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- put my bag where?
It was Christmas morning in Myanmar and I was flying from Yangon to Thandwe, to spend a few days in Ngapali Beach. I got to the airport and went through the usual process: checked in, got my boarding pass, went through security and then sat at the gate. I didn't check my bag because I just had a backpack. Eventually, my flight was called for boarding. I walked out on the tarmack, to the plane and then climbed the stairs. The plane wasn't all that small, but for some reason, the overhead compartments were miniscule. There was absolutely no way that my bag was going to fit. The flight attendant was rushing me to get out of the aisle. I asked her what I was supposed to do with my bag, but she just shooed me into my row. I then asked her if there was any way that she could have the bag checked. I couldn't tell if she was overwhelmed or there was a language barrier, but I could sense that she was getting frustrated with me. Finally she says to me, "just put bag on lap." Ummmmm, really? Okay. I assumed once everyone was boarded, she'd come back around and check the bag, but that never happened. The good news was that the flight was only 55 mins long. #yangon #thandwe #ngapalibeach #myanmar #burma #asia #southeastasia #luggage #airmandalay
- happy pizza in cambodia
I first learned about 'happy pizza' from my neighbor on the flight from Phuket, Thailand to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. We got to talking and he showed me this video of Tony Bourdain enjoying happy pizza. Being from America, I had a hard time fathoming that this could be a real thing. I can’t just walk into restaurants and order herb-infused edibles where I come from (in most states anyway). After a morning that included an ATV tour around the Phnom Penh countryside, shooting AK-47's and visiting the Killing Fields, my friend and I were famished. We happened to walk by a spot called 'HAPPY HERB PIZZA.' Meh, why not try it? When in Phnom Penh... We walked in, sat down and ordered one large happy pizza, with pepperoni. We chowed down, leaving only one slice remaining. In hindsight, we probably should have only ordered one slice each. Live and learn. About an hour later, back at our hotel room, we learned that the pizza was in fact ‘happy.' Stage one was the giggles. The phone rang on the TV and we searched the hotel room, top to bottom, frantically looking for the ringing mobile. Once we realized, we collapsed into a fit of hysterics that left our face muscles sore. Stage two was disbelief. We truly thought that there was maybe a 15% chance that this would have any affect on us. WRONG! My friend just kept repeating “I can’t believe it’s real!” Stage three was exhaustion. We napped for about four hours, before we had to force ourselves to wake, in time for our pre-arranged booze cruise. Paranoia set in at stage four, just in time for the cruise. Everyone on the boat knew that we ate happy pizza, right? Of course they did. They had to. How could they not? Once the everlasting booze cruise finally ended, we decided to head straight to a bar. Maybe alcohol would help? After a few drinks, we were definitely still feeling funny, but the effects of the alcohol started to overpower the happiness of the pizza. We then ran into our plane mates, who initially introduced us to the concept of happy pizza. Phnom Penh is a small city. When we told them about how we spent our afternoon and they insisted on going to find another venue where happy pizza was served so that they could also partake. Round two. We really had no excuse this time. We knew it was real and we knew the effects, but the alcohol/herb combo must have clouded our judgment. At least we were smart enough to limit ourselves to only one more slice each the second time around. We woke up the next morning at 7am, packed our bags and checked out of our hotel. We had a six hour bus ride to Siem Reap to catch. We were STILL feeling ragged and definitely not functioning on all cylinders. When our bus never showed up, I started making phone calls. After several misunderstandings, unpleasant exchanges and frustration (mind you, not operating at full capacity was not helping the situation), it was determined that the bus booking hadn't officially been confirmed the night before and there were no more buses available until 2pm. Luckily the hotel let us back in our room to carry on sleeping (BIG thank you to Quay Boutique Hotel)! It was not until 1pm when we FINALLY started to feel normal again, albeit still very groggy. That bus ride was not the most pleasant part of our time in Cambodia, but we made it to Siem Reap in one piece and survived our first, second and last happy pizza adventures. #phnompenh #cambodia #southeastasia #asia #happypizza
- angkor whaaaat
Picture Disney World style crowds and heat, only this 'Magic Kingdom' is hundreds of centuries-old. Angkor Wat is located in Angkor, Cambodia's northern province of Siem Reap. These temples were built in the first half of the 12th century and took an estimated 30 years to construct. They represent one of humankind's most astonishing and enduring architectural achievements. They are probably most recognizable as the setting in parts of both "Lara Croft: Tomb Raider" and "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom." At the start of our Angkor Wat tour, it was impossible to take a picture without hundreds of random tourists unintentionally photobombing. Lines to climb the structures were exceedingly long and it was far too humid to be even remotely enjoyable. Things turned around when we moved on from Angkor Wat to Angkor Thom though. The crowd thinned and when midday struck, all the tour groups left to go eat lunch. We decided to power through and got to explore the Bayon and Baphuon Temples without any competition. We were rewarded with stunning pictures and no stress! It was the smartest thing we did all day! Angkor is truly an amazing place to visit, but can be a bit hectic. To avoid fighting your way through a mob scene, here are a few tips: 1) Do your research ahead of time - know what you want to see, how you plan to get around, etc. 2) Do the 'typical tour' in reverse order. Normally the tours start with Angkor Wat and end with Banteay Kdei/Sras Srang. 3) Bring snacks and water with you, and take advantage of masses being gone during lunch. 4) Try not to visit over Christmas/New Year's (like I did). June to October is the rainy season, but it's when the temples are at their quietest. As far as accommodations are concerned, I stayed at the Park Hyatt Siem Reap. Although it's not cheap, it is newly renovated and located on the main road, right in the middle of all of the action. Stay here and you’re in walking distance to Pub Street. Be sure to have a drink at Angkor What?! #angkorwat #angkorthom #bayon #baphuon #temples #southeastasia #cambodia #siempreap #tips
- treasure map to tranquility
