The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, as Luxembourg is formally known, is one of the smallest countries in the world. This pint-sized nation is roughly the same size as Dorset in the UK/slightly smaller than Rhode Island in the US. It’s not only small in landmass, it’s also one of the least populous countries in Europe, with only about 580k people. This landlocked country is surrounded by Germany, France and Brussels. Nearly half of Luxembourg’s workforce commutes in from one of these countries. They probably do this because Luxembourgers benefit from the most generous vacation allowances in the world (32 days of paid holiday per year plus national holidays) and work amongst the least (average of 32 hours/week). Still, somehow, Luxembourg manages to be the second richest country in the world. Luxembourg's historic fortifications and old quarter makes it a very pleasant place to wander around and the locals are very friendly and helpful, but a weekend is enough time to get a taste for the place and see everything there is to see. The star tourist attraction in Luxembourg is the Bock Casemates. They are a system of solid rock tunnels carved into a cliff-top with cannons and look-out points throughout. The city’s defense was provided by this network of 23kms of casemates. After the fortress was dismantled in 1867, the casemates were partially destroyed and reduced to 17km which now belong to UNESCO World Heritage list. Throughout the years, the casemates have housed everything from soldiers to kitchens and bakeries to slaughterhouses. And during WWI and WWII they sheltered 35,000 locals. After visiting the tunnels, if you're feeling peckish/parched, walk just a short distance to the cozy Konrad Cafe & Bar, tucked away on the cobbled rue du Nord. If you're still feeling hungry, you're in luck because the Grand Duchy is a city fit for foodies. It has the most Michelin stars per capita of any city in the world. Although I did not have time to partake in all of them, the places I did go, listed below, were well worth a visit: Um Plateau - Go for dinner. It's got a great modern, chic ambiance, a very friendly wait staff and an interesting menu. Kathy’s Deli & Cupcakes - If you fancy a western-style breakfast, head to Kathy's. If you're going on a weekend, you'll need a reservation. I had scrambled eggs/guacamole/bacon/tomatoes on a baguette. It was fresh and delicious! I didn't have the cupcakes, but they looked yummy! Chiggeri - I didn't eat here, but this place has made the Guinness Book of World Records for having the largest wine list. #luxembourg #UNESCOworldheritagesites #europe

Having never been to Monaco before, I jumped at the opportunity to go to the Rolex Monte-Carlo Masters, even though, my schedule only allowed for me to spend one day there. I flew in early early morning and headed back that same evening. The Monte-Carlo Masters is an annual tennis tournament for male professional players, played on clay courts nestled between the French Riviera and mountains. It is arguably one of the most beautiful tennis tournament set-ups in the world. The day I went was the first round of tournament action. I had main court tickets where I got to watch Kei Nishikori come from behind to beat Tomas Berdych. Next, I saw Djokovic crush Lajovic in two sets. Post tennis, I had just enough time to have a wander around Monte-Carlo and see some super cars, the famous Hotel de Paris, the notorious Casino Monte-Carlo and the Port Hercule. I can now see why Monaco's mild climate, scenery, tax haven status and gambling facilities have contributed to the principality's status as a tourist destination and recreation center for the rich. #montecarlo #monaco #europe #casino #rolex #tennis #masters

Montenegro only became its own independent country in 2006, making it the second newest state in Europe. This young nation is tiny in both land mass (roughly the size of America’s Connecticut) and population (less than 630k citizens). Though small, Montenegro has a huge array of natural and man-made wonders that lie within its 5,333 sq miles. Arriving into Montenegro should have been a lot easier than it actually was. The intended route was London to Vienna to Podgorica. However, a delay out of Heathrow resulted in a missed connection in Vienna, which then had us rerouted through Istanbul which was certainly not the most direct route (see map below) and tacked on about six extra hours of travel. The configuration of the airplane from Vienna to Istanbul was your typical single aisle, with three rows of seats on either side - ABC on the right; DEF on the left. Not rocket science. However, the flight attendant must have confused our frustration for stupidity because as we boarded she instructed us to 'go straight and then turn right at row 10.' Super helpful. My friend I finally made it to Podgorica by night fall, but our suitcases, which we were forced to gate check in London, were not as lucky. After filing claims for the missing baggage, the Hertz car rental kiosk was closing. We had to beg them to stay open a few more minutes to rent us our car so we could drive an hour and a half to our hotel in Ulcinj. It also turned out that Montenegro was outside my world mobile phone plan, so when trying to sort out the car and confirm the hotel would still be open, I racked up £90 in fees, within one hour of being in Montenegro. We were not off to a great start. By the time we got to the hotel it was around 11pm. We were staying at Hotel Palata Venezia, a former king’s palace, at the top of a fortress, so there were quite a few stairs to climb, in the dark. Fortuitously, we had no luggage to carry. We woke up fresh on Saturday morning, determined to not let the previous day's travel