools are closed at various intervals each day, for cleaning (open times are listed in a photo below). Entrance is 40NT (~$1.30 USD). Towels are not provided. There are coin-operated lockers for your belongings. Other than the public hot springs, most other Beitou attractions are closed on Mondays (we found this out the hard way), so I suggest visiting another day of the week. Places to Eat/Drink: *MODERN TOILET: If you can get past the weirdness of sitting on a toilet seat, eating poo-shaped foods and drinking out of mini urinals, then you should go to this restaurant and have a laugh. The food isn't award-winning, but it's certainly a unique experience. *DIN TAI FUNG - This delicious dumpling institution originated in Taiwan in 1958. The tradition of Din Tai Fung continues today, globally, in the United States, United Kingdom, Japan, Singapore, South Korea, Australia, Indonesia, Malaysia, China, and Thailand. *WET: This rooftop bar is located on the 10th floor of the W Taipei. Head poolside for some skyline views, trendy atmosphere, wine/cocktails and some beats. *SHILIN NIGHT MARKET: Located about 70 meters from the Jiantan MRT Station, this market is a maze of alleyways, filled with chaos, local cuisine, merchandise and games. Shilin is Taiwan's largest and most popular night market. *RAKUMENYA XIMEN RESTAURANT: If you're in the Ximending neighborhood and craving ramen, visit Rakumenya. Place your order on a tablet and enjoy. *MONO MONO: This cocktail bar is off the beaten path and a little hard to find, which gives it an exclusive feel. Reviews say it is quite busy, but it was fairly empty when I went. Know Before You Go: US citizens do not need a visa, but must show proof of an onward journey (bring a printout of your flight departing Taiwan). A landing card must be completed upon arrival (so bring a pen). When you go through passport control, your fingerprints will be recorded electronically. When you leave, you simply scan your fingerprints at a machine and you're done. No need to show a passport and no exit stamp is provided. The MRT is the easiest way to get into the city from Taoyuan Airport. It's about 40-mins to Taipei Main Station and costs 150 Taiwan New Dollars (~$5 USD). People LOOOVE to queue. If there is a line somewhere, people will join it, with the mentality that whatever is on the other end must be good, even if they don't know what it is. Taipei did not seem to have a big drinking culture. Beers were available at some places, but people did not seem to be out drinking and wine was nearly impossible to find, outside Western hotel chains. My mobile (UK Vodafone, on a Worldwide corporate plan) operated for £5/day. Uber is available in Taipei or there's Find Taxi. The weather in early October was about 29°C or 84°F. It was humid, but not too sticky, the sun was out, there was a slight breeze, we only had a few sprinkles and there were no bugs. There are plans for Taiwan to establish English as it's official language, in the upcoming years, along with Mandarin. #taiwan #taipei #republicofchina #china #ROC #asia #eastasia #taipei101 #dintaifung #moderntoilet #beitouhotsprings #longshontemple #lungshantemple #228peacepark #chiangkaisheckmemorialhall #shilinnightmarket

  • lon-done and dusted

    Chances are, if you're around my age and human, you were one of the 52.5 million people who watched the Friends series finale back in 2004...In which case, you may recall the last scene where each cast member woefully set their keys on the kitchen counter and said farewell to their rent-controlled NYC apartment, before all filing out into the hallway, headed to get one last coffee at Central Perk. The cameras panned the empty living space as the light gradually dimmed and that was a wrap. Five years ago, I had my own Friends-like final act as I left my apartment keys on my housemate's desk, closed the door behind me and said good-bye to my life in San Francisco. It all faded to black as I helped myself to several large glasses of wine in the United Club lounge at San Francisco's International Airport. With tears in my eyes and excitement in my heart, I boarded the 19:40 flight from SFO to Heathrow. I had no idea what London had in store for me, but I had an open mind, all my worldly belongings packed into five suitcases and a shiny new Tier 2 Inter-Company Transfer Long-Term Staff Migrant work visa. But first, let's back up to the manic days, back in August 2014, leading up to the aforementioned transatlantic flight. Six days pre-relocation, I flew from California to Connecticut, for the weekend, to celebrate my grandmother's 100th birthday. It would have been convenient if I could have moved to Europe directly from the East Coast, rather than going back west first, but I still hadn't received my UK work visa (which was being delivered to San Francisco). At the end of the celebratory centenary weekend, for some reason which I can no longer recall, my return flight was cancelled. I finally made it back to the Bay Area late in the day on Monday (25th August). My passport/visa arrived on Tuesday (26th August), the red-eye flight departed on Wednesday (27th August) and I touched down in my new homeland on Thursday (28th August). Deepak Chopra was right that 'all great changes are preceded by chaos', but what this journey taught me was that disorder often also succeeds change. By the time I got to LHR, I must have been some combination of stressed, delirious, eager and/or unaccustomed to checking luggage because, after disembarking, I breezed through immigration and walked straight past the baggage collection area. I exited customs and entered the arrivals lobby, without any of my belongings. It wasn't until I saw a man holding a sign with my company's name on it (whom work had graciously organized to come and fetch me), that I realized that I was empty-handed. The driver asked me if I was ready to go and must have thought I was an absolute numpty when I explained that I still needed to collect my luggage. Re-entry, after clearing customs, is forbidden, so I couldn't simply turn around and retrieve my stuff. I was unlucky in locating an information desk, but did come across a bank of telephones. I picked up the receiver and let it ring. No answer. I then noticed a sign indicating to 'dial 999 in case of emergency'. I was acutely aware that this situation did not qualify as a catastrophe, but I decided to give it a go anyway. It was a low moment for me when I had to explain my situation, out loud, to the operator. Emergency Services informed the imbecile American on my end of the line that this was not an urgent circumstance and that they were unable to provide assistance. I'm quite certain that I heard a snicker prior to the dial tone. Just before the onset of a full panic attack, I found an airport employee, in a high-vis vest, who pitied me enough to come to my aid. He summoned another security guard who had me complete a form, go through a screening in a tiny, private room and endure seemingly endless questioning before escorting me back to baggage claim. There, everything I owned was circling the carousel. The security guard asked me if I had ever traveled before, had a hearty laugh at my expense and told me he couldn't wait to share this story with his wife that evening. He wished me a sardonic 'good luck' with my new life in the United Kingdom, because I'd quite obviously need it. Looking back, it was the most quintessentially British welcome I could have possibly received! Four days following my arrival into London, on 1st September 2014, I began my new job. For the first work week, I was put up in a charming 16th-century hotel, along the Thames, where my wheeled suitcase rolled across the slanted floor if I didn't lay it down flat. During that week I managed to secure an interim, one-month flat rental, through a friend of a colleague. The apartment was for sale and mostly unfurnished, but was suitable short-term. It was also located in the same area of town where I was looking to procure a more permanent option, which proved to be rather convenient. Over the next three weeks, on all my free evenings, I viewed flats. Boy did I view flats. I saw sixty-odd places before I eventually found somewhere I was proud to call home. It was a happy day, back in early October 2014, when I settled into a three-bedroom flat in a Victorian building (with a lovely roof terrace), in southwest London, which became my beloved residence for the next five years. Once the basics were sorted (employment, relocation, housing) and all my belongings were in their rightful places, I felt settled and began to enjoy my new European life. Despite the fact that my company held my fate in their hands, and I relied on my continued employment to remain in the country, I enjoyed the job. Managing global, multi-million dollar marketing/media campaigns, I finally gained that 'international work experience' that I had already been claiming on my LinkedIn profile for many years prior. My colleagues, who endearingly called me 'Sherrington,' 'Shezza' or 'Bircher', made fun of me, daily, for my (mis)pronunciations and my general lack of British knowledge. I was constantly blamed for anything that was deemed a US shortcoming (being too literal, butchering the 'English' language or whatever Trump happened to be doing at the moment), but it was all in jest. The work culture demanded that I dial down my aggressive American manner and learn to be 'fluffier' (which was the actual term my boss used during my first performance review). I wouldn't say that I was wildly successful in this endeavor, but I did make a concerted effort. When I wasn't at work, I could be found photographing London's iconic sights, indulging in afternoon tea, having a Sunday roast (only on a Sundays, of course, I'm not uncivilized) and/or trialing foods/beverages in a city where a new restaurant/bar opened just about every two days. *Fun fact - You're never more than 7 meters from a pub when in the UK's capital. I found London to be vibrant, with everything I could want or need just a slow hour's distance from my doorstep. During my five years in London, I attended many sporting events, including Premier League matches, cricket, polo, boat races, Rugby 7's, America's Cup World Series (sailing), Wimbledon, Football World Cup, Royal Ascot, Rugby World Cup and the first ever MLB London series (Red Sox vs Yankees). I went to concerts, comedy shows, the theater and even a few museums. I rode the London Eye, climbed the Tower Bridge and zip-lined across the South Bank. London’s cultural dynamism made it easy to become friends with a varied group of people who introduced me to new cultures, customs and traditions. I developed lifelong friendships and experienced moments that have turned into lasting memories. Old and new friends, from previous walks of my life, frequently intersected in London, making it an easy place to keep in touch. I took full advantage of London's connectedness with the rest of the UK, Europe and the world. On average, I took about 15 trips each year. In my five-year UK stint, I visited 45 countries, across five continents (indicated in green on the map below), many of them on multiple occasions. Politically, I observed the historic referendum where Scotland voted against ending it's 307-year-old union with UK. I witnessed Brexit, the political crisis that was, and still is, plaguing Britain, following it's decision to leave the European Union. I saw David Cameron resign as UK Prime Minister and be succeeded by Theresa May. May subsequently stepped down, after being unsuccessful in negotiating a Brexit strategy and Boris Johnson took over. I, frighteningly, watched as Donald Trump won the US Presidency and did my part to combat it by taking part in Women's March on London. I felt sorrow for the victims of the Islamic terror attacks at Westminster Bridge, London Bridge and the Manchester Arena. I watched Prince Harry wed Meghan Markle and spawn, Kate and Will had a couple more children (Charlotte & Louis) and Queen Elizabeth turned 93. I realized just how much I loved my life in London after my car accident in Brazil, in May 2017. During the five months I spent convalescing in the US, I had a lot of time to think and reflect. There were many times when I physically felt the metaphorical strings of homecoming pulling me back to Blighty. My time in London was a learning experience which I could never have gotten from any book. I discovered that I was an Anglophile at heart and gained a new sense of self along the way. Who knew I'd learn to tolerate climatic bleakness, mind gaps, drink tea, queue in an orderly fashion, acquire a whole new vocabulary and start apologizing for everything (even when not my fault)? It took a fair bit of time, but I ultimately learned how to properly do my laundry in Britain. On my four-year UK anniversary, I was informed, by my very kind housemate, that I’d been using fabric conditioner (aka fabric softener), instead of detergent. None of my clothes/linens had actually been cleaned in nearly half a decade, but they sure were soft and fragrant. I also now know that I wholeheartedly agree with Oscar Wilde that, 'humour is far superior to humor.' The British use of irony, witty quips, self-deprecation and understatements has and continues to tickle me. In addition to comedy, silly British phrases like 'squirty cream' (AKA whipped cream), the lack of open container laws, people knowing how to properly stand/move on an escalator and gun control will be amongst the things that I will miss the most about this great nation. As my visa nears its expiration, I must now legally satisfy a 12-month 'cooling off period' before I can reapply for another Tier 2 UK work permit. For the next year, I will have to allow the silhouette of London's skyline to temporarily fade into the background as I relocate to the land of Oktoberfest, pretzels and efficiency (Munich, Germany), for a forced adventure. Five years after moving to the UK (nearly to the day), I find myself back at London Heathrow, with my five suitcases, leaving behind another beloved, rent-controlled flat, lots of great friends/colleagues and a city that I love. But, this time, it is not good-bye, it's see you soon! Watch this space for #SherExit updates, as I leave Britain and enter Europe. #london #unitedkingdom #bigsmoke #britain #blighty #england #uk #europe #move #relocation #sanfrancisco #california #usa #unitedstates #unitedstatesofamerica #munich #bavaria #germany #visa #residencepermit #eu #europeanunion #brexit

