My polar expedition took me to a place where time felt suspended and the sun almost never set. A frozen, mobile dead zone so quiet that the only sounds were penguins sneezing, the thunderous crack of calving icebergs and the breathy exhales of surfacing whales. It’s a land so remote that fewer than a fraction of a percent of the world’s population will ever stand upon it. A place where the landscape feels utterly untouched by time and unspoiled by humans. Celebrating Christmas at Earth’s final frontier, surrounded by endless white horizons on my seventh continent, was more than a holiday. It was a once-in-a-lifetime immersion into one of the rawest, most extraordinary places I’ve ever been. That sense of isolation was interrupted only by the reality of ship life. Over 1,550 nautical miles , our vessel carried 113 passengers and 72 crew members, including a group from Flash Pack and 18 Ukrainians traveling with Bodo Travel. In total, 16 nationalities were represented, creating a young, lively crowd that set a fun, energetic tone from the very start. Below is a play-by-play of my time in this frozen wonderland... 18th December 2025 - Embarkation Our luggage was collected, by Poseidon , from our room at the Arakur Hotel , promptly at 8:00am. After breakfast at the hotel, we checked out at 10:00am. With time to spare before boarding the ship in the afternoon, we took the shuttle into town, ran a few errands, bought a few last minute necessities and enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch at Isabel . At around 4:00pm, we boarded the Sea Spirit. At check-in, we handed our passports over to reception, where they were held for the duration of the trip. Then we made our way to our triple suite (#347) to unpack and settle in. The afternoon unfolded with drinks and snacks, followed by a welcome meeting with our Expedition Leader, Chris Bruttel. Shortly after, we attended a safety briefing and completed the mandatory lifeboat drill - the official start to our Antarctic adventure. Following dinner, we received our Poseidon expedition parkas and muck boots. My boots had been a point of contention in the lead-up to trip due to sizing issues. After months of back-and-forth, they had to be specially ordered from Canada and only arrived on the day we embarked. This whole ordeal ultimately resulted in a $150 onboard credit in my name. That night, as we slept, the ship quietly carried us through the Beagle Channel and into the Drake Passage. 19th December 2025 - Day at Sea We were jolted awake at 8:00am by a blaring, aggressive song and a morning announcement from Chris. The day was spent eating, reviewing environmental and safety procedures, bio-cleaning our gear, birdwatching and enjoying the unusually tranquil seas. That evening, after enjoying ice cream and a welcome cocktail with the captain and expedition team, we were treated to the first sunset of the trip, casting its golden light at 10:40pm. 20th December 2025 - First Landing Blessed with unusually calm waters in the Drake Passage ( Drake Lake) , we navigated it in just a day and a half. That smooth crossing earned us an unexpected bonus - an extra landing, ahead of schedule. Today was the day we’d step off the boat and have an adventure! Penguins swimming and porpoising around us like tiny dolphins were our first sign that Antarctica was close. Our first landfall was on Half Moon Island, located in the South Shetland Islands. Despite the snowy and windy conditions, we were thrilled to see chinstrap and gentoo penguins, and even one lost Adélie penguin wandering amongst them. The little waddlers were tending to their chicks and courting each other, offering pebbles to their mates. They were loud, a little stinky, delightfully clumsy and absolutely hilarious. I was smitten! 21st December 2025 - Summer Solstice The morning was spent cruising around Spert Island (another of the South Shetland Islands) in a zodiac. The towering icebergs around us were utterly breathtaking. Between excursions, we were entertained by humpback whales circling the ship. Later that day, we visited Palaver Point, a famous, rocky headland on the west side of Two Hummock Island, located within the Palmer Archipelago of the South Shetland Islands. True to its name, the penguins were delightfully chaotic. Many were nesting, sitting on eggs and honking like confused donkeys. On the longest day of the year, we had a third landing of the day, but our first on the actual Antarctic continent, at Portal Point. With little wildlife in sight, we were free to play in the snow and have a bit of fun. The sun set around 12:40am and, in true polar fashion, rose again just a couple of hours later. 22nd December 2025 Our early start took us on Danco, a mile-long island tucked into the southern Errera Channel. In one extraordinary stretch of time, Antarctica put on a full performance - fornicating gentoo penguins, sculpted icebergs, the crack and roar of an avalanche, passing whales and a lone leopard seal sunning itself atop an iceberg. It was here, too, that I captured my favorite video of the trip. Later, in Paradise Harbor, a pod of roughly twenty killer whales closed in on our ship, playing and socializing in the icy stillness. The captain even rerouted our course so we could linger with the orcas. It was a rare sighting that I won’t soon forget. For our second continental landing, we stepped ashore at Brown Station, an Argentine research base that now operates during the summer only. The day was so warm and sunny that we shed our gloves and outer layers. As we headed back to the ship by zodiac, my dad snapped this beautiful photo of our vessel surrounded by icebergs. If you look closely, you can even spot a little whale tail to the right of the ship. Tonight was when the ice campers slept rough in Leith Cove. I took a different approach, staying dry and warm in the ship’s bar, drinking far too much for far too long, lulled by the endless daylight and the absence of any real signal to call it a night. 23rd December 2025 With no early wake-up call, we enjoyed a slow morning. I skipped breakfast and used the time to sleep off some of the night before. When I finally awoke, I was thrilled to step out onto the deck and watch as we passed through the Lemaire Channel. This renowned 11-kilometer strait in Antarctica, nestled between the Kyiv Peninsula and Booth Island, is often called 'Kodak Gap' or 'Kodak Alley' for its breathtaking beauty. Soaring, snow-covered cliffs rose on either side and dense, picturesque fields of ice floated across the still, mirror-like water, making reflections a photographer’s dream. The channel is known to become blocked with sea ice, sometimes making passage impossible, but luck was on our side. After cruising through the Channel, we landed on Yalour Island, where a parade of adorable Adélie penguins were hard at work nesting and having an absolute blast belly-sliding across the snow. Watching them tumble, waddle and skitter around was endlessly entertaining. With only 60 guests allowed on the island at a time, the rest of us set out on zodiac tours, which were just as thrilling. We weaved between icebergs that seemed to take on all sorts of shapes, dodged playful seals lounging on the floes and watched penguins dart and dive through the water. Every turn brought a new scene that never grew old. For dinner, it was warm and dry enough for us to enjoy a BBQ on Deck 5 aft. It was one of the most spectacular dining views I’ve ever experienced, with whales and icebergs all around. 24th December 2025 - Christmas Eve Christmas Eve looked a little different this year. It kicked off at Vernadsky Station, a Ukrainian research base, where we toured the facilities, mailed postcards to our loved ones from the edge of the world and toasted the season with a free shot of homemade vodka at the world’s southernmost pub - Antarctica style! Our second stop of the day was at the neighboring Wordie House, named after Scottish polar explorer James Wordie, who served as chief scientist and geologist on Shackleton’s 1914–1917 Endurance expedition. The base was in use until 1954, when operations moved to Vernadsky. Preserved with hundreds of original artifacts (lamps, bunks, equipment, food cans, artwork, etc.), it offered a fascinating glimpse into the harsh realities of early Antarctic life. Later, at Port Charcot, a small bay at the northern end of Booth Island, we got up close to playful seals and spotted rare 'headless' and flying penguins. That night, a ship record was broken when 79 people voluntarily jumped into the 3°C water, all to say they’d taken part in the Polar Plunge. Human participants ranged in age from 10 to 73 - but I’m not sure how old the curious whale was that joined the party. By the end, peer pressure had even convinced the expedition leader, Chris, and his wife, Fabi, to dive in. Hot mulled wine raised all the plungers' core temperature as we cruised back through the Lemaire Channel, signaling the start of our return to Argentina. The festive drinks continued well into the wee hours of Christmas. 25th December 2025 - Christmas Day The news on Christmas morning wasn’t great. It felt impossible that our run of good luck could end, but Antarctica reminded us of who was in charge. The captain decided to depart about 12 hours earlier than anticipated, to avoid a storm that threatened to make the Drake Passage unnavigable. This meant our final zodiac ride was canceled and we faced a rocky day at sea (~3.5-meter waves). Many people battled seasickness. A few lectures were offered to entertain those well enough to attend, but most passengers stayed in their cabins. 26th December - Boxing Day Waves built from 4–5 meters to a punishing 6–7 meters at their worst. I couldn’t eat and only felt okay when I was horizontal. Moving around the ship was a challenge - you had to keep 'one hand for yourself and one hand for the ship.' Experiencing the infamous Drake Shake was far less magical than everything that had come before. The one thing I did manage was to participate in the photo contest, where I took third place with this shot of a seal. 27th December 2025 - Day at Sea The smooth waters of the Beagle Channel, where we were for most of the day, were a welcomed change from being tossed around by the Drake. It was mainly an administrative day spent returning boots and name tags, settling bills, paying gratuities and swapping contact information with our shipmates. We enjoyed one last dinner together as one big Antarctic family, followed by a few goodbye drinks in the bar. 28th December 2025 - Disembarkation Since we were already so close to Ushuaia, we were unceremoniously kicked off the boat at the ungodly hour of 7:00am. Luckily, luggage storage had been organized by Poseidon, because our flight wasn’t until 6:00pm, leaving us with nearly a full day to wander, explore, eat and try to stay awake. Antarctica was more than just an extraordinary piece of geography, it was an experience that recalibrated my sense of scale, silence and significance. The landscapes were vast beyond comprehension, the wildlife felt impossibly intimate and the stillness lingered long after the gear was returned and the seasickness faded. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Blog : Read this account of the same cruise, from a different year, for more history and logistical information. Accommodations : Antarctica is remote. Nobody lives there year-round. There are super expensive options where you can fly in and stay on the ice for a short period, but for most travelers, you eat, sleep and explore from your cruise ship. Landings are made using zodiacs. Ships : There are many options. I recommend choosing a ship with fewer than 200 passengers to maximize your time on land, since there are limits on how many people can visit each site at once. Embarkation : The primary gateways to Antarctica are Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, with South America being the closest and most popular launch point. Cost : Antarctica is not a budget destination. Expect to pay at least $8,000 USD per person for the ship alone. Flights, gear and extras will be added on top of that. Tips : Gratuities for the housekeeping and expedition teams came to £710 for the three people on my trip. Fuel Surcharge : We were warned this might apply, but it didn’t. Some travelers report being hit with a hefty fee at the end of their trip, so it’s best to ask in advance. Currency : Our ship operated in USD; other ships may vary. Electricity : Our ship used 110V with US plugs. Check your own ship’s requirements ahead of time. Visas : No country owns Antarctica, so there’s no passport control there. You may still require visas for the country you depart from. Always check ahead of time. IAATO : The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators governs Antarctic tourism to ensure safe and environmentally responsible practices. Strict biosecurity rules apply - you cannot kneel, crouch nor sit on the ground in most areas, and no food is allowed ashore. Leave nothing behind but footprints; bring nothing home but memories! Mobile Service and Wi-Fi : There is no mobile service; coverage ends in the Beagle Channel. Wi-Fi onboard was limited, with a small daily allowance and was generally poor. On our ship, there was a special Wi-Fi on the 5th deck, specifically for the Ukrainian passengers, that worked very well once you had the secret login details. Accessibility : This kind of travel isn’t for everyone. Zodiac landings can be tricky, with uneven surfaces, deep snow, and slippery rocks. Hikes on land were often steep, slippery, and challenging. Landscape : Antarctica is mountainous. It’s the highest, coldest and driest continent - a true polar desert. Weather : Summer can be surprisingly bright and warm. Many people got sunburned, so sunscreen and sunglasses are a must. But it can also be cold and windy, so thermal and waterproof layers are also essential. White Lights : From roughly November through March, the sun remains above the horizon, creating 'white nights' with light around the clock, particularly near the solstice. Seasickness : Once you reach Antarctica, the seas are calm but getting there can be rough. I wore half a Scopolamine patch, each way, through the Drake Passage. They can have scary side effects, so consider carefully. Penguins : On land, penguins have no natural predators so are therefore not afraid of humans. Maintain at least a 5-meter distance but be prepared for them to wander into your space. Lectures : Onboard expedition leaders run educational and fascinating lectures throughout the trip. Food : Three meals a day: breakfast and lunch are buffets, and most dinners were ordered from an extensive menu. Room service was also available for seasick passengers. Allergies : Oddly, I had hay fever in Antarctica, though I can’t imagine what triggered it. Some penguins were sneezing too, so maybe they suffer from allergies as well. PACKING LIST For a full, detailed packing list, check out Adventurous Kate’s guide . Keep in mind that you’ll change multiple times per day on excursion days, so plan on layers and quick-access items. Some things that I highly recommend are below: Essentials Passport Evidence of travel insurance Cruise paperwork Wallet Credit cards / cash Air Tags (lifesaver if your bags get lost!) Suitcase lock Extra luggage tags Pen Health & Medication Prescriptions First aid kit Scopolamine patches for seasickness Vitamins Toiletries & Personal Care All your usual toiletries Face sunscreen (don’t forget to apply it under your nose & chin as the ice reflects sunlight) Lip balm with SPF Eye drops & hand cream for dryness Laundry detergent sheets Earplugs Tissues Hand & foot warmers (foot warmers are better because they stick, so they won't get dropped) Electronics iPhone / mobile iPad / tablet Chargers & adapters Long charging cords Back-up mobile charger Headphones Camera, lenses, batteries, SD cards, filters Clothing Undergarments: underwear, bras, sports bras Socks: thermal, liner, wool, ankle 2x PJs Thermals / base layers Waterproof Pants Snow Pants Waterproof jacket Uniqlo puffy jacket Hats (warmth + sun protection) Waterproof gloves & glove liners Gaiter / neck warmer 2x sunglasses + strap (so they're easy to take on and off for photography) Yoga / comfy clothes for downtime Insoles for muck boots Sturdy, comfy shoes for around the ship Waterproof hiking boots Special Occasion & Fun Christmas attire (hat, sweater) Dress-up outfit for Captain’s Night (optional) Playing cards / games / books Bags Small day bag for onboard use Waterproof bag for cruises & landings Bag for dirty laundry Ziplock bags for electronics and wet items

From one of the quietest places on Earth to one of South America’s loudest celebrations, Chile snapped the world back into focus. Glaciers gave way to graffiti. Santiago welcomed me with mountains and the vibrance of a big city, and before I could fully thaw, Valparaíso had me counting down to New Year’s Eve under a sky primed for fireworks. If Antarctica  felt like a dream; Chile made sure I woke up fast. SANTIAGO With just two nights in the city, we didn’t attempt to see Santiago in full. Instead, we settled into Barrio Italia charming, bohemian neighborhood centered around Avenida Italia. It was a hub for design, art, food and antiques, where historic houses have been converted into artisan shops, boutiques, galleries and inventive restaurants. ACCOMODATION: We stayed in a small but stylish boutique hotel founded by a pair of local women, set within a classic early-20th-century house and offering just eight rooms. Featured in the Michelin Hotel Guide, Maison Italia 1029 was an absolute delight. The rooms were beautifully designed, and most were equipped with charming little terraces, perfect for quiet moments amid the city. DO: I highly recommend taking a day trip into the Andes . We booked what was meant to be an eight-hour private excursion, which happily stretched into ten with our lovely guide, JJ. The day took us through Cajón del Maipo, up to a San José de Maipo volcano lookout where horses grazed beneath, and on to Parque Valle del Yeso/El Yeso Dam, which was stunning, windswept and dramatic. We also stopped to see a glacier perched atop a mountain. Instead of a picnic, we shared freshly made empanadas from a local farm, which was an unexpected highlight. CONSUME: Tio Tomate : Just near our hotel, this cozy spot was a lucky find for a late lunch. The salmon and tuna ceviche were light, fresh and just enough to tide us over until dinner. Lusitano : Hidden in a small galería off Avenida Italia, this Portuguese restaurant was simple perfection. Slow-cooked brisket, seafood with rice, and sangria were all beautifully executed and refreshingly inexpensive. Casaluz : This gem felt like a New York bistro with a touch of Cartagena-style décor. The warm, inviting atmosphere, seasonal dishes, and delightful bar made it a memorable spot for dinner. VALPARAISO From Santiago, a private transfer carried us west, leaving the mountains behind and following the road toward the sea. Two hours later, we arrived in a city completely different from the capital. Valparaíso announced itself with fog, stacked hills and shabby-chic facades. The city was an exercise in graffiti maximalism, every inch clad in tags, scrawls and murals. STAY: Valparaíso is one of the most famous, and busiest, places in South America to celebrate New Year’s Eve, which means accommodations book up fast. Book early. We didn’t. By the time we finally reserved a room, options were limited. We ended up at Hotel Boutique 17 . It w as perfectly fine, but not especially memorable. The real advantage was its location, in the heart of Cerro Concepción. If I were to do it again, I’d aim for the nearby Hotel Brighton . Perched on one of the oldest and most traditional hills in Valpo, next to the Atkinson Promenade, it stood out immediately. Set in a Victorian-style building, the hotel felt distinctive and romantic. NEW YEAR'S EVE: Hours slipped away as we wandered the streets, every alley and stairway revealing fresh, vibrant layers of street art. As New Year’s Eve approached, the city’s energy began to shift. The quiet thrill of wandering alleys gave way to a hum of anticipation. Disco balls sparkled, stages were erected in plazas, and streets seemed to pulse with the promise of the night ahead. By nightfall, Valparaíso had transformed into a living celebration, ready to ring in the New Year in full cheer and chaos. Rather than joining the crowds in the streets, we celebrated from our hotel, enjoying a three-course meal on the terrace with a front-row view of the city’s fireworks. The cold and fog muted some of the spectacle, but bursts of color still cut through the mist over the harbor. NEW YEAR'S DAY: Many places were closed on New Year’s Day, so we grabbed an Uber and headed to Concón. We had a blast climbing the dunes and watching the city’s edges seemingly sink into the sand. CONSUME: Rosmarino: This charming, old home–turned–restaurant impressed us with impeccable service and even better machas (a beloved Chilean seafood delicacy of surf clams baked with parmesan cheese). The ceviche was also fantastic. Inquilino: Another perfect spot for ceviche and machas, with the added bonus of sweeping views of the bay that made the meal as much about the scenery as the food. La Concepción : For a top-rated dinner, consider this restaurant, featured on the 50 Best list. Housed in a mansion built in 1880, with a charming garden terrace, it served up gourmet Chilean and international dishes. Weather permitting, reserve a table on the terrace for sea views. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Airport Receipt : When entering Chile by plane, you’ll receive a small but important document called the Tourist Card ( Tarjeta de Turismo ). This slip proved your legal entry, was essential for avoiding hotel VAT, and must be presented when you exit the country. Keep it safe with your passport, as you’ll need to return it at immigration upon departure. Visa : I did not need a visa to visit Chile, but, as always, check in advance, as requirements can change and visas vary by nationality. Safety : We felt perfectly safe, but many locals and fellow travelers had advised us to be mindful of our belongings. In Santiago, this was especially important around the downtown area (Plaza de Armas and the central market), while in Valparaíso, the warning applied everywhere, particularly with the crowds that flocked to the city for New Year’s. Wildfires : Wildfires are common in Chile during their summer months, due to high temperatures and dry weather. Supper Time : Chileans eat later and heavier than Brazilians, but unlike Argentinians, dinner doesn’t stretch into the middle of the night. Tipping : A 10% tip is usually included automatically on restaurant bills, so no need to calculate extra unless you want to reward exceptional service. Currency : Chile uses the Chilean Peso (CLP), though US dollars are often accepted, especially in tourist spots. Weather : While Santiago sizzled in proper summer heat, Valparaíso greeted us with cool, misty mornings. Layers were a must!