nightmares affect the trip ahead of us, put our same clothes on from the day before and enjoyed a lovely feast of a breakfast, which was included in the £54 nightly rate. The views from the hotel were amazing and the weather was perfection! Things were looking up! After overindulging, we drove 15-minutes south to Solana Ulcinj, a discontinued salt production plant turned wildlife sanctuary. It didn't look like much when we arrived and I was actually a little concerned that we were in the wrong place. ...But if you walk about 5 km, at the right time of year (April - early June is ideal), towards the border of Albania, you'll see something incredible – white flamingos. They were majestic! It’s free to enter Salinas, but it is a private reserve so you must announce your arrival in advance, via email. We were the only people there. It was very tranquil. We spent about an hour and half leisurely strolling around and flamingo watching, but as the temperature began to raise and the breeze died down, the swarms of non-biting bugs, hovering near the still water, became unbearable. There were millions of them. That was our queue to move on to our next destination. We then headed up the coast, about an hour and half, to Hotel Adrovic, for lunch and some photos. This is where you get the money shot of Montenegro’s most iconic site - Sveti Stefan. Today, the island is home to Montenegro’s most luxurious 5* holiday resort, Aman Sveti Stefan, starting at ~€800/night (excluding taxes and service charges). It is only open seasonally (1st May – 30th September) and is inaccessible to those who are not guests. However, if you want to visit Sveti Stefan for less than that €800 price tag, you can make a reservation and dine at either The Taverna or Nobu. The next stop on the road trip was a 15-minute ride around the cove to Budva where the next two nights were spent, at Hotel Astoria, in the heart the ancient old city, surrounded by well-preserved cobbled lanes, stone buildings, and a pebble beach. It was here that we were reunited with our luggage! Happy days! The following morning, we breakfasted on the beach, paid €20 for the night's parking and then drove in the direction of Cetinje, to visit Lipa Cave. It’s one of Montenegro’s largest caves and about 2.5kms of it can be explored (for roughly €10). It was an hour-long tour. During the high-season, there is also an option for adrenaline junkies to do an Extreme Cave Tour, which actually looked quite fun, but we were there too early in the year to partake. It’s chilly and damp in the caves, year-round, so layer up. Having missed seeing Lake Skadar on the first day (as a result of our travel mishaps), we decided to squeeze it in after the cave tour. One of the luxuries of having a car! Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans. About 70% of it lies in Montenegro and the remaining 30% in Albania. We followed Google maps, for about 20-minutes, towards the Pavlova Strana Viewpoint. The roads were single lane only with tight switchbacks and no guardrails. It was not a drive for the faint-hearted, but the view of horseshoe bend made it worth the risk. Fortunately, we were able to take a different route to Budva and did not have to backtrack along the same hairpin turns we took to arrive. We did, however, have to contend with a sheep traffic jam and a policeman pulling us over (but not speaking English, so why were stopped remains a mystery). Always an adventure! That Sunday evening, we bopped around Budva, but ultimately ended up at Hemingway Bar and Restaurant, within the Majestic Hotel. It was a civilised dinner and drinks spot to start, but turned into a rager come about 10pm. On Monday morning we checked out of Hotel Astoria, paid another €20 for the public parking and drove about 30-minutes to Tivat to have a little look-see. After we found street parking (which we were told was free everywhere within Tivat), we walked to Porto, the sparkling new marina within the Tivat municipality, sat at the foot of Mount Vrmac. This posh promenade bears zero resemblance to anywhere else in Montenegro and is more akin to Monaco with its super yachts, fancy boutiques, luxury hotels and first-class restaurants. After enjoying an over-priced smoothie on the boardwalk, we carried on 20-minutes further to Kotor. Kotor is a UNESCO world heritage site due to its well-preserved Medieval-style architecture and landscapes. Here, we were also staying right in the Old Town, so we had to park outside the walls in a public lot (parking costs were reimbursed by the hotel though). Boutique Hotel Hippocampus was tucked into the corner of the Old Town and was difficult to find, but it was elegant. And the view from our room was lovely, overlooking the narrow streets. It didn't take long to notice the cat crazy nature of Kotor's Old Town! Not only was there an unusually high kitty population, but there were also endless cat souvenirs and donation boxes for feeding the many felines that inhabit the town. There was even a cat museum. We later learned that Kotor is often unofficially called as ‘Cat Town’ because of it's obsession. Later in the afternoon, the temperature had dropped and the sun had hidden behind the clouds, making it the perfect weather for hiking up 1,350+ steps to the dominating fortress of San Giovanni, high above Kotor’s Old Town. It was still a sweaty journey up though and I wish I had worn more sensible footwear than flip flops. The sweeping views of the bay and mountains made all the perspiration and effort well worthwhile. On the way down, we had to hustle a bit as it started drizzling and the stones would have gotten slippery if the rain picked up. We had worked up quite a thirst after the hike, so we stopped at Old Winery Wine