  • how to spend your weekend in palma de mallorca, spain

    My suggestion would be to visit Mallorca for more than a few days, but, if all you have is a weekend, below are my recommendations to maximize your time. If you want to stay in the Santa Catalina area of Palma de Majorca, I'd recommend Hotel Saratoga. It was clean, modern, comfortable and affordable. The staff members were accommodating and the facilities were more than adequate. Get up early (by Spanish standards) on Saturday morning and go for a stroll by the harbor, to the Cathedral of Santa Maria, before everyone else awakes. Then have something to eat at Cuba. It might not be a hostel nor a hotel, but is a great place for a rooftop brunch! To walk off breakkie, stroll through the markets whilst sipping on sangria. For sunset, take the elevator at NAKAR Hotel to the 8th floor, where the bar is situated. It is the ideal spot for a sundowner whilst enjoying the views of the city. Have dinner at Sadrassana, in the old quarter of Palma. It's a chic combination of gastronomy and art. Get a traditional Mallorcan ‘coca’, the suckling pig, croquettes and the ceviche. Spend at least one day lazing by the pool, listening to Balearic tunes, getting bronzed and sipping cocktails at Purobeach Palma. #mallorca #majorca #spain #balearicislands #europe #mediterranean #palma #santacatalina #purobeachpalma

  • nuclear hipster

    Unless you've been living under a radioactive rock, you've probably watched or heard of Chernobyl, the HBO hit miniseries that aired on Mondays, from 6th May to 3rd June. The final episode, of the five installments, had more than six million viewers and the program is the highest audience-rated show on IMDb, to date. The show recounts the true story of the worst nuclear, man-made catastrophe in history, which occurred on the fatal morning of 26th April 1986, when Reactor No 4 at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant exploded, sending radioactive particles into the atmosphere, and contaminating the environment, near and far. About a decade ago, the government officially opened up the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone to tourists, but only on regulated, guided tours. Prior to that, tours operated illegally and visitors tended to be extreme disaster seekers. Today, day trips cost around £85/person and include round-trip transportation from/to Kiev and lunch. Since the debut of the show, Ukrainian tour companies have reported a 30-40 percent surge in bookings to visit the site. And, I must say, I've been feeling like a bit of a nuclear hipster, having booked my trip back in March 2019, before Chernobyl was televised and such trendy tourist destination. When visiting the Exclusion Zone, sightseers must move around in prescribed routes and comply with certain safety rules. For example, it is compulsory to wear closed-toed shoes, long-sleeves and full-length trousers (even if it's 28°C/83°F, like when I went). Touching anything or removing items from the Zone is strictly prohibited. It is also advised to not to sit nor put anything down on the ground, as the soil remains contaminated. My tour began at 8:00am, when I met the SoloEast group at Independence Square in Kiev. There were 18 of us on bus #5. Our passports were checked by our guide, Constantine, and waivers were signed before we hit the road. It was about a two-hour drive to the Dytyatky checkpoint. There was a queue to enter the Exclusion Zone, whilst paperwork was carefully inspected. As we waited, we were reminded of the safety regulation forbidding us to photograph police, guards, checkpoints, etc., but I've never been particularly great at following rules. To kill some time whilst we queued, Constantine showed us the level displayed on the Geiger counter (detector of radiation particles/waves). To put this into perspective 0.10 microSieverts (mSv) is about the level of radiation you'd get from a chest x-ray. When it was our bus' turn at the checkpoint, soldiers examined our passports against our tickets, multiple times. Once they were satisfied that everything was in order, we were allowed to pass through the gate. Our tickets were then scanned again and a sensor was issued to each of us, to be worn around our neck at all times. I presume this tracked our whereabouts, but its purpose was never officially confirmed. By the time we successfully crossed into Chernobyl Town, it was midday. We headed straight to the Desiatka Hotel's canteen for some lunch. Despite being renovated in 2014, this government-run hotel was certainly not a luxury holiday resort. After filling our bellies with adequate food, we visited St. Elijah Church, which is still in operation. For some unGODly (see what I did there?) reason, radiation surrounding this church has been/still remains exceedingly low, in comparison to the levels across the rest of the Zone. Divine intervention? The neighborhood across the road from the church was not quite as well preserved. The abandoned houses were contaminated, crumbling and deteriorated. There has been a great deal of vegetation growth over the past few decades and the natural world has filled in what was once a peopled space. Following the explosion, the Soviets relocated ~120,000 people living within a 30 km² radius of the damaged plant. Evacuees were given very little time to gather their belongings and were only allowed to take necessities, so many places were left in a messy state. Deportees were told they'd be able to return in three days. However, authorities later deemed the area unlivable forever, making Chernobyl a 1986 time capsule. As we passed by the last remaining statue of Vladimir Lenin in the Ukraine, we were reminded, once again, that this is a city frozen in time. 1,320 monuments to the Bolshevik leader have been dismantled, following the Ukraine's decommunization, but this last one, located in the deserted town of Chernobyl, will remain untouched. After saying hello, and goodbye, to Lenin, we crossed the second checkpoint, having to show our tickets and passports again, in order to enter the village of Kopachi. Only two architectural structures now remain in Kopachi: a brick building of some sort and a kindergarten. All other buildings in this village were demolished and buried, as an experiment, post-explosion. It turned out that burying the contamination meant that radioactive isotopes seeped even deeper into the environment. Just outside the kindergarten, radiation levels near the ground were measured at 6.65 mSv. It's untrue that visitors are banned from entering buildings within the Exclusion Zone, despite tour companies stipulating just that on their websites. The Kopachi kindergarten was the first structure that we got to enter. It was eerie and home to many Chernobyl Chucky dolls. After the kindergarten, we drove just a little while before pulling over to view Reactor No. 4 from across the river. The building of the concrete and steel sarcophagus (protective shelter) culminated in 2017, after two decades of construction and nearly $2 billion of investment. The structure traps 16-tons of uranium/plutonium and 30-tons of highly contaminated dust under it's arch. It is anticipated to last 100 years. This was as close as I assumed we'd get to Reactor No. 4, but I was wrong. We got just about as close as one could possibly get, without going inside. We then drove about three miles northwest of the power plant, arriving at the once modern city of Pripyat. This town was established 4th February 1970, as a model Soviet city, designed for the Chernobyl workers and their families. It has remained uninhabited since the Soviets ordered evacuation of its 50,000 inhabitants. Back in it's heyday, Pripyat was a prosperous town, with nightclubs, cinemas, concert halls, department stores, hotels and even it's own football team/stadium. It is now, however, a modern day Pompeii. Our walk through the ghost town began at Cafe Pripyat. Prior to the disaster, this was a place where young city dwellers (the average age in Pripyat was 25) would gather to chat and drink on the terrace that overlooked the water. The cafe's once beautiful stained glass front is now in ruins. Behind the cafe, a river boat sinks into the bank of the contaminated Pripyat River. We then walked by Hotel Polissia, one of the tallest buildings in the abandoned city. Before it became radioactive, this hotel housed delegates and guests visiting the power plant. The Pripyat supermarket would have been unidentifiable in its function without the shopping trolleys present. On the upstairs level, inhabitants would have once shopped for furniture, which explains the random couches scattered about. Pripyat's Palace of Culture 'Energetik', was a play on words meaning both 'energetic' (lively) and also in reference to the energy being generated by the nearby power plant. Energetik was designed for people to enjoy a range of recreational and artistic activities, all under the (literal) banner of political propaganda. The picture below shows the agitprop signs that were being created in April 1986, in preparation for May Day (1st May) festivities. Included in the Palace of Culture block of buildings was a cinema, theatre, library, gymnasium, swimming pool, boxing ring and meeting halls. The only one we visited was the dilapidated cinema. Outside the public restrooms, at the cinema, was an actual throne, which made me chuckle. As we progressed through Pripyat, we came across this gas mask hanging on a tree. It served as another haunting reminder of the terrible tragedy that had occurred here. The next location we visited was a battered indoor swimming pool. Then, it was onward to the amusement park, the unsettling icon of the Chernobyl disaster. The park's inauguration was planned for 1st May 1986, but it never came, so now the bumper cars and the ferris wheel sit neglected, 30+ years later, while nature has taken over, in the absence of humanity. The amusement park contains varying levels of radiation. The concrete areas are mostly safe, but there's a spot (marked with an 'x') underneath one of the ferris wheel carriages with the highest levels radiation that I saw on the tour (225.3 mSv). After the park, we visited the abandoned Avanhard Stadium, which was once home ground for FC Stroitel Pripyat. Bum splinters anyone? One of the most interesting parts of the Pripyat tour was being able to climb up to the ninth floor rooftop of an apartment building. The greatest danger here was not radiation, but the deterioration of the building. The flooring was uneven and unstable. It felt like the whole property could collapse at any moment. From the top of the crumbling structure, I could see the overgrown streets of Pripyat and other decaying apartment blocks. On the way down from the roof, I nosed around inside a few of the flats. I was surprised to see so much upheaval. Appliances were overturned and the floors were littered with broken glass and debris, but otherwise bare. It turns out that robbery could not be prevented over the years, despite Police/Army guarding. The whole city of Pripyat had been ransacked and thieves took all precious items that had been left behind. The ultimate karma being that the plunderers likely suffered from radiation sickness as a result of their burglary. On the ground of one apartment, I saw a newspaper that had been left there for more than 30 years. The front page story was about Gorbachev's New Year's address to the Soviet people, in 1986 (thank you to my lovely seatmate on the plane back to London, for translating). With the Pripyat portion of the tour completed, we got back on the bus and drove through the 'Red Forest', which got its name from the ginger-brown color that the pines trees turned after they died from high levels of radiation absorption. As we drove through the Red Forest, our Geiger counter started beeping and going mental. The Red Forest remains one of the most contaminated areas in the world today. The last stop before our tour concluded was Duga-2, a top-secret Soviet military base hidden within the irradiated forest. Soviets used radar to detect potential missiles coming from the US airspace. The site officially never existed. It was marked as a children’s summer camp on maps. Like everything else in the Exclusion Zone, Duga-2 was abandoned in 1986. Upon exiting the Zone, we were required to go through a machine that measures radiation on your person. If contamination exceeds established levels, items will need to be left behind. I was not 100% convinced that this machine actually worked, but I complied regardless. If you want to see what the aftermath of a nuclear disaster looks like, there is no better place than the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone. But get there before the rest of the nuclear hipsters show up. And before the buildings collapse. If you do, please visit with respect and remember that this is a site of tragedy, sorrow and sacrifice. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Bring your passport on the tour; it is compulsory Pack insect repellent in the summer months The currency is the Ukrainian hryvnia. Everything is inexpensive compared to London. If you want to use a drone in the Exclusion Zone, prior permission should be requested #kiev #kyiv #ukraine #chernobyl #europe #easterneurope #soviet #lenin #pripyat #chernobyl #chornobyl #nucleardisaster #powerplant #radiation