This is the actual map that hotels hand out when you arrive on Big Corn Island, Nicaragua. It's hokey, not to scale and somewhat inaccurate - everything a map should be! Since it reminded us of a children's treasure map, we decided to treat it as such and go on a hunt to find every cocktail icon. To make this happen, we hired a golf cart as our mode of transportation ($25 for the first 2 hours and $5 for every hour thereafter - a bargain!). The whole island only takes about 40 minutes to drive around (going top speed - about 15 mph). Most of the roads are paved, but there are a lot of speed bumps (and they are literally building new ones every day). Apart from the speed bumps, the biggest obstacle that you will be expected to overcome is patiently waiting for crabs to cross the road. Seriously! Whenever we wanted to stop, we'd just pull over to the side of the road, park the cart, grab a Toña (a local Nicaraguan beer) and then carry on. After succeeding in finding all the bars on the islands, we spent the rest of our hours sunning ourselves on the near-empty beach. It was hot (about 84 degrees) and humid, but there was a pleasant breeze. The water was various shades of teals and blues and was completely calm, like a giant pool. It was impossible not to feel relaxed on this deserted and beautiful island! We were so tranquil and disconnected, that we didn't even know that Nicaragua experienced two big earthquakes while we were there. If you're planning a trip to the Corn Islands, you may find this link helpful. Here are some other tidbits that you may also find handy: There is a $10 entrance fee when you land in Nicaragua There is a $2 entrance AND $2 exit fee into/out of the Corn Islands Visas are not necessary for American citizens US dollars are accepted on the island; the local currency is the Cordoba Bring new bills, the banks there won't accept old/ripped US dollars Bring small bills ($1's and $5's), nobody ever has any change to give you We stayed at Paraiso Beach Hotel - basic, but cheap and centrally located Dos Millas was my favorite restaurant (cheap lobster and seaside seating) Best beach: Arenas Hotel Luggage weight limit, on the flight from Managua to Corn Islands, is 30lbs They use American electrical sockets/plugs They drive on the Right side of the road Taxis are about $1.20 (30 Cordoba) to go anywhere on the island Cabs will pick up other passengers while you're already in the car #bigcornisland #nicaragua #centralamerica #islands #tranquility #caribbeansea #tips #earthquake
- playtime with my nephews
In honor of my adorable nephew's 3 month birthday today, I thought I'd share this video from when he was only 1 month old. Happy 3 months, Baby Ethan! It's also nice to not be the shortest one in the family anymore (for now). I'll see you again soon, little one! #boston #massachusetts #usa #nephews #unitedstates
- soulcycle hates small feet
Have you heard of SoulCycle - the newest fitness phenomenon sweeping the East and West coasts of America? It seems like everyone has been talking about it lately. It's becoming almost cult-like in major US cities like New York and San Francisco. People are fighting to get into classes each week. From what I understand, SoulCycle has put a new 'spin' on indoor cycling (Get it? A new SPIN. Ha!). The classes deliver 45 minutes of fun, exciting and challenging full-body cardio exercise. "Inexplicably invigorating" people say. I couldn't actually tell you any of this from experience, however, since I am unable to participate. SoulCycle (and the cycling industry in general) seem to hate people with small feet! Discriminators! As part of the $33 experience, you rent special cycling shoes that clip into the stationary SoulCycle bikes. Of course the smallest size that SoulCycle carries is a 5 (and from what I hear they run about a half size big). I can fit into a women’s size 4, at times, but only if the shoes run small. I'm actually more likely to need a children's size 2 or 2.5. SoulCycle does allow you to use your own shoes, but the clips have to be compatible. I searched the web and had a very difficult time finding any children's road cycling shoes at all, let alone ones compatible with SoulCycle's bikes. So, I called SoulCycle. They said my two options are to try to fit into a size 5 (i.e. wear multiple pairs of socks?) or bring my own shoes with me. They didn't know where to buy such small sized cycling shoes, but suggested a bike shop or online. They did note that I am unable to ride if I don't have shoes that clip into the pedals. Just thought I'd share another example of my feet keeping me from partaking in the activities of normal sized humans. #soulcycle #tinyfeet #cycling #usa #unitedstates
- new tiny green shoes
My newest pair of tiny green shoes arrived this past weekend! The fact that they arrived was expected, however I hadn't anticipated that their arrival would be an educational experience for me. Since I am an adult, and capable of ordering my own shoes online, I am fully aware that my feet are kid-sized. What I wasn't aware of is the cognitive development level of the children who also wear this size. Since the tag (pictured above) is clearly geared towards parents, it occurred to me that children wearing this size aren't even able to read yet. I decided to consult Google on the average age of children wearing a US size 2.5 shoe. The answer, you ask? 6! SIX!! Let's just say that it's been a few decades since I was six. #pumastinygreenshoes #newshoes #usa #unitedstates
- eating my way through tel aviv
People don’t usually think of Israel as a country that will expand their culinary horizons, but the food in Tel Aviv is outstanding! Of the 90 hours I spent there, I’d wager that 70 of them were spent eating or drinking. Below are some of the places where I dined/boozed: Benedict: Open 24 hours, but I’d recommend going for brunch. Manta Ray: Beachfront dining (literally ON the beach). They are known for their seafood. You cannot, and should not, go there without getting the bread and a bunch of the mezes. It’s a good spot to go for lunch, if you get hungry whilst sunning yourself. Hilton Beach: Go for daytime cocktails and surfer gazing. This is said to be one of the best patches of sea for surfing on the Israeli coastline. The Restaurant at the Hotel Montefiore: It’s like dining in a trendy library. Be sure to order the lamb! Dallal: It’s a chic converted house with courtyards and an open-air bar in the middle of Neve Tzedek. This French-Israeli fusion food was probably the best meal I had in Tel Aviv. Vicky Christina: Tapas restaurant (Vicky) and wine bar (Christina) in a Spanish style patio where a railroad station used to be. The sangria was not very good, but everything else was. Cookies and Cream Bar: This place is a bit of a labyrinth. There is a larger area with a bar that runs the length of the entire room. If you go downstairs, there’s a more intimate, smaller bar. Despite the no smoking signs, everyone inside still smokes. The smoke was gross, but the cocktails were tasty. Radio E.P.G.B: When you enter this basement club, you’ll think you’ve just entered Eastern Berlin. A strange, dark, underground place, but the throwback hip hop music and bottle service makes it a fun place for all night drinking and dancing. NOTE: Israelis tip about 10%-15% in restaurants and cafes. They prefer tips to be in cash (Shekels). Some restaurants won't allow you to tack the tip on to the credit card bill. #food #telaviv #israel #middleeast #drinking #eating #tips
- the naive woman of the wall