Bar for some adult beverages. The servers and service there was so lovely that we ended up dining there and staying all night. They made me Uštipci (savory fried dough balls served with soft cheese) even though this only appears on their breakfast menu. I had them when I was in Bosnia and had been craving them since arriving back into the Balkans. The next morning, we decided to take a stroll along the Old Town walls before hitting the Bay for a boat trip. The wall walk was underwhelming, but the 3-hour boat trip that followed was fantastic! This was the tour we did, for €30 each. The first stop on the boat trip was into the tunnels that were dug into the Lustica Peninsula coastline, used to hide submarines during wartime. We then cruised by Mamula Island, a WWII concentration camp where prisoners were tortured and starved that is sadly now being transformed into luxury beach resort. From there, we were lucky that the tide cooperated and we were able to enter the Blue Caves, referred to as such because of the iridescent blue that bounces off the shallow bottom. It was too cold to swim, but the option did exist. Next, we visited Our Lady of the Rocks, a Roman Catholic church on its own tiny island. According to legend, this islet was made over the centuries by Croat local seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding the icon of Madonna and Child on the rock in the sea on July 22, 1452. Upon returning from each successful voyage, they laid a rock in the Bay. Over time, the islet gradually emerged from the sea. The custom of throwing rocks into the sea is still alive today. Our Lady of the Rocks' neighboring island is officially called St. George Island. Most of the island is occupied by a cemetery. Devoid of the living, the island is commonly referred to as the Island of the Dead. The final stop on the boat journey was charming Perast, where we disembarked and walked along the one main street. We decided to explore the area outside the walls of Kotor Old Town for dinner that night and ended up at Galion, known for its fresh fish and romantic atmosphere. It also comes with stunning views over the Adriatic, a picturesque harbor, and the walls of the Old Town. Once the sun went down, you could also very clearly see the lit up path to San Giovanni Fortress. The final day of the road-trip led us about two-hours away from Kotor, towards the middle of the country, to visit Ostrog Monastery, a Serbian Orthodox Church carved almost in its entirety in a vertically positioned mountain cliff. You can drive all the way up to it if you follow signs the for 'Upper Monastery'. We didn’t stay for too long, just snapped some pics and then hit the road again. We had to drive another hour to Podgorica (the capital city, which is quite industrial) to feed ourselves, fuel up, return the car and catch our flight. Sadly, that was where our magical Montenegrin road trip ended. If you decide to visit Montenegro, and I strongly advise that you do, below is a list of things you should know before you go: Montenegro is a seasonal destination, due to its climate. The best time to visit is broadly between April and September. From October to early-April some hotels and restaurants close, but I can vouch for the fact that the ones that do stay open offer excellent rates. Montenegro has adopted the Euro as its currency, despite not being a member of the European Union (yet). They use the same wall sockets/outlets as the rest of continental Europe. They drive on the right side of the road. They have some weird traffic signs, like the no honking one pictured here. We only came across one toll in all of our driving and it was €2.50. Most of the roads are paved and it’s not too confusing to get around. Petrol stations in Montenegro are full service. We only filled up once and it cost about €45. Fellow drivers often warn you of police presence by flashing their high beams. Every Montenegrin we met went out of their way to be friendly and helpful. They were very proud of their country and seemed happy to be sharing it with us. Tipping is about 10%. Overall, I did not particularly enjoy the wine nor food, but it was edible. #montenegro #europe #roadtrip #podgorica #ulcinj #solanaulcinj #flamingo #svetistefan #budva #cetinje #lipacave #lakeskadar #horseshoebend #tivat #porto #mountvrmac #UNESCOworldheritagesites #kotor #sangiovannifortress #bokabay #bayofkotor #mamulaisland #bluecaves #ourladyoftherocks #stgeorgeisland #perast #ostrogmonastery

2018 presented me with a unique travel opportunity to combine my fascination with Russia and my desire to attend a World Cup. The fact that visa restrictions were lifted, Russia's infrastructure was at its best and English-language resources were more plentiful than usual were all bonuses. Visa-free entry to Russia was permitted, provided you could produce a Fan ID and a passport with at least six months' validity. The Fan ID was easily obtained, after FIFA confirmed that you had been granted match tickets, by entering minimal personal data. The ID was then shipped to you, free of charge. This was the first time in FIFA World Cup history that a ticket wasn't enough to gain access to a match. At stadium security stations, you had to first scan your Fan ID, followed by your ticket. They had to link up, making scalping impossible. All reselling/ticket transfers had to be done legitimately through FIFA. The Fan ID was also required when checking into hotels (so the staff could register you with the local city authorities), it granted World Cup spectators free travel in and between host cities and it even supplied free WiFi, in certain places, after entering your Fan ID number. It was absolutely brilliant technology and was implemented flawlessly from what