Japan’s reputation as a world-class honeymoon destination is gathering pace - and not just because of the accelerating slide in the value of their yen. The Land of the Rising Sun is a country where the combination of ancient tradition and ultra modernity provides countless opportunities for romantic moments. It's an intoxicating location for newlyweds looking to explore somewhere unfamiliar and have a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Japan oozes with vibrance, charisma, craftsmanship, punctuality and social harmony. There’s very little that this country doesn’t do just a little bit better than everywhere else: food, design, trains, hospitality, cocktails, knives, whisky and even denim! It's a wacky, wild and fascinating place that’s simultaneously safe, approachable and welcoming. Quick Links: Tokyo Accommodation Shibuya Shinjuku Minato, Chiyoda & Ginza Ryogoku, Akihabara & Ochanomizu Bunkyo Nakano Asakusa Kyoto Accommodation Do/See Eat/Drink Osaka One day itinerary Hakone Accommodation Know Before You Go   Helpful information TOKYO Japan's capital is the country's beating heart and, in a lot of ways, a model city - the people are polite, crime rates are low, public transport is extensive and efficient, the streets are clean and pedestrian-friendly, car horns are used sparingly and there is a strong focus on sustainability and smart city initiatives. What really gives Tokyo an edge though is its thirst for novelty. This megacity is the land of endless discovery with its futuristic facade, immersive digital art installations, zany restaurant concepts and eccentric fashion. Tokyo offers a sensory overload that's as exciting as it is unusual. It is the largest metropolitan area in the world, made up of 37+ million people and 23 'special wards' (municipalities), each with its own distinct charm and attractions. To make the most of this expansive urban sprawl, I suggest basing yourself somewhere well connected and grouping sightseeing by district(s) each day. ACCOMMODATION: One of the few things that I was not impressed by in Japan was the hotels, particularly at their distorted market rates . They were all clean and mostly comfortable, but very small and basic. In Tokyo, we stayed at the Shibuya Stream Hotel , which was conveniently located within a mixed-use skyscraper, with an event hall, 30 restaurants/bars and office space (Google occupied floors 14-35). It was directly connected to the C2 exit of Shibuya Station on the subway/Tokyu lines and to JR Shibuya Station's new south exit, making it very easy to get around. I wouldn't necessarily recommend the hotel, but I would suggest staying in Shibuya if you're a first-time visitor. SHIBUYA: Shibuya is a bustling district known for fashion, entertainment, culture and commerce. Do/See: Hachikō Statue: Every evening, an Akita Inu dog (named Hachikō) would wait for his owner at Shibuya Station. Even after his master's death, the dog continued to wait every day, for ten years, until his own passing. The small bronze statue is now a symbol of devotion and commemorates the dog's unwavering loyalty. Shibuya Scramble Crossing: The world’s busiest pedestrian intersection sees up to 3,000 people crossing per green light (every 80 seconds). An estimated 1.5 million people cross the street here each week. It's incredible how smooth and orderly the flow of pedestrians is, despite the volume of foot traffic. Shibuya Sky : This 46-floor observation deck normally provides spectacular sights of the area with a 360° view. The day we went, however, was grey and rainy and visibility was terrible. Buy tickets in advance to skip the line. If the weather isn't nice when you've booked, you can opt to receive a refund. Eat/Drink: Gyoza no Ohsho (literally the 'King of Gyoza'): The specialty is crisp, delicious dumplings, sold six pieces per plate, for just 240 yen (~£1.22). Reservations are not accepted. Han no Daidokoro Bettei Shibuya Branch : Offers sumptuous yakiniku (Japanese BBQ), serving two of Japan's finest cuts of beef: Kobe and Yamagata. Book in advance. Din Tai Fung Shibuya Scramble Square : This popular Taiwanese dim sum chain restaurant is located one floor below the Shibuya Sky. The signature dish is xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) and they are as good as everyone says. The SG Club - Featured on The World's 50 Best list, this sexy bar is a fine place to sip or guzzle a fancy cocktail. SHINJUKU: Considered by many to be the city center of present-day Tokyo. It's a lively and crowded district, with the world's busiest train station. This major commercial and administrative area, by day, becomes a vivid entertainment district at night. Do/See: 3D Cat Billboard: Installed in 2021, this billboard has gained Internet stardom and won a bunch of design/advertising awards. The calico cat appears on the screen between various other advertisements throughout the day. It also materializes for a longer animation sequence once every 15 minutes. It is a point of interest on Google Maps, making it easy to find, but using the East Exit gates at Shinjuku Station will help you find it quicker. Godzilla Head: This prominent landmark has been located atop the Shinjuku Toho Building since 2015. The statue's eyes light up and it roars and emits smoke every hour from 12pm to 8pm.  Samurai Restaurant : This is a hyper-stimulated cabaret show that is a bit gimmicky and tacky but also entertaining. If you want a neon-lit, pop culture, 'only-in-Tokyo' smack in the face, this is the show for you. It features a variety of cultural cliches including samurai vs ninja sword battles, dancers in revealing samurai armor, shrine maidens and demon-themed floats. I suggest securing tickets in advance, so you don't risk a sellout. Be sure to bring your passport/ID (a digital copy is okay) as the staff will verify that you’re 18+. Eat/Drink: Golden-Gai: Comprised of 290 tiny bars squeezed into a network of six alleyways, this is a bar-hopping paradise for people who enjoy an intimate nightlife atmosphere. T he buildings are just a few feet wide and can only fit five or so customers at a time. Most are two-stories, having a small bar at street level and another upstairs, reached by a steep set of steps. A few establishments discouraged tourists with 'no foreigners' signs, but most were welcoming. We particularly liked Plage and Open Book . Omoide Yokocho: Known as 'Memory Lane', this nostalgic alleyway houses roughly 80 bite-sized izakaya (taverns) and yakitori (grilled skewers) joints serving some of the best street food in Japan. It had its roots in the chaotic period just after WWII when, amid the rubble and rebuilding of Tokyo, a bustling black market sprung up with vendors selling hard-to-obtain food, drinks and daily necessities. Over time, these makeshift stalls have evolved into more permanent eateries. MINATO, CHIYODA & GINZA: These three adjacent areas are often associated with high-end residences, business headquarters, politics, luxury and designer boutiques. Do/See: teamLabs Borderless : A world of interactive digital artwork installations without a map. The concept is to immerse you in one continuous world, without boundaries. Buy tickets in advance, go early in the AM and don’t wear a short dress/skirt because the floors are mirrored in many of the rooms. Tokyo Tower : Inspired by the Eiffel Tower, this structure stands 333 meters tall and was the tallest freestanding tower in the world when completed, in 1958. From the highest viewing deck, you can see Mt. Fuji on a clear day. Atago Shrine: This was not on my original itinerary, but I when noticed that the Imperial Palace was closed on Mondays, I had to pivot and this shrine was walking distance from the Tokyo Tower. After climbing the 86 'stone steps to success', we were rewarded with a tranquil environment where locals come to pray for professional success. Eat/Drink: Ginza Kagari : Nestled in a back alley of the Ginza district, you'll find this ramen gem. It is globally renowned and draws long lines of visitors from all over the world. First, you'll need to wait in the queue to the right of the front door. When it's your turn, you'll order and pay (credit card only). They will give you a receipt and then you must queue in the line to the left of the door to wait to be seated. The signature dish is Tori Paitan - a rich, creamy chicken-based broth made by simmering whole chicken and chicken bones for hours and it's worth the wait! Mint Ginza Rooftop : Located at the top of the Tokyu Plaza Ginza, this casual all-day cafe/bar is surrounded by greenery and skyline views. Bar High Five : This basement venue in glitzy Ginza has no menu. The bartenders ask for your preferred flavor profile and then whip something up for you. The combination of Japanese bartending techniques plus modified classic recipes has resulted in High Five being a regular in the World’s 50 Best list. The bar’s notoriety and small size means it is often busy and that you’ll likely encounter more Westerners than locals. JBA Bar Suzuki : Upstairs from Bar High Five, you'll find another famous bar that was founded in 1967 by the president of the Japan Bartenders’ Association (J.B.A.). The bar is traditional, modern and sophisticated, with a wide array of whiskies, a selection of original cocktails and jazz playing in the background. Sanshuya Ginza : This izakaya (tavern) is tucked away in a small alley in Ginza. They specialize in seafood and beer. It was an authentic and affordable, no-frills sort of place filled with locals and old-school charm. Nobody spoke any English. Several waitresses, speaking at the same time, in Japanese, told us what we would have and then dishes promptly started arriving. RYOGOKU, AKIHABARA & OCHANOMIZU: Each of these three neighborhoods are located just a few minutes apart on the JR Chūō-Sōbu Line. Ryogoku is renowned for its connection to sumo; Akihabara for its electronics and anime and Ochanomizu is a popular district fo r bargain-conscious musicians and sportsmen. Do/See: Ryogoku Sumo Morning Practice Session : This tour allowed us to experience and appreciate the history and tradition of Japan's national sport by observing a morning training session at the Tokitsukaze stable . The tour was supposed to be two hours, but ended up being only about an hour, which was fine because we had to sit on the floor and be silent for the duration. There was a whole heap of rules (no shoes, no pointing bare feet at wrestlers, no talking, no sitting in the front row, no videoing, no eating/drinking) out of respect for the athletes. Akihabara Electric Town: Affectionately known as Akiba , this area of the city is famous for its densely packed buildings crammed full of anime, manga and gaming paraphernalia. It's a must-go spot for visitors who want to bask in geeky otaku culture. Guitar Street: This street, near Ochanomizu Station, is famous for new/used guitars and other musical gear. We ended up here to kill some time before the baseball game. Despite not being musically inclined, it was fun to walk around and look at all the pretty guitars. Eat/Drink: Syabu-Yō atre Akihabara 2 : Hidden on the 4th floor of the food hall outside Akihabara station, you'll need to hunt to find this place. Once you find this shabu shabu (Japanese hot pot) restaurant, seat yourself, order on the iPad and begin your 100-minute all-you-can-eat and drink session. A human will serve your broths, but your meats will be delivered by a cat-faced robot. Get all your drinks, veggies, noodles and sauces at the buffet. Finally, pay at the front counter. BUNKYO: Bunkyo is home to some of Tokyo's most important historical shrines and culturally significant gardens and landscapes, as well as the ultra-modern Tokyo Dome. Do/See: Baseball : If you can, I highly recommend catching a ball game at the very cool, indoor Tokyo Dome stadium. We watched the Yomiuri Giants annihilate the Chunichi Dragons 8 to 1, alongside 41,402 other fans. All Japan Pro-Wrestling : Located next to the Tokyo Dome, Kōrakuen Hall is a popular venue for professional wrestling, boxing and Mixed Martial Arts. We saw the Champion Carnival 2025 match. It was lively and loud and a whole lot of fun. NAKANO: This special ward is a popular spot for ramen and exploring retro Tokyo. Do/See: Nakano Broadway: This is a somewhat old-fashioned-looking mall where the top floors were claimed by anime/manga shops in the early eighties. Businesses here are generally small and focus on selling second-hand anime items, but you'll also find some impressive watch shops, like Jackroad , selling rare vintage timepieces and pet shops selling the tiniest of kittens and puppies. Additionally, there’s a vending machine selling insect snacks. Rumor has it that there’s a gachapon machine selling worn panties hidden somewhere in the complex, but I cannot confirm this. The alleys around Nakano Broadway are worth some time as well - they’re narrow and a bit dingy, with power cables running between buildings like vines, but there are plenty of cozy bars and restaurants to enjoy. ASAKUSA: Asakusa, often referred to as Old Tokyo, is known for its traditional atmosphere that transports you back in time. Do/See: Tokyo Skytree : This broadcasting and observation tower has been the tallest tower in Japan since opening in 2012. Given that we had already gone up the Shibuya Sky and the Tokyo Tower, we decided to skip the experience. I hear it's particularly beautiful in the evening though. Nakamise Street: The most famous shopping street in Asakusa runs for 250 meters on the main approach to Sensō-ji Temple and is lined on both sides with shops selling traditional souvenirs, snacks and sweets. Sensō-ji Temple : The oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo, dating back to AD 645. It draws visitors from around the world to admire its lavish main hall and imposing gates. It is considered a must-see on any visit to Tokyo, which also means it's completely overrun with tourists. Kappabashi Kitchen Street: About a 15-minute walk from the Sensō-ji Temple area, you'll find 160 shops selling everything from high-end Japanese knives, plastic food samples, crockery and other kitchen-related goods. Eat/Drink: Noura : The most famous French restaurant in Asakusa is Hommage , which has earned two Michelin stars. Affiliated with and located right behind Hommage is Noura which literally means 'behind'. On the Michelin Guide's Bib Gourmand list, Noura is a great little French bistro, which is a more casual and affordable experience than Hommage. Vineria Il Passaggio: This cozy, cash only wine bar serves its natural and organic wines in seashells. KYOTO From Tokyo Station, we took the Tokaido Shinkansen Line to Kyoto Station. With speeds up to 200 MPH, the bullet train took only two hours and fifteen minutes. We opted for the Mount Fuji seats (seats D & E) so we'd have a chance of seeing the majestic snow-capped volcano about 40-minutes into the journey. Make sure to reserve luggage when you book your train tickets, if you have oversized suitcases (bigger than a carry-on bag). Unlike Tokyo's fast-pace, neon lights and skyscapers, Kyoto is more calm and tranquil, with its network of alleyways, gardens, temples, traditional architecture, mountains and forests. ACCOMMODATION: Although Kyoto is roughly a third of the size of Tokyo, it's still quite large and choosing where you want to stay is a big decision. We opted for convenience and tradition over luxury and ended up at Kyoto Granbell Hotel in the Gion District ( renowned as being one of the most iconic and atmospheric areas of town). I would highly recommend the location, but maybe not the hotel. DO/SEE: Explore Gion: K nown for its traditional wooden machiya houses, narrow alleyways, cobblestone streets and preservation of geisha (AKA geiko) culture. Lining the main street are ochayas (teahouses where geishas/geikos entertain), small shops and countless tiny eateries and bars. Gion Corner Show : This 50-minute show at the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theater provides an opportunity to enjoy several traditional performing arts on one stage. The program includes a tea ceremony, music, flower arrangement, dance and comedy. If you opt for premium seats, you'll get a digital tablet with additional information and English translations. Fushimi-Inari Taisha Shrine : We got up at 5am to get to the shrine just before 6am, to beat the crowds. We were rewarded with a peaceful and spiritual experience. The shrine is made up of thousands of vermilion torii gates lining a path leading up Mount Inari. Each gate has been donated by individuals or companies as an offering to the shrine. The names and dates of the donations are inscribed on the back of the gates. Nishiki Market : This narrow, five-block-long marketplace in downtown Kyoto is lined with more than 100 stalls/restaurants and was insanely overcrowded. It was so packed that we couldn't stop anywhere nor try anything. According to Lonely Planet and the Japan National Tourism Organization, the best time to visit is between 10:00 and 11:00 AM, right when it opens. Shūsui-tei Teahouse: This historical landmark was built about 200 years ago and is located in the southwest corner of the beautiful I mperial Palace Park. Arashiyama Bamboo Forest: This is another one of Kyoto's top spots and is best to visit early in the AM, before the crowds. We arrived at 7am. The trail through the beautiful bamboo grove is short (only 0.3 miles one-way), but it's an enchanting and magical experience! Kameyama-koen Park (next door to the Bamboo Forest): From the top, you will be able to enjoy excellent views of the Arashiyama Mountains and the Hozugawa River. Afterward, walk down to the Katsuragawa River. Kimono Forest of Arashiyama : The lesser-known forest in Arashiyama is not actually a forest at all, but rather a colorful art installation. At the Kimono Forest, you'll find a collection of 600 clear acrylic cylinders, each standing 2 meters tall, wrapped with vibrant kimono fabrics. It’s recommended to visit at dusk so you can see the pillars illuminated by LED lights. Sagano Romantic Train : This sightseeing train line runs along the Hozugawa River, between Arashiyama and Kameoka. The charming, old-fashioned train winds its way through the mountains at a slow pace, taking about 25 minutes to make the seven-kilometer journey and giving passengers beautiful scenic views. One of the ways to get back from Kameoka to Arashiyama is to take a river cruise , which is what we intended to do, but it was too windy and cold for a two-hour boat ride, so instead we took a quick train. Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama : An amazing chance to get close to cute, free-roaming snow monkeys (Japanese macaques). You must buy tickets at the gate; they can't be bought in advance. It'll cost you 800 yen per adult, to be paid in cash. EAT/DRINK: Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera Kyoto : This is a sushi bar, where the sushi is served on a conveyor belt. The restaurant offers a variety of sushi and other dishes, with a focus on fresh ingredients and a fun atmosphere. Mouriya Gion : This restaurant served up some of the best Kobe beef in Japan, Teppanyaki style. It was, by far, the most expensive meal we had on our honeymoon, but was well worth it. We had top-notch service, premium food and a cozy ambiance. Gion Duck Rice: This restaurant features a unique emoji-based menu, and the whole setup was more like a science experiment than a lunch. Lots of explaining was necessary, which the staff handled well, with great English. The rice was covered with a generous layer of low-temperature cooked duck and served with three spices (grape sansho, yuzu and homemade black shichimi). The broth for ochazuke (rice with green tea) is made by boiling bonito by yourself using a dripper. The food and sake were a delight. Giro Giro Hitoshina : A non-traditional kaiseki (multi-course dinner emphasizing seasonal ingredients) restaurant offering with only kaunta seki (counter) seating around an open kitchen. I had no idea what I was eating but most of it was delicious. You must book in advance. Pontocho Kappa Sushi : Located on one of the cutest alleyways in Kyoto, Pontocho, this sushi restaurant was a great find - yummy, fresh and affordable. Kyoto Gion Okaru: A low-key udon restaurant in Gion popular with local geiko (geishas) and maiko (geishas in training). It's cheap and good. They do not take reservations and there is often a queue. enen Gyoza: Be prepared for the whole staff at this tiny eatery to simultaneously greet you with a hearty irasshai (welcome) when you enter. Also, the gyoza is awesome! Hirobun Nagashi Somen (flowing noodles): We took a taxi to Hirobun in Kibune, Kyoto, but it is possible to take the train. From 1st May to the end of September, you can enjoy the cold noodle flowing from a bamboo chute, between 11am and 4pm, on days when it's not raining. First you need to wait in a line to get a number and pay 2,000 yen each, in cash. Then you'll go down the stairs to a lower waiting area, where you'll have to remove your shoes and sit on a mat. When your number matches the number on the blackboard, you'll move to the upper deck waiting area (also a shoe-off area). 10 people catch noodles at a time, for 15 minutes. There is a 5-minute gap between groups for cleaning and setting up. You have your own lane, based on where you're seated. The noodles come out slow enough to catch in your chopsticks but frequently, so eat quickly. (THISIS)SHIZEN : The prettiest ice cream in Kyoto - possibly the world! This place has gained popularity because of its artistic ice cream cones which resemble intricate flower bouquets. The flower choices change seasonally. Bar Alchemist : If you can find this speakeasy, hidden behind a bookshelf, then you'll be in for a treat. The atmosphere is cozy and the bartenders are skilled and attentive. Rinken : We stumbled across this tiny bar accidentally, but were delighted to meet Master Ken, who amused us with his charm and cheeky banter and provided recommendations as well as a history lesson. The bar could only hold about seven patrons at a time and space is limited that each seat had its own door. Hello Dolly : Amongst the many bars and restaurants in the historic Pontocho alleyway, you'll find this darling, dark jazz and whisky joint overlooking the Kamo River. UE Rooftop Bar: If it's a nice day and you want some views or a nice evening and you want to experience a sunset, then UE Rooftop is the spot. OSAKA If Tokyo is the brain of Japan and Kyoto is the heart, then Osaka is the stomach. Known as 'Japan's kitchen', Osaka is home to mouth-watering seafood and other delicacies . Unfortunately, we only spent one day in Osaka, which was not nearly enough to even scratch the surface but below are the highlights that I recommend for a one-day visit. If you're visiting Osaka, from Kyoto, on a holiday or a weekend, I advise taking the Kyo-Train Garaku , operated by Hankyu Railway. Each carriage of this elegant train is decorated with a beautiful, seasonal motif. Leaving out of the Kyoto-kawaramachi station and arriving at Osaka-umeda, the journey takes about 45-minutes one way. In Kyoto, the train departs from track 2, which appears between tracks 1 & 3 if you keep walking, like something out of Harry Potter. Arrive early to get a window-facing bench seat in either car 3 & 4. You can't pre-book and seats are all unreserved. Passengers pay the standard fare that they would between the two cities and can use their normal travel card (Suica, IC, etc.) for this special train. Umeda is Osaka's business district. Walk about 10-minutes from Osaka-umeda Station to the Umeda Sky Building . The Kuchu Teien Observatory connects the East and West Towers on the 39th, 40th and rooftop floors. Take in the Osaka cityscape with a bird’s-eye view from the 360-degree open air rooftop. After, walk to Osaka Station, take the JR Osaka Loop Line to Osakajokoen Station and walk another 20 minutes to Osaka Castle. This castle is one of Japan's most famous and historic landmarks and played a major role in the unification of Japan during the sixteenth century. Osaka Castle Park, surrounding the castle, provides citizens and visitors with a peaceful haven in the middle of the bustling city. Retrace your steps back to Osakajokoen Station, jump back on the JR Loop Line (make sure you're heading in the correct direction) and alight at Shin-Imamiya Station, which will land you in the Shinsekai District. Allow Google Maps to direct you to Janjan Yokocho Alley, which is one of Osaka's more colorful, energetic and chaotic neighborhoods. After you get your fill of bright lights, lanterns, oversized buddhas, retro signboards and life-sized food displays head back to Shin-Imamiya Station, take the Nankai-Koya Line to Namba Station and explore Dotonbori, Osaka’s entertainment district. Make your way to Shin-Osaka Station to take the Tokaido Shinkansen train back to Kyoto (last train is 10:30pm I believe), which takes about 13 minutes. Note that this bullet train leaves and arrives at different stations than the Kyo-Train Garaku (Shin-Osaka station to Kyoto Station). I purchased non-reserved seat tickets, one-way, in advance, through SmartEx , which allowed us the flexibility to take any train. HAKONE The final stop on our Japan honeymoon tour was Hakone. Part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, less than one hundred kilometers from Tokyo, Hakone is a famous resort area full of onsen (natural hot springs) and known for its views of nearby Mount Fuji. You can get to Odawara (Hakone), from Kyoto Station, on a two-hour bullet train. It was absolutely pouring during our journey, which led to flooding on local train lines/streets and limited the number of available taxis/Ubers. We had to wait over an hour at the train station for a taxi to take us on the 40-minute journey to our hotel, Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu . This hotel was a sanctuary. All rooms have their own private open-air baths, there's free sparkling wine on tap, a heated footbath and they offer hair straighteners. The rate we paid included breakfast and dinner. The first night we enjoyed shabu shabu and the second was Teppanyaki - both delicious. I had intentions of doing some sightseeing, but our hotel was so lovely, and we were feeling quite zen, so we decided to just hang out for the final few days and rest up ahead of our 14.5-hour flight home. If we had one more full day, I'd have hired a driver to take us to around to the nearby cable car, Lake Ashi for a pirate ship cruise, and to see the Hakone Shrine and Chisuji Falls. I guess we'll just have to go back another time! Japan stands as an enigmatic paradise that captivates the soul and leaves an indelible mark on every traveler fortunate enough to step onto its shores. Exploring this breathtaking country is not just a journey; it's an awakening to the wonders of an entire universe within a single nation. What more could a couple ask for from a honeymoon destination!? KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Planning : This country has so many gems that you couldn’t uncover them all on multiple trips. My advice is to admit defeat before you even start and recognize that you can't do everything. Pick what's most important and create an itinerary from there. Reservations : Spontaneity is fun, but many things need to be pre-booked in Japan or else you're likely to miss out or spend much of your time waiting in queues. I found that I could only book restaurants, shows, trains and other tickets between two weeks and one month in advance. Also, I had to pre-pay, at time of booking, for most of our reservations. Operating Hours : When planning, pay attention to opening hours. Many places are closed at least one day a week - some on Mondays, some on Wednesdays. We found that most bars didn’t open until 5pm and many restaurants are closed 2-6pm. Airports : If you can, I suggest arriving at Haneda Airport (HND), rather than Narita (NRT), as it is much more convenient. Arrival into Japan : I pre-registered our trip, online , so we could scan a QR code instead of having to fill out the customs/landing forms (instructions for setting your account up are here ) . After you land and deplane, you'll line up for immigration. About halfway through the queue we used the kiosks for customs declaration and verification (follow the instructions on the screen). After immigration, we collected our suitcases at baggage claim and then cruised through customs with facial recognition. Airport Transfers : I arranged car service to/from the airport, both ways. I used Booking.com upon arrival into Tokyo and Blacklane for our departure from Hakone. Both were smooth and easy processes. Plugs : The outlets are the same as they are in the US, but voltage is different, so you might not need a plug adaptor, but you might need a converter. Japan's standard voltage is 100V, compared to North America (120V) and most of Europe (230 V). My UK nor US hair straightener would work at all. I suggest bringing a cordless one or buying one there. Tipping : They don’t tip, and you shouldn’t try. It’s not secretly charming, it’s awkward and makes people uncomfortable. Trash : For a clean city, Japan has surprisingly few public garbage bins. This is because people carry their trash home and sort it properly, following Japan’s strict recycling rules. Reading : In traditional Japanese writing, text is typically read vertically, from top to bottom, and then right to left, with each new column starting on the left. Slurping Noodles : Unlike in many other cultures, slurping your noodles loudly in Japan is a sign of enjoyment and appreciation for the meal! Fake Food Displays : Replica food is a billion-yen industry in Japan. Many restaurants use sampuru (realistic plastic food models) to show customers what the dishes look like before they order. Expect the Unexpected : You can walk into a subway station and find a Michelin-star restaurant. Many cool bars and intimate restaurants are tucked away on various floors within office buildings. In the US or UK, it would feel like you were getting your teeth cleaned or visiting your accountant, but in Japan 'office bars' are quite common. Getting Around : One of the biggest hurdles for first-time travelers is Tokyo’s railway system. Thankfully, each station has signs in English, and Google Maps is very reliable - it even tells you the platform, which carriage to be in, entrances/exits and prices. Add Suica card to your Apple wallet ahead of time (start with 3k JPY). To use Suica, you don’t even need to double tap/use face recognition, just tap it on many lines/special trains across Japan, not just in Tokyo. You cannot use it on the bullet trains though. Taxis : You can set up GO taxi hailing app, once you have arrived in Japan. Or you can just use Uber, which is what I opted for. Escalator Etiquette :  In Tokyo, people stand on the left and walk on the right, while in Osaka, it’s the opposite! Change Purse : As Japan is largely still a cash-based society, although many places are cashless entirely as well, bring a change purse. You'll end up with lots of coins. ATMs : 7-11 (7 Bank) is the best for fee-free ATM withdrawals. Language & Customs : Everyone is so friendly and helpful, but English is a challenge and not widely spoken. People generally bow instead of shaking hands. Bowing also means “thank you” and “sorry.” Making an X with fingers or arms means 'no, we’re closed' or 'there are no seats available'. Greetings & Good Byes : Most restaurants in Japan will greet you with a loud irasshai ( welcome) that will be echoed by the entire staff. This happens when you leave too, with arigatou gozaimashita (thank you for coming). At some shops, the staff will walk you all the way out of the building. Cover Charges : Many bars, terraces, and some restaurants will charge a fee of 300-700 yen per person. Golden Week : This is a collection of four Japanese national holidays that occur within a seven-day period in late April and early May. It is one of the busiest travel periods in Japan. Expect more crowded transportation, fully booked accommodations and higher prices. Bookings are necessary for trains, hotels and attractions. Footwear : Wear socks and make sure they don't have holes. You'll have to take shoes off in a lot of places (bars/restaurants/sumo/anywhere with tatami mats ) and bare feet are considered rude as are flip flops. Vending Machines : They're everywhere. Every street corner has one, and there are even some on hiking trails, near shrines and even at other locales where food/drink are forbidden! Apart from selling your regular cans of soda, in Japanese vending machines you can find anything from ties and pizzas to eggs, canned bread and wigs for dogs.