  • my not-so touristy weekend in seville, spain

    I must admit that I was a pretty bad tourist this past weekend in Seville, Spain. I had received many recommendations for things to do, but it was so hot and all I really felt like doing was eating/drinking in shaded/misted areas, so that's what I did! Below you'll find a list of my top restaurant/bar choices, accommodation suggestions and some recommendations for things to do (most of which I didn't actually do). My Favorites Places to Dine/Drink: You really can’t go wrong just about anywhere in Seville. The small city a goldmine for foodies. I ate at many more places that I've listed, but the ones below were my favorites. I didn't eat meals so much as I grazed. I tried to limit myself to about two dishes at each place that I frequented so that I didn't fill up. As for drinks, the verdejo, albarino and white rioja just about everywhere was divine. I did try sherry, as it's my namesake, but it was not something I'll consuming again anytime soon. Don't let the smile on my face in the photo below fool you. Sherry is not for everyone. My absolute favorite meal was at a place called El Pinton which I'd previously been told about. Inside was an Adalusian-style courtyard (reminded me a bit of Cuba). Outside was covered by a tarp, an awning and had misting sprayers overhead. The service was great. The food was a modern twist on tapas, with pretty large portions (so don't over order). The squid linguine was particularly memorable. El Rinconcillo, Seville's most ancient bar has been serving homestyle tapas dishes since 1670, before tapas were even a thing. It was cozy and we had to stand, but it was great! Go to EME Catedral Hotel's 4th floor roof terrace if you want to sip expensive cocktails whilst overlooking the cathedral. Stay: I would suggest staying where I stayed, at Hotel Fernando III. It was located in the old town and was a close walk to everything. It was pretty inexpensive, but still clean and modern. There was a rooftop pool/bar that came in handy during siesta time (roughly 3:00-5:00 pm). I also stumbled across Hotel Alcazar, which looked very boutique-y and really nice. Since I didn't stay there, I can't vouch for the rooms, but it was also very centrally located and I'd probably give it a go next time. Tourist Attractions: Cathedral and Giralda Bell Tower: I didn't have a whole lot of interest in a hot cathedral nor a hike up a tower in the heat, so I only saw this from the outside. However, I was told to go when it opened to try to avoid the masses. Tickets could be purchased online (for faster entrance), but were also available at the door. Views from the top of the tower were meant to be stunning. The tower was 30 levels up - no stairs but a constant incline. The Royal Alcazar: I didn’t listen to the advice of my friend and buy tickets in advance, which was a massive failure. I would have really liked to have visited, but the line was way too long and the wait was in direct sunlight, so I decided to give this a miss, but here’s what I know, based on the recommendations I received: Buy your tickets online ahead of time (€11.50) to bypass the giant queue outside. You don't have to print them; bar codes can be scanned on your phone. If you love gardens and water features, this is for you. Plaza de Espana: This was about a 15-20 minute walk from the old town, through the Murillo Gardens. I went nice and early in the morning to avoid the heat and the people. Around 9:30 am the tourist groups started piling in. It was free to enter and open 24/7. The beautiful open monument had a tile facade for each of Spain's major cities. Lovely architecture and definitely worth a visit! The Bull Ring: I did not go to this; I had no real interest. But if you do, I believe the tickets are around €9 and I think you are required to do a guided tour. The River: The river is a lovely walk and view, but there was very little to actually do there. Flamenco: I went to La Carboneria for a less touristy/more authentic, easygoing flamenco experience. The venue was located several hundred feet from my hotel, which was handy. The drinks were nothing to write home about, but were inexpensive and the atmosphere was buzzing. I think it opened at 10:30pm and shows started around every 30-minutes.

  • the unexpected culinary delights of riga

    What comes to mind when you think of Riga? Probably not Latvian cuisine. However, this Baltic nation’s food is becoming less of secret after it was awarded the European Region of Gastronomy title in 2017. Wedged between Scandinavia and Eastern Europe, Latvia's gastronomy is heavily influenced by its neighbors but also impacted by native traditions/ingredients. As an added bonus, even the best restaurants in Riga serve food at reasonable prices. Sure, there's other stuff you should see. Riga is famous for its medieval Old Town, the House of Blackheads, several cathedrals and its city center (in which 800+ buildings are of the Art Noveau style of architecture). Work up an appetite walking around and then spend the rest of your time exploring Riga's budding food/beverage scene! Below, I have compiled a list of restaurants that should not be missed if you find yourself in Riga. Morning: Stop at Kukotava for a coffee/tea and be sure to treat your taste buds to a pastry or two. The smell of the place will make your mouth water. If you want something more substantial than baked goods, you might consider Riits for a delicious, organic brunch in an cute place with an open kitchen and adorable interior design. Daytime: Go to Biblioteka No 1 for Instagrammable decor, views of Vērmane Park, impeccable service, creative cuisine and a strong wine list. The website doesn't do it justice, but trust me, you should go. Stop by Black Magic Bar, after exploring the old town, to discover Riga’s national drink, Black Balsam. Also, enjoy some chocolates. Behind the bookcase door, there are hidden stairs down to the alchemist’s laboratory. If you fancy a mid-day New Zealand sauvignon blanc, hit up Kiwi Bar. Situated under St. Peter's Church in Riga's old town, this casual sports bar is a nice place to rest your feet. Evening/Night: Head up to the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Latvija Conference & Spa Hotel, for views at the Skyline Bar. It's a nice place to watch the city transform from day to night. If you're looking for a grand meal, book dinner in advance at Vincent's. This place offers Michelin Star level food from one of the best chefs in Eastern Europe, Martins Ritins. The ingredients are of the highest quality and expertly sourced. The service is professional and attentive. The cost might be high by Latvian standards, but is reasonable in comparison to what you'd pay at comparable restaurants in other European capitals. After dinner, walk about 5-minutes down the road and enjoy aperitifs at Left Door Bar. Great atmosphere and delicious cocktails. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Use Taxify, now called Bolt, as an incredibly inexpensive and efficient way to get around town. They drive on the right-hand side of the street. They use the Euro and everything is cheap (in comparison to London). European plugs are used. #riga #latvia #europe

