a thousand hills and a million smiles
Updated: Oct 1
For many, the association with Rwanda is still the horrific genocide of 1994, a 100-day mass slaughter in which Hutu extremists killed an estimated 800,000 people, mostly Tutsis. The scars of that tragedy remain deeply etched into the country's society, yet Rwanda has found a way to rebuild, unify, develop and move forward. The resilience of its people, and their efforts to forge a shared future in the decades since, is nothing short of remarkable.
Beyond its painful history, however, lies a country of extraordinary beauty, warmth and wonder. Known as the land of a thousand hills and a million smiles, Rwanda is a place of rolling mountains and welcoming people who leave you with memories that last long after the holiday ends.
Slightly larger than half of the Netherlands, Rwanda's compact size, relatively well-developed infrastructure and extraordinary mix of volcanoes, jungles, lakes and wildlife make it an ideal country for a road trip.
I designed the journey, booked all the accommodations and then scoured Reddit and TripAdvisor reviews until I found a company to provide a driver and help arrange the necessary permits. Edison, director, founder and owner of Bamboo Ecotours, was incredibly helpful during the planning stages.
I specifically requested Herbert as our driver, and I'm so glad I did! He was knowledgeable, friendly, professional, punctual and spoke excellent English. He also sneakily coordinated things behind the scenes, often without us realizing it - from sorting out logistics and anticipating when we might be hungry to altering our stops ahead of time and making sure everything ran smoothly. We always felt we were in capable hands. If you're planning a similar trip, I'd definitely recommend reaching out to this team. And if Herbert is available, request him!
With the logistics sorted, the route mapped out and Herbert at the wheel, my parents and I were ready to discover Rwanda one bumpy road at a time. From monkey encounters, seasickness-inducing boat rides and game drives across the savannah, the next two weeks promised a little bit of everything.
The journey began and ended in Kigali, with stops at Nyungwe National Park, Lake Kivu, Volcanoes National Park, Lake Ruhondo and Akagera National Park.
Quick Links
KIGALI
Kigali International Airport is Rwanda's primary international gateway, located approximately seven miles from the capital. Chances are that this is where your Rwandan adventure will begin and end too.
Getting There:
I took RwandAir because it was the only airline offering direct flights to and from London at the time of my trip. My experience wasn't particularly positive, so if you have the option of flying with another carrier, I'd recommend doing your research before booking. The fact that I had four seats to myself because the entire plane was nearly empty was probably telling. On the plus side, I had plenty of room to stretch out!
First Impressions:
Kigali was safe, clean and remarkably free of litter, although the city was undergoing plenty of construction during our visit, which meant it was also incredibly dusty. And hilly. Very hilly. I quickly realized where Rwanda earned the first part of its nickname. The city was also chock-full of motorbikes, and getting around meant battling one traffic jam after another.
Accommodations:
We stayed at The Nest Hotel on the frontend and Home Free Hotel by Signature for one night at the end of the trip. Neither would be at the top of my recommendation list, although both had their positives.
The Nest was a cute property with plenty of charm, but we experienced regular power outages, and the locks on at least two of the rooms were faulty. One unexpected perk? My mom and I each received a complimentary 30-minute massage from a blind masseuse!
Our second hotel was, frankly, pretty crappy. However, its location in Kimihurura, an upscale neighborhood in Kigali's Gasabo District, was worth noting. If you're looking for somewhere to stay in the city, I'd suggest exploring this area.
Things to Do:
The Kigali Genocide Memorial: Although harrowing and difficult, this place of remembrance was incredibly well done and was an absolute must-see. It was a sobering and powerful experience that provided important context for understanding Rwanda's history while promoting reconciliation and peace through education. There was no official entrance fee, but donations were expected (to be paid by cash or credit card). Audio tours were also available for an additional cost. Photos were not allowed inside.