Traveling is about more than just seeing new places; it’s about expanding your culinary canvas, tasting flavors and experiencing cultures, one dish at a time. There are restaurants all over the world successfully combining palate and palette. In no particular order, below is my shortlist for eateries that are as beautiful and memorable as they are mouth-watering. Manda de Laos in Luang Prabang, Laos - Dine day or night, surrounded by a UNESCO-classified lotus pond. You'll feel immersed in a tropical fairy-tale. The Laotian family cuisine is as delectable as the ambience, making this a truly special spot. La Plongeoir in Nice, France - This restaurant, situated on two pillars of rock, occupies an iconic location in the French Riviera. Enjoy fresh, locally-sourced, gourmet, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine whilst perched six meters above the sea. Grotto Palazzese in Polignano A Mare, Puglia, Italy - An exclusive, magical and enchanted space located within a natural cave, overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Although the food wasn't as good as it should have been for the price, the wine, live saxophone and cliffside atmosphere made up for it. Amante in Ibiza, Spain - This three-tiered hideaway haven captures the essence of Ibiza, with a modern, natural decor and dramatic views of Sol d'en Serra bay and Formentera. The award-winning kitchen produces exquisite food and the cocktails are amongst the best on the island. QP Bistro in St. James, Barbados - Nestled along the idyllic and picturesque West Coast of Barbados, this restaurant boasts magnificent views and lots of hanging plants. Go here to indulge in the perfect blend of gastronomy, Caribbean delights and live entertainment. Good food, good vibes. Hirobun in Kibune, Kyoto, Japan - From May to the end of September, this is the only restaurant in Kibune that offers nagashi somen (flowing noodles). Perched just above the river’s surface, you'll find this Insta-popular kawadoko (river dining) restaurant where you catch cold noodles with chopsticks as they float down a bamboo chute. It wasn't the most filling nor rich meal I've ever had, but it was one of the more fun and interactive ones. Dinner on Deck 5 of the M/V Sea Spirit , in Antarctica , with icebergs all around and whales cruising by, was the ultimate combination of adventure and indulgence. The BBQ was pretty darn good as well.

2025 was packed with unforgettable memories. Some of the greatest hits included honeymooning in Japan, waddling alongside penguins in the Great White South, finally ticking off a long-postponed road trip around Bulgaria, attending the Wimbledon men's finals and making serious progress toward becoming a dual citizen. It was truly a blockbuster year! Read on for the highlight reel. JANUARY Most of my January 1sts kick off the same way: groggy, dehydrated and boarding a flight home from wherever I rang in the New Year the previous night. This year I tried something completely different. I booked a solo spa break in Jersey (the Channel Island, not the US state), and spent 48 blissful hours doing very little, apart from being pampered. Wrapped in a robe, I rotated between massages, facials and saunas and let the weight of 2024 dissolve into steam and essential oils. I feasted on scallops and oysters and stockpiled sleep like it was currency. This ultra short-haul island escape left me clear-headed, relaxed, restored and rejuvenated for the year ahead. Colmar, France felt like stepping into a perfectly preserved fairy tale. With its storybook half-timbered houses, winding canals and quaint stone bridges, every corner of the town looked like it had leaped straight from a postcard. Colmar was an idyllic home base for exploring the Alsace region, especially if you appreciate charming accommodations, rich regional cuisine and world-class viticulture. FEBRUARY I was hoping for some winter sun when I headed down to Destin, but Mother Nature had other plans. Known for its sugar-white sand beaches, emerald-green waters and playful dolphins, this part of the Florida Panhandle didn’t disappoint. Despite the cooler temps and persistent precipitation, I had a wonderful time making memories with my family! MARCH It's hard to find a country with more love in it than Slovenia - literally. No other country has 'love' in its name. And this nation doesn’t just celebrate Valentine’s Day (February 14th), but also Lovers’ Day (March 12th). I visited over Lover's Day weekend and Slovenia's beautiful landscapes, charming villages, booming culinary scene, unique wines and hospitable population completely captured my heart. I was all set to surprise one of my closest friends at her engagement party in Washington, D.C., when a fire at Heathrow brought everything to a halt. The blaze knocked out power and shut down the entire airport for a full day, unleashing global travel chaos. I later found out the disruption cost British Airways a staggering $56 million. APRIL Half of April was spent honeymooning in Japan , an enigmatic paradise that captivates souls and leaves an unforgettable mark on every traveler fortunate enough to step onto its shores. Exploring this breathtaking country wasn't just a journey, it was an awakening to all of the nation's wonders and delights . Highly recommended as a honeymoon destination! MAY After five years of trying to make it happen, my Bulgaria road trip finally became a reality. COVID forced a cancellation initially, but then life kept throwing curveballs in the years that followed. Bulgaria was definitely worth the wait! It was a true Balkan gem, bursting with stunning landscapes that ranged from ancient rock formations and cascading waterfalls to quaint cities and pink lakes. JUNE June 21st wasn’t just the summer solstice this year, it was my friend’s bachelorette party in Paris, right in the middle of Fête de la Musique . The city was bursting at the seams, easily four times more crowded than usual, and the heat was no joke, but a great time was had by the whole gang! The following weekend was the wedding celebration, in Toulouse, France. It was a beautiful affair, held at a stunning château, filled with love, laughter and unforgettable memories. JULY Seeing the Wimbledon Men's Final was a true bucket list moment! And what a match!  Under the sweltering summer sun, Centre Court buzzed with energy. The crowd was on edge for every rally, rising to their feet as Jannik Sinner battled past Carlos Alcaraz in a thrilling rematch of their French Open showdown. The heat was intense, but the excitement was even hotter. A weekend in Porto, Portugal with my high school girlfriends was an absolute blast. We cruised along the Douro River, went wine tasting, feasted on incredible food, caught some live music and laughed for hours over old memories and new gossip. It was one of those trips that filled my heart (and my camera roll). AUGUST I remained in London all month, as I went through the process of applying for UK settlement. After eleven years of living here, my application for Indefinite Leave to Remain was approved, meaning I no longer required a visa to work in the country. It was an emotional, long-awaited milestone. Without hesitation, I submitted my application for British citizenship the very next day, ready to take the final step toward making the UK my permanent home. Spoiler:  My British citizenship application was approved in November, though I had to postpone the ceremony/getting my passport until January 2026. Although I didn’t travel abroad, I did treat myself to a countryside escape for a relaxing spa break. My friend and I enjoyed delicious meals, rejuvenating treatments and plenty of much-needed girlie time. SEPTEMBER I flew to Snowmass Village, Colorado, to celebrate the wedding of one of my nearest and dearest friends. The high altitude and dramatic shifts in temperature certainly kept things interesting, but nothing could dampen the joy of the occasion. We hiked through the stunning Maroon Bells, explored Aspen and danced the night away under the stars. My time in the United States continued after Colorado. I spent a week in Boston, reconnecting with friends, spending quality time with my niece/nephew and celebrating my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary. OCTOBER Just three weeks before Bodrum, Türkiye would shut down for the season, I squeezed in a final hurrah. I spent four days out on the water, soaking up the sun, enjoying Turkish delights and fully embracing the laid-back coastal vibe before the town went quiet for next six months. The celebrations for my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary continued a month later, in Paris. My husband and I took the Eurostar over for a weekend getaway to join them, making more special memories in one of the most romantic cities in the world. The final weekend of October was spent in Belfast, Northern Ireland, with fellow Travelers’ Century Club members. The city was rich in history, and we had the opportunity to learn a great deal about The Troubles , but the private lunch at Stormont (Parliament) was the true highlight. NOVEMBER As always, I returned to the United States for Thanksgiving to spend time with friends and family and to remind myself of all that I have to be thankful for. DECEMBER Argentina was the first destination of my 3.5-week end-of-the-year trip. My parents and I began in Buenos Aires and then continued south to Ushuaia, fondly known as the End of the World . I had visited Buenos Aires once before, 14 years ago, so it was a pleasure to return and see it again with fresh eyes. Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city, was a charming town surrounded by striking natural beauty, complete with a historic railway and delicious king crab. It also served as our gateway to Antarctica. After years of fantasizing, months of planning and endless saving, I finally set foot on the seventh continent. Antarctica was a thrilling polar expedition unlike anything I had experienced before. I’ll never forget the sneezing penguins, honking like confused donkeys; the thunderous cracks of calving icebergs; the explosive blows of whales; and the vast, unspoiled white horizons of this frozen wonderland. The final stop of the year was Chile , a brand-new country for me. We experienced a rich mix of cities and landscapes, traveling through Santiago, the Andes, Valparaíso, and Concón. That’s a wrap on my 2025 travels. Onward to planning 2026 and checking off the next adventures. Out with the old and in with the new! STATS FROM 2025 TRAVELS: Trips: 16 Flights: 36 Air Miles Flown: 60,630  ( 2.4 x around the world)   Flight Time: ~ 6 days  Hours Lost from Delays: 5 (plus several cancellations) Airlines Flown: 9 Airports Visited: 26 Total Countries/Territories Visited: 13 New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 4   Continents Visited: 5   (North America, South America, Antarctica, Asia   & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hired Accommodation: 74