  • two days in the city with two names

    *CliffsNotes history refresher (in <150 words) for those of you who don't know/remember... Vietnam was under French rule from the 1880's until 1954, when it declared its independence. As France withdrew its forces, the country was divided into northern and southern regions. The communist government of North Vietnam, and its rebel allies in the South (Viet Cong), fought against the non-communist South Vietnam (backed by the United States), in the Vietnam War (known as the 'America War' in Vietnam). The estimated total death count (military + civilian) was about 2.3 million and the war cost was calculated to have been around $200 billion. The war ended in 1975, when North Vietnam captured Saigon. The North and South were reunified to become the one-party communist state we currently know. In 1976, Saigon was officially remained Ho Chi Minh City (after the revolutionary leader of the communist party). Which brings us to the present...Today, the names Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) and Saigon are used interchangeably and synonymously. I personally prefer to kick it old-school and use Saigon. This city with two names is raw, dizzying and frenetic, rich in both history and culture. It's a place full of wonderment, discovery and development. Modern skyscrapers are replacing historical landmarks, but many stories still remain hidden behind the doors of old, French, colonial buildings. Saigon is a bustling blend of old and new. In this densely-populated city of ~9 million people, 7.43 million own motorbikes. Officially, they drive on the right-hand side of the road, but motorcycles, cars, buses, trucks and bicycles come from every direction. It's not uncommon to see rogue scooters mount the sidewalks. Heavily congested traffic, lack of lanes/road rules and meaningless pedestrian crossings make getting across the street an obstacle course that is not for the faint-hearted. If you're ever going to get anywhere, there is no room for fear, nor hesitation, you must just go, confidently. Saigon is split into 19 districts, but most of the traffic and action takes place in District 1 (where I stayed). It's also where most of the trendier restaurants/bars can be found, as well as several of the city's landmarks. From historical sites and rooftop bars to elegant shopping malls and old-fashioned markets crowded with stalls, there is something for everyone in HCMC. My suggestions for must-sees include the following (in no particular order): Orient yourself, from above, by heading to the Bitexco Financial Tower. This building is one of the tallest beacons on the Saigon skyline. The 68-floor, 263-meter tower has a helipad cantilevered out from the 52nd floor, designed to resemble a blossoming lotus bud. You can either pay to ascend to the Skydeck, or you can visit floor 52 to have a beverage and drink in the panoramic views from the Eon Heli Bar (for about the same price as entrance to the observation deck). The Binh Tay Market, in District 6, is HCMC's largest market. If you're looking for spices, dried seahorses, flip flops, conical hats, kitchenware, jewelry or knock-off handbags, you're in the right place. Don’t expect a hard sales pitch here. For every vendor doing math on a portable calculator, there’s another having a snooze on a mini, plastic, garden chair. Have a wander down Bui Vien Walking Street (and the surrounding area), day or night, for cheap drinks and fascinating people watching. Similar to Khao San Road in Bangkok or Pub Street in Siem Reap, this street is loud, grungy and full of backpackers, prostitutes and sloppy drunks, especially when the sun goes down and traffic backs up as the street fills with pedestrians. Be prepared for dance music to vibrate your teeth as the neighboring pubs, bars and clubs try to outdo each other with the volume of their beats. Love it or hate it, it's worth experiencing. If you start to feel confined by the crowds and want to escape the noise, find a rooftop bar, grab a delicious cocktail and watch the chaos from above. The View Rooftop Bar at Duc Vuong Hotel is a good choice for low-cost drinks overlooking Bui Vien Street. Fancy a historical excursion? Go to the Cu Chi Tunnels. In order to combat better-supplied American and South Vietnamese forces during the Vietnam War, the Viet Cong dug tens of thousands of miles of underground passages (about 250km of which run underneath the Cu Chi district northwest of Saigon). Viet Cong soldiers used these tunnels as living quarters, hospitals, shelter during combat, for transportation of communications and supplies and to lay booby traps (after which they could disappear quickly and safely underground). I booked a half-day tour through Deluxe Group Tours, for VND 567,000 (£18.44). My guide, 'Tommy Hilfiger', was fantastic! His personal stories added a raw and powerful element to an already intense experience. Towards the end of the tour, we had the opportunity to hide in rabbit holes and to crawl through some of the safer, steaming hot, claustrophobic tunnels. Despite having been made bigger to accommodate Westerns, they are still TINY and gave me an appreciation of how tough life in the tunnels must have been. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Try to sort out your visa ahead of time (if you require one). eVisa is the way to go. Be prepared for long visa/immigration queues at the airport. Check that you are current on any recommended inoculations. The currency is the Vietnamese dong (VND), but USD are also widely accepted (although you'll get a worse rate with $). Dong banknotes range from 100-500,000. When you go to the cash machine and withdraw VND3,000,000 you will feel like a baller (even though it's equivalent to less than £100). Not gonna lie, I felt the urge to yell 'I won!' when my cash was dispensed. Best to have cash on you as credit cards aren't widely accepted, outside of touristy places. Everything in Vietnam is inexpensive. You can respectfully haggle if you wish as well. The food is amazing, but be wary of street food, if you have a weak stomach. Do not drink the water, under any circumstances. The most common way to say 'cheers' in Vietnam is 'yoooooooo'. Don't be surprised if you see people sucking on giant balloons in bars/on the streets. There is a disturbing new trend of inhaling nitrous oxide on the rise in HCMC. Grab is Asia's version of Uber. It's cheap and worked really well for me. Both US and Euro plugs can be utilized in Vietnam. The electricity supply is 220 volts. The city is safe overall, but be wary of petty theft and pick-pocketing. Adequate wifi was available at just about every establishment. #hochiminhcity #saigon #vietnam #southeastasia #asia #bitexcofinancialtower #vietnamwar #americanwar #binhtaymarket #buivienwalkingstreet #cuchitunnels #mylaimassacre

  • booze-banned brunch in bangkok

    On Friday evening (15th March 2019) I decided I fancied a trip to Vietnam that weekend. I discovered that, as an American, I required a visa for entry, so I visited iVisa, input my information, selected the 'Visa on Arrival' option (I didn't have time for the eVisa), paid for 3-hour expedited processing and then I crossed my fingers and waited. In the meantime, I presumptuously scheduled the next three business days off from work, rearranged Monday and Tuesday's conference calls, organised coverage for the meetings I couldn't change and activated my email out of office reply. It ended up taking more than 3-hours, but my Vietnamese visa was approved at 4:16am on Saturday. I awoke at 5:30am, texted my friend in Bangkok to confirm that he was around/free on Sunday, booked my flight to Ho Chi Minh City (with a long layover in Bangkok), packed and headed to an internet cafe to print off my Vietnamese visa. Unluckily, the printer at the shop was out of order, so I grabbed a cab and headed to London Heathrow. Printing would have to wait until Thailand. I boarded the 11.5-hour Thai Airways flight around 11am and was in the air at 11:53am. By 1:30pm, I was wearing my seat mate's whole glass of white wine. She acknowledged that she spilled on me by saying 'oh, it's only a little bit.' It was not. She then gathered up her and her travel companion's extra napkins and used them to clean up the few droplets on her tray. Meanwhile, a puddle of wine pooled at the back of my seat. As I rang for the flight attendant, to ask for something to wipe up the mess with, I heard the lady next to me's friend say 'you don't owe her an apology!' The fun didn't stop there, people. My neighbor proceeded to fidget the entire flight, elbowing me endlessly as she repositioned her belongings, put on/took off compression socks, dug snacks out of her bag and blew up her giant neck pillow (which wasn't all that dissimilar to this cat scratching post bed). At one point she opened a broadstreet newspaper, to its full width, to catch up on current events. Suffice to say, yet again, I was not seated next to my soul mate. When we landed at 6:30am, I was not disappointed when we went our separate ways. Getting off the plane, through immigration/customs and securing a taxi all went quite smoothly. I showed up on the doorstep of my friend's flat at 7:30am, ready for some Paddy's Day drinking, only to be informed of a 24-hour nationwide ban on alcohol (from 6pm Saturday to 6pm Sunday) ahead of the national election. No restaurant, bar nor hotel was allowed to sell alcohol without the risk of imprisonment and/or fines. Nevermind that! We smuggled in our own vodka, in a Swell bottle. Since I woke everyone up at the crack of dawn and I only had 8 hours in Bangkok, we headed out on the town straight away. We arrived at Bangkok's newest mall, ICONSIAM, at 9:50am and loitered until they opened the doors at 10am. Super keen! We had a few refreshing beverages at a restaurant overlooking the river while we waiting for the brunch place to open (at noon). After morning cocktails, we headed to The Sukhothai Hotel for an extravagant brunch at Restaurant Colonnade. Whilst gazing out at the serene Chedi pond and listening to live jazz, I dined on endless lobster, king crab, oysters and sashimi. The hotel staff was kind enough to print my visa for me before we hit the road and my friends dropped me off back at the airport. Next stop: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (just as the alcohol ban was lifted)! #bangkok #thailand #southeastasia #asia #brunch #iconsiam #sukhothaihotel