Presidential Palace (AKA Rwanda Art Museum): You can probably skip this one. Our taxi driver didn't even know where it was, which should have been our first clue! Entrance was $10 per person, and the most interesting part for us was the remnants of the plane crash in the backyard. On 6th April 1994, a plane carrying Rwandan President Juvénal Habyarimana was shot down as it prepared to land in Kigali, which was a trigger for the genocide.
Places to Dine:
Five to Five Restaurant: A good option for lunch.
Biryogo Car Free Food Street: A lively food street in a predominantly Muslim area, so alcohol and pork weren't served. Bring cash, as many vendors don't accept cards. Be prepared for some enthusiastic attention from vendors, particularly if you're visibly a tourist.
Lilly Fine Dining: Located on the top floor of one of the tallest buildings in Kigali's Kimihurura neighborhood, the restaurant offered views across the city. The food was yummy, and the decor featured local artists showcasing Rwandan culture and creativity.
Fire & Stone Pizza Company: A pizza spot with a cute courtyard that worked well for lunch.
NYUNGWE NATIONAL PARK
After a weekend in Kigali - and a year's worth of planning - we finally met Herbert! He picked us up on Monday morning, loaded the Land Cruiser with all our belongings (thankfully, we were traveling light - eye roll) and got our road trip underway.
We hit some serious Monday-morning traffic as we made our way out of Kigali and headed toward Nyungwe (pronounced new-wooong-way). It was rush hour, but it was also the first day back at school after the summer break, so the roads were especially chaotic.
It took us about five hours to reach Nyungwe in southwestern Rwanda, with the scenery changing quite dramatically along the way.
We lunched in the park, where a cheeky L’Hoest’s mountain monkey helped itself to our leftover French fries, before we ventured onto the famous canopy bridges suspended high above the rainforest.
Canopy Walk:
I had imagined a leisurely stroll through the forest. Instead, we embarked on a roughly two-and-a-half-hour hike involving considerably more uphill and downhill walking than I had anticipated. Apparently canopy walk is a more attractive way of saying jungle hike with suspension bridges.
We hired a porter to carry our bags and my mom ($10 plus tip) and set off along the Igishigishigi Trail (say that ten times fast - or even once). We crossed three canopy bridges before taking the Umuyove Trail back, where Herbert was waiting to collect us.
The bridges were impressively high, and my dad, naturally, decided that the appropriate response was to jump up and down on them to make the rest of us bounce. And people wonder where I get my mischievousness from.
Accommodation:
Nyungwe Top View Hill Hotel was a 35-minute drive from the end of the canopy excursion, but it was already dark by the time we arrived. The website promised panoramic views of the surrounding forest, tea plantations and distant volcanoes, but all we got was darkness and stars, which, to be fair, was still pretty magical.
We were up at 3:15am the following morning for our chimpanzee adventure, when it was still very much nighttime. Thankfully the hotel catered to chimp trekkers and allowed us to pre-order breakfast to eat at any time between 4 and 9am. They also packed lunches for us to take along.
We left the hotel at 5am (still dark) for the hour-and-a-half drive to Cyamudongo Forest, a 19-square-kilometer forest that is separate from, but technically part of, Nyungwe National Park.
Chimpanzee Trekking:
The trek began with a briefing, during which we were told there was approximately a 50% chance of finding the chimpanzees. We were given walking sticks and the option to hire a porter, which we promptly took. Our porter, Red, cost $10 plus a substantial tip that was worth every penny.
At 6:45am, we began our trek, hoping to spot the chimps in one of Africa's oldest mountain forests. The trail was dry, initially offering a manageable mix of gentle ups and downs. As we got closer to the chimpanzees, however, the terrain became considerably steeper, and the dry leaves made certain sections slippery. Fortunately, Red was there to steady and support us when needed.
Exactly one hour into the hike, we were close. We paused and waited for instructions from the trackers, anticipation building as we prepared to meet our elusive neighbors.
Success! We ended up seeing between 12 and 14 chimps, including one baby and two juveniles. Most were busy grooming one another, accompanied by funny clicking noises that made it sound as though they were having an animated conversation in Zulu.