After wandering around the Old City, the Jewish Quarter, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and viewing the Dome of the Rock I entered the Western Wall Plaza and took a tour of the tunnels under the wall. It turns out that there are all these hidden layers underground that have been, and are still being, excavated. The tour was remarkable and I highly recommend it. Seeing the wall underground was one thing, but seeing it above ground was incredible. I was in awe. There was so much history all around me and everything was so beautiful. I stood there for quite some time, watching people who were praying and putting notes in between the stones (they do this in the hopes of enhance their chances of their wishes materializing). Many people facing the wall were in tears, which is presumably why some refer to the wall as the "Wailing Wall.” I was snapping photos and taking it all in when I looked to my Right. I noticed a divider with women peering over the top of it (probably looking at me, now that I think back). It took only a second before I realized that I was entirely surrounded by men. It hadn't even crossed my mind that genders would be separated, but there I was, the dumb tourist, on the wrong side of the partition. I promptly turned around, walked over to the Women’s section and pretended like that mishap never occurred. After doing some research, I learned that women are not allowed to mingle nor pray with men under Orthodox Jewish law, especially at the Western Wall (which is considered to be the holiest site in Judaism). I also learned that the section of the Western Wall set aside for prayer is about 60 meters long, only 12 meters of which are reserved for women. This is a bit of controversial topic at the moment and a group of activists are beginning to protest. They call themselves the Women of the Wall. Unfortunately, some women who have attempted to pray wherever they please have encountered violence from Orthodox men or even been arrested. Luckily I made it out of the Western Wall Plaza unscathed, but I gotta tell ya…For a well-traveled women, sometimes I’m a real idiot! Below are some tips for visiting Jerusalem: The bus from Tel Aviv costs 19 Shekels and takes about 50 minutes (each way). Click here for more specifics. Wear comfy shoes with good rubber soles. You’ll be walking a lot and the stones in the Old City are slippery. Definitely take the Kotel Tunnel Tour. It was excellent! Book in advance. Taking an organized walking tour is advisable. Dress appropriately for the Western Wall (women must cover their elbows and legs). Make sure you only approach the wall on your proper gender’s side! #westernwall #israel #jerusalem #kotel #religion #middleeast
- austria, slovenia & slovakia road trip
Well-developed motorways, clear signage and Right-hand driving all allow for easy travel within Austria. A road trip here is one of the best ways to get to know the country and experience all the stunning landscapes, magnificent mountain passes, spectacular lakes and beautiful towns that Austria has to offer. One important thing to note: All Austrian motorways (autobahns) are subject to ‘toll.’ Toll in Austria refers to a motorway vignette that is displayed on the inside windshield of your vehicle. Failure to have this vignette can result in heavy, on-the-spot fines. The car rental agency provided us with our vignette, but it’s important to confirm when hiring your car. If it isn’t provided, you can easily purchase one at a gas station or post office. I think it’s something like €8.50 for 10 days. I would also recommend taking a look at this site and learning some of the street signs before you embark on your adventure. We did not, and although it was fun to try to guess what the signs meant, we were often quite wrong. We began our road trip in Vienna. My friend and I rented a car at the airport and drove into the city. It happened to be a public holiday (Whit Monday) so street parking was free, which was a nice bonus. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we hurried over to the opera house to catch the second half of Mozart’s The Magic Flute. After the opera, we headed out for some drinks at Loos and then Onyx at the Do & Co Hotel. We quickly learned that Monday nights are sleepy in Vienna. That night was stayed at the Vienna Hilton. It wasn’t the absolute best location, but we had hotel points to use and the subway system is really easy to navigate, so it all worked out. The next morning, we awoke early and headed west to Obertraun, to the World Heritage Site known as Dachstein Salzkammergut. There, we took the cable car up to the first stop and visited the ice caves (Eishöhle). The guided tour was about an hour and took us through spectacular ice formations. The chill inside the caves felt amazing compared to the stifling heat outside. After the ice caves, we drove further about 6 minutes further west to Hallstatt. There we parked and wandered around the adorable lakeside town. We had lunch at a local pizza joint and then continued on to Salzburg. We checked into the Sheraton and then walked about 15 minutes into Old Town for some grub/drinks. Salzburg has an option to park outside the city, pay a reduced parking fee and then bus into the city. For convenience sake, we just paid to park at the hotel, but I thought it was worth mentioning that this option exists. On day 3, we decided to get up early again and see all that Salzburg had to offer. We took the Mönchsberg lift to the top and then walked about 30 minutes to the Hohensalzberg Fortress, which overlooks the whole city. We then followed a walking tour from Rick Steves’ Salzburg book. After gallivanting around Salzburg most of the day, we took a quick excursion, north to Fucking, Austria so we could take some pictures with the town's sign. Back in Salzburg for the evening, we enjoyed a lovely night out. Dinner at Arthotel Blaue Gans was delicious, but also very expensive. We were surprised to find how dressed up people were in Salzburg, especially on a Tuesday evening. Day 4 of the road trip lead us to Werfen, a quaint ski town. After an unusual breakfast, we kept driving until we reached Zell am See, where we rented a motorboat and toured the beautiful lake. If I had to do it over again, I would have stopped in Werfen for a few photos ops and then had breakfast in Zell am See, as there were more options there. After the boating excursion, we made our way to Krimml Waterfalls. There, we hiked uphill to the top of the falls, it started to rain, but we were already wet from the mist, so we weren’t too bothered. I would recommend carving out about 2 hours for the waterfall hike, if you want to make it to the top. Next, we headed south towards Bled, Slovenia, via Grossglockner High Alpine Road. This famous road is only about 30 miles in length and I’m not entirely sure that it was worth going out of our way, but the hairpin turns were fun. We eventually arrived into Bled and checked into House Klasika before heading out to dinner and to watch the World Cup opening match at a local pub. The next morning had us up fairly early again. We arrived at the 3glav office for the Emerald River Adventure Tour at 8am. Luckily we were staying only about a 4 minute walk from the 3glav office, so getting