  • majestic malta

    If you ever make it to the Maltese Archipelago, consider yourself lucky. It's a very special place, comprised of three main islands (Malta, Comino and Gozo), in the central Mediterranean, between Sicily and the North African coast. The climate is great, there's an exceptionally friendly culture and it's stunningly beautiful. Also, for its small size, it packs quite a punch with three UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Using my Starwood points, I was able to stay, for free, in the lovely Le Meridien hotel, which overlooks Balluta Bay in St. Julian's. The hotel staff is wonderful and St. Julian's is a lovely area of Malta (right on sea, with several good restaurants nearby). From the hotel, it is only about 30 minutes to get anywhere on the island. And, if you fancy a bit of pampering, the Myoka Spa at the hotel, is absolutely amazing and the facilities are free to hotel guests. Some of the highlights of Malta, that should not be missed include: Visit the Blue Grotto, near Weid iz-Zurrieg, in the south of the island. Pull over along the main road to see the cliffs and caves from above. Then, walk down to sea-level and take a boat trip through the sea caves (€8). If you're interested, visit the nearby Hagar Qim and Mnajdra temples before going to the Blue Grotto (to eliminate walking up a lot of hills), but I would recommend skipping them both. They're not worth the €10 entry fee, in my opinion. The history is interesting but the temples are not that impressive now that a white dome has been constructed over them, obstructing photos and taking away from the authenticity. Marsaxlokk is a cute little fishing village near to the Blue Grotto. Both of these places can be visted in the same day. I'd suggest visiting Marsaxlokk on a Sunday morning (before noon) to see the fish markets, grabbing a fresh seafood lunch and then taxiing/driving to the Blue Grotto. If you can't make it on a Sunday morning, it's also very pretty at sunset. Visit Valletta, the country's capital. If you've rented a car, park in Sliema and take a water ferry over, so you can get the view of Valletta from the sea. If not, taxi or bus to Valletta and then hire a little boat to take you around the harbor. Wander around the narrow streets by foot. Visit the gardens and St. John's Co-Cathedral (which was, sadly, closed when I was there). The ancient, walled city of Mdina is a must. Go in the late afternoon and get lost in the labyrinth of narrow streets. Be sure to catch the views of Malta at sunset. It's a very small area, so you don't really need to more than an hour or so. Be sure to factor in time for a drink (or two) at Bacchus to kill some time before going to dinner at de Mondion in the Xara Palace (it doesn't open until 7:30pm Monday-Saturday). Book in advance because you do not want to miss out on this meal. Visit Gozo by Ferry. Depart from Ċirkewwa, on a 25-minute journey through the Gozo channel. Gozo is the second largest of the Maltese islands, but is quite small. Whilst there be sure to see the Azure Window, Cittadella and the UNESCO World Heritage Ġgantija Temples (which are older than the Pyramids and Stonehenge). Do a quad tour if you're feeling adventurous. Comino Island, which sits between Malta and Gozo, is meant to be a paradise for swimmers, snorkelers and divers alike. Unfortunately, in December, there are no boats running so I was unable to visit. I'm told that the Blue Lagoon on Comino is absolutely amazing! The food in Malta is really fresh and delicious, although it contains quite a lot of garlic. Pasta dishes are a staple at almost any restaurant, which makes sense given Malta's proximity to Italy. You'll also find heaps of seafood options. Your trip to Malta cannot be considered complete without trying a Pastizzi (a savory pastry stuffed with either mushy peas or ricotta). The local wine is also good in Malta - Believe me, I tried a lot of it! Below are some restaurant recommendations in various areas of Malta: Raffael, Spinola Bay, St. Julian's - Try the Crispy Spaghetti Carbonara for a new take on spaghetti. And the Mozzarella di Bufalo con Prosciutto di Parma Crocante salad is pretty much the best salad I've ever had. Rampila, Valletta - Sit on the terrace if it's warm enough. If not the cave-like atmosphere inside is also very cute. Barracuda, Balluta Bay, St. Julian's - Sit on the covered terrace and enjoy the waves crashing below your feet. Ta' Frenc, Gozo - Award winning. de Mondion in The Xara Palace, Mdina - Amazing food and spectacular views. Known Before You Go: The public bus system is easy enough to figure out and gets you almost anywhere you want to go. The buses are new and never seem to be too crowded. That said, our hotel offered taxis on a flat rate system, so we used that mode of transportation most of the time, purely out of laziness and convenience. Avoid Paceville, unless you're seeking gentlemen's clubs, ice bars, very young bar goers and/or late night McDonalds. Malta is part of the European Union and uses the Euro. Most things are pretty inexpensive, in comparison to London. The people are incredibly friendly, helpful and wonderful - One guy even stopped his car in the middle of the road and waited for me to finish taking a picture before he carried on driving. Tipping: 10-15% in restaurants. There's no need to tip taxi drivers unless they are helpful. People drive like maniacs and do not appear to know how to use roundabouts. Be careful if self-driving and buckle up. Safety never takes a day off. Malta is known for lace and glass-making. Who knew? #malta #marsaxlokk #bluegrotto #valletta #mdina #gozo #comino #tips #europe #azurewindow #citadella #UNESCO #temples #caves #weidizzurrieg #whattodoinmalta

  • weekend in warsaw

    In Greek mythology, the Phoenix died in a show of flames and combustion before its rebirth, rising from ashes to start anew. 'The Phoenix City', Warsaw's fitting moniker, emerged from its resurrection and transformation following WWII decimation and Communist oppression. In 1944, the anti-Nazi uprising infuriated German leaders. To punish the city, Hitler ordered that the Polish capital be flattened by fire and dynamite. More than 85% of the city's historic center was reduced to rubble. This past Saturday's free walking tour taught me that Warsaw's 'Old' Town was rebuilt post-war, largely based on 18th century paintings, so meticulously that UNESCO added it on the World Heritage List, in 1980. I also learned that the people of Poland love Christmas so much that festive decor and lights are put up in November and kept up through early February. Within the Old Town, located at 20-22 Kanonia Street, was one of the narrowest houses in Warsaw, constructed as a strategy for avoiding property taxes. The 17-century tax system was based on the width of a home's front-facing facade and the number of windows it had. Although the house got a lot wider in the back (pictured below), the clever construction of this property in the front would have saved its original owners a lot of złoty. Outside the Old Town, Warsaw's architecture varied widely, reflecting the city's long, turbulent history. There were Gothic churches, Renaissance-style historical landmarks, neoclassical palaces as well as Soviet-era blocks and modern skyscrapers. The Palace of Culture and Science (shown below) was a 'gift' from Stalin to symbolize how strategically important Poland was to Moscow. It stands taller than any other building in Poland and remains a divisive and controversial building, serving as constant reminder of the Soviet occupation. Despite being freezing cold, I had a wander through Warsaw's largest park, Łazienki Park, which occupies 76 hectares of the City Center. I was told that peacocks made this park their home, but they seemed to be hiding when I was there. To stay warm, I spent quite a bit of time indulging in Warsaw's eclectic international cuisine offerings. Below are my recommendations for meals and drinks: U TATO - Hearty Georgian cuisine at a fair price. Hala Koszyki - A hip food court. The tapas at Sobremesa were delicious. Taverna Patris - Traditional Greek food, in an unpretentious converted house. Hala Gwardii - Food market in an industrial building formerly used for boxing matches. I had the pierogis. Superiore Wine Bar: A hybrid wine shop, restaurant and bar. Panorama Sky Bar - Cocktails and city views from a swanky lounge on the 40th Floor of the Marriott. Prosta Historia - The food looked great, but I only had drinks. Momu: Nice atmosphere and helpful, English-speaking staff. Warsaw has come a long way since the systematic destruction of its city and Soviet occupation. This Phoenix City serves as an inspiring example of indestructibility. If you're looking for a modern city with an Old Town as colorful as its past, interesting architecture, peacocks, and an increasing number of shiny new skyscrapers, restaurants, designer shops and bars, then Warsaw might be the destination you're after. #warsaw #poland #europe #pheonix #pheonixcity

  • cape verde: sea, sun, sand, sharks and salt, but 'no stress'