As the hour progressed, the chimpanzees became increasingly playful, giving us even more of a show.
After a little more than an hour (shhh, we may have stretched our allotted viewing time slightly), we began the one-hour trek back, mostly uphill. We then climbed into the vehicle for another two-and-a-half-hour drive to Kibuye, on Lake Kivu, where a boat ride awaited us.
We ate our packed lunches in the vehicle along the way, because this was the day of eating wherever we could squeeze it in.
LAKE KIVU
Our first introduction to beautiful Lake Kivu was a calm two-and-a-half-hour boat ride from Kibuye, located on the eastern shore roughly midway up the lake. We were the only people out on the water, which made the experience wonderfully peaceful and remote.
We saw swimming cows, colorful birds, a whole slew of bats and a vervet monkey even jumped aboard to say hello.
Accommodation:
After another two hours of driving north, we finally arrived at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel in Gisenyi, after what felt like the longest day of our lives.
The hotel itself was lovely, but, once again, we experienced nightly power outages. And then there was the mosquito that terrorized me for two nights, sucking my blood like a tiny vampire while apparently leaving everyone else alone. Rude.
We spent three nights here and mainly used the downtime to relax and enjoy the hotel, including an hour-long massage that cost just $40.
Gisenyi Boat Rides & The DRC:
We did a few boat-related activities, but nothing too strenuous.
Well, actually, I lie.
The northern end of the lake was far windier and bumpier than in Kibuye. It looked more like the sea than a lake and it did end up being strenuous.
Our first trip out took three guys to battle the waves and get the speedboat into the water.
It then took another three men to gas it up, replace the flooded battery and unsuccessfully attempt to keep the inside of the boat dry. The waves were relentless.
Getting in the bobbing boat was a whole other adventure, particularly with my parents' old joints. Once we were finally aboard, the waves just kept coming. We were bashed around, soaked through and wondering if we'd capsize.
We did, however, get about as close as you could possibly get to the Democratic Republic of Congo, without actually crossing the border.
Later that day, we visited the border by land, which was very much open despite what we had been led to believe from international news coverage.
The following day, we took another boat ride, this time on an old wooden vessel to the Nyamyumba volcanic hot springs.
It was another seasickness-inducing one-hour boat ride, because apparently, we hadn't suffered enough the day before.
Entrance to the springs cost 10,000 RWF each (~$7), and the experience was about as authentic as it gets. There were no other tourists in sight, just us and the locals. We stayed for about 45 minutes before heading back to our hotel.
VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
It was a two-hour drive from Lake Kivu to the Volcanoes National Park area, which has the most developed tourism infrastructure in Rwanda. This is, by far, the main event, where you'll hike through the bamboo forests to meet mountain gorillas and trek to see the golden monkeys.
Museums & Cultural Experiences:
Our first stop was The Ellen DeGeneres Campus for a crash course in gorilla fun facts, a cool 360° video and a surprisingly lifelike VR experience. A $25-per-person "donation" was suggested - but seemed pretty mandatory - but it was worth it. We spent about an hour and a half there.
We then drove about five minutes to Gorilla Guardians Village, also known as the Iby'Iwacu Cultural Village, a community-run cultural tourism attraction in Kinigi, Musanze District.
We were greeted by an energetic, and slightly terrifying, welcome performance, which Herbert had secretly arranged for us.
We made fire, practiced archery, milled sorghum seeds and learned how remedies were crafted from indigenous plants and grasses. We were also taught how to make banana beer and got an introduction to traditional medicine before the real fun began.
We explored a replica of an ancient Rwandan king's palace and took part in a mock wedding where we were dressed as king, queen and princess.
With her head covered by a traditional cloth, my mom was lifted onto a wooden bridal litter and carried off by local villagers - lord knows where they all appeared from. She was brought to the hut where my dad was waiting.
The ceremony really came alive with a symbolic procession of gifts, traditional drumming and celebratory singing and dancing.