there on time was no problem at all. It was a full day tour (12 hours) and was exhausting, but it was really great and the staff was so friendly and knowledgeable. The highlight was the whitewater rafting down the Soča River, with Alpin Active. It cost a bit more, but was worth every penny. At the end of the long day, we drove 40 minutes back into Austria, to Worthersee. We checked into the Barry Memle SeeHotel, which felt an awful lot like the adult camp in Dirty Dancing. Then, we headed out to catch some more World Cup action and ate a lovely, traditional Austrian dinner consisting of wienerschnitzel, potato salad and some dish with mushrooms, cream sauce and dumplings. On day 6, we slept in and got a late start. All we had to do was make it to Bratislava, Slovakia via Graz. Graz is a very cool, upscale city and was worth stopping by. We had a delicious lunch at La Enoteca. After lunch, we headed to our final destination, obtaining our first traffic violation along the way. We were going 127 km/hr in a 100 km/hr zone. It wasn’t ideal, but we just had to pay €35 to the cop and then we were on our way. Finally, we arrived in Bratislava, just in time for the World Cup matches. It was there that we ran into a bachelor party. The bachelor was a Kiwi who just recently relocated from London to San Francisco. Small world. We ended up hanging out with them and having a really fun night out. After our massive drinking session, our final morning was a bit rough. We had to get up at 6:50am in order to make it to Vienna airport, return the car and get to our flights on time. Luckily we made it, with minimal frustration. After 1,570 km (975 miles) of driving, we were happy to turn in the car in exchange for a flight where we could catch up on some sleep. Known Before You Go: Austria’s wine and drinking water is excellent, but the food is mediocre. You’ll need to pay a toll to enter and exit Slovenia. You’ll need a separate vignette for Solvenia. You can buy it at a gas station in either Austria or Slovenia. It was €15 for 7 days. Slovenian people are SUPER friendly. Be prepared to be surrounded by smokers, especially in Vienna. #austria #vienna #obertraun #halstatt #icecaves #salzburg #werfen #zellamsee #grossglocknerhighalpineroad #worthersee #graz #bled #whitewaterrafting #emeraldriver #slovenia #bratislava #slovakia #roadtrip
- pet passports are a thing
Did you know that pets are required to have passports too? I only just learned about this. My friend, who is in the process of relocating abroad, and is bringing her beloved dog with her, just informed me that this is a real thing. I guess it makes sense, but not being a pet owner myself, it's not something that I have ever really thought about. This new learning prompted many questions: Where does one obtain a pet passport? Does the dog have to go into a drugstore and have a passport photo taken? How long are pet passports valid for? With piqued intrigue, I decided to do a bit of research. It turns out there is a system, in Europe, called 'PETS' cleverly enough (Pet Travel Scheme). PETS allows animals to travel easily between member countries without undergoing quarantine. The conditions of admittance are twofold: 1) Surgically implant a microchip in your pet and 2) Get a pet passport (an official registration document that details vaccinations and other necessary veterinary treatments). The rules for bringing a pet into the USA seem to be very strict and vary by animal. If you're interested, you can read more about these rules here. It appears that there is no real standardized process for travelling with pets overseas. As specific requirements are different for each country, it is wise to request pet travel information from the local consulate/embassy of the country where you and your pet will be travelling, to ensure the pet will be granted entry. Oh, and to answer some of my silly questions from above... You get a pet passport from your vet The photo is optional and it does not have to be taken professionally Pet passports are generally valid for 2-3 years, but that can vary #pets #passports #tips #usa #unitedstates
- #towerpoppies
If you're like me, you've seen loads of pictures of the Tower of London with red flowers all around it. And, although it looks pretty, you have no idea what this is for or that the flowers aren't real. Until I went and visited the site, I had no idea that this is actually an evolving art installation. It's called "Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red." The title comes from an unknown solider's poem. The poppies are porcelain and encircle the Tower of London's famous moat. From 5th August, marking one hundred years since the the first full day of Britain's involvement in the First World War, there will be a total of 888,246 poppies "planted." One for every British military fatality during the war. #poppies #flowers #toweroflondon #london #ww1 #uk #artinstallation
- travel partnerability
Have you ever been on a trip with an incompatible traveling companion? I had one such occasion, and it was AWFUL. If you prefer not to travel solo, as I do, it's imperative to vet your travel mates in advance. I am currently reading a book called What I Was Doing While You Were Breeding. In the early pages of this book, Kristin Newman (the author) lists nine traits that make someone a good traveler. I found the list to be spot on, so I thought I'd share. 1. You are open. You say yes to whatever comes your way, whether it's shots of putrid-smelling yak-butter tea or an offer for an Albanian toe-licking. You say yes because it is the only way to really experience another place, and let it change you. 2. You venture to the places where the tourists aren't, in addition to hitting the "must-sees." If you are exclusively visiting places where busloads of Chinese are following a woman with a flag and a bullhorn, you're not doing it. 3. You are easy going about sleeping/eating/comfort issues. You don't change rooms three times, you'll take an overnight bus if you must, you can go without meat in India and without vegan soy gluten-free tempeh butter in Bolivia, and you can shut the hell up about it. 4. You are aware of your travel companions, and of not being contrary to their desires/needs/schedules more often than necessary. If you find that you want to do things differently than your companions, you happily tell them to go on without you in a way that does not sound like you're saying, "This is a test." 5. You can figure it out. How to read a map, how to order when you can't read the menu, how to find a bathroom, or a train, or a castle. 6. You know what the trip is going to cost, and can afford it. If you can't afford the trip, you don't go. Conversely, if your travel companions can't afford what you can afford, you are willing to slum it in the name of camaraderie. 7. You are aware of cultural differences, and go out of your way to blend. You don't wear booty shorts to the Western Wall on Shabbat. You do hike your bathing suit up your booty on the beach in Brazil. Basically, just be aware to show the culturally correct amount of booty. 8. You behave yourself when dealing with the local hotel clerks/train operators/tour guides etc. Whether it's for selfish gain, helping the reputation of Americans traveling abroad, or simply the spreading of good vibes, you will make nice even when faced with cultural frustrations and repeated smug "not possible"s. 9. You are able to go with the flow in a spontaneous, non-uptight way if you stumble into something amazing that will bump some plan off the day's schedule. So you missed the freakin' waterfall--you got invited to a Bahamian family's post-Christening barbecue where you danced with three generations of locals in a backyard under flower-strewn balconies. You won. Shut the hell up about the waterfalls. Before you set off on your next adventure, when considering/interviewing potential travel buddies, be sure to keep Kristin's list of distinguishing travel characteristics in mind. it may just save you from a disastrous trip. #travelcompanions #traveltraits #tips #compatibility