    'Same, same but different', a commonly heard phrase around Thailand/Southeast Asia, often used to describe subtle nuances or create intentional ambiguity. Costa Rica's philosophy of 'pura vida' encompasses a free spirit and an appreciation of life's simple things. The expression 'This is Africa' (often abbreviated to 'TIA') is both a term of endearment and a way to shrug off inconveniences. I recently added a new travel mantra to my list after I was introduced to Cape Verde's quite literal motto, 'no stress'. I can attest to the truth of the saying and the relaxed nature of Cape Verde, however the journey there was not exactly stress-free. The 6-hour TUI flight from London to Boa Vista was like a wildlife documentary, and I'm not referring only to the mating practices occurring in the seats beside me. Adults roared with laughter, babies screeched, herds congregated in the aisles, bare feet emitted distressing smells, lavatories overflowed and rubbish obscured the floor. Society would benefit greatly from the people on this flight being caged when on the solid ground. Citizens of most countries need a visa to enter the Cape Verde islands. The visa can be pre-arranged by booking a package deal through an agency or by visiting an embassy/consulate in Brussels, Netherlands or Senegal. These option didn't suit me, so I was forced to stand in the hour-long queue, alongside ~150 of my feral plane-mates, in order to obtain the €25 visa on arrival. Only after clearing passport control, with the animals left in the brave hands of tour companies to deliver them to their respective all-inclusive kennels, errr resorts, did the 'no stress' ideology really settle in. Cape Verde (or Cabo Verde, as referred to by the locals) is made up of a cluster of 10 islands, born of volcanic fury. The archipelago floats in the Atlantic Ocean, about 500 km/310 miles off the northwest coast of Africa. Formerly a colony of Portugal, until peaceful independence was gained in 1974, African soul still mixes with Portuguese history to create an exotic, easy-going culture. Charter and cheap holiday deals have increased tourism in recent years, but Cape Verde, as a whole, is still not very exploited. The first island I visited, Boa Vista, has benefited from growing tourism since the inauguration of its international airport, in 2007. It is now the second most visited island, behind Sal. It has an ever-increasing number of hotels and resorts, however, much of the island is still undeveloped. It's interior is flat, with desert-like, barren landscapes. The beaches on Boa Vista are stunning, with golden sands running into azure waters... ...And the sunsets are colorful. On this island, constant high winds create perfect conditions for water sports like kitesurfing, wind surfing and sailing. Two-third of my days in Boa Vista were spent relaxing at the Tortuga Beach Club, sunning my UK pigment-devoid body, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere, eating wahoo and swatting flies. For 4-hours of one day, my friend and I hired a private guide to take us on a tour around the northwest portion of the island. After about 6km of rough off-roading, (most of Boa Vista's roads are treacherous), we arrived at Praia de Atalanta, home to the Spanish cargo ship, Cabo Santa Maria, which ran aground on 1st September 1968. Driving due south, we arrived at the Viana Desert, a small desert patch formed by the accumulation of sand grains that continuously blow over from the Sahara. The rolling white dunes are interspersed with black volcanic rocks and sparse vegetation. We entertained ourselves for hours, running and jumping around in the dunes. Covered in sand and exhausted from exertion, our guide took us to a local watering hole (otherwise known as his mate's house) for a local beer, before dropping us back at Hotel Dunas. Other favorites on Boa Vista included: 1. Beramar Restaurant. There were only 7 tables, so reservations were necessary. The food was excellent! We actually went there twice (of our three nights). 2. Morabeza Beach Bar & Restaurant Lounge. Morabeza is a Cape Verdean concept/lifestyle akin to the spirit of Aloha in Hawaii, involving looking at life in a kinder way. The Estoril Beach bar/restaurant, with this notion's namesake, is adorable and definitely worth a visit. After four days it was time to leave Boa Vista and island-hop over to Sal. The domestic flight took a mere 14-minutes. Although smaller, geographically, than Boa Vista, Sal is bigger in tourism. The southern beach town of Santa Maria, where I stayed, has the liveliest tourist scene on the island, with plenty of watersports centers, hotels and restaurants. Although built up on shorelines, the brown terrain of the undeveloped, non-coastal parts of Sal would likely make the moon look fertile. Our first day in Sal, we decided to acquaint ourselves by taking a full-day tour. The concierge at our hotel, Aparthotel Santa Maria Beach, made the all the arrangements. For €25 each, our local guide, Kenneth, shared his island with us (and six other people), for 8-hours. Road safety did not appear to be a top priority in Cape Verde, given that the traditional mode of tour transportation involved sitting on a bench in the bed of a Toyota truck, with no seat belts. Luckily traffic was light and drivers were cautious. The first stop on the expedition was Murdeira Bay, a top diving spot. Lava rock formations surrounded the turquoise waters which were protected by Monte Leão (a mountain resembling a sleeping lion), across the bay. En route to our next location, we took a dirt track passing by shanty dwellings in deprived areas outskirting Espargos (Sal's capital). We came to a stop at a brick shack, in the middle of nowhere, called ‘Bar Mirage’. Although we were not near water, a lake appeared in the distance. After gazing at the optical illusion in the abyss for a time, it was onward to the Buracona Lagoon, to scamper around the volcanic rocks and explore sea caves, swimming holes and grottoes. Although the whole area is beautiful, the 'blue eye' is the wonder that puts Buracona on the map. Legend has it that when the sun's rays hit the water at the bottom of the cave, just right, the entire surface lights up bright blue. Unfortunately, the sun's position did not cooperate with our timing, so we were unable to experience this phenomenon. We then popped by Palmeira, a fishing village and home to the main port on the island of Sal. This port is vital to Sal's economy as everything they need, apart from seafood/fish and salt, has to be imported. From Palmeira, we drove about 10-minutes to Espargos (Portuguese for 'asparagus'), where we ate lunch. Espargos is not only the capital, but also the main commercial center of the island. According to Kenneth, 18,000 of Sal's 30,000 population reside here. The stop following lunch was the highlight of the tour for me. For €2, you were required to rent water shoes. Of course everyone else on the tour had no issues, but I had to basically bribe a local child to lend me her pink Crocs, which were still far too big for my tiny feet. Once fitted for shoes, the group waded out into the sea to behold baby and adult lemon sharks, up close. For perspective, view the the photo below. Note the fin separating the two people on the right from the rest of the group. We watched as the 8-foot sharks ducked and dived over the waves, showing off their fins. I'm told that lemon sharks only eat fish and are not interested in dining on humans...Even little humans. Salinas de Pedra de Lume was the final stopping place on the tour. In a moon-like crater of an extinct volcano, seawater turns into salt as the sun evaporates the water in the basins. Due to the uniqueness of the site, as well as it's historical and natural characteristics, Pedra de Lume is currently on the tentative UNESCO World Heritage list. The salt pans are a perfect spot for a relaxing float. It was claimed that these pools have a higher concentration of salt than the Dead Sea. Although I did not find that to be the case, I did enjoy being buoyant. The remaining days on Sal were spent coastally. The island is much less windy than it's neighbor, Boa Vista, and there are far fewer flies. Year-round temperatures in Sal, and all of Cape Verde, range from 24-30°C/75-86°F. Humidity is low and mosquitoes don't exist. Perfect weather means that Cape Verdean life revolves around beach activities. Local gyms were set up right in the sand (move over Venice Beach, CA)! Elite skimboarders did masterful tricks. There was even a bounce house-style water park in the sea, for the kiddos. New Year's Eve was spent at a restaurant called Palm Beach, also on the beach. They didn't take reservations, so we arrived at 6:30pm to secure the best seats in the house, right in the front, facing the ocean, in preparation for the fairly lame fireworks that took place oddly at 11:30pm. Then, just before midnight, the guy on the mic was too relaxed to count properly, so the countdown went like this '10, 9, 8, 1, oops, 6, 5, 1, Happy New Year!' Ah well, no stress, feliz ano novo! The laid-back creole culture, combined with the stunning beaches, friendly people, political stability, english-speaking and perfect weather could relax even the most wound up of people. Cape Verde is up-and-coming and fairly new to the travel circuit, but has lots of plans for continued development. If I were you, I would add this to my travel list before the masses catch wind. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Cape Verde's time zone is one hour behind London (GMT). They drive on the right side of the road, mostly in brand new Toyota trucks. Cape Verde was not included in my mobile plan network, and cost an absolute fortune, so I only used it on airplane mode. WiFi was widely available, but not particularly strong. The Cape Verdean escudo is a closed currency, not available outside the country. Euros and escudos are widely accepted, but credit cards are not. The escudo is fixed at a rate of 100 escudos to 1 euro. You will often received a mix of currencies as change. Service in restaurants/bars is very slow, but tours and flights tend to run on time. A small tip is always welcomed, though not required. Don't drink the water. Tourism has replaced salt and fishing as the main source of income in the Cape Verde islands. Crime is low and Cape Verde is a politically stable nation. Don't bother with fancy clothing and, ladies, don't even consider wearing heals. #capeverde #boavista #salrei #vianadesert #shipwreck #praiadeatalanta #cabosantamaria #morabeza #africa #desert #sal #santamaria #murdeira #buracona #blueeye #palmeira #espargos #sharkbay #pedradelume #newyearseve

  • stockholm underground art tour

    The Stockholm metro system is said to be the world's longest art exhibit at 110 kilometers (70 miles). Over 90 of the 100 subway stations have been adorned with paintings, tiles, rock formations, sculptures, mosaics, dioramas, installations and engravings, by over 150 artists. If you happen to visit Stockholm in the winter and it's -8°C, then I highly recommend spending a portion of your day, below ground, keeping warm, whilst exploring the breathtaking subway art. I spent several hours researching which stations to visit and mapping out the most efficient route to see some of the more impressive ones. You can save yourself some time and effort by following the itinerary below. If you buy a single journey ticket, you can travel around unlimited for 75-minutes. However, if you decide to follow the circuit below, I'd recommend buying a 24-hour pass instead. It's an ambitious itinerary to squeeze into 75-minutes. That said, if you want to be cheeky, you could buy the 75-minute ticket and ride around as long as you like, since ticket scanning is not required upon exit in Stockholm's stations. I started and ended at T-Centralen because my hotel was about a 3-minute walk away but it also turned out to be a fitting jumping off point as this was the first metro station to be built in Stockholm and was where the concept of adding subway artwork was born. Fun fact: The 'T' stands for 'tunnelbana' which is fun to say and is Swedish for 'underground' or 'subway'. 1. T-Centralen is located in the beating heart of Stockholm, in the Norrmalm borough. It is the only station where all three lines (blue, green and red) connect. T-Centralen is one of the busiest stations in the city. If you kick start your underground art tour on the Blue Line, then you will see the floral patterns painted on the lower level. They were designed to create a sense of soothing calm for commuters. The upper level exhibits blue silhouette patterns of workers and was painted to honor those who built the station. 2. From there, I took the Blue Line east to Kungsträdgårdsgatan station. This station showcased artifacts from the 17th-century Makalös Palace which formerly stood above ground at this very site. It was designed to resemble an archaeological dig, but, personally, it reminded me of Alice in Wonderland. At this stop, you will be at the deepest station in Stockholm - 34 meters below sea level. 3. Kungsträdgårdsgatan station is at the end of the Blue Line, so I hopped back on the same line, heading west, and went two stops to Rådhuset. I felt more like I was exploring a sandstone grotto rather than a subway station. 4. I then carried on along the Blue Line, towards Akalla, to Solna Centrum or the depths of hell, as I would describe it. The artwork here, painted by Anders Aberg and Karl Olov Bjork, depicts the depopulation and destruction of the environment in Sweden in the 1970s. 5. I reversed here, still on the Blue Line, and backtracked one stop to Västra Skogen where I changed to a train headed towards Hjulsta. I went two stops and exited at Solana Strand. This station's theme was 'The Heaven of Cube'. 6. I got back on the Blue Line train headed to Hjulsta and went to nearly the end of the line. Tensta was a very cute station. It felt a bit like exploring a cartoon zoo. There were sculpted penguins set into the walls and stencil-like paintings of various animals, including a walrus and an elephant. 7. From here, I headed back down the Blue Line, south to Fridhemsplan. I didn't find this station to be quite as impressive as the others, but I needed to transfer from the Blue to Green line here anyway, so it was necessary to visit regardless. Whilst there, I figured I might as well grab a few snaps. 8. At Fridhemsplan, I bid farewell to the Blue Line, swapped over the Green Line and headed west one stop to Thorildsplan. This station was the only one I visited that was outside. It was a good one, but I found it a little difficult to photograph. The tiled art at the this station displayed characters from Super Mario, Pacman and Space Invaders. 9. I then took the Green Line in the reverse direction (you can take any train other than the one headed towards Hässelby Strand) to head east to Odenplan. This is the only stop where the art work was not in the metro station. Instead, it was located in the brand new commuter rail station, which only opened in July 2017. It's a bit of a walk, but it's well worth it. 'Life Line' by David Swenson uses 32 neon tubes stretching over 400 meters to symbolize his son’s pulse at birth. 10. I then took the Green Line back to T-Centralen where I changed over to the Red Line. I followed this all the way north, to the end of the line and alighted at Mörby Centrum. The folded metal sculptures by the escalators and the ceiling display different colors depending on the angle of the viewer. 11. I jumped back on the Red Line, south, to Tekniska Högskolan where Lennart Mörk’s paintings, figures and sculptures, including this dodecahedron, represented the four elements – fire, air, water and earth – as well as the universe and technological advances. 12. My final stop was Stadion, one more stop south on the Red Line. Stadion was filled with bright designs and sculptures to commemorate the Stockholm Olympics that took place in 1912. The station was filled with all the colors of the rainbow. It was a cheerful end to my subway art tour despite not finding a pot of gold which could fund the remainder of my time in Stockholm. Just two quick stops further on the Red Line had me back at T-Centralen, where I finally emerged from the under world, with some great memories and hundreds of photos! #stockholm #sweden #metro #subway #tunnelbana #tcentralen #kungsträdgårdsgatan #rådhuset #solnacentrum #solnastrand #tensta #fridhemsplan #thorildsplan #odenplan #mörbycentrum #tekniskahögskolan #stadion