When the clock struck midnight on 1st January 2001, I was in Montreal, Canada and did not yet know that a tradition spanning over two decades had begun. I have spent New Year's Eve in a different city and/or country for the past 27 celebrations/26 years. Moving slightly south from Canada, but sticking to North America, the first chunk of my New Year's Eve tour began in Texas. 2001-2002: Blanco, Texas . The night was spent in a barn, two-stepping to Tupac, eating BBQ and drinking cheap booze from an ice-filled horse trough. Does it get any more Texas than that? 2002-2003: Las Vegas, Nevada. Having just returned from a semester abroad in Sydney, it seemed appropriate to celebrate New Year's Eve with the boys from Australia's Thunder from Down Under. 2003-2004: Washington D.C. No politics were discussed and no fireworks were seen in my nation's capital, but a good time was had by all. 2004-2005: Boston, Massachusetts. We pahtied like only Bostonians do and had a 'wicked pissah!' In 2005, I moved from the east coast to California and the next batch of celebrations took place in the great Golden State. 2005-2006: San Diego, California. A group of us rang in 2006 at the Big Night San Diego gala held at the Hilton San Diego Bayfront. 2006-2007: Lake Tahoe, California. It was a white New Year's Eve. There was skiing and broomball in the daytime. At night we warmed up by dancing and toasting to 2007. 2007-2008: San Francisco, California. On 30th December 2007, two of my best friends and I decided to head to Napa to buy some bubbles for the next night's festivities. On this innocent endeavor we ended up drinking more than we bought. New Year's Eve day was a bit of a struggle, but we managed to get out of bed and put on dresses. If I remember correctly, we all fell asleep well before the clock struck 12am. 2008-2009: Los Angeles, California. What a truly gnarly and rad party it was! In 2009, I broadened my horizons, internationally, and have rung in the new year in a different country ever since (apart from during that wretched pandemic in 2020). 2009-2010: Derbyshire, England. This celebration was quintessentially British, celebrated in a traditional Victorian gastropub, in the historic village of Repton (which was basically Hogwarts). 2010-2011: Prague, Czech Republic. The evening was spent at a stylish cocktail venue, called Bugsy's Bar , adjacent to Prague's most renowned high-end shopping street. The mixologists were talented and the champagne was vintage. 2011-2012: Punta del Este, Uruguay. We wined and dined our way into 2012 at Boca Chica Carnes Asadas! 2012-2013: Cape Town, South Africa. The wind nearly blew us away, but we managed to hunker down for the countdown, at Zenzero , in Camps Bay. 2013-2014: Koh Phi Phi, Thailand. New beginnings were celebrated on a beach with fire jumping, neon body paint, buckets of booze, fireworks and non-stop music. 2014-2015: Madrid , Spain. The most famous Spanish New Year's tradition is to eat twelve grapes, one per second, for the first twelve strokes of the clock following midnight. This is meant to bring good luck for each of the upcoming year's months. *Top Tip: Choose grapes without seeds! 2015-2016: Valletta, Malta . Tucked between the bastion walls of Valletta was Rampila , the restaurant where we left 2015 and started 2016. After dinner, we took to the streets of Malta's capital to watch the display of pyrotechnics. 2016-2017: Kerala, India . In Kochi, Kerela, the Cochin Carnival takes place for ten days, ending on New Year's Day. It is famous for its colorful costumes, street parades, decorated elephants, music and dancing. On the night of 31st December, everyone heads to the beach. And I mean everyone. There were about 100,000 people there with me - probably 90% men and about 98% sober. At the stroke of midnight, the 37-foot Panaanji was lit on fire to resemble the end of the old year and birth of new (a 500-year-old tradition). 2017-2018: Porto , Potugal. Similar to Spain, in Portugal it is customary to eat twelve raisins, one by one, at midnight. Each raisin is said to bring you good luck for the months to come. I learned that raisins were less of a choking hazard and much easier to consume in quick succession than grapes. 2018-2019: Sal, Cape Verde . Unable to get a reservation, we arrived at PalmBeach Tropical Restaurant around 6pm to get a prime seat for sunset and fireworks. Celebrating the new year with your feet in the sand, seaside, with red wine and pizza was the way forward! 2019-2020: Vilnius , Lithuania. Slightly different to the previous year where there was warmth and sandy feet, this most recent New Year's was spent bundled up, as wet snow fell. After a hearty, delicious meal at Town Steakhouse , we popped outside, with our champagne in hand, to watch the fireworks over Cathedral Square. 2020-2021: Sutton, United Kingdom. COVID thwarted all international travel, so I got dressed up and celebrated at home, with my boyfriend. It wasn't a new country, but it was a new city for a NYE celebration, so my streak lived on. 2021-2022: Lanzorate , Canary Islands, Spain. Although COVID was still lurking, I managed to escape and meet one of my besties for an island getaway. New Year's wasn't a crazy celebration, but Lanzarote was a relaxing and fabulous start to a new year! 2022-2023: Muscat, Oman . Each year, New Year's Eve is celebrated with dancing, eating, drinking and watching fireworks on 31st December, per the Gregorian calendar. However, in Islamic countries this is not the case, as they follow the Muslim calendar. In Islamic Oman though, all the major hotels put on elaborate black-tie bashes, so the Westerners can party. 2023- 2024: Mexico City, Mexico . I ventured south of the US border to the tastiest destination in North America right now, to visit one of my dear friends from university, who also happens to be a very talented chef. On New Year's Eve, she prepared a six-course tasting menu for eighteen of us at a really cool space. What a tasty way to close out a year! 2023 - 2024 : Belgrade, Serbia . In 2024, I celebrated two New Year's Eves, two weeks apart. The second, Old New Year AKA Orthodox New Year was celebrated on 13th January, in Belgrade, Serbia. 2024 - 2025 : Jersey, Channel Islands . At the end of 2024, I was renewing my passport, so I was limited in where I could travel for NYE. I decided to have a relaxing spa break, in Jersey, so I'd kick off the year fresh and recharged. 2025 - 2026: Valparaíso , Chile . Valpo is the epicenter of New Year's Eve ( Año Nuevo ) celebrations in Chile. Its famous fireworks show, considered one of the largest in South America, lights up the entire bay beneath the moonlight. Cheers to another new year, everyone...And wishes for many more New Year's celebrations around the globe! #newyearseve #auldlangsyne #resolutions #montreal #canada #unitedstatesofamerica #usa #blanco #texas #lasvegas #nevada #washingtondc #boston #massachusetts #sandiego #california #laketahoe #sanfrancisco #losangeles #northamerica #derbyshire #england #unitedkingdom #uk #greatbritain #europe #prague #czechrepublic #puntadeleste #uruguay #southamerica #capetown #southafrica #africa #kohphiphi #thailand #asia #madrid #spain #valletta #malta #kerela #india #porto #portugal #sal #capeverde #vilnius #lithuania #sutton #lanzarote #canaryislands #muscat #oman #middleeast #valparaiso #valpo #chile

The six days before embarking on my Antarctic expedition were spent in Argentina - Buenos Aires then Ushuaia. I had visited BA once before, fourteen years ago, but it was a pleasure to return and rediscover the city after so many years away. Ushuaia, which was new to me, felt like a quaint outpost primarily serving travelers en route to Patagonia or the White Continent. With its alpine-Nordic feel and hiker- and backpacker-friendly charm, it seemed perfectly suited to its role as a gateway to the end of the world. Below are my recommendations for short stays in Buenos Aires and/or Ushuaia. BUENOS AIRES ACCOMODATION: I stayed at a boutique hotel on a charming street in Palermo Soho called Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa . The location was great, situated about 45-mins from the international airport (EZE) and 15-mins from the domestic airport (AEP). The hotel staff were warm and helpful, and the common areas were very pleasant. However, I found the rooms to be somewhat dated and on the smaller side. I would highly recommend staying in the same neighborhood but perhaps opt for a different hotel if you’re able to find a better option. DO: Wander around Palermo Soho : This neighborhood was home to some of the best street art in Buenos Aires along with cafés serving expertly brewed coffee, and an abundance of hip bars and restaurants. Pop into cafés, eat empanadas, browse the shops, visit the botanical gardens (free admission) and generally allow yourself to get lost. Who knows what you might see - perhaps even a parrot making off with a packet of mayo, if you're lucky!? Visit Recoleta: One of Buenos Aires’ more elegant and affluent barrios , Recoleta was filled with leafy streets, trendy cafés, luxury apartments, parks, museums and art galleries. Be sure to visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid, an opulent theater-turned-bookshop, before making your way to the famous cemetery, the final resting place of Eva Perón. The burial grounds felt like a city unto itself, complete with avenues, side streets and street signs. I highly recommend experiencing tango while in Buenos Aires, though not all shows are created equal. Skip Aljibe . I chose it because it started earlier than most, but it felt hokey, and the accordion-heavy soundtrack quickly became monotonous. On my previous visit, I went to the Rojo Tango Show at The Faena Hotel, which was sexy, passionate and mysterious, though undeniably expensive. Do a bit of research and find a show that suits your taste, but don’t leave the city without seeing tango performed live. CONSUME: Moshu Treehouse : Linger over breakfast or lunch in the leafy courtyard of this whimsical, treehouse-inspired café. Don Julio : One of the world’s most famous Michelin-starred steakhouses, Don Julio is a must when in Buenos Aires. Book online as far in advance as possible, as tables fill quickly. Arrive about 30 minutes prior to your reservation to enjoy complimentary champagne and empanadas while you wait. The steaks were enormous, though smaller cuts are available off-menu, if you ask. Parrilla Doña Tota: Known for its authentic Argentine barbecue, this popular steakhouse was decorated with football memorabilia celebrating Diego Maradona. It offered a vibrant atmosphere and great service for fans of both meat and football. For a meal that promised something a little different, we booked a Backyard BBQ . It was an eight-course menu at an authentic Argentine asado (meat cooked over an open fire/grill), paired with thoughtfully selected wines from local vineyards and accompanied by live music from local musicians. Unfortunately, a storm literally rained on our parade, and the event was cancelled. USHUAIA Affectionately referred to as 'the end of the world,'  Ushuaia is the where the map ends and adventure begins. The town was colorful and compact, framed by snow-capped mountains and lined with outdoor-gear and souvenir shops. It was a pleasant place to spend a few days, though there wasn’t a great deal to do beyond soaking up the scenery and preparing for onward adventures. ACCOMODATION: The only five-star option in Ushuaia was the Arakur Resort & Spa . Perched on a hill about 15 minutes from the city center, it offered spectacular views, excellent food and a luxurious spa. A complimentary shuttle to and from town made staying here both convenient and indulgent. DO: Book a half-day Tierra del Fuego tour with train . You’ll be mesmerized by the landscapes of the southernmost national park and get to ride the historic 'End of the World' train. Our group was small, with just 11 people, and we stopped at four scenic spots along the way. The tour ended with a shot of Licor Fino Legui, a traditional Argentine herbal liqueur made from sugarcane molasses and infused with herbs, caramel and citrus. At nearly 30% alcohol, it warmed us right up. If you have some free time to kill in Ushuaia, visit the Maritime Museum , located in the former penal colony. The complex also housed an Antarctic Museum and a Prison Museum, offering insight into the region’s harsh history and its legacy of maritime exploration. CONSUME: María Lola Restó : For delicious Argentine and Patagonian cuisine complemented by views of the city and port, this is a lovely spot for a meal. La Cantina De Freddy : An ideal spot for sampling fresh centolla  (king crab) in Ushuaia. The atmosphere was cozy, welcoming and perfectly suited to a relaxed, hearty meal. The Dublin - I’ve yet to visit a city that didn’t have an Irish pub, and Ushuaia was no exception. A stop at the southernmost Irish pub in the world feels imperative, even if only so you can say you’ve been. Next up: Antarctica ! KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas : On my previous visit to Argentina, a visa was required, but this time it was no longer necessary for U.S. passport holders. Always double-check entry requirements before you travel, as policies can change. Cash : You’ll mainly need cash for tipping and taxis. Avoid using ATMs and opt for a currency exchange instead. Your hotel can usually recommend a trustworthy one. Tipping : A 10% tip is standard for good service in restaurants. In most cases, tips must be given in cash. We were unable to add them to credit card payments in most places. Currency : The official currency was the Argentine peso, though U.S. dollars are also widely accepted. This can be confusing, as prices are typically written with a dollar sign ($) regardless of the currency. Always confirm which currency you’re being charged in. Additionally, commas were commonly used as decimal separators, instead of periods, which added to the confusion. Food : Portion sizes were enormous everywhere. Sharing dishes is highly recommended. Language : English was widely spoken, and we didn’t encounter any major communication issues. Taxis : I was advised to avoid local taxis, so I relied on pre-arranged drivers or Uber throughout my trip. Electricity : Argentina used both Type C (two-pin round European plugs) and Type I (Australian-style) outlets. The voltage was 220V, similar to most of Europe, so be prepared with the appropriate adapters and converters. Weather : Despite it being summer in both destinations, Buenos Aires was very hot while Ushuaia was bitterly cold—it even snowed. Be ready for all four seasons in a single day at the end of the world.

The beautiful Bodrum Peninsula sits on Türkiye ’s southwest coast, where the Aegean and Mediterranean seas meet. Once a quiet fishing village, Bodrum has transformed into a glamorous summer destination for wealthy Turkish holidaymakers, and more recently, a global hotspot attracting celebrities and the jet-set elite. From May to October, Bodrum buzzes with high-energy beach clubs, couture boutiques, opulent accommodations and world-class restaurants. But by 1st November, many of these businesses shut down as European charter flights and package holidays come to an end. There’s more to Bodrum than high-season hype though. Visiting in October, just as the crowds thin and the pace slows, offers a more relaxed experience of the Turkish Riviera. Getting around is easier, with far fewer tourists and an abundance of taxis. And the weather is milder, but still pleasantly warm and sunny. Despite some closures, there's still plenty to explore in Bodrum. Based on my experience, here are the best things to do when visiting this little slice of paradise in the shoulder season...  STAY: If you're looking for luxury, it doesn’t get better than The Bodrum EDITION . This chic resort features 110 guest rooms, suites and villas - most with sea views, private pools, balconies and gardens. Every room features custom furnishings and indulgent marble bathrooms. On the premise, there's a spa, fitness center, infinity pool, beach club, two bars, a night club, all-day casual dining venues and a Michelin-starred restaurant. You get around by buggy, which is fun. The resort is so well-equipped, you might not feel the need to leave, but if you do, here’s what I recommend... DO/EAT: Get a feel Bodrum's glitzy side at Yalıkavak Marina, where superyachts dock alongside designer boutiques and upscale beach clubs. Even though most places were already closed when I visited in early October, it's still a lovely spot to stroll at sunset and take in the views. Book a table at Sait , a seafood favorite (it was closed for a private event when I tried to go, but I've only heard great things). Yalıkavak is a 10-minute drive from the EDITION and 300 lira each way. For a completely different vibe, head to the laid-back village of Gümüşlük, often described as 'the untouched side of Bodrum.' It is unpretentious and perfect for a tranquil evening. Whilst there enjoy an authentic Turkish sunset dinner at Melengeç Balık Restaurant (they don't have a website, but the EDITION's concierge team can make a booking for you). Gümüşlük is about a 25-minute drive from the hotel, for 600 lira. Bodrum’s 175 kilometres of jagged coastline is home to dozens of stunning, impossibly blue coves, making it an ideal place to get out on a boat. What's App Ibrahim Kaptan Golkoy (+90 532 470 04 96) to arrange a private tour. He speaks limited English, but Google Translate does the job. He picked us up/dropped us off at our hotel, took us out on the boat for about seven hours and cooked us a lovely lunch - all for €350. He even threw in a free bottle of wine. October in Bodrum offers a quieter, more restful escape. It's still warm, still beautiful and with just enough happening to make it feel special. If you’re after peace, luxury and a taste of the Aegean without the summer chaos, visiting before Bodrum sleeps for the winter is the sweet spot that just might be the ticket. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visas : When I last visited Türkiye , I needed an eVisa, but this time, it was no longer required for trips up to 90 days. Always double-check before you travel though as things do change. Tipping : 10-15% for good service in restaurants, bars and hotels is customary and appreciated, especially in touristy areas . For smaller services, such as taxis or housekeeping, rounding up the bill or leaving a few small bills is a polite gesture.  Taxis : The hotel will arrange taxis for you. Note that they only accept cash. Most tourist spots have ATMs, but the EDITION will happily charge the fare to your room as well. Most popular tourist spots have designated taxi ranks to get you back to the hotel. Currency : Turkish Lira (TRY) is the local currency. Money : Be prepared for higher prices due to its popularity as a tourist destination.  Electricity : Türkiye uses 2-pin round European sockets, 220V voltage (same as most of Europe).