The final stop was considerably less traditional, when they accepted credit cards for the $35-per-person "contribution" that had become rather less optional. Still, it was worth the money for the hour and a half of throwing my parents headfirst into the culture.
Accommodation:
The hotel we chose, Kinigi Cottage, was one of my favorites of the trip. It was a cozy, highly-rated country house with only four rooms and a resident pet cat.
The food was excellent and served family-style, and luckily we had some interesting fellow guests to get to know. We actually ran into some of them at various other tourist destinations throughout the rest of the trip.
The location was also incredibly convenient, just about 10 minutes from the museums and the morning briefings for the various monkey activities.
Trekking:
The gorillas are undoubtedly the star attraction, so I dedicated an entire blog post to the experience. You can find more detailed information about gorilla trekking here.
Golden monkey trekking starts in a similar fashion. You'll be collected from your lodge early in the morning and driven past the location of the annual gorilla naming ceremony to the Kinigi park headquarters.
There, you'll go through security, have your permits checked, enjoy a hot beverage, use the facilities and, at 7am, be split into groups of up to 19 and assigned a guide and a monkey troop.
Fidele was our guide, and we were assigned the Kabatwa Group - the first golden monkey troop ever monitored and studied in Rwanda. The group numbered between 80 and 100 members and is typically tracked around the foothills of Mount Sabyinyo.
Because golden monkeys spend most of their time in the bamboo zone at the base of the volcanoes, the hike is generally less strenuous than gorilla trekking. Trackers locate them by looking for discarded bamboo shoots and leaves, among other signs.
Following the briefing, we drove about 35-minutes, picked up our walking sticks and hired our porter, Patrick. At 8:25am, we began what was supposed to be an easy 10-minute walk through farmland to the wall surrounding Volcanoes National Park. We then climbed the stairs over the wall and entered the park.
The actual trek inside the park took about six minutes.
We were instructed to leave our bags and walking sticks in a pile and put on face masks in preparation for meeting the golden monkeys. The trackers, however, appeared to be having an off morning. We waited for about 40 minutes, but there were no monkeys in sight. Eventually, we gathered our belongings and continued trekking.
When we finally found them, the monkeys were a little shy, hiding in the trees and darting around at impressive speed.
We had exactly one hour to observe these ridiculously cute creatures, complete with their adorably fat cheeks, as they jumped through the trees and moved around the bamboo.
The whole experience wrapped up around 10:45am, and we were back at the Land Cruiser by 11:15. With all our luggage already packed in the vehicle, we left Volcanoes National Park behind and began the short journey to Lake Ruhondo.
LAKE RUHONDO
Lake Ruhondo, one of two twin volcanic lakes near Musanze, was peaceful and surrounded by mountains, but if I were recreating this trip, I’d admire it from afar and give it a miss entirely.
Accommodation & Food:
I was completely unaware that we'd be arriving at our hotel by water taxi until Herbert dropped us, and all our luggage, off at the Ruhondo Boating Pier. Seven minutes later, we pulled up at Ruhondo Beach Resort.
The hotel was tucked above the lake, with sweeping views of Mount Muhabura. Unfortunately, that was where the good news ended.
The hotel itself was very basic. Like, summer overnight camp but with fewer comforts.
Dinner didn't exactly redeem the experience. They had only about half the items listed on the menu, and the description for the Beef Burger was, rather confusingly, a "crispy fried chicken leg." There was a limited beer selection and exactly one glass of wine left. And despite being the only patrons in the restaurant, our food took an hour and 15 minutes to arrive.
Meanwhile, right next door was Meza Malonga, probably the fanciest restaurant in all of Rwanda. Open only Thursday through Sunday from 11am to 5pm, reservations were required at least a month in advance, with a 100% deposit needed to secure your table. The eight-course tasting menu took four hours and cost $245 per person.
The internet still seems to think the restaurant is in Kigali, although it definitely moved to Lake Ruhondo. There were only 26 TripAdvisor reviews when I visited, so I have absolutely no idea how this place managed to stay in business. But after our dinner at the resort, we would have happily traded our chicken-leg-that-was-supposed-to-be-a-burger for eight courses of pretty much anything.