I could see. Due to heightened political tensions between the UK and Russia and the violence between Russian and English fans at the 2016 Euros in Marseilles, authorities had been warning the British of high risk of clashes and harassment at the World Cup. I also checked the USA's travel advisories for Americans visiting Russia and the threat level was 'Reconsider travel', just one level below 'Do not travel'. Despite all government warnings and all the pre-event doubt, this tournament turned out to be extraordinary! It far surpassed anything I could have imagined. The Cup was incredibly well-run, the locals did a fantastic job of welcoming the world into their country and Russia was just as interesting and beautiful as I had hoped. I never once felt unsafe. Event areas were heavily policed (check out the Stormtrooper pictured below at Saint Petersburg Stadium) and security at the stadiums was thorough. Russia also passed strict legislation, ahead of the Cup, criminalizing hooligan activities and promising to prosecute violent fans. Furthermore, the only alcoholic beverage sold during the matches was Budweiser. Since it's basically water, the crowds didn't seem to get too out of control. The morning of Saturday 30th June, I flew directly from London Heathrow into Moscow's Sheremetyevo Airport, on Aeroflot. Prior to flying, I looked up Aeroflot's handheld baggage allowances and had a bit of a giggle when I saw that a bouquet of flowers was permitted as a free additional carry-on item. Once in Moscow, I noticed that a lot of people were walking around carrying bouquets of flowers, so I did some research and it turned out that flowers were a thing in Russia and there was even specific occasion-based flower etiquette to which Russians adhered. Who knew? Moscow, the country's capital and most populous city (with 13.2 million residents), had a 'see and be seen' scene. Moscovites were chic, cosmopolitan and refined. The restaurants and bars were hip and opulent and the emerging food scene was vibrant. Although I don't usually care so much for Russian food, the places I went were surprisingly good and there were also a variety of other cuisines to select from. The first night I dined in The Library at Cafe Pushkin. It reminded me of Ron Burgundy and his 'many leather-bound books'. The space was a three-floor, 19th-century, restored manor house. The atmosphere of each floor varied and the prices increased as you climbed each staircase. Service was formal, the menu was typical Russian and the music was classical. After dinner, we wandered down Tverskoy Boulevard. We were looking for a bar where we could watch Suárez take on Ronaldo, errrr, Uruguay play Portugal. We stumbled upon the trendy Fahrenheit, which happened to have open seats, an award-winning mixologist behind the bar and the game projected on the wall. The giant screen made Ronaldo's neck look even bigger than normal, which I didn't know was possible. As Portugal prepared to head home, we decided to make our own plans for moving on - the first of which required using the facilities. We got a bit lost en route and discovered a series of grand, lavish rooms/restaurants all connected under one roof. They appeared to all be part of the Maison Dellos restaurant group. The next morning, we awoke bright and early, ready for a busy day of sightseeing and World Cup match #51! We started with breakfast at Grand-Cafe Dr. Zhivago in the Hotel Nacional. It was a beautiful space where interesting pieces of art were woven into a modern design, with a Soviet touch and a view of the Kremlin. I highly recommend going, but be advised that a reservation is required about a week in advance. Once our bellies were full and the rain had let up, our next stop was across the road, to Red Square. This expansive central square was surrounded by architectural marvels including The State Historical Museum, Kazan Cathedral, GUM Department Store, Lenin's Mausoleum, Spasskaya Tower and Saint Basil's Cathedral. Nikolskaya Street, a pedestrian alleyway connecting Red Square and Lubyanka Square, was decorated with fairy lights and colorful butterflies, which was beautiful and full of high-fiving, selfie-taking fans. The next agenda item was rooftop drinks at the Ritz-Carlton's O2 Lounge. There we had stunning views of Russia's most iconic building, (Saint Basil's Cathedral). We enjoyed a glass of champagne before taking a car to Luzhniki Stadium to see Spain battle it out with the host nation, in the round of sixteen. The stadium's capacity was 81,000, making it the largest football stadium in Russia and one of the largest in Europe. Every seat had a Russian flag placed on it, which I thought was a really nice touch; Spanish fans may not have agreed. Spectators were supporting a variety of teams since they didn't necessarily know who they'd be seeing play when they bought their tickets. Regardless, everyone was friendly, the atmosphere was buzzing and the noise was roaring as the Russians chanted 'russ-e-ya' on repeat. We entered halftime tied at 1-1, after a Spanish handball in the box lead to a penalty which resulted in Russia equalizing. 