Although not easily accessible, a visit to Lake Ohrid (pronounced ock-rid) is definitely worthwhile! In my opinion, it's one of the most enticing destinations in the Balkans. The lake is the oldest and deepest in Europe and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. It’s absolutely beautiful, incredibly inexpensive and a great place to relax for a few days whilst immersing yourself into North Macedonian culture. It’s also relatively undiscovered compared to its Greek neighbor, making it an ideal retreat. GETTING THERE: It was easier/cheaper to fly direct from London into the Albania capital than to fly, with a layover, to either airport in North Macedonia (even though there is an airport in Ohrid). From Tirana, I organized a private transfer via Booking.com , in advance, to Lake Ohrid. The car journey took about 3.5 hours, including 30-minutes at the border, crossing between Albania and North Macedonia. Although we didn't spend much time in Albania, Tirana was surprisingly mountainous and modern. For a country that has had some stark years, I expected it to be dominated by grey concrete like other Post-Communist European cities. I might need to go back one day for a proper visit, but I digress... ACCOMODATION: In Lake Ohrid, I stayed at Villa Varosh - A boutique apartment-style lodging in the heart of the Old Town. It wasn't particularly modern, but it was clean, the staff were lovely and it had everything I could possibly have needed. I would recommend this hotel, but if I went again, I'd look to rent a lakefront villa/guest house in the Old Town instead. SEE/DO: Apparently every household in Ohrid makes their own wine. After years of practicing, a priest and an engineer decided to found Monastery Winery , in 2019. They now produce about 10k bottles/year. The Monastery Winery Tour I booked (for £30.31) started off with Stefan collecting us in Old Town. He drove us 25 minutes to a village with a population of 'eight old people'. The priest's son gave us a tour of the facilities and then we were served five full glasses of wine (2x white, 1x rose and 2x red), local cheeses and charcuterie, two types of rakija (brandy) and a shot of gin. At the end, Stefan got us home safely. No trip to Lake Ohrid would be complete without getting out on the water. I booked a one-hour private boat trip (for £23.30), in advance. Pre-booking was not necessary though. If you walk down to the Ohrid main harbor, there are tons of boats trying to sell you tours and I'm certain you can negotiate. I really wish I had booked a longer excursion; one hour was not enough. It was so peaceful and beautiful being on the lake. Because the tour was private, the captain was happy to drop us off at Cuba Libre Beach Club, instead of back at the Old Town. The rest of the day was spent at Cuba Libre Beach & Bar . I ate there, I drank there, I sunned myself there and I think I spent £35 in about six hours. You can't really spend money here, even if you try! For the most beautiful views of the lake, hike up the hill above the Church of Saint John the Theologian . After visiting Church of Saint John the Theologian, walk back along the man-made boardwalk. CONSUME: My favorite restaurant in Lake Ohrid Old Town was Restaurant Kajche . They have their own pier with unobstructed views of the lake. The service was great and the portions were generous. A few bottles of wine, some starters, two mains and a few sides all came to about £33 each. Be prepared for a lot of hungry cats to be hanging around, and begging. Located right on the water, Dolna Porta was a nice spot to enjoy your breakfast For fine dining, eat at Kaneo . From their terrace, you'll have views of one of the most famous sights - Church of Saint John the Theologian. it can get busy, so make a reservation for a lakeside table in advance. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Safety : The Republic of North Macedonia is one of the smallest and poorest countries in Europe, but it is perfectly safe for travelers, apart from maybe near the border with Kosovo. Petty crimes do exist, but they are rare. Visa : North Macedonia is not part of the EU nor the Schengen Zone, but a visa is not required for Europeans and many other foreign nationals. Currency : Since it's not part of the EU, North Macedonia does not use the Euro. Their currency is the Denar. Macedonia is arguably the cheapest country in Europe. When I went (July 2024) £1 GBP = 73 Macedonian Denars. Beaches : The lake is crystal clear and very clean, but its beaches are rocky. I suggest bringing water shoes. Transportation : There was no Uber and taxis were not plentiful, but there were water taxis. You can get to most places you'll need to go by foot. High Season : The majority of visitors come from around Macedonia itself or from neighboring countries. The shore of Ohrid is at its busiest in July and August - so don't come expecting an unspoiled paradise. #balkans #lakeohrid #ohrid #northmacedonia #republicofnorthmacedonia #europe

I had the good fortune of ringing in 2018 in Porto . The city was alive with energy and charm then and still is now. Returning felt like revisiting an old friend - familiar, nostalgic and an opportunity to rediscover a connection. Free from the pressure to see/do everything, this time I wandered further and dug a little deeper. Read on for recommendations on how to spend the perfect long weekend in this beautiful city. ACCOMODATION: I highly recommend staying at Hospes Infante Sagres , Porto's first five-star hotel (when it opened in 1951). In 2024, extensive refurbishments modernized the hotel's elegance and comfort whilst preserving its historical charm. It's located just steps from some of Porto’s most iconic attractions yet tucked away enough to feel like a peaceful retreat. Don’t miss the plunge pool area on the rooftop, perfect for cooling off or catching some rays on a hot day. TOURS: Guided tours are a great way to explore Porto’s beauty, soak up its culture and experience its welcoming atmosphere. Here are some tours to consider: Get your bearings and learn the lay of the land with a private walking tour . André led us around Porto’s UNESCO-listed historic center, from Clerigos Tower to Ribeira. He pointed out various landmarks and regaled us with stories and interesting anecdotes behind every tiled facade . Get out on the water with a Douro River Boat Cruise . This is a peaceful way to take in the city's architecture from a different perspective. Our cruise was intended to have seven people, but three no-shows meant we had the boat all to ourselves. Our guides, Ines and Antonio, were wonderful, hospitable and knowledgeable. For wine lovers, no trip to Porto is complete without tasting its namesake export. Be sure to make time for a full-day tour and tasting in the Douro Valley .  CONSUME: Porto’s culinary scene is a delicious blend of hearty tradition and fresh innovation. Whether you’re craving classic dishes or modern twists, these spots should be on your list: Brunch: Dubbed by the press as 'the God of the brunch', Zenith is an all day, everyday brunch spot. Its menu is diverse and creative with a mix of sweet and savory dishes like Oreo pancakes, French toast, eggs Benedict, Brazilian açaí and shakshuka . The portion sizes are generous and pair well with their delicious signature cocktails. Lunch: If you’re in the mood for some of the Atlantic’s bounty, Armazém do Peixe is an excellent choice. It's only about a three-minute walk to the marina, so it's an ideal option for lunch pre-boat ride. Also, they'll let you take bottles of wine to go, to bring with you on your cruise. For a taste of traditional Porto, we were directed to Cerca Velha to try their authentic Bifana sandwich ( marinated pork slices with a flavorful sauce on a soft roll ). While the sandwich absolutely delivered on flavor, the service left a bit to be desired. So we wandered across Largo da Pena Ventosa and ended up at Conte D’rei . The steak sandwich was insane, the cheeseboard was perfectly curated, the wine was cold and the service was genuinely friendly. It turned into one of our favorite lunch spots in the city. Highly recommend! Dinner: Cozinha das Flores is an absolute must. Helmed by acclaimed Chef Nuno Mendes (a friend of a friend), this restaurant celebrates northern Portuguese ingredients through inventive, open-fire cooking. The open kitchen adds an intimate, behind-the-scenes vibe, while the menu blends tradition with playful, contemporary twists. Every dish was stunning and mouth-watering. Drinks: Royal Cocktail Club is on the 50 Best list for a reason. It is a must for cocktail lovers. I was impressed by the creativity and presentation. Each drink is a work of art. Porto is the perfect place for a long weekend escape. In just a few days, you can stroll along the Douro River, sip world-class wine, admire tiled buildings and indulge in unforgettable food. Compact yet bursting with charm, Porto invites you to slow down and savor every moment. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Reservations : Porto has some truly excellent eateries, including over a dozen places listed in the Michelin guide. If you plan to enjoy a meal at one of the city’s celebrated restaurants, reserve several weeks in advance. Footwear : The hills and uneven pavement in Porto are sure to give your legs a workout. If you don't want to twist an ankle, leave the heels at home and make sure you bring good walking shoes. Weather : While on the cold Atlantic, Porto has a Mediterranean-like climate, with warm, dry summers and cooler, wetter winters. Bring layers, as the temperature can vary considerably. Tipping : Locals don’t tip at all or simply round up when paying for a meal or a taxi. In more tourist-oriented establishments a 10% tip is common though and may even be pre-added as a service charge. It is not expected to tip in cafés nor bars. However, if you’re in a high-end place, you should plan on leaving an additional €1–2 per specialty drink.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site town gave port wine its name, but the ceramic-tiled, pastel buildings built on the hills overlooking the Douro River give it its charm. It is the second largest city in Portugal, after Lisbon. You don’t need a lot of time to explore this city; a few days will do. I stayed in Ribeira, the oldest district of the city, in a lovely guest house with exposed stone walls and an old record player. It was about a five-minute walk to the famous Dom Luís I Bridge and the river promenade. There were only nine rooms in the guest house . The staff was helpful and wonderful. A bottle of champagne was left in my room to be enjoyed on New Year’s Eve, which I thought was a very nice touch! I busied myself most days pottering around the city with no real itinerary. It’s mild weather, hills, cobbled streets, colorful buildings and graffiti make for pleasant strolls and great photos. I walked across the Ponte Luiz I to the town on the other side, Gaia, for stunning views looking back at Porto. After walking up what seemed like 1,000,000 stairs, I stumbled upon the São Bento Station in Almeida Garret Square. It’s a nineteenth-century train station that has 20,000 tiles illustrating scenes from Portugal’s past. Also in this square, I spotted St. Anthony’s Congregados Church. I didn't find the Bolhão Market hugely exciting, but I did come across an odd street performance on the way out, which made it worthwhile for me. Yes that was a real bird on the kid's shoulder and a real chicken too. Rua das Flores is a busy, pedestrian street, good for cafes and shopping. Foz do Douro is slightly outside of the old town centre, but it’s a chic seaside area known for its beaches. Here, the Duoro River meets the Atlantic Ocean, which can be wild in winter. The waves were crashing along the breakers, spraying water higher than the lighthouse. Looking at the angry sea, you’d think a tropical storm was brewing, but in reality, it was a blue-skied, sunny, warm day. The sunsets viewed from Foz are also incredible! On 30th December, there was a 10K road race that was apparently quite a big deal. I was told that 15,000 people partook in the event and it felt like the remaining 201,000 of Porto's population was out supporting them. Between the turnout and the passion for the race, you'd have thought this was an Ironman. My New Year's eve was celebrated on a boat, cruising the Duoro River. For food, there were so many yummy hidden joints, all relatively inexpensive, but the following places stood out: Páteo das Flores - A modern wine bar set in an eighteenth-century manor house. It’s a juxtaposition of old and new that works really well. I recommend sitting in the glass-covered courtyard and eating all the truffle butter that they’ll give you. I had lunch here, but I think it would probably also be a suitable option for dinner as well. If you prefer to mainline carbs and coffee for brekkie you'll be in heaven in Portugal, but if you fancy a more substantial breakfast, wander over to The Traveller Caffé on Rua de Passos Manuel for eggs, hot chocolate and/or a smoothie. Don’t leave Porto without having a dinner at FLOW Restaurant . The ambiance was great, the staff were very good looking and friendly, the bar scene was vibrant and the food was delicious. For what you get, it’s very affordable as well. I would highly recommend the beef carpaccio, if you like that sort of thing. #porto #portugal #europe #douroriver #ribeira #ponteluiz #newyear39seve

My Bulgarian odyssey finally happened - five years and five itineraries later! Originally planned back in 2019, to travel in May 2020, COVID forced me to swap Bulgaria for banana bread baking. For the last half-decade, I have attempted to make this voyage every year, but it has not panned out for one reason or another....Until now! It was a road trip worth waiting for! Bulgaria is a Balkan beauty, filled with stunning topography! Its diverse landscapes mean you can chase waterfalls, explore caves, clamber up rock formations, gaze at pink lakes, float in salt flats and catch rays at the beach. From the capital to the Black Sea, this country's natural beauty shines. But, for every natural gem in Bulgaria, there is at least one crumbling, unoccupied building. In fact, almost half of the country's dwellings are abandoned and dilapidated. We passed through countless ghost villages where empty houses, decaying against their mountainous background, had been left for nature to reclaim. Bulgaria’s forgotten structures are remnants of their Soviet past and evoke a post-apocalyptic feel similar to Chernobyl . The road trip kicked off in Sofia, the nation's capital. Two friends and I arrived late in the evening, rented our car and drove straight to our hotel, the Sofia Balkan Palace , which is part of the President's Palace complex. We had booked a Deluxe King Suite for the three of us, which was immense and came with a bottle of champagne. Although the hotel and suite both appeared opulent and luxurious, everything was just a little off - it all smelled of cigarette smoke, the bar wasn’t open until 1am despite the signage, we were awoken by power tools at 8am in room next door and there wasn't any bedding provided for our pull-out couch. Sofia was a nice city to meander around for a few hours before hitting the road. It was a fairly modern, youthful city with a mix of architectural styles, from Soviet-era buildings to contemporary structures. It had wide, pedestrian-friendly streets, charming boutiques and a growing food scene.  It had numerous parks and green spaces. Within these parks, we saw a lot of above-ground extractor pipes that reminded me of the warp pipes in Super Mario Bros. We decided it would be wise to fuel up before we set off on the first leg of our road trip, so we enjoyed a hearty brunch at Izzy’s Cafe , located in a car park surrounded by cool graffiti. Three hours later, we arrived at Belogradchik, in the foothills of the Balkan Mountains, where we got to see the famous rock formations and the 2,000-year-old fortress nestled within them. The fortress is open 9am-9pm. We paid 8 BGN each for entrance and parking. The Belogradchik Rocks are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We hiked around and marveled at them for about an hour, pointing out the formations that resembled faces, animals and objects. For dinner that evening, we found a nice Serbian place with a rooftop, overlooking the Rocks, called Pri Ivan . We opened and closed the restaurant before hitting the hay at the very dated Hotel Skalite . The next morning, we were on the road by 9am, driving east, for 3.5 hours. Our first stop was Devetàshka cave, home to nearly 30,000 bats. It cost 3 leva each to enter. We were the only people there. I suggest bringing an extra layer as it's cool inside the cave. 20 minutes later we arrived at the majestic Krushuna Waterfalls. We paid a 5 leva entrance fee each and followed the 800m red route. The leisurely path took us only about 30 minutes to complete. It winds you up alongside the cascading, tiered falls, surrounded by lush vegetation. Since we were already there, we decided to take the blue route as well, which I do not recommend. You won't be missing anything, apart from an uphill 1.9 km hike, by skipping it. Next, we drove towards our hotel for the night, stopping first to see the roadside Hotnitsa Waterfall. The murky brown water did not look anything like the picturesque blue-green pool shown online . Feeling deceived, we were only there for about five minutes. 25 minutes later we arrived at the charming city of Veliko Tarnovo. We parked and checked into the most incredible boutique hotel - Bey House Royal Hotel . It had a unique blend of historical charm, luxurious furnishings and exceptional service. Each of its four rooms were kitted out with antique artifacts, plush towels, Malin+Goetz toiletries, Smeg kettles, Dyson hair dryers and iPad lighting/temperature controls. Every detail had been considered, and all amenities were top-notch. Included in the cost of the room was breakfast, dinner and 24/7 access to the Turkish bath facilities. Dinner was served on the terrace and was accompanied by live music. The meal was delicious, and the wine/drinks were superb. After a great night's sleep, on 300 thread count linens, we then drove two and a half hours to see Atanasovsko Lake. Note that Google takes you to the wrong part of the lake. When we arrived, the locals redirected us, but we still couldn't really figure out how to view this pink lake, so we wandered around a bit, saw the salt flats and then got back on the road. 40 minutes later, we arrived at the Castle of Ravadinovo. We paid 30 BGN each to view this unusual complex. Construction began on this modern castle in 1996, and it took two decades to complete. It is unique, extravagant, mystical and exotic. The castle was only about 10 minutes from our hotel for the final two nights. We stayed in Sozopol, the ancient gem of the Black Sea, at Olive Villas Beach Hotel , which had just opened for 'the season' the day before we arrived, so they were still working out some kinks. We spent our final days sunning ourselves. We enjoyed El Tubo Playa's beach club the most. The service and music were great, and it was surprisingly inexpensive. One of the evenings in Sozopol we checked out the historic Old Town, which had an artistic vibe and countless cats. We had dinner at the waterside seafood restaurant known as Panorama St Ivan, which had also just opened for the season the day before. Our final stop on the road trip was Burgas Airport. We were treated to a lovely view of Atanasovsko Lake upon take-off. It turns out it really is pink! Sometimes, the best journeys are the ones that don’t happen on schedule. Postponing this road trip gave me the chance to appreciate it even more when it finally happened. I'm glad I refused to give up on this road trip. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Car Hire : To hire a car in Bulgaria, you'll need a valid driver's license. If the license is from a non-EU country, you'll also need an International Driving Permit (IDP). It's a foolish scheme to extort more money. Sixt rental car charged us €36 per driver because we didn't have IDPs. You can get one in advance for £5.50 in the UK or for $20 at AAA in the US. Roads : We had no issues driving in Bulgaria. We never had any traffic, and the highways were in good condition. We did experience lots of potholes on the smaller roads though. Use Google for navigation as it warns you about speed cameras and road police. Smoking : Tobacco use remains high in Bulgaria. Many of the hotels we stayed in stunk. Fuel : All the gas stations we came across operated on a full-service model, meaning they pumped the petrol for us. Roses : Bulgaria is renowned as 'the Land of Roses'. It is famous for its extensive rose cultivation and is the leading global producer of rose oil . The harvest period is May/June. Currency : When Bulgaria joined the European Union on 1st January 2007, it committed to replacing its currency with the euro. The aim is to switch its lev currency to the euro by 1st January 2026.