- speedflatmating
When I arrived in London, all wide-eyed and bushy-tailed, my housing possibilities seemed endless. Of course there were going to be heaps of lovely, available places to live in London; it’s such a massive city. Piece of cake! First things first, I started to narrow down the neighborhoods where I was interested in living and figured out where I needed to be, transit-wise. Obviously, my options dwindled slightly as I made these decisions, but I was certain there were still going to be tons of availabilities in those chosen areas. And then I started to consider the amenities that I absolutely could not live without: furnished, spacious, modern, en-suite bathroom, king-sized bed, only 1 flatmate, a guestroom, lots of closet space, washer/dryer, dishwasher, all bills included, house cleaner, etc…and all for a low monthly cost. Wooo, how could this flat hunting stuff be anything other than great fun?! I went on spareroom.co.uk and started reaching out to people. I was excited to potentially meet some new friends and get all settled in to my new life. Little did I know what I was getting myself into... Then the viewings commenced. Why are they all so old? And dirty? And weirdly laid out? And expensive? You call that a double bed? Wait, this is actually the room for rent or just the closet? This doesn’t look a thing like the online photos. Is this the same place? Where is the shower? There’s only a bathtub? Do you honestly believe that this place is a 5-minute walk from the train station? It’s easily 2 miles away! Oh, I get to live with two couples plus three other people as well? Some of these people don’t speak English? One of them is 60-years-old? This should be interesting. The deposit is how much? Oh, you need an answer today? How many people did you say are interested in this place? And they’re willing to pay this amount? For this space? Wait, there’s actually a chance you might not choose me, should I decide that this would be an acceptable living possibility? Surely they can’t all be THIS bad…So I started thinking, am I being too picky? I’m 33; I don’t want to live in a fraternity house, with eight flatmates. I could compromise on the house cleaner perhaps. I don’t absolutely neeeeeeed my own bathroom. I do, however, need a double bed. I’m not six. Maybe if I pay a bit more, I can weed out the crappy places? Urgh. For two solid weeks, I viewed places just about every evening, after work. And by ‘viewed places’ I mean that I interviewed for rooms. Who knew that finding a suitable room was more competitive than looking for new employment? And then I heard about speedflatmating. It’s an organization that holds regularly-scheduled flatmate-finding parties in various areas around London. The idea is that you get the chance to meet loads of potential new flatmates, in one evening, in an informal bar setting, while not having to waste time viewing each flat individually. Since I want to live in SW London, particularly in Clapham Junction, I selected the Clapham location, which was held, weekly, at a bar called Gigalum. Quite honestly, I was dreading attending this event. It took some serious mental convincing, but I went in the end because nothing else was working. I figured at the very least I’d maybe meet someone cool or have a fun story to tell. Also, it occurred to me that at least if it was miserable, everyone was there for the same reason, so we could all commiserate together. Upon arrival, I had to select either an ‘I need a room’ or an ‘I have a room’ sticker. I then had to fill out my name, budget and area where I wanted to live on said sticker. Once that red tape was sorted, the next order of business was getting a drink. I bee-lined to the bar and ordered the largest glass of Sauvignon Blanc that they would serve me (yes, you order wine by size in the UK). I can’t actually find the words to describe the initial awkwardness of everyone standing around, sipping in their drinks and sizing each other up. But apart from the general awkwardness, the main problem was that 97% of people had ‘I need a room’ stickers of the 100 or so people who turned up for the event. I only saw approximately three people wearing ‘I have a room’ stickers. And not one of the people who had a room to let were in the Clapham Junction area. Fail. I don’t think I’ll be going back anytime soon, but at least I can now cross speedflatmating off my to-do list. It’s back to viewing individual flats for me, I’m afraid. Wish me luck! #flathunting #speedflatmating #london #uk #residence
- new year's eve in madrid
I recently returned from a short trip to Madrid, which spanned over New Year's Eve and New Year's Day. Madrid is Spain’s capital as well as the political, economic and cultural center of Spain. The city is easily navigable by foot, places a huge emphasis on the fine arts and boasts beautiful architecture as well as a vibrant nightlife. Madrid has also undergone a recent gastronomic revolution. I spent three full days wandering around, exploring and eating. Must see landmarks include the Royal Palace of Madrid, Retiro Park, the Reina Sofia Museum (which houses Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí collections), Mercado de San Miguel, Plaza de Cibeles, Plaza Sol and Plaza Mayor. As for eating, I’ll limit myself to three recommendations, so I don't bore you... 1) The Guinness Book of Records calls Casa Botin the world's oldest restaurant and Ernest Hemingway called it the best. I don’t necessarily agree with the latter, but the space is quaint and the food edible. If you want to say you dined at the oldest restaurant in the world, then it’s worth a visit. If you don’t care about that claim to fame, than skip it. 2) Ten Con Ten is a casual option, with a posh clientele. I would recommend it as a lunch option. The wine list was plentiful and the starters were delicious. Be sure to get the risotto (which is more like an orzo) with black truffles and also the goat cheese salad with fresh herbs and fruit over thinly sliced zucchini. 