45 more minutes of regulation time and 30-minutes of extra-time expired and it was still a draw. Koke & Aspas' missed penalty shots which knocked Spain out of the tournament, secured Russia's spot in the last eight and sent the crowd into raptures. It was electric! You didn't have to speak/understand Russian to figure out the crowd was pleased. The incredible penalty shootout triumph over Spain sparked joyous celebrations all over Moscow, all night long! Car horns were blaring, people were hanging out of moving cars, main streets were pedestrianized and there was dancing in the roads. Having consumed only a few barely edible meatballs at the stadium, we were famished. Around 11pm, we headed to Lucky Noodles, which I had read about before traveling to Russia. It was a tiny, chaotic place where people didn't seem to be paying for anything and everyone was shouting and pushing. The noodles were actually pretty delicious, but the real joy of the place was the secret speakeasy below, called Mendeleev. We were told no photography was allowed downstairs, and I didn't dare break any rules in Russia, so I have no images to share, but it was reminiscent of a debonair version of Beetlejuice's Netherworld. On Monday morning, we took the 4-hour high-speed Sapsan train from Moscow to Saint Petersburg. I found Saint Petersburg to be quite different from Moscow. Where Moscow felt cosmopolitan and glossy, Saint Petersburg seemed more artsy and laid back. Often called the 'Venice of the North', with all it's grand canals, St. Petersburg was visually and architecturally stunning. So beautiful in fact that its whole historic city center was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We traded in Moscow's 80℉/27℃ dry weather for Saint Petersburg's 51℉/11℃ drizzle. Lousy weather combined with the cancellation of our Swan Lake tickets for that evening ('due to technical reasons at the Hermitage Theatre'), meant that we had to come up with an alternate, indoor evening plan. We ended up at Bellevue Brasserie, at the Kempinski Hotel, where we were told there was normally a brilliant 360° view of the city, when there wasn't so much cloud cover. There we had some Russian sparkling wine, chatted with the friendly waiter who was raised in Brooklyn and got some recommendations for where to go to watch the Brazil vs. Mexico and Belgium vs. Japan matches. 3rd July was another overloaded day consisting of touring and football. We first went to see the infamous Church of Savior on Blood, which is one of St. Petersburg's main landmarks. It was a shame that it was under construction, but apparently the facade of the cathedral was in a dilapidated condition. Our wanderings took us through the Field of Mars, on to the Summer Garden (which I learned was closed on Tuesdays for 'the planning and preventive care of the garden and fountain complex') and then onward to the Winter Palace/Hermitage Museum/Palace Square. It was about that time that the skies opened up and torrential rain attacked us. We dipped into the nearest place we could find for lunch, to wait it out. Luckily the storm passed before our boat ride to the Switzerland vs. Sweden match. About an hour later, we arrived at Saint Petersburg Stadium, which looked a lot like a spaceship. After disembarking from the boat, we had a 20-minute walk through a forest before arriving at the 64,287 seat, 1-year-old, very modern stadium. Of all the matches in the 2018 World Cup, Switzerland-Sweden was probably one of the most boring. After 90-mins, the Swedes advanced to the quarterfinals with a 1-0 scoreline. Once the game ended, we exited the stadium, passed through the forest and somehow found ourselves being shuffled into a giant beer hall called Alpenhaus, with about a thousand Swedish men. It was like Oktoberfest for Swedes, AKA Vikingfest. It was here that we watched Colombia lose to England in a penalty shoot-out, on the 394-inch screen. This meant that Sweden would confront England in the quarterfinals. I have never seen such a rambunctious room go so silent as when England won. It was like a record scratched and the only two people screaming in the whole place was my friend and me. When we finally left Alpenhaus, around 1am, it was eerily light out. For about 80ish nights each year, between May and June, St. Petersburg experiences 'white nights' and it almost never gets dark. After a massive night celebrating with the Viking, we allowed ourselves a lie-in on Thursday morning, which happened to be 4th of July ('MERICA!). We had a delicious Georgian lunch at Rustaveli before taking an hour-long cab ride to Petehof. Peterhof, sometimes referred to as the 'Russian Versailles', was a collection of palaces and gardens, created at the orders of Peter the Great. Peterhof has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our last stop on our Saint Petersburg tour was Big Wine Freaks. It was slightly outside the city center, but had a full-bodied decor and the snacks/wine were on point. The following morning, I left my phone in the taxi after getting dropped at the airport. Even that though could not ruin my trip! This was one of the best sporting competitions I have ever attended and I am already considering going to Qatar for the 2022 World Cup. ADDENDUM: Two days after returning home to London, I watched Sweden play England in the quarterfinals. England surprised me by beating Sweden and advancing to the semi-finals. At the end of the match, the cameras panned the crowd and I saw some of the Swedes I had been partying with the prior Tuesday night. Mind you, they were not hard to spot with their yellow braided wigs, but I have also since seen their pictures in various publications (see the second picture in this article and my picture below from 3rd July). Know Before You Go: Russia was generally affordable. I would even go so far as to say it was inexpensive, compared to London. Tipping was not as customary in Russia as in the U.S., but it was always appreciated. Standardly, Russians leave about a 10% tip on a food bill, if the service was good. It was illegal for restaurants/bars to add service charge to their bills, but we saw it done in several places, so beware not to double tip. Dress up at night if you want to fit in with the locals, especially in Moscow. At all the nice restaurants in Moscow, a stool or stand was provided for your handbag, so you didn't need to place it on the floor. Uber is available in some cities in Russia, but the app was operated by Yandex and was really wonky. My friend experienced less trouble with the app in Saint Petersburg than in Moscow. It's a very cheap option though. #russia #europe #moscow #saintpetersburg #stpetersburg #fifaworldcup #worldcup2018 #fifa #saintbasil39scathedral #kremlin #hermitage