Firstly, let me set the record straight…I did not extend my Brazil trip in order to undergo plastic surgery, but I am pleased that so many of you thought so! In actuality, around 4am, on 6th May 2017, with only 13 hours remaining in my 16-day Peru / Brazil trip, one block from my hotel, my taxi driver advanced a red light. We were struck by a city bus, which spun us around into a metal gate...So, I'm told. I don't recall anything immediately before, during or just after the accident. I came to in the hospital as my chin was being stitched up. Asking where I was seemed like a dumb question as I stared up at what were clearly flickering hospital lights, so I opted for ‘What happened?’ The doctor replied, ‘You don’t remember? Are you on drugs?’ No, but it would be greatly appreciated if you could give me some!! In the hours following the accident I was in a semiconscious state and didn’t really have a sense of timing nor what exactly was going on around me. I did realize quite quickly that my purse/mobile did not make it with me on the ambulance journey to the hospital. Luckily, my passport was at the hotel, not on my person, but since I had no other identification, the hospital admitted me under the name Shirley Brchr. The loss of my possessions also meant that I had no way of getting in touch with anyone and no access to any money. Initial cat scans and x-rays revealed a broken pelvis (in at least five places), which would require surgery, and a fractured right elbow. I also nearly bit through my tongue, chipped a tooth, had quite a bit of bruising and required about nine facial sutures. I was whisked away to have my right arm set in a cast and then moved to a bed in a shared room, with seven other patients (and their families). I was pretty out of it, but I do recall hearing a lot of moaning and groaning. In fairness, most of it was probably coming from me. My friend, who was with me in the taxi, Victoria, sustained some painful injuries, but was lucky enough to be released from the hospital a few hours after the accident. Her mobile had also been stolen, but she had her laptop at the hotel, which allowed her to get the game of telephone going. By the time I got a hold of a doctor's phone and could ring my parents, they had already been informed. Thank goodness too, because with my tongue injury, I sounded a lot like I had sustained brain damage. It was a relief to make contact, hear familiar voices and to assure everyone that I was going to be okay. The doctors asked me a lot of questions like ‘Do you want to have surgery here or at a private hospital?’ and ‘Do you have insurance?’ My alter ego, Shirley Brchr, was not cognoscente enough to make a well thought out decision regarding the surgery, but did have the good sense to remember my travel insurance plan, which included emergency medical coverage. THANK GOODNESS! And luckily, I had emailed my dad an electronic copy of the policy some months earlier. I didn’t know it at the time, but my dad went into command center mode and was busying himself conversing with the Brazilian doctors via What’s App, obtaining second opinions from US surgeons, managing insurance claims, alerting my colleagues and cancelling my credit cards (which had all been maxed out). Meanwhile, my sister fielded endless queries from friends and family as the news spread. It’s worth mentioning that she was eight months pregnant and a superstar for handling all of that! Victoria, bless her, really wanted to come back to the hospital that evening to see me but was in so much pain that she sent Brigitte, from our hotel, on her behalf. Brigitte had a hard time locating me in the hospital due to my incorrect name, but ultimately did find me. I had never met Brigitte before, but she was truly a guardian angel. She was caring and selfless, despite not knowing me. Sadly for her, when she arrived, all I wanted assistance with was getting out of my strapless bra, which, let’s be honest, is uncomfortable at the best of times. Brigitte came to visit me nearly every day that I was in the hospital. She got my name corrected, translated from Portuguese to English, helped me fill out paperwork and snuck in edible food. It takes a special woman to show this level of kindness to a stranger and I am forever indebted to her. On the related note regarding guardian angels, there are two other woman who deserve this designation as well. My sister went to grad school with a guy who married a Brazilian. His wife was kind enough to reach out to two of her friends, Ana and Isabel, who lived in Rio. They came to visit me on numerous occasions, also provided translation services, fed me, picked glass out of my hair, entertained me and even paid for my private ambulance. This experience and these ladies taught me that compassion can be found in the most unexpected of places. But I digress. I spent the first night and the whole of the next day in that god awful public trauma hospital. I don’t really remember being attended to very much by the staff, but my roommates were quite interested in me. There was a small television in the room and apparently my accident was reported on the news. This was not the sort of 15 minutes of fame anyone ever hopes for, but I guess I’ll take what I can get. Finally, around 10pm the day after the accident, after Isabel paid for a private ambulance (don’t worry, she was reimbursed), I was transferred to the next hospital. As I was leaving the public hospital, one of the doctors informed me that the driver of the taxi had been badly injured but was being kept alive. Upon arrival at Clínica São Vicente, I was immediately met by my surgeon, Vincenzo Giordano. Blood and x-rays were taken. A chest x-ray unveiled a broken right clavicle, which made sense, because it did feel like I had a knife stuck in my shoulder. Both fractures on my arms were set as they were and did not require surgery, so the surgeon thought it would be best to cut the cast off on my right arm and just put me in a sling. For those of you keeping track, that’s a shattered pelvis, a broken right elbow and a fractured left shoulder. I was running out of working limbs! Of course, all was fixable by surgery, rest and time, and helped by generous quantities of painkillers. I was awoken around 4am the next morning, by the anesthesiologist, for some questions and explanations. I had to confirm medications I was taking, allergies I had and the like. I was then warned that a numbing agent would be utilized and that when I awoke, post-surgery, I would not be able to feel my legs. I was so grateful that he told me that in advance, because had he not, I might have had a meltdown! I was brought into surgery in the wee hours of the morning. I’m told the whole thing, from anesthesia to final x-rays took one hour. The actual insertion of the screws took about 20 minutes and the two incisions are minuscule. Modern medicine is absolutely incredible! Below is an image of my new pelvic accessories. Brazilian titanium, all the rage! I thought I appreciated my body in the past, but sitting there, after my surgery, feeling groggy and itchy, I realized that there was a lot that I had taken for granted. Until you sustain serious injuries and lose abilities, you have no idea how precariously and perfectly your body actually works. I had never had any real injuries previously – no broken bones/long-term hospital stays - so I had no idea what to expect nor what the recovery timeline would be like, but I remember thinking ‘I can do this, I can get through this…because I have to.’ I was very well cared for in the private hospital. The nurses were great, despite the language barrier. However, not being able to use a toilet on your own, wash yourself nor brush your own teeth was awful and doesn’t do much for your dignity. I can also confirm that sponge baths are not nearly as sexy as people make them out to be. Any humility/humanity/pride that I once had went out the window with that two weeks in the hospital. Over the course of the days following the surgery, a few significant things occurred. One, my new iPhone arrived (which my company was kind of enough to ship to me, from the UK). It was a relief to be connected again and to have a tool to help pass the long days. Second, the physical therapist got me up out of bed! I was only able to take about two steps though, before I crumbled with exhaustion into the chair beside the bed. After being made as comfortable as possible, I was left to sit upright for a bit, presumably to keep me from getting bedsores. Food had been delivered, but the tray was all the way across the room and I couldn’t feed myself with my dual broken arms. I started to feel dizzy and uncomfortable from being upright for so long and not having eaten. Additionally, my diaper was in need of changing. I pressed the nurse call button for assistance but it didn’t ring. I kept pressing it, but nothing happen. I panicked. My heart started racing, my vision went spotty, there was ringing in my ears, I began to sweat, my breathing became faulty and my fingertips became numb. In my hysteria, I dropped my mobile so I really had no way of contacting anyone, which created further feelings of dread and anxiety. I think I knew deep-down that I would be fine and that the nurses would come into my room to check on me at some point soon, but I was feeling a sense of terror that I just couldn’t shake, no matter how irrational it was. I started hyperventilating in between screams for help. It was absolutely terrifying. I later learned that this was a panic attack. I had never had one before and I really hope I never have one again. Eventually, the nurses got me back into bed and tranquilized me. They moved my room that night, to one closer to the nurse’s station, that had a working call button. However, that new room didn’t have strong wifi and the air conditioning couldn’t be controlled by remote, so I was then moved to a third room, where I remained for the rest of my stay. My mom arrived on the 13th May. I have never been so happy to see another human in my life! I had been on my own, in the hospital, for about five days at that point. I craved a good hug/cry, to hear some English and to have someone file my nails! Thanks to my mom and the São Vicente physio team, I made great strides in getting out of bed, beginning to use my legs again and being able to use the bathroom facilities (even though assistance was still required). As the days went on, I became strong enough to utilize the outdoor sitting area down the hall from my room. It was lovely, all jungle-y and Amazon-like, with very pleasant weather and I even spotted a monkey on one occasion. The fresh air did wonders for my psyche as well. Although, I could only sit comfortably for about an hour before I would get dizzy and tired and needed to retire to my bed for more sleep and drugs! I have never been able to swallow pills. My dad always told me that one day the time would come where I would have to learn, but this was not that time. After consulting Google translate, I was able to instruct the nurses to crush all my pills for me. I know I was being pumped full of iron because I was anemic after losing a lot of blood during surgery and I also know that there were some pain killers and antibiotics involved, but aside from those, the other meds I was fed were a mystery. On 19th May, I learned that whatever they were giving me in the hospital was magic! About six hours after I had been discharged, when the medication wore off, I was in a world of hurt and the prescription pain killers given to me did next to nothing to ease the pain. The first night out of the hospital was torture. The next morning, between tears, I managed to text my surgeon and he recommended I supplement the prescription pain killers with something that I could obtain over-the-counter, which turned out to be a winning concoction! The combination of trauma, anesthesia and all the medications left me with some odd bodily side effects including a distended abdomen, atrophy, baby/broken hair, dandruff, peeling/scaly skin, loss of eyebrows and dented/discolored nails. Pretty hot, huh? By the time the 23rd of May rolled around, I was finally deemed fit to leave Brazil. My mom and I flew 9.5 hours, in Business Class, to New York City. I was fairly uncomfortable but managed to get through it (what other choice did I have?). In NY, a car service had been organized by my dad to take us to my parents’ house in Connecticut. That journey took a few hours. I was absolutely knackered by the time I arrived at my family home, but it was so great to see my dad and be in comfortable/familiar surroundings. Being back at my folks’ home was exactly what I needed. I had lots of visitors and my parents provided full time assistance with everything from meals and laundry to help washing my hair and getting dressed to rides to doctor appointments/physical therapy. I started to get a little stronger with my crutches and, with a spotter, could even go up/down a few stairs. I thought I was making great progress until 30th May when I suffered a bit of a setback. I finally got an appointment to see the Orthopedic Surgeon in Connecticut. He did an examination, which included x-rays. He was concerned that the screw on my left side of my pelvis had shifted slightly. Any further movement/breakage of the screw could result in another, more invasive surgery so he wanted me non-weight bearing for three more weeks. I was able to do some physio, but it was to be minimal and only to focus on my core and range of motion of my arms. I was also prescribed aqua therapy…Or as I called it water walking. Two days later, I had received even more somber news. My grandmother had passed away at the ripe age of 102 years. Although she had lived a long life and died peacefully, it was heart-breaking to learn that she was not actually immortal. After the funeral, I decided a perspective adjustment was needed on my end. Although the bed-rest was disappointing, three weeks was a short amount of time in the overall timeline of life and much better than having to undergo another surgery. Needing something to occupy my time, I went online and ordered a new Apple TV and a gift card for a year of Netflix. Although secretly for me, these items would officially serve as a combined birthday/Father’s Day gift for my dad. Although the holidays weren't for about 3.5 more weeks, I presented dad with the presents early and then forced him to set it all up immediately, which actually ended up costing him money in the end because he had to upgrade the router and buy some sort of adapter/connector. It was pretty much the worst gift of all time, but an absolute necessity for me. I must have watched hundreds of hours of Netflix. In fact, I’m pretty sure I came to the end of Netflix. And there is a now permanent Sherry-shaped indent on my parents' couch. On the 15th June, the family finally had a reason to celebrate. My niece Natalie Belle was born. She was named after my maternal grandmother (first name) and one of guardian angels (middle name) which was very special to me. Even more good news followed on 19th June, after a second appointment with my Orthopedic Surgeon. I was upgraded from 0% weight bearing on my left leg to 50%, which meant I could ditch the wheelchair and get back to walking with the assistance of crutches. Over the course of the next six weeks or so, I started to experience many small milestones. I could get in and out of bed on my own, wash my own hair, get myself dressed, cross my legs, roll over and go up/downstairs. The rented hospital bed was sent back and the wheelchair retired. I was also doing a good job of weaning myself off the pain killers (mostly because I was ready to start drinking again). I still had pain, walked really slow and was uncomfortable sitting or standing for too long, but I was making real progress with the help of a positive attitude and my amazing physical therapist. About 12 weeks after the accident, on 31st July, I saw the doctor for the third and final time. The not-so-great news was that my right elbow had not yet healed, but the good news was that my left shoulder and my pelvis were looking good and I was cleared to get off crutches!! I promptly threw the walking sticks in trash and started doing about six hours of physio a week. I was sick of being useless and was determined to get back to being a normal human who could do normal human things. At this point I was off the pain killers entirely and just taking Ibuprofen a few times per day. I felt like I was about 198 years old when I would get out of bed or when it rained. My lower back ached, my neck was stiff and I still would get uncomfortable sitting for longer than a few consecutive hours, but I was happy to be alive, making progress and gaining some independence. By this point, it had now been over three months since I left London and all I had with me was the carry-on bag that I had packed for my Peru/Brazil trip. I was excited at the prospect of getting back to London and having a whole wardrobe of clothes that I hadn't seen in ages. As September rolled around, I was finally strong enough, mentally and physically, to return to London. I had a lot of admin to do in order to re-acclimate to life in London…Four months of mail to go through, doctor’s appointments to set up and attend, hours of physical therapy, osteopath appointments, x-rays, getting myself back in shape, catching up with friends and getting back to work. Shortly after I got back to London, I received an email from the Rio police indicating that the taxi driver was still in hospital. That email really gave me a new frame of mind. As bad as I thought my experience was, his was still ongoing and seemed much worse. I realized how easy it is to get caught up in your own problems and focus on what is lacking rather than counting your blessings. As I wrap this up, I'll leave you with the following two of my final thoughts on this matter... 1) The win for the best £48.99 I spent in 2016 goes to my 2017 travel insurance policy! Please let this be a cautionary tale to all of you out there who ‘risk it’ when you go on holiday. These sorts of things are unpredictable and can happen to anyone, anywhere. In my case, $45k had to be prepaid before the I could even be admitted into the private hospital, ahead of my surgery. And lord knows how much the total bill came to after two weeks there. Do yourself, and your family, a favor and get a travel insurance plan that covers you medically, in the event of an emergency. SafetyWing offers Nomad Insurance plans designed for every kind of adventure, big or small. 2) I want to take this opportunity to thank all my friends and family for their thoughts, messages, laughs, kind words, gifts, visits and help along the way. I’d especially like to thank my family for doing literally everything and my work for allowing me to get well without having to endure the added pressure of not being able to pay my bills. I am forever grateful to all the wonderful people in my life! #accident #automobileaccident #hospital #brazil #brasil #riodejaneiro #travelinsurance #usa

Slovenia is all about the l o ve - it's even in the country's name. Lovers Day is celebrated on 12th March each year and the capital, Ljubljana, means ‘beloved’. This association with love is fitting for a nation located in the heart of Europe that offers such a romantic and welcoming atmosphere. Slovenia's snow-capped mountains, cascading waterfalls, turquoise rivers, glacier-fed lakes, abundant vineyards, charming towns, hospitable population and reasonable prices will have you head over heels in no time. Continue reading for my top picks for a long weekend in Slovenia. ACCOMODATION: If you're looking for a blend of value and luxury, look no further than AS Boutique hotel. It's a Mr & Mrs Smith boutique property, centrally located in the traffic-free zone of Ljubljana. The attention to small details and personalized service of the staff makes all the difference. ACTIVITIES: Ljubljana Walking Tour I like to start a city break off with a walking tour, to get the lay of the land and learn a bit about the place. Ljubljana was no different, so I booked this 2.5 hour tour . Although the guide was knowledgeable and entertaining, the tour was far too long for such a compact city. Had I known that free, shorter tours were offered, I would have chosen that option instead. Wine Tasting Slovenia has what's known as a "wet" drinking culture, where alcohol consumption is normalized and integrated into daily life. This makes sense because Slovenian alcohol is top-notch - from craft beers and awarding-winning gin to their traditional blueberry schnapps. They are most passionate about their wine though , so it felt a rude not to support Slovenia’s viticulture. Our first stop on our Vipava Valley tour , by the Italian border, was Lavrencic Estate . All five wines we tasted (1x sparkling, 2x white, 1x orange and 1x red) were delicious. The nutty cheese, Karst prosciutto (which owes its flavor to the bora wind that dries it) and locally grown olives were all also out of this world. After, we went to Burja Estate , to taste some organic, sustainable, biodynamic wines. This place has a cool, bohemian, earthy and funky vibe. As Mateja, one of the owners, introduced us to her wines, her husband, Primoz, was out foraging for wild onions. These unique wines were paired masterfully with dehydrated celery & beetroot crisps and charcoal cheese. YUM! Lake Bled & Bohinj Day Trip You cannot get the full Slovenian experience without visiting its alpine lakes. On this full day tour , we explored two of the most famous lakes within the Julian Alps. The first stop was Bled Castle where I treated myself to a slice of Blejska kremšnita ( the famous Bled cream cake) and enjoyed the first scenic views of Lake Bled (more to come later). We were supposed to visit Vintar Gorge next, but it was closed for the winter, so instead we went to Savica Waterfall in the Lake Bohinj area of Triglav National Park. It's about a 20-30 minute hike up 500+ steps to see the falls. We stopped by the tranquil shores of Lake Bohinj after the waterfall hike. This is the largest lake in Slovenia. Although it doesn't have a fairy tale island with a church in the middle, like Bled, it is surrounded by beautiful mountains. And the misty weather made for mysterious and mystical photos. Then we headed back to Lake Bled, where we took a pletna (hand-made traditional wooden gondola driven by a pletnar ) to Bled Island. There isn't a whole lot on the island other than a cafe, a souvenir shop and The Church of Mary the Queen (also known as the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary or Our Lady of the Lake), but it's worth a short visit . Finally, around 3pm, we had the opportunity to have some lunch. We dined on the shores of Lake Bled, at a restaurant called Starkl , where we enjoyed some typical Slovenian Carniolan sausage and local wine. CONSUME: Modern Slovenian cuisine has developed recently and is quickly gaining recognition. Slovenia was declared the European Region of Gastronomy 2021 , and as of 2024, Michelin had recognized 63 Slovenian restaurants (1x with 3 stars, 1x with 2 stars and 8x with 1 star) - not bad for a tiny country! Restavracija Strelec Set within the capital's most iconic landmark - Ljubljana Castle, this fine dining experience was worth every cent. I opted for the 5-course menu (€95 at the time when I went). The most memorable courses were the kohlrabi, the venison and the Jerusalem artichoke and pear desert with brown butter. Service was impeccable and the plating was exquisite. It's everything you should expect from a one Michelin star restaurant. The Ljubljana Castle Jazz Club I stumbled upon this place, by accident. When I went down into the basement of the castle, after dinner at Strelec, to use the toilet, I happened to hear live music. I asked our server about it and he told us that right next door was Rock Hall, which hosts live concerts (mostly jazz) from 8-10:30pm every Friday. Normally you have to buy tickets, but when we went, at about 9:30pm, the bouncer granted us free entry. I believe tickets cost €15 (which also includes a roundtrip funicular ride). It was a really cool space and great music! Altroke The ambience here is pleasantly rustic, with exposed stonework and a brick-vaulted ceiling which blend in well with this old district of the city. They are known for their meat and fish dishes. I had the beef short ribs (melt in the mouth) with smooth mash and some nice local red wine. Slovenia truly lives up to the "love" in its name. It is a destination that satisfies all needs, wishes and whims. Whether you’re heading for a rest and reboot, an active adventure, a cultural excursion or a solid mix of everything, Slovenia will charm you. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Language : The official and primary language is Slovenian, which is considered one of the most archaic languages in Europe. W ith only a population of only about two million and no other countries speaking Slovenian, everyone speaks English. Bees : This country has about two million people and more than 100,000 of them are beekeepers. Funicular : The timetable online indicates that the funicular operates until 7pm between January and July and until 10pm from August - December. What isn't noted, that I learned later, is that on nights when there are concerts, it operates until 11pm. It's €3.30 for adults one-way or €6 for return. If you buy a concert ticket, it includes a roundtrip funicular ride. Reservations : By now, the masses have heard about Slovenia. It's necessary to book accommodations and tables at restaurants in advance as a result.