3) Do not leave Madrid without dining at Sala de Despiece. It’s far from fancy, but might be the best food I ate in 2014. They don’t take reservations, so go earlier than the typical Spanish dinnertime. The cooks are in white lab coats and orders are taken via iPad. As the dishes are ready, they shout out your name and pass you trays of food over the counter. You may or may not get a seat but the staff is friendly and will do what they can to help you find a spot. They will also help walk you through the menu. The food is innovative and imaginative. The quality of the ingredients is top-notch. Most dishes are smaller and meant for sharing. The carpaccio with crushed tomato, truffles sauce and sea salt is absolutely to die for. The lomo de vaca is another must. It’s a cube of raw meat, served on salt blocks, with a side of raspberries and peppers. They cook the meat in front of you, with a crème brulee torch. You should definitely order the goat cheese as well. It’s grilled until it has a golden crust and then served with wafers and a touch of molasses. 4) New Year’s eve was spent at Casa Corolo. For €60, we had a five-course meal, which included unlimited wine/cava and grapes at midnight. People in Spain typically celebrate New Year’s with their families, at home, so the restaurant wasn’t too packed, which was actually quite nice. At the stroke of midnight, Spaniards have a tradition of eating 12 grapes, one in each of the first 12 seconds of the New Year. This symbolizes good luck for each of the upcoming 12 months. It’s not as easy as you might imagine, let me tell you. I think I only ate about six before the 12 seconds was up. And I was starting to look a bit like a chipmunk as I couldn’t chew them fast enough (and the grapes had seeds). If I were a superstitious woman, I’d be a little worried about July through December this year. #madrid #spain #europe #newyear39seve #tips #restaurants
- budapest baths
I had the pleasure of visiting Budapest, Hungary at the end of December. Many people don’t know that it’s actually one city, made up of Buda and Pest, which are divided by the Danube River. It’s a beautiful place, with lots of history and charm. December is a particularly lovely time of year to visit Budapest because of the Christmas markets. I don’t want to spend too much time delving into all the sights that I saw and all the mulled wine that I drank however. I’d like to focus on the geothermal baths in this post instead. I must admit that I had received mixed reviews on the baths when asking people for Budapest suggestions, so I did not go into it with high expectations. Regardless, I felt it was an experience that I needed to encounter. There are several bathhouses in Budapest, but my friend and I decided on the Szechenyi Thermal Baths based purely on TripAdvisor rankings. I had done a bit of research in advance, but there were several price options and it was all a bit daunting, as you can see here (note the prices listed here are actually Hungarian Forint, even though it’s indicated that they are in US Dollars and are using the Great British Pound sign). We arrived at the ticket window, and there were only a few people ahead of us in line. A young girl was working behind the counter. When it was my turn to buy my ticket, I asked her if she could walk me through the options/prices. She looked up at me, pressed a button on the cash register, pointed to the price and then promptly went back to looking at her mobile. I asked a few more questions, to which she did not even acknowledge me. After I realized that was all the help I was going to get, I waved my credit card around until she looked up from her phone and took it from me. The young girl went ahead and charged me for two, without asking. She handed us our bracelets and then went straight back to Facebooking. We had no idea what to do next or where to go. When we asked, the girl just pointed to a sign (that was in Hungarian). I said, ‘Thank you! You’ve been incredibly helpful!” and walked away. We eventually navigated our way downstairs. The hallways were cold and sterile. I haven’t actually even been to mental institute to draw a comparison, but they reminded me of Girl Interrupted. The next order of business was hiring towels. We walked down the echoing corridor until we stumbled upon the towel rental counter. It was 1,400 Hungarian Fortin for two towels, with an 8,900 deposit. It had to be paid in cash. The deposit would be refunded after we stood in line for 30 minutes and returned the towels though, so that was good news. After the entrance fees and the towel rentals were sorted, we changed into our swimsuits and walked outside to the pool. We really wished we had flip-flops. Imagine showering in your dormitory bathroom at university, without shower shoes. Urgh. It was absolutely freezing outside. We could not get in the steamy pool fast enough. However, the first pool we selected wasn’t actually that warm. We then dipped into the second pool, which was a bit higher of a temperature. As long as you kept your whole body underwater, to avoid the wind, it was warm enough. A far cry from hot though. After what seemed like an hour, but was probably only five minutes, I was bored and beginning to prune. I noticed a group of old men playing chess and drinking beer. Had I known we could drink in there, it might have been a game changer. Instead, I decided to people watch, to pass the time. It was mostly old, fat people floating around. Apparently the geothermal springs have healing properties. I can neither confirm nor deny this. After my boredom got the best of me, I convinced my friend to make a dash for the building across the way, to see if anything more interesting was going on in there. Inside, we found many more pools that were accompanied by a gag-worthy, sulfuricy piss smell. In Goldilocks fashion, we dipped our toes into each pool. “This one’s too cold. This one is too stinky." Etc, etc. After failing to find any pools that were actually hot, we ended up speaking with a local and asking where the sizzling hot pools were. He grabbed us each, quite harshly, by the elbows and led us to a room with a sign that read “Gőzkamra” above the door (which literally translates into steam chamber). He then opened the door and shoved us in. It was at least one million degrees in there and I couldn’t breathe. I immediately turned around and came back out. He said, “What too hot? I thought you wanted hot?” That was about as much as we could take. We hustled back to the locker room, returned our towels, got our deposit back, tried not to touch anything as we got changed and got the heck out of dodge. I wouldn't recommend not visiting the baths if you visit Budapest, but consider yourself warned. #budapest #hungary #europe #thermalbaths #tips #geothermal
- 6 things i've learned in my first 6 months in london