Record-keeping officially began in 1910, but the Festival of San Fermín is believed to date back as far as the 1800's. This annual event, made famous internationally by Ernest Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises, has put Pamplona, Spain on the map. Each year, San Fermín festivities kicks-off at noon on 6th July and carry on through midnight on 14th July. This fiesta honors the city's first bishop and patron saint, Saint Fermín. Of the many festival activities, the most famous event is the encierro, or the Running of the Bulls. In the wee hours each morning, between 7th-14th July, wooden fences and boards are put in place along the streets of the course. People are evacuated and the roads are hosed down to remove the debris from the previous night's debauchery. If you're not feeling like a daredevil, but would still like being in the thick of it all, I recommend securing yourself a balcony spot from which to view. These sell out early in the year. I reserved mine in January, through Bucket List Events. I only attended one morning of bull running, on 12th July. Our Bucket List Events crew escorted us up to out balcony around 6:45am, just before the streets were beginning to be shut down. The apartment owner had coffee, sangria and snacks prepared for us and pre-event coverage was projected on the wall. Our balcony overlooked 'Dead Man's Curve', a 90-degree bend where Calle de Mercaderes meets Calle de Estafeta and the course gets extra unpredictable. Around 7:30am, runners started to fill the streets. Participants said a prayer to Saint Fermín, in the hopes of protection - "Viva San Fermín!, Gora San Fermin!" ("Long live Saint Fermín", in Spanish and then in Basque). The run begins promptly at 8:00am. It's 875-meters long, passing through several narrow streets in the old quarter of Pamplona, culminating at the bullring. The average run takes between two and three minutes. In each run, there are six aggressive bulls, which can usually be identified by their dark hair. The other six more tame bulls are actually steers that keep the pack together and calm down the hostile bulls. These steers will not try to gore people, but if someone stands in their way, they may get bumped into. Two minutes after the first set of bulls are released from their corrals, a second set of slower steers are set loose to collect any bulls that may have strayed from the herd. After the run is complete, the street cleaners promptly get to work. Within moments everything is spic and span. We were allowed to stay in the flat where our balcony was until 8:30am. After descending from our vantage point, we headed back to our hotel to catch some shut-eye before the rest of the day's festivities kicked off. After emerging from our daytime slumber, around 2pm, we headed to the main square to drink sangria, people watch and listen to live music. Imagine trying to find Waldo/Wally in this crowd?! Later on there was a parade, known as the Parade of Gigantes y Czbezudos (Giants and Big-Heads) in the old town. At 6:30pm each evening during Fermín, a bullfight takes place, where the six bulls that ran in the encierro that same morning fight till their death. I understand that bullfighting is a beloved cultural tradition in Spain, but the fights are unfair and cruel. There is nothing heroic about what the matadors are doing. I decided to spend my €95 on other things instead. Also occurring every night, at 11pm, is a half an hour of fireworks at Vuelta del Castillo Park. Fireworks were first seen in Pamplona in 1595, but in 2000 it was turned into an international competition. The fireworks were spectacular - the best I have ever seen. When we couldn't stomach any more sangria and the night started turning into morning, we decided it was time to head back to our hotel. On the walk back, we passed a carnival and decided to end our San Fermín experience with a few carnival rides. Know Before you Go: This is the easiest trip you will ever pack for! Everyone, and I mean, EVERYONE is dressed in white, with a red band tied around their waist and a red bandana around their neck. If you don't have these items on-hand, you can purchase them for about €2 each in Pamplona. Don't even bother bringing any other clothing; you'll feel out of place if you wear anything other than this uniform. Book early - like in January. It's not a big town and the accommodations sell out, as do the balcony viewing decks. Do you research if you plan to run. There are a lot of rules to be aware of. Be prepared to see bull on the local menus - stew, steaks, etc. I highly recommend that you tack a visit to San Sebastian, Spain and/or Biarrtz, France on to your trip. Both are well worth it. #bulls #runningofthebulls #pamplona #spain #sanfermin #navarra #fiestasofsanfermin