The Alsace region is located in north-eastern France, near the borders of Germany and Switzerland. This area has been occupied by both Germany and France over the centuries. As a result, Alsace has a distinctive culture, all its own, but with distinct French and German influences. It is most famous for storks, geraniums, Riesling and sauerkraut. Colmar, the third largest Alsatian town, is like a perfectly preserved and enchanting fairy tale. Its half-timbered houses, canals and bridges, cuisine, viticulture and charming accommodations make it an outstanding place to base yourself when exploring Alsace. If you're looking for the most charming things to do in Colmar, I’ve got you covered. Here’s a guide for where to stay, things to do and where/what to consume. ACCOMODATION: Nestled in the heart of the Petite Venise (Littel Venice) neighborhood, the Hotel Le Colombier Colmar offers 33 rooms and suites. It's a great location, with a cute courtyard. The rooms were nothing to write home about but were clean and functional. ACTIVITIES: Strolling through the pedestrianized old town is one of the best things to do in Colmar. It’s so cute and charming, with each street filled with candy-colored buildings, leftover Christmas lights/decorations and teddy bears. Once of the best ways to explore and acclimate yourself is to take a walking tour . Be sure to visit the market or Marché Couvert . It's open every day, apart from Mondays. Try the pretzels and Munster cheese. It's a 30-minute train from Colmar to Strasbourg, if you fancy spending a bit of time in a bigger Alsatian city. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Strasbourg is not to be missed! Don't leave the region without exploring at least some of the Alsatian Wine Route. I did this tour , which was FANTASTIC! We visited three wineries and tasted 23 Rieslings, Gewürztraminers, Pinot Gris, Muscats and Crémant d’Alsace. The Alsace Wine Trail offers kilometer after kilometer of happiness (170km to be exact). It passes through almost 119 winegrowing villages where almost 720 wine producers look forward to welcoming you to share their passion for wine. CONSUME: It’s fair to say that my daily consumption of cheese, wine and carbohydrates on this trip was closer, medically, to a cry for help than a diet. But, if that sounds good to you, here are my recommendations… Be sure to try Colmar's local delicacies like flammenkuchen/tartes flambées (pizza-like), munster cheese, kugelhopf  (bunt cake) and other specialties in traditional restaurants called Winstubs (bistros). Have lunch at the adorable Jadis et Gourmande . I overindulged on a goat cheese salad and potatoes smothered with cheese/bacon and washed it all down with some Riesling. For dinner the first night in Colmar, I dined at À l'Échevin , in the Hôtel Le Maréchal. The restaurant is Michelin-recommended . I suggest booking, in advance, for the blue dining room, which overlooks the river and order the duck two ways. The second night, I ate at Restaurant Girardin , one of Colmar's three restaurants with Michelin stars. We enjoyed a 5-course tasting menu, in a sparse room with only about 15 other diners. If you find yourself in Strasbourg and have a cheese craving, I highly recommend L’Epicier . They offer raclette, fondue and cheese plates. There are also many wines to choose from. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Visit : The tiny town of Colmar, with a population of ~70,000, welcomes ~2.8 million people to its city between the end of November and the end of December. By about the 5th of January, following the Christmas rush, the town nearly shuts down for about a month. Many restaurants and shops are closed and there are very people on the streets. I would recommend visiting from about 2nd - 4th January for a quieter experience, relaxed atmosphere and cheaper rates, but still all lit up. Hours : Like other parts of France, opening hours in Colmar can be quite strange. Usually things are open 9am - 12pm and from 2pm - 7pm. Lunch is usually only served from 12pm - 2pm. Like in other parts of Europe, most shops are also closed on Sundays. Weather : Colmar is one of the driest cities in France. It has a sunny microclimate, with cold, dry winters and warm to hot summers. Disney : Rumor has it that Belle’s small French town in Beauty and the Beast was inspired by villages in the Alsace region. Language : The primary language spoken in Colmar is French, but there is also the German dialect of Alsatian. English is also spoken by many people in the tourist town.

2024 was a year full of irregular events that normally occur every four years, or even less frequently. It was a leap year (thanks, Julius Caesar , for the additional day of work) and the Year of the dragon (signifying power, strength, wisdom and good fortune ). This year gave us the Summer Olympics , the UEFA Euros and a record-setting amount of national elections (76 countries, representing over half of humanity). Skygazers were treated to a total solar eclipse in April. Powerful geomagnetic storms in May and October caused the Aurora Borealis to be seen all over the world, even making a scarce appearance in the southern hemisphere. Arguably though, the rarest celestial event  of 2024 was when the stars aligned, and I finally found someone who wanted to marry me. I visited 13 countries during these 12 months (five of them new to me) and hit my 10-years living in Europe milestone. Below is a recap of my journey, month-by-month... JANUARY At the flip of the calendar, I was eating my body weight in tacos, in Mexico City . When I arrived back in deary London, on the 2nd January, I was plumper and suffering from a severe holiday hangover. The cure for christmaslessness and post- vaca tion blues was another trip. Belgrade, Serbia was the destination of choice, to celebrate a second New Year's, Orthodox style. This was my 25th New Year's celebration in a new place since the turn of the century. The only way to get through the seemingly never-ending succession of cold, grey, icky, dark at 3:30pm days that made up the second half of January was to hibernate indoors and book heat-seeking escapes for the rest of the year. I took advantage of the British Airways January sale , and booked loads of flights so I had lots of treats to look forward to. February February gloom, equally as bad as January's, was nearly avoided as I set off to Cartagena, Colombia , for 15 days, to satisfy my need for sand between my toes. Cartagena was an absolute treasure of a city! It was colorful, tropical, vibrant, relaxing and delectable. March Ever heard of Las Fallas ? I hadn't either. I visited Valencia for a weekend in mid-March and unexpectedly experienced the city's largest celebration and one of the craziest festivals  in all of Spain. N oise levels were pushed to deafening decibels, sophisticated and satirical structures were erected in the city streets and the city's population tripled, creating an impressive five-day nonstop fiesta! Easter came early this year and was, sadly, spent at a funeral in Exeter. Despite the circumstances, I made the best of exploring an area of England that was new to me, and I learned that J.K. Rowling attended the University of Exeter in the mid-80's. Although none of the Harry Potter movies were filmed in Exeter, many nearby locations inspired the series. One example was the medieval door at 10 Cathedral Close (pictured below) was the inspiration for the Room of Requirement in the Wizarding World. April I braved the volatile weather conditions in São Miguel, Azores, Portugal for a six-day road trip. The Azores were beautiful, wild and wonderous. It was a great place to explore rugged landscapes whilst enjoying the warm hospitality of the locals. Liverpool was a lovely weekend city break from London! Scouseland was full of friendly people and had a wonderful, long-standing football tradition, a thriving nightlife and a ton of musical history. May I visited Casablanca, Morocco with the intention of parking my body poolside, on the rooftop of my hotel, for three glorious days. Unfortunately, the hotel's rooftop was closed to guests for a private event. Pool failure aside, Casablanca was a nice place to spend a few days, if you can cope with aggressive locals. Mid-week, I took a day off work to attend one of the premiere British summer social season events - the Chelsea Flower Show . Although it was a wet, muddy and cold day, I enjoyed the company of my mother-in-law-to-be and the beautiful gardens on display both at the show and on the streets of Chelsea . June Two dear friends pampered and spoiled me with a mini bachelorette/hen party at Soho Farmhouse . The rustic-chic countryside retreat was a rural, yet lush, escape from London. I was grateful for the wonderful company, food, drinks, wellness and outdoor activities. July A sports extravaganza was in full swing in Europe in July with the UEFA Euro 2024 in Germany, Paris Olympic Games, British Grand Prix, Wimbledon and the Tour de France all going on. On July 4th, the United States celebrated its independence from Great Britain with fireworks and BBQs. This year though, the 4th of July wasn't significant to only Americans. The UK celebrated its own version of 'Independence Day' when the opposition Labour Party ( led by Keir Starmer ) defeated the governing Conservative Party ( led by Rishi Sunak) in a landslide, during the UK general election. In the US, the race to presidency got bonkers as Donald Trump survived an assassination attempt and Joe Biden abandoned his bid for re-election in November's election. During all this political volatility , I took a four-day mini break to Europe's oldest and deepest lake. Lake Ohrid , straddled between North Macedonia and Albania, was absolutely beautiful, incredibly peaceful, insanely affordable & relatively undiscovered (especially compared to its Greek neighbor). It was a rare holiday where my experience far outweighed my expectations. The CrowdStrike ‘digital pandemic’ may have caused global cascading and widespread chaos, but the travel disruptions did not thwart my friends and family from flying over to London. It took a while, but I finally found my perfect partner with whom to experience all of life’s adventures and nobody was going to miss the celebration! August The first of our mini-moons was spent in Bordeaux, France , enjoying a mix of sport, wine and fine dining. We saw France beat Argentina in the Olympic men's football (soccer) quarterfinals, went wine tasting in Médoc and ate all the snails. Mini-moon part deux was spent in the Cotswolds, at The Fish , with some friends. We had a lot of laughs, communed with nature and enjoyed some needed rest and relaxation. Photo by Condé Nast Traveller 28th August marked a very special occasion for me - It was the tenth anniversary of when I first relocated from San Francisco to London. Though all these years have passed, I still don't have my UK passport (eye roll). September I went Seoul-searching in South Korea , with my folks, for the first half of the month. What an interesting, zany, delicious and fabulous country! Three days after returning from Korea, I flew to Nice, France to watch one of my best friends compete in the VinFast IRONMAN World Championship . This was a 'by qualification only' event, where the best female professional triathletes descended on the Côte d'Azur to conquer a 140.6-mile race (consisting of a 2.4-mile ocean swim, a 112-mile mountainous cycle in the Alps and a 26.22-mile coastal run). What an absolutely insane achievement to have witnessed! October My husband and I spent an autumn weekend in Zürich , one of Europe’s most expensive cities. Known for its walkable streets, fairy-tale architecture, high-end boutiques and proximity to nature, it was a great destination for a short European break. I had a harrowing journey to Connecticut, but it was all worth it to surprise my dad, following his open-heart surgery. It was a good excuse to spend a little extra time with friends and family, and to enjoy the beautiful foliage season. Then, it was back to France, for the third time in as many months. This time, I visited Aix-en-Provence to indulge in the 'Ros é All Day' way of life. November A convicted felon battling a cognitively impaired commander-in-chief, a last minute change in Democratic candidate, two attempted assassination plots and unsubstantiated rumors of immigrants eating pets were just a few of the unusual moments of the historic and frenzied 2024 US Presidential race, which culminated in early November, with Donald Trump retaking the White House as the 47th President. Three and a half weeks after the election, I braved a trip to Trump Land for the first half of my annual Thanksgiving vacation. I visited New York City first and then made my way to Connecticut for lots of family fun and turkey. December The first week of December was spent relaxing and itching in Antigua ! It was a beautiful island, and I had a great time, but I could have done without all the mosquitos and sand flies feasting on me. The next three weeks of December were spent at home because I was passportless. Even though my passport wasn't expiring for another 15 months, I had run out of empty pages. And, with all my impending immigration stuff finally happening in 2025, I didn't want to risk having to change passports in the middle of the process. I did go to Jersey for two nights over NYE though, for some self-care and to keep my NYE streak alive. Next year I've already got some far flung and interesting travels lined up, but there will be fewer overall trips as I prepare for the end of my immigration status and finally work towards my British citizenship. See ya on the flip side! STATS FROM 2024 TRAVELS: Trips: 21   Flights: 39 Air Miles Flown: 63 ,592  ( 2.6 x around the world)   Airlines Flown: 13 Airports Visited: 26 Flight Time: 154 hours   Hours Lost from Delays: 24 (plus several cancellations) Total Countries Visited: 13 New Countries Visited (blue bubbles below): 6   Continents Visited: 5  (North America, South America, Asia, Africa & Europe) Nights Spent in a Hired Accommodation: 65   #yearinreview #yearintravel #2024 #mexicocity #mexico #northamerica #belgrade #serbia #europe #cartagena #colombia #southamerica #valencia #spain #lasfallas #azores #saomiguel #portugal #zurich #switzerland #rhinefalls #exeter #unitedkingdom #harrypotter #liverpool #casablanca #morocco #africa #chelseaflowershow #sohofarmhouse #lakeohrid #northmacedonia #wedding #nuptials #olympics #bordeaux #france #cotswolds #seoul #southkorea #jejuisland #asia #provence #aixenprovence #newyorkcity #newyork #connecticut #thanksgiving #antigua #englishharbour #jersey

Just so we're clear, I'm referring to the Channel Island, not New Jersey in the USA. The Bailiwick of Jersey is one of five main islands in the English Channel, which is geographically, closer to France than it is to England. Without a passport (mine was being renewed), but still with a desire to keep my New Year’s Eve streak alive, I selected a destination that I had never been to, that was technically within the UK and that was known for its Jersey Royal oysters. I thought 'why not give it a shuck?!'. I only went for two nights, and I only visited the port town of St Helier (the seaside capital). St Helier was named after a Belgian hermit who was beheaded by Viking raiders in 555 AD. Legend holds that he picked up his own head and walked to the shore. St Helier is considered the gateway to the Channel Islands, with its working port and nearby regional airport. It is the most populous town on the island of Jersey, with around 33,500 residents living in just over four square miles. The old town is a lovely blend of English and French history, with narrow pedestrianized streets. ACCOMODATION: I stayed about a 10-minute drive from the airport at a hotel called The Club Hotel & Spa . I chose this hotel because of its luxury spa, proximity to the old town and its Michelin Star & 5 AA Rosette Restaurant. DINE: Jersey is world-famous for its fresh, seasonal produce and shellfish. The island boasts great dairy produced by their local Jersey cows, Jersey Royal potatoes grown exclusively on the island (seasonally) and also offers f resh oysters, lobster and the islanders' favorite – Jersey crab. I recommend dining at the following places: Dinner the first night was consumed at Quayside Bistro & Grill , in Liberty Wharf. As Jersey's largest seafood restaurant, it caters for all but specializes in fresh fish. I had a bunch of yummy oysters, and I also really enjoyed the scallop, crab, melon and pancetta dish, with a balsamic glaze. For lunch the next day, I ate at Colmar , inspired by the grand brasseries and great boulevard cafés of Paris. They served delicious local ingredients combined with classic French cuisine. I particularly liked the Jersey Oysters poached in Beurre Blanc with dill oil and the warm beetroot and grilled goats cheese salad. The only other meal I ate out was on New Year's Eve, at Club Hotel´s restaurant, Bohemia . This restaurant is Jersey´s highest rated Michelin starred restaurant and bar. I had more oysters with red wine vinegar and shallots, and I also really liked the pan-fried Jersey scallops with apple and watercress. DO: I only really had one full day, and my intention was to relax, pamper myself and come back from the trip rejuvenated and ready to start off the new year. As such, I spent most of my time at The Club Spa . I had a massage and a facial and then indulged in the saltwater indoor swimming pool, salt cabin and herbal steam room. I did go for a little wander though and I got to see a glimpse of Elizabeth Castle, which is an island fortress that's 15 centuries old and covers 24 acres. It is only open to visitors in the summer; it's closed November - April. This Renaissance fortress is accessible by foot at low tide and castle ferry at high tide. St Helier is a prosperous financial center and a popular VAT-free shopping destination for visitors looking to buy perfume, spirits, luxury watches and other jewelry. Given the prevalence of oysters, it makes sense that Jersey is also known for pearls. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Immigration: If you are flying to/from the UK, a passport is not required, just a photo ID and you will not need to clear customs on either end. Currency: Pounds Sterling is the legal tender, but they have their own banknotes, which are classed as 'accepted tender' elsewhere in the UK. People do accept it elsewhere in the UK, but they don't have to, so don't forget to spend your last Jersey pounds before you leave.