  • birthday weekend in cyprus

    Last minute, I decided that a birthday weekend away was in order. I went on Skyscanner, utilized the 'Everywhere' destination option, selected an affordable flight to a city I had never been to and convinced a friend to join me. Just like that, I was off to Paphos. Paphos (AKA Pafos), on the southwest coast of the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, is a city of contrasts. Here, the mountains meet the sea and old meets new. The heritage is awash with Greek mythology and the land with ancient ruins, but all the amenities of modern tourism exist. Paphos consists of two separate areas. Ktima, the 'Old Town', which is actually quite new as it underwent a renovation prior to the acceptance of the European Capital of Culture title, in 2017. And Kato Paphos, where the waterfront is lined with pubs showing English Premiere League matches, chain restaurants, souvenir shops, luxury hotels, UNESCO-protected archaeological wonders and medieval fortresses. The divergences don't start at city level. Cyprus, as a country, is also divided. A Greek coup in 1974 led to Turkish invasion, which resulted in about forty percent of the north part of the island being occupied by Turkish military to this day. The rest is ruled by a Greek Cypriot government and is a recognized member of the European Union. The two areas are physically split by over a hundred miles of barbed wire and a UN buffer zone. Neither war nor diplomacy have been able to mend this country and Cyprus continues to be one of the most heavily militarized parts of the world. I stayed at the Almyra Hotel, next to Paphos Harbor and Paphos Castle. The castle, originally a Byzantine fort, was built to protect the harbor. Over the years, the purpose of this structure changed from a fortress to a prison to a warehouse for salt. It now serves as the backdrop at the Paphos Aphrodite Festival, occurring each August/September. North of the castle is the Coastal Broadwalk, a paved footway along the coast that passes by the Archaeological Park, beaches, a lighthouse, resorts and a neighborhood that looks like it could be in the tropical edition of Desperate Housewives. Although not shown on Google Maps, the coastal route dead ended, so we cut through the Elysium Hotel to get to the Tombs of the Kings. Contrary to the name, no kings were buried here. The name comes from the magnificence of the tombs, not their contents. The Tomb of Kings is a UNESCO World Heritage Site where archaeological excavations have revealed underground, ancient tombs, carved out of rock, dating back to the 4th century BC. There was something about celebrating my birthday surrounded by ancient relics that made me feel slightly better about aging. After walking about 16,000 steps (according to my iPhone's Health app), we decided to cab it into Old Town and get our grub on! We spent a good deal of time at Noir, on the corner of Kennedy Square, where the tapas, wine and chat with our friendly Bulgarian waiter was enjoyable. It then started absolutely downpouring, so we moved inside and waited out the storm before bopping around to other bars/restaurants. The food in Cyprus is delicious! Greek, Turkish and Middle Eastern influences combine to make one heck of a cuisine. Meze plates are served everywhere, veggies are fresh, olive oil is produced locally, the souvla (meat grilled over charcoal) is the king of meat dishes and halloumi is abundant. If you want a typical Cypriot meal, head to Hondros Taverna, You won't be disappointed. The tasty dishes, rich culture, friendly people, low crime, well-developed roads and mild weather make Cyprus a popular place to visit year-round. Given that Cyprus has an average of 3,000 sunny hours per year and receives only about 14-16 inches of rain annually, we were particularly unlucky in our time there. The night we arrived there was an extreme thunder and lightning storm, which was actually brilliant. Rain was predicted for the whole of our second day, although we got away with only about half the day being wet. Finally, the morning of our last day, we experienced that perfect weather people always talk about in association with Cyprus. Regardless of the weather, it was still nice to get out of London and celebrate my birthday in a new part of the world! Know Before You Go: Carob syrup is produced locally and is the “black gold” of the island Cyprus is known for its natural cosmetics, including handmade soaps All taxis around Paphos were a flat rate of €8 The Euro is the currency and most places are cash only The wall plugs are the same as used in the UK #Cyprus #Paphos #Pafos #Turkey #Greece #Mediterranean #Carob #UNESCOWorldHeritageSite #TombofKings #Mythology

  • talented alpine parrots

    Franz Josef glacier is located on the West Coast of New Zealand. It is known as Kā Roimata o Hinehukatere or Tears of the Avalanche Girl. According to Maori legend, Avalanche Girl lost her lover when he fell to his death during a hike. The devastated girl's many tears formed the glacier. I'd be willing to wager that this tale isn't true, but one thing is for sure, Franz Josef Glacier is an icy phenomenon that offers a feeling of other-worldliness and wonderment that I have not experienced anywhere else. The morning of the guided ice tour, we got an early start. We started off by getting outfitted (jacket, boots and equipment) for the four hour trek. Naturally, they did not have boots that fit me. Apparently, not many children do this hike. The solution was to have me layer pairs of socks until the boots were snugger. Have you ever tried to hike, for four hours, on ice, with seven pairs of socks on, in boots that are still too big? No? You don't say. After the gear situation was sorted, as best as possible, we were driven to the Franz Josef car park. From there, the glacier looked deceivingly close. However, it was actually about a 40 minute walk. Lucky for us, it started to rain just as the walk commenced. As we approached the face of the glacier, an enormous chunk of ice crumbled. The guide didn't flinch, but the rest of the group was a little spooked. We weren't going to let a little avalanche stop us though. Onwards we went. No turning back. The hike was challenging, especially with ill-fitting gear, but having the opportunity to slide down crevasses, explore ice caves/tunnels, navigate tight squeezes and meet an alpine parrot (who knew how to unzip backpacks and steal hikers' lunches) made it all worthwhile! #newzealand #franzjosef #glacier #ice #hike #alpineparrot

  • braving hurricane felix

    Labor Day in the United States is an annual holiday celebrating the contributions that American workers have made to the strength, prosperity and well-being of the nation. My friend and I decided that we'd honor all our many professional achievements by popping over to Ambergris Caye, Belize for a laid back weekend getaway. At least that's what was initially intended... Ambergris Caye welcomed us with sunny skies and perfect temperatures, even though we arrived late in the day. The next morning, we were abruptly awoken by power drills and jackhammers that sounded like they were IN our hotel room. I went to the window and flung open the curtains, expecting to see sunshine and the ocean. Instead, all I saw was plywood. After stepping out of the hotel, we learned that there was a hurricane headed directly towards Belize. It was hard to image since it was absolutely gorgeous out. Feeling invincible, we carried on with our vacation and didn't pay much attention to the impending storm. Most of that day was spent diving in the Blue Hole (...with sharks. Eeek!). The following morning, we learned that Hurricane Felix had been upgraded to a Category 5. Things began to get a bit hectic. Everything had been bolted/tied down or boarded up. The locals withdrew their life savings from the bank, leaving the ATM machines barren. And lines had formed from the docks, all the way down the beach, as people evacuated via water taxis, to the mainland. It was decision time. The way we saw it, we could either leave with everyone else, cutting our trip short, or we could take our chances and use this opportunity to buy ourselves a few extra days of holiday. At the time, it seemed like a no-brainer. Ahh, to be young and naive. We called our bosses and explained our (embellished) excuses for missing more work. The next call was to American Airlines to switch our flights. This turned out to be easier than anticiapted. They were happy to have two more seats available and even changed our flights for free - we later found out why. Once all the logistics had been sorted, we decided to make the most of it. We essentially had the island to ourselves! It was like a Corona commercial, perfectly peaceful. We spent the remainder of the day pool hopping from one empty resort to the next. Once the sun set, it began to get a bit eerie. The ocean water receded, birds flew in circles and the mosquitoes came out in full force. We reconsidered our decision to face the storm for about five minutes...Until we saw a sign for Hurricane Felix happy hour specials. On September 4th, Felix made landfall just south of the border, between Nicaragua and Honduras. We had survived Hurricane Felix! Well, 'got lucky' was probably a more accurate phrase. Just as people started to inhabit our island again, it was time for us to depart. We arrived at the airport and got in line to receive our new boarding passes. The person at the ticket counter took one look at my new itinerary and actually called her co-workers over to all have a laugh. I had no idea what all the giggles were about until she handed me a STACK of boarding passes. My new flight pattern was Ambergris Caye to Belize City, Belize City to Miami, Miami to San Francisco, I had to spend the night in San Francisco and then fly from San Francisco to Los Angeles, and then finally, from Los Angeles to San Diego. (So that you can put this into perspective, my initial flight was Belize City to Dallas and then Dallas to San Diego). 28 hours later, I was home and still not regretting my decision to brave Hurricane Felix one bit! #belize #ambergriscaye #centralamerica #hurricanefelix