Boat:
We had pre-arranged a boat ride with the hotel from 3 to 4pm. Thankfully, this one delivered exactly what you want from a lake excursion. It was slow, calm and serene, with none of the drama we'd experienced on Lake Kivu.
The scenery was beautiful, with the volcanic mountains rising around us, and for an hour we simply enjoyed being out on the water.
Then, just as we were finishing up, thunder and lightning rolled in, providing a suitably theatrical finale to our brief Lake Ruhondo experience.
AKAGERA
We ate a quick breakfast, hopped on the water taxi and hit the road at 8:20am. We couldn't get out of Ruhondo Beach Resort fast enough. After a checkpoint, a stop for roasted potatoes, one pee break and a minor traffic incident, we finally made it to Akagera at 4:05pm.
Accommodation:
Ihema Lodges was wonderful! The property had only five cabins, all spacious, elegant and comfortable, with large windows opening onto terraces overlooking Lake Ihema. There was no air conditioning, despite it being hotter than in other parts of Rwanda, but the fan provided did the trick. After our experience the previous night, at Lake Ruhondo, we were more than happy!
Safari - Day 1:
We organized all our safari drives through Emmanuel Twizeyimana (+250 782 035 258), who came recommended by the hotel. Emmanuel was something of a local celebrity and philanthropist in the Akagera area. He was a former professor turned independent tour provider and driver-guide, offering safari experiences, transfers and events. He also owned a local restaurant and cultural center and founded an NGO called Nyankora Kids.
Unfortunately, Emmanuel had to attend a conference with the German embassy on climate change and agriculture, so he sent two lovely people in his place: Joseph, our driver, and Aime, a guide in training.
We awoke at 5:30am, ate breakfast at 6am and began our day at 6:40am. It took 15 minutes to reach the south entrance at Akagera National Park, followed by another three kilometers to reception.
Here, we paid our park entrance fees: $450 for three people for two days, $240 for two night safaris for three people and $105 for the boat safari for three people. The park was entirely cashless, so credit cards were accepted.
Ihema Lodges had kindly provided us with a letter confirming that we were staying for more than one night, which entitled us to a $50-per-person discount on the park entrance fee (which came to $450 instead of $600). Definitely worth asking your accommodation about!
The hunt for the "Big Five" began at 7:30am. The roads were dusty dirt tracks, and the southern end of the park was particularly dry. As Akagera is a protected national park, off-roading wasn't allowed, so we had to stick to the designated routes.
Our first encounter was a shy bushbuck, and we were told it was lucky that it hadn't immediately run away. We took this as an omen of good things to come.
We saw plenty of antelope, including roan, waterbuck, topi and impala. Aime joked that the distinctive M-shaped markings on the impalas' behinds were basically a McDonald's sign for lions. Nature's very own fast-food branding.
Of the Big Five, we spotted African buffalo, elephants and white rhinos.
There were also a few giraffes and zebras knocking about, although they mostly kept themselves hidden.
We stopped for lunch from noon until 1pm before heading out for our boat safari on Lake Ihema from 3-4pm.
The boat safari was the highlight of our 12.5-hour day! It was windy and bumpy, but absolutely fantastic.
We expected to see hippos and Nile crocodiles in the water, but spotting them on land was an unexpected bonus. We also saw elephants and rhinos, which was a very lucky surprise that made the whole excursion even more special.
Our night safari was operated by park rangers rather than our private guides and ran from approximately 5:30 to 8pm. We spotted plenty of nocturnal hares, along with a white-tailed mongoose and a genet, but that was about it. It was also far too dark to photograph them properly, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
Despite the relatively limited sightings, being out in the park after dark was incredibly peaceful. The sky was enormous and filled with bright stars, with virtually no light pollution apart from the occasional firefly. Crickets and birds provided the soundtrack.