The laid-back culture and relatively slow pace of Antigua, an eastern Caribbean country located in the West Indies, made it the perfect setting for some post-Thanksgiving R&R, a pair of birthday celebrations and the kick-off to the 2024 holiday season. With its 365 beaches, Antigua is a tropical paradise where you can do as little or as much as you like. You can spend your days sipping rum punch under thatched umbrellas and feasting on fresh seafood or, I'm told, you can get off your sun lounger and partake in the more active pursuits that Antigua has to offer. For those, like me, who want to laze around, read on for ways to enjoy Antiguan   tranquility. ACCOMODATION The tourist infrastructure in Antigua is well established and there are plenty of options to select from. I selected South Point Hotel , in English Harbour, because it was boutique-y, with only had a handful of suites, all with sea views. Its proximity to off-premises dining options was also appealing. The staff are friendly, responsive and professional. The rooms are spacious. They claim to have beach access, but they don't really and it would have been nice if they served poolside beverages, but hey ho. DO Ever dreamed of finding yourself a new beach every day of the year? Well, that’s exactly what the beautiful island nation of Antigua and Barbuda offers , famously boasting 365. At Pigeon Point Beach, a 10-minute walk from South Point Hotel, you’ll find what seems like an endless stretch of sugary, white sand and calm, turquoise waters. Right on the beach, there's a laid-back shack, called Bumpkins, where shirt and shoes are not required, but your appetite for jerk chicken and freshly blended Piña Coladas are . If you're looking for a luxury hideaway, check out one of the most sought-after spots in Antigua, at Cocobay Resort . The Sheer Rocks Couples Pool Experience offers a beautiful, private infinity pool overlooking the Caribbean Sea + tapas + drinks + mongooses. Fancy getting out on the open water? Hire Captain George and his first officer, Rasheem, to sail you around the coastline of Antigua. Book your charter through Gadaboat . Then , simply show up, eat, drink, snorkel and enjoy! My visit happened to coincide with the Antigua Charter Yacht Show , which meant that there were a ton of superyachts on showcase. It also meant that the island's party scene was in full force. CONSUME Antigua has an established (and underrated) food scene where you can find nearly any flavor. MAIA , at the South Point Hotel is a stunning and delicious place to dine, for breakfast (included if you're staying at South Point), lunch or dinner. Colibri is so good that we went twice - once for my birthday and again on our final night. This bistro offers a romantic, charming setting, genuine hospitality and a creative fusion of French and Créole cuisines. It is both chic and laid-back at the same time. It's been awarded TripAdvisor ’s  'Travelers’ Choice' award in 2022, 2023 & 2024, 'Top Choice' award by Lonely Planet and it has been named in many 'Best of Antigua' lists. Highly recommend. From the same group behind Sheer Rocks, Catherine’s Cafe is a beachfront French cafe tucked into the southern part of Pigeon Point Beach. The restaurant has a St. Tropez-esque beach club vibe with daybeds, live music and wicker furniture. Enjoy a sumptuous lunch at an elegant beachfront setting. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Getting Around : Antigua is only about 14 miles long and 11 miles wide, but it somehow takes about 45-minutes to get anywhere on the island. If you rent a car, be sure to know that they drive on the left side of the road. We opted to take a taxi everywhere, which was expensive, but convenient. Currency : One of the most important things to know is that there are two currencies in circulation: USD and Eastern Caribbean Dollars are both accepted, but EC Dollars are the official currency. Be sure to confirm which currency is being quoted/shown. Tipping : It is customary to tip 10-15%. Many restaurants automatically add a 10% service charge to your bill, so check your receipt to avoid double tipping. Biting Critters : Bug repellent + after bite is a must! Mosquitos were out in full force, and we were feasted on. There were also pesky sand flies at the beach. When To Go : Antigua is a year-round holiday destination that is busiest from mid-December to around Easter. Officially, the Caribbean hurricane season runs from June to November, with September and October the most likely time for storms Electrical : Standard voltage is 230V and they use US plugs. We experienced power outages several times. Water : Tap water is certainly safe to clean your teeth with, and ice should be fine, but I would recommend drinking bottled water, rather than tap. Fun Fact : It’s illegal to wear camouflage clothing.

Nearly three years ago I decided that I wanted to move to the UK. It took a lot of persistence and patience, but it finally happened! On August 27, 2014 I made the transition from San Francisco to London. For any of you out there who are wanting to make a similar move, below is a succinct list of things that had to happen to make my move successful, as well as some tips I learned along the way. Keep in mind that I have now only been in the UK one whole week, but I thought I’d post this list before I forget anything. Get a job! This may sounds easier than it is. I tried everything. I applied directly to companies in London, but inevitably got turned down because of the visa. The UK is also experiencing high unemployment, so it’s difficult to justify bringing foreigners in to do a job that someone in the UK could likely do. I learned that the best (and easiest) way to obtain a visa is by transferring with your current company, assuming they are global. As long as you have been with your company at least 12 months and they have a UK office, it’s not very difficult, nor expensive, for your company to sponsor you. It did take about a year of interviewing before I finally got an offer though. Negotiate! I desperately tried to negotiate a higher rate of pay, but London doesn’t seem to compensate all that well (which is strange considering the high cost of living). Since I couldn’t squeeze too much more money out of my company, I got a bit crafty and negotiated for things like relocation, transportation reimbursement, private healthcare and a flight home each year. I also had to negotiate my start date to give myself time to move. I was lucky and wasn’t in a lease in SF, but that’s another consideration to keep in mind. Relocation Funding – If you manage to negotiate some relocation money, ask for an advance on it. My company initially wanted me to keep all my receipts and then submit for reimbursement, but I insisted on receiving a wire transfer up front (which was not taxed). It was really handy having a chunk of money in advance, for all my moving costs. Visa – The UK residency permit and visa system now operates on a points-system. The Tier 1 route is now only open to Entrepreneurs, Investors, Exceptional Talent and Graduate Entrepreneurs. Tier 2 is main route for work visas which must be sponsored by a UK employer. The Tier 2 (General) permit is an option if the company can demonstrate your job cannot be filled by a local British worker. If you are transferring with your existing employer you can get a Tier 2 (ICT – intra-company transfer) visa. I am on a 5 year ICT visa. At the end of the 5 years, I have no chance of renewal. If possible, I would recommend requesting a Tier 2 General visa. My request for this was declined as it doesn’t benefit the company as much as it would benefit me. The ICT visa will not lead to settlement in the UK and makes it impossible to switch employers. If you’re planning to stay in the UK forever, the ICT visa is not the way to go. But beggers can’t be choosers, so here I am with my ICT visa. Plan Travel – First, I bought my one-way flight (eeeeeek!). Second, the moment I signed my offer letter, I bought the New York Times: 36 Hours 125 Weekends in Europe book. I have already started planning multiple European weekend adventures. Find a Flat – This is easier said than done. Who in their right mind would rent to someone who doesn’t have proof of employment, a bank account or any sort of credit? Luckily, I have a generous friend who is allowing me to crash with him until I find a suitable flat. If you don’t have friends there who can help you out, you’re going to need some sort of corporate housing or temporary accommodation (hotel or short-term housing). Once I actually find a flat, I can provide some more insight on this point (update here ). Right now I’m just focusing on exploring southwest London and finding the right area of the city for me. Send a Piece of Mail – You may be required to provide proof of residence in some instances. I would recommend sending yourself a piece of mail (from the US, to your new address). If you don’t yet know your address, you can probably use your work address in the interim. UK Bank Account – My friends in the UK recommended Barclays over all the other bank options. I went to their website and it turns out that you can actually apply for a Barclays bank account in advance . Upon arrival in the UK, you’ll just need to arrange a visit at one of the branches and bring the proper documentation (passport and proof of residence – that piece of mail you previously sent comes in handy now). In theory, setting this up in advance allows Barclays to review your application and complete their initial identification checks in advance. Sounds easy, right? It should have been, but it turns out that I was only the second person in the whole of the UK who has ever used this pre-application process. Because of that, it took about 2 hours sitting in the Barclays office and in the end I still had to call the next day before all my bank details and card were shipped to me. US Bank Account – I felt that I still needed an American bank account even though I won’t be accessing it often, mainly for having some dollars when I am back in the States or if I have to reimburse anyone in the US for anything, etc. I had Bank of America in the US. Don’t even get me started on how terrible they are. I tried to explain my situation to them, but they didn’t seem to care and weren’t willing to work with me, so after 10 years of being a BOA customer, I went ahead and closed my checking and savings accounts. There are far too many fees and in order to eliminate the fees, direct deposit and monthly transfers to a savings account are necessary. Since I won’t have any income in the US moving forward, these things are impossible. After a significant amount of research, I decided to open a Charles Schwab Brokerage account and linked a checking account to it. There are no minimum balance fees, no foreign transaction fees and all ATM fees are reimbursed. After setting up the Barclays account, I simply withdrew all my cash from Schwab and deposited it directly into my shiny new account. No wire fees, no hassles. It took a lot of patience to set up the Schwab account and it was all pretty confusing, but they have friendly customer service and, in the end, it’s a far better option than Bank of America. National Insurance (NI) Number – National Insurance is similar to Income Tax. It is designed to provide certain retirement benefits (state pension and Social Security). I did a bit of research on obtaining the NI number and it seems that it’s not that difficult to obtain, once you have your visa, but it can be tedious. I read, in several places, that it’s well worth the $50 to pay a company like Sable International to help get it set up for you. Again, you can do some of this in advance. Once you physically enter the UK, on your visa, Sable International will start your paperwork. They will send you a packet, which you’ll need to check over, sign and return to them. Then, they will submit your application on your behalf. You need a local address and phone number in order to do any of the initial set-up ahead of time. You’ll also need to submit images of your passport and your stamped visa before Sable will begin working on your application. Renter’s Insurance – Luckily for me, my US renter’s insurance was due to renew in August. I called State Farm and was able to just pay for one more month, instead of renewing the whole policy for another year. Once I find a new residence in the UK, I plan to set up a 'contents insurance' policy with Endsleigh . Identity Protection – Likewise, I cancelled my LifeLock account, since they don’t cover anyone who has an address outside of the United States. It seems that ID fraud protection comes standard with all UK credit cards, so it doesn’t appear to be something that I need to look into. Credit Cards – I paid off all my US credit cards before leaving the country. I didn’t want to have to worry about paying transaction fees or dealing with exchange rates. I do have one card that doesn’t incur any international fees, so I may have to use that until I can sort out a local UK credit card. Since I have no credit in the UK, my options were basically limited to opening up a starter account with Barclays or to sign up for an Amex card. Amex offers a Global Card Transfer Service to support their card members when moving from one country to another. They will reference your payment history and standing when going through the approval process for your new card. You’ll need your old card number and a home address/phone number in your new country. Doctor Appointments – I cancelled any/all remaining appointments for the rest of this year and early next year. I rescheduled whichever ones my current insurance would allow for. I figured it would be easier to get them all done before I leave, since I already have all my doctors in place. I also refilled all prescriptions before leaving. That way, I am not rushed to immediately find a new general practitioner in the UK. Healthcare – I was only be covered by my insurance until my final day of work in the US. However, once you enter the UK and have a visa, you should be covered by National Healthcare. My company is also providing me with private healthcare. I haven’t had to use it yet, so I can’t provide too many details, but I do know that it operates like an HMO. You’ll need to find a general practitioner and then get referrals for specialty doctors. Also, something to consider, you’ll need to invest in travel insurance for whenever you leave the UK, since other countries will not accept the UK's national healthcare. It’s nominal, but worth remembering to sign up for. Many companies offer these sorts of programs: HSBC, AMEX, 1st Contact, InsureandGo, etc. Personal Appointments – Like with doctors, you know all the people in your current city, so take advantage of that and go get waxed, spray tanned, haircuts, etc. before you depart. Plus, these services are likely to be cheaper Stateside than in the UK. I also set up an appointment with the DMV and renewed my license, one year ahead of time, so it will be valid for 4 more years while I’ll be living in the UK. Packing – I bought some boxes, bubble wrap and tape…The basics. As I started to pack, I realized that I had waaaaaay more stuff than I had anticipated. I brought about 6 garbage bags filled with stuff to Good Will. I also posted stuff for sale on Craig’s List (like my bed, glassware that likely won’t survive the move and appliances that won’t work in the UK). Next I worked out how many suitcases I could actually bring with me on the plane, for free. Because I am flying United over to London and I have Platinum status with them, I can check 3 bags (up to 70lbs each). I can also then carry-on my regular two pieces. As I packed, I kept an inventory of everything in each box/suitcase. This is not only helpful for organizational purposes, but also necessary for customs when you ship boxes overseas. Shipping – I weighed and measured each box. TIP: Be sure to add several pounds on to each box. Shipping companies LOVE to charge you overage fees if boxes are underweight. And the fees are way more than the extra couple of bucks you’ll pay initially for just adding on a few pounds. Once I had all the weight and dimension information, I was able to go online and price out my options. I looked into UPS, FedEx, DHL, USPS and several private shipping companies. USPS was, by far, the best value. They don’t have a good reputation, but I was willing to risk it to save several thousand dollars. I paid about $100/box versus the $350/box that UPS/FedEx were quoting me. Also, if you print off your own postage online at USPS.com , it’s about 15% less than at a retail location. USPS will also come collect your boxes from your place, for free, if you can be around between 2pm and 4pm on a weekday (at least in my area). What I didn’t do correctly was fill out the right customs paperwork. If you are moving from outside the UK, and have lived there for at least 12 months, you shouldn’t be subject to customs duties/import VAT taxes. All your belongings must have been in your possession for at least 6 months and must be for personal use only. Since I neglected to use proper documentation, I was charged approximately £900 in fees/taxes by the Border Force, on behalf of HMRC (Her Majesty’s Revenue & Customs). I am now fighting the fees, but who knows how that will go. I'm not very hopeful. Update Address – Luckily my parents allowed me to use their address going forward. I updated the address on all my credit cards and at all my banks to their address and also had my mail forwarded there, from San Francisco. Additionally, I changed my address in my old HR system so W2’s and such will be sent somewhere safe. My parents have been kind enough to send photos of every piece of mail they have received. I then instruct them to discard, save or post to me. Transportation – The cost of transportation in London is more than I had expected. Get yourself an Oyster Card straight away. It’s good for all transportation within London. Mobile Phones - I'm afraid I can't be of much help in this department. My company ordered my phone for me, in advance, set it up and pays the bills. You'll want to get a phone immediately, since a number is required to set up most accounts. I am on Vodafone and it seems to be just fine, if that helps. Update Your Stuff! - Once you have arrived, go ahead and update your new city on Facebook, your LinkedIn account/resume, your iTunes, your time zones on your computer, etc. It felt really good to make it all official! Know the Basics - Great Britain is the name of the island on which England, Scotland and Wales are situated. It is not a country. The UK (United Kingdom) consists of England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales. England is simply the largest and most populated portion of the United Kingdom. Don't confuse Great Britain with England. The Scots, Northern Irish and Welsh find it very offensive. Whatever you do, don't call the Scots, Northern Irish or Welsh "English." Be Prepared for the Weather! It rains more in England than you may be used to, although it is not as wet or dismal as has also been portrayed through ill-informed American media. Although it has very long, bright and remarkably pleasant days in summer, winter days are short and it can be dark for long periods of time. In the winter you will get about 5 hours of sunlight. If you know that you will miss the sun, get a room with a south facing window. #relocation #moving #us #uk #tips #usa #unitedstates #unitedkingdom

A university town, less than 30-minutes from Marseille, with a population of about 145k, Aix-en-Provence is big enough to be lively, but small enough to explore in two days. Aix is full of sun-drenched, cobbled streets, elegant architecture, refined fountains and picturesque squares. It’s known for its markets, art museums and as the birthplace of rosé. Rosé is more than just a specialty in this region; it's a way of life! Here’s how to spend the perfect weekend in Aix-en-Provence. CHECK-IN Le Pigonnet  is an excellent hotel to base your stay. The former private estate is a short walk from the city center with buildings dating back to the 18th century, all currently being renovated. The grounds and gardens are beautiful, and the staff are super helpful, professional and courteous. CONSUME Start your day off with breakfast or brunch at Kava . The little gem is fairly small, and they don't take bookings, so be prepared to wait on the weekend. But it's worth it! I had the Eggs Factor with two fried eggs, mushrooms and hashbrowns. I also tried the bacon and truffle gouda. I highly recommend all of it! For a bistro serving French and Provençal cuisine, p op by Le Ramus . The staff is uniformly charming and attentive, and the courtyard is a lovely spot to enjoy al fresco dining. I asked our hotel concierge where to get the best croissants in Aix and there was no hesitation directing me to Maison Weibel . Go and enjoy all things baked - deserts, pastries, tarts, etc. La Petite Ferme  is a chic, contemporary brasserie showcasing dishes from all over the world, but specializing in a wide choice of meat (cooked over embers, spit-roasted or in a wood-fired oven). For a unique setting, try La Table du Pigonnet . This gourmet restaurant is located within the enchanting gardens of the historic Le Pigonnet hotel, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Book ahead to guarantee a table. I have no idea why Le Singe Vert  is called The Green Monkey, but it's a very cute spot, centrally located on the Cours Mirabeau promenade. Stop by and enjoy a cocktail whilst watching the world go by. I would not recommend going for a meal, but definitely worth it for a beverage. DO A weekend visit to Aix wouldn’t be complete without exploring the city’s famous markets on a Saturday. Start with the market along the city’s main thoroughfare, Cours Mirabeau. This central avenue is taken over by dozens of stands selling Provençal textiles and clothing. At the end, go left and make your way toward Place de Verdun for vendors selling local produce, olive oils, tapenades and honeys. From there, weave through the narrow streets to the Place l’Hôtel-de-Ville, where you’ll find the flower market. Take a tour to from Aix-en-Provence to discover the vines and wines of the famed Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence  appellation . I did this Half Day Wine Tasting Tour , which took a small group of five us to Bargemone & Château Paradis , to try 12 acclaimed rosés, reds and whites. Aix-en-Provence is a sophisticated and cultural city break destination, bursting with Provençal charm. Although you can see most of Aix in a matter of days, it's also a fantastic base from which to take day trips around the region. I will definitely go back at some point to experience more of Provence.