Since I’m coming up on my six month anniversary in London, I thought it would be fun to share six things I have learned in my time here thus far, in no particular order... 1. Hot drinks are my new best friend: Arguably the UK is not the coldest place on earth, but after living in California the past nine years I’m finding the temperature less than agreeable. Although I’ve never been a coffee drinker, I would occasionally consume the odd cup of tea when I lived in the States. Now that I'm living in England, it has become an absolute necessity to have a ‘cuppa’ to warm me up after my commute into the office. Sometimes I find that I hold a mug of hot tea for no other reason than to thaw my frozen hands. I always knew that tea was a universal drink over here, but now I understand one of the reasons why. 2. Posted train times are merely a suggestion: It goes without saying that the public transport infrastructure in Britain is more advanced than in the US. However, there is still room for improvement as far as punctuality is concerned. My morning train to work is scheduled to depart at 8:16am. Many days the train leaves around 8:13am and I end up missing it, which leaves me standing in the cold until the 8:28am train decides to turn up. Although there are handy digital displays all over London, indicating how many minutes you have to wait until the next train/bus, I wouldn’t recommend placing any bets on these 'scheduled' times. (And yes, 'Cockfosters' still makes me chuckle). 3. Detective skills are necessary for navigating country selection drop-down menus: When booking an airline ticket or purchasing something online, I always end up thinking ‘Oh god, here we go again’. Do I look under ‘U’ for ‘United Kingdom’ or ‘UK’? Do I scroll to the ‘E’ section and look for ‘England’? Maybe I am supposed to search for ‘Great Britain’? Perhaps it’s simply ‘Britain’? One time I even saw ‘Kingdom, United’ as an option. It’s probably easier to just move. 4. There are lots of pets…in pubs: Not only do most English pubs have an animal in the name on the outside of the building (Fox and Hounds, Square Pig, White Horse, Red Lion, etc.), more often than not you’ll also find furry creatures inside the venues as well. The local pub across the street from where I live has a resident cat that walks along the bar top and struts around like he owns the joint. There are no laws preventing pets from being in establishments where food is served; it’s up to the discretion of the owner to decide. Clearly the health codes here are not as stringent as they are in the US (as evidenced here). 5. Paint could dry in the time it takes to do a load of laundry: The ‘normal’ cycle on my washing machine takes anywhere from 1:40 to 2:30, depending on the temperature and setting. This ridiculous amount of time to complete a single wash cycle is normal over here. There is an ‘express’ setting, but even that takes nearly an hour to complete. And quicker times often result in less clean laundry. I’ve looked this up on the web and everyone seem to be in agreement that the slower washing machines are more environmentally friendly. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that running your washing machine for over two hours is counter-intuitive as far as the environment is concerned, with increased water and electricity usage. 6. A payments revolution is underway in Britain: London is well on its way to being a cashless society with many non-cash methods of payment already in place. You’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant, pub, shop, grocery store or café that doesn’t accept a chip and pin card. Many have even implemented contactless forms of payment now (where you simply wave your card over a sensor for a secure payment that requires no additional verification). If you’re looking to jump on a bus, tube, tram or train in London, with a pocket full of pence, you’re in for a disappointment as cash is no longer a valid form of payment. TFL (Transport for London) is also pushing to make card acceptance mandatory in London’s black cabs within the next few years. Could this be the end of cash in the UK? I personally hope so. I despise carrying around all the one and two pound coins. When I become queen, they will be the first thing to go! #london #unitedkingdom #relocation #hotdrinks #transportation #transit #country #pets #laundry #cashlesssociety
- how do you say 'i'll never ski again' in italian?
In mid-February, I spent the better part of a week in a quaint town in the Italian Alps, called Sauze d’Oulx. It was a charming little mountain village with cobbled streets, family-run hotels, delicious restaurants and small ski/rental shops. Sauze d’Oulx is located just an hour’s drive from Turin and was the venue for the freestyle skiing events during the 2006 Winter Olympic Games. One of the best things about Sauze d’Oulx was its affordability. For a European ski destination, at peak time, it was incredibly inexpensive. A large (delicious) pizza cost me around €6.50, I had glasses of wine for €2.50 a piece and après-ski cocktails often had price tags of no more than €4. Ski rentals were 15€ and my lift ticket was a mere €33 for the day. Here’s where you’ll note that I stated the last costs were ‘for the day’ and not ‘per day’. It turned out that one day of skiing was enough for me. Prior to Sauze d’Oulx, I hadn’t been on the slopes in almost nine years. And, although all the conditions were near perfect in the Italian Alps, complete with fresh powder and no chairlift lines, I just couldn’t manage to enjoy myself. My first run of the day accidentally ended up being on a black trail, which was challenging and tiring. The powder was piled up over a foot high in some areas, requiring more tactical skiing. This was coupled with limited visibility, which was made worse by the fact that I didn’t have goggles to wear as the snow fell. I tried wearing sunglasses, but they kept fogging up. Although, none of these inconveniences were ideal, I probably could have dealt with them if I didn’t also have the worst rental ski boots of all times. To say my boots were ill-fitted would be a massive understatement. They were a bit big in length, causing my feet to slide around whenever I turned, but they were also far too tight around my ankles. At lunchtime, I had to unbuckle them to try to stop the throbbing. I was all set to call it day after lunch, but my friend insisted that I join him for ‘one more run’. Famous last words. Several trails were actually closed for too much snow (have you ever heard of such a thing?), so we ended up having to take a few alternate routes. This ‘one more run’ ended up taking the better part of three hours. By the time I got midway down the final path, my ankles were in such agony that I actually sat down and cried. I considered taking my skies off and walking down the rest of the mountain, but I came to my senses and realized that didn’t solve my problem and would only take longer. I thought about faking an actual injury so that a snowmobile would have to come collect me. I also even contemplated paying a more capable, male skier to ski down the rest of the slope with me on his back. I was desperate! Ultimately, I came to the conclusion that I needed to suck it up and ski down the rest of the trail, even if I sobbed and cursed the whole way (which is exactly what I did)! When I finally got my boots and skies off, the first thing I did was walk across the street to the rental shop to return my kit. I couldn't get rid of the gear fast enough! There was absolutely zero chance I was going to put myself through another day of skiing (AKA torture). I decided then and there that this would be the end of skiing for me in Italy or anywhere else. I think it’s time I grow up and leave this sport to the kids! #italy #ski #italianalps #sauzed39oulx #europe #snow
- smoking not prohibited