Joseph collected us afterward and drove us back to the lodge, where we ordered dinner and were tucked up in bed by 10pm, ready to do it all again the following morning.
Safari - Day 2:
For the first time on the entire trip, we made it through a night without losing power. Luxury! We slept well, ate an early breakfast and were ready for our 6:35am pickup.
It had rained overnight, which made the roads considerably less dusty. Today's adventure took us to the northern part of the park, where the landscape was more mountainous and lush.
We were also incredibly lucky with our sightings, as the animals seemed determined to put on a show right beside our vehicle.
It was a day of sibling rivalry. First up were two buffalo brothers having a disagreement.
And then things escalated to a brother-and-sister lion battle. Apparently, family drama isn't exclusive to humans.
It was also a day of mommas and babies. We saw white rhinos, zebras, hippos, lions, buffalo and baboons with their young, which was a lovely reminder that there's more to a safari than the Big Five.
We also spotted some other fascinating creatures, including a feathery owl, a monitor lizard (a relative of the Komodo dragon) and a lone warthog.
After buying lunch in the park, Joseph dropped us back at the lodge for an hour or so of rest before our final night drive.
En route to the evening safari, Joseph pulled over at the side of the road, where a local woman appeared with a card machine. We paid Emmanuel $650 for his services: $280 per day for two days of game drives and $90 for the transfer to Kigali the following morning.
The only particularly noteworthy sighting on our final night drive was a bushbaby, which was a tiny primate with enormous eyes that hopped around like a miniature kangaroo. It was a ridiculously cute and fitting little finale to our Rwandan safari adventures.
The following morning, we faced a three-hour drive back to Kigali, where we spent one final night and another full day before the adventure came to an end.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:
GETTING AROUND & LOGISTICS
Tour Operator: Bamboo Ecotours was our choice for the driver and help arranging permits. Edison was incredibly helpful during the planning process, and Herbert was a fantastic driver throughout the trip.
Edison (initial planning): mailto: info@bambooecotours.com | +256 779 499670
Herbert (driver): +256 702 408300
Ride Sharing in Kigali: I found Yego to be pretty terrible. I'd recommend trying the Move by Volkswagen app instead. Make sure you select a car rather than a moto, and choose your preferred payment method when booking.
Kigali Traffic: Kigali traffic can be brutal. On a Friday at 6:30pm, my journey to the airport took 45 minutes to cover approximately 4.7 miles. My parents made the same journey in just 11 minutes at 7am. Timing really is everything, so give yourself enough of it.
Road Conditions & Driving Culture: Expect a mixture of paved roads, gravel tracks, dirt roads and cobbled streets. The bumpier stretches provide what Herbert endearingly called free African massage. Outside Kigali, and sometimes within the city itself, daily life remains very traditional, and the roads are shared with pedestrians. People walk everywhere, at all hours, often carrying surprisingly large loads on their heads or transporting goods on bicycles. Cars, trucks, motorbikes, carts and animals all share the space, and somehow everyone seems to coexist remarkably well, with surprisingly little honking. Still, don't let the apparent harmony fool you: stay alert and drive cautiously, because you're rarely alone on the road!
Mobile Payments and Cash: Mobile money (MoMo Pay) was widely used by locals, including in remote areas, but don't assume you'll be able to pay for everything with a card. We needed cash for some taxis, lots of tips, porters, trackers, hot springs and boat trips, as well as at smaller food markets. Ask locally about the best payment options, and carry some Rwandan francs and/or US dollars.
Currency: Whenever possible, ask for prices in both Rwandan francs and US dollars. We encountered places that quoted or accepted both, and US dollars were useful for tips.
Plugs: Rwanda generally uses European-style plugs, but almost every hotel we stayed at accommodated UK, European and US plugs in some form. One hotel had only UK-style sockets. I'd still pack a universal adapter rather than rely on luck.
MOBILE SERVICE
I had full bars on my phone but couldn't get anything to work on my regular service so I downloaded an eSIM through HolaFly, which worked great. It cost £98 for 14 days (~£7/day). You can use code H4YAIDAYM1UP for 10% off, subject to the provider's current terms.