Oktoberfest, which locals call Wiesn, is the world's largest beer festival, held annually in Munich, Bavaria, Germany. More than six million people from around the world attend the event each year. It runs for 16-18 days, beginning in September, and ending the first weekend in October. This year was the 185th anniversary. During this three-ish week festival, Germans and tourists alike dress in their finest tracht (lederhosen for men and dirndl for women) and spend their days/nights (and all their money) drinking beer, eating pretzels and dancing on tables. Some advice for the ladies...1) Whatever you do, don't wear a cheap, all-in-one 'Bavarian Girl' costume. The dirndl should be made up of three pieces - blouse, dress and apron. The outfit is expensive. If you don't want to invest in owning one, there are places in Munich to rent them. 2) Where you tie the bow of your apron is of the utmost importance. Tie it on your left side if you’re single and looking to mingle. It should be tied on the right if you’re in a relationship or married. Put the bow in the back if you're widowed or a waitress and in the front/middle if you’re a virgin or 'it's complicated'. It does not cost anything to stroll through Theresienwiese fairgrounds. There are rides, stalls and people watching that could hold your attention for hours. But if you want the full experience (and you do!), go into the tents. There are 14 main ones, each seating between 3,000 and 11,000 people, and each rocking their own vibe. It'd been nine years since that last time I attended Oktoberfest. In 2009, I sat in the Hofbräu Festzelt tent, most popular amongst Anglo-saxon English-speakers. Reservations had not been secured and we were lucky that the people at the table where we plopped down never turned up. With a capacity of nearly 10,000, this was the biggest beer-tent at Oktoberfest. This time around, 39 friends and I had tickets to the Käfers Wiesn-Schänke tent, owned by one of Munich's most famous restaurateurs, Michael Käfer. This relatively small, rustic tent was fantastic and served incredible food. The roasted duck was something not to be missed. I can understand why this tent has become the go-to for foodies as well as local and international celebrities. Bill and Hilary Clinton had been in attendance the previous night. It can be tough to get into this tent unless you have connections or a famous last name though. Only beer conforming to the Reinheitsgebot, and brewed within the city limits of Munich, can be served at the Munich Oktoberfest. There are six breweries that fit this criteria who produce beer for Oktoberfest. A Maß (or a Mass) is one liter of beer and would set you back about €11 this year. Käfers served Paulaner beer, which I must admit was pretty good (even for a non-beer drinker). Prost! #oktoberfest #munich #germany #bavaria #beer #europe

Northern Lights? 'Not real' is what I would have said, had you asked me any time between 2015 and a few weeks ago. After somehow missing the Aurora Borealis every night on a 10-day road trip around Iceland, it became somewhat of a mission to witness it. As such, this year's adventure with the parentals was spent chasing Northern Lights in Norway. The trip started in Norway's second largest city, Bergen (AKA Bryggen). Although Bergen is considered big, by Norwegian standards, it very much has the charm of a small town. Statistically one of the wettest cities in Europe, it gets drenched in about 2.25m/89in of precipitation a year. Luckily, we were rain-ready with our wet-weather gear, so the downpouring didn't stop us from exploring. I recommend seeing the colorful Hanseatic buildings on the harbor (shown below), taking the cable car up to Mount Fløyen, visiting the fish market and eating dinner at Spisekroken. Delightful as Bergen was, I believe the city was best served as a gateway to the surrounding fjord country. On the eve of Saturday 13th October, we boarded Ms Nordnorge, one of the more recently refurbished ships in the Hurtigruten fleet. Hurtigruten (meaning 'fast route'), is a cruise, ferry and cargo operator that was established in 1893, by the government, to improve communications along Norway's coastline. Ms Nordnorge wasn't a mammoth, luxurious cruise liner. It was informal and comfortable, with no dress code, locally sourced food and a delightful crew. Our tour was the Classic Voyage North. On this 134-hour journey up the Norwegian coast, we stopped at all of the ports indicated below, traversed deep fjords, enjoyed expeditions and crossed the Arctic Circle before we disembarked in Kirkenes. At 8pm sharp we set out to sea. When we awoke the next morning, we were in Ålesund, surrounded by mountains, mist and insane wind. Around mid-day, we found ourselves in the middle of Hjørundfjord. Smaller boats took us to land for our first excursion, 'Hike with a Visit to a Shieling'. I must admit that I wasn't particularly enthused when I first read the title, but that was partly because I didn't know what a shieling was and partially because I had my heart set on visiting one of the world's most stunning swings, which was located in the same fjord, at an inn/pub called Christian-Gaard. However, once we arrived into Urke, Hjørundfjord it became clear that we would not have time nor the proper transport to get to the very remote swing in the road-less village of Trandal. As we began our hike, the beautiful scenery quickly curbed my disappointment. The air was fresh, the Sunnmøre Alps snow-capped and the river had never been 'so rich and full’ (in the apt words of our guide). Once we arrived at the shielings and I learned that they were hobbit huts, I became infinitely more excited about this expedition! Not only were there a bunch of Sherry-sized cabins dotted around, which pleased me as I have an affinity for miniature versions of things, but we were also going to sample local delicacies within the hobbit-holes. Although the hike was not exceedingly challenging, we had been walking at an incline for about an hour and half and I had worked up a bit of an appetite. After three-hours had passed, it was time to return to the ship and sail back to Ålesund, where we were allowed to disembark for a second time that day. We had a little wander around the cute port town, but had been a long day and it wet outside