For the better part of 2002 I was living in Sydney, Australia. During my time there, my aunt and uncle went to Singapore on business and invited me to meet them. Having never been to Asia, I jumped at the opportunity. I immediately went down to my local STA Travel store and inquired about flight prices. STA found me a dirt cheap flight on Egypt Air and I booked it on the spot. The direct, red-eye from Sydney to Singapore spanned about 4,000 miles and lasted nearly 8.5 hours. My aisle seat was in the very last row of the plane, neighboring the lavatories. I remember sitting next to a very nice Australian man, who was all too excited to tell me all about his upcoming trip. After the in-flight safety demonstration (which was conducted in Egyptian Arabic), I put my headphones on, as a polite indication to my seatmate that I wasn’t interested in chit chatting, and drifted off to sleep. I had been asleep just a short while when the smell of cigarette smoke woke me. I opened my eyes and there were tens of people crowded around my seat, taking drags from their cigarettes. It was 2002, how on earth was smoking still allowed on planes? I was half asleep, dazed and massively confused, so I asked my Aussie buddy beside me what was going on. He informed me that smoking was permitted on this flight but that the designated smoking area was limited to the last two rows of the plane. Anyone was free to smoke, but they had to get up from their seat and come stand next to me in order to do so. My lucky day! I can still, to this day, remember how nauseating that flight was. I had my shirt pulled up, covering my nose and mouth, in a failed attempt to curb the level of smoke inhalation. But every few minutes a new batch of smokers would make their way to the back of the plane to blow more smoke in my face. The plane's poor air circulation didn’t help things, my throat was scratchy and my eyes burned. Between the side effects of the second-hand smoke and the constant commotion by my seat, I was unable to sleep a wink. By the time we landed, I was exhausted and I smelled like an ashtray. That was 8.5 hours of my life I would definitely like back! On my return flight to Sydney, I thought I’d outsmart Egypt Air, arrive early at Singapore airport and ask the nice lady at ticket counter for a seat in the front of the plane. After about an hour of whispers behind the desk and issues with an incorrect birthdate on my passport (that’s a whole other story), I walked away with a shiny new seat, nearer the front. I sat and waited for boarding to commence, very pleased with myself for being so clever. The plane was a 777 with a 2-5-2 seat configuration. I had seat B (an aisle in one of the two seater areas). I got to my row just in time to see an Ivan Drago look-a-like, with a massive scorpion tattoo on his forearm, shoving a Barbie doll into a backpack. Terrified, I timidly smiled at him as I sat down. It didn't take long to before I learned that this man spoke zero English. Again, I put my headphones on, closed my eyes, quickly plead to God that this guy wouldn’t kill me and attempted to sleep. Just as I was dozing off, I got a very strong whiff of cologne. What now?! Why wouldn’t people just let me sleep? The five grown men, in the middle five seats, directly to my right, were testing each other’s new duty free fragrance purchases. I honestly don’t know if the smoke on the first flight or the cologne on this flight was worse. But the good news was that I didn’t have to decide because the murderer next to me was also conveniently a smoker. The best of both worlds! Since he could not communicate with me using words, he would tap my arm every time he wanted to get up to go to the back of the plane for his nicotine fix, which was at least once an hour. Each time he returned to his seat, he brought that lovely smoke scent back with him. I am now acutely aware why my flight was so inexpensive!!! *I did do a search and found that Egypt Air banned smoking on all its flights in June 2003. Although, they still seem to get quite a few complaints about cabin crew and pilots smoking. #flight #singapore #sydney #australia #eygptair #smoking
- balearic bliss: your guide to a mellower ibiza
Since I have now been to Ibiza, Spain three times in the past ten months, I thought I’d impart all of the knowledge I’ve gained on you folks. Ibiza is a Balearic Island in the Mediterranean Sea. It’s best known for its all-night raving, at enormous nightclubs, where famous DJ’s spin Balearic tunes during the summer months. What most people don’t know is that there is also a surprisingly peaceful side to Ibiza – including excellent restaurants, yoga retreats, quiet villages and sandy coves. All three of my trips have been on the mellower/more luxurious side. I’m afraid I cannot provide recommendations for clubs and parties, but if you’re looking for a list of suggestions for what to see/do/eat and where to stay, here’s a list of all my favorites so far: Stay As long as you avoid Ibiza Town and San Antonio (between May and early October), you should be all set. The first time I visited, I stayed at a lovely hotel in Santa Eulali called Hotel Aquas de Ibiza. The hotel was beautiful, the service impeccable and the spa was tranquil. The only odd part is that the bathrooms are basically in the hotel rooms, separated only by a glass wall. So if you’re going with a new partner or a friend, it could be awkward. If you’ve got a big group, I’d recommend renting a villa. I recently stayed at this one in Talamanca. Do If you’re looking for a typical beach day, I’d suggest heading to Las Salinas. If you decide to upgrade and pay for sunbeds you could lounge at The Jockey Club. If you'd prefer to spend the day at a proper beach club, I’d highly recommend Amante Beach Club. You have to book far in advance though, as they are often hired out for private parties or fully booked up. Another daytime option is go to Formentera, which is another Balearic Island about an hour and half away from Ibiza by boat. You can ferry there or you can hire a boat and go on your own. If you decide to go private, I’d recommend this company. They were professional, on time and incredibly accommodating. Walk around the ramparts of the Old Town – which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage City in 1999. Be sure to wear sensible shoes as the streets are narrow, winding, steep and cobbled. Eat Quite possibly my favorite restaurant on the island is La Brasa. It’s in the Old Town, so you can easily walk around afterward and find a bar or two to frequent. I have been there twice now and would definitely go back. Make a reservation in advance and sit in the garden. It’s absolutely stunning complete with crystal chandeliers, hanging from trees. Be sure to order the cava sangria! Sa Punta in Talamanca was excellent as well! You’re right on the sea and the servers were most helpful. If you make it over to Formentera, you must eat lunch at Juan y Andrea. It’s a beautiful restaurant right on the beach. No footwear required. The seafood is freshly caught. Be careful though, the rosé goes down far too easily! Ibiza Rocks at Pikes Hotel is a very unique place. It’s an eccentric venue that resembles a mix of rock ‘n’ roll, Beetlejuice and hedonism. It was made famous as the set for Wham’s ‘Club Tropicana’ video. It's a boutique hotel, but I only ate and partied. It’s worth checking out, even if you decide not to eat or stay there.




