  • elephant attack

    Sabi Sand is a privately owned game reserve adjacent to Kruger National Park, in South Africa. The unfenced border between the reserve and the park allows wildlife to roam freely. The benefit of visiting Sabi Sand instead of Kruger is that it's not as protected and you are allowed to off-road, getting you even closer to the animals. We stayed at Nkorho Bush Lodge, which was lovely and offered us a true safari experience. I would certainly recommend it. With the accommodation came all meals and two guided, 4x4, open vehicle game drives per day. To get there, we flew into Nelspruit and had a car service come collect us. It's a three hour journey from the airport. We arrived in the afternoon, in time for our first game drive. On this excursion, we were lucky enough to see all of the "Big Five" (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros). Additionally, we saw giraffes, hippos, zebras, warthogs and millions of antelope. As the sun began to set, we pulled over for a "sundowner." While enjoying a glass of wine, we had some visitors. A parade of elephants (including some babies) decided to migrate past us, stopping for a drink along the way. I'm a bit embarrassed to admit this, but I used to think that elephants used their trunks like straws, sucking up water. I'm certain that you smart people already know this, but they don't. They scoop the water into their mouths, using their trunk. Seems like a lot more work, if you ask me. Someone should tell them. Suddenly, our guide feverishly started packing up all of our belongings. He said, "I hear a leopard. Let's go find him." My friend and I looked at each other, with doubtful expressions. “I hear a leopard?” Is this guy for real? What is he, the safari whisperer? Turns out he was. We drove for a few minutes, only to come across a magnificent male leopard. We watched him meander around for a while, until it started to get dark. As we began our drive back to the lodge, we happened to run into our elephant friends once again. Only they were not as friendly this time around. It turns out that elephants have poor night vision, and because they had their young with them, they became very protective. They surrounded our open-top Jeep and began trumpeting and hitting their trunks on the ground. They were literally only about a foot away from us. The guide instructed us not to take photos, as the flash would agitate them. My friend jumped on my lap and, although I was also terrified, I couldn't help but laugh, nervously. The leader of the herd was getting more and more aggressive. Luckily we had a tracker and a guide who knew what they were doing. They yelled at the elephant a few times and then finally flashed a light quickly into its eyes. All the while, they had a rifle aimed directly at it. After what seemed like an eternity, the elephants started to retreat. They gave us just enough room to squeeze our Jeep through. We zoomed off and spent the remainder of the drive trying not to eat about a billion bugs. Since there were no windows on our vehicle, we were essentially a human windshield. We were covered in bug guts. Eventually, we arrived safely back at Nkorho, but not without a great story! #sabisand #krugernationalpark #southafrica #africa #safari #elephantattack

  • victoria falls murder

    Victoria Falls (aka The Smoke That Thunders) is a waterfall that stradles the borders of Zambia and Zimbabwe. It is the second largest waterfall, by width and height, rivaled only by Iguazu Falls in South America. It's worth seeing Victoria Falls from both sides (Zambia and Zimbabwe) as each provides unique views and opportunities. The trip started off by visiting the Zambian side. If you ever go you MUST do a Livingstone Island Tour. Here you have the opportunity to walk along the top of the falls and swim dangerously close to edge, in the Devil's Pool. After playing around in Zambia for a few days, we crossed overland into Zimbabwe. It was as seamless and easy as any border crossing could be. The entrance to Victoria Falls is immediately after you enter the country and the city is super walkable (although you might meet some warthogs along the side of the road). We checked into our hotel (Rainbow Hotel - I know, I know, but it was slim pickings so close to Christmas) and went straight to the Falls. On this side, you can dangle your feet over the edge. You get sprayed by the mist and the views/photo ops are stunning. After we got our fill of waterfalls, we walked to the Victoria Falls Hotel for high tea. Sitting on the terrace, we had beautiful views of the falls' mist, while we enjoyed our tea, snacks and cocktails. After a brief but powerful rain storm, we decided to head back to our hotel to dry off before getting another drink. The door to our room stuck a little, so I had to somewhat aggressively kicked it open (with my tiny, but mighty, feet). In doing so, I overturned and smooshed a frog that had apparently snuck in the gap between the ground and the bottom of the door. In my haste to get dry clothes on, I didn't even notice the frog. I just kept on walking into the room, unaware. It was not until my friend pointed it out to me that I turned around and saw that I had murdered a frog in cold blood. We later drank a bottle of wine called 'Splattered Toad' in Kermit's honor. #victoriafalls #africa #zimbabwe #waterfalls #tips #zambia

  • cage diving with(out) great whites

    It was the eve of Christmas, in 2012. My friend Lindsay and I had just arrived into Cape Town, South Africa, full of excitement and wonderment! After two amazing weeks of safari and visiting Victoria Falls, we were looking forward to transitioning from the wilderness portion of the trip to the city bit! The next day was Christmas so not many establishments were open, We decided to make it a beach day. We headed over to Clifton Beach. The sand was white, the water blue and the people gorgeous! I’m pretty sure we even spotted Jesus himself, sunning himself in the buff. Merry Christmas to us! After sufficiently frying our bodies (the ozone is severely depleted in South Africa), we headed back to the hotel to clean up and enjoy a few happy hour cocktails. We then decided to head down to the V&A Waterfront and see if anything was open. It turns out several places were. We found two spots at the bar, at Ferryman’s Tavern, and parked ourselves there for the rest of the night. We somehow forgot to eat dinner, but we did manage to taste a lot of that South African wine! At some point, we must have found our way back to the hotel, because I was awoken at 2am, when the phone rang. I was still fully dressed (shoes on even) and passed out, face down, on top of the covers. Our transportation had arrived and was downstairs waiting for us. Silly us, we had booked our shark diving adventure for Boxing Day and then got too drunk to remember. We managed to drag ourselves out of bed, gather a few necessities and make it downstairs in a nominal amount of time. We then squished into a tiny car, with 4 other passengers, and embarked on a 100 mile drive to Gansbaai. The carsickness coupled with a raging hangover was less than ideal, especially at the wee hours of the morning. About 2.5 hours later we finally arrived at the crew house for Sharklady Cage Diving Adventures. We were fed a welcome breakfast (none of which I could stomach). We then signed our lives away, after a short briefing and a safety video. I made at least two trips to the bathroom, where I was violently ill, during the video. We then walked to Kleinbaai Harbour and took a boat out to Shark Alley. The boat ride was actually making me feel a bit better, with the wind in my face and all. However, it only lasted about 15 minutes. Once we arrived at Shark Alley, the engine was turned off and the cage was dropped into the water. The staff began chumming the waters while we were each outfitted with wetsuits, booties and goggles. Lindsay and I were the first volunteers for going in the cage. The water was absolutely frigid and my equipment was far too big, so water kept bubbling up inside my wetsuit and creeping behind my goggles. The cage had four compartments and was partly above water, so a diving license was not required. Basically, there were two bars inside the cage that ran horizontally. One was up top, that you held on to with your hands and the other was at the bottom, where you tucked your toes underneath so that you could hold yourself underwater. Whenever you needed to breathe, you could simply pop up and get some air. Being five feet tall was not helpful in the cage contraption. I was unable to reach the bottom bar. As a result, my legs were wiggling around within my section of the cage. I didn’t really know what to do with my limbs and I was nervous that my feet might slip in between the bars just as a shark came along from behind me, which made me feel a little uneasy/anxious. Luckily (or rather, unluckily) we never really saw any sharks. One fin passed by but it wasn’t nearly as exciting as I anticipated. All other sharks that came nearby our boat were only visible from the viewing deck on board. After being in the cage, hoping to see some sharks, for what seemed like an hour, I had had enough. I was thoroughly frozen, unable to stop my legs from squirming around and still massively hungover. I did not want to be in there any longer and was decidedly unhappy. Just as they let me out of the cage, I felt another wave of nausea come on. I ran to the bow of the boat and was ill over the railing. There was a six-year-old girl who was nearby and happened to be a witness. Unfortunately, my sickness caused a chain reaction and made the poor girl also get ill. She then started crying, which made me feel even worse (if that was possible). The combination of early morning wake-up, hangover, carsickness, freezing cold water, lack of sharks, ill-fitting equipment, not fitting in the cage and making a small child puke did not make for a very nice Boxing Day. I’d like a re-do please! #greatwhitessharks #cagediving #southafrica #capetown #gansbaaii #africa

  • blurred lines

    It was a lovely Friday morning in October when I headed to the San Francisco airport at 4:30am, for a 6am flight to Los Angeles. It was the first of the three flights that I was taking to get into Fort Myers, Florida. Luckily, I had the good fortune of being upgraded to First Class (thanks, United). I boarded the plane early, put my bag and my tennis racket in the overhead compartment, sat down in my window seat and promptly closed my eyes. I must have fallen asleep immediately because I was startled when I was nudged. There was a man standing over me, asking if the tennis racket in the compartment above was mine. I was sleepy and a bit out of it, so nothing registered immediately. It was probably only seconds, but seemed like minutes before I realized that when asked a question, it's commonplace to provide an answer. I finally came to and told the nice man that the racket was in fact mine. He asked if he could move it to lay across the top of his bag, so he didn't break the strings. How considerate! Of course my answer was yes. He then sat down in the seat next to me. All I really wanted to do was sleep. It was 5:30am, I had already been up for hours and I had a long day of travel ahead of me. As I closed my eyes again, it occurred to me that the thoughtful man looked vaguely familiar, but I couldn't put my finger on it. I drifted off to sleep again. The last thing I remember was hearing the guy next to me order a vodka. I woke up just as we were about to land. The flight attendant was asking the guy next to me for his autograph. He was definitely some sort of celebrity, but I still had no idea who he was. Once we touched down and the seat belt sign was no longer illuminated, the guy seated next to me stood up to retrieve his bag. He handed me my tennis racket and smiled before taking his own bag down. At that moment, I realized who he was...Robin Thicke! Vodka at 5:30am? No wonder his lines are blurred!! #robinthicke #celebrity #united #losangeles #sanfrancisco #firstclass #upgrade #usa #unitedstates

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