so we didn't venture too far. By Monday morning we were in Trondheim, Norway's third largest city. The top attraction here was the 200-year old wooden, colored houses in the Bakklandet neighborhood (pictured below). Also cool to see was an islet we nicknamed Execution Island. The real name was Munkholmen Island (but that was harder to say and less fun to sing). This was Trondheim's execution site in the Viking era. Over the years, it changed from a monastery to a prison and fortress and is now a recreational area with a beach and restaurant (seasonally open from May to September). We got back underway in time to pass some cute villages and wind farms before seeing our first Norwegian Sea sunset. That night, it was announced over the ship's intercom that the Northern Lights had been spotted. Everyone on the boat ran out to deck 7. We found a less crowded spot on deck 5, where we were able to set up our tripods and get some proof that Northern Lights really existed. Points for those who spot the Big Dipper in the picture below. I have to be honest, all I could really see was a grey streak, arcing across the sky, which looked a lot like the vapor trail of a low-flying plane. It was certainly not a spectacular display of green as captured in my photo. I later learned that the human eye views the Northern Lights generally in black & white, whereas DSLR camera sensors don’t have the same limitation. Couple that with long exposure times and high ISO settings, and you'll find that your camera has a much more dynamic range of vision in the dark than we humans do. By the morning of day four, we had crossed the Arctic Circle. We awoke with certificates left at our door. We arrived at port in Bodø around 12:30pm and got geared up for the 'RIB (rigid inflatable boat) Safari To Saltstraumen' excursion. The Saltstraumen Maelstrom is the world's most powerful tidal current. When active, you can see wild whirlpools, boils and vortices. I'll have to take the Internet's word on that though, as the tides didn't cooperate for us. Regardless, the trip was fabulous. It was like being in a scene of an action film, as all the speed boats headed into the abyss, in formation, hitting waves at 30 knots. On Wednesday, we arrived into Tromsø, where we visited the Wilderness Centre and learned a bit about dog sledding before meeting the huskies and their pups. The puppies were naughty little rascals, but playful and super soft (and dirty). That night, very faint Northern Lights came out to play. On Thursday, we disembarked in Honningsvåg, on the island of Magerøya, which is the northernmost city in Norway, located in the Nordkapp Municipality, in Finnmark county. We took a bus journey to the northernmost point on the European continent, called North Cape. It is located at 71 degrees North, inside the Arctic Circle, about 2,000km from the North Pole. The globe monument is said to mark the northern tip of Europe. Although the North Cape claimed to be the most northernmost point of Europe, it's fake news. The northernmost point is actually Knivskjellodden (71 11"48" N). You can see it in the middle of the photo below. Our final Aruora display occurred that night, giving us a great end to our time spent on Ms Nordnorge. East met West on Thursday morning, at the far-northern Norwegian town of Kirkenes, a few short miles from the Russian border. This was where our cruise culminated. We disembarked at 9am and were bused the airport for our flight to Copenhagen, via Oslo. Kirkenes was the turning point for those passengers staying on the cruise longer. It's worth noting that Hurtigruten offers a Northern Lights Promise for those who do the full 12-day cruise. If the Northern Lights don't make an appearance during your time on board (journeys between 1st October and 31st March), you can go back and do another 6 or 7-day voyage, free of charge. Although I was ready to be on dry land by the end of the trip, I was overwhelmed by Norway's beauty and felt that a cruise was the best way to experience the fjords and the coastal landscapes. I am also ecstatic to confirm that the Polar Lights are real! Photographing the Northern Lights: I was shooting with a Canon 80D and an 18-135mm lens. I had a tripod and a shutter release remote. I set my camera to the Live View setting so I could use the LCD screen as a bigger viewfinder. In Program shooting mode, I switched my focus from automatic to manual and adjusted the focus ring to infinity. For my best shots, my camera was set at f/3.5 and 1600 ISO with the lens open for 30 seconds. Best results for photographing Northern Lights will depend on your gear, but generally fall within f/2.8-f/5.6 for the aperture, 800-3200 for the ISO and 15-30 seconds for the shutter speed. *NOTE: Regardless of your gear/settings, you'll struggle to get a perfectly clear photo when you're on a rocking boat, moving at 18 knots, with the wind blowing. Know Before You Go: In Bergen, it's easy and cheap to take the Light Rail from the airport into the city center (Byparken is the stop you'll want). It takes about 45-mins and costs £3.40. Be sure to bring warm clothes and proper rain/wind gear. Hiking boots are a must. Announcements on board are made in several languages and you can set the phone in your room to allow or refuse them. I would recommend keeping them on at night though, so you can run outside if the Northern Lights are spotted. The Aurora Borealis is skittish, elusive and unpredictable. Seeing the lights depends not just on the weather (dry, clear skies are best) but also on location and a good dose of luck. Norway is one of the most expensive countries in Europe so bring your credit card! #norway #northernlights #auroraborealis #bergen #kirkenes #hurtigruten #nordnorge #cruise