LOCAL CUSTOMS & CULTURE
Umuganda: Rwanda holds a nationwide community-service day on the last Saturday of each month, generally from 8-11am. Participation requirements and exemptions can vary. It's one of the initiatives associated with Rwanda's emphasis on community participation and public cleanliness.
Greetings and Manners: We found Rwandans to be generally soft-spoken. Before meals, it was common for staff to bring hot towels or a bucket of water for washing our hands.
Tipping: We generally tipped around 5–10% at restaurants, or rounded up the bill. For guides, drivers and porters, ask about customary amounts and budget accordingly.
Timekeeping: Things don't always run to the minute, so build a little flexibility into your itinerary. On the other hand, Herbert was consistently punctual, which we greatly appreciated.
Language: Many people we encountered spoke at least some English, and English-language signs were common. Accents varied, so occasionally we had to listen carefully.
The Smiles: People could look quite serious or tough from a distance, but a wave often elicited the biggest, whitest smile. It was one of my favorite little details of the trip.
Muzungu! We attracted a lot of attention. Outside hotels and tourist destinations, we saw relatively few other white visitors, and children and adults alike sometimes called out “Muzungu!” (a term commonly used in the region for a foreigner, often someone perceived as white).
Family Titles: Our guides regularly referred to my parents as “Mommy” and “Daddy,” which was rather endearing.
Women at Work: We saw women working across a wide range of roles, including as police officers, construction workers, porters, guides and street cleaners. Many wore skirts or dresses while working, which I found particularly striking.
SAFETY, HEALTH & REGULATIONS
Safety: We generally felt safe throughout our trip, both when exploring Kigali and traveling between destinations. As anywhere, it's worth staying aware of your surroundings, taking sensible precautions and following local guidance. We also felt reassured on the water, where life jackets were required on all our boat excursions.
Malaria Prevention: I took doxycycline after seeking advice from a travel clinic. I started the course two days before departure, took it daily during the trip and continued for four weeks afterward, as directed. I experienced vivid dreams and poor sleep, although I also received quite a few mosquito bites. Antimalarial medication isn't one-size-fits-all, so speak to a travel-health professional well before departure about the right precautions for your itinerary.
Camouflage and Single-Use Plastics: I came across online claims that both camouflage clothing and single-use plastics were prohibited in Rwanda. During our trip, I saw people wearing camouflage and plastic water bottles being provided in many places. Akagera appeared to have restrictions on single-use plastics, although enforcement seemed inconsistent. Check current regulations before packing, especially for national parks.
WEATHER & PACKING
Temperatures: We experienced temperatures of approximately 65–87°F during our trip, although conditions varied considerably by location and altitude. Kigali, the rainforest, the volcanic highlands and Akagera felt like very different climates, so pack layers.
Dust: Game drives and some of the dirt roads were extremely dusty, particularly in dry weather. Sunglasses and something to cover your nose and mouth may come in handy.
Rain: Weather can change quickly, especially around the lakes and mountains. Bring a lightweight waterproof layer, even if the forecast looks promising.
KIGALI AIRPORT INFO
There was a vehicle and body-security checkpoint just before the airport entrance. I was instructed to leave my bags in the car, go through a metal detector, show my boarding pass and sanitize my hands before I could enter the terminal. Inside the airport, signs for the boarding gates weren't always easy to find. The escalators appeared to operate on sensors, but they did work! Passport control came before security, and both were surprisingly quiet when we passed through. I was also the only person in the airport lounge when I first arrived.
Sherry, so glad you and your parents got to enjoy this latest adventure. As I was reading, I was thinking "no": to (1) the hikes; (2) the bridge bouncing (especially with your Dad) and (3) especially the rough waters (sea sick prone am I). So, I got to enjoy it all through your wonderful story telling and photos and didn't have to endure any of the perils! Love reading and seeing all your photos of your adventures.❤️ Ann, David and Allison